I know nothing about furnaces but was able to figure out my own problem last night. No click from gas valve. Found condensate clogged and would not let pressure switch close with the water backed up. These simple steps really do help figure out basic operations. Cleared and drained the clog I have heat now thank you.
Great video. Now I can fix myself and not have a $400 service call. The flame sensor rod apparently gets covered in soot and stops working in 3-5 years (imaging my surprise when my 3 year old brand new furnace wouldn't work), As an electrical engineer who designs semiconductors - it is a major design flaw by Goodman! So if the furnace start then stops - check the Flame sensor first!
Not everyone can teach but this guy seems to be very good at it. Most everything I have learned I have learned on my own. Just saying I do not know a whole lot. I have watched many videos here on youtube. Mostly how to videos, it seems the hardest thing about fixing anything is tracking down what is wrong. Seems so many things can cause the same problem. And when you are not sure what to look for you end up buying parts that you do not need, and it can get really expensive. This list of what should happen next and what to look for is a must know. Wish I had seen this video before I started screwing around with my POS furnace. At first, I thought it was the flame sensor. On this unit the flame sensor and ignitor are made together. I did not know the ignitor was so fragile. As I was cleaning the flame sensor I brushed against the ignitor, and it fell apart. And the local parts house wants $106 for a new one. Now I am thinking it may be the gas valve. Just like in this video the ignitor starts to glow and then Nothing. No flames, just shuts down. Once the new parts arrive and I get them installed I can get my voltmeter out and start doing some checking.
My 9 year old Goodman Furnace GMS81005CNBE stopped starting. After studying You Tube videos like this one which is excellent I learned the start sequence and noticed my electric motor inducer fan that exhausts carbon monoxide from the flames would not start. Board had a solid red light. When I pressed the body of the motor to one side it would start, I thought something was jamming the squirrel cage fan. Turned out the end cap of the inducer fan's electric motor is held on with two screws and one of the screws was missing and inside the cap is a hollow where the roller bearing for that end of the motor shaft resides - with one screw missing the cap was cocked which made the bearing was cocked which kept the shaft from turning. Putting in another screw so the cap was evenly tight solved it, motor and squirrel cage spun freely. Never did find the screw which must have been there recently. Ghosts. So the sequence was able to at least get to the inducer fan starting. I checked the pressure switch by blowing and sucking the tube to it and it clicked, volt ohm showed it was working. In the sequence I heard clicks from the gas valve so I guessed gas was going to the burners but never glowed and when the gas wasn't ignited it shut off. It knew it wasn't ignited because of the flame sensor told it there was no fire, I had removed and cleaned it so I thought it was working. I tried to light with a long tube nosed BBQ gas lighter and it lit. So I determined that after I got the inducer fan going the problem was the ignitor which never glowed red. New ignitor solved it, runs great. In summary as taught in this video you check the sequence and see where in the sequence there is a problem. Thank you.
Field tech in different field - my jumpers are numbered 1-6 (I keep 6 in hand with wire stickers on them) and all have a 1/2" x 3" fire resistant, fluorescent yellow/green fabric tag with an embroidered "Jumper" in bright red on them fastened in the middle of my jumpers. I use the little tool bag system in my kit, and they have their own little bag. When putting my tools up, I set the jumper bag out and count them in while in use, count them out when done, verified 6 of 6 when putting tools up. Had a forner Navy electrician share that with me, based off of the "Remove Before Flight" tags on the carrier aircraft. I bit much, I know - but I work on some really expensive systems some of which have incorporated safety systems in them also so I'm a bit paranoid. Thanks for the video.
That's pretty awesome if I may say so. We all have our ways and I try to pick up something from everyone. Something good to do or something bad not to do. I appreciate the input. Sounds like something good.
If you don’t get ignition of burners, you don’t check gas pressure first. You check voltage at the gas valve at the moment of ignition. No voltage, bad board. Voltage present? Then check for gas pressure and suspect a bad valve.
I had a similar.problem but found the propane copper line outside feeding the unit was crimped ..hence low pressure..it builds up and works for a while then won't work next time a call for heat comes in..
The whole key to accurately troubleshooting, is to remember the full sequence of operation. Don’t just replace parts . Understand the reason the furnace isn’t working and let your training and experience kick in.
100% couldn't agree more. Getting that sequence down is and has to be the most critical thing. Without it, just like you said...just changing parts. I had a young lady who works in the field here locally tell me about a job she was on and during the story she said "cause that is the way my supervisor does it". When she paused I asked her if she knew why he did "whatever" because if you don't then you are just memorizing it and not understanding it. Good point...I like it!
I like using a piece of ziptie and jam in into the doorswitch to keep it closed, quick and easy. It alsolets you put the door back on without shutting off the furnace
A lot of the Goodman ignitor are the same. They are held in with a 5/16 inch hex head screw. Just unplug the ignitor at he plug that is about 6 inches away from the ignitor and unscrew that screw with a nut driver. Should be fairly easy.
@girlface5943 very good possibility. The ignitor should definitely be glowing before the gas valve opens to turn on the gas and if the gas valve does open then the board must be thinking it already had the ignitor ready. If it was working before and now it isn't then it is very possible. But there may be another issue. Hard for me to day without being there of course. For the cost of the ignitor, it is probably the cheapest route to start with if you DIY.
Just looking up different manuals, sometimes they are in the installation manual and sometimes it is in a product specifications manual. I look up parts manuals and get things like temperature switch ratings, etc. In some cases I don't look up the make of the whole unit (like Goodman or Carrier) I will look up a specific part model number. So say for something like a gas valve in a Goodman unit, I might look up the Honeywell gas valve model # "XYZ" that is actually in it. But basically looking info up but sticking with manufacturers info.
Hello, I had to turn my main gas off and now I need to turn my furnace back on. How do I know if I need to manually light my pilot? How do I turn it back on?
I haven't seen a whole lot of pilot lights on furnaces in a while. You can look at the main gas valve and it is say ON and OFF then you don't have a pilot light! It will say OFF, Pilot, and ON. If you have a pilot then you will have to hold down the button on the gas valve while you light the pilot and let the thermocouple warm up. If you got a furnace made in this century it likely doesn't have a pilot though.
My good man is weird… if I power cycle it the furnace will run but once it needs to come back on to reheat house induce motor comes on and clicks but nothing… any advice?
After the inducer motor comes on, it should generate enough draft (through the heat exchanger) to close the pressure switch. If that switch isn't closing then you could have a few issues. Bad inducer motor wheel, bad pressure switch, clogged flue pipe, crack in your heat exchanger, etc. Tough to say from here. The 'click' is curious to me. If that click is the gas valve then that changes everything. Do you see a glow from the ignitor or hear a spark "sparking" before the click?
Looks like the same one I have in my attic. My ac suddenly isant working 😪 well, now my wife is telling me my thermostat was off so it’s probably not the unit.
Seems like no matter how much I think I can be "reasonably sure"...I still have to check it! Not saying that I am/have aleays been perfect, but I learned real quick that if you want to know for sure - you have got to check for yourself.
Should be a "boss plug" on the inlet side of the gas valve and also the outlet side of the valve. Depending on the model of valve it takes a larger hex wrench (3/16) or a smaller (3/32). I think I got those sized right! For most gas valve I have seen it tells you that it should be no more than 14" W.C. (1/2 psi) inlet to the valve from a regulator and the outlet is generally 10 to 11" W.C.
Usually comes set a little higher so it works all the time. You must check it and adjust to the manufacturer’s label on the furnace. It tells you the correct water column. Don’t guess. Too high and you waste gas and overheat the heat exchanger. Too low, and it may not ignite every cycle.
Goodman gms80 furnace. Furnace randomly turns on blower fan. Furnace thermostat (nest smart) set to system off. Still randomly turns on at times. Pulled the nest off the mount. It still will run the fan randomly. Any suggestions?
Maybe the fan is set to "circ" at the tstat so it comes on sometimes? Or maybe when it happens again, go check the furnace board for a error code flashing? If the furnace board is turning on the blower it is probably trying to get your attention so you will notice an error code.
Thanks for the message back!! I shut the system off at the switch for about an hour many weeks ago and it didn't turn back on for weeks and weeks then today randomly it ran the fan for about 15 mins then shut off. If I pull the nest right off the wall it still runs. And the nest system is set to 100% off as it's been mild here in the Midwest no reason for heat or ac. I did pull the panel off the furnace and there was no error codes. I got to it right before it randomly shut off again.
If anyone can answer this please. Ever since we got in the house, the air feeder, never had a filter. I put one and after that the problem started,the ignition turns on, the burners clicks but doesn't stays on, it keeps attempting to turn on, I removed the filter feeder. Not even 1 hour later but now still does it, the only way it starts and still on is leaving it off for 10 minutes and then starts fine. Is the filter incident a coincidence? Is an air flow problem if that exists? Or it can be the little green build up around the copper fitting? Thanks in advance
The filter kinda seems like a coincidence. An airflow issue would probably not allow the unit to even get that far in the startup sequence after an initial starting. BUT...if you never had a filter before you may indeed have some issues with the evaporator coil being dirty because if you don't use a filter the coil will act as one! Maybe try to see what error code the circuit board is flashing. That would probably be the beat place to start.
First things first, verify high voltage and low voltage to the board. I had one the other day that had an issue with a bad transformer (no 24v output) and the red light was not on because it didn't have that 24v power. Otherwise you just might have a bad board and need to replace it. But i would verify power before buying a new one.
Why not use a spring clip for the door sensor? Then there is no chance to leave it bypassed with tape or with the jumper. You will hit the clip when you put the door back on.
awesome, thanks for the great videos. learning a lot. I actually have that 80% goodman in the video, is it possible to take the burners out to clean without having to break the union and remove the entire gas manifold? I am trying to learn enough to do my own regular maintenance. My previous house was a steam boiler and i learned to maintain it well but a completely different beast. thanks!@@johnjennings-JJ
Short version...cut off the gas and remove wiring, use 2 pipe wrenches to break the union that should hopefully be in the main line going into the gas valve - once done then use same wrenches to take the gas line out of the inlet to the gas valve and repeat to take gas valve off of the manifold piping. Gas valve is now out! Make sure you look at the new valve for the flow direction arrow that tells you which way to put it in correctly. Basically it is a reverse process now but with a little pipe dope/thread sealant or gas rated thread tape on the pipe threads (not union though). Turn the gas on and check for leaks using liquid gas detector. If no leaks then let it run.
my goodman 90% ran out of propane in the spring so I left it empty all summer and a few days ago I got propane delivered and the furnace wouldn't light but everything else seemed to work and the light was blinking code one so looked that up and couldn't get a clear answer so I was thinking the gas valve might have something wrong with it but I didn't have pressure checker so few days go by and watching all kinds of videos on it and go try looking at it again and decide to pull off the gas line to the valve and turned the knob back on and nothing came out so then I knew what it was , the idiot that delivered the propane forgot to turn the valve back on on the tank, but then again he was probly in a hurry to get out of here as I have 4 attack roosters that run loose and go after anyone who inters my property and a barking dog inside the fence. so it fired right up after that and learned alot about my furnace.
I needed this...thanks for sharing. I know that 1 attack rooster is enough so 4 is definitely something to fear. I once ran a call and the customers furnace wouldn't light either...long story short...she hadn't paid her bill in over a year and they took her entire natural gas meter. I stubbed my toe on the gas company line as I was walking around the house. She said "oh yeah, I forgot about that bill!"
So what was the problem? What did you replace? This exactly what the guy charged me $129 for nothing aweek ago. $129 to tell me I needed a new furnace. How did you solve the gas pressure issue? What did you change or replace?🤔
Replaced nothing. Only had to adjust the gas pressure higher using the adjustment screw on the gas valve itself. It is under thae brass looking cap with a flat head screwdriver slot. Took off the cap and there is a plastic adjustment screw underneath. I honestly haven't seen that problem very often but I guess it could happen on a brand new valve sent from the factory. Most of the time I change a gas valve it is not a perfect pressure for the output pressure and may need a slight adjustment but it is usually close.
If it isn't blinking or the red led fashing a code then it sounds like it may not realize you want the heat on! Steady light on means it is most likely ready to turn on amd is waiting for the signal from the thermostat. This might sound crazy but make sure the thermostat is set to heat and has a set point higher than the room. Do you have an electrical test meter?
This is exactly the problem I need to fix, but unfortunately i had a view of the bottom of the furnace and not the view of what you did to fix the problem, come on. Your sequence of troubleshooting led me the problem at least.
Sorry for taking so long. The furnaces son't necessarily have a filter rack for them to slide in like an air handler. Some furnace would have a spring/wire that would hook in place to hold a filter in the blower compartment but I haven't seen that in a while. Most furnaces I have seen had a separate filter rack attached to the furnace.
@@DannyObscura Did you ever find your filter rack? I have a Goodman Furnace not this model but a taller one with 1 panel and I can't seem to find a filter ANYWHERE. 8 years in this house and all I can find is the return air handler filter.
Is that possible that these F02 and 9H are NOT error codes, instead they are just status codes? F02 for blower fan setting and 9H for single stage of gas heat? I paid for an online tech helper to make sure they are not an error codes, but the technician said he is not sure. This control board is Goodman’s newly commissioned integrated control. Just some of my thoughts, once again THANK YOU John !
I just pulled the manual off of Goodman'a website. It does indeed look luke status codes the F02 seems to say that the fan is using the 2nd tap of the fan for its speed and the 9H is dealing with the singe stage heating...you sure you aren't a heating and air professional??!!
Absolutley agree but i knew the guy that was booby trapping my unit. Still maybe good practice to check the pressure/adjustment if it is a brand new one?
I know nothing about furnaces but was able to figure out my own problem last night. No click from gas valve. Found condensate clogged and would not let pressure switch close with the water backed up. These simple steps really do help figure out basic operations. Cleared and drained the clog I have heat now thank you.
Awesome. Glad to hear you fixed it.
Condensate clogged? What is that?🤔
Beautiful video, well done. One of thee best videos for beginners/technicians out there.
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Great video. Now I can fix myself and not have a $400 service call. The flame sensor rod apparently gets covered in soot and stops working in 3-5 years (imaging my surprise when my 3 year old brand new furnace wouldn't work), As an electrical engineer who designs semiconductors - it is a major design flaw by Goodman! So if the furnace start then stops - check the Flame sensor first!
You might have to do a collaboration with them to develop a better flame sensor!
$400? Where do live? Beverly Hills?
Could be Malibu but honestly when you pay a $100 just to have someone show up it could get to be $300 to 400 easy.
Great chronological thought of sequence. It would be nice if you can show us how to adjust the outlet gas pressure valve.
Exactly… like why not show that part? Lol
My bad, i'll get it in the next one!
True 🤦🏻♂️
Not everyone can teach but this guy seems to be very good at it. Most everything I have learned I have learned on my own. Just saying I do not know a whole lot. I have watched many videos here on youtube. Mostly how to videos, it seems the hardest thing about fixing anything is tracking down what is wrong. Seems so many things can cause the same problem. And when you are not sure what to look for you end up buying parts that you do not need, and it can get really expensive. This list of what should happen next and what to look for is a must know. Wish I had seen this video before I started screwing around with my POS furnace. At first, I thought it was the flame sensor. On this unit the flame sensor and ignitor are made together. I did not know the ignitor was so fragile. As I was cleaning the flame sensor I brushed against the ignitor, and it fell apart. And the local parts house wants $106 for a new one. Now I am thinking it may be the gas valve. Just like in this video the ignitor starts to glow and then Nothing. No flames, just shuts down. Once the new parts arrive and I get them installed I can get my voltmeter out and start doing some checking.
Never heard of that brand...POS? Must be a new one! 🤣
My 9 year old Goodman Furnace GMS81005CNBE stopped starting. After studying You Tube videos like this one which is excellent I learned the start sequence and noticed my electric motor inducer fan that exhausts carbon monoxide from the flames would not start. Board had a solid red light. When I pressed the body of the motor to one side it would start, I thought something was jamming the squirrel cage fan. Turned out the end cap of the inducer fan's electric motor is held on with two screws and one of the screws was missing and inside the cap is a hollow where the roller bearing for that end of the motor shaft resides - with one screw missing the cap was cocked which made the bearing was cocked which kept the shaft from turning. Putting in another screw so the cap was evenly tight solved it, motor and squirrel cage spun freely. Never did find the screw which must have been there recently. Ghosts. So the sequence was able to at least get to the inducer fan starting. I checked the pressure switch by blowing and sucking the tube to it and it clicked, volt ohm showed it was working. In the sequence I heard clicks from the gas valve so I guessed gas was going to the burners but never glowed and when the gas wasn't ignited it shut off. It knew it wasn't ignited because of the flame sensor told it there was no fire, I had removed and cleaned it so I thought it was working. I tried to light with a long tube nosed BBQ gas lighter and it lit. So I determined that after I got the inducer fan going the problem was the ignitor which never glowed red. New ignitor solved it, runs great. In summary as taught in this video you check the sequence and see where in the sequence there is a problem. Thank you.
Always follow the sequence!
You failed to show procedure to connect hose to gas valves.
Field tech in different field - my jumpers are numbered 1-6 (I keep 6 in hand with wire stickers on them) and all have a 1/2" x 3" fire resistant, fluorescent yellow/green fabric tag with an embroidered "Jumper" in bright red on them fastened in the middle of my jumpers. I use the little tool bag system in my kit, and they have their own little bag. When putting my tools up, I set the jumper bag out and count them in while in use, count them out when done, verified 6 of 6 when putting tools up. Had a forner Navy electrician share that with me, based off of the "Remove Before Flight" tags on the carrier aircraft. I bit much, I know - but I work on some really expensive systems some of which have incorporated safety systems in them also so I'm a bit paranoid. Thanks for the video.
That's pretty awesome if I may say so. We all have our ways and I try to pick up something from everyone. Something good to do or something bad not to do. I appreciate the input. Sounds like something good.
It looks like something someone taught us in our first year. That sounds about right, sir.
Don't forget about furnaces. I am a lttle late putting these out but better late than never I guess.
If you don’t get ignition of burners, you don’t check gas pressure first. You check voltage at the gas valve at the moment of ignition. No voltage, bad board. Voltage present? Then check for gas pressure and suspect a bad valve.
Different techniques maybe but we hope to get to the same place in troubleshooting down to the root cause.
Adjust your camera. We can't see s#¡+ when you adjust/check had pressure.
Also, in your notes you show are way too brief
I had a similar.problem but found the propane copper line outside feeding the unit was crimped ..hence low pressure..it builds up and works for a while then won't work next time a call for heat comes in..
I had a terrible camera and even worse cameraman operating it! It is under new management now...
great video I love the fieldpiece Manometer.
Thanks. It is a good manometer. Especially with the pressure switch tester.
Very informative!
Thanks.
Good video for the beginner thanks for sharing Cheers
Thanks.
The whole key to accurately troubleshooting, is to remember the full sequence of operation. Don’t just replace parts . Understand the reason the furnace isn’t working and let your training and experience kick in.
100% couldn't agree more. Getting that sequence down is and has to be the most critical thing. Without it, just like you said...just changing parts. I had a young lady who works in the field here locally tell me about a job she was on and during the story she said "cause that is the way my supervisor does it". When she paused I asked her if she knew why he did "whatever" because if you don't then you are just memorizing it and not understanding it. Good point...I like it!
I like using a piece of ziptie and jam in into the doorswitch to keep it closed, quick and easy. It alsolets you put the door back on without shutting off the furnace
I think I have heard of that from someone. I had someone take a screw and "lightly thread" it in...might as well buy the Supco door switch magnet!
I need to know how to change the igniter on the first Goodman you worked on
A lot of the Goodman ignitor are the same. They are held in with a 5/16 inch hex head screw. Just unplug the ignitor at he plug that is about 6 inches away from the ignitor and unscrew that screw with a nut driver. Should be fairly easy.
@@johnjennings-JJ if the igniter doesn't even light up and the gas is running. I'm hoping that's the problem
@girlface5943 very good possibility. The ignitor should definitely be glowing before the gas valve opens to turn on the gas and if the gas valve does open then the board must be thinking it already had the ignitor ready. If it was working before and now it isn't then it is very possible. But there may be another issue. Hard for me to day without being there of course. For the cost of the ignitor, it is probably the cheapest route to start with if you DIY.
is this sequence for all furnaces? like carrier lennox etc.
It is a generic sequence for gas furnaces of most every brand. Some minor tweaks on timings between them maybe...
Great video like always thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you.
Omg new homeowner blues. This language I don’t speak!!
It isn't too bad! But definitely some learning involved.
How about heat pump wiring wit heat strips at air handler and thermostat
Sorry. Don't have that one yet. I have a couple planned for a month or so. One just a plain heat pump and one with an outdoor thermostat installed.
Just curious where you find the limits for all the checks that you do.
Just looking up different manuals, sometimes they are in the installation manual and sometimes it is in a product specifications manual. I look up parts manuals and get things like temperature switch ratings, etc. In some cases I don't look up the make of the whole unit (like Goodman or Carrier) I will look up a specific part model number. So say for something like a gas valve in a Goodman unit, I might look up the Honeywell gas valve model # "XYZ" that is actually in it. But basically looking info up but sticking with manufacturers info.
I just installed a new goodman furnace it is giving me a code of 7P1. Any suggestions on what could be my issue
Got a model.number for it?
Hello, I had to turn my main gas off and now I need to turn my furnace back on. How do I know if I need to manually light my pilot? How do I turn it back on?
I haven't seen a whole lot of pilot lights on furnaces in a while. You can look at the main gas valve and it is say ON and OFF then you don't have a pilot light! It will say OFF, Pilot, and ON. If you have a pilot then you will have to hold down the button on the gas valve while you light the pilot and let the thermocouple warm up. If you got a furnace made in this century it likely doesn't have a pilot though.
My good man is weird… if I power cycle it the furnace will run but once it needs to come back on to reheat house induce motor comes on and clicks but nothing… any advice?
After the inducer motor comes on, it should generate enough draft (through the heat exchanger) to close the pressure switch. If that switch isn't closing then you could have a few issues. Bad inducer motor wheel, bad pressure switch, clogged flue pipe, crack in your heat exchanger, etc. Tough to say from here. The 'click' is curious to me. If that click is the gas valve then that changes everything. Do you see a glow from the ignitor or hear a spark "sparking" before the click?
Looks like the same one I have in my attic. My ac suddenly isant working 😪 well, now my wife is telling me my thermostat was off so it’s probably not the unit.
Listen to your wife! At least at first...
If the valve was new, wouldn’t come somewhat set to 3.5 in of WC straight from the factory?
Seems like no matter how much I think I can be "reasonably sure"...I still have to check it! Not saying that I am/have aleays been perfect, but I learned real quick that if you want to know for sure - you have got to check for yourself.
@@johnjennings-JJ how about for LPG? what would be the inlet and outlet pressure? where to connect the hose for the manometer on the gas valve?
Should be a "boss plug" on the inlet side of the gas valve and also the outlet side of the valve. Depending on the model of valve it takes a larger hex wrench (3/16) or a smaller (3/32). I think I got those sized right! For most gas valve I have seen it tells you that it should be no more than 14" W.C. (1/2 psi) inlet to the valve from a regulator and the outlet is generally 10 to 11" W.C.
Usually comes set a little higher so it works all the time. You must check it and adjust to the manufacturer’s label on the furnace. It tells you the correct water column. Don’t guess. Too high and you waste gas and overheat the heat exchanger. Too low, and it may not ignite every cycle.
I have Trane XB80 f.a.g.heater flashing codes say bad hight limit but the 3 thermostats have continuity & it wont fire up, Help!
Goodman gms80 furnace. Furnace randomly turns on blower fan. Furnace thermostat (nest smart) set to system off. Still randomly turns on at times. Pulled the nest off the mount. It still will run the fan randomly. Any suggestions?
Maybe the fan is set to "circ" at the tstat so it comes on sometimes? Or maybe when it happens again, go check the furnace board for a error code flashing? If the furnace board is turning on the blower it is probably trying to get your attention so you will notice an error code.
Thanks for the message back!! I shut the system off at the switch for about an hour many weeks ago and it didn't turn back on for weeks and weeks then today randomly it ran the fan for about 15 mins then shut off. If I pull the nest right off the wall it still runs. And the nest system is set to 100% off as it's been mild here in the Midwest no reason for heat or ac. I did pull the panel off the furnace and there was no error codes. I got to it right before it randomly shut off again.
What was the amp draw on blower motor?
That is a X13 blower motor. I think the amp draw was something in the 1.5 to 1.75 amp range.
If anyone can answer this please. Ever since we got in the house, the air feeder, never had a filter. I put one and after that the problem started,the ignition turns on, the burners clicks but doesn't stays on, it keeps attempting to turn on, I removed the filter feeder. Not even 1 hour later but now still does it, the only way it starts and still on is leaving it off for 10 minutes and then starts fine. Is the filter incident a coincidence? Is an air flow problem if that exists? Or it can be the little green build up around the copper fitting? Thanks in advance
The filter kinda seems like a coincidence. An airflow issue would probably not allow the unit to even get that far in the startup sequence after an initial starting. BUT...if you never had a filter before you may indeed have some issues with the evaporator coil being dirty because if you don't use a filter the coil will act as one! Maybe try to see what error code the circuit board is flashing. That would probably be the beat place to start.
My red light is off completely which states control failure how do I check that ?
First things first, verify high voltage and low voltage to the board. I had one the other day that had an issue with a bad transformer (no 24v output) and the red light was not on because it didn't have that 24v power. Otherwise you just might have a bad board and need to replace it. But i would verify power before buying a new one.
Why not use a spring clip for the door sensor? Then there is no chance to leave it bypassed with tape or with the jumper. You will hit the clip when you put the door back on.
I can see that working depending in what shape/size it is...i am gonna have to look into that method.
awesome, thanks for the great videos. learning a lot. I actually have that 80% goodman in the video, is it possible to take the burners out to clean without having to break the union and remove the entire gas manifold? I am trying to learn enough to do my own regular maintenance. My previous house was a steam boiler and i learned to maintain it well but a completely different beast. thanks!@@johnjennings-JJ
How do you replace the gas valve?
Short version...cut off the gas and remove wiring, use 2 pipe wrenches to break the union that should hopefully be in the main line going into the gas valve - once done then use same wrenches to take the gas line out of the inlet to the gas valve and repeat to take gas valve off of the manifold piping. Gas valve is now out! Make sure you look at the new valve for the flow direction arrow that tells you which way to put it in correctly. Basically it is a reverse process now but with a little pipe dope/thread sealant or gas rated thread tape on the pipe threads (not union though). Turn the gas on and check for leaks using liquid gas detector. If no leaks then let it run.
my goodman 90% ran out of propane in the spring so I left it empty all summer and a few days ago I got propane delivered and the furnace wouldn't light but everything else seemed to work and the light was blinking code one so looked that up and couldn't get a clear answer so I was thinking the gas valve might have something wrong with it but I didn't have pressure checker so few days go by and watching all kinds of videos on it and go try looking at it again and decide to pull off the gas line to the valve and turned the knob back on and nothing came out so then I knew what it was , the idiot that delivered the propane forgot to turn the valve back on on the tank, but then again he was probly in a hurry to get out of here as I have 4 attack roosters that run loose and go after anyone who inters my property and a barking dog inside the fence. so it fired right up after that and learned alot about my furnace.
I needed this...thanks for sharing. I know that 1 attack rooster is enough so 4 is definitely something to fear. I once ran a call and the customers furnace wouldn't light either...long story short...she hadn't paid her bill in over a year and they took her entire natural gas meter. I stubbed my toe on the gas company line as I was walking around the house. She said "oh yeah, I forgot about that bill!"
So what was the problem? What did you replace? This exactly what the guy charged me $129 for nothing aweek ago. $129 to tell me I needed a new furnace. How did you solve the gas pressure issue? What did you change or replace?🤔
Replaced nothing. Only had to adjust the gas pressure higher using the adjustment screw on the gas valve itself. It is under thae brass looking cap with a flat head screwdriver slot. Took off the cap and there is a plastic adjustment screw underneath. I honestly haven't seen that problem very often but I guess it could happen on a brand new valve sent from the factory. Most of the time I change a gas valve it is not a perfect pressure for the output pressure and may need a slight adjustment but it is usually close.
Furnace isn't working ATM and light is steady on but nothing is ignition or turning on at all
If it isn't blinking or the red led fashing a code then it sounds like it may not realize you want the heat on! Steady light on means it is most likely ready to turn on amd is waiting for the signal from the thermostat. This might sound crazy but make sure the thermostat is set to heat and has a set point higher than the room. Do you have an electrical test meter?
This is exactly the problem I need to fix, but unfortunately i had a view of the bottom of the furnace and not the view of what you did to fix the problem, come on. Your sequence of troubleshooting led me the problem at least.
I have the exact same unit. It will light and the fan will start blowing then it just shuts off after about 2 mins.
Hey I know this is an older video but where does the filer go on this unit? Does it slide into the very bottom?
Sorry for taking so long. The furnaces son't necessarily have a filter rack for them to slide in like an air handler. Some furnace would have a spring/wire that would hook in place to hold a filter in the blower compartment but I haven't seen that in a while. Most furnaces I have seen had a separate filter rack attached to the furnace.
@@johnjennings-JJ no worries, thank you !
@@DannyObscura Did you ever find your filter rack? I have a Goodman Furnace not this model but a taller one with 1 panel and I can't seem to find a filter ANYWHERE. 8 years in this house and all I can find is the return air handler filter.
My 80%Goodman runs well, but the code F02 and 9H won’t go away, any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
Do you have a model number? There are so many choices of furnaces out there...
@@johnjennings-JJ
GM9S801005CN thank you so much for your kindness to look into my problem.
Is that possible that these F02 and 9H are NOT error codes, instead they are just status codes? F02 for blower fan setting and 9H for single stage of gas heat?
I paid for an online tech helper to make sure they are not an error codes, but the technician said he is not sure. This control board is Goodman’s newly commissioned integrated control. Just some of my thoughts, once again THANK YOU John !
I just pulled the manual off of Goodman'a website. It does indeed look luke status codes the F02 seems to say that the fan is using the 2nd tap of the fan for its speed and the 9H is dealing with the singe stage heating...you sure you aren't a heating and air professional??!!
I'll keep reading in the manual but I think you are right on the money. If I see anything that says different I'll let you know.
Normally its your gas valve not the pressure.
Absolutley agree but i knew the guy that was booby trapping my unit. Still maybe good practice to check the pressure/adjustment if it is a brand new one?
My Goodman will not light the gas , the emergency heat when the top door is closed
Is this a dual fuel system? Usually emergency heat and gas furnace don't go together.
Too much time for lighting a pilot light.
Sorry.