Range Rover P38 remote key fob aftermarket
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This video shows the installation of an aftermarket key fob to allow door lock and unlocking. This could not have been possible without the help of Odd-Jarle Kristoffersen. Check out his RUclips channel.
/ @workonp38
Note: This is a work around for having a key fob to lock and unlock the doors of a Range Rover P38 2000-2002. The key fob will send and electric signal to the Sill lock motor. This vehicle's computer BeCM thinks the car has been locked from the inside. The alarm will not be turned on and the lights from the side turning lights will not come on.
The user needs to use the fob to lock and unlock the doors or can use the key on the outside door handle to do the same but can not mix them. If you do so it will set off the alarm. Which you can disengage when you insert the key in the door and unlock the car.
I do not suggest doing this unless your BeCM has an EKA code. North American Range Rovers did not have these codes loaded into the BeCM. It is highly suggested to find someone who can put a EKA code into your BeCM and turn off the immobilizer at the same time.
Wiring: For 2000 to 2002 P38 (the door actuator changed for these years.)
Left hand drive
I forgot to add: unhook the negative battery terminal before.
Splice #7 Red, #1 Orange and #4 Orange/Black into the Purple/Blue wire going into right plug on drivers side door outstation.
Splice #8 Black, #6 Yellow/Black and #3 Yellow into Black wire going into right plug on drivers side door outstation.
Cut Pink/Black wire and cut Orange/Black wire coming from left plug on outstation. Connect #2 White wire to Pink/Black wire going to door actuator. Connect #5 White/Black wire to Orange/Black wire going to door actuator.
I used a separate wiring harness from a salvage yard so I did not have to cut an original wire.
www.ebay.com/i...
Note: Fall of 2017 Land Rover stopped supporting getting replacement key fobs
Also if you perform this you should know the following:
If the car's alarm goes off and you do not know the EKA code and how to input it the car will be underivable until you ship off the BeCM to someone who can take it out of the alarm state.
Because you are tricking the car to think the SIL lock is being locked from the inside by a passenger the following will happen if you use a combo of using the 3rd party fob and a physical key.
If you lock the car with the 3rd party key fob and then unlock it from the outside with the physical key the alarm will not go off.
If you lock the car from the outside with the physical key and unlock the car with the 3rd party fob the alarm WILL GO OFF!
If you lock the door with the 3rd party key fob while the drivers door is open the other three doors will unlock when you close the drivers door. This is normal and is called a mislock. The drivers door will remain locked.
Great to see someone else getting the 3rd party remote working. Well done :)
I just installed mine today using your instructions. Works beautifully. I also used your instructions on your update video about running a straight ground and straight battery line. Thank you!!!
Good to hear....fyi always use the same method to lock the door as unlocking it. Meaning if you lock it with a physical key then unlock it with the physical key. If you lock it with the fob then unlock it with the fob. Remember this is a work around and you are tricking the computer to think someone has locked the door from the inside. If you lock it with the fob and then unlock it with a key the computer thinks something is wrong and will turn on the alarm
What year is your truck?
Still working nicely?
Casper Noble 2001
1_chiefrocka yes!!! 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
black (thick) wire next to purple blue because I have three black wires,thanks for the video,regards
yes the big thick black wire
Hi I have a problem with mine that popped up after my electrician installed an remote 8 years ago which is battery drain. Does yours drain ?
Was wondering what kind of range you get with the new key fob compared to the old one?
With the door panel already off it's a great time to service the door latch if it's getting stiff. I'll be doing mine this summer.
Thanks.. Will do mine too
Its a very long winded way youve actually done this with parts you didnt need to get. This is the early and basic Lanbo system. I have just finished the installation of the upmarket system with single button start/stop and PKE and trunk release. When configuring the two door lock relays, the common connections feed the door lock motor. There was no need to cut the wires as you did, but simply locate the door lock motor connected to the outstation and cut the Orange/Black and Pink/Black wires and take them to the com connections on each relay, not need to splice in another loom at all. I would have used proper crimp connectors, never soldered joints with tape on. I now have the above system but never have to use the remote, thats in my pocket untouched. The middle button is connected to the trunk release, press once the top tailgate unlocks, press again the lower tailgate unlocks. PKE allows you to walk within 2 metres of the car and the system senses the fob and unlocks the doors automatically, press the start button once, the acc come on, press a second time and the ign comes on, third time with foot on the brake it starts the engine, to stop press once and the system unlocks the doors. I went one step further and built a circuit to interface the memory seats. Unlock the doors and the drivers seat moves right back giving you an easier entry/exit. Get in, jump into the seat and lock the doors and the seat moves up to your driving position and off you go. At the end of the journey you stop and switch off the engine, the remote fob unit unlocks the doors and the drivers seat moves away from the steering wheel. It was a bloody pain to interface as most of the connections are done at the BECM and every input and output that was needed was the wrong way round.
Hi ! You seem very knowledgeable, I bought a 97 range today and previous owner had no key at all. Car has been sitting 3 years and then he put a new used ignition in and has a key that turns it all the way. That's where I am now, previous owner passed away. Can I get a key made since I have a key that fits in ignition and is cut? Will this work with immobilizer? Any help would be great. Do you have a email address? I will pay you to help walk me through a solution if necessary
Sorry I have a key I meant that turns but has no key fob or electronics on it even though it does say land rover on it
I just got it in homie.... Looking for the harness now
Are you able to arm the alarm with this method and if so which wire did you tap into to do so? Believe it or not there are a million threads online looking to accomplish what you've done here. You deserve a beer. Thank you.
No you can not turn on the alarm using this method. This is basically a work around for not having an original Land Rover fob. When you lock the door with this method you are sending a signal to the motor inside the latch that is inside the door. The P38's computer thinks someone inside has locked the door. The hazard light s don't flash and the red light on the dash does not blink.
@@cltrovers thank u
@@cltrovers We've had an issue with the super lock function turning on and the manual says that the fob is required to unlock the motor. We have tried doing this manually when our key battery was dead. Hubs lost our last key. Do you have a recommendation?
Erin O'Brien do you have the EKA code?
Erin O'Brien don’t have wha code but if you can get everything back in working order, disable the super lock by cutting the super lock wires going to the door lock actuators from the becm. I cut mine at the becm under the passenger seat. No more super lock issues. Btw, my aftermarket key fobs are still working beautifully.
Been racking my brain all weekend trying to follow these steps on my 1996 one and can't get it to work, would you be able to make up a diagram or drawing to show what you are talking about? Thank you so much!
I'm not sure I can help since yours is a 1996. 1995-1998 the actuator was a different part so the wiring is going to be different. Can you let me know what wires are going from the actuator to the door outstation
@@cltrovers thank you so much! There are 7 cables connected to the acctuator.
Black
Blue/Red
Green/Red
Red/White
Red/Black
Purple/White
Pink/White
@@JoseRodriguez-qo7hp I can't figure it out for your 1996. I suggest you go to this youtube site and ask him to look at the wire diagram for you year and create the schematic for you. He is where I learned how to do this. ruclips.net/channel/UCh0Wf69k313mBJbPdqhCmKQ
@@cltrovers Muchas gracias por tus respuestas y por tu tiempo Muchas gracias
I just ordered mine shoukd be here april 28
Just got the alarm in the mail today... I sent a key to the uk www.keyfobrepair.co.uk/ ut cost 40 us dollars.. I spent 85 for 3 day delivery... That was the monday after ordering this..
Do you know if this would work for the immobilization?? I can’t get mine to start because I unhooked the battery and the key fob is no longer working to unlock it. As you know the dealer no longer will make the key fobs for these. I’ve called to try and obtain my EKA code but no luck. Any advice?
Bad news for you. The BeCM is in a locked mode. I did the same think as you a couple of years ago by unhooking the battery. You will need to find a service to ship your BeCM to. They can get the BeCM back to an unlocked status. Make sure they can put an EKA code into the BeCM so in the future you can take it out of the locked status. If your is a North American Range Rover they did not normally come with a EKA code. Some dealers could/would put them in but most did not.
Thank you for your response. I will look for somewhere to send the BeCM. Thank you again.
@@cltrovers OK so we need to send in the BeCM now---- if we buy a new one, will this also solve the problem? We are thinking there may be gremlins in ours
Erin O'Brien if you buy a new becm it’ll need to be synced with the ecm/ecu and with your factory key fobs (if you still use them)
Can you please let us know wire colors to connect? I have a hard time seeing them all bunched up like that.
It's been so long I don't remember...check out the notes in the section below the video. Also at the end of video has a wiring diagram
Got it! Do you remember the exact kit?
The immobilizer is must be to bypass or still can to working normally
I don't understand your question. When using this method the alarm is not turned on. I don't believe the immobilizer is engaged since the alarm is not activated but I can not confirm this.
@@cltrovers ok thanks for the answer
land rover range 2000 model remote not locking and unlocking the motor anymore, with that am unable to start the motor. if i buy this product and install it will It start the motor.
No. You most likely have two issues. 1. is locking and unlocking the door. Have you tried to re-sync the fob? 2. Does the physical key not start the motor. What does the instrument panel say when you try to start the motor?
Можно видео подробно какой куда провод!? Я с России республика Дагестан!!!
I have a 2000 land rover.. Would it work for mine... ?... Will the alarm be disabled?
Yes this will work for a 2000 Range Rover but it will not disable the alarm if it is going off right now. Is your alarm going off?
I keep the key in the ignition
What is the name of the keyless? That u uses
@@3nathan I don't have the name of the device but look int the description of the video and there is a link on ebay how to buy it. Again, do not do this if you don't know the EKA code first. This will not take the vehicle out of Alarm mode. There is a new solution. Classic Cars of New South Wales has replacement Fobs that act the same as factory ones. They are expensive (about $250) but work just like an original fob
how i disable the alarm..... unhook both battery posts... using jump box pos on neg posts... turn on jumpbox... reset car.... hook bat back right... unlock door...car cranks... no ?
hello do you have the wiring for a p38 1997 ? many thnxxx
No, sorry...I know the latch is different for the 1995-1998....there are two connection points
yes but I don't have a diagram. The latch has two connections. Find the Green/Red wire that runs from one of the connections into the latch. This is the positive that goes to the motor. Cut this wire. Connect the #5 white/black wire from the 3rd party remote box to this wire as it goes into the latch. It should be right next to the Green/Red wire. Find the Black wire that goes into the latch. Cut it and attach the #2 white wire from the 3rd party remote box to it as it goes into the latch.
Thought it about it some more and forgot I had some more information for the 95 to 98 P38's
@@cltroversbeen racking my brain all weekend trying to follow these steps on my 1996 one and can't get it to work, would you be able to make up a diagram or drawing to show what you are talking about?
Thank you so much!
That EZ
Will this wiring work for a 1999 p38 in canada?
Yes, check out my other video concerning where to bring in power to the 3rd party remote box. 1999 was the refresh year so if your was early it may have the older style wiring from the outstation to the latch as well as an older style door latch. If your door latch only has one connection then you know it’s the same as this video (95 to 98 has a different latch)
@@cltrovers thank you!