Thank you Matt! First time doing a pocket door and I didn't have one to see how to cover the inside of the door opening. Your video was perfect for me.
Nice tutorial, just what I needed to understand how to trim the pocket doors. It's surprising how scarce this information is, so thank you for showing how to do it. And now that I see exactly how inexact the shims are used, i think I'll finally try to install that ca. 1880s front door that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years! 😊
This was a great video, I’ve trimmed regular doors but was unclear of the components and detail required to make the pocket door look and function right
I wish I could have shown this to my contractor 14 years ago when he ignored me and two Victorian in house examples and installed 6 pocket doors in a way that requires breaking lots of wall to get the door out.
Same thing I was thinking. My pocket doors are steel frame with wood inserts but no slots in metal to hit with nails especially small brad or finishing nails. They'll just bend 😢
First of all, thank you for the education. I disagree at 1:10, you added a block/brake on the left edge of the door. I would suggest putting a brake piece at the far end if the cavity. How can a door be removed with the least amount of trim being disturbed? Your block would require side trim being removed also.
Ford, this is where I get to reveal the jackass moron I can be, because I am simply guessing, and everyone's situation will be different. In my case, one wall of the pocket door is a closet, the other side is a bedroom wall. If all the walls are in place, but you have access to the outside wall, or an inside wall, whichever is least visible to anyone, then I would do it the kluge way, drill a 1/2' spade bit into the back end area of the cavity, say 1.5 inches from the end, and take a stock half-inch wood dowel and place it in the wall. You can get fancy by taking a 1.5 inch sheet rock screw, drill it into the leading edge, then snip off the head, using the stub to be the screw in the far side. Hand turn it in place. as you know, half inch dowel may not be strong enough, then go to a 1 inch spade bit and dowel, it doesn't have to be fancy. In my case, I will be entering the closet area, but I could just as easy enter at the bottom of the bedroom wall to mud it up, sand it, clean it, paint over the the very small blemish which will not be looked at anyways. I dread the thought of pulling down tiles, or opening up the wall bigger than a 1 inch dowel... I would never forgive myself.@@toughpandaconstruction
@@EdSZiomek yeah, that seems like way more work than putting a bumper stock. I'm ok with doing more work if the result is high quality, but that's just overkill for no return on your investment of time. Chances your taking the door off, slim to none and if you do, just knock off the bumper stock with a long flat head screwdriver and then re-install if your putting the door back.. #worksmart (not hard)
Our GC hired a sub-contractor who installed a pocket door kit but after reviewing this video, I can tell he knew nothing about what he was doing. The guy even threw away the door guides and there are no jambs installed to make the door look nice. What an ahole.
"Level" is horizontal ... "Plumb is vertical ... good job on the install ... I wish the pocket door would go the way of the dinosaur ... I really hate them
Dudes hating on the fact there trimming a pocket framed wrong. If they did the framing they need to use eye glasses & digital level. If they had to trim someone else’s work that’s what ya gotta do. I recently had to rip a pocket out and reframe or the bottom of door would have had to be cut 2” . nope just do it right
Nice job sir! Can tell you take pride in your workmanship. Too many don’t these days.
Hats off!
Great teaching!!
I just installed my first pocket door. I gotta say I'm very proud of my work. Thanks for being clear on the trim. Thank you!!
Our pleasure!
Thank you Matt! First time doing a pocket door and I didn't have one to see how to cover the inside of the door opening. Your video was perfect for me.
Nice tutorial, just what I needed to understand how to trim the pocket doors. It's surprising how scarce this information is, so thank you for showing how to do it. And now that I see exactly how inexact the shims are used, i think I'll finally try to install that ca. 1880s front door that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years! 😊
What a brilliant video. Really, really enjoyed the host. Superb instructions
Really appreciate your making this video! Thank you for your detail and expertise!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for this video.
This was a great video, I’ve trimmed regular doors but was unclear of the components and detail required to make the pocket door look and function right
Great video, needed some help with my pocket door install and this helped a lot. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Amazing guide !!! Thank you so much for sharing your video!
Great step by step. Thanks 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks. Any videos on how to build the pocket for the door?
Nice Job!!
Excellent work, great craftsmanship.
Thank you very much Jim!
Looks good.
This is SO helpful! What is the approximate cost in labor and materials to achieve the professional results you have shared with us?
thanks very nice! but when door opens flat to trim, how do you close it?
I wish I could have shown this to my contractor 14 years ago when he ignored me and two Victorian in house examples and installed 6 pocket doors in a way that requires breaking lots of wall to get the door out.
Will the trim nailer go right into the steel studs?
Same thing I was thinking. My pocket doors are steel frame with wood inserts but no slots in metal to hit with nails especially small brad or finishing nails. They'll just bend 😢
First of all, thank you for the education. I disagree at 1:10, you added a block/brake on the left edge of the door. I would suggest putting a brake piece at the far end if the cavity. How can a door be removed with the least amount of trim being disturbed? Your block would require side trim being removed also.
If the wall is already drywalled and mostly likely painted - how would you put the brake at the back of the cavity?
Ford, this is where I get to reveal the jackass moron I can be, because I am simply guessing, and everyone's situation will be different. In my case, one wall of the pocket door is a closet, the other side is a bedroom wall. If all the walls are in place, but you have access to the outside wall, or an inside wall, whichever is least visible to anyone, then I would do it the kluge way, drill a 1/2' spade bit into the back end area of the cavity, say 1.5 inches from the end, and take a stock half-inch wood dowel and place it in the wall. You can get fancy by taking a 1.5 inch sheet rock screw, drill it into the leading edge, then snip off the head, using the stub to be the screw in the far side. Hand turn it in place. as you know, half inch dowel may not be strong enough, then go to a 1 inch spade bit and dowel, it doesn't have to be fancy. In my case, I will be entering the closet area, but I could just as easy enter at the bottom of the bedroom wall to mud it up, sand it, clean it, paint over the the very small blemish which will not be looked at anyways. I dread the thought of pulling down tiles, or opening up the wall bigger than a 1 inch dowel... I would never forgive myself.@@toughpandaconstruction
@@EdSZiomek yeah, that seems like way more work than putting a bumper stock. I'm ok with doing more work if the result is high quality, but that's just overkill for no return on your investment of time. Chances your taking the door off, slim to none and if you do, just knock off the bumper stock with a long flat head screwdriver and then re-install if your putting the door back..
#worksmart (not hard)
For every task there is always an easy and a complicated way. He just showed us the extended version of the complicated way…
but my question is how to take it out and clean it
Use trim screws instead of nailing the header trim so you can remove the door to clean/adjust. Is that what you're asking about?
Our GC hired a sub-contractor who installed a pocket door kit but after reviewing this video, I can tell he knew nothing about what he was doing. The guy even threw away the door guides and there are no jambs installed to make the door look nice. What an ahole.
Mr. "Carpenter"...you "plumb" the door, not "level." Big difference.
PLUMB the door. Not level it.
He should have levelled the track when he installed it so the door would be plumb both in and out of the pocket not a 1/8 out of plumb
"Level" is horizontal ... "Plumb is vertical ... good job on the install ... I wish the pocket door would go the way of the dinosaur ... I really hate them
We’ll you know what we mean : ) … and so sorry to hear that! We love pocket doors for the right space.
Pockets are perfect for saving space installation is all about the framing
Another way , how NOT to trim out a pocket dor , do your self a favor , take this video out of RUclips
Thanks for the feedback! Could you elaborate?
Wtf are u on about mate
@@blrgy1569 once you use those tree letters WTF , I can say without any problem , that is one way how NOT to trim out a pocket door , periud
@@nunoteodoro4875 make a video.
Looked good to me. Also, you shud cumpleet turd grade spelling
Dudes hating on the fact there trimming a pocket framed wrong. If they did the framing they need to use eye glasses & digital level.
If they had to trim someone else’s work that’s what ya gotta do.
I recently had to rip a pocket out and reframe or the bottom of door would have had to be cut 2” . nope just do it right