I see you. You...the least favorite?? May third or fourth 😁. I am still trying to put some basics out there for the guys. You should be resting up for work instead of surfing youtube.
Easy terms. Its an adjustment. You can have the damper closed but still "cracked" open enough to bleed some air by into that space. It helps relieve a little air pressure in the duct and give a little airflow in the zone. As you might guess...the bigger the crack, the more air bleeds by the damper blade. Too easy. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. It's really not that complicated! I have two questions: 1) when the thermostat is not calling for air, does it receive constant 24v to keep the damper closed? Then when thermostat is calling for air, it would cut off the electricity and the spring would open the damper? I would image a spring close and power open setup would be more energy efficient. 2) After removing the motor, is there anyway to tell if the damper is in open or closed position without a benefit of a direct visual? I believe the damper in my attic is stuck in open or semi open position.
The damper should have 24v on it anytime it is closed. So without going and digging through settings or anything, I have one in the shop and when the system has satisfied the call for heat or cool and the purge has ended, all dampers open. To point #2, I have used a piece of wire or a brazing rod to poke through metal ducts to feel where the damper is positioned. Just make sure to tape and seal any holes of course.
Thank you for sharing. Can you please shoot a video about how zone boards are install , how it work , how to wire for individual thermostats when you have chance . Or is there any videos that you would recommend
We have a damper motor fail made by xci. The tech told us the "shell" has to be replaced as well since the new motor (honeywell) they will be using will not fit the original. Is there really a compatibility issue, does that make sense?
It might be more that the mounting of the damper motor would not match up and might be easier to replace the damper as well. There can be other things like how fast (in seconds) it closes to consider. XCI was the first zone system I ever learned and they are still around. I wonder if you/contractor could order the XCI damper actuator online if a local parts store doesn't carry them. If you can't get the original damper actuator and get one that fits the voltage, size, etc... personally, I would change out the whole thing so it is a matched set.
Thanks for this video John. Can I use this on a rectangular damper? I have an old trolAtemp motor and I believe Honeywell says the m847d zone motor is the replacement, which looked like the one you installed?
If Honeywell lists it as a replacement I would think that it would be pretty straight forward on replacing it. If it isn't exactly the same procedure I am sure it isn't very far off for changing one out.
More of an adjustment so you can crack the damper open a little when it closes. It will bleed some air by depending on which number you move it to. I have always left it at 0 like it comes.
Those spring return motors are crap! I've gone through my fair share. Everytime the motor got so hot the plastic gear would get soft from the heat & strip out. I went to a 3 wire non spring return, non honeywell brand.
I am not gonna say you jinxed me but at 2:45 this morning I got up and my outdoor unit was cycling on/off every 3 minutes or so but no airflow on the downstairs zone. Had airflow upstairs though 🤔 Of course I would have a stuck closed damper. I have already replaced a few for neighbors and it looks like it was my turn!
According to the manual supplied with the actuator motor...the "0" is for no air bleeding by, the 1 is 20%, 2 is 30%, and the 3 is 50%. I leave it at "0" for any/all that i have ever installed. But it depends on your exact setup. I would think that most are just left alone and on "0".
@@johnjennings-JJ You can field-convert just by swapping the black plastic grommet and plug in the damper, so that actuator installs on opposite side. Both model actuators (ZONE and VENT) turn the shaft CCW when power is applied -- the ZONE version indicates CLOSED when power is applied. The only issue with field-conversion of the damper using the same actuator will result in the indicator on actuator face showing open when closed, and vice-versa.
@@johnjennings-JJ You can find info on it HERE: customer.resideo.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/33-00000s/33-00079EFS.pdf I'm trying to figure out the easiest/fastest way to swap around those plastic parts on an installed damper - my arm is not long quite enough to reach into the vent to get at the back side of them with pliers. Pulling off lots of tape/insulation and then muscling around the vent pipe to remove inline damper just to do this seems like a real pain. Ideas?
Might be dumb question, but how do I know what position my damper is in when I replace with new one? Do I have to take duct work apart or just go by the actuator rod?
You don't have to take the ductwork apart necessarily. Maybe the easiest way is to turn you fan or a/c on and when you hear the air flowing through the duct just turn the damper blade rod by hand and you will hear the airflow stop. Mark it with a sharpie so you know for sure where it is positioned and then turn it off unit to replace the motor. That way you aren't fighting the air flowing.
If you look at approx the 6:30 mark in the video you will see the "stops" on either side of the damper blade. If you turn the shaft counter clockwise it should close all the way.
I realized that after posting this, when I was helping someone while they were changing an actuator out. Could have kicked myself for not thinking of it sooner! Thanks for the comments. It's all the little stuff that gets me...
Try this for the installation manual: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=documents.alpinehomeair.com/product/Honeywell%2520Truezone%2520Damper%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjT6eay25r2AhVlkeAKHSl3ASkQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2RQHko4kZ-4CSyzaT7YKEe
Thank you! Fixed 12 year old actuator issue by simply removing that cap that seems to be prevent motor to spin. A/C zone downstairs back in business!
Thanks John for the video don,t know a lot about damper systems but this helped a lot
Thanks. It wasn't much because they aren't too terribly difficult!
thank you for sharing this job . for me its learning and saving $$
That's what I hope it does so your welcome. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks John. That was very helpful.
Thank you so much that was very helpful
Thanks that was very very helpful
Very good information. Thanks for sharing 👍.
Thanks Bigg Dogg.
Great info keep them coming...
Thanks, will do!
JOHN JENNINGS!!! HOW DO I JUST SO HAPPEN TO STUMBLE ACROSS YOUR VIDEO!?!?!? GOOD TO SEE YOU DOING WELL! 🙂 -VINCENT (YOUR LEAST FAVORITE STUDENT)🤣
I see you. You...the least favorite?? May third or fourth 😁. I am still trying to put some basics out there for the guys. You should be resting up for work instead of surfing youtube.
@@johnjennings-JJ I need some help out here. Let the guys know I pay well... just bought an extra service van and I need someone in it asap!
Will do. I am out until the fall semester but will put the word in for you. Call or stop by the office as well.
What. Is the red button on fop for?
Easy terms. Its an adjustment. You can have the damper closed but still "cracked" open enough to bleed some air by into that space. It helps relieve a little air pressure in the duct and give a little airflow in the zone. As you might guess...the bigger the crack, the more air bleeds by the damper blade. Too easy. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. It's really not that complicated! I have two questions: 1) when the thermostat is not calling for air, does it receive constant 24v to keep the damper closed? Then when thermostat is calling for air, it would cut off the electricity and the spring would open the damper? I would image a spring close and power open setup would be more energy efficient. 2) After removing the motor, is there anyway to tell if the damper is in open or closed position without a benefit of a direct visual? I believe the damper in my attic is stuck in open or semi open position.
The damper should have 24v on it anytime it is closed. So without going and digging through settings or anything, I have one in the shop and when the system has satisfied the call for heat or cool and the purge has ended, all dampers open. To point #2, I have used a piece of wire or a brazing rod to poke through metal ducts to feel where the damper is positioned. Just make sure to tape and seal any holes of course.
Thank you for sharing. Can you please shoot a video about how zone boards are install , how it work , how to wire for individual thermostats when you have chance . Or is there any videos that you would recommend
I tried one a long time ago but it probably should be redone. I would look up Honeywell zoning information. They have some good ones.
Good video- i helped
We have a damper motor fail made by xci. The tech told us the "shell" has to be replaced as well since the new motor (honeywell) they will be using will not fit the original. Is there really a compatibility issue, does that make sense?
It might be more that the mounting of the damper motor would not match up and might be easier to replace the damper as well. There can be other things like how fast (in seconds) it closes to consider. XCI was the first zone system I ever learned and they are still around. I wonder if you/contractor could order the XCI damper actuator online if a local parts store doesn't carry them.
If you can't get the original damper actuator and get one that fits the voltage, size, etc... personally, I would change out the whole thing so it is a matched set.
Thanks for this video John. Can I use this on a rectangular damper? I have an old trolAtemp motor and I believe Honeywell says the m847d zone motor is the replacement, which looked like the one you installed?
If Honeywell lists it as a replacement I would think that it would be pretty straight forward on replacing it. If it isn't exactly the same procedure I am sure it isn't very far off for changing one out.
What is the red manual lever for? Is it to set max opening or just a manual open and close lever?
More of an adjustment so you can crack the damper open a little when it closes. It will bleed some air by depending on which number you move it to. I have always left it at 0 like it comes.
Those spring return motors are crap! I've gone through my fair share. Everytime the motor got so hot the plastic gear would get soft from the heat & strip out. I went to a 3 wire non spring return, non honeywell brand.
I am not gonna say you jinxed me but at 2:45 this morning I got up and my outdoor unit was cycling on/off every 3 minutes or so but no airflow on the downstairs zone. Had airflow upstairs though 🤔 Of course I would have a stuck closed damper. I have already replaced a few for neighbors and it looks like it was my turn!
Hi, can you tell me what is the right range of air flow using that red adjuster on top?
According to the manual supplied with the actuator motor...the "0" is for no air bleeding by, the 1 is 20%, 2 is 30%, and the 3 is 50%.
I leave it at "0" for any/all that i have ever installed. But it depends on your exact setup. I would think that most are just left alone and on "0".
John, I was just about to ask the very same question! Thanks for answering it! As always keep up the good work!
Thanks.
Could that same new Honeywell actuator work both power open or power closed? Or do you have to get a different model actuator?
I think it would be a different model. This one is a spring open, power close, if I remember correctly.
@@johnjennings-JJ You can field-convert just by swapping the black plastic grommet and plug in the damper, so that actuator installs on opposite side. Both model actuators (ZONE and VENT) turn the shaft CCW when power is applied -- the ZONE version indicates CLOSED when power is applied. The only issue with field-conversion of the damper using the same actuator will result in the indicator on actuator face showing open when closed, and vice-versa.
That's good stuff. Never thought to look it that way. I will definitely remember this for later use. Thanks...
@@johnjennings-JJ You can find info on it HERE: customer.resideo.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/33-00000s/33-00079EFS.pdf
I'm trying to figure out the easiest/fastest way to swap around those plastic parts on an installed damper - my arm is not long quite enough to reach into the vent to get at the back side of them with pliers. Pulling off lots of tape/insulation and then muscling around the vent pipe to remove inline damper just to do this seems like a real pain. Ideas?
Been trying to think of a way but it isn't coming to me. Maybe just popping the duct off and reach in is the fastest?
Might be dumb question, but how do I know what position my damper is in when I replace with new one? Do I have to take duct work apart or just go by the actuator rod?
You don't have to take the ductwork apart necessarily. Maybe the easiest way is to turn you fan or a/c on and when you hear the air flowing through the duct just turn the damper blade rod by hand and you will hear the airflow stop. Mark it with a sharpie so you know for sure where it is positioned and then turn it off unit to replace the motor. That way you aren't fighting the air flowing.
If you look at approx the 6:30 mark in the video you will see the "stops" on either side of the damper blade. If you turn the shaft counter clockwise it should close all the way.
@@johnjennings-JJ Another way to confirm - remove actuator and look through stabilization grommet hole to see when blade passes by.
I realized that after posting this, when I was helping someone while they were changing an actuator out. Could have kicked myself for not thinking of it sooner! Thanks for the comments. It's all the little stuff that gets me...
Can you give me link of product?
Try this for the installation manual: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=documents.alpinehomeair.com/product/Honeywell%2520Truezone%2520Damper%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjT6eay25r2AhVlkeAKHSl3ASkQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2RQHko4kZ-4CSyzaT7YKEe