BMW VANOS Symptoms & How to Test and Clean VANOS Solenoids
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- Опубликовано: 20 мар 2021
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If your BMW is suffering from loss of low-end torque or power in high revs, slow response or inconsistent idle or even poor fuel economy, you may have a bad or failing VANOS solenoid. Today I look into the symptoms of a bad BMW VANOS solenoid such as long cranking or rough idle on start up. I then show you how to test and clean those solenoids to make sure they are ready for many more miles in your BMW. This works on my different engines, such as the N52, N55, N62, N73 and even older engines like N54, S54, M54 and M52 engines. Basically, any BMW engine that has a VANOS system should behave about the same.
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Really well explained. Great upload thanks 🙏🏻👍
Took mine out at 110K miles and they still look clean is heck.
Thanks so much for passing on this info, I had the problem occur out of the blue and the car was almost undriveable, once I watched your video I removed & tested both solenoids, the ohms readings were perfect but when I powered them the Inlet sparked like a direct short when connecting the positive wire but then the solenoid opened & closed, I thought maybe it could be the issue so refitted it and wham problem solved! just need to get the check engine light reset but have driven for a long drive with no further issues, Cheers.
Mine is 8 and below so I assume it’s bad
My is 7.6 is Bad???
Thanks for a clear explanation of the testing and cleaning. On my BMW E90 N43 318i 4-cylinder, I have been chasing rough idles and misfires, and have replaced spark plugs, coils, low pressure fuel sensor and NOX sensor with some temporary improvements over past year. I recently did an oil and filter change with my regular Liqui Moly.
With all other codes now clear. last week my basic OBD2 tool indicates a cylinder 3 misfire and injector fault, with very rough idle, stall and engine light. Could this fault be related to faulty vanos solenoids rather than an injector?
Thanks for any experience you can share.
I have an 08 X5 4.8L, recently faced an issue with the Exhaust Cam on bank 2. Had the code for a dead sensor, installed new sensor, now my scan tool is reading the cam fine but the exhaust cam bank two is not adjusting, the vanos on exhaust only is not functioning. My scan tool is a Launch X431V+, allows me to read the vanos system live and watch it adjust so I know the Bank 2 exhaust vanos solenoid is not working. Took it out today, cleaned it, tested it with 12V and clearly could see the solenoid working but I cleaned it inside a small clear plastic bucket. Along with the oil I washed out there was some small particles, dirt, carbon build up??? Who knows but after cleaning with Carb Clean I got to thinking this unit has moving parts inside with lots of friction. I did not think it was a good idea to install this part dry after cleaning with carb clean. I sprayed it out again using WD 40 which is not much of a lubricant but much better than carb clean, it also helps clean, wish I had used it from the start. After WD40 I oiled the plunger and spring area inside and reinstalled. On first start up I still had zero cam movement on the exhaust, I was thinking I failed but then after a couple minutes it started adjusting perfectly, I graphed both the bank 1 and bank 2 and watched them side by side. They now react identically. No check engine light and engine sounds and runs great again. Thanks for planting the seed that this repair could work.
I have new Febi solenoids but the intermitent slow response is still present. The actual vanos is the culprit in my case.
N62b48b By me eerly revving very vast now is slow. What you think about that msube selenoid bu i have no error code.
I put it on ohms (horse shoe) emblem and i touch the clips to the solenoid and it doesn’t do anything. It just stays in “0.L”
Qstion. What can u soak them in
Hello, I have a 325i 2010 N53 slows down unstable and shakes when cold, it lasts 1 minute and afterward the car runs very well. When she does that I accelerate slightly and that prevents the shaking and slows it down unstable, do you have any idea, said the vanos? No smoke, no smell of gasoline. New spark plug and coil. I'm French, sorry for the translation.
good guy
Mine have 12.5 ohms consistenly, are they bad or good?
So what if the ohm is at 27 but wen I pass current to the solenoid it still activates
What about the shake test
Is that a technical term slowy
Very nice. Do you recommend replacing the o-rings before you reinstall them?
It’s recommended by BMW. Mine have been fine since the video.
I keep getting a 2A87 code in the exhaust vanos. The car would always go into limp mode after doing a pull. I took both solenoids out, cleaned them and swapped them to see if the code migrates. After doing that, the code came back in the exhaust vanos again the same day but it took hours to come back after doing pulls all day. Do you think these might be my issue?
If the code didn't move, it sounds like you have another issue. I wouldn't know what it is, but I'd make sure the timing didn't skip or that you have a cracked or broken timing chain guide to start with.
@@SimpleCarGuy Im taking it to my mechanic this week. My suspicion is a camshaft gear, I’ve heard that the bolts on those strip or shear off.
@@SimpleCarGuy 👍thanks Dang it now I’m on RUclips I need to go to bed this is crazy
What was the issue ?
These solenoids should be tested with a PWM box, giving them 12V straight will just open them fully. How they work in the car is they open variably, they don't open fully all the time
Well that may be correct but following this procedure fixed mine & I have now done around 10K since my issue & no further problem, I'm guessing opening them fully may push the valve past it's normal operating travel & clear a restriction or scale build up.
My selenoide is 7.6 is bad??
Hi. Its the same range for mini r56? I have 7,3 ohms
old comment but whatever
i think they are the same solenoids, if you have 2 solenoids compare both
Where are your mini Cooper videos?
Cleaning works only limited time. You will end up cleaning those all the time and it's much more advisable to just renew those immediately, because the price is quite low after all
Definitely, but this would be a good to test to see if that's the issue. If the problem with the engine goes away and comes back in a month or so, you know what to replace and access is easy.
You're right, but like Bimmer Fan mentioned, it's a good test to narrow down the issues.
You can use a little 9V battery from a smoke detector too.
I get 7.5 in both is this bad sign ?
Thats bad.. Vanod range 8-14 ohms
I’m gettin a P0012 code come up on my 2012 mini. Help????
same, did you figure it out?
What are the specific codes related to bad VANOS?
Mine is throwing 1519 and 1525 for bank 1. Just tested my solenoid with a 9v battery and it doesn't engage.
@@lorenhoward8178when you tested it with a 9v battery. Did you use normal copper wires for - and +
WHEN DID YOU CHANGE SOLENOIDS, DID YOU RESET WITH DIAGNOSIS? OR CAN WE NOT DO IT? I HAVE A BMW Z4 E89 23I
If you are having issues, you should reset the codes after swapping them around or cleaning or doing anything to troubleshoot. If you do not have any codes and just giving them a clean, you don't have to clear anything.
@@SimpleCarGuy if i don't have any error codes or yellow engine warning light, can i change them anyway without resetting? engine n52
Mine look clean.... but i had a small leak in the pcv membrane.... it caused me all sorts of problems.... but this thing was a weak point.
What sorts of problems did it cause you mate? Can you give me your symptoms because mine is acting up like frankenstein.. been driving me nuts for the past 6 months idk what to do to it anymore
@deadr0t the valve cover has a gasket inside it and not one you can just swap out. It started with just a few occasional codes. Running rich, misfire etc etc.
But when it got the worst when I'd first start it it would surge to a high rpm then down and almost die.... it would do it until it was warmed up.
But it caused it to run rich and also gave me an o2 sensor code
@MatthewGill-nv4tb i have the exact same issue. So it's the PCV Valve? That can be changed without changing the entire valve cover. It's a DIY. The PCV Valve itself cost about 15. But i checked if it pulls in air and it doesn't :|
@deadr0t no. There's an orange valve where the hose on top comes out. That connects to the turbo. You can't replace that one. You have to replace the valve cover....
@@deadr0t running it how you have for a while will foul the plugs too. But just clean em. I used an ultrasonic cleaner
The honda valve being far FAR superior. Just had to add that cuause the honda can go 200... the minis 86...
Lol it’s faster just to replace them because you will have to eventually anyways. Testing them is way too time consuming.