Pocket Door Installation - Shimming and Installing Jambs
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- Опубликовано: 9 янв 2020
- In this video we cover how to shim the pocket door opening to receive the pocket door jambs. I cover how to get good margins between the door slab and split jamb pieces. I show you the most accurate and efficient methods to get this task done as quickly as possible. No one likes installing pocket doors but it is a big part of a carpenters work flow. Hopefully this video helps increase your quality and efficiency when installing pocket doors.
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I'll bet there are a lot of non secret sharing carpernters out there hating on these vids. You have a great talent for teaching and I wish these were available 30 yrs ago. It's also neat to see some things that I do being done by others. Thanks for sharing!!
Been doing this for 30 yrs and never gets old love all the vids of woodoworkers. There is always something to be learned. Everyone does things different and thats the best part. You can expand on your knowledge and pick and choose what works for you regardless of how you were taught.
Well said!
Before installing the top jamb pieces, I find it esthetically pleasing to paint the void and hardware with a spray can of flat black paint. That way, you cover the raw wood and eliminate reflections of the metal rail. Nice vid!
Thank you!!!It was so helpful. Because of you we did pocket door in our bathroom. The best video on RUclips.
Guy looks like he's 20 but is a BADASS. Super knowledgeable and very good at teaching his tricks. BADASS.
Good video like always. I used to set up pocket door in a way that it can be access to for later repairs, but i started to screw the jam together then install it as one piece. Like u said, it doesn't look rite and if u install it rite, most likely it won't need to be taking out.
I been doing carpentry for almost 20 and i been watching your videos for almost a year . U are one of the most skilled carpenter that i see on RUclips and i seen a lot. Your craftmanship, your work setup and your attention to details are on point. We have a lots in common . I have the same setup and mentality as you. I learned i few tips from you
This guys attention to detail is second to nobody💯💯💯💯
Outstanding series of videos on pocket doors. He has a real talent for demonstrating while doing top quality work.
We notch the flat jamb at the top and extend it up to the track. Just a little ocd / aesthetic touch to help cover up the raw framing. Something only us trim guys would notice, and homeowners probably wouldn't. Great vids, God Bless!
I did the same thing
Great video as all the ones I looked at before.
Maybe correct the title a tad so it follows as 3/3 in the How to Install Pocket Doors series. Something like: How to Install Pocket Doors Part 3 of 3 - Shimming and Installing Jambs
Keep up the good work.
Cheers.
Your teaching and explanations are always so thorough and detailed! Thanks for being a great carpenter and teaching us all how to be better!
🙏🏻
I route a 4” long 45 deg chamfer about 3/8 deep on the less obtrusive side I f the split jamb. That way you can get the wrench in to adjust without pulling the jamb or scratching paint. I use to do bottom guides as you do and about 5 years ago I started installing them the same way but behind the split jamb so you don’t have to look at them. So clean. Awesome video.
You are the man and put more perfection into things then i do. But the door guides go behind the jamb. I chisel out the framing. Some cut the jamb. Cant adjust it later. We even do metal frame pocket doors and the metal jamb is cut to put the guides behind. Love your videos. I also like to see a tool belt with glue on it. I get laughed at for the coat of glue on my belt and 18 guage gun.
Great video! Thank you so much very thorough!
You do an outstanding job explaining things in your videos, thank you! I find myself going to your videos when I have projects like this, and always makes my project much easier. Again, thank you for the great instruction!
Great video. When painters get paint on door glides, hinges and knobs that's when you introduce them to the soup line.
I'm a GC and nothing burns me more than lazy subs. You sir do a great job.
Another great video. For consistency, this video needs to be renamed or listed as How to Install Pocket Doors Part 3 of 3: I had trouble finding this clip.
I appreciate that all of your videos are very detailed and follow a very methodical systematic sequence.
Outstanding job-thanks for sharing. ✝️
Thanks for your vid, doing 5 pocket doors next week and haven't done them in a few years. Great refresher
Thanks for sharing your methods. I've been involved with finish carpentry for 5+ years. In March 2020, I decided to take the "leap" into going into business for myself. So far, it has worked out well for me.
Your videos have taught me how to be more productive with my crew. At times, I have to step back and take note of my stubborn, less productive ways.
I never used gauge blocks for the reveal on the split jamb side - I always trusted my eye. Even though I'm confident in using my eye, I'm using gauge blocks from now on.
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Your treads & risers how-to video helped me tremendously. I was anxious/overthinking the entire process. Buying a track saw and the Collins Stair Gauge was KEY! (My past employer only trusted one of the crew members to install stair parts; I had zero experience but had a general idea)
Your willingness to teach is a great personality trait.
Thank you, sir.
Glad it’s helping you my friend. And best of luck with the business. Sounds like you’re a person who can find the information needed and execute. 👍👊
Brilliant little tip on angling the nailer to avoid blowing through a shim. I never thought of that. I always just try to barely engage the gun....it works but is less consistent.
same
Thanks for the in-depth walk-through, and now feel fairly confident to tackle this project
The company I work for has me put a rabbet in the tops of the vertical jamb legs. The main benefit is that the top split jamb rests in the rabbet, which give you a bit more wiggle room. I still nail the casing as normal. --I've had to adjust a door a month after install, though: simply slide a flatbar between the head casing and top jamb, create an opening for a multi-tool, cut the nails, and the top split jamb can be moved out of the way to adjust the door.
Awesome video, as always! Loved the shim/block sizing trick!!
Great video! I am going to have my son watch these depending on what we are doing. He’s been working with us for a year and is doing really well so far.
I like the idea of shimming the flat jamb side to the plumbed door. I am going to try this next time. I usually plumb my door and then level and square install the flat jamb with shims at one time, can be a bit tedious. I agree with the comment below about installing the door guides behind the split jamb.
Loving your straight forward no bullshit descriptions and that you don't mind commenting on better methods after the fact. It's always good to critique yourself after the job if you can. Every job is a learning opportunity. I'm installing my first pocket door for my mom next week, very timely video, thanks.
I just hung about 35 thousand dollars worth of alder doors in a custom home it had about 15 pocket doors many where double doors you can’t be in a hurry just stay steady, our set up is almost exactly the same but i started cutting my shims/wedges cross grain so I could just break them off flush I’ve really enjoyed this series you’ve done a great job explaining the process as usual keep the video’s coming
Pull a screw out of the track. Make sure they're not all 3/4 inch screws. Save you a headache in the long run.
It looks like you are using Johnson Pocket door hardware. You should check out their Soft Close mechanisms that work as soft close against the strike jamb and or soft open into the pocket. For another +/- $100 per door, your install becomes very high end for the homeowner. No more pinched fingers on the strike side and the door wont "bounce back" out of the pocket.
I like to use a crown stapler to nail shims to the jam.
Lewis this rene Martinez I like the way you explain the installation of pocket door thanks I’m in louciana
Ever thought of putting the guides behind the stop? That's the way we do it, then score out the backside of the stop to fit over the top with no bulging out - I think it looks a lot better! Otherwise, great video!
That's how I do it too. Much nicer
Hey I was gonna comment that but you'll ready did👍👍👍
It takes a little. Finessing but it always makes the finished product look better to have the lower door guides behind the split jam. Especially on stained wood rather than paint grade. As Always Great Video’s. Greg
I've done it sometime but only when the flooring is installed
The pocket doors we usually install in Australia already have the strike jamb and split jambs pre installed. You install during framing stage and fine tune the jambs during finish stage. They’re very efficient and look quite smart. Interesting to see the different style.
Fantastic tips!
Just the one I've been waiting for, thanks a ton man!
Really enjoy your videos. You're a talented young man!
On thing that I like to do is install the guide before the split jambs to keep them out of plain view. But great video
Great video. Major help.
Instead of the glides I always use a "t" shaped guide pice of metal, you have to route a groove in the center of your door at the bottom, that works way better and you don't have to worry about the ugly glides being seen or loosing them by the painters etc etc, great work man.
Dude! You're a MASTER! Learning lots! Thankyou.
I always build the entire jamb on a table, the install it as one unit, shim as needed. At least 1,000 done so far, no problems.
Until you need to pull the door out. Do you ever check the screws the framers put the track in with? A lot of times its 3/4 inch screw. That wont hold a solid core door very long. Just a tip. Happening about 50% of the time for me. Have to cut a hole in the sheetrock to do it right but only about 5% of people do that.
You can always use drywall screws as shims, works great set the screw to the height you want, screw in a little or back it out a little great video keep up the good work.
Watching your videos has made me such a much better finish carpenter.. Thanks a mil! You are awesome!
Great to hear!
Very helpful. I'm installing a Johnson Hardware frame and find the shimming interesting as their measurements give you rough opening that doesn't seem to account for much if any shimming. 1" larger-than-the-door rough opening than the door. Fortunately I am fully plumb and flat and have dialed in the door after putting just one side of drywall on but this is still good info for any possible future projects.
One thing on your nailer, it is recommended to always hold it perpendicular as the way the nails are designed they are more likely to break left to right vs up and down. So holding it parallel gives a greater chance of the nail shooting out towards the door.
I shim the strike side jamb by shining a light from one side and once I can't see the light through the gap I know it's dialed in, I also mortise the back of the split jambs with my multi-tool for the plastic guides.
This is excellent.
keep working hard and making people happy
Thanks for big help!!!🤗
Nicely taught, brother. Thank you.
Great job!
Great video series. Pocket doors suck to deal with, no way to sugar coat it.
From a veteran carpenter, great stuff. Pocket doors were always such a pain for me. You're lucky that your builder doesn't use the cheap-ass framing kit that comes with them.
Thank you for doing this one I have not done a pocket door from scratch yet
Similar install, but I extend strike and split jambs up into the rail pocket then glue up 1x returns on my header split jambs (looks like an el angle). It looks nicely finished when you look up, sanding all parts before install.
Thank you!
Great as usual pal
How can anyone really give this video a thumbs down???? For real????
You make great videos 👍
Great ideas. Thanks
I install my head split jamb with 3 trim screws. U can easily find with a magnet after paint to remove if ever necessary.
Do you ever use trim screws with the reverse thread? They work great to move the flat jamb and the split jamb in and out. It’s really fast and then I shim and shoot after that just to secure the jamb.
Great! Thank you!
I am green, thank you brother.
thanks very helpful
Excellent !!
Great video 👍
Good video thank you
Good job buddy!
Wonderful video with key details. I am curious how you would install the split jams if the pocket door studs are metal like with Johnson Hardware Pocket doors.
For installing the plastic adjustments at the bottom of the door, I find it looks tacky if they are screwed on the face of the split jamb, so I put a saw cut a few inches down the inside of the split jamb, slide the plastic pieces into place, put my screw through the wood face and voila, finished without those unsightly plastic toe catchers on the bottom of the split jamb. Make the inner groove a few inches long so the plastic fitting can slide up or down for finer adjustment. Also the outer edge of the plastic piece will be in line with the outside edge of the split jamb giving it a nice clean and finished look.
Sweet!
Im a handyman in South Bay, California do a lot of finish work wish I could be your partner I learn a lot from you
I like to use screws with a nickel dress washer on the inside head jam piece so it can be removed in the future for adjustment
So smart
Hey Spencer, great tutorial on pocket doors!
I’m starting a long term remodel soon and need a job cart to wheel around for doors, windows, crown and a library build out. Tell me about your Sys-cart, Sys-roll setup please.
I did a video on it a while back. Check that video out.
Still waiting on the jambmaster review :)
Put the guides on the back side of your split jamb. Alot cleaner looking finish.
I like using trim head screws with the reverse thread to easily tweak the jambs in or out
With no support dont you worry about the paint cracking?
@@smokingcheeba420 Not at all
It's just a small amount and those screws hold very well
Some times I use screws instead of shims so
I can just screw in or out to get a plumb and level surface to lay the jambs against.
Would have been nice if you would have included links to the first 2 videos in the series...
I would like to see this from the frame start. Do you have a video with that?
You want to allow them to take the door out in case the door ever gets damaged. I was a property manager a door can get damaged for a number of reasons.
Thanks. I have been waiting for this one. I have a pocket door to install in renovation but never installed one before. Someone mentioned that there is supposed to be a bumper on the back of the door. My Johnson kit didn't come with a bumper. Do the ones you install have a bumper? Would not a large rubber bumper like a wall mounted door stop make the door too proud of the split jambs. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.
Also I am doing a modern renovation. wondering if you have done any or asked to quote any?
My baseboard is flush with the drywall. An aluminum reglet is in between.
My door jambs are custom 1- 13/16 thick that have a reglet between it and the drywall.
Went back and watched the 2nd video. It is all starting to make sense now. Thanks. A lot less anxiety about the job now. I have 2x4 wall. I did install 3/4 plywood between the split studs with optional clips sold by Johnson. Next time it will be 2x6 wall. Thanks Again.
First off, GREAT JOB!! You always have awesome content. Around here they usually use the kits with the steel jambs. I always love it when I get a pocket door with the studs on the flat. What is your trick to get the projection of the door out of the wall so you are able to shim it? I usually use a truss headed cabinet screw driven in the back of the door and adjusted so the door has enough projection.
I covered that in video 2 which was uploaded a couple months ago. 👍
When you nail your jambs on do you put the nails through the jamb board and the shim or just above the shim? Nice video!
Through the jamb and shim.
Would really like a much less expensive jig option (cnc'd plywood, 3d-printed plastic) for DIY. $50 and you'd get lots of takers.
I assume that the jamb master can only handle a 4-9/16" jamb, and all your pocket door openings are 2x6's but have you seen or thought of using your jamb master to for the shimming?
I used to put those plastic clips behind the split jamb because they're ugly. But nobody else bothered to do it, so I stopped.
That's the way I do it
Dont do what everyone else does. If anyone puts them on the outside of the jamb get off my job.
I hate seeing those guides too. Now I route a rabbet in the bottom of the door, making sure to stop a half inch from the front edge so as not to see the rabbet, and insert an aluminum channel into the rabbet. The channel protrudes out the back edge of the door into the pocket about an inch or two and I screw a bushing to the floor that fits into the channel. It’s a bit extra work but worth it to me to not see those guides.
A while back, I saw you using a metal frame jig for hanging doors perfectly and I am looking for that video but can't find it. Can anybody offer any suggestions?
Search for "Jamb Master"
Dont need shims if you install studs plumb. Then you can shim your strike side. Much more solid jamb if its tight to stub with no shims. How does your brad nailer work? Mine has always fired an extra hole from the firing pin next to the brad. Finish gun works perfect tho
Ive tried doing it that way and it never seems to come out as crisply as id like it to. Too much variation im the studs for me. I could see it working well with lsl studs though.
@@InsiderCarpentry fair enuff. I use the steel studs. Not crazy about them. But that is what is readily available. Great videos. How well does you cordless dewalt brad nailer work?
I don't think you could do it much better than that.
Who does the exterior trim?like siding snd window trim. Is that for the framer? Just curious. like youre system of building in the usa.in Holland its compleet different.a Carpenter here does all the work.but we dont have woorden frames its all brick.
There is a specific subcontractor that does siding only.
Are the doors finish painted it just primed at this point? Do you know if the painter can paint the whole door if it is already installed?
Primed. The painter paints the doors in place. They just close them and spray them.
And here I always thought it was just nailing wood around the door frame.
The exposed glides look really tacky. Is there a reason you don't install them behind the split jambs? And just mortise out for the glide tab.
Have you ever done removable split jambs?
2-3/8 ?
:WOW SUPER LOVELY ❤🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙🌹💙
How much do you charge $
This guy is so patient with the other trades that care nothing about the next tradesman but about making money. Butcher!
You shouldn’t be shimming the split jam header!! Install the pocket door header with a laser, make bench marks on the jacks studs then measure up on each end, that creates dead level header. When you screw the tabs to the jacks check the laser to the header or rails to get it dead. Also use the laser for the door legs side so u don’t have to shim out your door split jams studs. Also I make up the complete jam using flat,split and top header and screw it all together. Then I slide it in, nail the top first,split jam side then close the door and shim my door to the jam much easier and tighter!! Try this it quicker bc you make up all your jams then hang and shim!!
First 👌
Phàrt