It isn't just how the part looks. This glossiness, in fact, tells you that the polymer crystallised more and has better mechanical properties. The matt surface finish means that the part didn't get enough energy and is weaker in almost every aspect (tensile strength, temperature resistance, etc).
Yeah this is a good point. Visual indicator that the plastic isn’t getting enough heat. You’d probably be able to bump up the nozzle temp and not have to slow down the outer wall speeds at all.
One additional consideration, given the notion of adjusting the 'minimum layer time': as a way to solve this harsh transition, is that: Your solution would work more effectively if you have a short (5mm) part that takes up half the build volume and a tall (150mm) part that takes up the other half. If you constrain the overall 'minimum layer time' to match the layer time that occurs when both parts are being printed (the first 5mm worth of layers), that would force all of the other 145mms: of the tall part, to print at the same slow pace. But, certainly, Matte finish vs glossy is an indication of extrusion temperature... which does impact the strength/adhesion of a part; whether it's to a significant degree of detriment is dependent on the use-case. @@3DPrintStuff
Sequence printing Print-by-object - Also, an interesting option which may avoid slowing print time is to use sequence printing, called Print-by-object within Bambu Studio! Hope this helps!
That's a great solution but the same issue can occur on a single part too. Had this multiple times and couldn't figure out a way to fix it besides turning down speed so far.
@@wtfpercussion yes it can, just enable the feature print by object, and then select "auto arange" on the top , it will space out the parts maybe a bit too generously, but i use it all the time, in case 1 print fails. i dont have to start over the other ones too. so far , never had a problem.
Good tip! This is probably related with the "minimum layer time" filament configuration, which is preventing the top of that object from printing faster, and since the bottom has that other object, it makes the layer time to be higher, so higher speeds can be reached. If you changed only the bigger part outer wall speed to 100ms it would also probably work, and yeah decreasing the minimum layer time would also improve it and make the print even faster - in this case it could lead to cooling issues, but its worth it trying, I've noticed that for some parts it can be decreased a little bit without any issues.
Isn't there an option to make the nozzle wait somewhere to ensure the minimum layer time instead of printing slower? Switching on "timelapse" may help on some printers. Another option could be switching to "print infill first" and add a small pause to every layer - and turn down the minimum layer time to 0.
@@philipp9800 yep, these options are definitely worth it trying, the results may be good depending on the printer and the filament itself. Unfortunately I didn't have much success with any of those options, by the end of the day I ended up having other issues due to the pausing/resuming process like oozing filament, stringing, precision issues (printing the infill first) - that of course can be mitigated as well, but since it wouldn't necessarily make my prints faster anyways, I realized that what worked best for me was just making sure that the outer wall speed is as more constant as possible by picking an average speed - even if it means reducing a little bit the speed, OR just reducing the minimum layer time. I mean, these new 3d printers has that side fan cooling which helps a lot cooling the parts, so if it doesn't have much overhang you can decrease it safely and reach higher speeds even in small parts.
You wrote it's "preventing the top of that object to print slower", but if you meant the opposite, "forcing the top to print slower", then it makes sense 😅 Physically it could move just as fast, but the layers wouldn't have enough time to cool, so it slows down its movements.
This tip/tag saved my sanity, my love for this hobby, and my wallet. If more people had tutorials like this as a primer 3d printing wouldn't be so difficult of a sell but let me tell you, its a blast when you're invested and fed the right information to produce great prints.
Turn off "slow down printing for better layer cooling" in Filament > Colling , and your all set. no need to slow down print speed just make minor adjustment if needed.
You may also want to pay attention to the cooling of the filament, i.e. the layer time, which also affects the print speed. If the time to be used for the first matte part of the lay
Yeah I didn't even know that was a setting that was having an effect in the background. Makes total sense that the minimum layer time would make the top half move slower which puts more heat in the filament and gives it the shinier look.
Awesome tutorial thanks so mcuh for sharing :). One thing you can do to slow the print speed down is adjust the flow rate in the printer for your material. By default, bambu PLA basic materials print at 21 mm/s. I've found that dropping the flow rate down to 10mm/s keeps everything nice and glossy, the printer will automatically show the print speeds down to match the new flow rate max.
I came here to say this but 10mm^3/s is REALLY overkill. When I first got mine i tested stepping down in increments of 1 and stopped at 17. Works great for me.
Thanks so much for doing this video! I was having a similar issue that'd been driving me nuts on my X1C and P1P with one specific model that was a sphere. For me specifically though, the banding always seemed to line up with where supports were and not a seemingly random height. In the end, the instructions in this video didn't fix my issue BUT the video did point me in the right direction and give me info I needed. Ultimately for me it was a matter of disabling "Slow down for overhangs" when supports are enabled that fixed my issue but I give you full credit for getting me there. Thanks so much!
Hey that's awesome to hear. I'm glad this video was able to steer you in the right direction. I'll keep that "Slow down for overhangs" setting in my back pocket.
I've found that printing PLA at 250 degrees, everything gets glossy and the print still comes out fine without needing to drop speeds. 250 seems crazy but the PLA itself probably doesn't get that hot, it's just necessary to heat it up fully. Try a temp tower up to 270 or so and check how it prints!
That's a good tip, I'll give it a try. Coming from an ender 3 V2 250deg does seem crazy for PLA. But you're probably right, at the higher speeds the PLA probably isn't reaching that temp.
@@3DPrintStuff I did notice maybe more shrinking when printing at 250, so maybe not ideal if you need high accuracy, but I'm still trying to get it dialed in. It's worth a shot anyway!
For PETG Temp and Speed plays a huge role, anyway struggling trying to get a glossy look to your prints, you might have to slow down or increase temps or both.
This is wild! For years, 3d printers would try to get the matte look rather than the glossy PLA look, now that speed makes it matte people want it glossy! Crazy! 😂😂😂
THANK YOU SO MUCH for making this video! someone posted it to the Bambu Lab forum a while back and I found it while googling. I was having a heck of a time trying to figure out why a single-walled light fixture I'm printing was looking like legos - this helped me fix it! Thank you!
I recommend not only looking at Speed differences in the preview, but also at cooling differences. You want these two being as uniform as possible for your parts. I would also not recommend compensating these effects by generally slowing down. This simply turns a very fast printer into a very slow one... I would rather keep the higher speeds, increase my part cooling and change my layer time settings to avoid auto slow down. Bambu-Studio also has dedicated speed settings for overhangs. In case of printing parts with overhangs, that might also need adjustement.
An easier option would be to check the flow rate of the glossy section and set the maximum flow rate of the filament to match. No need to adjust speeds for every print that way, it will be automatically speed limited.
That's another option although not easier. You just need to set print by object and space the objects far enough from each other. For surface quality it's better to print one object at a time if you do not need to print too many or too tall parts so it causes interference. Also you should reduce the flow rate anyway unless you need to print really fast as faster speed produces weaker parts.
@@woopssergwhy do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying. So much nonsense on the Internet of people saying stuff when they don't understand. Stop! Think before you comment. Reducing the maximum flow so all flow is equivalent will eliminate these problems. Some of this is often caused by minimum layer time on small parts. So when you print two objects the speed can increase and when the other object is finished minimum layer time comes into play and slows the speed down causing this visible change in the surface quality.
@@trafton00 "why do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying." "Stop! Think before you comment." That's exactly about you. Printing dissimilar objects sequentially and not at once would avoid rapid change in printing speed to stay within minimum layer time when above certain layer it suddenly needs to print only one object instead of two. Also you can dial down outer wall printing speed instead of maximum flow rate as shown in the video which will give more predictable result. There are different ways to achieve the same result but apparently it's beyond your comprehension. All I said you could just print objects in sequence ("Print sequence: by object" setting) instead of guesstimating maximum flow rate that would be right in filament settings. And FYI I do own X1CC.
@@woopsserg You still don't get it. The issue lies in the interaction between layer time and flow rate. On layers with longer travel lengths, the printer reaches a higher flow rate as it has more time to accelerate, adhering to the minimum layer time. On shorter layers, the printer fails to attain the maximum flow rate, causing a noticeable shift in layer quality. You suggested that printing objects one by one solves this, but it does NOT in all cases. This method falls short as it doesn't address the core problem: the variation in flow rate due to differing layer travel lengths. By setting a controlled, consistent flow rate, the printer can maintain a uniform layer quality regardless of the layer's travel length.
@@3DPrintStuff the flow test is only available in orca. To adjust flow rate limit in bambu studio select edit icon next to your selected filament. Last setting on the first page is max volumetric speed. When set to 8 pla is mostly glossy, but you can reduce it even further.
I had this happen to me as well and found that I had the cooling fan turning on after X layers and being at full blast. Adjusting the cooling fan for the print resulted in a more uniform print.
Increasing the nozzle temp is definitely another way to try and correct this change in appearance on the parts. Have you already tried this? How did it turn out?
you could also just changed the minimum layer time to prevent slowdown, if bambu allows that lol, but in my experience, after this is tuned you might want to raise temps unless it's "mat filament". Glossy means better layer adhesion most of the time. printing at those speeds, you need to ignore recommended temps
Yeah minimum layer time would have probably been the more rock solid way to solve this. I think outer wall speed is just a super simple concept to understand and adjust.
Yes, it's good that this is being addressed, although the behavior is, of course, logically explainable. The filament needs the opportunity to cool down a bit. When you have many parts or large, extensive parts, the filament cools down, and if the number of parts decreases, leaving only this super thin ring, the speed drops significantly to give the filament the chance to cool down; otherwise, the print would fail completely.
Yeah, nice. The other thing that may achieve the same end, but might be more risky to a suscessful print is, in the Filament Cooling tab, to uncheck 'Slow printing down for better layer cooling'
I believe it is better to change "Max volumetric speed" in filament settings. Which do basically the same, top speed is limited to the (volumetric) speed which still works for this filament.
I'll have to check this out. Sounds like that is a global change that will effect every print going forward with the filament that has this setting changed. I like the control of changing the outer wall speed on a print by print basis. But that's just personal preference. Your suggestion would be set and forget, wouldn't have to think about it again.
@@3DPrintStuff it is personal preference. I started with various print settings, probably as you, but finaly end with basically one print settings (defines what is printer capable of + nozzle diameter, layer height, acceleration of each wall, surface, infill and so) and settings for each filament which also limits max volumetric speed which can be used regardles of e.g. nozzle size. With this, I can easily use the same print profile for print e.g. ABS as well as TPU without any further modifications of profile (well, few exceptions as support, wall count, infill type and density are stil object per object).
No, the max volumetric rate is used to prevent situations where the hotend can't heat the filament fast enough to fully melt it, at high printing speeds. Its correct value depends on the hotend, the filament, and printing temperature. If you lower it for cosmetic reasons, you can certainly make the printer slow down, but then it will waste time printing the infill and inner perimeters slowly. Here, only the flow rate (printing speed) of external perimeters is causing the cosmetic issue.
@@renxula external perimeters is only thing I have set lower (to about 200mm/s). Everything else is driven by max volumetric speed only and it works like charm to me for several years. Each filament has set own max volumetric speed in its profile and that's the only "speed" settings I'm doing with new (type of) filament.
The speed is limited by max volumetric speed in filament settings. When printing on high speeds you reach the limit of max volumetric speed, so slicer changes other speeds accordingly. To keep stable speed on all model parts you need to print lover than max volumetric speed.
Most probably is has to do with min layer time. Could try so reduce that parameter, and keep speed as it was. Should get everything printed faster, and same speed through entire print.
This phenomenon can also be caused by the minimal time for a layer, which is set in the cooling-options of the material. If the layer takes less than the specified minimal time (in my case 8s), the print will get slowed down. I'm not sure if it is a good idea to set this too low or even deactivate this mechanism, because it is meant to give the layer enough time to cool down, but I think, this is also a cause for the different speeds. Sadly, there is no option like "keep the same print-speed, but wait outside of the part for the remaining time". I don't know if that would cause other problems, but it might be worth a try...
Interesting! But why does the slicer do this? Have you set a minimum layer time? Or maybe the filament profile has an override for that setting? That would explain why it slows down the printing speed after the other part is done: since there's less to print on each layer, it has to slow down in order to give the filament enough time to cool. In the individually sliced part, the bottom 5 layers show up green in the preview. Even though you said it's perfectly even, I can see the same transition at just 1mm height in the finished part. This would also be explained by minimum layer time, since there's more stuff to print in the base, and above that it's just thin walls that would be completed too quickly if it wasn't slowed down.
Thank you for this video. The information was very helpful and your explanation was easy to understand. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information.
I have been trying out a small increment of fuzzy skin to make better looking outer layers and have had some very good success in hiding the layers and seams, I have also been making some decorative ribs to hide seams, I also use Matte PLA and CF PLA to hide the layer lines. Is the Bambu Basic PLA meant to be matt or glossy?
This is very helpful. Thank you! Have you encountered any issues with wall bulge at the wall transition (from base floor to wall)? I've been trying to find ways to remove it but still can't figure how. If you know how to solve that, please share.
Pretty sure you can also use a cube modifier and put it over that top half and force the speed to stay higher and keep the speed and matte finish rather than slowing the entire print down to be gloss instead. I'll be making a video and experiment with this too.
That's a good idea. Mine is just the lazy way. I've also seen models where the banding happens in multiple different locations and that would be a pain to paint. Let me know when you release your video, I'm curious to see the results.
This parameter seems like the best option, then regardless of other settings a maximum calculation will limit the printer to a speed that will let the filament get to temp
@@Gw2Zoke I basically only change max flow, min layer time, acceleration, and strength/layer height now. With modern slicers and a calibrated printer, speed is addressed by these parameters and doesn't need to be manually changed. Keep it at 500 and let the printer purr. I guess the one speed setting that should be manually adjusted is overhang speed.
I printed the benchy on its own with no other models on the plate. I used Bambu PLA Basic filament, using the default Bambu PLA Basic profile/settings in Bambu Studio, I did this on the A1 Mini and the X1C, in both cases the benchy turned out shiny/matt like this. I have never experienced this before on my Ender printers. It seems to be a pretty bad issue with the Bambu's PLA Basic. TBH, left me underwhelmed with Bambu printers that are supposed to just produce great prints out of the box with very little setup or tweaking.
I assume the reason it's slowing down once it's printing only the one part is probably the minimum layer time. You could try and decrease that value, but you gotta make sure that cooling is still sufficient then. This should not be a problem on bigger prints though.
@@MichaelPetito it's definetely the wrong way to handle this by the slicer, it should check for cross-section width and fan speeds and adjust min resting time depending on that
The PETcarbon fiber always comes out perfectly uniform and matt. It's just theregular PET that does that. Is it possible to print everything matt and still get good strength? Thank you so much for the tip.
You'd have to test and find out. On this print there wasn't any obvious difference in strength between the matte and glossy portions. But I didn't put it under load. So there weren't any issues with layer adhesion but they could show up if the part was put under load.
Dude this is awesome, I was wondering what the hell was happening before with some parts where you see these defects when you have writing or other elements on the outer wall
I'm having some problems with marks on the pieces, similar to your piece on the left at the beginning of the video. It's happening just on the right side of the table. It's as if the layers have space between them. Very common in conventional printers. Do you have a video that teaches you how to fix this? Or could you tell me what the name of the problem would be so that I can search for a solution. Mine is the A1 mini
the color difference comes from "minimum layer time" it just prints the upper part slower then the ones below. if you have enough cooling you can reduce the minimum layer time or dont let it slow down. you did the other way where speed reduction equals your outer wall speed. (maybe orca/bambu removed the settings for this.. minimum layer time is a standard setting in prusa/super slicer under filament tab)
This is a feature that exists in Bambu Studio that I was not aware of at the time of filming this video. I still like the simplicity of slowing down outer walls. I should make a follow-up video about minimum layer time.
Well this simple video and concise explanation definitely earned a subscription from me. Thank you. 🙏🙏 Time now to check out your other content and see what I can learn 👍👍😎👍👍
yeah that's just due to how they sliced it. They're aiming for speed so that's how it turns out. The file on the sd card is already sliced so you won't be able to modify it. If you want to change the way it was sliced you'll have to download the STL for the benchy: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy and slice it yourself.
Looks mostly to be a temperature issue caused by changing flow/print speed. I'd prolly look at that if I wanted to maintain a low-as-possible print time.
Yeah, increase nozzle temp if you want to keep the speed (less reliable), or limit max flow rate to make sure the filamrnt has enough time to heat up and isn't pushed out too quickly
I had this happen when I only had one item on the bed. It made rings around where it said bambu lab on the bin I made. Why would it be doing different speeds for different sections of the bin?
The upper part is printing slow because it reaches the lowest time limit between layers and slows down. The solution is to ”wait” if minimum layer time is reached instead of slowing it down to be within that limit
Didn't really mention the root cause of the issue though: 'Minimum Layer Time'. That's why it slows down. And there's to ways to go about it really. Either slow the speed to match the minimum layer time on the quickest layer - OR - lower the minimum layer time to match the desired speed on the quickest layer.
Yeah at the time of filming I wasn’t even aware of minimum layer time. Coming from an ender 3 v2 that thing didn’t go fast enough for minimum layer times to even be a concern. Thinking of making a follow up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah that's fair, I experienced the same thing coming from Ender 5/6/C10. Used to set up prints by speed but now on the Bambus 'Max Flow Rate' and 'Minimum Layer Time' often become the limiting factors instead.
i found another way go to click to edit preset ( button next to preset e.g Bambu PLA Basic) go to cooling tab find "minimum printing speed" default is 20mm/s change it to match outer wall speed e.g 200 mm/s 200mm/s gives you a matte finish .
looking at that bambu studio has the min layer time to low so it slows down. i would guess each of those layers once its one part is less than 5 seconds if at 200mm/s
@ellieelias6336 Hey I don't think this is a toggleable setting... I just did some looking around in the settings and there is no option for "allow adding to playlists" or something similar. I just made a new test playlist of my own and can't come across any videos that won't let me add them to the playlist. I did have an issue where the add blocker I'm using didn't display the "save" button so I had to disable add blocker. Maybe try again and let me know if it's still an issue?
that's also a low infill print, so the bigger prints with a lot of infill it won't hurt you as much on time, because lower % of the print are walls. Another variable is that a high percentage of that 25 minutes is the bed leveling and all that stuff, doesn't that take like 8 minutes or something? So anyway my point is there are a lot of variables, but for the most part lowering the outer wall speed won't hurt the time much. Also not 100% sure but I think part of what decides the difference in speed / flow is overhangs, so you can play with those speeds, outer wall speeds, etc. and don't necessarily have to drop it by 50% might get away with less, maybe 150 instead of 100? idk just some random thoughts. Anyway thanks for posting this I was really getting annoyed by this problem, and didn't know about that speed/flow view thing.
Hello. I have the same problem here at Bambu Lab P1s. However, when checking the outer wall temperature, flow and speed, the object appears completely uniform in the preview. However, the layer time is what presents a huge variation in different parts of the object, causing each part of it to have a different finish between matte and glossy. And it's very clear. Is there any way to get around this problem? I tested it on 10 different brands of filaments, with the Benchy print, and the problem persists on all brands.
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin. You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
To me this seems to be minimum layer time causing this. After the first part is done, the printer has to do a lot less work per layer, so it slows down to still reach its minimum layer time. That's why the individual object is printed in the orange range completely, and not partially in the green range.
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin. You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
How do you handle your chamber temp when printing PLA? when i print PLA with 55 degree bed temperature, my chamber hits 38°C easily, with door 5cm open and top lid rose with spacers (unable to take off, i have AMS). Im thinking to put another fan in there to vent the hot air out, placed at the back, on the stand where the VOC Filter opening is, so that is blows in direction of the door. I have the feeling that when the temp in the chamber gets too hot, my overhangs start to get worse.... because PLA likes it pretty cold haha
Still something that I'm dealing with myself. My printer is in a unheated garage so this past winter (-25°C) I had the opposite problem where I actually had to use a little space heater in a grow tent to bump the temperature up a bit to be above freezing. Now that it's summer and we're seeing +25°C I print with the door wide open. A fan won't do much in my case cause you're still pulling hot air into the printer. I've still been pretty happy with the print quality so I don't feel the need to explore more options yet. Let me know if you land on a good solution.
Layer time is really just adjusting speed/flow rate via a different setting. You're basically adjusting the same thing. Lowering the outer wall speed just makes sure you get a consistent look across your entire print.
Actually no thats not true. Test it. If you print a cube at a fast speed with a low layer time you'll get a shinyish finish. If you print the same cube at the same speed on the outer wall but drastically slow down the infill such that the layer time in total is 25 secs or so you'll end up with a matte finish. This is because the layer below it has had time to cool down and doesnt get reheated by the layer above. Ive done many tests on this and this is the cause of a lot of the banding people see on the X1C with PLA. As I said above you can mitigate it by slowing everything else (other than the outer layer) down. If you slow the outer layer below 100mm/s you seem to get print artefacts on the X1C. @@3DPrintStuff
I'm havinge the same problem on a benchy and been looking for a solution all day long, it's party glossy, part matt. The only way I found to get it all glossy is to lower the max volumetric speed to 2. Can that be right? I'm pretty new at this
Yeah that’s one way to do it. Basically the glossy portion is getting more heat than the matt portion. By lowering the max volumetric flow rate you’ve slowed down the print, allowing for more heat to get into the plastic. This can also be achieved by lowering the speed of the outer walls or increasing the print temp. But increasing the print temp can come with some undesirable features on other parts of your print. If you want to try and achieve matt everywhere you can go into the filament profile settings and reduce the minimum layer time to zero.
@@3DPrintStuff thx for the answer. Matt or glossy doesnt really matter at the moment. As long as it isnt a mix 😆. I will try to lower outer wall speed. Thx
I found a bug in bambu studio. Sometimes these artifacts show in splice but adjusting height of layer makes it equal all over. if you save it as 0.16 then open it it sometimes show artifact. if you then change to say 0.2mm it will make arrifacts dissappear. if you save then as 0.2 next time it has artifacts at 0.2....but if you rhen adjust back to 0.16 it no longer show artifacts. bug is especially visible if you have ironing on printed models
You can still use the same technique to make the appearance of a single part more uniform. My video just happens to be 2 parts on the build plate but I've seen this on single parts also. You can also check the minimum layer time. I feel like they've made this value too high on most of their filament profiles.
Yeah, seam issues are a common complaint on these printers. I'm working on a seam video. You can try setting the seam to "random" but I find that can look even worse with some filaments, especially silk pla.
In fact, it is common in general for the color to change as the layer rises. I don't know why, in Bambu studio the printer speed slows down as the piece is nearing the end and this image appears. I haven't found a solution for this. Not only for binary parts but also for single parts, especially when printing complex and large parts, the printer speed slows down towards the last layers and this causes the color change. If anyone knows the solution, please write.
Have you played around with lowering "minimum layer times"? lots of models get smaller as they reach the top and bambu default settings are pretty generous with minimum layer times so the printer will slow down those layers with less surface area on them causing the color change. This forum post sounds similar to what you're describing forum.bambulab.com/t/print-slows-down-over-time/13498
It isn't just how the part looks. This glossiness, in fact, tells you that the polymer crystallised more and has better mechanical properties. The matt surface finish means that the part didn't get enough energy and is weaker in almost every aspect (tensile strength, temperature resistance, etc).
Yeah this is a good point. Visual indicator that the plastic isn’t getting enough heat. You’d probably be able to bump up the nozzle temp and not have to slow down the outer wall speeds at all.
People are wicked smart in this 3d printing world.
@@burrbentine No, just knowledge that comes with time (a few years) using a 3D printer.
One additional consideration, given the notion of adjusting the 'minimum layer time': as a way to solve this harsh transition, is that: Your solution would work more effectively if you have a short (5mm) part that takes up half the build volume and a tall (150mm) part that takes up the other half. If you constrain the overall 'minimum layer time' to match the layer time that occurs when both parts are being printed (the first 5mm worth of layers), that would force all of the other 145mms: of the tall part, to print at the same slow pace.
But, certainly, Matte finish vs glossy is an indication of extrusion temperature... which does impact the strength/adhesion of a part; whether it's to a significant degree of detriment is dependent on the use-case. @@3DPrintStuff
OK sure but u can still make the highest quality filament look just as bad as cheap filament with the wrong print settings
Sequence printing Print-by-object - Also, an interesting option which may avoid slowing print time is to use sequence printing, called Print-by-object within Bambu Studio! Hope this helps!
This is a good suggestion. I haven't really played around with Print-By-Object out of fear of causing unnecessary collisions.
@@3DPrintStuffimpossible to collide as slicer makes sure there enough space between
That's a great solution but the same issue can occur on a single part too. Had this multiple times and couldn't figure out a way to fix it besides turning down speed so far.
@@wtfpercussion yes it can, just enable the feature print by object, and then select "auto arange" on the top , it will space out the parts maybe a bit too generously, but i use it all the time, in case 1 print fails. i dont have to start over the other ones too. so far , never had a problem.
@axel_fagerberg yup, just right click an empty spot on the build plate and select "Auto Arrange" and the slicer deals with it by itself
Not enough people are talking about this. This helped me a lot.
Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the sub.
This is the type of thing they should put on TV, on the news.
Awesome video. Straight to the piint, no stupid intros or talking for 20 minutes. Good job. Thank you!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment
Good tip! This is probably related with the "minimum layer time" filament configuration, which is preventing the top of that object from printing faster, and since the bottom has that other object, it makes the layer time to be higher, so higher speeds can be reached. If you changed only the bigger part outer wall speed to 100ms it would also probably work, and yeah decreasing the minimum layer time would also improve it and make the print even faster - in this case it could lead to cooling issues, but its worth it trying, I've noticed that for some parts it can be decreased a little bit without any issues.
This explains it! I was so confused why this would happen.
Yep, came here to say that.
Isn't there an option to make the nozzle wait somewhere to ensure the minimum layer time instead of printing slower?
Switching on "timelapse" may help on some printers. Another option could be switching to "print infill first" and add a small pause to every layer - and turn down the minimum layer time to 0.
@@philipp9800 yep, these options are definitely worth it trying, the results may be good depending on the printer and the filament itself. Unfortunately I didn't have much success with any of those options, by the end of the day I ended up having other issues due to the pausing/resuming process like oozing filament, stringing, precision issues (printing the infill first) - that of course can be mitigated as well, but since it wouldn't necessarily make my prints faster anyways, I realized that what worked best for me was just making sure that the outer wall speed is as more constant as possible by picking an average speed - even if it means reducing a little bit the speed, OR just reducing the minimum layer time. I mean, these new 3d printers has that side fan cooling which helps a lot cooling the parts, so if it doesn't have much overhang you can decrease it safely and reach higher speeds even in small parts.
You wrote it's "preventing the top of that object to print slower", but if you meant the opposite, "forcing the top to print slower", then it makes sense 😅 Physically it could move just as fast, but the layers wouldn't have enough time to cool, so it slows down its movements.
This tip/tag saved my sanity, my love for this hobby, and my wallet. If more people had tutorials like this as a primer 3d printing wouldn't be so difficult of a sell but let me tell you, its a blast when you're invested and fed the right information to produce great prints.
Glad it helped. It can be a bit of a money pit but it's worth it when prints turn out the way you want them to.
Turn off "slow down printing for better layer cooling" in Filament > Colling , and your all set. no need to slow down print speed just make minor adjustment if needed.
You may also want to pay attention to the cooling of the filament, i.e. the layer time, which also affects the print speed. If the time to be used for the first matte part of the lay
Yeah I didn't even know that was a setting that was having an effect in the background. Makes total sense that the minimum layer time would make the top half move slower which puts more heat in the filament and gives it the shinier look.
@@3DPrintStuffAnyone found out how to change layer time? ( I know the setting from Cura) but can't find anything similar in Bambu Studio...
@@autofctrlYes, filament settings. Then cooling
@@3DPrintStuffThat was exactly the problem with your pieces.
@@kilevine2359Thx a lot :)
This is really cool! should definitely be a setting you can check to say something like "Standardize Outer Wall Speed"
Great video! Straight to the point. Rare these days on youtube.
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
This is the reason i just subscribed.
Got me to subscribe.
Awesome tutorial thanks so mcuh for sharing :).
One thing you can do to slow the print speed down is adjust the flow rate in the printer for your material. By default, bambu PLA basic materials print at 21 mm/s. I've found that dropping the flow rate down to 10mm/s keeps everything nice and glossy, the printer will automatically show the print speeds down to match the new flow rate max.
That's a great tip to set and forget. Don't have to adjust settings on a per print basis.
I came here to say this but 10mm^3/s is REALLY overkill. When I first got mine i tested stepping down in increments of 1 and stopped at 17. Works great for me.
Thanks so much for doing this video! I was having a similar issue that'd been driving me nuts on my X1C and P1P with one specific model that was a sphere. For me specifically though, the banding always seemed to line up with where supports were and not a seemingly random height. In the end, the instructions in this video didn't fix my issue BUT the video did point me in the right direction and give me info I needed. Ultimately for me it was a matter of disabling "Slow down for overhangs" when supports are enabled that fixed my issue but I give you full credit for getting me there. Thanks so much!
Hey that's awesome to hear. I'm glad this video was able to steer you in the right direction. I'll keep that "Slow down for overhangs" setting in my back pocket.
Straight to the point and easy to understand, thank you 🙏🏼
You're welcome, Thanks for the comment.
I've found that printing PLA at 250 degrees, everything gets glossy and the print still comes out fine without needing to drop speeds. 250 seems crazy but the PLA itself probably doesn't get that hot, it's just necessary to heat it up fully. Try a temp tower up to 270 or so and check how it prints!
That's a good tip, I'll give it a try. Coming from an ender 3 V2 250deg does seem crazy for PLA. But you're probably right, at the higher speeds the PLA probably isn't reaching that temp.
@@3DPrintStuff I did notice maybe more shrinking when printing at 250, so maybe not ideal if you need high accuracy, but I'm still trying to get it dialed in. It's worth a shot anyway!
For PETG Temp and Speed plays a huge role, anyway struggling trying to get a glossy look to your prints, you might have to slow down or increase temps or both.
This is wild! For years, 3d printers would try to get the matte look rather than the glossy PLA look, now that speed makes it matte people want it glossy! Crazy! 😂😂😂
THANK YOU SO MUCH for making this video! someone posted it to the Bambu Lab forum a while back and I found it while googling. I was having a heck of a time trying to figure out why a single-walled light fixture I'm printing was looking like legos - this helped me fix it! Thank you!
I recommend not only looking at Speed differences in the preview, but also at cooling differences. You want these two being as uniform as possible for your parts.
I would also not recommend compensating these effects by generally slowing down.
This simply turns a very fast printer into a very slow one...
I would rather keep the higher speeds, increase my part cooling and change my layer time settings to avoid auto slow down.
Bambu-Studio also has dedicated speed settings for overhangs.
In case of printing parts with overhangs, that might also need adjustement.
whats a good min fan layer time? and max fan layer time ? i can't seem to understando how that works
I solved it thanks to you! Thank you very much!
An easier option would be to check the flow rate of the glossy section and set the maximum flow rate of the filament to match. No need to adjust speeds for every print that way, it will be automatically speed limited.
That's another option although not easier. You just need to set print by object and space the objects far enough from each other. For surface quality it's better to print one object at a time if you do not need to print too many or too tall parts so it causes interference. Also you should reduce the flow rate anyway unless you need to print really fast as faster speed produces weaker parts.
@@woopssergwhy do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying. So much nonsense on the Internet of people saying stuff when they don't understand. Stop! Think before you comment. Reducing the maximum flow so all flow is equivalent will eliminate these problems. Some of this is often caused by minimum layer time on small parts. So when you print two objects the speed can increase and when the other object is finished minimum layer time comes into play and slows the speed down causing this visible change in the surface quality.
@@trafton00 "why do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying." "Stop! Think before you comment." That's exactly about you. Printing dissimilar objects sequentially and not at once would avoid rapid change in printing speed to stay within minimum layer time when above certain layer it suddenly needs to print only one object instead of two. Also you can dial down outer wall printing speed instead of maximum flow rate as shown in the video which will give more predictable result. There are different ways to achieve the same result but apparently it's beyond your comprehension. All I said you could just print objects in sequence ("Print sequence: by object" setting) instead of guesstimating maximum flow rate that would be right in filament settings. And FYI I do own X1CC.
@@woopsserg You still don't get it. The issue lies in the interaction between layer time and flow rate. On layers with longer travel lengths, the printer reaches a higher flow rate as it has more time to accelerate, adhering to the minimum layer time. On shorter layers, the printer fails to attain the maximum flow rate, causing a noticeable shift in layer quality.
You suggested that printing objects one by one solves this, but it does NOT in all cases. This method falls short as it doesn't address the core problem: the variation in flow rate due to differing layer travel lengths. By setting a controlled, consistent flow rate, the printer can maintain a uniform layer quality regardless of the layer's travel length.
@@trafton00 You don't get that I completely get it. Now re-read what I wrote.
Changing the minimum layer time settings are another possible fix, if they are overly restrictive, but I'm a cura user.
You can print the flow test in orca slicer and pick a flow rate limit in the material properties. Bambu PLA stays glossy to about 8mm3/s @220C.
This is good to know. I haven't used orca slicer at all yet. Any other features you use that are exclusively on orca slicer?
@@3DPrintStuff the flow test is only available in orca. To adjust flow rate limit in bambu studio select edit icon next to your selected filament. Last setting on the first page is max volumetric speed. When set to 8 pla is mostly glossy, but you can reduce it even further.
@@3DPrintStuff i just use orca for the calibration tools and bambu studio for the rest
I had this happen to me as well and found that I had the cooling fan turning on after X layers and being at full blast. Adjusting the cooling fan for the print resulted in a more uniform print.
Very helpful. Thank you. I may try increasing nozzle temperature to see if that also might correct consistency and remove that transition in the print
Increasing the nozzle temp is definitely another way to try and correct this change in appearance on the parts.
Have you already tried this? How did it turn out?
you could also just changed the minimum layer time to prevent slowdown, if bambu allows that lol, but in my experience, after this is tuned you might want to raise temps unless it's "mat filament". Glossy means better layer adhesion most of the time. printing at those speeds, you need to ignore recommended temps
Yeah minimum layer time would have probably been the more rock solid way to solve this. I think outer wall speed is just a super simple concept to understand and adjust.
Yes, it's good that this is being addressed, although the behavior is, of course, logically explainable. The filament needs the opportunity to cool down a bit. When you have many parts or large, extensive parts, the filament cools down, and if the number of parts decreases, leaving only this super thin ring, the speed drops significantly to give the filament the chance to cool down; otherwise, the print would fail completely.
Yeah, nice. The other thing that may achieve the same end, but might be more risky to a suscessful print is, in the Filament Cooling tab, to uncheck 'Slow printing down for better layer cooling'
I'll have to look into this.
I believe it is better to change "Max volumetric speed" in filament settings. Which do basically the same, top speed is limited to the (volumetric) speed which still works for this filament.
I'll have to check this out. Sounds like that is a global change that will effect every print going forward with the filament that has this setting changed. I like the control of changing the outer wall speed on a print by print basis. But that's just personal preference. Your suggestion would be set and forget, wouldn't have to think about it again.
@@3DPrintStuff it is personal preference.
I started with various print settings, probably as you, but finaly end with basically one print settings (defines what is printer capable of + nozzle diameter, layer height, acceleration of each wall, surface, infill and so) and settings for each filament which also limits max volumetric speed which can be used regardles of e.g. nozzle size.
With this, I can easily use the same print profile for print e.g. ABS as well as TPU without any further modifications of profile (well, few exceptions as support, wall count, infill type and density are stil object per object).
No, the max volumetric rate is used to prevent situations where the hotend can't heat the filament fast enough to fully melt it, at high printing speeds. Its correct value depends on the hotend, the filament, and printing temperature. If you lower it for cosmetic reasons, you can certainly make the printer slow down, but then it will waste time printing the infill and inner perimeters slowly. Here, only the flow rate (printing speed) of external perimeters is causing the cosmetic issue.
@@renxula external perimeters is only thing I have set lower (to about 200mm/s). Everything else is driven by max volumetric speed only and it works like charm to me for several years.
Each filament has set own max volumetric speed in its profile and that's the only "speed" settings I'm doing with new (type of) filament.
The speed is limited by max volumetric speed in filament settings. When printing on high speeds you reach the limit of max volumetric speed, so slicer changes other speeds accordingly.
To keep stable speed on all model parts you need to print lover than max volumetric speed.
This was excellent, informative and to the point. Thanks for showing me this about my new printer.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
But why is it printing outer wall at different speeds within that object? Does it have to do with the min layer time?
Most probably is has to do with min layer time. Could try so reduce that parameter, and keep speed as it was. Should get everything printed faster, and same speed through entire print.
This phenomenon can also be caused by the minimal time for a layer, which is set in the cooling-options of the material. If the layer takes less than the specified minimal time (in my case 8s), the print will get slowed down.
I'm not sure if it is a good idea to set this too low or even deactivate this mechanism, because it is meant to give the layer enough time to cool down, but I think, this is also a cause for the different speeds.
Sadly, there is no option like "keep the same print-speed, but wait outside of the part for the remaining time". I don't know if that would cause other problems, but it might be worth a try...
Great video! I had the same exact thing happening and didn't even know how to phrase the question. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this - this was my exact problem and I got as far as the speed view in Preview - I’ll try changing the speed on the outer wall.
Thanks!
No problem! Thanks for the super thanks!
I've noticed when a print is done with another thing it tends to be less perfect, and changing speed also changes gloss
Interesting! But why does the slicer do this? Have you set a minimum layer time? Or maybe the filament profile has an override for that setting? That would explain why it slows down the printing speed after the other part is done: since there's less to print on each layer, it has to slow down in order to give the filament enough time to cool.
In the individually sliced part, the bottom 5 layers show up green in the preview. Even though you said it's perfectly even, I can see the same transition at just 1mm height in the finished part. This would also be explained by minimum layer time, since there's more stuff to print in the base, and above that it's just thin walls that would be completed too quickly if it wasn't slowed down.
Great video - short on the point. Again learned something. Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
and no annoying music either, well produced. thanks.
Thank you for this video. The information was very helpful and your explanation was easy to understand. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
I have been trying out a small increment of fuzzy skin to make better looking outer layers and have had some very good success in hiding the layers and seams, I have also been making some decorative ribs to hide seams, I also use Matte PLA and CF PLA to hide the layer lines.
Is the Bambu Basic PLA meant to be matt or glossy?
This helped with an entirely unrelated issue I'm having within a completely different slicer... thank you! 😂
Glad I could help! Most FDM printing issues are transferable from one slicer/printer to the next. What slicer/printer are you using?
This is very helpful. Thank you! Have you encountered any issues with wall bulge at the wall transition (from base floor to wall)? I've been trying to find ways to remove it but still can't figure how. If you know how to solve that, please share.
Pretty sure you can also use a cube modifier and put it over that top half and force the speed to stay higher and keep the speed and matte finish rather than slowing the entire print down to be gloss instead. I'll be making a video and experiment with this too.
That's a good idea. Mine is just the lazy way. I've also seen models where the banding happens in multiple different locations and that would be a pain to paint. Let me know when you release your video, I'm curious to see the results.
the speed and flow also effect strength, too slow or too fast weaken the part
Cheers mate! Actual 10/10 video.
Thanks! Love to hear that.
This is a result of maximum flow settings. Decrease your maximum flow to one that comes out nice and the slicer will adjust.
This parameter seems like the best option, then regardless of other settings a maximum calculation will limit the printer to a speed that will let the filament get to temp
@@Gw2Zoke I basically only change max flow, min layer time, acceleration, and strength/layer height now. With modern slicers and a calibrated printer, speed is addressed by these parameters and doesn't need to be manually changed. Keep it at 500 and let the printer purr.
I guess the one speed setting that should be manually adjusted is overhang speed.
I printed the benchy on its own with no other models on the plate. I used Bambu PLA Basic filament, using the default Bambu PLA Basic profile/settings in Bambu Studio, I did this on the A1 Mini and the X1C, in both cases the benchy turned out shiny/matt like this. I have never experienced this before on my Ender printers. It seems to be a pretty bad issue with the Bambu's PLA Basic. TBH, left me underwhelmed with Bambu printers that are supposed to just produce great prints out of the box with very little setup or tweaking.
I assume the reason it's slowing down once it's printing only the one part is probably the minimum layer time. You could try and decrease that value, but you gotta make sure that cooling is still sufficient then. This should not be a problem on bigger prints though.
I'll have to look into this.
This is absolutely due to minimum layer time which is why the slower print speed doesn't change the overall print time much.
@@MichaelPetito it's definetely the wrong way to handle this by the slicer, it should check for cross-section width and fan speeds and adjust min resting time depending on that
I been having this issue so I'm going to try this tonight, thank you sir
Let me know how it goes.
Can’t you change the sitings to print the items separately on that plate. As well change the speed, flow just for the bowl item
The PETcarbon fiber always comes out perfectly uniform and matt. It's just theregular PET that does that. Is it possible to print everything matt and still get good strength? Thank you so much for the tip.
You'd have to test and find out. On this print there wasn't any obvious difference in strength between the matte and glossy portions. But I didn't put it under load. So there weren't any issues with layer adhesion but they could show up if the part was put under load.
Dude this is awesome, I was wondering what the hell was happening before with some parts where you see these defects when you have writing or other elements on the outer wall
Glad you found I useful. Yeah there’s a bunch of situations where this shows up, I should make a video trying to outline all of them.
Can I slow do the speed on the first few layers? Would that help my bottom layers come out even better?
The default profile already makes the first few layers move slower but if you wanted to you could slow it down even more.
This is very useful! thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
I'm having some problems with marks on the pieces, similar to your piece on the left at the beginning of the video. It's happening just on the right side of the table. It's as if the layers have space between them. Very common in conventional printers. Do you have a video that teaches you how to fix this? Or could you tell me what the name of the problem would be so that I can search for a solution.
Mine is the A1 mini
I appreciate this video being to the point. I learned something too. Thank you.
You're welcome, glad you found it useful.
the color difference comes from "minimum layer time" it just prints the upper part slower then the ones below. if you have enough cooling you can reduce the minimum layer time or dont let it slow down.
you did the other way where speed reduction equals your outer wall speed.
(maybe orca/bambu removed the settings for this.. minimum layer time is a standard setting in prusa/super slicer under filament tab)
This is a feature that exists in Bambu Studio that I was not aware of at the time of filming this video. I still like the simplicity of slowing down outer walls. I should make a follow-up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff do you know how to configure it in bambu studio?
forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742@@Longinus
Well this simple video and concise explanation definitely earned a subscription from me. Thank you. 🙏🙏 Time now to check out your other content and see what I can learn 👍👍😎👍👍
Awesome, thank you, welcome to the channel.
Does anyone know why the inside of my print foes this to the outside of the print ? If that makes sense
i got the p1s today and the benchy i printed had this isue... i printed from the sd card... i cant access the file from the studio program...
yeah that's just due to how they sliced it. They're aiming for speed so that's how it turns out.
The file on the sd card is already sliced so you won't be able to modify it. If you want to change the way it was sliced you'll have to download the STL for the benchy: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy and slice it yourself.
Looks mostly to be a temperature issue caused by changing flow/print speed. I'd prolly look at that if I wanted to maintain a low-as-possible print time.
Yeah, increase nozzle temp if you want to keep the speed (less reliable), or limit max flow rate to make sure the filamrnt has enough time to heat up and isn't pushed out too quickly
Even if you don't care about the looks, you should still make it uniform, as it affects layers adhesion; and so it affects strength of your part.
Thanks a lot for the info and thanks again for the straight to the point video
Even changing the speed isnt stopping weird lines showing up on my prints due to different flows
Fantastic informative straight forward no fluff video! ❤
I had this happen when I only had one item on the bed. It made rings around where it said bambu lab on the bin I made. Why would it be doing different speeds for different sections of the bin?
The upper part is printing slow because it reaches the lowest time limit between layers and slows down. The solution is to ”wait” if minimum layer time is reached instead of slowing it down to be within that limit
this is amazing. Did not even know this function existed!
This works for PETG to make it consistently shiny all over. I use 60-80mm for the outer wall
Didn't really mention the root cause of the issue though: 'Minimum Layer Time'. That's why it slows down.
And there's to ways to go about it really. Either slow the speed to match the minimum layer time on the quickest layer - OR - lower the minimum layer time to match the desired speed on the quickest layer.
Yeah at the time of filming I wasn’t even aware of minimum layer time. Coming from an ender 3 v2 that thing didn’t go fast enough for minimum layer times to even be a concern. Thinking of making a follow up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah that's fair, I experienced the same thing coming from Ender 5/6/C10. Used to set up prints by speed but now on the Bambus 'Max Flow Rate' and 'Minimum Layer Time' often become the limiting factors instead.
i found another way
go to click to edit preset ( button next to preset e.g Bambu PLA Basic)
go to cooling tab
find "minimum printing speed" default is 20mm/s
change it to match outer wall speed e.g 200 mm/s
200mm/s gives you a matte finish .
looking at that bambu studio has the min layer time to low so it slows down. i would guess each of those layers once its one part is less than 5 seconds if at 200mm/s
Yea, lowering the minimum layer time is also a solution to this issue. I just didn't know about minimum layer time when I was filming this video.
What's the line up the side of the cone shape? Showed as a white line in the slicer.
That's the z-seam, I have a video talking about it: ruclips.net/video/pS6kU-TXDbE/видео.html
This is too helpful!!! 🍻 thanks for sharing!😊
can you change the settings so I can add this to my playlist? I've been saving vids to 3D printer tips but this one wont let me D:
@ellieelias6336 Hey I don't think this is a toggleable setting... I just did some looking around in the settings and there is no option for "allow adding to playlists" or something similar.
I just made a new test playlist of my own and can't come across any videos that won't let me add them to the playlist. I did have an issue where the add blocker I'm using didn't display the "save" button so I had to disable add blocker.
Maybe try again and let me know if it's still an issue?
that's also a low infill print, so the bigger prints with a lot of infill it won't hurt you as much on time, because lower % of the print are walls. Another variable is that a high percentage of that 25 minutes is the bed leveling and all that stuff, doesn't that take like 8 minutes or something? So anyway my point is there are a lot of variables, but for the most part lowering the outer wall speed won't hurt the time much. Also not 100% sure but I think part of what decides the difference in speed / flow is overhangs, so you can play with those speeds, outer wall speeds, etc. and don't necessarily have to drop it by 50% might get away with less, maybe 150 instead of 100? idk just some random thoughts. Anyway thanks for posting this I was really getting annoyed by this problem, and didn't know about that speed/flow view thing.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing w us!
Thanks! Thanks for the comment.
Hello. I have the same problem here at Bambu Lab P1s. However, when checking the outer wall temperature, flow and speed, the object appears completely uniform in the preview. However, the layer time is what presents a huge variation in different parts of the object, causing each part of it to have a different finish between matte and glossy. And it's very clear. Is there any way to get around this problem? I tested it on 10 different brands of filaments, with the Benchy print, and the problem persists on all brands.
Very unsightly seam:
3:51
Is there any way to remove this?
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin.
You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
with the matt and glossy portions is that only when using Matt filament or also with the normal?
This was using normal PLA filament.
To me this seems to be minimum layer time causing this. After the first part is done, the printer has to do a lot less work per layer, so it slows down to still reach its minimum layer time. That's why the individual object is printed in the orange range completely, and not partially in the green range.
Is there any plausibility to evoid white line on slices (weld thing i suppose)?
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin.
You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
print temperature ( higher heat for faster printing ) at higher temp PLA can turn glossy.
You are hitting the minimum layer time when the first object finishes so the printer will slow down to respect that value.
That is definitely what is happening and I didn't even know that was happening in the background until this comment. Thanks for the observation.
I really don't think this is a good approach on the part of Bambu studio. Fill could be slowed, or the printer could pause between layers.
Perhaps this is the explanation of the infamous Benchy Hull Line? Layer time is lower when above the layer where there is infill?
Also, if you set the seam starting point to random it won't leave a joint where it starts and stops each layer...
*And I thought the CAD end of it was hard to learn??? Learning how to use the slicer is 65% of 3D printing!!!! Good info, thanks!*
very helpful, thank you!
How do you handle your chamber temp when printing PLA? when i print PLA with 55 degree bed temperature, my chamber hits 38°C easily, with door 5cm open and top lid rose with spacers (unable to take off, i have AMS).
Im thinking to put another fan in there to vent the hot air out, placed at the back, on the stand where the VOC Filter opening is, so that is blows in direction of the door.
I have the feeling that when the temp in the chamber gets too hot, my overhangs start to get worse.... because PLA likes it pretty cold haha
Still something that I'm dealing with myself. My printer is in a unheated garage so this past winter (-25°C) I had the opposite problem where I actually had to use a little space heater in a grow tent to bump the temperature up a bit to be above freezing.
Now that it's summer and we're seeing +25°C I print with the door wide open. A fan won't do much in my case cause you're still pulling hot air into the printer. I've still been pretty happy with the print quality so I don't feel the need to explore more options yet. Let me know if you land on a good solution.
Thanks for the informations !
No problem!
Differences in layer time also cause this, not just speed. Infact a sharp transition in layer time has a greater visual impact that than speed.
Layer time is really just adjusting speed/flow rate via a different setting. You're basically adjusting the same thing. Lowering the outer wall speed just makes sure you get a consistent look across your entire print.
Actually no thats not true. Test it. If you print a cube at a fast speed with a low layer time you'll get a shinyish finish.
If you print the same cube at the same speed on the outer wall but drastically slow down the infill such that the layer time in total is 25 secs or so you'll end up with a matte finish. This is because the layer below it has had time to cool down and doesnt get reheated by the layer above.
Ive done many tests on this and this is the cause of a lot of the banding people see on the X1C with PLA.
As I said above you can mitigate it by slowing everything else (other than the outer layer) down.
If you slow the outer layer below 100mm/s you seem to get print artefacts on the X1C.
@@3DPrintStuff
How do you get rid of the seam?
I'm havinge the same problem on a benchy and been looking for a solution all day long, it's party glossy, part matt. The only way I found to get it all glossy is to lower the max volumetric speed to 2.
Can that be right? I'm pretty new at this
Yeah that’s one way to do it. Basically the glossy portion is getting more heat than the matt portion.
By lowering the max volumetric flow rate you’ve slowed down the print, allowing for more heat to get into the plastic. This can also be achieved by lowering the speed of the outer walls or increasing the print temp. But increasing the print temp can come with some undesirable features on other parts of your print.
If you want to try and achieve matt everywhere you can go into the filament profile settings and reduce the minimum layer time to zero.
@@3DPrintStuff thx for the answer. Matt or glossy doesnt really matter at the moment. As long as it isnt a mix 😆. I will try to lower outer wall speed. Thx
Super good to know ! Thanks for the Video 😊
This problem appears to be "minimum layer time" setting. Reduce the time and it should fix it
I found a bug in bambu studio. Sometimes these artifacts show in splice but adjusting height of layer makes it equal all over. if you save it as 0.16 then open it it sometimes show artifact. if you then change to say 0.2mm it will make arrifacts dissappear. if you save then as 0.2 next time it has artifacts at 0.2....but if you rhen adjust back to 0.16 it no longer show artifacts.
bug is especially visible if you have ironing on printed models
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Have you emailed bamub lab to let them know about this bug?
@@3DPrintStuff i wanted to make a video...but the problem is not consistent every time.
My flower vase has that but I'm printing just the vase. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks
You can still use the same technique to make the appearance of a single part more uniform. My video just happens to be 2 parts on the build plate but I've seen this on single parts also.
You can also check the minimum layer time. I feel like they've made this value too high on most of their filament profiles.
@@3DPrintStuff Thanks for the quick response. I'll give it a try.
Haven’t come across this issue, but it’s good info to have when I do 👍🏻
Glad you found it useful 👍
Did you ever run into seam issues? If so How did you fix it? The seem gap is very noticeable on my prints
Yeah, seam issues are a common complaint on these printers. I'm working on a seam video. You can try setting the seam to "random" but I find that can look even worse with some filaments, especially silk pla.
@@3DPrintStuff Awesome! Good stuff. I'll stay tuned in.
Why does the slicer do that by default?
Outstanding info!
Thanks, glad it was helpful
thanks for sharing, this is very useful!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment
In fact, it is common in general for the color to change as the layer rises. I don't know why, in Bambu studio the printer speed slows down as the piece is nearing the end and this image appears. I haven't found a solution for this. Not only for binary parts but also for single parts, especially when printing complex and large parts, the printer speed slows down towards the last layers and this causes the color change. If anyone knows the solution, please write.
Have you played around with lowering "minimum layer times"? lots of models get smaller as they reach the top and bambu default settings are pretty generous with minimum layer times so the printer will slow down those layers with less surface area on them causing the color change. This forum post sounds similar to what you're describing forum.bambulab.com/t/print-slows-down-over-time/13498
@@3DPrintStuff Oh, yeah, finally. Thank you so much for your help.🖐👍👍