Appreciate your videos Gordon , most shops are just part changers now at a premium price. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, been on the road 39 years now , nice to see how it’s done old school without a white shop coat and an extra charge to hook up the ecm to the computer to see which brake is leaking 😜
Thanks for taking the time to shoot the video for us Gordon. I live in the rust belt like you and have started using anti seize on everything I take apart.
TheDisorderly1 I do the same thing, every nut and bolt get coated with anti seize every time they get installed, it saves a lot of time the next time they have to be removed
You're a good mechanic Gordon. You know what will hold and what won't, what needs to be lubricated and what doesn't, what's going to be ok and and what isn't. Iv never done it but I guess you could weld an old spanner to that can rod to get the clevace off, will spin and won't get passed the stud.
I noticed few details you did which are done by very small number of mechanics , keep the good work going and thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
When measuring the pushrod length you should probably do it with the pushrod in the fully retracted position, not when it is fully extended as shown on this video. Caged the brake can and then take the measurement. The reason being not all standard stoke 3030 brake cans have same pushrod stroke length. There is always a slight different among different manufacturers. You could end up with chambers with different stroke length on the same axle. The “rated” stroke length on all 3030 is 2.5 inches but actual could be anything from 2.5 to 2.7 This way is what all chamber makers recommend.
Used to always keep a pancake gasket in the truck. And have changed out the gasket on the road a lot. Also I always put my cage bolt back in its place when done. Turns into a bad day when you can't find that cage bolt.
I had one on the chamber but couldn't get it off because it was stuck and the "T" end of it was breaking the hole and spinning loose in it, I borrowed one from the shop where I work to use. I'll keep the new one in my tool box in the truck. Thanks for watching Pete.
I forget were lucky in the Southern US. My 1995 KW, still is rust free. Cage bolts are still in good shape on it. Shoot my 19 year old ford pickup. Still has no rust.
A trooper told me he stopped to check a truck on the side of the road - way back when most truckers could fix stuff. He found the trucker dead under the trailer axle. The trucker was chainging the pancake and his cage bolt came undone and let the spring loose. Took the top 4” off his head.
o/ .. question .. not found something on this, putting parking brake chamber on just the rear axle of back trailer (set of doubles) hay haulers out here in the west with set of flatbed doubles, deck that rear trailer when not loaded (hand tightened brakes-4 straps tie it down) so, we wanna get away from that step by the parking brake chamber(visually ck brake adjustment) midland ff2 valve in place of the re-6 on there now..could you give me heads up what i might be overlooking? - and - if i may throw this in also .. front trailer we wanna move the lite socket and gladhands to underneath the trailer behind the tractor for hook-up there (tractor already set up) - and - jk! would really appreciate any direction you provide.
An anti-compounding quick release valve may have a hole through the rubber disc in this air valve , replace the complete air valve . This gives a false impression of a leaking brake chamber or a tractor parking brake valve . 110/23
Can you please tell me what size is the caging bolt. I want to keep a pair or 2 in my tool box. I m a big fan of your awesome videos keep up the good work.
Yes you should chock the wheels and release the parking brake if you can, If it's leaking too much then you need to use the caging bolt to pull the parking spring back. If you can release the parking brake with air then you can put the caging bolt in enough by hand to change the chamber or you can back the brake off all the way and do it without the caging bolt. You still need to set the parking brake to take the air lines off and finish changing the chamber and release the brake again to adjust the brake when finished.
Forgive the dumb question from the electrical guy, but if you had more time, could you have used a good penetrating oil on that clevis and got it off without using heat, or is that sort of thing pretty much "If you ain't got a torch, you ain't getting it loose?"
You can get a new clevis if you can't get it off. I don't know if oil will get it off or not. It might be best to use anti seize on assembly. Thanks for watching.
excavatoree,,,,,,,,, many many times if not everytime you can get that clevis off by taking 2 fair sized ball peen hammers and by placing one against the threaded part of the clevis and with the other hammer 180 degrees on the other side smack the hammer a few good shots and it should come off. use some PB blaster if you like but this method loosens the rust and frees it up. i used this way for many years and it usually works. also a good method for removing frozen tie rod ends, although on tie rods i used to use 2 four pound sledge hammers with more force but again it almost always works. great if you are on a road call and no heat available. there are always those times that nothing will work but heat but try this and see if it works for you
Its funny you didn't put WD-40 or brake rust cleaner and also you had to loose counter nut before to unbolt the clevis off the old brake chamber. Torch works too but not everybody have them
I can't do a video on bearings yet but the closest one I already have is in the series replacing the "s"cam on a truck, it has a bearing job in it in part 1, and part 4, it's not a complete bearing job because I didn't change the bearing race, I also showed how to grease a bearing with solid grease only to show how, that bearing didn't need that because it is in liquid oil but doesn't hurt to do it that way. Thanks for watching.
I know it's expensive on the road. I had one blow out on the road about 10 or 15 years ago, I stopped at a rest area and backed off the brake and clamped a vise grip on the air hose and taped the vise grip on the hose so I wouldn't lose it, I stopped at the Freightliner dealer in Indianapolis across from the flying j and bought a new brake chamber which rode in the cab with me until I got home a few days later to put it on.
Yes, I've been hauling supper heavies again, up to 80k lbs. I tried to buy the wheel studs for that axle that needs them and Freightliner can't get them until next week, so I hope I'll be OK 'til then. I'm so busy with taxes and working overtime that I can't edit the videos I have waiting.
Being to busy is a good thing, videos can wait since they do not pay the bills! You have some very good truck parts companies in your area like Plaza Fleet parts & service or Rush that should have anything you need :)
I won't have time to find those studs this week so I told Freightliner to deliver them to my job and I'll pick them up there. I have about 1 or 2 weeks left on these high paying loads I think. I'm making a lot of $ on these and I don't mind working the extra hours in the cold rain when I'm getting paid that much.
I have an issue with an air leak on my brake system on my 2016 T880. When I press the yellow parking brake, I hear air bleeding though the yellow knob. Never leaks when yellow brake is pulled out and engaged. Could this be brake chamber?
Hearing air through the yellow parking brake valve is a good indication you have a leak in the TRACTOR parking brakes. It could be anywhere from the yellow valve itself down to the parking brake chambers or anywhere in between. It's usually one of the chambers. I have a video on how I find air leaks that are hard to pinpoint by ear or by soapy water spray. ruclips.net/video/d4HxSYw82yo/видео.html
Working with air brakes can be a real blast. Have you ever done a piggy-back kit where you just change the spring brake (and can put a new diaphragm in if needed) ? That's when a caged spring really is your friend. I wonder how many guys have been hurt badly releasing the big band prior to caging the spring? Even tired, weak or broken springs can still be dangerous. Don't forget to give the auto-slacks a little love 'n lube. Happy Easter.
You can still change the service brake pancake in the 30 30 but not the parking pancake anymore, it has a permanent band on it. Thanks for watching Stan and Happy Easter to you too.
@@57bagre lol, thanks for the reply. I’m a truck driver and one of my chambers is leaking , never replaced them before so I’m doing a lot of research, I’m just not sure how or when to cut the rod.
I guess a hack saw is the cheapest tool to cut if you don't have a lot of tools, I usually use a 4 inch cut off wheel but I put the nut on and thread it down past where it will be cut so I can use it to clean the thread when I take it off. I think I showed all that in the video. I saw your son's video playing the entertainer and I tried to put a "like" but it showed that I "liked" it sometime in the past. I like piano but am too old to learn to play well, I didn't have an opportunity to learn when I was young so I'm poking at it now.
@@57bagre my issue is the measuring, I couldn’t really get that from the video. Do you measure before you cage it or after ? Bolt extracted or extended?… yeah, my son loves piano, we play gospel music for our church.
I just do it extended out, I measure from the face of the chamber to the end of the rod or where the rod would end if it's still in the clevis of the old one and cut the new one the same. Only the parking brake chamber has the caging bolt anyway so you don't cage the other chambers on the truck. Many times I can't get the old caging bolt off the old chamber to cage it so I just back off the brake instead of caging it. I have over a hundred videos doing repairs on my truck in my playlist on big truck repair and maintenance, I've been driving this same truck for 20 years now and doing mechanic videos on RUclips for 6 years. I'm very happy to hear your family goes to church and your son plays piano there, I will follow your channel and hope your son does more piano videos. I put up some new repair videos today and the last couple of weeks. Keep in touch.
Thats dangerous you should buy a new clevis. What your doing is tempering the steel causing to loose its strength. You should have put it in a bucket of sand at best. Your setting yourself up for potential brake failure.
All your your video's Gordon are fantastic, you have saved me a small fortune in ripoff garage charges. Meany thanks to you. Michael
I could work with this gentleman all day long! Thanks for the video.
Brother you can work with him all you want he's an accident waiting to hsppen.
Appreciate your videos Gordon , most shops are just part changers now at a premium price.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, been on the road 39 years now , nice to see how it’s done old school without a white shop coat and an extra charge to hook up the ecm to the computer to see which brake is leaking 😜
Thanks Gordon, good information 👍
I think the hole that is larger is for different makes/sized air cans.
Keep up the great work 👏
Thanks for taking the time to shoot the video for us Gordon. I live in the rust belt like you and have started using anti seize on everything I take apart.
TheDisorderly1 I do the same thing, every nut and bolt get coated with anti seize every time they get installed, it saves a lot of time the next time they have to be removed
never seize it the ONLY WAY TO GO with nuts and bolts living in that environment.
You're a good mechanic Gordon. You know what will hold and what won't, what needs to be lubricated and what doesn't, what's going to be ok and and what isn't. Iv never done it but I guess you could weld an old spanner to that can rod to get the clevace off, will spin and won't get passed the stud.
I have learned a lot from you
Thanks for the effort of putting this videos out keep them coming
Goog video, I like your work, thanks.
Excellent. It has given me confidence to change mine now. Thank you.
as a new driver i have learned so much from your vids
I noticed few details you did which are done by very small number of mechanics , keep the good work going and thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Always enjoy your truck maintenance videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting Marty.
When measuring the pushrod length you should probably do it with the pushrod in the fully retracted position, not when it is fully extended as shown on this video. Caged the brake can and then take the measurement. The reason being not all standard stoke 3030 brake cans have same pushrod stroke length. There is always a slight different among different manufacturers. You could end up with chambers with different stroke length on the same axle. The “rated” stroke length on all 3030 is 2.5 inches but actual could be anything from 2.5 to 2.7 This way is what all chamber makers recommend.
So measure the rod before caging it? I’m learning how to do this
Ive learn alot from him
Used to always keep a pancake gasket in the truck. And have changed out the gasket on the road a lot. Also I always put my cage bolt back in its place when done. Turns into a bad day when you can't find that cage bolt.
I had one on the chamber but couldn't get it off because it was stuck and the "T" end of it was breaking the hole and spinning loose in it, I borrowed one from the shop where I work to use. I'll keep the new one in my tool box in the truck. Thanks for watching Pete.
In Canada exposure to air and 3 brake applications cause the caging bolt to seize in it's mounting hole such that you will never get it out.
I forget were lucky in the Southern US. My 1995 KW, still is rust free. Cage bolts are still in good shape on it. Shoot my 19 year old ford pickup. Still has no rust.
A trooper told me he stopped to check a truck on the side of the road - way back when most truckers could fix stuff. He found the trucker dead under the trailer axle. The trucker was chainging the pancake and his cage bolt came undone and let the spring loose. Took the top 4” off his head.
Grateful for the step-by-step illustration
Great video! 👍🏻
Good on you Gordon....Another 200$ saved in Labour .....also saved money on emergency call out.....well done
Thanks for watching and commenting.
What if the caging bolt doesn't.turn .. after you put it in?
Great tutorial Gordon!
Thanks for watching.
o/ .. question .. not found something on this, putting parking brake chamber on just the rear axle of back trailer (set of doubles) hay haulers out here in the west with set of flatbed doubles, deck that rear trailer when not loaded (hand tightened brakes-4 straps tie it down) so, we wanna get away from that step by the parking brake chamber(visually ck brake adjustment) midland ff2 valve in place of the re-6 on there now..could you give me heads up what i might be overlooking? - and - if i may throw this in also .. front trailer we wanna move the lite socket and gladhands to underneath the trailer behind the tractor for hook-up there (tractor already set up) - and - jk! would really appreciate any direction you provide.
One more great video Mr Gordon, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks for watching Denny.
Some body help me. I have a problem for trailer truck brakes all trailler brakes comes lock what is the problem I need your idea.
An anti-compounding quick release valve may have a hole through the rubber disc in this air valve , replace the complete air valve . This gives a false impression of a leaking brake chamber or a tractor parking brake valve . 110/23
best simple lots of respect to this master
At 22.16 what size tool is that Mr Gordon?
Can you please tell me what size is the caging bolt. I want to keep a pair or 2 in my tool box. I m a big fan of your awesome videos keep up the good work.
there should be a caging bolt attached to the parking brake chamber, they're all the same size.
Thank you
Thank you Sir.
Muy bueno Gracias 👍👏👍
24:11 Lift the little cap and back the adjuster off. Thanks
Hi Gordon. When replacing a brake chamber .do you need to release the brakes and have wheels chucked.
Yes you should chock the wheels and release the parking brake if you can, If it's leaking too much then you need to use the caging bolt to pull the parking spring back. If you can release the parking brake with air then you can put the caging bolt in enough by hand to change the chamber or you can back the brake off all the way and do it without the caging bolt. You still need to set the parking brake to take the air lines off and finish changing the chamber and release the brake again to adjust the brake when finished.
if i just have to change piggybank what should i do .
Forgive the dumb question from the electrical guy, but if you had more time, could you have used a good penetrating oil on that clevis and got it off without using heat, or is that sort of thing pretty much "If you ain't got a torch, you ain't getting it loose?"
You can get a new clevis if you can't get it off. I don't know if oil will get it off or not. It might be best to use anti seize on assembly. Thanks for watching.
excavatoree,,,,,,,,, many many times if not everytime you can get that clevis off by taking 2 fair sized ball peen hammers and by placing one against the threaded part of the clevis and with the other hammer 180 degrees on the other side smack the hammer a few good shots and it should come off. use some PB blaster if you like but this method loosens the rust and frees it up. i used this way for many years and it usually works. also a good method for removing frozen tie rod ends, although on tie rods i used to use 2 four pound sledge hammers with more force but again it almost always works. great if you are on a road call and no heat available. there are always those times that nothing will work but heat but try this and see if it works for you
Gordon, how much were the air actuators each?
Done 3 of these this week. I never mess with getting the old clevis off.
Its funny you didn't put WD-40 or brake rust cleaner and also you had to loose counter nut before to unbolt the clevis off the old brake chamber. Torch works too but not everybody have them
A lot of that stuff is 13 mm 15 mm 17 mm on American trucks
greats video
Gordon the Master😎
Thanks for watching Alex
Gordon Robertson ..early congrats on 8k subs Gord
Thanks.
Can you please make a video redoing bearings please....
I can't do a video on bearings yet but the closest one I already have is in the series replacing the "s"cam on a truck, it has a bearing job in it in part 1, and part 4, it's not a complete bearing job because I didn't change the bearing race, I also showed how to grease a bearing with solid grease only to show how, that bearing didn't need that because it is in liquid oil but doesn't hurt to do it that way. Thanks for watching.
Those bolts on clevis will rust real quick if they are not stainless steel.
Great
this change out cost my friend $393.61 on 10-31-18. (road side service in Charlotte, NC)
I know it's expensive on the road. I had one blow out on the road about 10 or 15 years ago, I stopped at a rest area and backed off the brake and clamped a vise grip on the air hose and taped the vise grip on the hose so I wouldn't lose it, I stopped at the Freightliner dealer in Indianapolis across from the flying j and bought a new brake chamber which rode in the cab with me until I got home a few days later to put it on.
That a Boy Gordon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
good
Your company must be keeping you pretty busy :)
Yes, I've been hauling supper heavies again, up to 80k lbs. I tried to buy the wheel studs for that axle that needs them and Freightliner can't get them until next week, so I hope I'll be OK 'til then. I'm so busy with taxes and working overtime that I can't edit the videos I have waiting.
Being to busy is a good thing, videos can wait since they do not pay the bills! You have some very good truck parts companies in your area like Plaza Fleet parts & service or Rush that should have anything you need :)
I won't have time to find those studs this week so I told Freightliner to deliver them to my job and I'll pick them up there. I have about 1 or 2 weeks left on these high paying loads I think. I'm making a lot of $ on these and I don't mind working the extra hours in the cold rain when I'm getting paid that much.
Gordon Robertson ..u need head and body cam harnesses for easier recording
@@57bagre
Pete usually has a display with a good set of wheel bolts and lugnuts
I would like to see this on a non Big Tech platform.
Please.
Were's your teflontape
I hate changing pots, the pins the clevis never come out, ugh.
Thanks for watching. Yeah sometimes they can be a bear.
I have an issue with an air leak on my brake system on my 2016 T880. When I press the yellow parking brake, I hear air bleeding though the yellow knob. Never leaks when yellow brake is pulled out and engaged. Could this be brake chamber?
Hearing air through the yellow parking brake valve is a good indication you have a leak in the TRACTOR parking brakes. It could be anywhere from the yellow valve itself down to the parking brake chambers or anywhere in between. It's usually one of the chambers. I have a video on how I find air leaks that are hard to pinpoint by ear or by soapy water spray.
ruclips.net/video/d4HxSYw82yo/видео.html
Tks.
Thanks for watching.
Working with air brakes can be a real blast. Have you ever done a piggy-back kit where you just change the spring brake (and can put a new diaphragm in if needed) ? That's when a caged spring really is your friend. I wonder how many guys have been hurt badly releasing the big band prior to caging the spring? Even tired, weak or broken springs can still be dangerous. Don't forget to give the auto-slacks a little love 'n lube. Happy Easter.
You can still change the service brake pancake in the 30 30 but not the parking pancake anymore, it has a permanent band on it. Thanks for watching Stan and Happy Easter to you too.
You must be a farmer!
Me gusta👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching (gracias por mirando)
Very nice
If you coat that with anti seize compound you may not have clevis frozen on the rod.
please please tape measure
Dangerous wat to uncage can better use a valve and regulator so. Don't put lot of air
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
We use to be able to just buy the diaphragm, no you have to buy the whole chamber
I would have popped the clamp off and been done by now. Screw changing the pushrod.
🙏👍🏋️♂️
자가 정비^^
Don’t new chambers come with a clevis?
Some do some don't, some come with the wrong kind of clevis.
Thanks for watching Manuel (or do you prefer Manny)
@@57bagre lol, thanks for the reply. I’m a truck driver and one of my chambers is leaking , never replaced them before so I’m doing a lot of research, I’m just not sure how or when to cut the rod.
I guess a hack saw is the cheapest tool to cut if you don't have a lot of tools, I usually use a 4 inch cut off wheel but I put the nut on and thread it down past where it will be cut so I can use it to clean the thread when I take it off. I think I showed all that in the video.
I saw your son's video playing the entertainer and I tried to put a "like" but it showed that I "liked" it sometime in the past. I like piano but am too old to learn to play well, I didn't have an opportunity to learn when I was young so I'm poking at it now.
@@57bagre my issue is the measuring, I couldn’t really get that from the video. Do you measure before you cage it or after ? Bolt extracted or extended?… yeah, my son loves piano, we play gospel music for our church.
I just do it extended out, I measure from the face of the chamber to the end of the rod or where the rod would end if it's still in the clevis of the old one and cut the new one the same. Only the parking brake chamber has the caging bolt anyway so you don't cage the other chambers on the truck. Many times I can't get the old caging bolt off the old chamber to cage it so I just back off the brake instead of caging it. I have over a hundred videos doing repairs on my truck in my playlist on big truck repair and maintenance, I've been driving this same truck for 20 years now and doing mechanic videos on RUclips for 6 years.
I'm very happy to hear your family goes to church and your son plays piano there, I will follow your channel and hope your son does more piano videos. I put up some new repair videos today and the last couple of weeks. Keep in touch.
great video! gordon I would appreciate it if you could put subtitles in Spanish pleaseee
I don't know how to do the subtitles yet. No se como hacer los subtitulos con RUclips todavia. Gracias por mirando.
11:24 holyyyyyyyy, 😲😲😲😲 is that an Alien when got out from somebody's chest??????? That sounds is terrible 😵😵😵😵
Just buy a new clevis and be done with it.
😤😤😤😤😤finely😁😁😁😁👍👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Wasting time just put a new one on
You should never use a torch anywhere there is a rubber diaghphram present. You could cause the diaghphram to fail.
Thats dangerous you should buy a new clevis. What your doing is tempering the steel causing to loose its strength. You should have put it in a bucket of sand at best. Your setting yourself up for potential brake failure.