Came across your video today. As a semi-retired HVAC specialist with 20+ years of experience, you are correct in the fact that this is what you typically see for an A/C install... Usually, a result of the cheapest bidder gets the job, ESPECIALLY in new construction... As I see it, those pressure boxes KILL air flow!! They build too much static pressure, and when you are talking HVAC, it's ALL about airflow, airflow, airflow... Another major issue with this is the quality of the installation. The flex duct is great; however, it MUST be sized & installed properly. All the ductwork should be sized according to ACCA Manual D, and all ductwork must be pulled tight and strapped every 24". You want nice big curves, no hard kinks, and ABSOLUTELY NO pressure boxes...
Yes dont know why he was worried about sealed boxes when they shouldn't be there in first place.i would have ran metal trunk in the time he played with those boxes wich are incorrect. Never understood why people ever thought that having your whole duck system flex is ok 5ft per take off is what it should be not whole system.
@@ZimZam131 you are not supposed to split in first place. Flex is only for short individual runs not to do the whole duck system. You should have a main trunk with individual take offs.
@@richardharmon874 The main trunk in my house looks like an 18 inch flex duct about 25 foot or so. So is my whole duct system done wrong? I’m actually trying to get quotes to replace them now. They are old and leaky. I don’t get how a box can “add” pressure. Only the fan adds pressure. Maybe A/C SuperCool meant it adds turbulence?
@@ZimZam131 yes unfortunately its done wrong. It will work but its not correct. You can Google what the maximum flex duct length is acceptable. I think its 5 to 7 feet. I from new England, we use metal duct, down south they use duct board but never run a trunk in Florida they just flex the whole system wich is not the correct way.
Great information here. My problem is I have insulation blowing through the registers in two bedrooms. A/c guys came out and said the problem area we cannot get to. There is only 18 inches for a man to get through to inspect the ducting or whatever the problem is. Why can I do?
I've got the exact same issues. New unit outside, new air handler under the house, new flex duct, everything new. Was under the house last week while the AC was running and noticed all the condensation. Had the AC ppl out & they increased the speed of the blower up one notch to see if maybe it didn't have enough air moving across inside the unit. Went under the house today & with the increased fan speed I can now tell that air is being lost at basically every outlet of the plenum supply box to where the flex duct first connects to the plenum. It doesn't have mastic sealant completely around it. Also have two rips on the outer layer of flex duct & they said it doesn't really affect anything but they would tape it anyway. Well it's got air leakage around those rips & condensation so it obviously does make a difference. Because of all this I've got specks of black mold dots scattered around the areas of moisture loss, which I first noticed last year. The house never previously had mold the 30yrs prior to me moving in until this new install
Frustrating for we home owners who do not and should not be expected to know the industry specs and procedures for a HVAC system or any other functions in our home to include electrical, plumbing or even an auto mechanic as another example. Since innovations like the internet and RUclips we do have some way to vet contractor's work, but its a daunting task and I'm never sure I've covered at least the basics. Point being, I really shouldn't have to. It's sad the industry standard by "professionals" is to make as many short cuts as possible putting more money in the contractor's pocket to include the fact so many people are just lazy. It should be shameful, but it isn't. Sad testimony of the level of work ethic in this country. I don't mind paying for a professional, but we should have some confidence we'll get what we pay for.
just ripped out 2000 sq ft crawlspace duct system and am properly doing it myself for the exact reason(s) of : lack of ethical work practices, failure to follow any 'standard' of installation, failure to clean up after work done. add any i missed. saved $20,000 on an estimate. took me weeks , but... it's done absolutely correct
That's my question as well. Of the fiberglass on the duct that's weighed down is wet should you let it dry out and mask it back up instead of replacing the whole duct. 🤔
My AC was replaced a year ago May. An hour after the installer left it stopped running. Fast forward 2 months and 8+ calls and 5+ tech visits, they figured out the correction. They sent out one guy to fix the plenum problem with pinched duct work. 2 hours later they sent out two more people to fix the other issue causing the unit to shut off. These guys while doing this broke every seal the previous guy and with the plenum correction. They left without checking or noticing the cold air pouring into the attic. I found this later that night. A manager was sent out to correct. This manager just taped around anything and everything. He said this was the proper fix and it would hold. So, it took 3 months for them to get a new unit to run the way it should while looking like a warmed-over turd. Fast forward 11 months and this July our how was not cooling. They sent someone out and he supposedly checked the air handler in the attic. Our bill with a new unit was $100 higher than the prior year. Now August we have issues cooling the house. Don't forget I have a new unit. I finally went into the attic and quickly noticed the air was pouring out into the attic space where the plenum was taped to the air handler. I look to my left and there is this rectangular piece of metal dangling, hanging from a piece of tape on what appears to be the suction side of the air handler. Not a professional, so this might be incorrect. But this piece has no flanges on it for which to attach to the plenum or the air handler. So, it was in fact attached to a component that operated under pressure via tape only. They came out yesterday to fix this issue. It is my belief that the only way to correct this it to rip off the plenums and duct work and start over. How can I get this company to properly fix this? Can I demand a refund? Can I demand they pay for my extra electric fees for their negligence? I have been told by one or two people there that the crew they had install my unit were not properly qualified and that they did a poor job. I've spent over 11k on this unit and do not believe it is properly installed and do not believe that this company can or will properly fix this issue. Is there anything I can do or anyone I can talk to besides this company to resolve this?
Talk to your state licensing board and file a complaint. Notify the HVAC company and let them know that you intend to file a complaint with the board. Let them know that you are providing them an opportunity to fix the problem.
For all adhesives on all surfaces, you want clean mating surfaces. That mainly means there shouldn’t be small particles like dust, dirt or degraded adhesive that is easily peeling off. Small particles act like a barrier between a mating surface and an adhesive, causing the adhesive to peel off. A rough, imperfect surface is fine, as long as it’s brushed off.
Hi, thanks for the question. I am assuming this ductwork is located in the attic. It won't. If the collar isn't sealed correctly, and there is pressurized air blowing through/passed it, then that cool air will always make contact with surfaces that will condensate. Fiberglass is the sponge. It will continue to absorb. The more water held in the insulation, the more breakdown of on insulation performance (the R-value is 0 once its wet) which will only exponentially increase the situation. Once there is physical wetness, it needs replacing unfortunately.
Wait, so they just taped the insulation surrounding the duct, but not the actual metal duct joints? I heard you can use tape instead of mastic to seal the ductwork.
When I see systems like this is makes me sad, people have lost their pride and what it means to install good work. Cheap, fast and lazy are the new words for most companies. Sadly the days of old school installers are over, now its all about cheap.
@@rodgraff1782 Because companies are cheap and don't care about anything other than profit. I have seen company after company pay very low wage, no benefits, and fire people or lay them off min things slow up. This is why no one with talent stays or if they do cares. The issue stems from the core, companies no longer operate to do good work, its all about fast money. Best thing people can do is learn as much as they can and do things themselves.
See it all the time pretty much on every single job just about... Its always the same thing.. duct slid on too much not about bite room not enough tape in the right spots, also never any spray glue first for the tape!! Ill even see the putter liner not tucked in so the insul. Is just on the collar itself.. I see alot of ppl use a zip tie but that's basically uselrss lol
So I can tell that the interior of one of my boxes is wet on it's top panel. There's some sort of electrical control box mounted to the top of it. The electrical box says "XCI ZONING POCJ" on it, and has a wire running into a wall. I believe it's the control running downstairs to the downstairs thermostat. I think the installation of this electrical box through the fiberglass box, ruined all of it's insulating properties leading to moisture collecting in the top panel at the intrusion point of this electrical box. Well anyways the box is probably 4' L, 2'h, 2'deep the the entire top corner near this mounting is FREEZING cold and pooling water on top of the box. Everything seems soaked on the inside, which is why its freezing cold through the mastic. How best should I fix this? Obviously replacing the entire box is an option, but I really don't know how comfortable I am about doing that, and I assume any quote from HVAC companies is going to be way out of my budget. My idea was to create a but of a "chimney" of cardboard around the electrical box to keep it safe, and then using closed cell spray foam all around that cold section of the box. Would adding this layer of insulation be an effective solution? My hypothesis being that this will keep the dew point inside the box from collecting more water, and it will simply dry itself over time. I even contemplated running the heat and house fan through it afterwards to push the humidity out of the ductwork and into the home, where I can collect and dispose of it via opening the windows (50% humidity outside) and running dehumidifiers. My hope is that solution will A) insulate the box from the outside so that new water stops soaking the inside of the box, (B) removes the existing water from the inside of the box.
I would have torn all that out and re ran everything with the proper sizes, using Y branches, instead of tying to repair that restrictive distribution box.
That’s one hell of a hack installation. Where’s the metal supply trunk? What a joke. And this guy is worried about the duct seal. He did the same thing. All they did was add the duct seal around the flex collars that were tapped into that mixing box. Tear that sloppy mess out of there and give the home owners a solid install. Probably charged them a pretty penny to correct the problem..wink wink.
The sad thing is, even if the home owner hires the lowest bidder, that person is still supposed to be a professional. Otherwise, you could have just hired a couple of crack heads to do it. Even people who charge the most can still do a shitty job. The common home owner won't know the difference until months later, regardless of what they charged you. I hired an AC company to replace my AC. They did an inspection and replaced it. I even paid an extra $1000 for an extended warranty. Then, 6 months later, they said my ductwork was bad, leaking, full of mold and needed replacing, and my warranty would be voided if the unit fails because they'll blame it all on the ductwork if i refuse to let them fix it. Why didn’t the high-priced AC company tell me my ductwork was bad before they installed the new AC and hooked it to the bad ductwork? Because the highest bidder didn’t want to lose the sale and they wanted to make more money by forcing me to replace the $9000 ductwork later. The point is you can't assume the lowest bidder will do shitty work just because he has low reasonable prices. Just like hiring the highest bidder doesn't mean you will get better quality of work. They could just be greedy.
I do ducts gpr mobile homes along with the seals left behind by plumbers, electricians, and hvac ppl, as well as the vapor. Barrier. We take a before video and after. We stand by our work. Basically every home is supposed to have this done and dame quality of work. Its nothing made up. This is literally by code, its a healthcare issue. You could day the homes are in a state of recall.. anyways i like being able to help ppl. Every job we do is always done wrong from someone else. Its good in a round about way BC we'll always have work anyways 😂
I cant believe people think those distribution boxes are correct. You see this in Florida all the time.i would not be worried about the seal i would rip all that crap out and run a metal trunk, flex should ony be run 5 to 7 feet not the whole duck system. The truth is all that duck is wrong if you think its ok then you failed sealed or not sealed.
Yep I born n raised in Florida. Pretty much every single duct job I ever seen isn't done right like shotty work, or just not proper, I mean anyone can technically tape.the ducts on.. doesn't mean it'll be correct, basically ain't going to last long.. you especially on Florida. No 1 I ever seen even uses spray glue .. also sliding duct on too far . Tape not in the right spot. Which is why it always never lasts hardly and starts falling apart the duct and tape.. anyways I'm doing my house at the moment actually. Had some huge gaps in my vents even a huge hole in my trunkline where a duct used to be!! 😅 It was capped with the leftover trunkline except just a little tape of course with humidity and condensation.. crazy glad we go it fixed...
Yup spray glue duct tape. Gotta have metal tape too,in the right spots. Like metal on metal... Yeah tho you dont even need to go crazy with the tape 3 layers. Squeegee real good. Mastic is still good matter fact needed for shit to be proper.. for Y connections and the unit connection atleast.. anyway
People design homes Wrong. The heat and air units should have their own room downstairs in the main house. The units should have enough room to work on all sides. Returns should be at floor level for filter changes. No access and difficulty breeds neglect and shorty installations in my opinion. Attics need a good walk board system throughout with plenty of lighting and some receptacles for maintenance work and inspections for various issues. My wife was a in a wheelchair and when we built a house they wanted to put units in the attic and returns in the ceiling. The units are in the center of the house and have their own room. Returns are on floor level in the hall ways on two sides of the house, easy access for filter changes. Like I told them, if I die ,she needs to be able to change filters . I also told them in our hot georgia summers the last place I want to be is in the attic and I wouldn't expect an ac guy to spend enough time to do a good job in some cases. 140 degrees is not a friendly environment. Think f the people who have to maintain the plumbing and heat and air systems.
Why not replace that with a duct lined metal box or metal trunk assuming your prolly in Florida or Texas where humidity is a big issue so you use duct board but it’s trash. And so did the end after y’all mastic it like preschool kids painting
Came across your video today. As a semi-retired HVAC specialist with 20+ years of experience, you are correct in the fact that this is what you typically see for an A/C install... Usually, a result of the cheapest bidder gets the job, ESPECIALLY in new construction... As I see it, those pressure boxes KILL air flow!! They build too much static pressure, and when you are talking HVAC, it's ALL about airflow, airflow, airflow... Another major issue with this is the quality of the installation. The flex duct is great; however, it MUST be sized & installed properly. All the ductwork should be sized according to ACCA Manual D, and all ductwork must be pulled tight and strapped every 24". You want nice big curves, no hard kinks, and ABSOLUTELY NO pressure boxes...
Yes dont know why he was worried about sealed boxes when they shouldn't be there in first place.i would have ran metal trunk in the time he played with those boxes wich are incorrect. Never understood why people ever thought that having your whole duck system flex is ok 5ft per take off is what it should be not whole system.
Without a pressure box, how do you split a large feeder duct into multiple small ducts?
@@ZimZam131 you are not supposed to split in first place. Flex is only for short individual runs not to do the whole duck system. You should have a main trunk with individual take offs.
@@richardharmon874 The main trunk in my house looks like an 18 inch flex duct about 25 foot or so. So is my whole duct system done wrong? I’m actually trying to get quotes to replace them now. They are old and leaky.
I don’t get how a box can “add” pressure. Only the fan adds pressure. Maybe A/C SuperCool meant it adds turbulence?
@@ZimZam131 yes unfortunately its done wrong. It will work but its not correct. You can Google what the maximum flex duct length is acceptable. I think its 5 to 7 feet. I from new England, we use metal duct, down south they use duct board but never run a trunk in Florida they just flex the whole system wich is not the correct way.
Great information here. My problem is I have insulation blowing through the registers in two bedrooms. A/c guys came out and said the problem area we cannot get to. There is only 18 inches for a man to get through to inspect the ducting or whatever the problem is. Why can I do?
I've got the exact same issues. New unit outside, new air handler under the house, new flex duct, everything new. Was under the house last week while the AC was running and noticed all the condensation. Had the AC ppl out & they increased the speed of the blower up one notch to see if maybe it didn't have enough air moving across inside the unit. Went under the house today & with the increased fan speed I can now tell that air is being lost at basically every outlet of the plenum supply box to where the flex duct first connects to the plenum. It doesn't have mastic sealant completely around it. Also have two rips on the outer layer of flex duct & they said it doesn't really affect anything but they would tape it anyway. Well it's got air leakage around those rips & condensation so it obviously does make a difference. Because of all this I've got specks of black mold dots scattered around the areas of moisture loss, which I first noticed last year. The house never previously had mold the 30yrs prior to me moving in until this new install
No comment on the duct at the top/back turning a sharp 150 degrees and squashed up against the roof? I think you said that was the supply to the box!
Frustrating for we home owners who do not and should not be expected to know the industry specs and procedures for a HVAC system or any other functions in our home to include electrical, plumbing or even an auto mechanic as another example. Since innovations like the internet and RUclips we do have some way to vet contractor's work, but its a daunting task and I'm never sure I've covered at least the basics. Point being, I really shouldn't have to. It's sad the industry standard by "professionals" is to make as many short cuts as possible putting more money in the contractor's pocket to include the fact so many people are just lazy. It should be shameful, but it isn't. Sad testimony of the level of work ethic in this country. I don't mind paying for a professional, but we should have some confidence we'll get what we pay for.
just ripped out 2000 sq ft crawlspace duct system and am properly doing it myself for the exact reason(s) of : lack of ethical work practices, failure to follow any 'standard' of installation, failure to clean up after work done. add any i missed. saved $20,000 on an estimate. took me weeks , but... it's done absolutely correct
Nice nice. I need to make a video myself to show people.
I guarantee the highest quality for all of my installations. I also am NEVER the cheapest bidder.
The funny thing is that this type of installation is common in very expensive homes.
new installer here. would TYs work better for the air flow instead of the box?
Does flex pipe use a diffrent sealing compound than regular stove pipe?
Did you replace all the wet insulation?
That's my question as well. Of the fiberglass on the duct that's weighed down is wet should you let it dry out and mask it back up instead of replacing the whole duct. 🤔
My AC was replaced a year ago May. An hour after the installer left it stopped running. Fast forward 2 months and 8+ calls and 5+ tech visits, they figured out the correction. They sent out one guy to fix the plenum problem with pinched duct work. 2 hours later they sent out two more people to fix the other issue causing the unit to shut off. These guys while doing this broke every seal the previous guy and with the plenum correction. They left without checking or noticing the cold air pouring into the attic. I found this later that night. A manager was sent out to correct. This manager just taped around anything and everything. He said this was the proper fix and it would hold. So, it took 3 months for them to get a new unit to run the way it should while looking like a warmed-over turd. Fast forward 11 months and this July our how was not cooling. They sent someone out and he supposedly checked the air handler in the attic. Our bill with a new unit was $100 higher than the prior year. Now August we have issues cooling the house. Don't forget I have a new unit. I finally went into the attic and quickly noticed the air was pouring out into the attic space where the plenum was taped to the air handler. I look to my left and there is this rectangular piece of metal dangling, hanging from a piece of tape on what appears to be the suction side of the air handler. Not a professional, so this might be incorrect. But this piece has no flanges on it for which to attach to the plenum or the air handler. So, it was in fact attached to a component that operated under pressure via tape only. They came out yesterday to fix this issue. It is my belief that the only way to correct this it to rip off the plenums and duct work and start over. How can I get this company to properly fix this? Can I demand a refund? Can I demand they pay for my extra electric fees for their negligence? I have been told by one or two people there that the crew they had install my unit were not properly qualified and that they did a poor job. I've spent over 11k on this unit and do not believe it is properly installed and do not believe that this company can or will properly fix this issue. Is there anything I can do or anyone I can talk to besides this company to resolve this?
Talk to your state licensing board and file a complaint. Notify the HVAC company and let them know that you intend to file a complaint with the board. Let them know that you are providing them an opportunity to fix the problem.
Do yall service destrehan?
HVAC contractors want nothing more than to sell you a new unit for tens of thousands of dollars and then do a shotty duct job like this.
Should the old adhesive/glue be removed as best as possible before adding new adhesive/glue?
For all adhesives on all surfaces, you want clean mating surfaces. That mainly means there shouldn’t be small particles like dust, dirt or degraded adhesive that is easily peeling off.
Small particles act like a barrier between a mating surface and an adhesive, causing the adhesive to peel off. A rough, imperfect surface is fine, as long as it’s brushed off.
I have water in my ductwork. Will this evaporate. I had the AC temp higher for about 10 days as we were out of town.
Hi, thanks for the question. I am assuming this ductwork is located in the attic. It won't. If the collar isn't sealed correctly, and there is pressurized air blowing through/passed it, then that cool air will always make contact with surfaces that will condensate. Fiberglass is the sponge. It will continue to absorb. The more water held in the insulation, the more breakdown of on insulation performance (the R-value is 0 once its wet) which will only exponentially increase the situation. Once there is physical wetness, it needs replacing unfortunately.
@@diversifiedenergy8486 Thank you!
When are we going to stop putting HVAC in the attic? They are losing the efficiency if they furnace and a/c.
What about the kinked flex on the top connection?
Wait, so they just taped the insulation surrounding the duct, but not the actual metal duct joints? I heard you can use tape instead of mastic to seal the ductwork.
When I see systems like this is makes me sad, people have lost their pride and what it means to install good work. Cheap, fast and lazy are the new words for most companies. Sadly the days of old school installers are over, now its all about cheap.
What do you expect when they hire labor with no experience, or any idea of what they are doing.
@@rodgraff1782 Because companies are cheap and don't care about anything other than profit. I have seen company after company pay very low wage, no benefits, and fire people or lay them off min things slow up. This is why no one with talent stays or if they do cares. The issue stems from the core, companies no longer operate to do good work, its all about fast money. Best thing people can do is learn as much as they can and do things themselves.
See it all the time pretty much on every single job just about... Its always the same thing.. duct slid on too much not about bite room not enough tape in the right spots, also never any spray glue first for the tape!! Ill even see the putter liner not tucked in so the insul. Is just on the collar itself.. I see alot of ppl use a zip tie but that's basically uselrss lol
What is the cure time
Mold?
Get was trying to help keep the attic cool
So I can tell that the interior of one of my boxes is wet on it's top panel. There's some sort of electrical control box mounted to the top of it. The electrical box says "XCI ZONING POCJ" on it, and has a wire running into a wall. I believe it's the control running downstairs to the downstairs thermostat. I think the installation of this electrical box through the fiberglass box, ruined all of it's insulating properties leading to moisture collecting in the top panel at the intrusion point of this electrical box.
Well anyways the box is probably 4' L, 2'h, 2'deep the the entire top corner near this mounting is FREEZING cold and pooling water on top of the box. Everything seems soaked on the inside, which is why its freezing cold through the mastic. How best should I fix this? Obviously replacing the entire box is an option, but I really don't know how comfortable I am about doing that, and I assume any quote from HVAC companies is going to be way out of my budget. My idea was to create a but of a "chimney" of cardboard around the electrical box to keep it safe, and then using closed cell spray foam all around that cold section of the box. Would adding this layer of insulation be an effective solution? My hypothesis being that this will keep the dew point inside the box from collecting more water, and it will simply dry itself over time. I even contemplated running the heat and house fan through it afterwards to push the humidity out of the ductwork and into the home, where I can collect and dispose of it via opening the windows (50% humidity outside) and running dehumidifiers.
My hope is that solution will A) insulate the box from the outside so that new water stops soaking the inside of the box, (B) removes the existing water from the inside of the box.
I would have torn all that out and re ran everything with the proper sizes, using Y branches, instead of tying to repair that restrictive distribution box.
Would making the box bigger make it less restrictive? How much bigger?
Nice work sir I for like to join you for the work am a Nigeria I have experience sir
Are we listening to you or the piano playing in the background?
FML my crawl space handler and ducting is a mess, now I know why.
You should've gutted it down to the ceiling line and ran new metal trunk line instead of adding mastic on a ductboard system.
Rip all
Of it out. Spray foam and use minisplit
That’s one hell of a hack installation. Where’s the metal supply trunk? What a joke. And this guy is worried about the duct seal. He did the same thing. All they did was add the duct seal around the flex collars that were tapped into that mixing box. Tear that sloppy mess out of there and give the home owners a solid install. Probably charged them a pretty penny to correct the problem..wink wink.
Some people cant afford the big fix,
That dust is from that nasty attic space.
I can taste the dust in that attic
Improvement?? Get a trunkline and get rid of flex, that would be Improvement
Agreed you only sealed a piss poor designed duct fix it right
The sad thing is, even if the home owner hires the lowest bidder, that person is still supposed to be a professional. Otherwise, you could have just hired a couple of crack heads to do it. Even people who charge the most can still do a shitty job. The common home owner won't know the difference until months later, regardless of what they charged you.
I hired an AC company to replace my AC. They did an inspection and replaced it. I even paid an extra $1000 for an extended warranty. Then, 6 months later, they said my ductwork was bad, leaking, full of mold and needed replacing, and my warranty would be voided if the unit fails because they'll blame it all on the ductwork if i refuse to let them fix it. Why didn’t the high-priced AC company tell me my ductwork was bad before they installed the new AC and hooked it to the bad ductwork? Because the highest bidder didn’t want to lose the sale and they wanted to make more money by forcing me to replace the $9000 ductwork later. The point is you can't assume the lowest bidder will do shitty work just because he has low reasonable prices. Just like hiring the highest bidder doesn't mean you will get better quality of work. They could just be greedy.
I do ducts gpr mobile homes along with the seals left behind by plumbers, electricians, and hvac ppl, as well as the vapor. Barrier. We take a before video and after. We stand by our work. Basically every home is supposed to have this done and dame quality of work. Its nothing made up. This is literally by code, its a healthcare issue. You could day the homes are in a state of recall.. anyways i like being able to help ppl. Every job we do is always done wrong from someone else. Its good in a round about way BC we'll always have work anyways 😂
Sir I am air conditioner duct fitter you have vacancy I am experience 15 years Gulf country in Kuwait
Kinisou kinisou ngenuk pwipwi nge omwusono you con mantee love
Matilda! 😍
I cant believe people think those distribution boxes are correct. You see this in Florida all the time.i would not be worried about the seal i would rip all that crap out and run a metal trunk, flex should ony be run 5 to 7 feet not the whole duck system. The truth is all that duck is wrong if you think its ok then you failed sealed or not sealed.
Yep I born n raised in Florida. Pretty much every single duct job I ever seen isn't done right like shotty work, or just not proper, I mean anyone can technically tape.the ducts on.. doesn't mean it'll be correct, basically ain't going to last long.. you especially on Florida. No 1 I ever seen even uses spray glue .. also sliding duct on too far . Tape not in the right spot. Which is why it always never lasts hardly and starts falling apart the duct and tape.. anyways I'm doing my house at the moment actually. Had some huge gaps in my vents even a huge hole in my trunkline where a duct used to be!! 😅 It was capped with the leftover trunkline except just a little tape of course with humidity and condensation.. crazy glad we go it fixed...
You actually do have to tape the outside jacket, not just half a container of mastic LOL
mastic isn't everything, high quality duct tape is as effective as mastic if not better
Yup spray glue duct tape. Gotta have metal tape too,in the right spots. Like metal on metal... Yeah tho you dont even need to go crazy with the tape 3 layers. Squeegee real good. Mastic is still good matter fact needed for shit to be proper.. for Y connections and the unit connection atleast.. anyway
Putting pookie on the collar before putting the duct on? That’s nuts lmao
People design homes Wrong.
The heat and air units should have their own room downstairs in the main house.
The units should have enough room to work on all sides.
Returns should be at floor level for filter changes.
No access and difficulty breeds neglect and shorty installations in my opinion.
Attics need a good walk board system throughout with plenty of lighting and some receptacles for maintenance work and inspections for various issues.
My wife was a in a wheelchair and when we built a house they wanted to put units in the attic and returns in the ceiling.
The units are in the center of the house and have their own room.
Returns are on floor level in the hall ways on two sides of the house, easy access for filter changes.
Like I told them, if I die ,she needs to be able to change filters .
I also told them in our hot georgia summers the last place I want to be is in the attic and I wouldn't expect an ac guy to spend enough time to do a good job in some cases.
140 degrees is not a friendly environment.
Think f the people who have to maintain the plumbing and heat and air systems.
Why not replace that with a duct lined metal box or metal trunk assuming your prolly in Florida or Texas where humidity is a big issue so you use duct board but it’s trash. And so did the end after y’all mastic it like preschool kids painting
Rip all that out and get a metal duct
the tape will eventually get soggy in a hot attic.
I learned nothing here
He don't know what he's he's doing it the cheap way for him save him a lot of money
air handlers in the addict is a dumb move period.
yet installers don't care.. they just want that money.
Looks like a 5 year old applied that mastic- HORRIBLE QUALITY OF WORK
get to the point dayum!