You should not apologize at all for “not getting us a better repair”. This was perfect. A lot of us novices might have jumped to conclusions and just thrown $100+ at a new starter and then, been disappointed when it didn’t fix the problem. This video showed the value of thorough test driven diagnosis. You started at one end of the system and worked your way to the other until you found the issue. This was worth every second for your audience.
The sad part is that because of where the problem is, a new starter may have "fixed" the problem (temporarily) No one would have ever known. (I try to never assume)
(exactly what happened for me after a $300 Starter from a "mechanic" --HE very well may have been the one that broke the lock-tang; the world may never know - 2017 Chev Silverado )
You, Sir, are a true GEM !! after almost a YEAR of intermittent No Crank-No Start and a head scratchin' "Mechanic" throwing parts at it (Multiple Relays; Starter; Fuses)(on my Dime!!! you point out DAY 1 - Mech 101 and I fix it myself !! Thank you so much for the tips, tricks and PURE diagnostic mind-set ! I'm Subscribed!
In video timestamp 6:45 it looks like there's green corrosion forming on the B+ starter solenoid terminal for the battery cable connection. In time, that corrosion will migrate up into the cable and cause voltage drop resulting in a future issue. If viewers see that stuff forming, take the time to remove the cable connection and clean it up. ((just my 2 cents))
Thanks for pointing that out, and yes... I agree. (He hasn't replaced the wire/plug yet, but when the temperatures improve) He said He'll have me splice it in and clean things up, then.
I wonder why the auto industry doesn't use an anti-corrisive metal on the starter power connecters? Like brass or even a stainless steel connecter? And stud that the power cable is connected to? Heck, might as well use stainless steel wire also? These auto makers want you to buy new parts for your vehicle on a frequency, like once a month, gotta perform the same ritual? Diagnose the problem, count your money in your wallet, then decide, ok, new starter? And no pizza for supper? Or get pizza, and leave the truck sitting in the driveway, till payday? Geez. And all these starters? Are remanufactured? Not a new part? Geez, again.
Thank you!! Firestone got us for 100.00s of dollars by misdiagnosed twice. Got us for a battery last year and an alternator last week. And it's the starter. "Loose wire"
Thank you for the video! My 2018 Silverado was doing the exact same thing. Pushed that connector back in and it instantly started, but having trouble keeping it connected. Does the grease help with the connection?
the grease just help keep the corrosion out. The plug has to actually "click" into place. if it can't, the 'pigtail' most likely needs to be replaced. (There SHOULD be a RED lock tab)
2017 hc 1500 Turns on after a few turns checked all fuses and relays for starter tab is broken on that same signal wire was going to replace whole starter but now gonna replace the wire
My 2014 Silverado does much the same but will start with a 2-3 turns of the key. Very intermittent and unpredictable. I just swapped the starter relay to see if that helps. Time will tell.
Good catch but none of the 2013 - 2018 Chevy or GMC 1500 No Crank that has come into our shop was that simple, I would suggest anyone with a charged battery that's having a no crank issue on these trucks thoroughly clean all of the ground and power contacts of the starter and battery.
question did this throw any codes ? cause mine did not. i have 2018 chevy tahoe, does the same thing.. every now and then.. it won't crank on the first try and I try again and it cranks.. do you think it could be the same issue on the video?
I have a sneaky suspicion that could be a module communication issue, if not a bad, thermally sensitive, connection in the circuit .. I believe I had P0617 and P0615, starter relay control circuit faults, but I probably caused those while checking the relay circuit. The trick is to put a small test light from battery positive to the relay output (relay removed) If that small amount of CURRENT illuminates the light, you have proven a good connection from the relay, down to the starter, through the starter solenoid, all the way to ground. Easy .Just MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you DO NOT put the power to any other connector in that socket! Doing so COULD smoke a computer module.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I am no mechanic, so I only understood half of what you said lol. I am a woman that is married to a non-mechanic man. So, I am trying my best to solve this issue. I took it to the dealer to clear a "power steering" update message on the front dash.. which they did. They also replaced the Fuel Pump Control Module. It was working fine for a while, I took it again because of the start issue.. it won't always crank on the first try...first example, one morning this rainy day.. it took 9 cranks and turned on the 10th crank... :( I took it again to the dealer... it cranked fine with them.. and they told me to clean my key .. that could be the issue. Which is not because I cleaned the key.. and still the same issue. What do you think?
You are essentially bypassing this wire. This wire's terminal is damaged because the locking clip that was supposed to secure it, was initially damaged. Start at the starter, and work your way back towards what DOES work.
I will, just like an aircraft start at the problem and work down the gang wire. I was just explaining what mine was doing , but love your videos as it's motivating me to get off my butt.. save money!!!
So my 2018 won't turn over at all unless boosted. Even the dash lights won't come on. I have a new battery, new alternator and empty answers from mechanics and even chev. Any ideas?
Look for voltage difference between the NEG battery post and Alternator CASE, WHILE attempting to crank. ANYTHING more than a volt or two, and you have the problem.
So my issue is i get a click no turnover, do this like 7 or 8 times and it starts. Justbhad the starter replaced and its the same issue. You think it's a ground issue? Going to check the connection in this video today
Either the starter is defective or you have a ground issue. EASY TEST: Connect a test light (Or volt meter/scope) to the battery NEGATIVE and the starter HOUSING. Try to crank. If the light lights (or shows ANY voltage) AT ALL... CLEAN your grounds!
My wife has a no crank no start issue with her 07 Caddilac CTS…when it was running the gauges would stop working (gas… temp ….odometer…etc) and the ac would stop working at the same time then after wouldn’t crank it start. Any clues what that could be?
It sounds like her alternator died. Voltage got too low causing weird electrical phenomenons, now the battery is too low to even think about cranking the engine.
@@sneelectronics8339 Without a scantool, start by making sure battery is fully charged. Turn ignition key to ON and make sure the check engine light is on (tells you the computer is alive) Check for security lights. Check fuses for power AND continuity. (Doesn't matter if a fuse is good, if no power gets to it...) Check function of ASD relay.... And with a wiring diagram, check all associated grounds!
My car won’t start on first crank but starts on second attempt. Been doing this since about a week ago. Just replaced battery yesterday and same outcome. Any ideas?
There is probably a weak connection on either the power or ground side connections. Check for voltage drop AT THE BATTERY POST (not clamp) and the STUD on the other end. Sometimes you'll find the connection between the actual wire and the clamp, is no good! The initial attempt heats and fuses the connection for the next attempt. Might even be a sticking starter solenoid.
If the starter ENGAGES AND TURNS THE MOTOR it is working properly. If it won't WITHOUT jumper cables, you have a bad connection at your battery, OR you have a discharged battery. If it DOES TURN THE MOTOR, but won't start, this means the problem is NOT the starter. IT COULD BE MANY OTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEMS. If your wording is correct, you have at least TWO issues.
I have a 14 Silverado and I just get a click and no power when turning car over and the power and all lights go off and on when key is Halfway turn my negative cable is really hot any idea for why this is happening ?
The HEAT means it's not carrying the current. MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT! Check ALL points of contact on BOTH battery cables. MANY vehicles have issues with the GROUND wire rusting at BOTH the frame and the engine block. (It is critical that these are clean!)
My truck won't start today. Its been intermittent for a few months. Some times it works perfectly, other days, i turn the key and get nothing but when i let go of the key a few seconds later it will start. Other times, it wii not start unless your turn the key back and forth a few times.
Because there are so many different possibilities, you have to narrow it down to "what's missing". Multi-meters, test lights, and sometimes even a scope, is REQUIRED to be able to find the source of a problem. Finding such an issue CAN be a very time consuming process, especially if accidentally disturbing a connection "fixes" the problem, for who knows how long. ("I fixed it, but don't know how" is the worst!)
My 2018 gmc sierra is having the issue no idea if it is a connector or a starter either way it is stressing me out! Will find out once I finish my set at work
you can run a by pass wire, with a headlight bulb inline for safety, directly from Battery + to the signal connector on the starter it'self. If that makes it crank (to this day it still startles me) then the starter is fine. Take that SAME wire, and move the battery connection to the negative - side. Now connect the other end at the starter, into the unplugged signal wire. Turn key to start. If light lights up, the connection and all wiring is correct. IF it does NOT, you MUST make sure that the relay is working. A quick test I often use is a headlight test lead from Battery + to the relay SOCKET where Pin87 sits. If for some reason that does work, I check again between Pin30 and ground to make sure constant power is there.
My truck (same year, same make, 1500 custom 5.3L) has the exact same "start-up" symptoms. No dash lights, no clicking, everything except the engine light on, is this the most likely/only scenario? Loose cables? I'm going to pull the wheel and cover tonight after work and see what I find but I've had just about every other aspect of the starter checked by my more electronically/mechanically brother and no issues
Check for main power at the starter. Check for power at the starter signal wire during crank attempt. (the bad connection here) Make sure there is NEAR ZERO volts between the starter case and the negative battery terminal DURING CRANK attempt. if you have power, signal, and good ground...replace the starter.
The big concern you had about the heat shield that it may short out by making contact possible fire why you didn't go the extra and fix what seen as a dangerous issue. You pushed and tucked it out of the way instead of fixing it. Why but you was concerned.
I wasn't about to break off the rusty fasteners to pull out a mangled heat shield that some bozo mangled. I DID push it out of the way as it was as you said, because it was extremely secure, but in a bad spot where is COULD chafe a wire. I identified the problem, and addressed it. I took i got it running again. Fixing that shield problem is a different job.
hook a lightbulb between that connection and ground... then see if ir illuminates when you move the key to "start" if it does, replace the starter. if it does not, work backwards and check the relay, etc.
Get rid of the crappy starter connector and cut the plug on the starter and put a ring terminal on the starter because those plugs break and the heat destroys them and you will never have to mess with that plug again
You should not apologize at all for “not getting us a better repair”. This was perfect. A lot of us novices might have jumped to conclusions and just thrown $100+ at a new starter and then, been disappointed when it didn’t fix the problem. This video showed the value of thorough test driven diagnosis. You started at one end of the system and worked your way to the other until you found the issue. This was worth every second for your audience.
The sad part is that because of where the problem is, a new starter may have "fixed" the problem (temporarily)
No one would have ever known. (I try to never assume)
(exactly what happened for me after a $300 Starter from a "mechanic" --HE very well may have been the one that broke the lock-tang; the world may never know - 2017 Chev Silverado )
Thank for educating us who still like to learn something new everyday 👍🏿
You, Sir, are a true GEM !! after almost a YEAR of intermittent No Crank-No Start and a head scratchin' "Mechanic" throwing parts at it (Multiple Relays; Starter; Fuses)(on my Dime!!! you point out DAY 1 - Mech 101 and I fix it myself !! Thank you so much for the tips, tricks and PURE diagnostic mind-set ! I'm Subscribed!
The funny thing is, he said he'd get the part and let me know.... he's still driving it with the broken lock on the lead....
Great job finally figuring out their problem... nothing like not having wheels when u got someplace to go
It seems to be a trend of shops being backed up, too.
In video timestamp 6:45 it looks like there's green corrosion forming on the B+ starter solenoid terminal for the battery cable connection. In time, that corrosion will migrate up into the cable and cause voltage drop resulting in a future issue. If viewers see that stuff forming, take the time to remove the cable connection and clean it up. ((just my 2 cents))
Thanks for pointing that out, and yes... I agree. (He hasn't replaced the wire/plug yet, but when the temperatures improve) He said He'll have me splice it in and clean things up, then.
I wonder why the auto industry doesn't use an anti-corrisive metal on the starter power connecters? Like brass or even a stainless steel connecter? And stud that the power cable is connected to? Heck, might as well use stainless steel wire also? These auto makers want you to buy new parts for your vehicle on a frequency, like once a month, gotta perform the same ritual? Diagnose the problem, count your money in your wallet, then decide, ok, new starter? And no pizza for supper? Or get pizza, and leave the truck sitting in the driveway, till payday? Geez. And all these starters? Are remanufactured? Not a new part? Geez, again.
Thank you!! Fixed the issue myself thanks to this video!
Glad it helped!
Thank you!! Firestone got us for 100.00s of dollars by misdiagnosed twice. Got us for a battery last year and an alternator last week. And it's the starter. "Loose wire"
Why are people so afraid of diagnostic checks?
Glad you got it resolved!!
Same thing happened to me clip broke, thanks man you’re the best.
Good connections mean everything when starting...
You can tell this guy knows what hes doing. Great video man.
Thank you!
I tried so hard not to break the tab yet it broke on me anyway 🤦♂️ need new plug. Thank you for putting the part number.
I'm glad it saved you time!
Thank you for the video! My 2018 Silverado was doing the exact same thing. Pushed that connector back in and it instantly started, but having trouble keeping it connected. Does the grease help with the connection?
the grease just help keep the corrosion out. The plug has to actually "click" into place. if it can't, the 'pigtail' most likely needs to be replaced.
(There SHOULD be a RED lock tab)
I replaced my starter with your help in this video and broke the connector 😅 any tips on replacing the connector?
Your a bad ass mechanic I did the exact thing to my truck and it started loose cable
GM makes a new pigtail for about $18
Great video, Thanks! I love the way you got the tire off, Brilliant!
I've been watching your channel.... LOVE IT!
(You are doing EXACTLY what I hope to be doing in the somewhat near future.....self training...
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Thanks!
2017 hc 1500
Turns on after a few turns checked all fuses and relays for starter tab is broken on that same signal wire was going to replace whole starter but now gonna replace the wire
As long as you can pass current through that wire, into that connector on the starter, securely, you should get it behaving in no time.
My 2014 Silverado does much the same but will start with a 2-3 turns of the key. Very intermittent and unpredictable. I just swapped the starter relay to see if that helps. Time will tell.
Intermittent stuff like that is often the effect of fretting connections.
Good catch but none of the 2013 - 2018 Chevy or GMC 1500 No Crank that has come into our shop was that simple, I would suggest anyone with a charged battery that's having a no crank issue on these trucks thoroughly clean all of the ground and power contacts of the starter and battery.
That would be common sense (endangered... I know)
👍. Only thing I would’ve done different is started the vehicle to be sure before reinstalling the wheel well.
Sorry I didn't show that in the video. (Starting it was how I re-verified the fault, before making an effort to temporarily reinforce the connection)
Thank you 🙏 I had the same problem.
were you able to clean up the connection or did you need to replace the lead and plug?
Very helpful thats what was wrong with mine!! Thank you!!!
Great to hear! Hope this saved you a small fortune, and the inconvenience of having it sit at a shop....
question did this throw any codes ? cause mine did not. i have 2018 chevy tahoe, does the same thing.. every now and then.. it won't crank on the first try and I try again and it cranks.. do you think it could be the same issue on the video?
I have a sneaky suspicion that could be a module communication issue, if not a bad, thermally sensitive, connection in the circuit .. I believe I had P0617 and P0615, starter relay control circuit faults, but I probably caused those while checking the relay circuit. The trick is to put a small test light from battery positive to the relay output (relay removed) If that small amount of CURRENT illuminates the light, you have proven a good connection from the relay, down to the starter, through the starter solenoid, all the way to ground. Easy .Just MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you DO NOT put the power to any other connector in that socket! Doing so COULD smoke a computer module.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I am no mechanic, so I only understood half of what you said lol. I am a woman that is married to a non-mechanic man. So, I am trying my best to solve this issue. I took it to the dealer to clear a "power steering" update message on the front dash.. which they did. They also replaced the Fuel Pump Control Module. It was working fine for a while, I took it again because of the start issue.. it won't always crank on the first try...first example, one morning this rainy day.. it took 9 cranks and turned on the 10th crank... :( I took it again to the dealer... it cranked fine with them.. and they told me to clean my key .. that could be the issue. Which is not because I cleaned the key.. and still the same issue. What do you think?
So I have the same problem but my starter clicks using jump wire from silanoid, does not click using key. Help
You are essentially bypassing this wire. This wire's terminal is damaged because the locking clip that was supposed to secure it, was initially damaged. Start at the starter, and work your way back towards what DOES work.
I will, just like an aircraft start at the problem and work down the gang wire. I was just explaining what mine was doing , but love your videos as it's motivating me to get off my butt.. save money!!!
So my 2018 won't turn over at all unless boosted. Even the dash lights won't come on. I have a new battery, new alternator and empty answers from mechanics and even chev. Any ideas?
Look for voltage difference between the NEG battery post and Alternator CASE, WHILE attempting to crank. ANYTHING more than a volt or two, and you have the problem.
So my issue is i get a click no turnover, do this like 7 or 8 times and it starts. Justbhad the starter replaced and its the same issue. You think it's a ground issue? Going to check the connection in this video today
Either the starter is defective or you have a ground issue. EASY TEST:
Connect a test light (Or volt meter/scope) to the battery NEGATIVE and the starter HOUSING. Try to crank. If the light lights (or shows ANY voltage) AT ALL... CLEAN your grounds!
My wife has a no crank no start issue with her 07 Caddilac CTS…when it was running the gauges would stop working (gas… temp ….odometer…etc) and the ac would stop working at the same time then after wouldn’t crank it start. Any clues what that could be?
First thing I would do is scan it. Then, depending on what I find, I'd look at the network wave forms. Is there an issue taking it down?
I don’t have your type of scanner tool
It sounds like her alternator died. Voltage got too low causing weird electrical phenomenons, now the battery is too low to even think about cranking the engine.
@@sneelectronics8339 Without a scantool, start by making sure battery is fully charged. Turn ignition key to ON and make sure the check engine light is on (tells you the computer is alive) Check for security lights. Check fuses for power AND continuity. (Doesn't matter if a fuse is good, if no power gets to it...) Check function of ASD relay....
And with a wiring diagram, check all associated grounds!
My car won’t start on first crank but starts on second attempt. Been doing this since about a week ago. Just replaced battery yesterday and same outcome. Any ideas?
There is probably a weak connection on either the power or ground side connections. Check for voltage drop AT THE BATTERY POST (not clamp) and the STUD on the other end. Sometimes you'll find the connection between the actual wire and the clamp, is no good!
The initial attempt heats and fuses the connection for the next attempt. Might even be a sticking starter solenoid.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair thank you sir, any feedback is appreciated. I will def’ look into this.
Currently going through no crank no start i jumped starter and it engages but no start any ideas?👀
If the starter ENGAGES AND TURNS THE MOTOR it is working properly. If it won't WITHOUT jumper cables, you have a bad connection at your battery, OR you have a discharged battery.
If it DOES TURN THE MOTOR, but won't start, this means the problem is NOT the starter. IT COULD BE MANY OTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEMS.
If your wording is correct, you have at least TWO issues.
I have a 14 Silverado and I just get a click and no power when turning car over and the power and all lights go off and on when key is Halfway turn my negative cable is really hot any idea for why this is happening ?
The HEAT means it's not carrying the current. MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT! Check ALL points of contact on BOTH battery cables.
MANY vehicles have issues with the GROUND wire rusting at BOTH the frame and the engine block. (It is critical that these are clean!)
Yooo! Literally all it needed was a little wiggle hahaha thank you
Glad it helped! Just make it SECURE! (Otherwise environmental exposure, heat, and vibration would knock it loose again)
My truck won't start today. Its been intermittent for a few months. Some times it works perfectly, other days, i turn the key and get nothing but when i let go of the key a few seconds later it will start. Other times, it wii not start unless your turn the key back and forth a few times.
Because there are so many different possibilities, you have to narrow it down to "what's missing". Multi-meters, test lights, and sometimes even a scope, is REQUIRED to be able to find the source of a problem. Finding such an issue CAN be a very time consuming process, especially if accidentally disturbing a connection "fixes" the problem, for who knows how long. ("I fixed it, but don't know how" is the worst!)
My 2018 gmc sierra is having the issue no idea if it is a connector or a starter either way it is stressing me out! Will find out once I finish my set at work
you can run a by pass wire, with a headlight bulb inline for safety, directly from Battery + to the signal connector on the starter it'self. If that makes it crank (to this day it still startles me) then the starter is fine. Take that SAME wire, and move the battery connection to the negative - side.
Now connect the other end at the starter, into the unplugged signal wire. Turn key to start. If light lights up, the connection and all wiring is correct. IF it does NOT, you MUST make sure that the relay is working. A quick test I often use is a headlight test lead from Battery + to the relay SOCKET where Pin87 sits. If for some reason that does work, I check again between Pin30 and ground to make sure constant power is there.
Had to sub I have a no start on truck intermittently I think it's the battery fuse box but it was a good fix.
Thanks for the sub! Hope this helped you out!
My truck (same year, same make, 1500 custom 5.3L) has the exact same "start-up" symptoms. No dash lights, no clicking, everything except the engine light on, is this the most likely/only scenario? Loose cables?
I'm going to pull the wheel and cover tonight after work and see what I find but I've had just about every other aspect of the starter checked by my more electronically/mechanically brother and no issues
Check for main power at the starter.
Check for power at the starter signal wire during crank attempt. (the bad connection here)
Make sure there is NEAR ZERO volts between the starter case and the negative battery terminal DURING CRANK attempt.
if you have power, signal, and good ground...replace the starter.
check your grounds chevy trucks are known for bad braided grounds , check them all .
The big concern you had about the heat shield that it may short out by making contact possible fire why you didn't go the extra and fix what seen as a dangerous issue. You pushed and tucked it out of the way instead of fixing it. Why but you was concerned.
I wasn't about to break off the rusty fasteners to pull out a mangled heat shield that some bozo mangled. I DID push it out of the way as it was as you said, because it was extremely secure, but in a bad spot where is COULD chafe a wire. I identified the problem, and addressed it. I took i got it running again. Fixing that shield problem is a different job.
Thanks for sharing God bless 🙏
Thank you for watching!
I love you man
Thank for watching! Got a wheel bearing coming up on this one, soon.
I do have an Escalade 2018 and I did replace
the connection go to the starter and still is not starting
hook a lightbulb between that connection and ground... then see if ir illuminates when you move the key to "start"
if it does, replace the starter. if it does not, work backwards and check the relay, etc.
But how are we going to know if this truck is bad because he don’t show you what they doing before that’s not work
it did not start. Turning the key did not actuate starter. This was WHY this was done.
This guy could use a new coat eh? Working on car batteries will eat any clothing. The battery acid is unforgivable.
I chuckled.... You're correct...battery acid is unforgiving. Goes in the washing machine whole, comes out a cheese cloth
Pull ground first bud.
100% correct. No chance of a short.
It’s just cold. Ur knowledge on chevy Silverado is bad.. just stop.
OH! I forgot to pull the choke!
Get rid of the crappy starter connector and cut the plug on the starter and put a ring terminal on the starter because those plugs break and the heat destroys them and you will never have to mess with that plug again
Believe it or not, that truck is still starting without issue, and the owner still hasn't replaced the pigtail and connector.