Видео

Relay preferred. Probably quieter and smaller in size.

@ what bout qwik swap x1 product. Eaiser for. Diy home owner. Idk how to wire

Always follow the sequence!

Let me try to find that one and see if I can put it up.

The only time I ever heard of such, and once my co-worker said his caught on fire, was when there were 2 speeds wired in at the same time. I would imagine this is a PSC motor with a capacitor. I would double check the wiring and make sure you are plugging in anything that is not needed. I saw a gentleman look at a PSC blower motor in a furnace and there was an empty terminal on the furnace board and one wire for the motor not connected so he thought it fell off the board. He plugged it in and once he powered the unit up...I got the fire extinguisher and put out the fire! Make sure you only plug in what you need on the PSC type. If it is another type...I would be curious to know!

Before this happened, I did change out the plug on the power cord and did change the outlet in the wall.... but anything else I plug up to the wall outlet works fines.

I figured I would redo this one since it was one of the first I ever did. Thanks for the input.

In the field we try to shoot for an average of 400 CFM per rated ton of refrigeration effect. Most homeowners could probably care less. So if you had a 2 ton unit you would need approx 800 CFM (cubic feet a minute) across you evaporator coil to deliver the correct amount of btu's in heat..blah blah blah! Long answer. 400 per ton...good. The speeds on a PSC motor (hi, med, lo) will likely not ever be exactly that number. You have to choose the best one and if you have a electric heater kit on a heat pump system you could easily calculate the CFM for the speed you have wired at the time and the ductwork you have on the unit. You could google it and if you have 10 minutes and a clamp meter could figure it out for your setup. Hope this helps.

@@johnjennings-JJ Ty very much it does help Ty

"Technical answer"...sticker is correct hookup...but I dare say it would not matter if you flip flopped them. If you are OCD enough then make them match! Probably would work fine since you had the proper wires on the winding to handle the voltage. Never tried it.

@@johnjennings-JJ so if I understand you correctly, if one wants to follow the sticker exactly the wires should hookup to opposite colors with respect to black and white on 120v and that is fully supported by the vendor. Yes?

Thanks.

We would need a little more info but it could definitely be the relay. Couple things to maybe nail down first...1) type of unit. Heat pump or furnace with an a/c...a lot of furnaces will run the blower if a fault occurs in the system. 2) if it is a heat pump then the model would tell us the type of bower motor it should have in it. Some older motors...like a PSC motor... had an external relay. Newer motors don't because they have a module built in to the motor and it could be the issue.

​@johnjennings-JJ it's an air conditioner inside my unit apartment. You mean if the relay is inside the motor I would need to replace the whole motor

@renatodacostaalmeida2715...yes. if it is what we know as a PSC motor. Then it has an external capacitor and a relay or relay on a circuit board. Some newer motors are X13 (or variable speed in some) and those motors have the electronics built into the actual motor itself. The model number if the unit inside tour apartment should help identify which kind you have

Do you have an email I can send to you by email. Not able to upload here don't know why ty

Sorry, got busy at work and time slipped by me. My email is jenningsj@hotmail.com.

The 120 v circuit has a neutral, the 24 v has a "common". Inside the transformer the two sides (primary winding and secondary winding) never touch. They are essentially doing the same thing...completing a path...but neither one bring any voltage to the table!

I tell my guys that there is only 2 things to check with power "on"...volts and amps. If the power is on then leave the wires on. For all else, check it with the power off and pull the wires off! You are right to pull all the wires off...

Would you believe "magic of video editing"?Or the fact that my body is severely allergic to electrical shock and I just don't try to grab anywhere I know will make me tingle! 🤣

But I still get bit every now and again...

Lol I’m here learning the hard way, but your videos really help put things into perspective. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into these video and taking the time to respond. Take care and stay safe!

@dioncurtiscurtis3188 it ain't much but hopefully it helps somebody! Thanks

Speaking for me I guess, I know that the total/potential voltage is both sides added together. Whether that is a L1/L2 with 240V or an L1/N with 120V. Electricians I talk to speak using "potential voltage" but honestly I don't think I know any hvac people that talk that way. We just say voltage. However, I still think we are speaking the same language.

@@johnjennings-JJ thank you!

Sorry...weather has been crazy here. Yes, I would say the 240 is likely the best option. On a transformer with multiple voltages I would choose the best voltage it listed for my power source. I would go equal to or higher than 220v. So, if you had a 208 and a 240 volt wiring configuration for the primary and an exact 220v power source I would choose 240v on the transformer because 220 is more than 208 and could blow it. But of course if you put your 220 on the 240 wiring you will come up a little short with the secondary voltage output because you didn't put the full "240 volts" on it. Hope that makes sense.

If you are looking at a relay it should have a sticker that shows you or tells you. It may even be "drawn in" to the relay itself. You would notice it is a raised part of the surface of the relay. If you can't see any information on it I would not use it. Just get another with the specs that you need.

Yes. Right 20 yeat psc 500$vs 10 year ecm 1000$ 4 times more

Purple in #2 (the normally closed switch) just makes sure that the blower comes on at the same time the heat strip gets power.

I don't have access to that particular furnace anymore but a lot of furnaces have a plate you can take off that sits right above the burners. If you can take that plate off then you can likely get to the couple screws that would hold the inshot burners down. Just make sure to put them back exactly as they were... I number mine from left to right and the number is always on top...just fyi

Thanks. I try!

Sorry, i didn't see this comment. Don't know what happened there....but it should work if you hooked it up like I did. That Normally Closed switch on the relay is kinda made just for the heat strip/blower setups.

@johnjennings-JJ Hello John thanks for the reply back. My name is also John. I was just asking I recieved this Goodmen 3ton unit, from a friend said it work okay 2019 model. He purchase one of them new Mr COOL state of the art systems for his home . So I installed the unit and could not get the blower to start the out side compressor and fan come on but no blower motor? so once I viewed a few of your videos and found the board was the problem. The reason ask is summer time is about over here in. Georgia. I will need to turn the other breaker on for the heat strip system the unit has two breakers. Just wanted to ask if the contactor I installed be okay as well for the winter time. I have not tryed the heating system yet only been run the A/C system. Thanks again for reply. Enjoyed your post

If I follow correctly, you used a contactor to turn the blower motor on instead of a relay?

@johnjennings-JJ That's right correct. The relay board was bad. At first I check the blower motor once I by pass it the blower motor was okay. It was the relay board had to be the problem because the compressor would kick on and the compressor fan would come on. So. Once I watch a few of your videos and I did not have another board but I had a few contactor. Once I hook it up everything kick on. Thanks again

It would be a little different using a contactor once the heating season started...not impossible...but you would have to do some figuring and make sure it is perfectly wired. Since we should still have some time before it is desperately needed I would just suggest buying a relay that would work. The 90-340 relay (number of manufacturers) is great and that is the relay I have personally seen used most as a "go to" general purpose relay. There are others but you just need to make sure it has a single pole double throw set of switches (SPDT) that can handle 6 or so amps...and a 24v coil. Then it hooks up just like the video essentially! Or maybe a white rogers 90-370...should do the trick.

Different application with different temps to think. Maybe a 10 to 15 degree colder evap coil...

Been there too. It pushes you to get stuff right I think...really got me to thinking like I do now because I didn't have anyone to lean on. Can be a good thing. Keep learning and reading manuals!

@@johnjennings-JJ i appreacite your time and all the videos you do ! thank you

Thanks.

What is the original problem? Unit isn't cooling? Cycles on and off? Looks like the txv change out brought your hi pressure down but I would say that we need to know the outdoor and indoor temps going into the coil and also the return and supply air temps to get a better picture of what is going on. Wet bulb temps would be great if you had them.

Been crazy busy so apologize for the late response. The fuse protects the transformer and I have put in a fuse holder in systems that didn't have a place for it on their board. I just wired it in on one leg of the transformer secondary...the one that i connect to the XFMR-R terminal.

Thanks for that comment. Appreciate it.

Thanks. I appreciate it.

Something like that...but for me it is 2 different voltages mixed together in that thought process. Coil is low voltage, switch and load are high. But if you are talking sequence of operation....yes! Tstat powers coils, switch closes, load turns on. Got it.

Sometimes efficiency is overrated when you come it to headaches, frozen coils, and the cost! After all, that is where it started before boards. And i am not paying for an extra 65 seconds of electricity each cycle either. But i get the other side...i am jot blowing that cool air in the house either.

Honestly don't but there seems to be some issues with resistors on some of the defrost boards. Maybe it is related? Providing everything is wired in correctly I find that most boards last and work as they should...until a power surge or lightning strike! (My washer recently fell victim to that). But the relays...simple and it works. My trane unit at home has a relay. I wouldn't put another board in it until i put a relay and see how long it last. But that is just me.

Something i learned when messing with my fishing lights. The power source has only so much power...in wattage. Don't go over it. I am sure that the calculations for running something off of those taps will result in burning it up. Unless it is something small like led lights or similar. But short answer is..SURE could. Just gotta do some math.

An issue for heat sequencer I have seen is they stick closed and keep the heat strips on while the thermostat is just controlling the a/c. First time I saw that it kinda messed with me, perfect pressures, superheat, subcooling, etc. But when i checked the return and supply temps they were the same...80 F! Heat sequencer stuck closed. But anything can happen. Stick with the sequence of operation and basic voltage checks and you'll find it.

@@johnjennings-JJ It was a head scratcher for sure. Luckily it's my neighbor across the street and there's still time before the cold weather sets in. I thought the contactor was stuck closed but that wasn't it but I will find the issue like you said

Simple info works!

Thanks