I going to attempt my first pocket door. I like your video because you leave one side of sheetrock up. In other scenes it looks like you have both side off. Is it impossible to install leaving one side of rock up?
If I'm opening an existing wall, I try to leave one side up because it's less work to patch and sometimes there's no access to it like a cabinet. If you're careful and use these techniques, it's not that hard. Good luck and thanks for watching.
There are different procedures for load bearing walls, and I'm familiar with them all. This was in CA which has some of the best and most strict building codes. But when you've done contracting for as long as I have, you'd be shocked at what you find that actually works. For example. Tile glued to a plywood wall with no waterproofing and yet it worked fine for 20 years with no leaks. Codes and rules are great, and yet even without them, some crazy things still work. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks for creating it. Question on the split jambs. What 1500 sub model did you use. Im not seeing the 1500 with a wood insert, only metal. So im not sure how to attach my drywall.
They don't specify the wood part but it's in there. It's a "c" shaped channel. the metal side faces in and the wood faces out to the drywall. Make sure to use 1" screws. Thanks for watching.
I have everything up and running smoothly, just need to paint. I was wondering why the header had to be at 84.5" . the rail system of the pocket door does not even reach that height. there seems to be about a 2' gap between header and rail. I was assuming that the rail was going to be screwed into that header..Thanks for the the very informative video.
That's what Johnson recommends for the way they prefer to install it. I've since disregarded that. I don't even use their mounting brackets anymore. I just screw the track to the header. Easier and more secure. Then it's simple math. The wheels hang off the track, door hangs off the wheels, need some clearance above finished floor. Allow for those an you're good. Thanks for watching.
Amazing video 👏 Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough and explanatory!
Dude! Great videos. Very well explained with photos and video.
Hey, my man, I appreciate the kind words. I'm happy to share the knowledge whenever I can. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Thank you, sir.
I'm glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it
I going to attempt my first pocket door. I like your video because you leave one side of sheetrock up. In other scenes it looks like you have both side off. Is it impossible to install leaving one side of rock up?
If I'm opening an existing wall, I try to leave one side up because it's less work to patch and sometimes there's no access to it like a cabinet. If you're careful and use these techniques, it's not that hard. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Is that jack stud a 1x4?? Please tell me that's not a load bearing wall
There are different procedures for load bearing walls, and I'm familiar with them all. This was in CA which has some of the best and most strict building codes. But when you've done contracting for as long as I have, you'd be shocked at what you find that actually works. For example. Tile glued to a plywood wall with no waterproofing and yet it worked fine for 20 years with no leaks. Codes and rules are great, and yet even without them, some crazy things still work. Thanks for watching.
what is the total thickness of the wall?
I believe that one was 4.5" thick. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks for creating it. Question on the split jambs. What 1500 sub model did you use. Im not seeing the 1500 with a wood insert, only metal. So im not sure how to attach my drywall.
They don't specify the wood part but it's in there. It's a "c" shaped channel. the metal side faces in and the wood faces out to the drywall. Make sure to use 1" screws. Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty sure they discontinued the ones with the wood insert. Now they are made with 100% steel split studs.
Are you able to use fine threaded drywall screws then for the metal framing? Would there be space so that the screws don’t hit the door?
I have everything up and running smoothly, just need to paint. I was wondering why the header had to be at 84.5" . the rail system of the pocket door does not even reach that height. there seems to be about a 2' gap between header and rail. I was assuming that the rail was going to be screwed into that header..Thanks for the the very informative video.
That's what Johnson recommends for the way they prefer to install it. I've since disregarded that. I don't even use their mounting brackets anymore. I just screw the track to the header. Easier and more secure. Then it's simple math. The wheels hang off the track, door hangs off the wheels, need some clearance above finished floor. Allow for those an you're good. Thanks for watching.
Grate information Mr. 👍
I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.
How long do those plastic slow closers last?
I don't know what the life span is, but Johnson hardware is very high quality. I've never seen one fail. Thanks for watching.
Great video...👌
Thanks 🙂