I think most printers struggle with spherical objects, but I had never considered variable layer heights as a method of compensation. The results seem to speak for themselves, thanks for sharing this!
Yeah it's a property that all FDM printers have, wasn't trying to single out Bambu Lab. It's just a video specifically about Bambu Lab's Bambu Studio. Glad it was helpful.
Considering the steps are 100% a function of the gcode/slicer, ya, this affects all printers in precisely the same way. The only factor attributed to hardware is the nozzle size.
I've had very good results with Bambu slicer by using the same technique you've used, but I also made one other setting change. Under the Quality tab change the setting for ONLY ONE WALL ON TOP SURFACES to "Not Applied". I get a nice concentric pattern all the way to the last layer. Hope this helps.
What about a model of mandos naboo n1 starlighter with all those smooth curves, how do I get rid of those 0.08mm tiny waves lines that only show up in patches
I appreciate this. Some of my more recent videos have a bit more fluff in them. Maybe I need to go back to making some of these straight forward to the point videos.
Adaptive layer heights can be nice but only really work well if there's no other geometry in those layers of the print. Otherwise you'll get banding effects on those other things where the layer height changes. The big original problem with your sphere top is the solid fill lines sticking out. On Cura you can fix this by increasing the "extra skin wall count" enough that sloped surfaces show only these extra walls. Not sure if Bambu has a similar option. Just using more perimeters will fix it too, but of course has material cost.
Yeah variable layer height definitely has it's limitations. I don't see "extra skin wall count" as an option. I find Bambu studio a little limiting coming from Cura.
I've had variable layer heights on many complex models without problems. Even the adaptive layer height feature works great most of the time. I haven't ran into banding issues, unless the layer adjustments are not made in factors/multiples. You have to make sure, that whatever layer you're on (when you make the adjustment), that Z height is evenly divisible by the new target layer thickness. Say you've been printing at 0.4mm layer height, and you want to step down to 0.3mm, you're first opportunity to do this, without issue, is layer 12, as that's the first common multiple between 3 and 4. That also means, you'll get a chance to make this adjustment, cleanly, every 12th layer after: 24, 36, 48, etc. If you don't adjust on a layer that is a common multiple between the print height you are at, and the one you are targeting, then you'll either be too close, or too far away, for the next layer to mate perfectly with the previous layer.
Just got into 3d printing. Got my first 3d printer last week (Bambu lab a1 Mini for 199€, planing to upgrade next year. Wanted to start with the cheapest bambu printer) You’re videos are really helpful to make prints look better
Welcome to the club. I really like my A1 mini and find myself using it more than my X1C. By next year they may have released an updated printer with better features so that's a decent plan.
Concentric top layers also helps so you don't have the zig zagging dense infill pattern clashing with the round top. When going for a pretty piece, I always use concentric top layers when the object is round.
You are my hero! This week i will need to print some Products for our shop. I didnt look for a solution because the object is curved inwards and it does not affect its functionality but it will look soooo much better!
I use a plugin for my slicer that allows the print to run as a continuous spiral instead of layered circles. It removes the knit line running you have on your spheres and smooths out the top
Helpful video even though I already played with this a bit, I enjoyed seeing it in action here. I have also learned to flip some flat objects so the top faces the side to get them smoother.
Awesome! I've always hovered over that "Variable layer height" button, but never knew what it did until you explained it! I'm trying it now on a print to see how it comes out. Thank you!!
One day bambu will use ai to automatically scan our models and decide exactly what settings we need to optimize them with some sort of high powered cloud based slicer simulator subscription well pay for to give us nearly instant nearly perfect results back based on settings that are actually ai Taylor made for whatever we print and where options for strength and detail can be varied on different parts of the model and actually look like what we want.
Thanks, I had not really noticed the layer height button when slicing, since it's not in the left menu. Printed a curve just yesterday, where this would have helped.
Well, I wouldn't say that "Bambu Lab printers struggle with top layers", I would say you struggle to pick the correct settings for printing them. You literally picked different settings, and the same printer printed it well.
Fair point. "Default settings in bambu studio are not ideal for printing top surfaces of spheres" would have probably been a better opening statement. edit: misspelled bambu
Also an odd statement targeting Bambu for clicks. This isn’t a “Bambu” issue. All printers that use constant layer height will have issues with any curve as that curve approached “flat”. If your curve is large enough diameter you end up dealing with bridging issues. Again, not “Bambu” related, just FDM related.
@@greket1 I could have definitely picked my words better but I wasn't targeting Bambu. Bambu is just the platform that I use currently. If you would have preferred that I say "FDM printers struggle with top layers of spheres" that would still include the entire Bambu lineup of printers because they are currently all FDM printers. And the clicks come from the thumbnail/title, not the opening statement. I'm just trying to help people who may be struggling with this issue and don't know what tools are available to them.
It should be stated more clearly that this isnt an error. This is a result of physics. Layers were simply too thick to reoroduce the desired result. Its just a layer height issue. And this is but one way to fix it. You should also have explained why this is advantageous compared to just reducing layer height to like 0.08 from the beginning. These are the real meat and potatoes. This is important for new people who will simply think its easier to reduce layer height instead of attempting to learn this technique. Giving them a reason to try this harder variant instead is great to motivate.
Neither did I until I read the wiki for that feature! Pretty neat to have that much control and be able to pin point the area you want to have larger/smaller layer heights.
Marking this as a bambu issue or a top layer issue is strange when this is exactly the same on a bottom layer and on any other fdm printer. This points towards it just being a layer height issue and that the issue occurrs in relation to how close to the parallell plane of the printer bed the surface angle comes. The closer to horisontal the bigger the issue. Regardless if top or bottom. Ofcourse near horisontal overhangs (like 80-89 degrees) have their issues other than just this but it is relevant.
1:38 I had no idea you could change layer height using the layer map on the right. Great tip! Can you also add modifiers if you want to control smaller areas? Or does it want to do all layers across the plate the same?
It will do the layers of that object the same. So in this video I've got two objects on the same build plate sliced differently. But if you wanted to highlight just one part of an object I don't think you can do that.
great video, just a quick question... that line that goes down the sphere. is that removable too? I found your video looking for a way to remove that long line down the sphere but you didnt mention it. To be clear im talking about that white line shown on your object, not the rings. thank you
I've been working on ways to reduce that. Bambu studio doesn't really give you many tools to modify this appearance. You can change the seam position to hide it but on a model like this there's nowhere to hide it. There's also "Seam gap" and "Wipe speed" that you can play with but I don't have any recommended settings for those yet.
Years ago I saw a video with this new printing technique that didn't need to do flat layers, it could adjust Z height smoothly while on a given layer. How is this not commonplace in slivers/printers these days? Looked like it was going to be killer and it would handle things like this so much better.
Yeah that sounds cool. Experimental printers that have 5 axis also seem like the ideal method for getting nice smooth round surfaces. Or we just reduce the layer heights down so far that we can no longer perceive them.
3D printers struggle with spheres in general, it has nothing to do with brand. If anything bamboo Labs Prince Spheres better than any printer in this price bracket.
Yeah I'm playing with OrcaSlicer to release a video about seams cause they're pretty horrendous. I've gotten many comments saying use "Random" seam setting in Bambu Studio but I think that looks even worse.
0:00. Bambu Lab's printers do NOT struggle with the top surfaces of spheres. The problem has to do with the amount of x/y travel you have in relation to z travel. The more you increase the x/y to z ratio, the more pronounced the stepping effect will be. This is true for all 3D printers, and all CNC machines, and for all shapes that feature large x/y to z relationships. This is why reducing the layer thickness reduces the stepping effect, as you're getting less x/y travel before making another z graduation.
@@3DPrintStuff that would be better, though, it's not just spheres, but any shape where you have an extremely gentle slope, approaching flat, but not actually flat.
I’m trying to print a whole ping pong ball with only 1 layers walls @ 0.08mm. Every time the same pattern appears in the first 10% of the ball. The pattern looks like waves but the 🌊 are the missing material. The rest of it prints nicely. How do you ever start to trouble shoot that problem?
Thanks! Will use this next time I print out a figure where the only thing bothering me was that ugly lines on the head. 👌👍 While the adjusted sphere looks great in that aspect, it does draw lots of attention to the ugly seam. Fix one thing get another to fix 😅… will look if you have found some settings to make it less obvious.
Yeah the seams are pretty gross. There are a couple options like random or fuzzy skin but I don't like either of those... going to be working on a video about this soon. Teaching tech has a good video on an experimental feature called scarf joint seams: ruclips.net/video/vl0FT339jfc/видео.htmlsi=1dXRenmO0cjXSKuS
Just wondering why you didn't include the print times as you and I both know the default probably took 45 minutes and the one that's adaptive layer took three times as long
Good point, I didn't intentionally leave that out. Just slipped my mind while filming/editing. I'll keep this in mind for future videos and mention print times when it's relevant.
Is there a way to vary the layer height only from one nozzle path point to another leaving the rest of the print heights the same so the rounded part may get 3 layers vs 1 layer for the rest?
Not sure I completely understand what you're asking but you can choose to have just the top of the sphere modified and the rest of the model stay at the default layer height. You would just use the tool in this video and specify just the top portion to be smaller layer heights. Or do you mean if a model has geometry that isn't connected to the other parts of that layer and you only want to specify one part of the object to be a specific layer height ? You can't do this unfortunately, the entire layer for the object will have the same layer height.
I bet it'll also be Bambu Lab that'll introduce this: "Seamless 3D Printing". As they're the Apple of 3D printing right now. The Apple with Steve Jobs, I mean, not the current depressing company. What a bright future ahead!
Your print looks great! I’ve a Kickstarter X1C and my prints have VFA issues. I’ve followed the auto belt tension guide but that hasn’t helped. Any suggestions/advice?
have you run a calibration routine after performing the auto belt tensioning? I would try the tensioning again and perform a calibration of the printer. VFA from my understanding comes from the stepper motors vibrating, what speeds are you printing at?
That's in the works... bambu studio doesn't give you much to work with when it comes to cleaning up the seams. You can choose "random" but in my experience random looks worse.
That is the Z Seam where the extruder stops and ooze out a bit which is normal. Search for bambulab pressure advance to calibrate it. Probably calibrate it manually to receive better results
like @xBlackPumAx13 said, it's the z-seam. Pressure advance is an option but I wish there were some more tools for troubleshooting this issue. There is a random seam location option that I think looks worse than the aligned seam you see in this video. If I manage to get rid of the seam for the most part, that'll be my next video.
Standard prusa slicer setting that this slicer was forked from. Nothing new here but I guess a lot of new bamboo customers would have no idea about that…
Thanks for this tip! Would this setting work on a helmet dome top or would it mess with the rest of the helmet model and screw some other area up? It sounds like a great fix for the issue on helmet dome tops
You're welcome! It would definitely work on helmets, that's one of the best use cases for this feature. You can choose to vary the layer height only on the very top of the helmet and so the rest of the helmet will be unaffected.
You can select "Random" on the Seam position parameter but I think that looks worse in lots of situations. You can also use fuzzy skin to hide it but that isn't a solution on silk models or models that need dimensional accuracy. Teaching tech has a good video about an experimental slicer feature that could be the answer: ruclips.net/video/vl0FT339jfc/видео.html&ab_channel=TeachingTech
yea i just learned about the fuzzy skin option which does look really interesting. my bambu is in the mail now so i'm learning what i can! @@3DPrintStuff
so far i just plan on using PLA, but that is news about silk i may look into printing with some other materials in time.. just to make stronger bonded stuff or maybe things that have just a little more give when twisted.@@3DPrintStuff
You start to make tradeoffs with that technique. More supports will be needed and can ruin the bottom surface. Not an issue if the bottom surface doesn't matter but maybe that bottom surface is a matting surface and you need it to be relatively clean and flat. You'll also have an edge that isn't as nice.
Yes and all Bambu labs printers are fdm printers. I should have made a more blanket statement that fdm printers produce this result but this is a video specifically about Bambu studio.
Are we really going to pretend this is a new, never seen before, feature? As if it was not introduced on 10/02/2017 in Slic3r 1.33.3 - Prusa Edition and on 14/02/2018 in Cura 3.2.0?
As i opened this up he better not jist use adaptive layer height. He better not use afaptive layer height...of course. Why bother making a video of something that is so basic. It is not new, not interesting, not little known.
I'm kind of baffled by the description of this "problem". saying that "bambu printers really struggle with the top surfaces of spheres" is like saying "cars built by mitsubishi struggle with losing traction on icy surfaces". stepping is intrinsic to fdm printing, and losing traction in icy conditions is intrinsic to all vehicles with rubber tires moving at speed on icy roads. or just moving on an icy surface in general lol. super ridiculous to phrase the issue as if there's something about any particular fdm printer that makes the problem more prevalent.
Yeah that's fair criticism, a few other people have commented similar things and my response has been that "Default settings in bambu studio are not ideal for printing top surfaces of spheres" would have probably been a better opening statement.
I think most printers struggle with spherical objects, but I had never considered variable layer heights as a method of compensation. The results seem to speak for themselves, thanks for sharing this!
Yeah it's a property that all FDM printers have, wasn't trying to single out Bambu Lab. It's just a video specifically about Bambu Lab's Bambu Studio. Glad it was helpful.
@@3DPrintStuff I'm also kinda hooked on your channel now, keep it up these videos are fantastic!
@@TapticDigital That's awesome, makes me really happy to hear that.
Considering the steps are 100% a function of the gcode/slicer, ya, this affects all printers in precisely the same way. The only factor attributed to hardware is the nozzle size.
I've had very good results with Bambu slicer by using the same technique you've used, but I also made one other setting change. Under the Quality tab change the setting for ONLY ONE WALL ON TOP SURFACES to "Not Applied". I get a nice concentric pattern all the way to the last layer. Hope this helps.
This is a big improvement thanks
I'm definitely gonna try it. Thank you!
What about a model of mandos naboo n1 starlighter with all those smooth curves, how do I get rid of those 0.08mm tiny waves lines that only show up in patches
This comment is underrated , thanks for the tip 🤙🏼
Your opening statement is true for all 3d printers.
Nice
Bro. Your videos are literally the most useful, fast, easy to consume 3dp videos I've seen since getting one... which was like a week ago, but still.
I appreciate this. Some of my more recent videos have a bit more fluff in them. Maybe I need to go back to making some of these straight forward to the point videos.
Adaptive layer heights can be nice but only really work well if there's no other geometry in those layers of the print. Otherwise you'll get banding effects on those other things where the layer height changes.
The big original problem with your sphere top is the solid fill lines sticking out. On Cura you can fix this by increasing the "extra skin wall count" enough that sloped surfaces show only these extra walls. Not sure if Bambu has a similar option. Just using more perimeters will fix it too, but of course has material cost.
Yeah variable layer height definitely has it's limitations.
I don't see "extra skin wall count" as an option. I find Bambu studio a little limiting coming from Cura.
I've had variable layer heights on many complex models without problems. Even the adaptive layer height feature works great most of the time. I haven't ran into banding issues, unless the layer adjustments are not made in factors/multiples. You have to make sure, that whatever layer you're on (when you make the adjustment), that Z height is evenly divisible by the new target layer thickness. Say you've been printing at 0.4mm layer height, and you want to step down to 0.3mm, you're first opportunity to do this, without issue, is layer 12, as that's the first common multiple between 3 and 4. That also means, you'll get a chance to make this adjustment, cleanly, every 12th layer after: 24, 36, 48, etc. If you don't adjust on a layer that is a common multiple between the print height you are at, and the one you are targeting, then you'll either be too close, or too far away, for the next layer to mate perfectly with the previous layer.
@@3DPrintStuff
I would think it could be set as a height modifier.
You can also make your layer height stupid low. Obviously this will slow the process
Great video man, short yet detailed and very well explained
You can also use a concentric Top surface pattern, which is going to help with the finish
Thank you for sharing
Just got into 3d printing. Got my first 3d printer last week (Bambu lab a1 Mini for 199€, planing to upgrade next year. Wanted to start with the cheapest bambu printer)
You’re videos are really helpful to make prints look better
Welcome to the club. I really like my A1 mini and find myself using it more than my X1C. By next year they may have released an updated printer with better features so that's a decent plan.
I had no idea you would manually adjust these with the slider on the right. Good video!
Thanks! Glad you learned something.
Concentric top layers also helps so you don't have the zig zagging dense infill pattern clashing with the round top. When going for a pretty piece, I always use concentric top layers when the object is round.
Where is concentric layers in bambu studio?
CURA also variable Layer height...with any printer
Yes, you are right
Dang great info and a simple solution to a problem that has vexed me!
You can also change the "top surface pattern" to be "concentric" in combination with the variable layer height to get a even better result
Your videos are great, Short, sweet, and to the point thank you for your help.
Glad you like them, thanks for the comment.
You are my hero! This week i will need to print some Products for our shop. I didnt look for a solution because the object is curved inwards and it does not affect its functionality but it will look soooo much better!
I use a plugin for my slicer that allows the print to run as a continuous spiral instead of layered circles. It removes the knit line running you have on your spheres and smooths out the top
Will surely use this feature in the future, just haven't needed it yet. Thanks!
Helpful video even though I already played with this a bit, I enjoyed seeing it in action here. I have also learned to flip some flat objects so the top faces the side to get them smoother.
very useful! Thank you
Awesome! I've always hovered over that "Variable layer height" button, but never knew what it did until you explained it! I'm trying it now on a print to see how it comes out. Thank you!!
Glad you learned something. How did the print turn out?
One day bambu will use ai to automatically scan our models and decide exactly what settings we need to optimize them with some sort of high powered cloud based slicer simulator subscription well pay for to give us nearly instant nearly perfect results back based on settings that are actually ai Taylor made for whatever we print and where options for strength and detail can be varied on different parts of the model and actually look like what we want.
Thanks, I had not really noticed the layer height button when slicing, since it's not in the left menu.
Printed a curve just yesterday, where this would have helped.
Well, I wouldn't say that "Bambu Lab printers struggle with top layers", I would say you struggle to pick the correct settings for printing them. You literally picked different settings, and the same printer printed it well.
Fair point. "Default settings in bambu studio are not ideal for printing top surfaces of spheres" would have probably been a better opening statement.
edit: misspelled bambu
Also an odd statement targeting Bambu for clicks. This isn’t a “Bambu” issue. All printers that use constant layer height will have issues with any curve as that curve approached “flat”. If your curve is large enough diameter you end up dealing with bridging issues. Again, not “Bambu” related, just FDM related.
@@greket1 I could have definitely picked my words better but I wasn't targeting Bambu. Bambu is just the platform that I use currently. If you would have preferred that I say "FDM printers struggle with top layers of spheres" that would still include the entire Bambu lineup of printers because they are currently all FDM printers.
And the clicks come from the thumbnail/title, not the opening statement. I'm just trying to help people who may be struggling with this issue and don't know what tools are available to them.
I guess today is “provide useful information, get yelled at” day?
@@karmachameleon326Some people will never be satisfied, even with free.
very useful indeed, thx.
I really wish I had found this feature a month ago! Thx.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful.
It should be stated more clearly that this isnt an error. This is a result of physics. Layers were simply too thick to reoroduce the desired result. Its just a layer height issue. And this is but one way to fix it.
You should also have explained why this is advantageous compared to just reducing layer height to like 0.08 from the beginning. These are the real meat and potatoes. This is important for new people who will simply think its easier to reduce layer height instead of attempting to learn this technique. Giving them a reason to try this harder variant instead is great to motivate.
Very nice feature, we need more ! Thanks for your work !
More to come! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks! i never thought to click on the sidebar to adjust the layer height
Neither did I until I read the wiki for that feature! Pretty neat to have that much control and be able to pin point the area you want to have larger/smaller layer heights.
very helpful tip
Glad it was helpful
i love your tech videos. may i share it with my friends who can not access youtube? Thanks.
Marking this as a bambu issue or a top layer issue is strange when this is exactly the same on a bottom layer and on any other fdm printer. This points towards it just being a layer height issue and that the issue occurrs in relation to how close to the parallell plane of the printer bed the surface angle comes. The closer to horisontal the bigger the issue. Regardless if top or bottom.
Ofcourse near horisontal overhangs (like 80-89 degrees) have their issues other than just this but it is relevant.
the general user-experience of bambu stuff, from hardware to software is just incredible
This is also good for shallow slopes.
Thanks so much, got it and works great
Glad it helped
does it works on angled surfaces too ? to get rid of this steps
Yes
1:38 I had no idea you could change layer height using the layer map on the right. Great tip! Can you also add modifiers if you want to control smaller areas? Or does it want to do all layers across the plate the same?
It will do the layers of that object the same. So in this video I've got two objects on the same build plate sliced differently. But if you wanted to highlight just one part of an object I don't think you can do that.
great video, just a quick question... that line that goes down the sphere. is that removable too? I found your video looking for a way to remove that long line down the sphere but you didnt mention it. To be clear im talking about that white line shown on your object, not the rings. thank you
WONDERFUL VIDEO!
Impressive!!! Thank you.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment.
Thx!
No problem!
Very usedful thank you
You're welcome, glad it was useful.
great to know. what about the seam? I feel like its pretty bad, Ill have to try random maybe that helps.
I find random looks worse most of the time but that's just personal preference. I don't have any good suggestions at the moment but I'm working on it.
In addition to using layer height you could go to machine setting and lower the minimum layer height from .08 to something like .04
yeah .04 would make that top portion look even better.
Except you can forget about printing reliably at 0.04 mm layer height except MAYBE with a 0.2mm nozzle.
Thanks for the tip! Getting ready to buy a bambu P1S. Im EXCITED!
Nice, I've got the X1C but if the P1S was available back when I got mine I'd probably have gone with the P1S. Enjoy!
thanks!
Very helpful. Is there any way to get rid of or reduce the start stop layer bulge besides move it to a less visible spot?
I've been working on ways to reduce that. Bambu studio doesn't really give you many tools to modify this appearance. You can change the seam position to hide it but on a model like this there's nowhere to hide it.
There's also "Seam gap" and "Wipe speed" that you can play with but I don't have any recommended settings for those yet.
Not surprising really as adaptive layer height is also a PrusaSlicer feature and BambuSlicer is basically a reskin of PrusaSlicer.
some of us scrubs are coming over from cura so this definitely helped a ton for me.
I believe Cura has adaptive layer height which is an equivalent. But I also came from Cura and had never heard of adaptive layer height either.
Bambuslicer is orcaslicer
Technically, orcaslicer is Bambu slicer. Cura->Prusa->Bambu->Orca
thanks!
You’re welcome!
Years ago I saw a video with this new printing technique that didn't need to do flat layers, it could adjust Z height smoothly while on a given layer. How is this not commonplace in slivers/printers these days? Looked like it was going to be killer and it would handle things like this so much better.
Yeah that sounds cool. Experimental printers that have 5 axis also seem like the ideal method for getting nice smooth round surfaces. Or we just reduce the layer heights down so far that we can no longer perceive them.
Any way to get rid of that white seam?
3D printers struggle with spheres in general, it has nothing to do with brand. If anything bamboo Labs Prince Spheres better than any printer in this price bracket.
Thanks for this.
No worries
is there also a way to fix bottom layers? i made some kind of bowl and bottom of the inside of the bowl looks horrible..
If only they had a feature to smooth out the seams more
Yeah I'm playing with OrcaSlicer to release a video about seams cause they're pretty horrendous. I've gotten many comments saying use "Random" seam setting in Bambu Studio but I think that looks even worse.
0:00. Bambu Lab's printers do NOT struggle with the top surfaces of spheres. The problem has to do with the amount of x/y travel you have in relation to z travel. The more you increase the x/y to z ratio, the more pronounced the stepping effect will be. This is true for all 3D printers, and all CNC machines, and for all shapes that feature large x/y to z relationships. This is why reducing the layer thickness reduces the stepping effect, as you're getting less x/y travel before making another z graduation.
Fair point. "Default settings in bambu studio are not ideal for printing top surfaces of spheres" would have probably been a better opening statement.
@@3DPrintStuff that would be better, though, it's not just spheres, but any shape where you have an extremely gentle slope, approaching flat, but not actually flat.
Do you have a 3d printing channel ? I think i'd rather watch your videos lol.
I’m trying to print a whole ping pong ball with only 1 layers walls @ 0.08mm. Every time the same pattern appears in the first 10% of the ball. The pattern looks like waves but the 🌊 are the missing material. The rest of it prints nicely. How do you ever start to trouble shoot that problem?
I would be more concerned about the seam TBH, vase mode would be my choice if the part did not need infill.
Yeah the seams are pretty bad on this print.
Yea it’s useful I got jus the job for this trick I came across this problem
awesome, what are you going to print using this tip?
Thanks! Will use this next time I print out a figure where the only thing bothering me was that ugly lines on the head. 👌👍
While the adjusted sphere looks great in that aspect, it does draw lots of attention to the ugly seam. Fix one thing get another to fix 😅… will look if you have found some settings to make it less obvious.
Yeah the seams are pretty gross. There are a couple options like random or fuzzy skin but I don't like either of those... going to be working on a video about this soon. Teaching tech has a good video on an experimental feature called scarf joint seams: ruclips.net/video/vl0FT339jfc/видео.htmlsi=1dXRenmO0cjXSKuS
Just wondering why you didn't include the print times as you and I both know the default probably took 45 minutes and the one that's adaptive layer took three times as long
Good point, I didn't intentionally leave that out. Just slipped my mind while filming/editing. I'll keep this in mind for future videos and mention print times when it's relevant.
Now all you need to do is fix the VFAs with PLA prints. Which according to their support team can not be fixed…
Is there a way to vary the layer height only from one nozzle path point to another leaving the rest of the print heights the same so the rounded part may get 3 layers vs 1 layer for the rest?
Not sure I completely understand what you're asking but you can choose to have just the top of the sphere modified and the rest of the model stay at the default layer height. You would just use the tool in this video and specify just the top portion to be smaller layer heights.
Or do you mean if a model has geometry that isn't connected to the other parts of that layer and you only want to specify one part of the object to be a specific layer height ? You can't do this unfortunately, the entire layer for the object will have the same layer height.
What about that line on the top
It increases time to finish =( but really works good
It does increase print time, should have mentioned that. There's always a trade off in 3D printing and it's usually time vs quality.
@@3DPrintStuff
Hi there,
Would adding an the ironing feature improve it even more?
Thanks.
does this adjust the layer height for the entire model? or just the wall layer?
It adjusts for the entire layer so your walls, infill and support are adjusted.
Will they ever be able to get rid of that seam, though?
I bet it'll also be Bambu Lab that'll introduce this: "Seamless 3D Printing". As they're the Apple of 3D printing right now. The Apple with Steve Jobs, I mean, not the current depressing company. What a bright future ahead!
There are printers who have no problems printing that without tunning layer height? (FDM)
This is a problem on all FDM printers. This video is specific to Bambu labs printers and using their slicer so that's where the statement comes from.
Your print looks great! I’ve a Kickstarter X1C and my prints have VFA issues. I’ve followed the auto belt tension guide but that hasn’t helped. Any suggestions/advice?
have you run a calibration routine after performing the auto belt tensioning? I would try the tensioning again and perform a calibration of the printer. VFA from my understanding comes from the stepper motors vibrating, what speeds are you printing at?
Nice tip! Anything you can do to clean up that seam though?
That's in the works... bambu studio doesn't give you much to work with when it comes to cleaning up the seams. You can choose "random" but in my experience random looks worse.
@@3DPrintStuffwhat about "nearest"?
great tips!But, just a question, why the printer create that vertical side string on the sphere?Can be fixed??
That is the Z Seam where the extruder stops and ooze out a bit which is normal. Search for bambulab pressure advance to calibrate it. Probably calibrate it manually to receive better results
@@Phate777 thanks for your answer! 🤓
like @xBlackPumAx13 said, it's the z-seam. Pressure advance is an option but I wish there were some more tools for troubleshooting this issue. There is a random seam location option that I think looks worse than the aligned seam you see in this video. If I manage to get rid of the seam for the most part, that'll be my next video.
the result still left some to desire
Standard prusa slicer setting that this slicer was forked from. Nothing new here but I guess a lot of new bamboo customers would have no idea about that…
Thanks for this tip! Would this setting work on a helmet dome top or would it mess with the rest of the helmet model and screw some other area up? It sounds like a great fix for the issue on helmet dome tops
adjust where you want it to start the variable layer height with the thing on the right side like he was showing.
You're welcome! It would definitely work on helmets, that's one of the best use cases for this feature. You can choose to vary the layer height only on the very top of the helmet and so the rest of the helmet will be unaffected.
@@3DPrintStuff Thanks!
This has nothing to do with any particular printer brand or slicer. This is the physics of FDM printers...
well, actually you need to disable: one contour on the upper layers! and everything will be fine!
Are you sure that artefact on the top of the sphere is not a feature XD
It's not bambu lab printers, it's FDM printers who struggles with such features.
Yes
and nothing can be done to get rid of that awful line up the side? maybe it's just because it's so small?
You can select "Random" on the Seam position parameter but I think that looks worse in lots of situations. You can also use fuzzy skin to hide it but that isn't a solution on silk models or models that need dimensional accuracy. Teaching tech has a good video about an experimental slicer feature that could be the answer: ruclips.net/video/vl0FT339jfc/видео.html&ab_channel=TeachingTech
yea i just learned about the fuzzy skin option which does look really interesting. my bambu is in the mail now so i'm learning what i can! @@3DPrintStuff
so far i just plan on using PLA, but that is news about silk i may look into printing with some other materials in time.. just to make stronger bonded stuff or maybe things that have just a little more give when twisted.@@3DPrintStuff
Now set the seam to be in a random location (Cura has an option for this, not sure about this slicer) to get rid of that incredibly ugly seam 😂
Random looks worse in my opinion. I am testing some features in OrcaSlicer to try and reduce the visibility of seams.
Random will just turn that line into random zits all over the surface.
tip from a dude with no channel and no subs. increase your wallcount to 3 or 4. your infill is showing ;)
Another trick is to rotate the model so the sphere isn't on top anymore. Put the most detailed or problematic area toward a side insead of the top.
You start to make tradeoffs with that technique. More supports will be needed and can ruin the bottom surface. Not an issue if the bottom surface doesn't matter but maybe that bottom surface is a matting surface and you need it to be relatively clean and flat. You'll also have an edge that isn't as nice.
But this is not a problem with Bambu printers, it is simply due to the FDM technology
Yes and all Bambu labs printers are fdm printers. I should have made a more blanket statement that fdm printers produce this result but this is a video specifically about Bambu studio.
And you forgot do disable one layer on top 😂
30 min print to 2hr 41 min print
16min to 24min
Are we really going to pretend this is a new, never seen before, feature?
As if it was not introduced on 10/02/2017 in Slic3r 1.33.3 - Prusa Edition and on 14/02/2018 in Cura 3.2.0?
Not pretending It's a new feature. Many people are new to 3D printing and are not familiar with the tools available.
I should call her...
As i opened this up he better not jist use adaptive layer height. He better not use afaptive layer height...of course. Why bother making a video of something that is so basic. It is not new, not interesting, not little known.
There are new people entering the hobby everyday. This video is for them.
But that seam looks awful!
ruclips.net/video/pS6kU-TXDbE/видео.htmlsi=C2Q2IsbmiEZLWcpr
@@3DPrintStuff
I hope Orca can slice for Prusa MK4. As to seams (and a few other things) Prusa Slicer is a disaster.
I'm kind of baffled by the description of this "problem". saying that "bambu printers really struggle with the top surfaces of spheres" is like saying "cars built by mitsubishi struggle with losing traction on icy surfaces". stepping is intrinsic to fdm printing, and losing traction in icy conditions is intrinsic to all vehicles with rubber tires moving at speed on icy roads. or just moving on an icy surface in general lol. super ridiculous to phrase the issue as if there's something about any particular fdm printer that makes the problem more prevalent.
Yeah that's fair criticism, a few other people have commented similar things and my response has been that "Default settings in bambu studio are not ideal for printing top surfaces of spheres" would have probably been a better opening statement.
Or “using cool, new slicer feature of Cura, BambuSlicer, and PrusaSlicer to improve the top surfaces of your spheres.”