It isn't just how the part looks. This glossiness, in fact, tells you that the polymer crystallised more and has better mechanical properties. The matt surface finish means that the part didn't get enough energy and is weaker in almost every aspect (tensile strength, temperature resistance, etc).
Yeah this is a good point. Visual indicator that the plastic isn’t getting enough heat. You’d probably be able to bump up the nozzle temp and not have to slow down the outer wall speeds at all.
One additional consideration, given the notion of adjusting the 'minimum layer time': as a way to solve this harsh transition, is that: Your solution would work more effectively if you have a short (5mm) part that takes up half the build volume and a tall (150mm) part that takes up the other half. If you constrain the overall 'minimum layer time' to match the layer time that occurs when both parts are being printed (the first 5mm worth of layers), that would force all of the other 145mms: of the tall part, to print at the same slow pace. But, certainly, Matte finish vs glossy is an indication of extrusion temperature... which does impact the strength/adhesion of a part; whether it's to a significant degree of detriment is dependent on the use-case. @@3DPrintStuff
Sequence printing Print-by-object - Also, an interesting option which may avoid slowing print time is to use sequence printing, called Print-by-object within Bambu Studio! Hope this helps!
That's a great solution but the same issue can occur on a single part too. Had this multiple times and couldn't figure out a way to fix it besides turning down speed so far.
@@wtfpercussion yes it can, just enable the feature print by object, and then select "auto arange" on the top , it will space out the parts maybe a bit too generously, but i use it all the time, in case 1 print fails. i dont have to start over the other ones too. so far , never had a problem.
This tip/tag saved my sanity, my love for this hobby, and my wallet. If more people had tutorials like this as a primer 3d printing wouldn't be so difficult of a sell but let me tell you, its a blast when you're invested and fed the right information to produce great prints.
You may also want to pay attention to the cooling of the filament, i.e. the layer time, which also affects the print speed. If the time to be used for the first matte part of the lay
Yeah I didn't even know that was a setting that was having an effect in the background. Makes total sense that the minimum layer time would make the top half move slower which puts more heat in the filament and gives it the shinier look.
Good tip! This is probably related with the "minimum layer time" filament configuration, which is preventing the top of that object to print slower, and since the bottom has that other object, it makes the layer time to be higher, so higher speeds can be reached. If you changed only the bigger part outer wall speed to 100ms it would also probably work, and yeah decreasing the minimum layer time would also improve it and make the print even faster - in this case it could lead to cooling issues, but its worth it trying, I've noticed that for some parts it can be decreased a little bit without any issues.
Awesome tutorial thanks so mcuh for sharing :). One thing you can do to slow the print speed down is adjust the flow rate in the printer for your material. By default, bambu PLA basic materials print at 21 mm/s. I've found that dropping the flow rate down to 10mm/s keeps everything nice and glossy, the printer will automatically show the print speeds down to match the new flow rate max.
I came here to say this but 10mm^3/s is REALLY overkill. When I first got mine i tested stepping down in increments of 1 and stopped at 17. Works great for me.
Thanks so much for doing this video! I was having a similar issue that'd been driving me nuts on my X1C and P1P with one specific model that was a sphere. For me specifically though, the banding always seemed to line up with where supports were and not a seemingly random height. In the end, the instructions in this video didn't fix my issue BUT the video did point me in the right direction and give me info I needed. Ultimately for me it was a matter of disabling "Slow down for overhangs" when supports are enabled that fixed my issue but I give you full credit for getting me there. Thanks so much!
Hey that's awesome to hear. I'm glad this video was able to steer you in the right direction. I'll keep that "Slow down for overhangs" setting in my back pocket.
For PETG Temp and Speed plays a huge role, anyway struggling trying to get a glossy look to your prints, you might have to slow down or increase temps or both.
This is wild! For years, 3d printers would try to get the matte look rather than the glossy PLA look, now that speed makes it matte people want it glossy! Crazy! 😂😂😂
The speed is limited by max volumetric speed in filament settings. When printing on high speeds you reach the limit of max volumetric speed, so slicer changes other speeds accordingly. To keep stable speed on all model parts you need to print lover than max volumetric speed.
I've found that printing PLA at 250 degrees, everything gets glossy and the print still comes out fine without needing to drop speeds. 250 seems crazy but the PLA itself probably doesn't get that hot, it's just necessary to heat it up fully. Try a temp tower up to 270 or so and check how it prints!
That's a good tip, I'll give it a try. Coming from an ender 3 V2 250deg does seem crazy for PLA. But you're probably right, at the higher speeds the PLA probably isn't reaching that temp.
@@3DPrintStuff I did notice maybe more shrinking when printing at 250, so maybe not ideal if you need high accuracy, but I'm still trying to get it dialed in. It's worth a shot anyway!
I recommend not only looking at Speed differences in the preview, but also at cooling differences. You want these two being as uniform as possible for your parts. I would also not recommend compensating these effects by generally slowing down. This simply turns a very fast printer into a very slow one... I would rather keep the higher speeds, increase my part cooling and change my layer time settings to avoid auto slow down. Bambu-Studio also has dedicated speed settings for overhangs. In case of printing parts with overhangs, that might also need adjustement.
An easier option would be to check the flow rate of the glossy section and set the maximum flow rate of the filament to match. No need to adjust speeds for every print that way, it will be automatically speed limited.
That's another option although not easier. You just need to set print by object and space the objects far enough from each other. For surface quality it's better to print one object at a time if you do not need to print too many or too tall parts so it causes interference. Also you should reduce the flow rate anyway unless you need to print really fast as faster speed produces weaker parts.
@@woopssergwhy do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying. So much nonsense on the Internet of people saying stuff when they don't understand. Stop! Think before you comment. Reducing the maximum flow so all flow is equivalent will eliminate these problems. Some of this is often caused by minimum layer time on small parts. So when you print two objects the speed can increase and when the other object is finished minimum layer time comes into play and slows the speed down causing this visible change in the surface quality.
@@trafton00 "why do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying." "Stop! Think before you comment." That's exactly about you. Printing dissimilar objects sequentially and not at once would avoid rapid change in printing speed to stay within minimum layer time when above certain layer it suddenly needs to print only one object instead of two. Also you can dial down outer wall printing speed instead of maximum flow rate as shown in the video which will give more predictable result. There are different ways to achieve the same result but apparently it's beyond your comprehension. All I said you could just print objects in sequence ("Print sequence: by object" setting) instead of guesstimating maximum flow rate that would be right in filament settings. And FYI I do own X1CC.
@@woopsserg You still don't get it. The issue lies in the interaction between layer time and flow rate. On layers with longer travel lengths, the printer reaches a higher flow rate as it has more time to accelerate, adhering to the minimum layer time. On shorter layers, the printer fails to attain the maximum flow rate, causing a noticeable shift in layer quality. You suggested that printing objects one by one solves this, but it does NOT in all cases. This method falls short as it doesn't address the core problem: the variation in flow rate due to differing layer travel lengths. By setting a controlled, consistent flow rate, the printer can maintain a uniform layer quality regardless of the layer's travel length.
Yes, it's good that this is being addressed, although the behavior is, of course, logically explainable. The filament needs the opportunity to cool down a bit. When you have many parts or large, extensive parts, the filament cools down, and if the number of parts decreases, leaving only this super thin ring, the speed drops significantly to give the filament the chance to cool down; otherwise, the print would fail completely.
@@3DPrintStuff the flow test is only available in orca. To adjust flow rate limit in bambu studio select edit icon next to your selected filament. Last setting on the first page is max volumetric speed. When set to 8 pla is mostly glossy, but you can reduce it even further.
Increasing the nozzle temp is definitely another way to try and correct this change in appearance on the parts. Have you already tried this? How did it turn out?
Most probably is has to do with min layer time. Could try so reduce that parameter, and keep speed as it was. Should get everything printed faster, and same speed through entire print.
Yeah, nice. The other thing that may achieve the same end, but might be more risky to a suscessful print is, in the Filament Cooling tab, to uncheck 'Slow printing down for better layer cooling'
I believe it is better to change "Max volumetric speed" in filament settings. Which do basically the same, top speed is limited to the (volumetric) speed which still works for this filament.
I'll have to check this out. Sounds like that is a global change that will effect every print going forward with the filament that has this setting changed. I like the control of changing the outer wall speed on a print by print basis. But that's just personal preference. Your suggestion would be set and forget, wouldn't have to think about it again.
@@3DPrintStuff it is personal preference. I started with various print settings, probably as you, but finaly end with basically one print settings (defines what is printer capable of + nozzle diameter, layer height, acceleration of each wall, surface, infill and so) and settings for each filament which also limits max volumetric speed which can be used regardles of e.g. nozzle size. With this, I can easily use the same print profile for print e.g. ABS as well as TPU without any further modifications of profile (well, few exceptions as support, wall count, infill type and density are stil object per object).
you could also just changed the minimum layer time to prevent slowdown, if bambu allows that lol, but in my experience, after this is tuned you might want to raise temps unless it's "mat filament". Glossy means better layer adhesion most of the time. printing at those speeds, you need to ignore recommended temps
Yeah minimum layer time would have probably been the more rock solid way to solve this. I think outer wall speed is just a super simple concept to understand and adjust.
This phenomenon can also be caused by the minimal time for a layer, which is set in the cooling-options of the material. If the layer takes less than the specified minimal time (in my case 8s), the print will get slowed down. I'm not sure if it is a good idea to set this too low or even deactivate this mechanism, because it is meant to give the layer enough time to cool down, but I think, this is also a cause for the different speeds. Sadly, there is no option like "keep the same print-speed, but wait outside of the part for the remaining time". I don't know if that would cause other problems, but it might be worth a try...
Thank you for this video. The information was very helpful and your explanation was easy to understand. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information.
Dude this is awesome, I was wondering what the hell was happening before with some parts where you see these defects when you have writing or other elements on the outer wall
Didn't really mention the root cause of the issue though: 'Minimum Layer Time'. That's why it slows down. And there's to ways to go about it really. Either slow the speed to match the minimum layer time on the quickest layer - OR - lower the minimum layer time to match the desired speed on the quickest layer.
Yeah at the time of filming I wasn’t even aware of minimum layer time. Coming from an ender 3 v2 that thing didn’t go fast enough for minimum layer times to even be a concern. Thinking of making a follow up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah that's fair, I experienced the same thing coming from Ender 5/6/C10. Used to set up prints by speed but now on the Bambus 'Max Flow Rate' and 'Minimum Layer Time' often become the limiting factors instead.
This parameter seems like the best option, then regardless of other settings a maximum calculation will limit the printer to a speed that will let the filament get to temp
@@Gw2Zoke I basically only change max flow, min layer time, acceleration, and strength/layer height now. With modern slicers and a calibrated printer, speed is addressed by these parameters and doesn't need to be manually changed. Keep it at 500 and let the printer purr. I guess the one speed setting that should be manually adjusted is overhang speed.
Pretty sure you can also use a cube modifier and put it over that top half and force the speed to stay higher and keep the speed and matte finish rather than slowing the entire print down to be gloss instead. I'll be making a video and experiment with this too.
That's a good idea. Mine is just the lazy way. I've also seen models where the banding happens in multiple different locations and that would be a pain to paint. Let me know when you release your video, I'm curious to see the results.
I printed the benchy on its own with no other models on the plate. I used Bambu PLA Basic filament, using the default Bambu PLA Basic profile/settings in Bambu Studio, I did this on the A1 Mini and the X1C, in both cases the benchy turned out shiny/matt like this. I have never experienced this before on my Ender printers. It seems to be a pretty bad issue with the Bambu's PLA Basic. TBH, left me underwhelmed with Bambu printers that are supposed to just produce great prints out of the box with very little setup or tweaking.
Well this simple video and concise explanation definitely earned a subscription from me. Thank you. 🙏🙏 Time now to check out your other content and see what I can learn 👍👍😎👍👍
I assume the reason it's slowing down once it's printing only the one part is probably the minimum layer time. You could try and decrease that value, but you gotta make sure that cooling is still sufficient then. This should not be a problem on bigger prints though.
@@MichaelPetito it's definetely the wrong way to handle this by the slicer, it should check for cross-section width and fan speeds and adjust min resting time depending on that
1. On final prints simply keep a low temp to avoid the shine effect. 1. Another way is to use a high temp filament, for those barely exhibit the shine effect across temperature/speed swings. 3. Print one object or multiples of the same object. 4. Use temperature profile hack that only exist in proprietary software of which you don't own equipment. To this day, users STILL have to baby sit the printed part by adjusting speed and temp at certain layers. So where is the so called A.I. these print companies boast about? 3D printing is till in its zygote stage of life.
i found another way go to click to edit preset ( button next to preset e.g Bambu PLA Basic) go to cooling tab find "minimum printing speed" default is 20mm/s change it to match outer wall speed e.g 200 mm/s 200mm/s gives you a matte finish .
Looks mostly to be a temperature issue caused by changing flow/print speed. I'd prolly look at that if I wanted to maintain a low-as-possible print time.
Yeah, increase nozzle temp if you want to keep the speed (less reliable), or limit max flow rate to make sure the filamrnt has enough time to heat up and isn't pushed out too quickly
yeah that's just due to how they sliced it. They're aiming for speed so that's how it turns out. The file on the sd card is already sliced so you won't be able to modify it. If you want to change the way it was sliced you'll have to download the STL for the benchy: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy and slice it yourself.
To me this seems to be minimum layer time causing this. After the first part is done, the printer has to do a lot less work per layer, so it slows down to still reach its minimum layer time. That's why the individual object is printed in the orange range completely, and not partially in the green range.
This is very helpful. Thank you! Have you encountered any issues with wall bulge at the wall transition (from base floor to wall)? I've been trying to find ways to remove it but still can't figure how. If you know how to solve that, please share.
The problem is minimum layer time. The layer takes longer when there are two parts. Meaning the printer is able to move faster and still hit the minimum layer time. The faster speed means there is a higher flow rate, causing that matte look. Increasing the minimum layer time would slow the printer down, giving you the glossy look. Decreasing the minimum layer time would speed the printer up, giving you the matte look. Printing at higher speeds does affect part strength too. PLA that is melted properly should always have the glossy finish unless it is a special kind of PLA like PolyTerra Matte PLA.
looking at that bambu studio has the min layer time to low so it slows down. i would guess each of those layers once its one part is less than 5 seconds if at 200mm/s
that's also a low infill print, so the bigger prints with a lot of infill it won't hurt you as much on time, because lower % of the print are walls. Another variable is that a high percentage of that 25 minutes is the bed leveling and all that stuff, doesn't that take like 8 minutes or something? So anyway my point is there are a lot of variables, but for the most part lowering the outer wall speed won't hurt the time much. Also not 100% sure but I think part of what decides the difference in speed / flow is overhangs, so you can play with those speeds, outer wall speeds, etc. and don't necessarily have to drop it by 50% might get away with less, maybe 150 instead of 100? idk just some random thoughts. Anyway thanks for posting this I was really getting annoyed by this problem, and didn't know about that speed/flow view thing.
the color difference comes from "minimum layer time" it just prints the upper part slower then the ones below. if you have enough cooling you can reduce the minimum layer time or dont let it slow down. you did the other way where speed reduction equals your outer wall speed. (maybe orca/bambu removed the settings for this.. minimum layer time is a standard setting in prusa/super slicer under filament tab)
This is a feature that exists in Bambu Studio that I was not aware of at the time of filming this video. I still like the simplicity of slowing down outer walls. I should make a follow-up video about minimum layer time.
Layer time is really just adjusting speed/flow rate via a different setting. You're basically adjusting the same thing. Lowering the outer wall speed just makes sure you get a consistent look across your entire print.
Actually no thats not true. Test it. If you print a cube at a fast speed with a low layer time you'll get a shinyish finish. If you print the same cube at the same speed on the outer wall but drastically slow down the infill such that the layer time in total is 25 secs or so you'll end up with a matte finish. This is because the layer below it has had time to cool down and doesnt get reheated by the layer above. Ive done many tests on this and this is the cause of a lot of the banding people see on the X1C with PLA. As I said above you can mitigate it by slowing everything else (other than the outer layer) down. If you slow the outer layer below 100mm/s you seem to get print artefacts on the X1C. @@3DPrintStuff
I have been trying out a small increment of fuzzy skin to make better looking outer layers and have had some very good success in hiding the layers and seams, I have also been making some decorative ribs to hide seams, I also use Matte PLA and CF PLA to hide the layer lines. Is the Bambu Basic PLA meant to be matt or glossy?
I'm having some problems with marks on the pieces, similar to your piece on the left at the beginning of the video. It's happening just on the right side of the table. It's as if the layers have space between them. Very common in conventional printers. Do you have a video that teaches you how to fix this? Or could you tell me what the name of the problem would be so that I can search for a solution. Mine is the A1 mini
Make sure the nozzle temp is on the high end fans are going full blast when you lower that minimum layer time. Otherwise you might clog the nozzle or extrude warped lines. Tis a careful balance. I think slowing down the overall print speed was the better option haha.
Appreciate the input. I also feel that lowering the outer wall print speed is the better option even though I didn't know about minimum layer time while making this video. I think I'll make a follow up video exploring minimum layer times and comparing the print time and quality.
you may want to consider redesigning your holes not to have support. You really shouldn't need supports for those types of holes. If you want them to look nicer you can turn the hole into more a teardrop shape at the top so the printer is printing a more gradual overhang instead of a sharper one with a circle. even with a circle though it will print fine with no supports. it will just be a little messier at the top.
In fact, it is common in general for the color to change as the layer rises. I don't know why, in Bambu studio the printer speed slows down as the piece is nearing the end and this image appears. I haven't found a solution for this. Not only for binary parts but also for single parts, especially when printing complex and large parts, the printer speed slows down towards the last layers and this causes the color change. If anyone knows the solution, please write.
Have you played around with lowering "minimum layer times"? lots of models get smaller as they reach the top and bambu default settings are pretty generous with minimum layer times so the printer will slow down those layers with less surface area on them causing the color change. This forum post sounds similar to what you're describing forum.bambulab.com/t/print-slows-down-over-time/13498
The PETcarbon fiber always comes out perfectly uniform and matt. It's just theregular PET that does that. Is it possible to print everything matt and still get good strength? Thank you so much for the tip.
You'd have to test and find out. On this print there wasn't any obvious difference in strength between the matte and glossy portions. But I didn't put it under load. So there weren't any issues with layer adhesion but they could show up if the part was put under load.
Saw this video last week didn’t watch it, printed the preloaded benchy from my new x1c and got this result…said to myself shit where did that video go 😂😂😂
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin. You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
Huh, interesting, saved this for later. Thank you, I did not know this could be an issue or what to even look for when something like this happens. I have had it only once on one of my prints using Cura.
@@RoseKindred as far as I understand it's basically a temperature issue, so if you were printing with a pretty low nozzle temperature you could also experience this. Fast printers have it more because they push so much filament through that it doesn't quite have time to heat up fully
Probably still worth it. I wouldn't want to rely solely on settings to produce the matte effect. You'd have to always be printing fast for matte which doesn't give you any room to troubleshoot other quality issues if you need to slow down at all.
It isn't just how the part looks. This glossiness, in fact, tells you that the polymer crystallised more and has better mechanical properties. The matt surface finish means that the part didn't get enough energy and is weaker in almost every aspect (tensile strength, temperature resistance, etc).
Yeah this is a good point. Visual indicator that the plastic isn’t getting enough heat. You’d probably be able to bump up the nozzle temp and not have to slow down the outer wall speeds at all.
People are wicked smart in this 3d printing world.
@@burrbentine No, just knowledge that comes with time (a few years) using a 3D printer.
One additional consideration, given the notion of adjusting the 'minimum layer time': as a way to solve this harsh transition, is that: Your solution would work more effectively if you have a short (5mm) part that takes up half the build volume and a tall (150mm) part that takes up the other half. If you constrain the overall 'minimum layer time' to match the layer time that occurs when both parts are being printed (the first 5mm worth of layers), that would force all of the other 145mms: of the tall part, to print at the same slow pace.
But, certainly, Matte finish vs glossy is an indication of extrusion temperature... which does impact the strength/adhesion of a part; whether it's to a significant degree of detriment is dependent on the use-case. @@3DPrintStuff
OK sure but u can still make the highest quality filament look just as bad as cheap filament with the wrong print settings
Sequence printing Print-by-object - Also, an interesting option which may avoid slowing print time is to use sequence printing, called Print-by-object within Bambu Studio! Hope this helps!
This is a good suggestion. I haven't really played around with Print-By-Object out of fear of causing unnecessary collisions.
@@3DPrintStuffimpossible to collide as slicer makes sure there enough space between
That's a great solution but the same issue can occur on a single part too. Had this multiple times and couldn't figure out a way to fix it besides turning down speed so far.
@@nickjeffrey8050Oh wow! That’s a great feature! Can it position the objects automatically to make it work as well?
@@wtfpercussion yes it can, just enable the feature print by object, and then select "auto arange" on the top , it will space out the parts maybe a bit too generously, but i use it all the time, in case 1 print fails. i dont have to start over the other ones too. so far , never had a problem.
This tip/tag saved my sanity, my love for this hobby, and my wallet. If more people had tutorials like this as a primer 3d printing wouldn't be so difficult of a sell but let me tell you, its a blast when you're invested and fed the right information to produce great prints.
Glad it helped. It can be a bit of a money pit but it's worth it when prints turn out the way you want them to.
Not enough people are talking about this. This helped me a lot.
Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the sub.
This is the type of thing they should put on TV, on the news.
You may also want to pay attention to the cooling of the filament, i.e. the layer time, which also affects the print speed. If the time to be used for the first matte part of the lay
Yeah I didn't even know that was a setting that was having an effect in the background. Makes total sense that the minimum layer time would make the top half move slower which puts more heat in the filament and gives it the shinier look.
@@3DPrintStuffAnyone found out how to change layer time? ( I know the setting from Cura) but can't find anything similar in Bambu Studio...
@@autofctrlYes, filament settings. Then cooling
@@3DPrintStuffThat was exactly the problem with your pieces.
@@kilevine2359Thx a lot :)
Good tip! This is probably related with the "minimum layer time" filament configuration, which is preventing the top of that object to print slower, and since the bottom has that other object, it makes the layer time to be higher, so higher speeds can be reached. If you changed only the bigger part outer wall speed to 100ms it would also probably work, and yeah decreasing the minimum layer time would also improve it and make the print even faster - in this case it could lead to cooling issues, but its worth it trying, I've noticed that for some parts it can be decreased a little bit without any issues.
This explains it! I was so confused why this would happen.
This topic is very underrated why aren't people talking about this
Awesome tutorial thanks so mcuh for sharing :).
One thing you can do to slow the print speed down is adjust the flow rate in the printer for your material. By default, bambu PLA basic materials print at 21 mm/s. I've found that dropping the flow rate down to 10mm/s keeps everything nice and glossy, the printer will automatically show the print speeds down to match the new flow rate max.
That's a great tip to set and forget. Don't have to adjust settings on a per print basis.
I came here to say this but 10mm^3/s is REALLY overkill. When I first got mine i tested stepping down in increments of 1 and stopped at 17. Works great for me.
Great video! Straight to the point. Rare these days on youtube.
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
This is the reason i just subscribed.
Got me to subscribe.
Thanks so much for doing this video! I was having a similar issue that'd been driving me nuts on my X1C and P1P with one specific model that was a sphere. For me specifically though, the banding always seemed to line up with where supports were and not a seemingly random height. In the end, the instructions in this video didn't fix my issue BUT the video did point me in the right direction and give me info I needed. Ultimately for me it was a matter of disabling "Slow down for overhangs" when supports are enabled that fixed my issue but I give you full credit for getting me there. Thanks so much!
Hey that's awesome to hear. I'm glad this video was able to steer you in the right direction. I'll keep that "Slow down for overhangs" setting in my back pocket.
Awesome video. Straight to the piint, no stupid intros or talking for 20 minutes. Good job. Thank you!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment
Straight to the point and easy to understand, thank you 🙏🏼
You're welcome, Thanks for the comment.
For PETG Temp and Speed plays a huge role, anyway struggling trying to get a glossy look to your prints, you might have to slow down or increase temps or both.
This is wild! For years, 3d printers would try to get the matte look rather than the glossy PLA look, now that speed makes it matte people want it glossy! Crazy! 😂😂😂
The speed is limited by max volumetric speed in filament settings. When printing on high speeds you reach the limit of max volumetric speed, so slicer changes other speeds accordingly.
To keep stable speed on all model parts you need to print lover than max volumetric speed.
I've found that printing PLA at 250 degrees, everything gets glossy and the print still comes out fine without needing to drop speeds. 250 seems crazy but the PLA itself probably doesn't get that hot, it's just necessary to heat it up fully. Try a temp tower up to 270 or so and check how it prints!
That's a good tip, I'll give it a try. Coming from an ender 3 V2 250deg does seem crazy for PLA. But you're probably right, at the higher speeds the PLA probably isn't reaching that temp.
@@3DPrintStuff I did notice maybe more shrinking when printing at 250, so maybe not ideal if you need high accuracy, but I'm still trying to get it dialed in. It's worth a shot anyway!
I recommend not only looking at Speed differences in the preview, but also at cooling differences. You want these two being as uniform as possible for your parts.
I would also not recommend compensating these effects by generally slowing down.
This simply turns a very fast printer into a very slow one...
I would rather keep the higher speeds, increase my part cooling and change my layer time settings to avoid auto slow down.
Bambu-Studio also has dedicated speed settings for overhangs.
In case of printing parts with overhangs, that might also need adjustement.
whats a good min fan layer time? and max fan layer time ? i can't seem to understando how that works
I solved it thanks to you! Thank you very much!
This helped with an entirely unrelated issue I'm having within a completely different slicer... thank you! 😂
Glad I could help! Most FDM printing issues are transferable from one slicer/printer to the next. What slicer/printer are you using?
An easier option would be to check the flow rate of the glossy section and set the maximum flow rate of the filament to match. No need to adjust speeds for every print that way, it will be automatically speed limited.
That's another option although not easier. You just need to set print by object and space the objects far enough from each other. For surface quality it's better to print one object at a time if you do not need to print too many or too tall parts so it causes interference. Also you should reduce the flow rate anyway unless you need to print really fast as faster speed produces weaker parts.
@@woopssergwhy do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying. So much nonsense on the Internet of people saying stuff when they don't understand. Stop! Think before you comment. Reducing the maximum flow so all flow is equivalent will eliminate these problems. Some of this is often caused by minimum layer time on small parts. So when you print two objects the speed can increase and when the other object is finished minimum layer time comes into play and slows the speed down causing this visible change in the surface quality.
@@trafton00 "why do you speak when you don't understand what he's saying." "Stop! Think before you comment." That's exactly about you. Printing dissimilar objects sequentially and not at once would avoid rapid change in printing speed to stay within minimum layer time when above certain layer it suddenly needs to print only one object instead of two. Also you can dial down outer wall printing speed instead of maximum flow rate as shown in the video which will give more predictable result. There are different ways to achieve the same result but apparently it's beyond your comprehension. All I said you could just print objects in sequence ("Print sequence: by object" setting) instead of guesstimating maximum flow rate that would be right in filament settings. And FYI I do own X1CC.
@@woopsserg You still don't get it. The issue lies in the interaction between layer time and flow rate. On layers with longer travel lengths, the printer reaches a higher flow rate as it has more time to accelerate, adhering to the minimum layer time. On shorter layers, the printer fails to attain the maximum flow rate, causing a noticeable shift in layer quality.
You suggested that printing objects one by one solves this, but it does NOT in all cases. This method falls short as it doesn't address the core problem: the variation in flow rate due to differing layer travel lengths. By setting a controlled, consistent flow rate, the printer can maintain a uniform layer quality regardless of the layer's travel length.
@@trafton00 You don't get that I completely get it. Now re-read what I wrote.
Changing the minimum layer time settings are another possible fix, if they are overly restrictive, but I'm a cura user.
Yes, it's good that this is being addressed, although the behavior is, of course, logically explainable. The filament needs the opportunity to cool down a bit. When you have many parts or large, extensive parts, the filament cools down, and if the number of parts decreases, leaving only this super thin ring, the speed drops significantly to give the filament the chance to cool down; otherwise, the print would fail completely.
Thanks for this - this was my exact problem and I got as far as the speed view in Preview - I’ll try changing the speed on the outer wall.
This was excellent, informative and to the point. Thanks for showing me this about my new printer.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
You can print the flow test in orca slicer and pick a flow rate limit in the material properties. Bambu PLA stays glossy to about 8mm3/s @220C.
This is good to know. I haven't used orca slicer at all yet. Any other features you use that are exclusively on orca slicer?
@@3DPrintStuff the flow test is only available in orca. To adjust flow rate limit in bambu studio select edit icon next to your selected filament. Last setting on the first page is max volumetric speed. When set to 8 pla is mostly glossy, but you can reduce it even further.
@@3DPrintStuff i just use orca for the calibration tools and bambu studio for the rest
Very helpful. Thank you. I may try increasing nozzle temperature to see if that also might correct consistency and remove that transition in the print
Increasing the nozzle temp is definitely another way to try and correct this change in appearance on the parts.
Have you already tried this? How did it turn out?
But why is it printing outer wall at different speeds within that object? Does it have to do with the min layer time?
Most probably is has to do with min layer time. Could try so reduce that parameter, and keep speed as it was. Should get everything printed faster, and same speed through entire print.
Great video - short on the point. Again learned something. Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
and no annoying music either, well produced. thanks.
Yeah, nice. The other thing that may achieve the same end, but might be more risky to a suscessful print is, in the Filament Cooling tab, to uncheck 'Slow printing down for better layer cooling'
I'll have to look into this.
Does anyone know why the inside of my print foes this to the outside of the print ? If that makes sense
I believe it is better to change "Max volumetric speed" in filament settings. Which do basically the same, top speed is limited to the (volumetric) speed which still works for this filament.
I'll have to check this out. Sounds like that is a global change that will effect every print going forward with the filament that has this setting changed. I like the control of changing the outer wall speed on a print by print basis. But that's just personal preference. Your suggestion would be set and forget, wouldn't have to think about it again.
@@3DPrintStuff it is personal preference.
I started with various print settings, probably as you, but finaly end with basically one print settings (defines what is printer capable of + nozzle diameter, layer height, acceleration of each wall, surface, infill and so) and settings for each filament which also limits max volumetric speed which can be used regardles of e.g. nozzle size.
With this, I can easily use the same print profile for print e.g. ABS as well as TPU without any further modifications of profile (well, few exceptions as support, wall count, infill type and density are stil object per object).
you could also just changed the minimum layer time to prevent slowdown, if bambu allows that lol, but in my experience, after this is tuned you might want to raise temps unless it's "mat filament". Glossy means better layer adhesion most of the time. printing at those speeds, you need to ignore recommended temps
Yeah minimum layer time would have probably been the more rock solid way to solve this. I think outer wall speed is just a super simple concept to understand and adjust.
Great video! I had the same exact thing happening and didn't even know how to phrase the question. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
This phenomenon can also be caused by the minimal time for a layer, which is set in the cooling-options of the material. If the layer takes less than the specified minimal time (in my case 8s), the print will get slowed down.
I'm not sure if it is a good idea to set this too low or even deactivate this mechanism, because it is meant to give the layer enough time to cool down, but I think, this is also a cause for the different speeds.
Sadly, there is no option like "keep the same print-speed, but wait outside of the part for the remaining time". I don't know if that would cause other problems, but it might be worth a try...
Thank you for this video. The information was very helpful and your explanation was easy to understand. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
I appreciate this video being to the point. I learned something too. Thank you.
You're welcome, glad you found it useful.
Dude this is awesome, I was wondering what the hell was happening before with some parts where you see these defects when you have writing or other elements on the outer wall
Glad you found I useful. Yeah there’s a bunch of situations where this shows up, I should make a video trying to outline all of them.
I've noticed when a print is done with another thing it tends to be less perfect, and changing speed also changes gloss
Didn't really mention the root cause of the issue though: 'Minimum Layer Time'. That's why it slows down.
And there's to ways to go about it really. Either slow the speed to match the minimum layer time on the quickest layer - OR - lower the minimum layer time to match the desired speed on the quickest layer.
Yeah at the time of filming I wasn’t even aware of minimum layer time. Coming from an ender 3 v2 that thing didn’t go fast enough for minimum layer times to even be a concern. Thinking of making a follow up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah that's fair, I experienced the same thing coming from Ender 5/6/C10. Used to set up prints by speed but now on the Bambus 'Max Flow Rate' and 'Minimum Layer Time' often become the limiting factors instead.
Thanks a lot for the info and thanks again for the straight to the point video
Super good to know ! Thanks for the Video 😊
this is amazing. Did not even know this function existed!
Fantastic informative straight forward no fluff video! ❤
This is a result of maximum flow settings. Decrease your maximum flow to one that comes out nice and the slicer will adjust.
This parameter seems like the best option, then regardless of other settings a maximum calculation will limit the printer to a speed that will let the filament get to temp
@@Gw2Zoke I basically only change max flow, min layer time, acceleration, and strength/layer height now. With modern slicers and a calibrated printer, speed is addressed by these parameters and doesn't need to be manually changed. Keep it at 500 and let the printer purr.
I guess the one speed setting that should be manually adjusted is overhang speed.
This is very useful! thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Pretty sure you can also use a cube modifier and put it over that top half and force the speed to stay higher and keep the speed and matte finish rather than slowing the entire print down to be gloss instead. I'll be making a video and experiment with this too.
That's a good idea. Mine is just the lazy way. I've also seen models where the banding happens in multiple different locations and that would be a pain to paint. Let me know when you release your video, I'm curious to see the results.
I been having this issue so I'm going to try this tonight, thank you sir
Let me know how it goes.
Cheers mate! Actual 10/10 video.
Thanks! Love to hear that.
I printed the benchy on its own with no other models on the plate. I used Bambu PLA Basic filament, using the default Bambu PLA Basic profile/settings in Bambu Studio, I did this on the A1 Mini and the X1C, in both cases the benchy turned out shiny/matt like this. I have never experienced this before on my Ender printers. It seems to be a pretty bad issue with the Bambu's PLA Basic. TBH, left me underwhelmed with Bambu printers that are supposed to just produce great prints out of the box with very little setup or tweaking.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing w us!
Thanks! Thanks for the comment.
This works for PETG to make it consistently shiny all over. I use 60-80mm for the outer wall
Even changing the speed isnt stopping weird lines showing up on my prints due to different flows
Well this simple video and concise explanation definitely earned a subscription from me. Thank you. 🙏🙏 Time now to check out your other content and see what I can learn 👍👍😎👍👍
Awesome, thank you, welcome to the channel.
Haven’t come across this issue, but it’s good info to have when I do 👍🏻
Glad you found it useful 👍
What an amazing tip! Thank you so much.
Good practice:
if there are more than 1 object on plate - go to OTHERS -> Special mode -> Print sequence -> and select By OBJECT.
I assume the reason it's slowing down once it's printing only the one part is probably the minimum layer time. You could try and decrease that value, but you gotta make sure that cooling is still sufficient then. This should not be a problem on bigger prints though.
I'll have to look into this.
This is absolutely due to minimum layer time which is why the slower print speed doesn't change the overall print time much.
@@MichaelPetito it's definetely the wrong way to handle this by the slicer, it should check for cross-section width and fan speeds and adjust min resting time depending on that
1. On final prints simply keep a low temp to avoid the shine effect.
1. Another way is to use a high temp filament, for those barely exhibit the shine effect across temperature/speed swings.
3. Print one object or multiples of the same object.
4. Use temperature profile hack that only exist in proprietary software of which you don't own equipment.
To this day, users STILL have to baby sit the printed part by adjusting speed and temp at certain layers. So where is the so called A.I. these print companies boast about?
3D printing is till in its zygote stage of life.
i found another way
go to click to edit preset ( button next to preset e.g Bambu PLA Basic)
go to cooling tab
find "minimum printing speed" default is 20mm/s
change it to match outer wall speed e.g 200 mm/s
200mm/s gives you a matte finish .
Looks mostly to be a temperature issue caused by changing flow/print speed. I'd prolly look at that if I wanted to maintain a low-as-possible print time.
Yeah, increase nozzle temp if you want to keep the speed (less reliable), or limit max flow rate to make sure the filamrnt has enough time to heat up and isn't pushed out too quickly
This problem appears to be "minimum layer time" setting. Reduce the time and it should fix it
i got the p1s today and the benchy i printed had this isue... i printed from the sd card... i cant access the file from the studio program...
yeah that's just due to how they sliced it. They're aiming for speed so that's how it turns out.
The file on the sd card is already sliced so you won't be able to modify it. If you want to change the way it was sliced you'll have to download the STL for the benchy: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy and slice it yourself.
print temperature ( higher heat for faster printing ) at higher temp PLA can turn glossy.
Thanks for the informations !
No problem!
Thank you for making this video !
My pleasure! Glad you liked it.
Thank you for this great tip.
You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful.
You are hitting the minimum layer time when the first object finishes so the printer will slow down to respect that value.
That is definitely what is happening and I didn't even know that was happening in the background until this comment. Thanks for the observation.
I really don't think this is a good approach on the part of Bambu studio. Fill could be slowed, or the printer could pause between layers.
Perhaps this is the explanation of the infamous Benchy Hull Line? Layer time is lower when above the layer where there is infill?
when you bumpped it back to 200, it didnt show the green. Did the file just need to be resliced. period?
To me this seems to be minimum layer time causing this. After the first part is done, the printer has to do a lot less work per layer, so it slows down to still reach its minimum layer time. That's why the individual object is printed in the orange range completely, and not partially in the green range.
This is very helpful. Thank you! Have you encountered any issues with wall bulge at the wall transition (from base floor to wall)? I've been trying to find ways to remove it but still can't figure how. If you know how to solve that, please share.
thanks for sharing, this is very useful!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment
The problem is minimum layer time. The layer takes longer when there are two parts. Meaning the printer is able to move faster and still hit the minimum layer time. The faster speed means there is a higher flow rate, causing that matte look. Increasing the minimum layer time would slow the printer down, giving you the glossy look. Decreasing the minimum layer time would speed the printer up, giving you the matte look. Printing at higher speeds does affect part strength too. PLA that is melted properly should always have the glossy finish unless it is a special kind of PLA like PolyTerra Matte PLA.
This is actually the same reason everyone gets the bow line on benchy boats too.
looking at that bambu studio has the min layer time to low so it slows down. i would guess each of those layers once its one part is less than 5 seconds if at 200mm/s
Yea, lowering the minimum layer time is also a solution to this issue. I just didn't know about minimum layer time when I was filming this video.
Outstanding info!
Thanks, glad it was helpful
that's also a low infill print, so the bigger prints with a lot of infill it won't hurt you as much on time, because lower % of the print are walls. Another variable is that a high percentage of that 25 minutes is the bed leveling and all that stuff, doesn't that take like 8 minutes or something? So anyway my point is there are a lot of variables, but for the most part lowering the outer wall speed won't hurt the time much. Also not 100% sure but I think part of what decides the difference in speed / flow is overhangs, so you can play with those speeds, outer wall speeds, etc. and don't necessarily have to drop it by 50% might get away with less, maybe 150 instead of 100? idk just some random thoughts. Anyway thanks for posting this I was really getting annoyed by this problem, and didn't know about that speed/flow view thing.
Nicely done!
Thanks!
the color difference comes from "minimum layer time" it just prints the upper part slower then the ones below. if you have enough cooling you can reduce the minimum layer time or dont let it slow down.
you did the other way where speed reduction equals your outer wall speed.
(maybe orca/bambu removed the settings for this.. minimum layer time is a standard setting in prusa/super slicer under filament tab)
This is a feature that exists in Bambu Studio that I was not aware of at the time of filming this video. I still like the simplicity of slowing down outer walls. I should make a follow-up video about minimum layer time.
@@3DPrintStuff do you know how to configure it in bambu studio?
forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742@@Longinus
Nice tip!!! Thanks.
No problem! Glad it was helpful
How do you get rid of the seam?
Also, if you set the seam starting point to random it won't leave a joint where it starts and stops each layer...
thank you
You're welcome
Differences in layer time also cause this, not just speed. Infact a sharp transition in layer time has a greater visual impact that than speed.
Layer time is really just adjusting speed/flow rate via a different setting. You're basically adjusting the same thing. Lowering the outer wall speed just makes sure you get a consistent look across your entire print.
Actually no thats not true. Test it. If you print a cube at a fast speed with a low layer time you'll get a shinyish finish.
If you print the same cube at the same speed on the outer wall but drastically slow down the infill such that the layer time in total is 25 secs or so you'll end up with a matte finish. This is because the layer below it has had time to cool down and doesnt get reheated by the layer above.
Ive done many tests on this and this is the cause of a lot of the banding people see on the X1C with PLA.
As I said above you can mitigate it by slowing everything else (other than the outer layer) down.
If you slow the outer layer below 100mm/s you seem to get print artefacts on the X1C.
@@3DPrintStuff
I have been trying out a small increment of fuzzy skin to make better looking outer layers and have had some very good success in hiding the layers and seams, I have also been making some decorative ribs to hide seams, I also use Matte PLA and CF PLA to hide the layer lines.
Is the Bambu Basic PLA meant to be matt or glossy?
I'm having some problems with marks on the pieces, similar to your piece on the left at the beginning of the video. It's happening just on the right side of the table. It's as if the layers have space between them. Very common in conventional printers. Do you have a video that teaches you how to fix this? Or could you tell me what the name of the problem would be so that I can search for a solution.
Mine is the A1 mini
Very helpful, thank you.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment.
Make sure the nozzle temp is on the high end fans are going full blast when you lower that minimum layer time.
Otherwise you might clog the nozzle or extrude warped lines. Tis a careful balance.
I think slowing down the overall print speed was the better option haha.
Appreciate the input. I also feel that lowering the outer wall print speed is the better option even though I didn't know about minimum layer time while making this video. I think I'll make a follow up video exploring minimum layer times and comparing the print time and quality.
you may want to consider redesigning your holes not to have support. You really shouldn't need supports for those types of holes.
If you want them to look nicer you can turn the hole into more a teardrop shape at the top so the printer is printing a more gradual overhang instead of a sharper one with a circle.
even with a circle though it will print fine with no supports. it will just be a little messier at the top.
This happens to me when im printing multicolor. It sets different fan speeds and I get that result. Couldnt solve it yet
nice! Thanks!
btw I don't think you need supports for that small round hole.
You're probably right.
In fact, it is common in general for the color to change as the layer rises. I don't know why, in Bambu studio the printer speed slows down as the piece is nearing the end and this image appears. I haven't found a solution for this. Not only for binary parts but also for single parts, especially when printing complex and large parts, the printer speed slows down towards the last layers and this causes the color change. If anyone knows the solution, please write.
Have you played around with lowering "minimum layer times"? lots of models get smaller as they reach the top and bambu default settings are pretty generous with minimum layer times so the printer will slow down those layers with less surface area on them causing the color change. This forum post sounds similar to what you're describing forum.bambulab.com/t/print-slows-down-over-time/13498
@@3DPrintStuff Oh, yeah, finally. Thank you so much for your help.🖐👍👍
The PETcarbon fiber always comes out perfectly uniform and matt. It's just theregular PET that does that. Is it possible to print everything matt and still get good strength? Thank you so much for the tip.
You'd have to test and find out. On this print there wasn't any obvious difference in strength between the matte and glossy portions. But I didn't put it under load. So there weren't any issues with layer adhesion but they could show up if the part was put under load.
Great tips!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I like the matte finish.....so are you saying, if you print faster you get a matte finish?
That is correct.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Saw this video last week didn’t watch it, printed the preloaded benchy from my new x1c and got this result…said to myself shit where did that video go 😂😂😂
Is there any plausibility to evoid white line on slices (weld thing i suppose)?
It's on my to do list to make a video about the z-seams. You can choose "random" for the z seam but I find that looks worse on most prints. You can hide it with "fuzzy skin" but I personally don't want most of my parts to have fuzzy skin.
You can also adjust the wipe speed + gap settings but I haven't seen great differences setting these settings to their extremes.
Huh, interesting, saved this for later. Thank you, I did not know this could be an issue or what to even look for when something like this happens. I have had it only once on one of my prints using Cura.
Do you use a fast printer? It mainly shows up with fast printers, so people using bambulab studio notice it more because they're using bambu printers.
@@Mqrius No, just a stock Neptune 2S. So could also explain why I have only seen it once.
@@RoseKindred as far as I understand it's basically a temperature issue, so if you were printing with a pretty low nozzle temperature you could also experience this. Fast printers have it more because they push so much filament through that it doesn't quite have time to heat up fully
@@Mqrius Thank you for the additional information.
ayyyy these look familiar 🔥🔥🔥
nice man, thanx
I stumbled upon your video after ordering matte PLA specifically to obtain this effect... lol
Probably still worth it. I wouldn't want to rely solely on settings to produce the matte effect. You'd have to always be printing fast for matte which doesn't give you any room to troubleshoot other quality issues if you need to slow down at all.