The Most Common Reason Why A Gas Furnace Won't Turn On
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2024
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In this video, I will run you through the 6-step startup process for a furnace and the most common issue I have found when my furnace cycles on and off. Usually, this is a failure mode where the burners will light but only stay lit for 2 or 3 seconds and then shut off. You can often fix this issue without buying any parts or paying an HVAC technician to come to troubleshoot your issue.
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Thanks, bro. 2:00AM, two days after Christmas, 40 degrees out, my wife wakes me up and tells me the furnace is not working. I found this video and fixed the problem. You kept my family warm. Thank you.
Awesome God bless
Thank you! It works!
Tenant called saying heat wouldn't stay on. Watched your video, drive to the property, crawled under the house and had the heat back operational in less than 20 minutes. You made me look like an HVAC expert.
Very good video. I'm a retired HVAC repair tech. I would add to your information by saying, not to try and bend the flame sensor, and avoid touching the rod with your fingers. Believe it or not, the oil from your fingers will effect the ability to sense the flame. John
Can you advise?
Trying to fix my daughter's furnace. Our furnace guy is too busy.
It's not high efficiency like the one in this video.
The motor in the "draft inducer" blower motor burnt out. Got a replacement from Amazon yesterday. The original blower housing has a small 3/32" steel tube port for a silicone tube that goes to the pressure sensor. The new blower doesnt have that port so I made one with a rivit nut and a hollow 1/4-20 screw but the pressure switch doesnt click.
I assumed that since the port is outside the squirel cage wheel, the pressure switch must sense positive pressure. It doesn't; it senses vacuum! When I suck on the disconnected tube to the pressure switch, the furnace comes on.
I dont know how there's a vacuum inside the blower housing but outside the squirel cage.
Maybe there's some kind of bernouli thing going on.
The blower mounts to the exhaust of the hot box. Its outlet is blowing vertically upward to the chimney at a tangent to the squirel cage at the 9 o'clock position. The vacuum port on the old blower was on top at the 12 o'clock position. I didnt think that position mattered so I installed my new port at the 3 o'clock position. The smoke from a blown-out candle is not deflected by my new port when the blower comes on.
I'm about to install a 2nd port at the 12 o'clock position today. Do you think it will work?
@@Bluuplanet Since this was 9 days ago, I assume you got it figured out. Pressure switches should be called NEGATIVE pressure switches or vacuum switches. I cannot think of a single furnace (except the Lennox Pulse) that monitors any kind of positive pressure. The placement of the port on the housing would be critical.
@@chrisdeanndavison3626
Its operational but not fixed yet. Furnace man was swamped; said if we could get it running any way, do that and he's coming when he's got time. I figured the switch was negative when I had to suck on the tube to make the furnace run.
Since it's a brand new blower, it's dependable till he fixes it so I shorted the N-pressure sw for now.
Think I got the port in the same place but it's about 5/16" OD and the original was about 1/8" OD.
Could you possibly help me my husband nobody Will help us HVAC is trying to make us pay a shit ton of money
@@Theclassyburito no I'm good I'm happy with the man I'm with he works his ass off
This video saved my family from a very cold night and kept us warm... cannot thank you enough
Awesome, happy to help!
Amazon is a Godsend to the public, that combined with RUclips has allowed us to take back our homes and autos from those out there that are only looking to scam unsuspecting customers. Videos like yours should be archived for posterity, forever available for humanity. Thank you for everything you do! 🥰
I left HVAC in my younger years because so many companies would find these little problems and then charge for something else. It's nice to see someone is putting out easy to understand videos on this topic.
You aren't kidding; I know how to do this stuff, figured it out... and told the service man what I thought ... and it was .. since I was there.. I knew what was done. His boss called as he was about to leave... I don't think they can charge me anything extra on that.... lets see and I'll let you know. I had getting abused by the "industry" that's why I like to learn through great videos like this and my probing and asking my logical questions. I knew it couldn't a senso on my problem but at least I had a dialog at a counter and basically told them that I know something about this stuff.. ;).
@@samsno3667 you also arent taking the liability, you negate the truth that the liability of an old furnace is enough for big companies to find it more advantageous to just replace them. say they leave and your heat exchanger cracks a day or a month later, now he is at risk for being sued or potentially at risk for your dead body in the middle of the night.
i dont agree with them, but i also see the side of taking all responsibility for everything after you look at it.
once i touch it, it becomes my problem.
and if im going to touch 2-5000 pieces of equipment a year we need to limit my ability to be sued.
continuing to fix old shit is the polar opposite of that.
@asbestosfibers1325 If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The old sh*t is a whole lot better than Chinese sh*t.
😅😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
@@asbestosfibers1325 a cracked heat exchanger falls under an act of God unless it comes to the customer that way at initial install. That's happened to me more than once when customers refuse to buy quality stuff. No different than buying cheap brake pads for the vehicles. They work for some time but rarely for long. Either way I'd still replace it and nobody has ever come after me for manufacturing issues. Protect your liability however you see fit as some parts of the country are naturally sue happy 😁
Came home after a 4-day trip to a cold house. Inspected the unit, found my heater doing exactly this. My rough estimate is $350 in savings. Goven todays exonomy, thank you for saving us from that bill!
I gotta say thanks for the video! You just saved me hundreds on an inspection and parts and labor costs. Literally you described exactly what was happening. The house was down in the low 50's and everyone was bundled up. 10 minutes later the house is already feeling so much better. So truly, my all of my household, THANK YOU!!!!
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I can't THANK YOU enough for posting this video! I was able to fix my furnace and avoid calling someone at 9pm on the weekend! You saved me hundreds on such a simple fix. Forever grateful!
Same here, it was 60 in our home last night and I dreaded calling my HVAC service out today. What a simple and easy fix. Used some 1000 grit sand paper and re-installed. I have heat now!!!!!
Omg! This worked! My husband fixed our heat in 5 minutes! You did a great job on this video! Super clear, step by step. Been dealing with this for months! Thank you thank you thank you!
Thanks man!! Dead cold winter here, HVAC in high demand and not sure when I could get someone to my apt.. Got it fixed in no time, thanks to your guidance!! Have a great 2023! Thanks again!
My whole family is very grateful fot this video! Saved us from cold weekend nights and saved us money, and it was a huge blessing since we are currently unemployed. Thanks again!
Here to help, glad it worked out for you guys 👍
The first year we moved into our house with gas appliances, I noticed the heat went out overnight in the middle of winter. Found a video explaining this exact issue, got the flame sensor cleaned and heat back up and running without the wife waking up. Totally saved. The following year the issue returned so I went ahead and got a new sensor and cleaned the old one off for a spare.
Evening, thanks again for your video! My family and I had to endure a night in the cold because there was unavailability to have someone come to the house and check out what the issue was. Your video not only helped me remedy the issue with our furnace to keep us warm, but it also saved us a lot of money, especially in times like these with the high cost of living! We owe you, thanks again!
Thank you so much. Woke up to the coldest day of the Winter so far and the house was in the 50s. I toyed around for an hour before finding your video after figuring out there was no flame. Your fix got me up and running again and saved me a big HVAC bill. Thank you!!
Awesome video! Your step-by-step description was spot on, and saved me a service call that I quickly had to cancel after I was able to resolve the issue by simply removing the flame detection sensor, cleaned & reinstalled it, and Pa-da the most beautiful blue flame irrupted from the burners. Thank you very much for sharing such a great troubleshooting video.
Those 2 items; flame sensor and the ignitor ... yeap ... simple, don't we hate getting abused by the industry?
Well explained. I've seen this twice in various homes I've owned through the years. As I recall, there are two different common designs for these flame sensors.
Dude seriously thank you so much!! I have been dealing with this crap furnace for 6 years. I get a DTE visit once a year and they never fix it completely. So I finally decided to RUclips it and you’re the first I clicked on. Finally the thing kicks right on 😮 I was so happy.
Dang man, first snow of the season and our furnace did exactly this. This video helped me fix it in 15 minutes. Can't thank you enough for this, and I also appreciate that you were straight to the point. Every second of your video was helpful. No fluff, no BS.
My 2019 Armstrong has the same looking flame sensor and I thought it would be smart to get one and igniter. Stopped at the nice and reputable place that installed it in my farmhouse and they only wanted about $115 each. Think I'll look on line. Great video.
Great info! I'm learning more about all the house systems from you, and I've done a lot of diy stuff over the past ~40 years. My blower motor circuit board had a solder failure on ours and luckily I found info on the repair. Saved me $$$. Then the other unit failed too, the same way. Both still going strong after 25 years and they are in great condition. Keep up with the great tips!
Great video. My gas furnace is 20 years old, and never had this problem. So now I’m wiser, I’ve cleaned my sensor and ordered a replacement. Maybe 20 more years before I have to replace the existing cleaned one. Thanks for such great do it yourself advice.
Scott, thank you so much for this upload. I didn't know how easy this fix was since here in Colorado Springs we just got about 6 inches of snow. I've replaced the gas valve
troubleshot everything I could think of until I found your video. A simple flame sensor switch, 1/4 socket and a piece of sandpaper. Thank you again ! 💯 👍
Your video and easy to follow directions means I figured out my furnace problem, lowered my stress (it was 5 below this morning), calmly got it fixed and without spending any money. Thank you!
Thank you! Our furnace went out today, and since it’s DEC 23rd, it was going to be next TUES before someone could come out to see about it, while temperatures are in the teens (F) all weekend. We would have probably frozen without your video! ❤
This video literally saved my butt. I just bought a house that sat for 3 years. No ignition on Guardian furnace. I no nothing about HVAC. I watched this, realized the stage I was at and checked the connections at pressure switch ( stage 2 ) and up and running. Saved me a repair!! Thanks!!!!!!!!
Boom 👊, that is what we are here for!
My furnace went out on Xmas eve and I had 30 guests coming with no time for a service call, talk about stressful. Anyway I watched this video, cleaned the sensor and ta da a beautifully warm home just in time. Took 5 minutes, a dollar bill and no parts. Thanks so much for this video and saving the day!
Thank you very much! Repaired the heater in our house last night based on your video, as it was very cold last night, it was a great help for our family to have the heater repaired with your guidance.
You just saved me from freezing to death brother....and a lot of money. I can't thank you enough. 🙏🤟🏼
Such a well done video. Clear, concise and easy to understand. Kudos!
most common reason, would be bill not paid
Thanks to this no-fluff video, I was able to clean our flame sensor and we didn't wake up freezing. My furnace is from a different manufacturer, but your explanation of the process was so clear that I was able to find the sensor on our unit. I'm most grateful, and subscribed.
Thank you! We have lived in our home for 20 years, the furnace is original to the home and 30 years old. We have never had a problem or any maintenance done on our furnace. It would start and stop, I followed your steps and cleaned the sensor rod and it is working again! Thank you!
You are SO good at explaining how this works. Im pretty sure this is my furnace issue. Thank you so much!
Scott, you're a natural teacher - concise, clear, well-paced, and encouraging. Thank you.
Thanks Daniel 👍
Woke up this Sunday AM it was 59 in my house! Watched your video, cleaned the flame sensor with a dollar bill and viola it is now 68 and cozy!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you so much!! My furnace had exactly this issue. I found this video. Told my husband, then he followed your instructions and now we have a working furnace again. Thank you again!!
Flame detection sensor went out on my furnace last year. I researched the part number, but heating repair places would not sell me the sensor. They told me that a service technician would have to come out and verify the condition. They told me it would take days before someone would be able to come out. So, I ordered it on Amazon, saved some money and fixed it myself.
Thank you for such an informative video. It really helped when we had furnace issues. Cleaned the flame sensor and it was working again. 😀
Great video!!! I discovered this on my own 15 years back, but I for got about this this week… I was having the darndest time remembering this now. I went without heat for a week, until I remembered that I could watch one of your videos!!! Thank you!!!
Man, you just saved me some money, I followed up all the steps that you mentioned on this video and now my furnace is working. Thanks!!
I have been doing HVAC/R for Many years, This is a SOLID explanation for the start up sequence.Great video! You might want to add a video for the igniter failure/replacement.
I have the on/ off switch not working but my furnace still blow air and the burners turn on but the blower doesn’t kick in to send air up what’s ur thoughs
@@raymondhoguelll2044 flame sensor
flame sensor
@Vladimir Putin smart gas valve was the main issue $ 1300 to fix
Works now 👍🏻
O9am
@@raymondhoguelll2044 Did you spend $1,300 bucks or just install a new furnace at the same price?
Another success story! Mine was a little harder to get at, but after having the system about 10 years it was due for a cleaning. Thanks again!
That's what happened to mine.... nozzle was corroded... used sand paper and a pin to clean nozzle. Just happened today as I figured it out and the service guy was there.
Thanks for the tips, I fixed it and didn't have to call anyone else... I think I just might get some tonight! 🙏🏾
You're welcome
Happy wife, happy life!
Great Video. Had this issue come up today. This troubleshoot did the fix. Total cost: $0, and a nervous spouse, worrying the furnace was history. Thank you for this video.
Scott, Great video. Like many, I solved this same issue for my sister and brother in law this past winter. Did some digging on their specific furnace, mobile home furnace but very similar to the one in the video as far as components go. Easy fix and got them warmed up. A week later they had a inspection done to make sure it was safe and not leaking CO2. They also have a CO detector near by.
Would be great to have input on how to do simple maintenance on minisplits, heat pumps and heat exchangers.
This is a great video explanation of a common heater failure. One of the best videos on the topic on RUclips…thank you for taking the time to share this information.
All these years, ive had to clean the flame sensor a handful of times, but i never knew anything about the lockout mode, and now everything makes so much sense, about why the furnace would try to start up, and then just plain stop for a really long time.
Thanks for the info!
Very true! I have 6 rental properties and always have flame sensors on hand. They are the number one cause. Great video as always!
Its very rare for a flame sensor to actually break, usually they just need cleaning.
@@Redtooth75 Maybe I missed this but ( I think) tech didn't RE-remind to be sure power off main("light switch"). Also do NOT clean sensor with sandpaper or anything rough. Coating of sensor not very thick. Elsewise video EXCELLENT; understanding operating sequence of unit is super useful. Furnaces, like cars, have become somewhat techy but necessary to keep em safe & efficient.
daughter called me, "dad our furnace will not turn on", she told me she called 3 different companies, 1st one wanted $30,000 to replace it all, 2nd & 3rd wanted $5,000-$7,000 to repair it. I sent my neighbor to her home, he replace the sensor for about $35.00........ needless to say, I bought my neighbor a Honey Baked Ham and a big can of Pork & Beans !!!! All is well !!.
Our furnace went out last night. Saw your video and gave it a try. Worked like a charm!! Thank you.
I watched several videos and finally I found the problem and solution with your help. Thank you so much I was able to clean off the igniter without removing it and bam it kept running and now how home is heating up. It fell to 12degrees last night so we needed this fix. Your are the hero.
When you remove the cover, some units have a safety switch preventing operation without the cover. You may have to tape that in the closed position to visually test like demonstrated. Great video.
Exactly... Trane units have a safety switch that that closes when the front cover is on and opens when the cover is removed. You have to tape it down for the furnace to operate with the door off. In fact, the door ajar is a common failure point for the furnace not working.... the tech comes out, makes sure the door properly shut and charges you $150 for his 1 minute of work....
@Vladimir Putin On my unit it is the top panel...
Can someone answer a question for me..... I cleaned my flame sensor - but my unit may or may not go on & then it does the 4 hr safety lock out...... I get a pilot Flame..... but it does not then expand to that blue blaze..... it will try 4x & then lock out...... does that mean my Gas Valve is going bad?
@@jackzeldon2883 look for the diagnostic code. It was tell you
This helped a ton, thank you! Had no idea
I would really like to thank you for this tutorial. Our furnace was doing exactly this. Following your instructions completely solved the issue. Thank you again and you will get a like and a subscriber.😎👍
Nice job helping ppl that may be out of work or some other circumstance where money is tight & now they can fix the furnace themselves. Thank You! 👍🇺🇲
Thank you for making this video! I was expecting to pay to have my furnace fixed but was able to do it myself in a few minutes. Repair went exactly as you explained it in the vid
Hey I just wanted to mention that there's a non mechanical step in addition to the ones you mentioned and I've had issues with and solved the problem. On the newer style furnaces the burners are kind of like flame guns. Anyways there is a narrow slot at the burning end of the burners that can sometimes get dust or carbon buildup in them. This causes the flame to not jump across all 3,4,5or6 burners so on. This in turn never reaches the flame sensor and causes shutdown. You see this when it happens if your watching the burners.
That's not a step. That's do to poor maintenance on your burners. What he described was the order of operation for heat.
What you just described is literally the purpose of the flame sensor being mounted on the opposite side of the HSI or other igniters. The gas channel allows the flame to pass to each jet of gas. If it fails that’s one of the times the Flame sensor says “nah fam I ain’t seeing it, shut er down and try again.”
Most modern furnaces have some kind of troubleshooting indicator on them (LED light(s) or a numeric display) that will help the owner determine what issue the furnace is reporting as to why it won't run. Usually there's a chart on the furnace, in the owner's manual, or that can be found online that will tell you what the indication means and how to resolve it.
My furnace has previously indicated that the flame wasn't detected, and what you did in this video was the fix for it.
Good note, I wanted to jump into the diagnostic codes but decided to make it a separate video 👍
I found mine on the box of last control board. Does not help me
my error light did not send out error code... I was looking for the error code in the number of blinks from the led light and there is nothing listed as a 1 blink... It showed there really wasn't anything wrong with the system. It was cleaning the gas nozzle; they were a little clogged.
17 yr old furnace, same symptoms, cleaned the flame sensor, fixed it! Thanks for the easy to follow explanation!!!
Thank you. Your description of the steps of start up helped me find the problem. I have a catch in the bearing of my inducing fan preventing it from starting up. Spun the fan, heard the bearing, then went and started ran full cycle. I’ll be replacing it real soon. Thanks.
Working with rental property I've had to clean a lot of flame rods, mostly because they do not tend to be very good house keepers. Good information 👍.
Oh man, I feel your pain 😂
Why would you expect your renters to do maintenance on your property? Thats what they pay you for.
I didn't say anything about maintenance of the house, just housekeeping, like keeping their places clean and removing their trash from the house.
@@yodasbff3395 you said that you had to clean flame sensors because the tenants are not good housekeepers. The cleanliness of the house has nothing to do with the flame sensor, or any part of the furnace besides the air filter to a certain extent.
Best explanation ever. Going through the cycles was so helpful in troubleshooting my problem. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! This was extremely helpful as our furnace went out today. Followed all your steps and it’s working ❤🙏🏽 thank you
Great video, thank your for the save, I woke up to a cold house today under this freeze warning in Tx with no heat, now my room is warm and my baby is ok.
When I bought my first home in 2013 the flame detector went out on our gas furnace that was originally installed in 1986. I knew nothing about how a gas furnace operates but did some digging and concluded the flame sensor needed replacing. I got it working again and figured I'd replace the entire furnace soon because it was so old, but it's now 2022 (36 y/o) and still working fine. As a safety measure I did try to push an inspection camera into the heat exchanger (not easy) to look for corrosion and I keep way too many CO detectors throughout the house in case the furnace ever leaks CO, but they all still read zero ppm.
Yeah, The unit at my house is 25 years old and the heat exchanger has enough corrosion I am starting to get a little more concerned.
No corrosion in the heat exchanger. Unbelievable. Thank you.
very smart decision. good job
I only had to replace a furnace because the new insurance company didn't like the age. It had a single piece cast iron flame distribution. The manual had goofy little 50s style cartoon characters. The only problem it had was the pilot blew out every once in a while.
@@KLondike5 - That's unfortunate. I've also heard similar stories, but about 15+ year old roofs in Florida, where the insurance company doesn't want to renew the home insurance policy unless the homeowner replaces their still perfectly fine roof.
Good video should help a lot of people. I’ve successfully serviced furnaces myself for quite a few years with no training. There’s really only so many components to check and things to go bad or get dirty. Identifying the failsafe switches is important. The only parts I have ever replaced over the years were thermocouples and 1 circuit board that got water damaged from a missing stack cap. Everything else was a result of being dirty or corroded and cleaning cured it. The most common problems I have come across were thermocouples and corrosion on burner circuits preventing ignition. Something anyone with a basic understanding of how things work can service I believe. Just gotta use your head.
Hey, thanks for your comment on this. I'm now thinking my problem is also with the thermocoupler. I got a brand new flame sensor just to rule out an issue with the old one.
Basically, the cycle gets to the flames, and even the blower, but then the flames go out, with the blower continuing,
I took out the burners and made sure they were clean and didn't have any air leaks, but that didn't change the situation. Also the control board was replaced only a few years ago so I don't think that's the issue either.
What do you think? Do I just need to replace the thermocoupler?
@@teegeesIf you think that thermocouple is even just 5 years old, for the money especially, I would replace it. They’re pretty universal and usually less than $10 at typical stores. Unless you turn off the gas and completely shut the furnace down for the summer, they have a constant pilot on them year round and they get burned down to a nub and stop working or get weak. Because what they do is produce a small amount of electricity to keep a valve open as long as they are staying hot. So if you’re igniting the burners and then everything blows out after a minute or two I am thinking the draw of fresh cool air through the furnace when the flames are burning is causing a weak thermocouple to cool off just enough to close that pilot valve and kill the pilot light. Once the pilot light is off the whole burner operation is going to shut down whether the main burners are burning or not because the thermocouple is a failsafe mechanism. If the thermocouple is in good shape though and it looks like it has it’s shape still cleaning them with a wire brush can improve their sensitivity because they can get a residue from condensation on them. Being sure the pilot port is clean is a good idea too so the thermocouple is getting a crisp rich flame to stay hot. And also it is important that the flame is hitting the tip of the thermocouple. Usually the last 1/4-1/2” and this can be adjusted as well. If you replace the thermocouple just be careful not to kink pilot gas line while working on it. They’re delicate. Use the old thermocouple to pre match the route of the line of the new it will make installation easier. I’ve replaced thermocouples with & without taking the complete pilot assembly out it just depends on how easy the particular unit is to get to 🤷♂️. If you’re having to relight the pilot though each time I think it sounds like the problem though. I hope this helps.
@@bensk8in467 hey thanks your detailed response and tips on this. Turns out my furnace has no pilot light and the igniter is a ceramic heating element which heats up and ignites the gas. Since I had already checked the burners and replaced the flame sensor I was looking to now replace the limit switch, and then the gas valve if necessary (most expensive part to replace). So far I’m just using space heaters but eventually I’ll get things working again. Thanks again 🙏
@@teegees Sure you’re welcome it could help someone if not you anyway. I did wonder if you possibly had an electric igniter. Glad you have some heat at least for now. One more thing to possibly check is if it has an automatic damper for the exhaust. Because if that isn’t opening up it would shut the flame off. They can stick and not work right if it has one. I think you have a failsafe switch issue of some kind. One thing to keep in mind troubleshooting sensors is they generally two wire & just on or off so you can disconnect the switch and connect the two wires to bypass. If things cycle as they should, you know it’s that switch and saves the guesswork. Hope you get er man 👍
@@bensk8in467 You’re spot on there. Thank you sir.
Today our furnace started acting just like on your video. My wife and I would like to thank you sooo much, as this solved our problem. We are currently having a winter storm here in Central Texas. I subbed and liked the channel.
Thank you so much. I am 60, temp 25 in Michigan today .. thanks to you I fixed it on my own, with your help. God knows, I don't have the money to pay someone to fix it. Thank you so much.
I had similar symptoms in a gas furnace. Turned out the draft enducer would cut out randomly momentarily while running slamming the gas valve open/ closed. Two different tech calls later and a new gas valve the problem still persisted. So I took matters in my own hand- turned out there was a partial blockage in my chimney. I had a co detector in the same room, never went off but probably due to the draft enducer saving our lives. Moral is to clean the chimney even if all you have is gas.
Yep. Chimney in a one hundred year old house was plugged up. I got it cleaned out and saved a service call. Now I check it every fall.
I’ve had a situation a couple of times on my furnace where the blower pressure diaphragm switch was “stuck, or stiff” and would not close during the first startup of the season. Taking the tube off and blowing/ sucking gently to exercise the diaphragm solved the problem for,the rest of the season. Had one other occasion where the incoming air was at -35F and made it so stiff it wouldn’t flex.
Leaving the service cover off for a bit allowed it to warm up enough to operate. Really helps to know,how to troubleshoot these things when it’s cold and dark and the service tech is a day away!
Jesus, you're going to kill someone. The diaphragm doesn't get "stiff"
@@benjohnson4404 It does when the incoming air is minus 25 degrees celcius!
Thank you so much for this video. My Train xv95 stopped lighting and you helped me diagnose that it was the “glow stick” igniter that was broken. I got it replaced and everything was great for about 20 hours, and then I got hit with the flame sensor issue in this video. After some time with a kitchen scrubby it now works fine. You’ve saved me hundreds of dollars.
You're work saves lives and sanity, thank you so much!
One other common causes of a furnace not staying on is the filter needs replacing. The blower motors usually have a thermal protection device for when the motor gets too warm. (ask me how I know this one)
One cause that will keep Step 3 from happening is the ignitor has burned through. Had this happen twice at my last house over 12 years time. Usually unplugs (two wires in the wire harness) and then be checked with a continuity tester.
Somewhere there is often an LED that will flash an error code (long flashes and short flashes) and a listing of what the error code means.
Dear David, how u know this one？
3 years since a service? I saw a similar furnace open in Lowes. Looked identical to my 40 year old furnace. Checked part numbers on my parts, most are still used on brand new models. My furnace also has an LED that will blink and you compare the blinks to the svc manual and it self diagnosis. I usually use scotch brite on the temp. senser. Never touch your igniter. Its like a hallogen headlight on a car. Touch the bulb abd it will burn out whwn it heats up.
Flame sensor
I’ve been watching and reading tips for hours! This did the trick and you did a great job explaining how to do it. Thanks!!
This video saved us a lot of money today. The problem with our furnace was one of those listed, in the video we were shown exactly how to fix it. The problem literally took less than 15 min to fix.
5:55 - Use a wad of five $100 bills to clean it. Then put them back in your pocket and smile to yourself knowing that you're not handing them to an HVAC contractor for a service call.
This was excellent information. Thanks for sharing. 😎👍
Edit: always good to save money on repairs because you're going to need every spare penny to pay the gas bill this winter.
My man! Because of this video I didn’t have to call the repair man to come out. I went through the steps as you described and now we’re in here good and toasty! Just had to clean off the carbon on that sensor and the flame stayed lit. Thanks a lot!!!
So easy to understand and follow your instructions! That might sound simple, but it's not always a common skill.
Very beneficial for us DIY'ers who refuse to call a repairman.
Scott
You are absolutely wrong with suggesting steel wool to clean a flame sensor! Using steel wool takes the coating off the sensor which is as much important as it is not to touch the sensor with your fingers. Cleaning can be done with a dollar bill or a scotch Brite (green pad) only!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Nice video, well done. Fine steel wool is OK to use, that's what was recommended to use back in the day. However, I went to scotch brite pads because fine steel wool corrodes easily. The flame rod does not have a coating as far as I know, you want to avoid abrasive cleaners like sandpaper or plumbers roll because they will etch grooves into the flame rod material that will quickly fill with detritus leading to premature failure. A typical flame signal is in a range of 1 dc microamp to 3 dc microamps and anything that increases the resistance to the flow of such a tiny current will cause trouble. Even a rusty/dirty gas burner (serving as the ground conductor) will do it. The flame signal returns to the control board via chassis ground so if the burner is rusty or the ground wire is loose, you'll will likely have flame failure.
Perfect worked like a charm...new year's day so can't get any parts till tommorow, and we have guests comming tonight for a few days. Really got me out of a jam there thank you. Gonna stock up on parts for next time. Thanks again
It did cost something! You had to have a dollar to do it! 🤣🤣
That was an investment as I got my money back 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs word! 🤣 And saved at least a $150 service fee! 🤣
@@HannahMattox 💯
Notice how this furnace has three flames, with only one igniter and one sensor. They are all in a line with the igniter and sensor at opposite ends, so the fire spreads from one end to the other, and the end with the sensor can only light if every single burner lights to pass that flame along.
First time home owner here. And this worked great. Cleaned off the censor rod and now it's all good. Appreciate the help
Just followed this and cleaning helped!!! Thank you so much! It was 62 in our house already back up to 68!!
Wow, the internet just doesn’t listen in to our conversations, now it’s reading my mind. Your video just showed up and it is describing my issue exactly as it has been happening. Tomorrow this problem will be identified and I’m sure it will be fixed, hopefully with just a cleaning. Thanks.
Hi Scott, thanks for posting this video. It helped me narrow down my furnace issue. much appreciated. Keep it up!
I had this problem for the past day or two and your video was spot onto the solution! Thank you so much! As others have said, I appreciate your straightforward solution with no fluff and excellent information.
Thanks for the feedback!
I did what you said in the video and it worked! Thank you so much. You saved me a few hundred dollars from having a repairman coming out.👍👍
Great video! I was able to get my unit running in no time thanks to you! Keep up the good work!
Great video. Been there, done that. Was without heat for month when hiring a terrible HVAC firm. He started just changing parts. First the electronic control unit $500. The tried to change the gas control valve but couldn't get it off, not sure how much that was. After they didn't show up or call for a week or so, I called the original installer and asked for a tech who had helped in the past. Should have done that in the first place but thought I'd try a new company with an inspection discount. He showed up and this is the first thing he looked at, quick cleaning and started right up. He told me there are a lot of "parts changers" in the industry who will just keep doing so until they strike onto something.
Thanks so much for this video. It is a super clear explanation of how a furnace works. My furnace was not making heat and I was on the verge of looking for an HVAC company to come out and fix it but that would have undoubtedly cost me hundreds of dollars and days of delay. This video showed me that my ignitor was bad and I was able to fix it myself. The repair was actually quite simple. Thanks again for this excellent video!!! You're a rock star!!!
I just got the furnace lighted and saved Xmas. Thanks to your video! Cheers!
Great Video!!! Fixed my furnace about 5 minutes ago! We will sleep well tonight, thank you much!
Very good video. I just had this happen.but it was the plenum but was under warranty. But he showed me the maintenance I need to do. Very simple. Very thankful for what he did.
Thank you! Got my in-laws furnace working on the weekend. They both had Covid and no furnace. You had us heat in 15 minutes!
A few years back started having issues with our furnace. Did a google search and found what I think is the most comprehensive troubleshooting guide for my model. It takes you down paths, confirming yes/no operation for every possible scenario/operation. Over the years, I have replaced pressure switch, 12V power supply and main control board.
24v power supply?
@@SilverandCigars maybe. It saw a small transformer; either 12 or 24v.
Very good sharing. Excellent teacher/instructor. Clear step by step instructions complimented with good video. Ace.