BMW E90 E60 N52 N54 P0012 P0015 Fix Rough Idle And Surging Power MUST WATCH !!!
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BMW N51 N52 N53 N54 N55 P0012 P0015 Fix Rough Idle And Surging Power MUST WATCH !!!
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Thank you so much for this video. I replaced the intake cam sensor. That wasn’t it. I had a code for missing cylinders and an oil leak from the valve cover gasket. So I set out to change the valve cover gasket, VVT sensor, plugs and coil packs. Got it all back together and same issue, just like yours. Rough idle and surging idle and would sometimes die at a stop. This came on all of a sudden. Then I saw your video of cleaning the two VANOS cylinders. So I did. The car runs great. Smooth idle with good acceleration and no lag. Thank you for this video it was awesome.
Had the P0012 and the P0015 faults after I changed the valve cover gasket. Watched this video, had the vanos cables swapped. Swapped 'em back and no issues! Thanks man! 07 335 N54 here.
Good to hear thanks for watching
I used and watched this video like 6 or 7 times and I cleaned both vanos solenoids in my 2009 bmw 328i. I did finally get it done. It took me a lot more time than you to do it because of my lack of proper tools and my experience working on vehicles. I did it though and just plugged them back in. Fingers 🤞 that it fixed my issue. About to start her up now. 😂
Showing the symptoms beforehand would also be helpful. Great after work though. Thanks for the video.
You hit the nail on the head there, BMW's are not the problem, it's the clowns who do not know how to fix them.
That logic don't make sense. Anyone can say that with just about every car brand and model or with anything else for that matter.
@@orangecounty7144 Because every car has their own little problems.
Huge thank-you 2006 BMW X3 m same symptoms cleaned them out,idle is perfect and it feels like it has more power than brand new then when I got it. It even starts up super quick no problems
2007 523i. A quick cleanup on both valves and problem solved, engine idles now smoothly, much better that before and no more fault code, for now anyways. Thanks for the video
Thank you!
Hey Nathan bought a 07 x3 with n52 that was doing same thing. Slow to come on the throttle and rough idle at stop light. Saw this vid and figured it's an easy job for me and boom. Drives like a different car now. Now have a responsive throttle and smooth idle. If prob returns, I will replace them. MPG may be better too. Thanks for great vid. - Dave
If you have P0012, P0015, or P1554 (all related to camshaft/vanos), change your oil and filter first before trying anything else. Make sure your oil level is correct. Low/bad oil can cause these to trip very easily!
I have all of them what should I do first. Thanks
@@okanaslan6941 change oil and filter as he said.
Use OE filter
This is not true because I replaced everything and the p0012 code is still there
@@latishalegardy8510 There are a couple other possibilities friend.🧐
I changed my oil , then it’s started having this issues
Can't thank you enough for posting these BMW video's...Thanks
Thank you for watching
Legend status achieved . Been a mechanic 7 years and this was the first time i came across this problem. looked up online and came across this vid... Going the the shop shortly to give'er a try ill let u know!
It's been a year now, and we're still waiting for you to let us know?
@User968 Come back next year
I’m waiting too ..
Maybe covid got him 🤔
Too bad we coulda rlly used the advice. Check back next year!
still waiting
Fantastic tip. I own a E91 325i, after oil and filter change rpm jumped between 1100 and 550 and finally died. I did what you advised and it worked perfectly. Magic! Thank you very much! I’m your new subscriber 👌💨
What finally died?
@@DeoryDiditbeaver. This issue shows how small things can cause a major problem but best solution is prevention: as simple as keeping all the filters clean, hoses and connectors in tact before having to spend big $$$
Totally helped me fix my car brother thank u so much!! Thousands saved!
Your guides are the best. Always informative. Thank you for helping the community save money. Keep up the great work.
Great tip on where the connectors go. 3:18 in the vid. I had them swapped >
I have 06 325i with 150k miles and the check engine light on. Code P0012. Intake vannos solenoid. But, took both vanos solenoids out like you said and cleaned them. Boom. Went to get a smog test today and passed. If I could buy you a beer I would. Thanks for the video dude much appreciated!!
i have the same car like you and my car starts and kinda idle idk my dad changed everything already like new sparks plug , new sets of coils , change air filter , oil filter , new oil , new fuze , new starter , new battery but car still the same . should we try doing this ?
@@tonymollyhawj1389 yessss of course.. did it work?
I had the same codes and on the inside of the oil filter cap the cartridge was missing, that goes inside of the oil filter and I had to buy a new oil filter cap. That fixed my issue.
I had the same problem and I found out my oil filter cage was missing so i installed a new one and it fixed it
the idle control valve can cause similar symptoms, it can be taken off n sprayd with carb cleaner n some q tips n place it back in n work like a champ
Thank you for the video! After watching and doing the work on my car I could tell an obvious difference in the driving performance. I didn’t clear any codes so idk if that is the fix needed to clear my light. It’s saying I still need to change the cam sensor. But thank you!
Thank you, champ!
Same issue, I had a sticky original 325k km vanos, basked it in carb cleaner like you did, the first two starts were naturally "rough", a few gentle revs to get the oil flowing, third start, went mint
I replaced solenoids, still throwing code.
Finally I changed the oil, problem solved!
It's possible that the valves were getting blocked due to the contaminated oil.
Was the idle rough? I just installed a new pair and it seems to Jolt.
thnxs for that comment worth gold;)
What kind of oil
2008 N51 328xi. I've been experiencing similar symptoms you described about the slightly rough cold idle and the delayed throttle response. No issues on the highway and no drastic surges in engine speeds during idling. Car sat for two years so I think stuff gummed up inside. I've done multiple oil changes, went through two tanks of new gas and a bottle of Techron. New plugs and Delphi coils.
Scanned it with INPA using the Rough Running and Lamda Probe Voltage screen and the values fluctuate a lot but they're within the green. Also the cylinders are different from each other - my understanding is they should be close to each other on a healthy engine. The throttle response has gotten better the more I drive it. I think also resetting the oil life on the transmission and transfer case using ISTA has made a performance improvement. I'm gonna try cleaning the VANOS valves as the fact that the car hasn't been driven in a long time could explain this behavior.
Will update once I get it done.
???
Any update ? what is this reset oil life ? Can you do this in INPA ?
"Try changing the solenoids"
~Tom Cruise, War of the World~
"Solenoid". There's only one on the starter. That is what he was talking about in the movie.
@@DaytonCarCare lol
DaytonCarCare there’s a solenoid for intake, and one for exhaust
Nice vid and fix. Would have been pretty interesting to see the short term and long-term fuel trims before and after on this to possibly rule out a failing or faulty reporting MAF sensor.
In any repair and diagnosis, one must check the engune oil leve, the battery voltage and the charging system operation within specification
If you put it on inpa you can see whether the cams are operating properly, while it's running. You should replace those seals and change the oil while you're at it. Makes a world of difference when these things are operating properly.
What is inpa?
The parts cannon is main stralers' favourite tool 🤣
Thanks for sharing. Easy to follow and saved me mucho dinero $$$
To my knowledge these cars were turned down when they were manufactured to pass emissions in the states after long long hours of scanning and troubleshooting I decided to replace everything after that still had problems. I took it to a buddy's shop wala I updated software/firmware whatever just updated everything and problem has no returned hope this helps.
How did he updated it??
What I do about every 30k is clean these solenoids and switch them around. There’s a guy on e90 post who has over 300k on his e90 and swears by this...
Shane Sexton How do you clean them?
search on youtube "how to clean solenoids e90"
Tried to clean and switch and no difference, replaced the vanos and ran better.
Every 100,000 miles they should be replaced. Bmw electrical needs oem sensors
Is it safe to switch them around ?
Nathan if you have installed LED bulbs anywhere on BMW, you can use NCS EXPERT to disable cold and warm check on those places so you will not get that annoying warning on dashboard. On my E53 N62 I did that in LMA module. Just read it out and in Notepad you should change:
Parking Lights / DRL Cold Check Left : AUSG_04_POL_L_KALT_UEBERW_AKTIV
Parking Lights / DRL Cold Check Right : AUSG_05_POL_R_KALT_UEBERW_AKTIV
Parking Lights / DRL Warm Check Left : AUSG_04_POL_L_WARM_UEBERW_AKTIV
Parking Lights / DRL Warm Check Righ : AUSG_05_POL_R_WARM_UEBERW_AKTIV
to NICHT_AKTIV and upload it to module.
So you can use LED bulbs for Angel Eyes without error on your dash, also you dont have to put those resistors which are heating inside the headlight.
Also for other bulbs replaced with LEDs.:
;Check Control parameters
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_AL_L low beam left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_AL_R low beam right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L turn signal rear left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R turn signal rear right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_V_L turn signal front left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_V_R turn signal front right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_Z_L turn signal sidemarker left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_Z_R turn signal sidemarker right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BL_L brake light left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BL_M_1 brake light middle / center
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BL_R brake light right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_FL_L high beam left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_FL_R high beam right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_KZL_L license plate light left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_KZL_R license plate light right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSL_L fog light rear left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSL_R fog light rear right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSW_L fog light front left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSW_R fog light front right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_RFS_L reverse light left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_RFS_R reverse light right
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_SL_V_L parking light front left
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_SL_V_R parking light front right
FEHLERMELD_CC_BLK_V_L_2 turn signal front left 2
FEHLERMELD_CC_BLK_V_R_2 turn signal front right 2
FEHLERMELD_CC_RL_BL_1_L tail light 1 left
FEHLERMELD_CC_RL_BL_1_R tail light 1 right
FEHLERMELD_CC_RL_BL_2_L tail light 2 left
FEHLERMELD_CC_RL_BL_2_R tail light 2 right
;Cold Monitoring parameters
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_AL_L low beam left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_AL_R low beam right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L turn signal rear left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R turn signal rear right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_L turn signal front left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_R turn signal front right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_Z_L turn signal sidemarker left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_Z_R turn signal sidemarker right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BL_L brake light left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BL_M_1 brake light middle / center
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BL_R brake light right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_FL_L high beam left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_FL_R high beam right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL_L license plate light left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL_R license plate light right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSL_L fog light rear left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSL_R fog light rear right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_L fog light front left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_R fog light front right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_RFS_L reverse light left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_RFS_R reverse light right
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V_L parking light front left
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V_R parking light front right
KALTUEBERW_BLK_V_L_2 turn signal front left 2
KALTUEBERW_BLK_V_R_2 turn signal front right 2
KALTUEBERW_RL_BL_1_L tail light 1 left
KALTUEBERW_RL_BL_1_R tail light 1 right
KALTUEBERW_RL_BL_2_L tail light 2 left
KALTUEBERW_RL_BL_2_R tail light 2 right
;Hot Monitoring parameters
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_AL_L low beam left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_AL_R low beam right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L turn signal rear left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R turn signal rear right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_L turn signal front left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_R turn signal front right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_Z_L turn signal sidemarker left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_Z_R turn signal sidemarker right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BL_L brake light left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BL_M_1 brake light middle / center
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BL_R brake light right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_FL_L high beam left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_FL_R high beam right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_KZL_L license plate light left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_KZL_R license plate light right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSL_L fog light rear left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSL_R fog light rear right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_L fog light front left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_R fog light front right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_RFS_L reverse light left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_RFS_R reverse light right
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V_L parking light front left
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V_R parking light front right
WARMUEBERW_BLK_V_L_2 turn signal front left 2
WARMUEBERW_BLK_V_R_2 turn signal front right 2
WARMUEBERW_RL_BL_1_L tail light 1 left
WARMUEBERW_RL_BL_1_R tail light 1 right
WARMUEBERW_RL_BL_2_L tail light 2 left
WARMUEBERW_RL_BL_2_R tail light 2 right
My LED Angel eye bulbs
( with error decoders) crashed my FRM module, which was probably overwhelmed by all the error counts
Will try this later
thanks for sharing
I did the same on a 05 523i e60. But i took elec wires and test them on the battery.. So immediately i can tell top solenoid was fine and operating normal. You can hear the solenoid ticking. The lower one not good, although it tries to work you can tell its not operating good. So i cleaned it with break cleaner and immediately you can hear working again. So ok, fault codes were gone and the engine ran great.. But, the next morning that lower solenoid were giving me trouble again. After replacing him alone the car is fixed. Cleaning is temporary you have to replace them
Daniel Theron what codes were you getting?
Probably wouldn't hurt to change the oil too? There's a reason why those solenoid valves are sticking or plugging up.
Also there is a guy on here from UK that update has worked for him as well. But still check all sensors to make sure they wornt damaged before update and also complete all recalls before doing updates.
Hey, a huge thank you for this video! I have been dealing with the same problem on my 2010 X5, but not any more. You are the only person that seems to be down to earth with an easy cheap fix/troubleshooting (and no b/s talk). I was able to follow your video while doing an oil change. I finished cleaning and reinstalling before the oil finished draining! Thanks man!
use a 12v power source and actuate the unit several times while spraying cleaner
Great, it is so helpful, I did it in the morning and it worked. The only thing not clear to me is what to do with the oil in the main part. Isnt the vanos going to be the same again when we put it back in there? As I could not clean the inside, I am expecting to have same issue?
I'm having the same exact issue with my 2011 X3 xDrive35i I will definitely check this tomorrow and clean them and see if it works
Great job man. I have not fixed my car yet but I will try. Thx
Man, I felt his pain as he started speaking.
Thank you for the info but do you think a bad o2 sensor can also do that surg and funky idle, downstream o2?
First big mistake, you need to hook 12v up to the solenoids whilst you clean them. the way you did it they were not fully cleaned out. second mistake, if they are chinese ones throw them straight in the bin.
Haven’t had a oil change yet but clean my vanos and it ran perfect for 30 mins do you think there going bad or I just need a oil change
Hey Nathan I removed my selenoids to clean them but did not see that seal in the middle , on any of them ....
Lmaoooo
Had p0012, i already changed spark plugs, coils, valve cover gasket, cmp sensor, and my 325 had a Recall for Vanos replacement. And still get the p0012 I cleaned vanos solenoid and vanos filter maybe not enough cleaned but any other suggestions? Lost of power and rough idle at star then has a steady idle
I don't know if he ran the car earlier and it was warm but when you start a car like this it doesn't just run off of the whole system for the first 30 seconds to 1 min. It uses a program from the computer initially then cuts over the all the sensors and things to make it run more efficiently. So he needs to wait until it changes over to the secondary idle before he sees anything change or not.
The vanos is mechanical and adjusts cam timing within 2-3 seconds of engine start even though the ECU is still operating in open loop until the O2 sensors warm up. Only the fuel adaptations is not adjusted until ECU is in closed loop.
@@arnolduk123 Good point. I stand corrected. LOL.
Thank you!! My engine is now more responsive and idles like a good, i Will have to see if it comes back and in that case buy new ones
You would not believe the problems you would have with a week battery . the engine races and never idles down . the fan sometimes don't work on high until you drive it for an hour... And then if you get a battery that is 90 or 80% brand new you still have problems...
Do those o-rings have to be in the groove? Can you slide the o-ring up against the plastic ring?
I just replaced mine with a new pair but the idle is rough any idea why?
Thank You so much my car is doing the same thing
DAMN COMMERCIALS RUclips!!!!!!!!!!
Turn the fan on and the headlights with the air conditioner and watch how that thing starts racing
My shit cutting off everywhere I think battery is bad when it cuts off I can usually crank it back but today had to get a jump . Imma change these again and the cranksensor understated
Great video. But I have a quick question! On my 011 328i xdrive when replacing the vano do I have to do some type of reprogramming or adjustment. Or its just a plug and play selenoide? Any answers will be well appreciated.
@Jose Hernandez thank you .
They said it was my vanos, still getting code, and I only used bosch
It can also be the one way anti-drain valves.
Thank you will clean and see if this sorts out my issue👍
T40 LONG TORX BIT CLEAN AREA JUST ABOVE THE COMPRESSOR HOSE SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT NEED TO SLIGHTLY TWEEK THE HIGH SIDE ALUMINUM A/C LINE TO GET CLEAR SHOT TO AREA TO GET TOOL IN THEY ARE ABOVE AND BELOW EACH OTHER IN THE SPACE JUST IN FRONT OF THE NUMBER 1 EXHAUST PORT MANIFOLD
When it’s over retarded timing the sensors by the vanos was not properly installed. It’s a common problem to get the confused. That’s why when you plugged it back in after u replaced the vanos the code went away. Save Thang happened to me but I marked my sensors and fixed it right away!
hello
I have a 2000 BMW 528i e39, the EML light comes on, I fixed the PS valve on top of the trottle, and in the spider it has a diesel valve that is not a trottle.
nothing!!! how to fix that code
thank you
Also if this would have not fixed it you might have a crank sensor problem. When I got my car after standing for a while it had rough idle and long starts, apparently the rats ate threw my crank sensor wire near the starter so I fixed the wiring harness and it runes good now
".. apparently the rats ..."
talking as if we all have a rat problem ...
I have a bmw e90 and l recently did my service changed oil, oil filter, plugs and air filter but l am still having a problem its consuming a lot of fuels 14L/100 and there's white smoke at the exhaust pipe and l smell unburnt feul also with a rough idle any idea what the problem is.
My belt shredded to pieces and I believe it may have gone into the engine will this code pop up ?
I’ve got the same code, haven’t replaced anything but I bench tested the solenoids, they work fine. Cleaned the solenoids up and put them back in, didn’t fix anything. I did an oil change afterwards and it was blackk said the last service was 2020 so would it be good to start with cleaning the solenoids again? I was gonna test the cam sensors too
yep that sounds right , if the solenoids were leaving the timing advanced on the next start up the extra advance and the early combustion before tdc would cause the slow cranking and the abrupt stop of crankshaft rotation when the crank tries to turn backwards , that would also triggers dtcs , misfires-backfires, cas sensor sync, ,
makes you wonder whether manufactures are over complicating things , I know the development of bigger and faster processors in ecu's with more feedback channels to the ecu and this has resulted in more efficient, smoother running engines with more horsepower and torque and at the same time the increase in data feedback to the ecu has not improved the diagnostics ability to pin point faults, the older systems were more straight forward .
when a mazda 3/6 throws a cam angle sensor code when mechanical failure of a friction washer cause the crankshaft sprocket to move is due to poorly coded firmware and flaws in the designs of keyless sprockets that were implemented to save production costs , that end up costing the customer money and independent mechanics time and money.
with all the telemetry data available at the ecu these days surely the software engineers could create a system with a on board user interface that is not as vague and draws a more complete picture, it looks like the dealership service departments need it.
some scan tools work better than others and that probably due to being able to connect with the proper protocol in order to read the data but at the same time they can only work as good as the obd system that they connect to provided that the tool has no errors in reading the data, i have experienced different results using different tools on the same vehicle.
I have seem the merc and BMW scan tools that the dealers use, it was software on a laptop and it was pretty elaborate
may I ask how much the scan tool was, because i have searched and found the same ones online but I see some priced at $130 and other prices at $400.
How is it possible for the crank rotate backwards when starting the engine ? I can only see that possible by starting the vehicle in reverse with the clutch out. Who would do that :)
@@arnolduk123 If you have some tuning experience ? Or Have ever set up an aftermarket Ecu and cranked an engine for the initial start with to much ignition advance
Normally the fire is lit some crankshaft degrees before tdc and the crank has come over to where the force of the piston pushing down and the crank is past Tdc causing the crankshaft to rotate in the right direction that advance Is for the delay in combustion
If you light the fire to early the piston is still on it’s way up and not past rev and the crank hasn’t come over. The piston will push the crank back in the direction it came from. You will notice this as an abrupt licking or even backwards motions when you crank and engine with to much ignition advance
The engine doesn’t actually start up and run backwards
Hence the term trying to run backwards
It’s a term tuners use to say to much ignition advance at cranking
@@arnolduk123 you obviously have no experience with dyno tuning vehicles and you’re not familiar with the terminology. Don’t be so quick to try and make people look silly
Did you even stop and try to think about how what I said can be mechanically possible ? No of course not
Coz you thought you had me
Buddy I’ve been tuning cars for 15 years
Built an r33 gtr skyline that made 630kws at the rear treads and an evo lancer that made 403kws. Never at any stage we’re you going to stump me or did you have me got with your amateurish comment and as it turns out the reverse gear push start is not the only way an engine will TRY to run backwards when cranking Read the words carefully. Don’t be so quick to try and prove. You know everything
what direction would you be pushing the car when you use reverse to start it
This is one of the stupidest things I have also ever heard and like you said why would anyone do that ? Why would you even try and explain the only way you think it’s possible. Is it because you think that were are all so stupid and only you can figure that out ?
But there is no point to what you are trying to say. You want to avoid having that issue with slow cranking or lock up and backwards motion at cranking
@@arnolduk123 but I am glad you used the words “I can’t see how” instead of “it’s not possible for” the crankshaft to rotate backwards during cranking just encase I had the answer
@@strajkovski8767 Im just talking about your average joe who has an idle problem not someone who uses modded ecu's and dynos their engine everyday. Of course anything is possible with aftermarket mods. I'm familar with advance/retard timing but the starter motor rotates the crank forward and not backwards. So you're talking about the power stroke not the crankshaft. If you worded it correctly then I may have understood you. I'm not trying to make you look stupid.
Stankin Walmart LOL last night I went to Walmart perfectly fine come back out now it's running rough but no check engine lights what the heck is going on any information would be highly appreciated thank you
Good insight thanks a bunch man!!
I may try taking mine out and cleaning it. Thanks
How do you register a new battery for a bmw 528i? Or do you even have too ????
Mine is doing the same thing with when you hit the gas it’s like a power band
what did the problem end up being?!
Hello ,y have the same eror kep showing and the engine knock when warm ..
I had a code for the B camshaft bank one I cleaned both vanos solenoids now the car runs worst and idles up and down! Light came on for P052 and misfire codes. Any guess what it could be? The connectors are plugged in the right vanos
I did all that and I still have the same problem
Also change oil too first simple steps first;)
Excellent video 👍
Nathan thanks for your videos. I bought a E46 M3 for my daily driver. How hard is it to complete a service 2 for my 90k miles? Should I try to check the Vanos myself? I'm good for basic maintenance but not sure if the Vanos is too involved. I just changed my alternator but that seems simple in comparison. Thanks.
Super easy
What was brand of the scanner tool?
Hello Nathan, is that tool able to code a fuel module and register a new battery?
You've described all the symptoms of a bad exhaust cam position sensor
The Vanos solenoids was the problem
Hey I think your video is going to help me out a lot thanks
Thanks again Nathan.
Yes, upper - intake; lower - exhaust.
And please change your synthetic oil every 7500 to 12,000 miles using a premium-grade filter for synthetic oil. No K&N!
Why not k&n?
@@austinmars4294 oil clogs and attracts more dirt
So I shouldn’t get a new once and replace them? Just clean them and should work?
I’m not good at this, but I got the code 12 as well on my x5 2010, I’m not sure how to now if they need to be replaced
CLEAN THE 2 VANOS SCREENS IN THE CYLINDER HEAD SLUDGE BUILD UP CAUSE THE P0012/P0015
I change the valve cover gasket on my 2008 e90 but now I have misfire on cylinder 3-4 no spark what so ever! I swapped the ignition coils around but problem continue. Any help in pinchi pointing out the problem?
I C you got oil in your cylinders dry it out , did you replace your cylinder gaskets with the vcg? You should if you didnt
Did you ever find your problem
I was getting a camshaft intakr code p0010 change both cam position sensors code still shows. Swapped vanos after cleaning two times intake/top 2 exhaust/lower and threw a p0013. so i ordered only one new solenoid after market since i heard they work fine and seems like only one is bad after swapping confirmed. Now the car is throwing p054b than a p0015.
Are these the same sensors, why was there a red mark on one of them?
Do you buy both of the same sensors or are they both different sensors??
I don't have a check engine light but I do have a surge problem especially sometimes in reverse or forward when starting the car now it's at the stop sign so even if I don't have a check engine light can I still clean this
Is there anything besides the vanos and mass air that i should clean to stop that surging? My 2010 528i only does it when im stopped. Thanks for the knowledge.
Jeff Rankin did you every figure out ur problem I have the same problem
@@4ktslime195 yes. the #4 coil pack went out, coupled with a pully sticking
Vanos filters
Have you fixed this issue where it stalls and it doesn’t respond when you hit the gas
Last time that happened to me it was my transmission. Got it replaced for 2500.
Same problem here did you fix it yet ? What was it for you ?
I have a 2008 X3 3.0SI with the N52 with 107,000 miles on it.
Shortly after purchasing it I got those two codes. After searching everyone said it was the vanos solenoids. So I replaced both of those with OEM parts.
A week later the codes came back. I bought another vanos solenoid thinking maybe I got 2 bad ones. I replaced just one of them. The codes came back shortly after and it again was both intake and exhaust at the same time.
I took a shot in the dark and replaced the vanos check valves, the codes still came back.
Then I replaced the camshaft position sensors thinking maybe they were just broken. The codes still came back.
When the codes do come back it is usually just after startup and I can feel the engine surge a bit, and then it throws the codes.
Curiously every single time it throws the codes it is both intake and exhaust at the same time.
I think it might be the vanos actuator motor?
To summarize I've replaced:
Both vanos solenoids
Both camshaft position sensors
Both Vanos check valves
Either way I want to stop throwing parts at it in hopes it will fix the problem.
Any idea.
Please I need you help I know you own bmw.
Thank you for you time.
Im having the same issues I replaced both solenoids and crankshaft and camshaft sensors still getting p0012 and p0015 codes it's 2008 528i bmw. I will note all this happen after a delayed oil change smh.
Trying getting a firmware update. If that doesn't work, your cam bearing ledges might be worn. That usually means a new head.
The firmware update has been working for people though.
Did you clean your vanos filters? There is a video called "non return vanos filters". The guy pulls the filters out, cleans them and it fixes the problem.
@@MrTruthAddict Braxton European came up with worn or damaged crankshaft gears that needed to be replaced also with some fluids changes like trans and coolant but it came up to 2500$
@@eazycontent1830 they're lying to you. Crankshaft gear? Find another mechanic. This guy is trying to rip you off. It's probably your cam bearing ledges that are worn out
Hey there how do I get in touch with you I have check engine question about my 02 745li
Hey Nathan I own a e65 having a rough idle and surging power took it to mechanic showing code 27bc giving misfire mechanic says something about the camshaft any help ?
hello
i have a BMW E91 320i 2006 model and the last 1 year i have always the fault code 2A70. and only this code.
i delete it but it comes again.
i change battery,coils,spark plugs.still the same.
i have no power loss ( i thing ) but increase fuel consumption.
Is mass air flow cleaner ok to use ?
my bmw E90 turns on everything comes on fine but rpms don’t rev past 1000 the tac jumps up and down when it’s sitting, plugged in my scanner and it threw a code for valvetronic motor. car is in limp mode, what could be the problem?
Cleaned my Vanos on my 07 X5 3.0, 2 years ago and never got the code again.