You made that look so easy, I've fought those brake cans for as much as 3 hrs they were so rusted and seized in place. I usually replace the clevis and pin with new ones but nothing wrong with reusing the old ones. Nice job...
i cut the clevis pin y,day with a cuttin torch,,i worry about fire all the time so had a hose pulled out and ready...I wish he would have helped me with push pull air lines ..a real problem when they are old
I showed your videos to a guy man who been helping me work on truck's it's help him be more involved to help me and not so stressful on me ak not sure how much you no it really helps a lot too thumbs up. Video's
Blessed morning to you Mr mechanic, you really explain how to be a heavy truck mechanic. Your explanations is band on. Thanks much. I just finished change a brake chamber. Got dot and the adjustments was correct. Best regards.
Great video brother I have a 2010 Great Dane reefer trailer I just got from auction and the cans are rusted to hell your video gives me the confidence to knock this out in a truck stop parking lot
TwinStick Garage don’t set the brakes that puts pressure on the pin crazy way of doing it I’m a full time time served mechanic done literally hundreds of these
@@Ezrider359 you shouldn’t need to totally de-adjust a brake to change a chamber not trying to be a smart ass mate you carry on doing it your way just never seen it done that way
quick an easy ezra. i keep 4 around all the time. i figure as long as i have them, i wont need them......if i dont have them, you can bet i will need 4!
Glad to see all the use of never seize or Stevie Wonder paste like we used to call it. I was yelling at the TV for you to loosen the airlines while you were unbolting the air can, but you didn’t listen and had to do it the hard way. 🤣🤣 Good yo see you still plugging along.
That was really helpful... In a different way for me! It's helping me recreate more accurate Models. It does blow my mind that there's no Backing Plates on those Drum Brakes!!! 😳 I can't imagine a Car or Light Truck without them.
@@Ezrider359 I'm quickly learning that. I'm guessing that it helps keep the Brakes cooler and dryer, not having a heavy Backing Plate closing in what has to be 5X to 10X the HEAT of a sub 2 Ton Car.
Hey just a little tip when doing a pm and service taking some oil "new or used" put a few drops on the clevis and pin and work it in by moving the pin back and forward to keep from rusting up and making it difficult to remove the pin comming from a fleet mechanic
Always good to see folks taking care of the important stuff, thank you so much for your videos, hope you have had a good summer brother, stay safe and healthy.
It's fascinating to watch a diesel technician in action. I still haven't had the chance to work on something this size since graduation. This doesn't make the field I am in, but hope to get into your line of work in the near future... 🤔🧐Thanks for the video. Your content is awesome as always.
Good install but on a side note, I'll bet this brake will be unsafe soon. Notice from about 8:32 to 8:45 the slack adjuster anchor stud moves as the slack adjuster rotates. This is caused by the stud and nut no longer gripping the slotted anchor plate tight enough. Over the years I've seen many anchor studs loosen up due to time, corrosion and not much metal surface around the slot to grip to in the first place. This is a common problem that is largely overlooked by drivers, mechanics, safety managers and even certified inspectors. The result can be that the slack adjuster looses its reference and doesn't keep the correct adjustment. Always make sure those anchor studs are tightly mounted to the anchor plate because they do have a tendency to loosen up. Hope I helped. Thanks for your interesting videos, Ezrider359.
@@rearspeaker6364 Thanks, rearspeaker6364. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Over the decades, I've found many of these "Haldex" type automatic slack adjusters with the 'plate & flat stud' style of anchor bracket to fail my pre-trip inspections due to allowing it's brake to back off out of adjustment. That is not good thing if loaded heavy or empty (or even bobtail) because all of those brakes need to be in proper adjustment for them to function properly and keep us out of the penalty box. Typically, the failure is caused by the flat stud becoming loose on it's plate because the nut securing the flat stud to the plate has very little surface area to clamp down to (a poor design, in my opinion). I've even found many of those flat studs completely GONE (as in so loose, they've fallen off)! This, in turn, causes the slack adjuster to lose its reference allowing it to quit adjusting. Over time and brake applications, the brake backs off and becomes ineffective. Believe me, if you are hauling 65,000 + lbs of sand in the end-dump along at 40 mph on a two-lane with oncoming traffic and a car pulls out in front of you WAY TOO #*!@!*# CLOSE and only your left steer brake is working, you'll know what I'm talking about (and you'll have wished you wore 'Depends' that day) !!!! Brakes need to work properly all the time! We can make sure they do BEFORE a lot easier than we can deal with the results of a deadly collision afterwards. Take care.
Never did much adjusting with the newer adjusters but toted a 9/16ths snap-on combo someone gave me and always set my own brakes. That way I could see how hard I was being on them Pulled them tight and backed off 1/4. Never lost over 1.4 between services so I was doing all right. The other drivers said I'd get fired if they caught me with it. I'd have showed it to them and said to have at it. I only used it when it was time BUT you never knew when one of the old adjusters was going to to spin out. I set other drivers brakes all the time that had bad adjusters that never got changed. I still have the wrench but my mower don't have adjusters! Thanks, Ezra! Burn fuel and GBWYou and Yall!
Man I love your videos I really learn a lot since I started at a trucking company 2 years ago, but I'm really surprised that you haven't gotten into the Milwaukee m18 fuel line. Try it brother.
Nothing like doing this in a truck stop parking lot in the rain at night and to make it worse it’s cold outside. This man is inside a controlled clean environment and making it look easy. It’s much harder after u been driving all day.
Great video. I am trying to learn watching these ! Why did you not have to cage the spring brake before removing the can ? I just helped a friend put a new can on his crane truck and I compressed the spring before we tried to unbolt the can ? I figured the brake was fully spring applied and it had to be caged before removing! The old can had clevis welded to the piston rod, so Cut it off and welded the new nut to the clevis and threaded the clevis onto the new piston shaft .It worked out nicely but was just curious about the spring brake ! Thanks for the videos !
Would it be easier to remove the Clevis pin before you dynamite the trailer? And remove the air lines while brake chamber is still mounted. How did you check the length of the push rod? Vise on sale at Canadian tire. I wouldn’t tighten the jam but till it is connected to the slack adjuster. Good job, glad to see it worked out for you. 👍👍🎯
Done maybe half a thousand of em before I started driving em then I still had to do my own cause there new mechanic couldn't do shit right ??? I always hated doing brake chambers cause doing em right and doing em are two different things. You did that perfectly, stroke length etc. FINE JOB SIR !!! All the best to you and yours Sir.
When I show them how to change a piece of equipment, I try to tell them the size if the bolts and fittings so they get the right tools. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍🎯
@@Ezrider359 OK... so the rod is threaded all the way? That was not clear, I thought it was unthreaded. Yeah, put the die on the rod, cut it, then roll the die off! Put it on backwards, of course.
Hey brother very informative video like always, how you and your family holding up brother? Good to hear from you sir. Your friend from Larned kansas Eric Houser.
all i can say amazing job you got thump up from me and i hope everyone watched this video to be fare and give the thump up as well PLEASE,thank you sir for post it and always good luck for you sir.
I recently purchased an antique truck that does not have double cans. Is the upgrade as easy as just changing them to the newer style? The parking brake is mechanical on the driveshaft.
Ez have u saw the gages u can get for the push rods with the adjuster arrows. there only a couple of bucks for each wheel and after installation it's just a visual and if the pointer is between the two indicaters your good to go we have been using them for 10 years or so and they are fantastic. we have them on a couple hundred trucks. well worth the money less crawling under the vehicle and dot likes to. when they see you are in spec. they usually don't dig any farther. unless its really obvious. BTW that anti seize saves a lot of agrivation I use it on every thing especially if you know u will have to go there again and saves alot of Liquid wrench especially when you're along the road with out it.
Hello I’ve installed a few of theses in my time but my question is this I’ve noticed that a lot of trailers are tandem and not tri axle may I ask why because most of the U.K. ones are tri axle, thanks markUK
Mark paulene In us most all weight limit is 80,000 Tandems will scale it with a tandem trl......tri axles some states will allow you more weight....tandems are typically 34.000 on trl and 34,000 on tractor drives and 12,000 on steer.....tri axles will go to 60,000 on the 3 axles.....the USA is crazy on type of freight you hauling.....example Kentucky allows coal buckets to gross 120,000 lbs on tandem tractor and tandem trl...5 axles...but on on state roadways.....lol. Most all federal highways, interstate, are 80,000 gross unless permits and over 5 axles to meet bridge laws and more axles to meet the weight your hauling.....Hope I didn’t complicate things to much.....lol
Mark paulene I think in his area the state let’s him run around 105,000 lbs with his axles and type of freight he hauls........more crazy is 2 dual wheel axels and 1 single tire axle still allowed 60,000 lbs.....example a tri axle dump truck....20,000 steer with floater tires, and 3 axles on rear
@@kygambler22 hi thanks for your reply, so it's more of a state regulations aswell, over here in the UK it's just one law for all so that's what I thought over there
Mark paulene It would be nice if they uniform the laws but all states have their laws and the feds...government....have theirs.......we pay a fuel tax for every mile ran in every state....I’ve noticed your trailers are about all 3 axle rigs with lots of single axle tractors....in USA a single axle tractor is allowed 20,000 pounds on drive.....a tandem is 34,000 on 2 drives....crazy stuff...
@@kygambler22 hi yeh over here most of our tractors as you call them have one drive axle one lift axle depends on if lift axle is in front of the drive axle it could be a stear axle also. Heavy haulage tends to have two drive axles and some of our trailers have one lift axle, over here we gross at I think 41 tons? use to be 38 total all over the UK thanks oh we pay tax on our fuel not mileage
And for all of the backyard techs who have never changed a brake pot (can). Always cage the spring brake first until you thoroughly understand what you're doing. Heavy danger!
@@bmdbigfeet1031 I was being silly. But, the bus Im talking about is odd...I imported it, so NOTHING is the same, standard or whatnot. And its just a nut, with no catch. I may do a video one day.
that was an easy fix lol on the gas axe for the cotter pin i thought the spring brake chambers come with clevis and clevis pin and cotter pin as full kit? looks like your slack adjuster is a bit bent?
Thanks for the great videos, I'm going to be buying a 2015 Mack Pinnacle series, mp8 motor , 12 speed M Drive, I do a lot of mountain driving, going down Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado 80,000 lbs, it a cakewalk with those Jake's. What do think with ratio 2.67 ?
Also when cutting the shaft to length put the jam nut first run it down and the cut the shaft then back the nut out that would chase the threads putting the clevis on easier
O.k. I have a question for anyone that knows. Are all the nuts 15/16 the same on all chassis brake chambers or are they different nut sizes? I need to order some.
the best way to check and see if the brake assembly on any axle is working, check the drum... if its got rust on the inside surface of the drum...the shoes are not making contact. You should not have been able to move that slack adjuster at all with your hand unless the slack adjuster has been turned all the way back... other issues than just that can... normal position brakes are locked up...cant move anything. Released has 120 psi to chamber and you wont move that by hand. First off...cage the old air can while still mounted and the brakes are released...easier to bet caging bolt in and tightened down. Then back the brake off. TIP: any self adjusting slack adjusters do not work without grease.... grease is very important... grease keeps the ratchet part from gumming up with grim. Even new slack adjuster must be purged after installation... the factory assembly grease does not count... that little arrow the moves on the outside of slack has to be free to catch the next notch of internal mechanism... and $3.00 tube of grease is cheaper than $150 slack adjuster, when you can hit all the slacks with one tube..
looks like your slack adjuster clevis pin hole is worn out just a bit too much. i saw quite a bit of movement in there when you released the brakes. either way i enjoyed the video .
Yeah the pin had a little more wear than I would have liked. Was a Sunday and everything closed. Should probably grab a few new pins next time I'm picking up parts
I once over tightened the caging bolt and I was right behind the slack adjuster and the caging bolt broke and was hit in the chest by the bottom of the slack adjuster where it meets the rod and thankfully I walked away with only a bruise. Really hurt
@@Ezrider359 🇺🇸Did you even have to hit em with Liquid Wrench or anything like that? Most of the trailer parts I’ve taken off were rusted like crazy! Well, you had the torch and that will usually help a great deal. It’s a good time to get those things done...before winter sets in. I have a boat load of projects to get done. Have a great one!🤩
My comment got screwed up. You weren't able to read the first part. My question was are you old enough to have been able to rebuild both sides of a 30/30. When I was doing repair both sides had removeable clamps. And the parking brake spring commonly broke and punctured the diaphragm. We always had parts in stock for complete 30/30 reduild.
yeah pretty much everything has a non removable clamp on the park brake side now, i do have a video on changing a service brake diaphragm. i keep half cans and pancakes on hand as well for quick fixes.
Hearing aids and eye surgery are apparently cheap around there. Still i think that ear plugs and safety glasses are even cheaper in the long run. Stay safe.
![👨🏾🏭 How To Disassemble [AIR BRAKE CYLINDER] Cómo WORKS - How To DISASSEMBLE AIR BRAKE CYLINDER](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-m9XzcGNgsc/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello dear friend, greetings from a small village of Iran, I'm a dumpertruck driver, your work is so Great
You made that look so easy, I've fought those brake cans for as much as 3 hrs they were so rusted and seized in place. I usually replace the clevis and pin with new ones but nothing wrong with reusing the old ones. Nice job...
i cut the clevis pin y,day with a cuttin torch,,i worry about fire all the time so had a hose pulled out and ready...I wish he would have helped me with push pull air lines ..a real problem when they are old
I showed your videos to a guy man who been helping me work on truck's it's help him be more involved to help me and not so stressful on me ak not sure how much you no it really helps a lot too thumbs up. Video's
Blessed morning to you Mr mechanic, you really explain how to be a heavy truck mechanic. Your explanations is band on. Thanks much. I just finished change a brake chamber. Got dot and the adjustments was correct.
Best regards.
Another good video Ezra, I like the way you cut the excess of the clevis pin, proper mechanic.👍👍👍
Thanks for simplified demonstration. My knees and back don't miss concrete.
Great video brother I have a 2010 Great Dane reefer trailer I just got from auction and the cans are rusted to hell your video gives me the confidence to knock this out in a truck stop parking lot
Cool - I needed a refresher before I tackled this on Project Snowman 👍👊
TwinStick Garage don’t set the brakes that puts pressure on the pin crazy way of doing it I’m a full time time served mechanic done literally hundreds of these
I Know you got it under control twinsticks 👍
Graeme the slack adjuster was backed all the way off before setting the brakes there was no pressure on the pin you must have missed that somehow
@@Ezrider359 you shouldn’t need to totally de-adjust a brake to change a chamber not trying to be a smart ass mate you carry on doing it your way just never seen it done that way
Always one ball buster out there
quick an easy ezra. i keep 4 around all the time. i figure as long as i have them, i wont need them......if i dont have them, you can bet i will need 4!
I always keep a few on hand as well.
Glad to see all the use of never seize or Stevie Wonder paste like we used to call it. I was yelling at the TV for you to loosen the airlines while you were unbolting the air can, but you didn’t listen and had to do it the hard way. 🤣🤣 Good yo see you still plugging along.
You bring back so many good memories of my Dad and I working side by side every weekend. Thank you for your great content brother.
I've had to replace way too many brake chambers here the last couple of months. Had issues with internal leaks, went ahead and changed all four.
Thanks for all your videos, been learning a lot from your work brother...
I think it’s awesome you take the time to explain right down to the wrench socket sizes
That was really helpful... In a different way for me! It's helping me recreate more accurate Models.
It does blow my mind that there's no Backing Plates on those Drum Brakes!!! 😳 I can't imagine a Car or Light Truck without them.
its quite common on semi's to not have backing plates
@@Ezrider359
I'm quickly learning that. I'm guessing that it helps keep the Brakes cooler and dryer, not having a heavy Backing Plate closing in what has to be 5X to 10X the HEAT of a sub 2 Ton Car.
Looking forward for things to slow down and see you back on the peterbilt
Hey just a little tip when doing a pm and service taking some oil "new or used" put a few drops on the clevis and pin and work it in by moving the pin back and forward to keep from rusting up and making it difficult to remove the pin comming from a fleet mechanic
Always good to see folks taking care of the important stuff, thank you so much for your videos, hope you have had a good summer brother, stay safe and healthy.
Before you cut the arm off put the nut on past where you plan to cut. Then once you're done cutting remove the nut. It will clean up the threads.
That’s exactly what I was gonna say
Great video Ezrider---Thanks for taking the time to pass along some of your experience
It's fascinating to watch a diesel technician in action. I still haven't had the chance to work on something this size since graduation. This doesn't make the field I am in, but hope to get into your line of work in the near future... 🤔🧐Thanks for the video. Your content is awesome as always.
im just a owner op rather than a diesel tech but ill take that as a complement.
@@Ezrider359 🤝😎
Run away, and when you get there run some more lol
@@natesaunders5628 ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
As I said before. I am here for the truck work vids. Thankyou for this one. Gave the vid a thumbs up at 410
Good install but on a side note, I'll bet this brake will be unsafe soon. Notice from about 8:32 to 8:45 the slack adjuster anchor stud moves as the slack adjuster rotates. This is caused by the stud and nut no longer gripping the slotted anchor plate tight enough. Over the years I've seen many anchor studs loosen up due to time, corrosion and not much metal surface around the slot to grip to in the first place. This is a common problem that is largely overlooked by drivers, mechanics, safety managers and even certified inspectors. The result can be that the slack adjuster looses its reference and doesn't keep the correct adjustment. Always make sure those anchor studs are tightly mounted to the anchor plate because they do have a tendency to loosen up. Hope I helped. Thanks for your interesting videos, Ezrider359.
i had noticed that at the time of the repair as well.
@@Ezrider359 Ten dash four, sir. Keep up the good work.
@@HowardKelsey68 good set of eyes!
@@rearspeaker6364 Thanks, rearspeaker6364. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Over the decades, I've found many of these "Haldex" type automatic slack adjusters with the 'plate & flat stud' style of anchor bracket to fail my pre-trip inspections due to allowing it's brake to back off out of adjustment. That is not good thing if loaded heavy or empty (or even bobtail) because all of those brakes need to be in proper adjustment for them to function properly and keep us out of the penalty box. Typically, the failure is caused by the flat stud becoming loose on it's plate because the nut securing the flat stud to the plate has very little surface area to clamp down to (a poor design, in my opinion). I've even found many of those flat studs completely GONE (as in so loose, they've fallen off)! This, in turn, causes the slack adjuster to lose its reference allowing it to quit adjusting. Over time and brake applications, the brake backs off and becomes ineffective. Believe me, if you are hauling 65,000 + lbs of sand in the end-dump along at 40 mph on a two-lane with oncoming traffic and a car pulls out in front of you WAY TOO #*!@!*# CLOSE and only your left steer brake is working, you'll know what I'm talking about (and you'll have wished you wore 'Depends' that day) !!!! Brakes need to work properly all the time! We can make sure they do BEFORE a lot easier than we can deal with the results of a deadly collision afterwards. Take care.
Never did much adjusting with the newer adjusters but toted a 9/16ths snap-on combo someone gave me and always set my own brakes. That way I could see how hard I was being on them Pulled them tight and backed off 1/4. Never lost over 1.4 between services so I was doing all right. The other drivers said I'd get fired if they caught me with it. I'd have showed it to them and said to have at it. I only used it when it was time BUT you never knew when one of the old adjusters was going to to spin out. I set other drivers brakes all the time that had bad adjusters that never got changed. I still have the wrench but my mower don't have adjusters! Thanks, Ezra! Burn fuel and GBWYou and Yall!
Yeah, Finally a new video of my favourite mechanic! Best regards from Deutschland
So good to hear from you , hope you've been well and working steady.
Man I love your videos I really learn a lot since I started at a trucking company 2 years ago, but I'm really surprised that you haven't gotten into the Milwaukee m18 fuel line. Try it brother.
Glad to see you back, my first notification came in tonight on one of your video, watching all 3 tonight.
Hope you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the great easy video. You're a mechanical wizard.
Nothing like doing this in a truck stop parking lot in the rain at night and to make it worse it’s cold outside.
This man is inside a controlled clean environment and making it look easy.
It’s much harder after u been driving all day.
That's why I showed how to do a diphram or half can in a different video. Although that repair wouldn't have worked in this case
Flame wrench always helps. I used to fight those clevis pins all the time. You make it look e-z Ezra!
Good stuff Ez.
Very informative and you make it look like even i could do it !!
Lol.
Have a great day bloke.
Cheers from Sydney Australia.
🇦🇺🐨🦘🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
Great video. I am trying to learn watching these ! Why did you not have to cage the spring brake before removing the can ? I just helped a friend put a new can on his crane truck and I compressed the spring before we tried to unbolt the can ? I figured the brake was fully spring applied and it had to be caged before removing! The old can had clevis welded to the piston rod, so Cut it off and welded the new nut to the clevis and threaded the clevis onto the new piston shaft .It worked out nicely but was just curious about the spring brake ! Thanks for the videos !
Thanks so much for showing and sharing your project you are the only one making it much simpler and easier for us to do it millions Thanks great job
Would it be easier to remove the Clevis pin before you dynamite the trailer?
And remove the air lines while brake chamber is still mounted.
How did you check the length of the push rod?
Vise on sale at Canadian tire.
I wouldn’t tighten the jam but till it is connected to the slack adjuster.
Good job, glad to see it worked out for you.
👍👍🎯
Glad you are having some good times! Good to see you!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Done maybe half a thousand of em before I started driving em then I still had to do my own cause there new mechanic couldn't do shit right ??? I always hated doing brake chambers cause doing em right and doing em are two different things.
You did that perfectly, stroke length etc. FINE JOB SIR !!!
All the best to you and yours Sir.
Did I miss the part where you are suppose to cage it? I guess since you replaced the whole can you wouldn’t need to? Thanks for the vid
Thank you for the video! Keep it coming. Love your channel!
Thank you for your great videos. Keep on wrenchin! Greetings from Norway ;)
Great video truckman thanks for the instruction be safe out there
If it helps run the nut up the rod before you cut it. That way you can use the nut to clean up the threads.
When I show them how to change a piece of equipment, I try to tell them the size if the bolts and fittings so they get the right tools.
Thanks for sharing.
👍👍🎯
Loving all your videos!
hay my man you great teacher straight 2 the point,video not with a mumbo jumbo keep up the good work i defintely be watching and subscribing !!!!
I thought the hardest part might be tapping the rod thread... skipped over that one! Thanks for the video.
just cut it off square and then bevel the edges a little bit with the grinder, was shown mabye i could have explained a bit what i was doing.
I always put the jam nut on before l cut it.
@@bradjenkins932 yeah that helps too if you get a burr on the end threading the nut off will roll the burr over and clean up the last thread.
@@Ezrider359 OK... so the rod is threaded all the way? That was not clear, I thought it was unthreaded. Yeah, put the die on the rod, cut it, then roll the die off! Put it on backwards, of course.
The definition of a diesel mechanic
Love watching your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Hey brother very informative video like always, how you and your family holding up brother? Good to hear from you sir. Your friend from Larned kansas Eric Houser.
Pure art. Straight to the point.
No slack adjusters were harmed in the making of this vlog 😁
Or S Cams😆
all i can say amazing job you got thump up from me and i hope everyone watched this video to be fare and give the thump up as well PLEASE,thank you sir for post it and always good luck for you sir.
Always looking forward to your videos
Ezra, where is old Red!!! Missing that good ol' truck, cant wait to see another video on her soon!
I'll try to atleast do a update video on it soon but really just haven't had time to get much done on it
Always good to see ya Ezra!!
I recently purchased an antique truck that does not have double cans. Is the upgrade as easy as just changing them to the newer style? The parking brake is mechanical on the driveshaft.
Ez have u saw the gages u can get for the push rods with the adjuster arrows. there only a couple of bucks for each wheel and after installation it's just a visual and if the pointer is between the two indicaters your good to go we have been using them for 10 years or so and they are fantastic. we have them on a couple hundred trucks. well worth the money less crawling under the vehicle and dot likes to. when they see you are in spec. they usually don't dig any farther. unless its really obvious. BTW that anti seize saves a lot of agrivation I use it on every thing especially if you know u will have to go there again and saves alot of Liquid wrench especially when you're along the road with out it.
Hello I’ve installed a few of theses in my time but my question is this I’ve noticed that a lot of trailers are tandem and not tri axle may I ask why because most of the U.K. ones are tri axle, thanks markUK
Mark paulene In us most all weight limit is 80,000 Tandems will scale it with a tandem trl......tri axles some states will allow you more weight....tandems are typically 34.000 on trl and 34,000 on tractor drives and 12,000 on steer.....tri axles will go to 60,000 on the 3 axles.....the USA is crazy on type of freight you hauling.....example Kentucky allows coal buckets to gross 120,000 lbs on tandem tractor and tandem trl...5 axles...but on on state roadways.....lol. Most all federal highways, interstate, are 80,000 gross unless permits and over 5 axles to meet bridge laws and more axles to meet the weight your hauling.....Hope I didn’t complicate things to much.....lol
Mark paulene I think in his area the state let’s him run around 105,000 lbs with his axles and type of freight he hauls........more crazy is 2 dual wheel axels and 1 single tire axle still allowed 60,000 lbs.....example a tri axle dump truck....20,000 steer with floater tires, and 3 axles on rear
@@kygambler22 hi thanks for your reply, so it's more of a state regulations aswell, over here in the UK it's just one law for all so that's what I thought over there
Mark paulene It would be nice if they uniform the laws but all states have their laws and the feds...government....have theirs.......we pay a fuel tax for every mile ran in every state....I’ve noticed your trailers are about all 3 axle rigs with lots of single axle tractors....in USA a single axle tractor is allowed 20,000 pounds on drive.....a tandem is 34,000 on 2 drives....crazy stuff...
@@kygambler22 hi yeh over here most of our tractors as you call them have one drive axle one lift axle depends on if lift axle is in front of the drive axle it could be a stear axle also. Heavy haulage tends to have two drive axles and some of our trailers have one lift axle, over here we gross at I think 41 tons? use to be 38 total all over the UK thanks oh we pay tax on our fuel not mileage
Cool - dear pro how about the slack adjuster stroke ? thanks a lot.
I dont mess with old yokes I always stock new ones saves time and usually they worn at clevis hole elongated.
Yea the chambers I get from the Pete shop here comes with new clevis pins and yokes.
Always something on these old trucks. Awesome you can do your self. How's project Red? Any Red videos coming? 😀
ill try to get at least a update video in soon. really haven't had time to work on it in a while.
The best explanation ever !!!!
And for all of the backyard techs who have never changed a brake pot (can). Always cage the spring brake first until you thoroughly understand what you're doing. Heavy danger!
Id love to...but I need a 22mm deep socket...as in, the damn thing needs to be a foot long! damn metrique bolts...
@@RipRoaringGarage 22 mm is the same as 7/8. Besides, cagging bolts are 3/4 .
@@RipRoaringGarage I've taken two 3/4 deep sockets and welded them together for cage bolts.
@@bmdbigfeet1031 I was being silly. But, the bus Im talking about is odd...I imported it, so NOTHING is the same, standard or whatnot. And its just a nut, with no catch. I may do a video one day.
his mentioning the size od bolt heads helps ,,when youre under there,its nice to know
Question, why is there a plyer on the old one ?
Another good educational video, thank you for posting!
that was an easy fix lol on the gas axe for the cotter pin i thought the spring brake chambers come with clevis and clevis pin and cotter pin as full kit? looks like your slack adjuster is a bit bent?
Thanks for the great videos, I'm going to be buying a 2015 Mack Pinnacle series, mp8 motor , 12 speed M Drive, I do a lot of mountain driving, going down Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado 80,000 lbs, it a cakewalk with those Jake's. What do think with ratio 2.67 ?
2.67 will put you at a low low rpm while cruising
Thanks, your video about king pins was soooooo helpful. My boss and the owner of the company was so impressed. Thank again.
Also when cutting the shaft to length put the jam nut first run it down and the cut the shaft then back the nut out that would chase the threads putting the clevis on easier
It done well to last that long ay ....changed out many of those ..the hot wrench is a useful tool for trailer work ..
The cap on the break chamber should it alway be kept plugged in? Or it can just hang lose ?
Should be plugging the hole. Leaving it open will reduce the life of the chamber significantly
@@Ezrider359 okay thanks
Glad to see some videos again any more videos on ol red
So if you back of the slack adjuster all the way you don’t need to cage the brakes??
Yup, first release the brakes
How do/did you adjust the slack adjusters? I'm replacing one this weekend. Thanks
Excellent video well done top job top man 👍😷👍😷
اسلموي عليكم ليش مفكيت الرقبت السرفوي وركبته علي السرفوي الاخار معك ايمن المكنكي ديزل من ليبيا
Do you have to release the air before taking out the airline from chamber?
Thank you for another video I appreciate that
Great vid, easy to follow info. Cheers 🍻
O.k. I have a question for anyone that knows. Are all the nuts 15/16 the same on all chassis brake chambers or are they different nut sizes? I need to order some.
the best way to check and see if the brake assembly on any axle is working, check the drum... if its got rust on the inside surface of the drum...the shoes are not making contact. You should not have been able to move that slack adjuster at all with your hand unless the slack adjuster has been turned all the way back... other issues than just that can... normal position brakes are locked up...cant move anything. Released has 120 psi to chamber and you wont move that by hand.
First off...cage the old air can while still mounted and the brakes are released...easier to bet caging bolt in and tightened down. Then back the brake off. TIP: any self adjusting slack adjusters do not work without grease.... grease is very important... grease keeps the ratchet part from gumming up with grim. Even new slack adjuster must be purged after installation... the factory assembly grease does not count... that little arrow the moves on the outside of slack has to be free to catch the next notch of internal mechanism... and $3.00 tube of grease is cheaper than $150 slack adjuster, when you can hit all the slacks with one tube..
wow...lol if there is rust on the brake drum surface that brake has been a out of service volitions for a long time already.
How much do you charge on labor like this? And on brake shoe installation ?
I'm a owner op not a for hire shop
looks like your slack adjuster clevis pin hole is worn out just a bit too much. i saw quite a bit of movement in there when you released the brakes. either way i enjoyed the video .
Yeah the pin had a little more wear than I would have liked. Was a Sunday and everything closed. Should probably grab a few new pins next time I'm picking up parts
@@Ezrider359 i hear you , i sometimes have to wait till next business day to get parts.
I once over tightened the caging bolt and I was right behind the slack adjuster and the caging bolt broke and was hit in the chest by the bottom of the slack adjuster where it meets the rod and thankfully I walked away with only a bruise. Really hurt
Very good my friend thanks gor your video.
Good to see ya on, you must be running hard b4 all that white stuff shows up : ).
Impact wrenches are a great tool, but use a torch FIRST! Hehehe Good stuff! 😎
i was kind of surprised that they came off with just the impact, i figured id have to heat them too but figured id try it first...lol
@@Ezrider359 🇺🇸Did you even have to hit em with Liquid Wrench or anything like that? Most of the trailer parts I’ve taken off were rusted like crazy! Well, you had the torch and that will usually help a great deal. It’s a good time to get those things done...before winter sets in. I have a boat load of projects to get done. Have a great one!🤩
What is the bearing piece called that holds the rod next to the slack adjuster called
The clevis pin is what attaches the rod to the slack. Not sure what bearing piece your talking about?
New to this, how did you get the nut onto the pushrod? Did you have to tap it first?
How is ole red doing and did you have a chance to watch the costum build 65 351 pete on smart trucking on RUclips
Really good job
Excellent job man
Hey bud! I know this is not the right video but what type of huck bolt gun do you have? Looking to buy one. Replacing my roof cap on my 359.
Can you made a video on to clock a 30-30 brake chamber?
i don't have a video specifically on that but this video could be applied to that ruclips.net/video/qxTC01SrWnk/видео.html
@@Ezrider359 Thanks I love your vids you taught me a lot
Hi from spain
Great video
Been replacing air chambers since 1972! On military equipment and commercial equipment
Why I always have turn them darn things to line up the hoses??
Except for the seized bolts! Quick and easy.
yeah it seems everything is always sized on these things
Rust is always a problem in snow country.
If you run your jam nut on before you cut the rod ,then you just back it off to straighten the thread's
My comment got screwed up. You weren't able to read the first part. My question was are you old enough to have been able to rebuild both sides of a 30/30. When I was doing repair both sides had removeable clamps. And the parking brake spring commonly broke and punctured the diaphragm. We always had parts in stock for complete 30/30 reduild.
yeah pretty much everything has a non removable clamp on the park brake side now, i do have a video on changing a service brake diaphragm. i keep half cans and pancakes on hand as well for quick fixes.
Hearing aids and eye surgery are apparently cheap around there. Still i think that ear plugs and safety glasses are even cheaper in the long run. Stay safe.
Uh oh safety police in here
@@chrise3801 Just reminding on some basics. Personally i value all my five senses.