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How To Install a Pocket Door Frame Johnson Hardware 1500 Kit
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- Опубликовано: 1 янв 2018
- How to install a pocket door frame with Johnson Hardware 1500 kit during new construction. This is how I install a pocket door frame kit when framing walls. The Johnson hardware video was confusing to me and a lot of others so I decided to make my own.
amzn.to/2qiQbUv Here is where you can find the Pocket door frame kit.
amzn.to/2A7h2T2 Here you can get the 1060 soft open and close rollers, they are sweet!
amzn.to/2Ctz0UN Here is the Loctite Power Grab construction ahesive for fastening to concrete. It’s awesome stuff!
• How To Hang and Trim O... here's the 2nd video I made about trimming out this pocket door.
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I hope this video helped you. Thanks for watching.
Song credit -
Redwood Highway by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
Really great step by step instructions. Very clear and easy to understand. I've never used one of these kits before and wanted to get a good visual overview before getting started and your video was excellent.
Thanks I appreciate that. I’m glad it was helpful. Good luck with your project! 👍👊
@@SmartEasyDIYer I AGREE. YOU ARE UP THERE WITH SILVA from This Old House in terms of simple, clear directions. :)
Thank you that’s a very nice compliment! 😊
This is the best pocket door install video I’ve found.
Thank you!
100% agree, great video, good information
@Kerwonderful thank you!
Excellent video, very descriptive, I am presently framing for 3 pocket doors, the only thing that I would recommend would be to pilot drill the top screw holes in the supports to eliminate wood splitting . Pilot drilling also allows for more precise screw location .
Thank you! Yes that’s a good plan to pre drill. 👍
Most helpful video I've watched on how to do this! Thanks! Going to give it a go today.
Awesome thank you! I’m glad it helped. Best of luck with your project.
Great video! Very clear, good clear description on how to install with good commentary notes. If you filmed the completion of the installation, I would love to see it. thanks.
Thanks I appreciate that. I am still in the stage of getting ready for drywall so I haven’t completed the trimming out yet.
I watched your video multiple times to install two pocket door frames a few months apart. I like that you get right into what you’re going to talk about. I had trouble getting the cut wood pieces pryed off. The staples stayed in and pulled through the wood. Then it was a bit of a struggle to pry the long staples out. You made it look so easy! Very nice, clear and direct presentation. Good job!
Thank you! I’m glad you got it.
Just purchased the exact kit. This video just made my days work so much easier! Thank you!
Awesome!!
This video was better and easier to understand than the one put out by the manufacturer. Thank you for posting!
Thanks I tried. I had a hard time with the one by the manufacturer too that’s why I decided to make one myself. Thanks for the comment.
You are straight to the point, easy to follow instructions.. look forward to more projects!
Thanks Derek I really appreciate it! 😊👊
One of the best videos I've seen for these Johnson kits. Very clear and covering almost all necessary points. "Almost"? The only other point I would add, is the studs sometimes also have a left and right, as well as the up and down. As you showed, the 2 holes go to the top so you can screw through it. Also, down one side only on each piece, there is a series of holes on the edge. Place them on the left or right, so those holes are facing INTO the open door half, not the "wall" half. This is so the trim work can be brad-nailed on through the holes and into the wood. These ones appear to have the holes on BOTH edges, but I've seen some with the holes on just one edge only which makes it impossible to fire the brads through if installed backwards. (A mistake I've made myself).
Ok thanks for the tip. Yeah for mine they had holes in both sides so it didn’t matter either which one they were used for. Maybe the newer ones they do that. Thanks.
Good point i am about to install one of this door i will make sure tha i have stud for the trim
Excellent, thanks for making the installation so simple. 2 thumbs up.
Awesome thanks I appreciate that! 👍👊
This video saved me. My kit didn’t come with any instructions, none what-so-ever. Amazing video, THANK YOU!
Awesome I’m so glad it helped! Good job!
Thank you SOOO much for adding the information about what the final gap under the door will be - exactly what I need to know.
You’re welcome. Good luck with it!
Very nice detailed video, and quite accurate. I've installed 5 of these Johnson Pocket doors, including two sets of double doors that meet in the middle. My first double set has been hanging for 11 years, with ZERO issues. Great video, and great product.
Thanks Michael I appreciate the input and I agree I haven’t had any issues with mine either! 👊
How did you do the double door meeting in the middle? I need to do the same, bur the instructions make me believe a block is necessary in between? But then the doors wouldn't reach each other.
Did you do soft close/open for your converging doors? Wanting to do that with mine!
Thanks for the video, nice job. Nice to see you may have a helper soon. He looks like a good kid. I'm working on my grand daughter she's about the same age, and loves tools.
Thanks so much! Yes I have a great helper. He loves tools and building stuff too! 😁
Very Helpful ! Thanks for including useful tips above and beyond!
Thank you I’m glad it was useful. 👍
Thank you ... straight forward video, this will help me as its my first time for a pocket door installation.
Awesome I’m glad! Good luck with your project! 👍👊
Thank you for making this video! It was a very great guide to making this turn out perfectly
Thanks I’m so glad it turned out well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Your video was a lifesaver, I cannot thank you enough for your help! Keep doing what you’re doing.
Thank you for letting me know!
Thanks for explaining step by step. With no loud background music.
You’re welcome! I did experiment one time with some music and it wasn’t loud in my editor But after the fact it was too loud in my videos so I just gave up on it except for quietly in some Timelapse’s occasionally. Thanks for the input.
Nice video, thank you. Leaving a larger gap at the bottom of bathroom doors will allow for a better inflow of air when the exaust fan is utilized. Most times the foggy mirrors and ceiling moisture occurs when the exaust fan struggles to do it's job. The bottom of the door really plays no part in privacy. Give a hug to your son.
Thank you!
Nice and clear, step by step. Thanks. My kit had a different name, but it was the same as yours, not one of the wood frame ones, like in other videos.
Thank you! Yes I think they went to a newer design on that part.
I just installed my first pocket door ever and I'm sure glad you had this video to show how to install this Johnson 1500 pocket door frame. There is no way I would have been able to have followed those crazy directions that they supply. So thank you for this DIY and the one that follows on the Soft Close install
Awesome great job!! You’re welcome I’m glad if it was helpful. I also struggled with the directions that they provide.
the instructions might as well be written in mathematical algorythms.. its so bad.
😂😂
Thank you! Installing one tomorrow, your video was amazingly clear on the process!
Awesome good luck with it!
Curious how it turned out. My experience has been that these kits leave you with walls that are unacceptably flimsy.
Did my install today it was actually two of them I got them both in within 6 hours of course I had a labor with me and it all went perfect well maybe not perfect but I was able to fix the things they weren't and I thank you for it I really appreciate it
Awesome I’m glad it went well great job!
Thanks for the video! Very clear and to the point!
Awesome! Thanks
Very Nicely Done, Thanks for sharing. If you are ever in Florida you can put one in for me!
Thanks. I would love to come in the winter again sometime. 😄
great video! doing this in a few weeks and this was very helpful.
Thanks Jeff I’m glad you found it helpful! Good luck with your install!
Great video. Clear and easy to follow. Thank you!!
Thank you!
way more clear than the instruction booklet. thanks for sharing!
Thank you! 😊
Great video. Easy to follow. Extremely helpful.
Thank you!
You did a great job with the visual how to on this installation.... I like how this kit is made in the USA, in Elkhart, but the 3-language
instruction sheet needed your video backup.................. now if we could just get nails and screws made in our country again...
Thank you! Yes we need some good USA fasteners again.
Perfect video! Thank you for doing this video it made it so much easier the instructions I got from Rona in Canada we're mainly french and we're so shitty, the instructions were as bad as Chinese instructions. Thank you once again lifesaver!
Awesome! Thanks
You did a great job on this video!
Thank you Scott! 👊
I like your video a lot the third one I seen I'm about to install a pocket door tomorrow and yours was the most helpful thank you very much
Thank you for letting me know!
Good luck with your install!
Great video... easily 2x as good as the manufacturers instructional video
Thank you! Glad it helped.
Dec 2022, Pocket door Johnson Hardware 1500 series -
Still a life saver for me. Ay updates? This explained a lot to me that the printed on instructions were weak on
Thank you! I haven’t done any recently too see if there’s differences expect my father in law did one and the middle upright pieces are all metal now I believe so you need self tapping screws for drywall attachment. That’s the only difference that I’m aware of.
Excellent Video I bought two of these to install in bathrooms and the instructions that come with it are a bit too confusing to me. This step by step guided video greatly help me understand the steps needed to install them successfully. Thank You !.
Thanks I’m glad it was helpful! That’s why I decided to make this video because I had the same issues with their instructions.
I don’t know if you’re interested at all in soft close or open feature on those doors but here’s a video I made about that. ruclips.net/video/5UmO1IwYGk0/видео.html
Excellent instructions worked perfectly thanks
Awesome thank you!
Fantastic video man. Thanks.
Thank you for letting me know!
Great video and instructions! Did anyone else find the markings were a bit off? I’m putting a 32 wide door so should be 65 wide but the 2/8 marking is shy of that by about 1/2 inch
Thank you Aaron! I’ve never seen that maybe you could ask the manufacturer about it to be sure?
Really appreciate the video. You interchange level with plumb straight. The line across the floor is straight, not level. The studs need to be plumb, not level. Just a little confusing.
Thanks. Yeah sometimes I used to interchange the terms accidentally. 😁
Awesome video, I'm installing one of these tomorrow!
Thank you! Good luck with it.
@@SmartEasyDIYer question? The steel filler support studs in my kit do not have wood fillers in them. They are just the steel supports. Is the kit missing them s shown in your video has them?
Thank you and great video again:)
Dave
Supposedly, the new version has just steel for the supports so you’ll have to use self tapping screws to attach the drywall. I haven’t seen them yet, but I believe that is updated version of mine.
Thanks for the video, great job.
Thank you!
Well Done Sir. Thank you
Thanks I’m glad it was helpful.
Great video
Thank you! 👍👊
Absolutely great share! Thank you so much!
Thank you!
Very nice explanation. But my door sizes it’s a little different than yours. Can you help please? My door it’s 32x96. What would be my rough opening?
Very well done. Thanks
Thank you!
Very nice video, thanks bro
Thank you!
Wanted to watch this to refresh my memory. I've installed a few of these during remodels where there's no drywall. This time I'm going to put one in in an existing bathroom. If anyone has any feedback let me know.
I plan to:
-remove a section of drywall on one side
-remove left and top of current door frame and trim
-carefully remove stud in way
-install new stud the supports the header
-install header and the provided "studs"
-add additional 3/4"(?) vertical support
-re-install drywall, trim out opening
I think it sounds like you got it figured out.
Thanks this video is better than the original
Thanks I’m glad it was helpful.
Touche Lil dude! I must subscribe and like the video now :) . Thanks for the help!
Thank you! 😁👍
great video
Thank you!
Excellent video! We're installing ours now and using your video to watch step-by-step. We're installing two of these on either side of a basement bathroom (jack and Jill style)... planning to tile the bathroom floor - what's a good way to figure out how high to hang these? I notice you talked about how you didn't want a large gap - what type of flooring were you installing in your bathroom? Thanks!
Hi Jen thank you for letting me know! I’d have to watch the complete video which I can’t do at the moment because I’m low on data but the measurements i used in the video I also talk about how much of a gap that would leave you underneath. In my bathroom I used a quarter inch thick vinyl tile and then in the bedroom side I used a half inch thick floor and I have about a 3/16 inch gap underneath that which I think is about perfect.
So if my subfloor is going to be only 1/2 thick, and then I'm installing hardwoods that are 3/4 thick, should I hang the frame at 81.25"? Will this leave any room for my door to move? should I do 81.5" to give it a 1/4" gap?
Awesome guide. I'd say just ramset the center stud next time. They work great and are super shallow so it wont get the radiant heating lines
Thank you! Well I didn’t wanna take any chances with it. So far so good
super job on this vid
Thanks Thor! I appreciate the feedback. 👊
Your great step by step video totally helped me put in my first pocket door. Thank you so much!!!
Awesome nice job!!
Thank you so much for the easy-to-follow tutorial! I'm planning on installing a door in an already-finished opening with a tile floor. I will frame as needed, but what would you recommend for securing the two vertical sidepieces to the tiled floor?
Thanks again for helping us not-so-technically inclined (but hope to be)!
Thank you for letting me know I’m glad it was helpful! I would use a diamond bit that’s made for tile to drill through the tile and then there should be wood underneath you can screw to.
This guys sounds like the nicest dude.
Thanks Seth. 😊
WHen you measured the 80 and 3/4 from the floor - is that to the bottom of the hanger?
Thanks. Confusing location for the drain stubout by the door, though.
You’re welcome. It’s on the other side of the wall as it’s for a vanity inside the bathroom on the other side.
great Video
Thanks
Thank you!
You’re welcome.
this gives me hope
👍👊
Great tutorial! Question about door height though. You were saying 80 & 3/4 would give ou a 3/4" gap. Is this if you have an 80" tall door? I have a 79 1/2" inch door.
Thank you. Yes I believe my slab was 80 inches. Maybe what you could do is use a scrap of wood the correct length and test it out and see if the math works out to lower yours another 1/2”.
Subscribed to dad’s channel
Thank you! 😁
Thanks so much
You’re welcome!
Pre-drill to prevent splitting of the cheap pine.
Yes that’s good to do. 👍
I don’t know if anyone will be able to answer this, but I could really use some help. I’m replacing a few pocket doors in my house. Doors are original, came with house in the 70’s. The doors have rollers that hang on a track above. I didn’t have to open the wall thankfully. Just pulled the surrounding trim down, and it wiggled out.
I bought doors that while different style, they are the exact same dimensions. Is it possible that the pocket opening has shrunk, width wise? I don’t get it. I got the new door on the track, everything looks good, but it scrapes the sides badly when sliding it back into the pocket. I have to physically pull one side of the wall outward so it doesn’t rub so badly. The first door I did, same thing happened but not to this extent. I was able to use the plastic “guides” at the bottom to kind of position it in a more favorable place.
I don’t know what to do. Is there a way to widen the gap a little without redoing things? Any tricks of the trade? Is it possible the door is actually a little wider than the previous one? The original was super light, fake wood with no designs whatsoever. I put in a white 6 panel solid core door. All dimensions, I thought, are the same. Do those “6 panels” protrude outward at all? Pretty sure they’re inward but maybe I’m wrong. I read you can hang any door as a pocket door as long as the dimensions are equal. Any help is very much appreciated! TIA
Edit: maybe I can buy extra guides and position a pair at the top, not just the bottom? Might not look too aesthetically pleasing.
Yo thanks man!
You’re welcome! 👊
Great video!! Can you do one on doing, double pocket doors??
That’s an idea if I ever get the chance. I’ve never seen one yet.
@@SmartEasyDIYer yeah, been a contractor for 30 years off and on. Never been asked until recently!! Lol.
Haha wow.
Thank you sir
You’re welcome. 👊
Great video! Question, I don't have the 84 1/2 I have 82. Can I trim the split jambs?
Yes you could but you may have to trim your actual door down too then if it’s too long.
Thanks! I thought I could.
Yeah should be no problem
If I'm installing a 28x80" door, do I need to buy the 2x4 Stud Wall (28 inch x 80 inch) kit? Or does it need to be the 28x84" kit?
I would say the 80” tall one. You could ask the seller to be sure how the measurements work with the frame compared to the door.
I can't draw a line on floor can i run a 2x4 across the openning to get a start edge to line up pocket studs
Yeah I think that should work if you have a straight 2x4.
Hey I cut for 2/6 on the opening. Framed it 61” for 30” door plus 1”. The opening for the door is 31”…is that right?
I believe so. It’s been a while since I did it but that sounds right. You could double check what it says in your instructions to compare.
Does the inch that they want you to add on for opening also account for the finish jamb?
I believe so yes. You can shim your jamb out closer if need be when you go to trim it out.
If you want to message me on my instagram I can show you how mine turned out.
Really excellent video but why no 4x4 header?
Thanks. You really don’t need it if it’s not a load bearing wall.
Is there a piece at the bottom to keep the door from swaying too much?
None in the kit that i remember. I had to purchase aftermarket ones separately.
i bought 2 for a 32" pocket door and a 21" pocket door, but neither have marks for cutting to that length. so do i just measure from left end in your video and cut one a 32" length and the other a 21" length?
You may want to check your paperwork that came with it to be sure but I think you would double the lengths plus 1 inch. So your 32 would be 32+32+1 =65 for that example. That’s how it was on mine.
got it. thanks
Awesome best of luck going forward!
terrific idea. Based on your experience would Johnson kits be good for a tile wall?
Thanks. I’ve never seen used on a tile wall but I think it could be since you’re using the backing material behind it to stiffen it up.
I really need a pocket door in the space so will try it but hopefully the wall isn’t so flimsy and the tile falls. :/
Wish me luck.
Best of luck! I hope it turns out great.
Good videos problem with the Johnson 2x4 is the metal studs with the wood inside are junk. The wall is very weak. You either have to plywood or use 5/8” drywall or plywood combined with 1/2” drywall. A 2x6 setup would be much better. Also 10 out of 10 times the cheap Johnson studs are bowed. You can easily straighten them out but again still junk
Hey thanks. So I haven’t had any problems myself and I just used 1/2 inch drywall. I do know they changed the design after I installed mine to one that all metal studs with no wood sandwiched. Maybe that’s why.
Did you end up having to go higher than 80 3/4"?
I set mine at the same height but when trying to screw in the vertical pieces, the holes in the metal plates do not come down far enough for me to screw into the horizontal wood.
Yeah mine ended up working out great. Not sure why yours is like that. Can you maybe drill a few of your own holes?
Strange, maybe they shortened the length of the holes. I ended up putting some blocks cut from 2x4 in the space between the header and the door assembly. Worked out well. Thanks for the video & response and have a safe 4th!
Yeah that is strange good for you for improvising though I am glad it worked out OK. You’re welcome have a happy fourth too!
How do you trim out the jamb on the side the door closes in? Just rip skinny pieces to look like a jamb?
Yeah just skinny pieces that just leave a little room beside the door so it doesn’t rub.
Nice! thank you!
You’re welcome. Good luck with your project!
Would you use the same glue if attaching to tile?
I think it would work ok but I’m not sure actually. If you look at adhesive I’d read the label to see if it specifies tile. Also if you can it’d be good to anchor it with a tapcon or something unless you have a situation like mine.
My kit didn’t come with floor pieces. What can I buy to replace them?
I would probably contact the manufacture to send you some that would be the best fit.
How big is the actual opening on the 28 inch door when open? I want to install a 28 inch for a laundry room. The washer/dryer tower is 27 inches wide. I want to make sure I will be able to get it in the door after install... Thank you.
I’ll measure it tonight and let you know
So mine is 27-3/8” in the opening. I did use 3/4” to case it out with. If you did something thinner that would help a tad but might not be enough for you.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thank you! It looks like I have enough space for a 30 inch so I am just going with the 30 inch to be safe.
Ok great!
Do you know the details/link of the screws you used? The hole openings are too small for my screws on hand so I need to go pick some up. Thanks.
I’m sorry I don’t remember the size of those.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thanks. I found some pocket screws that work.
Awesome good for you!
Your son is very informative, compared to instructions. Thanks. I am old school.
Thanks! Do you mean my video?
Smart Easy DIY yes. I had a customer that wants me to install a double pocket door. Naturally there was a heat run in of opening. But besides that the instructions were vague, especially when you are used to install pocket frames already constructed. Your video was helping concerning tying in the vertical frame. I tend to over think knowing there would be a easy solution. Seeing it helped much. I think about doing videos, some of these old houses need some attention!
Yes you should! They more good info
The better. Helps Everyone out. I appreciate the info and glad it helped! Thanks again. 👊
I just bought the kit to redo a 32” door. But,does the new door have to be greater than 32”? Or will a standard interior 32” door work?
I think a standard one should work by the time you trim it out.
@@SmartEasyDIYer yes.. after I ran it through my head several times,I realized that the door cannot extend into the wall because should the door ever need to be changed, it would be impossible to get the door out without tearing down the outermost set of studs. The trim is the key. Thanks for the vid!
You’re welcome. Glad you got it figured out.
Can a 34" door be used? I see cuts for all sizes but the 34"
It’s seems like it, you could just cut halfway between 32 and 36.
@@SmartEasyDIYer that's what I did, modified it for a 34".
Perhaps I am just missing it but don't you have to cut the side peices?
I THINK these are the pocket doors my builder used. The one between our primary bedroom/ bath has dropped slightly and is FRUSTRATING to open and close now. When I close the door and look up into the space, I see two little things that might be what I can use to tighten it back up??? HELP! It ruins my morning every day.
Yes there’s a small special wrench to tighten or loosen a nut that comes with those to adjust the rollers. That should be what you need to do I think.
Says 84 1/2 min height, I have some 77" doors I want to use, is there any way to make that happen?
That’s a unusual height. I think you could install the header and track at that lower height but you’d have to cut the upright pieces shorter.
@@SmartEasyDIYer thanks the doors were free but I ended up buying a few brand new ones for 100$ each saved like 800$ so I'm happy. Thanks for the reply
OK great! Saving money is always good. You’re welcome.
Did anything get screwed into the rough framing header?
If I’m understanding correctly no since the track hangs on the end screws. It’s just for stiffening it up and trimming it out mostly I think.
@@SmartEasyDIYer thanks for the quick response. My doors are 30” so I’m going to rough frame using a 2x4 header since it’s a non-load bearing wall & the door doesn’t attach to it.
Sounds good. Good luck with it!
Any chance you finished the trim yet ?
Yes! Here’s the video. ruclips.net/video/6nK-DmpPU_A/видео.html
can make a double pocket door with this?
I’ve never thought about it but I don’t see why not since they both have positive stops where they close etc
Thanks, yes there is a hardware to join them
When did you install the wood inside the metal stand up supports????
They were already built that way in the kit.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thanks
I have a different style support beam
No wood so I think I will install some to screw the drywall to.
OK maybe you can attach the drywall with some self-tapping steel screws too.
@@SmartEasyDIYer
Thanks.
I was thinking that also.
Just thinking of some options.
You’re welcome. It’s good to think about options. 😊