I meant to say the vw power steering pump is hooks straight to the jeep power steering gearbox in the video TDI to Jeep Adapter kits: tdconversions.com/products/vw...
Awesome man! Planning on doing the same to my TJ.. Besides the tdi alh and adapter plate, would you mind listing the other parts/odds and ends, you used to compete your swap? Thanks!
Well for sure you need motor mounts, coolant hoses, intercooler and piping, additional gauges, extra wire/electrical tape, lots of extra bolts and metal for brackets, you will need a tune to make the engine ecu standalone and then depending on the engine you may want injectors too. You can add more performance stuff later if you want.
I got a universal one off ebay, it's not there anymore, but I would try find a bigger one if you can, it's hard though the max width you can have without seriously cutting into the core support and wheel wells is about 25". But all I did was search universal intercooler on eBay and look through them all
@@TDISwaps Gotcha, thanks, I was looking over my Jeep last night and came to the conclusion I'd need to route the IC piping right under the headlights similar to yours, tight fit indeed.
@@zefzone-215 ya I think maybe even an intercooler with bottom inlet/outlet would work better to get the max size. My IATs are warmer than what I would like, but I fight alot of headwinds at high speed, so I'm going to look at deleting the hood latch and getting a more square intercooler, 24x24" would be ideal, but almost have to get it custom made.
Coty build is pretty overpriced, I used TD conversions bell housing adapter, but Whitbread Performance makes it even cheaper now. I made my own motor mounts so I can just use all the VW accessories like alternator and power steering. After parting out the cars I bought for the swap I have about $2500-3000 in each swap
Howdy, sorry if you stated this in the video, but how did you go about hooking up the charge pipes for the inlet and outlet of the cold side of the turbo? Because ain’t there special VW connectors, clamps and flanges?
No worries, I did not go over that. The turbos on the older VWs and the bigger turbos I use have regular silicone boots and clamps. There are some newer turbos (04+) that have quick connectors, I have seen people weld on regular aluminum pipe to those or buy adapter fittings as well.
@@TDISwaps I have an 05. I was thinking that a silicone adapter would be fine for the inlet. But the outlet is a weird quick connection slip fit with a c-clip jawn and I have no idea how I’m about to make that work. Because there’s no smooth surface for a silicone boot.
@@TDISwaps thank you! Also do you know where I can the manufacture torque specs for the 05 bhw? I’ve tried looking it up and I find all different things and i get confused.
@@chrisoneill1954 I usually just take the first post I find on it, there's always random info out there, if you can't find it for BHW specific you can search PD TDIs torque specs, but for general stuff even the ALH specs will work for alot of stuff that's the same
@@manofthecroc Ya for comparison I was getting 9-12 mpg with the 4.0 same conditions. Most guys with a little smaller rigs and slower speed limits are getting 26-30 all the time. where I'm at the speed limits are 80, so i'm getting ran over at 75 lol
So from the tank to the engine you put together the factory Jeep fuel pump and to the factory Volkswagen filter and that was it? You didn’t need to get a fuel for a diesel or from a jeeta or anything?
You need to tee in a return line back to the tank so the factory pump doesn't build pressure, just flow, other than that the gas pump works for diesel just fine. Also if you have a gas fuel filter that needs removed.
@@TDISwaps you didn’t have any problems with the psi or anything? I understand making is flow instead of pressure building. Also since my Jeep had the 2.5 instead of the 4.0 would that make any difference? I don’t know if the pumps are different or anything.
@@chrisoneill1954 should be the same pump since both gas injection systems need 40 PSI to run, there are guys running as much as 20-30 PSI to the TDI injection pump but I wouldn't recommend that, seals will leak very easily. Putting a tee in the line before the fuel pump will drop the pressure to less that 5 PSI.
@@TDISwaps so I'm doing this same swap and the tee is a great way to handle the pressure. Just to be clear did you put it right before the injection pump or before the fuel fliter?
so the tach mainly runs off the crank sensor when you leave the jeeps ecu in place, and it is on the tranny bell housing so you don't have to touch it. but it needs a signal from the cam sensor that was in the 4.0l distributor. You have to save that connector, split off the signal wire, and then connect it to something like a blinker relay that sends the signal to ground on and off a few times just at startup. for mine just one relay click of the cam signal wire to ground as the engine starts turning is enough to kick the crank sensor and tach on
Awesome man! Planning on doing the same to my TJ.. Besides the tdi alh and adapter plate, would you mind listing the other parts/odds and ends, you used to compete your swap? Thanks!
Well for sure you need motor mounts, coolant hoses, intercooler and piping, additional gauges, extra wire/electrical tape, lots of extra bolts and metal for brackets, you will need a tune to make the engine ecu standalone and then depending on the engine you may want injectors too. You can add more performance stuff later if you want.
Looks great man! Quick one for ya, 1:22 which IC did you end up going with?
I got a universal one off ebay, it's not there anymore, but I would try find a bigger one if you can, it's hard though the max width you can have without seriously cutting into the core support and wheel wells is about 25". But all I did was search universal intercooler on eBay and look through them all
@@TDISwaps Gotcha, thanks, I was looking over my Jeep last night and came to the conclusion I'd need to route the IC piping right under the headlights similar to yours, tight fit indeed.
@@zefzone-215 ya I think maybe even an intercooler with bottom inlet/outlet would work better to get the max size. My IATs are warmer than what I would like, but I fight alot of headwinds at high speed, so I'm going to look at deleting the hood latch and getting a more square intercooler, 24x24" would be ideal, but almost have to get it custom made.
Did you buy any parts from Coty Built like the bell housing adapter or the truss member to help with the swap? How much did it cost to swap?
Coty build is pretty overpriced, I used TD conversions bell housing adapter, but Whitbread Performance makes it even cheaper now. I made my own motor mounts so I can just use all the VW accessories like alternator and power steering. After parting out the cars I bought for the swap I have about $2500-3000 in each swap
Howdy, sorry if you stated this in the video, but how did you go about hooking up the charge pipes for the inlet and outlet of the cold side of the turbo? Because ain’t there special VW connectors, clamps and flanges?
No worries, I did not go over that. The turbos on the older VWs and the bigger turbos I use have regular silicone boots and clamps. There are some newer turbos (04+) that have quick connectors, I have seen people weld on regular aluminum pipe to those or buy adapter fittings as well.
@@TDISwaps I have an 05. I was thinking that a silicone adapter would be fine for the inlet. But the outlet is a weird quick connection slip fit with a c-clip jawn and I have no idea how I’m about to make that work. Because there’s no smooth surface for a silicone boot.
@@chrisoneill1954 www.google.com/amp/s/www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/amp/products/clip-connector-adapters-for-egr-asv-turbo-intercooler.html
@@TDISwaps thank you! Also do you know where I can the manufacture torque specs for the 05 bhw? I’ve tried looking it up and I find all different things and i get confused.
@@chrisoneill1954 I usually just take the first post I find on it, there's always random info out there, if you can't find it for BHW specific you can search PD TDIs torque specs, but for general stuff even the ALH specs will work for alot of stuff that's the same
Looks great! What kind of milage are you getting?
Usually 21-24 depending on wind and speed, usually driving 75 mph, drop to 65 mph and it gets up towards 30 mpg very easy
@@TDISwaps not bad at all. Around hear diesel is within a few cents of or some places cheaper then gas.
@@manofthecroc Ya for comparison I was getting 9-12 mpg with the 4.0 same conditions. Most guys with a little smaller rigs and slower speed limits are getting 26-30 all the time. where I'm at the speed limits are 80, so i'm getting ran over at 75 lol
So from the tank to the engine you put together the factory Jeep fuel pump and to the factory Volkswagen filter and that was it? You didn’t need to get a fuel for a diesel or from a jeeta or anything?
You need to tee in a return line back to the tank so the factory pump doesn't build pressure, just flow, other than that the gas pump works for diesel just fine. Also if you have a gas fuel filter that needs removed.
@@TDISwaps you didn’t have any problems with the psi or anything? I understand making is flow instead of pressure building. Also since my Jeep had the 2.5 instead of the 4.0 would that make any difference? I don’t know if the pumps are different or anything.
@@chrisoneill1954 should be the same pump since both gas injection systems need 40 PSI to run, there are guys running as much as 20-30 PSI to the TDI injection pump but I wouldn't recommend that, seals will leak very easily. Putting a tee in the line before the fuel pump will drop the pressure to less that 5 PSI.
@@TDISwaps so I'm doing this same swap and the tee is a great way to handle the pressure. Just to be clear did you put it right before the injection pump or before the fuel fliter?
On the ALH I put the tee before the fuel filter to make sure fuel went through the filter no matter what even if the fuel pump died
How did you get the tach to work?
so the tach mainly runs off the crank sensor when you leave the jeeps ecu in place, and it is on the tranny bell housing so you don't have to touch it. but it needs a signal from the cam sensor that was in the 4.0l distributor. You have to save that connector, split off the signal wire, and then connect it to something like a blinker relay that sends the signal to ground on and off a few times just at startup. for mine just one relay click of the cam signal wire to ground as the engine starts turning is enough to kick the crank sensor and tach on
Mechanical fuel pump?
No both my rigs have 11 mm electronic pumps, I do have a 12 mm mechanical pump I want to play with on something