I really appreciate how you don't edit out those moments when your camera guy offers advice, and when you make subtle mistakes. Very helpful way to produce a video like this. Thank you.
Or you could use your table saw to run a small channel in the back of the trim so it relieves the spot where the wall bumps out. That way you get full reveal on the trim sides
Everytime I need drywall help, your videos appear, and your suggestions are absolutely gold. I also just want to say it's great that you leave your mistakes in the videos and speak to them. Helps me avoid the same!
It never hurts to watch how others tackle common problems. Shared knowledge makes us better at what we do. Saves us time involved in the trial and error method. Hats off Brother.
I am so glad you let the assistant’s comment in the video. It shows it is good to be humble and accept good ideas from where they may come, and to give credit where credit is due.
I considered using this method to solve my problem for about a minute. I didn’t like the thought of removing my drywall permanently and I didn’t like the thought of the recessed trim into the wall. Not a good look. I think the better choice is to use a jamb extension (1/4” lattice in my case) to bring the casing flush with the wall giving a more uniform look and retaining the thickness of the casing. If I had chosen the fix mentioned in the video, it would have compounded my problem with the future wainscoting that was to be installed. This video is not a good remedy for the problem but I suppose it may have a use in some cases. Consider using a jamb extension.
In the case of the margin being uniformly out around the frame absolutely. Personally I’d rather leave the gap and caulk and paint as it’s just one corner. Regardless, either is better than cutting the Sheetrock back unless there’s no other option.
The reason for this is because in my case a 2x6 isn't done right. I've seen them range 1/8" different for thickness, width and length. Even precut studs.
thanks so much for this video. i have this same problem with the drywall sitting out too far, and my molding has just been sitting in the corner. i tried taking it down with a rasp, but it didn't help so i am so grateful you posted this. i am a 71 year old woman, and not a pro redoing a whole 100 year old house by myself, and i need all the help i can get. thanks, and be blessed
Get wider trim boards and make your life easier. If you don't have the proper tools to rip the boards and plane them to width than maybe you shouldn't be doing it.
Eggzackly. That's what power planners are for. Seems that the chippie who put the door lining in canted it off plumb so on the other side of the partition the lining will protrude. Take the fixing out and reinstate it plum.
@@Saxondog Do you actually know how to hang a door? If the door was hung properly all 4 corners are in the same plane so that it closes properly. If the 4 corners of the wall aren't all in the same plane it's impossible to have the door match up to the wall and still close properly. Or maybe the problem in this case is that the door was installed plumb when the wall isn't plumb.
Looks like the walls made of metal stud and the liner put the door header in wrong with the wrong screws causing the plaster board to be proud at the door frame corners ,I All ways mitre the stud and fix from the inside the you don't get that problem
@@stevepseudonym445 Yes mate I can hang a door. It's very unlikely that the wall or stud is gonna be that far out of plumb. Do you know how to fix a door lining. ?
@@Frankie431 yeah frankie, i think that your way is more proper way of doing it. Also i do the filling on the inside of the room, cause if i have more than one door on the outside of the room and u fill one, but others dont need the filled, then it wont look rite
@Woodcock Johnson true on the jam prob installed crooked but sometimes it's the framing and the drywaller has no time to fix f up framing. Then what do you do?
I watched your vid to solve this problem last week to install a solid core door. Instead of glaziers bar, I used an oscillating saw. I then put a thin coat of hot mud and tape to strengthen the where I cut the wall. Thank you for the great video! Thanks Ben!
My first time ever doing construction, my first boss taught me to never hammer tools with your hands. He said you will regret it when your old like him.
I just want to echo and reinforce this message, I learned the same lesson but in the context of the kitchen, crushing garlic like a showoff. Our carpal bones aren't resilient to repetitive impact.
I have a 50 year old home with a cement/plaster board combo for the walls. No wall is the same especially around doors. I was going to do the same thing on one occasion, but instead added wood strips to the door jamb. I then applied spackling prior to painting and you would never know there was strips of wood.
I’m a “strip” kinda guy too. Way less work and mess. Especially if the casing/ jamb is the same finish and the wall is a contrasting finish. The thinner casing reveal from the rest of the doors in the room/ hall will pop out.
I ran into this problem when I installed wainscoting on an entire wall. I had a 1/4" gap on the door and window jambs. I just cut 1/4" strips and extended the jambs. I had to caulk a few spots and sand but overall it turned out nice after paint. No way I'm ripping drywall 😂 I guess if it works
When wall is out of plumb it gets funky. U could take a block of wood and smack jamb over then take hinge pin out and bend it so door doesn’t swing closed of opened. Best to do what u got to do.
I go straight to the hammer. No scribing or cutting needed. The framers don't get the door and window headers flush with the studs because they probably build the wall with the interior face down on the floor, make sure the outside (that they have to sheet) isn't protruding out, stand it up and call it good.
I personally would have put a 1/4 inch filler between the casing and the door jam. Those thin strips are available at any home improvement store. Then, you would not have to hack away at the wall.
That works great if you have a uniform gap that's the right size. And if you don't mind the 2 extra seams. And if you either bring an assortment just in case or don't mind going to get them once you know what you need.
Great tip! I just ran into this problem today while renovating my house and remembered I saw ur video awhile back while binge watch your channel, watched it again to refresh my memory and BAM got beautiful trim thanks to you! 👍🏻 love your channel man!
@chris widney only thing I did different was I didnt smash the sheetrock I left it as is and took a 2 1/2 in chisel and just shaved it flush with the casing, I was only about a 1/4 inch off to start so mine came out great, after caulk u can't tell a thing, I will say if it's really off I'd just Rip everything out and redo it right
I have watched a lot of your videos, and usually I think your work is really solid. I am anal about drywall as an ex-handyman and a homeowner that does his own work on a crappy house. I would be quite upset if I found this behind the trim. Just back cut the trim or extend the frame... Way less work for the next guy...
I agree....this was butchery of the highest order. Imagine someone in the future decided to change doors and chose a smaller style casing 🙈🙈. And if the wood warps or shrinks by even a little it will look like a botch job.
I like how he added that little tidbit about caulking at the end. The moment he mentioned cutting the drywall out i started internally screaming "Just caulk the f###er and move on". The explanation made a lot of sense. I'll have to remember this trick.
To be clear, I am not speaking negatively of your fix. I am of the mindset to do whatever it takes to get the end result. However, it blows my mind how many homeowners would flip out about fixes like this. I have literally ran into situations where no one will know what was done to fix a problem and the homeowner says "I will always know that it's like that and I won't be happy". I am talking about something as simple as a small hole in the drywall behind a cabinet. On your fix you have the reveal change in the trim that you pointed out. I have worked for homeowners that would absolutely freak out. Years ago I worked for a man who taught me this, "If I do the VERY BEST that I can do, it might BARELY be good enough". Now you have to understand that mindset to appreciate it. I tell myself that line all the time and it keeps me from being lazy on the job. Again, my comment is not to negatively reflect on your method. That looks like something I would do in the cases that I could "get away with it". It just blows my mind some times when homeowners have unreasonable expectations mixed with "the customer is always right". My contracts basically say "the customer is not always right". When you hire my company you are hiring professionals to do the job therefore, we're not going to bow to your expertise on that matter Mr. or Mrs. Homeowner. Does that make sense?
this guys lame game is next level, i love it. *edit, also thank you for not editing out the camera mans suggestion, most people would probably have just edited the vid out of SHAME!!!! love it.
Thanks for sharing. Don't know how this video came up but I have had this happen to me where the wall sticks out past the door slab. I used a large paint stir stick to fix the problem. Stuck the stir stick in scribed it with a utility knife and went from there. Thanks for sharing.
Vancouver, you are my hero!! I was having trouble thinning down the drywall in an area that wasn't flat enough for my tile job. So a big thank you to you for showing me how!
Carpenter in the UK here. We would usually rebate the back of the trim/architrave to sit flush as our walls are usually skimmed with plaster and sometimes are brick walls that have bonding into the bricks with the plaster skim on top so this method would only work for timber stud walls. The other method we use is using plant on strips to bridge the gap between the door lining and architrave.
You should become an Amazon affiliate and post links in the description to the products you use. Namely the adhesive you used in the beginning to join the casing Get the extra passive income going 👍
Hey man, pro tip for you and your viewers lol, when cutting drywall like this where the goal is clearing material or cutting through, make 1st score accurately, lay knife 45 and cut beside line , then score again on your mark, it let's the gypsum fall away.
Thank you for this video!! I’m renovating a house with my dad and ran into this problem. It stumped us both so I came to RUclips to find answers (like a true diy project lol) this is very helpful!!!
Great fix Ben. I’ve, rabbeted, Cut drywall and patched in filler pieces. Each situation is different and this is a great video for how to cut the drywall. Thank you
As a carpenter myself, this is absolutely positively NOT how you overcome this problem. Taking the time to adjust the lining instead of butchering someone's wall is the tradesman way around this
lol. I know you are getting dogged in the comments but frankly, I do like the honesty and real life "learn by doing" approach. Especially when your camera man gave you a tip. This might not be the solution for everyone but will work for those with limited tools and knowledge. Beats having a big ugly gap.
@@dennispope8160 Billy is right, the pro adds a small filler strip, they are made prefab in a plethora of dimensions with two sides painted, just for this.
@@sebbef82 Filler strips are just another joint that look bad unless you do a reveal on the jamb and then a reveal on the strip for the casing which still looks awkward, this method he showed is a good method. We just don't cut the drywall where the edge of the casing sits, we leave 1/2" of the drywall for the edge of the casing to rest on and then shave the drywall flush with the jamb. Works like a charm every time.
@@terryburgess6637 a lot of people don't know that. Do a RUclips teaching them. It is a really good way to solve the problem and looks really good and leaves a good reveal on the casing edge!
you doing it the RIGHT way, I used to work as a punch guy, fixing up the other "fast" carpenters work, those other guys hated me ...I just simply thanked them for providing me job security!
@@johndimambro6901 Exactly! Drywall guy here who cringed while watching this. What areas in the home are most prone to crack? Corners of windows and doors. Marginalizing the strength of the sheetrock in that very area by crushing it and potentially creating hairline cracks inside the drywall that may one day manifest into a 20” crack on the surface is amateur hour.
All these expert carpenters in the comment section, lol... This works well enough for your average house. Obviously you would do a filler piece if you had a consistent gap all the way around. But have fun cutting a 1/4" in filler piece to nothing over a 7ft span.
Crushing the drywall is the method that I see being used the most. But, they don’t peel off the paper, they just hammer the drywall until it is even with the casing. It’s quick, a lot less work and the casing isn’t recessed into the drywall.
The best and most pro way is to build out the jamb. But leaving the gap and caulking is better. Now the uneven trim will be noticed from across the room
Being that most new jambs have an eased edge. Building the jamb out leaves a map line unless you spend an hour puttying and sanding it. Scribing a line on the outside of the casing and then scoring about a 1/4" in let's you beat the drywall down with a hammer and block. The casing usually fits well afterword.
@@keithtomczyk4730 I've always done casings like you, there certainly are a lot of people commenting on this page that really have never done any amount of trim and it's almost hard to read their comments. It's sad to see you only have one thumbs up (from me) so far.
@@chrisingram7277 Thanks Chris. I've been a real carpenter for over 35 yrs. We all learn different techniques along our career,but you just have to remember. Carpentry is nothing but common sense in a calculator at times. you wouldn't believe some of the vloggers on YT. They give more misinformation than the better.
a good carpenter often is good at creating an Illusion to make it appear straight, thus chopping away the drywall and sinking in the trim at just the right depth does creates an excellent illusion , especially after caulking. I often carry some quick dry spackle to cover up any mistakes rather than caulk, since the caulking is often left to the painters.
If you V-cut your lines in the drywall towards the waste side, you give yourself a better chance of not disturbing other areas. Also, the oscillating tool will buzz through the drywall in a nice plane. Thin trim like that, this is the method. If you are casing with 1x4 or the like, you can remove the back with a table saw like some commenters. Both ways work.
A possible improvement on this method, which would reduce how much drywall you have to remove, would be to remove some material from the backside of the casing by running the backside over a tablesaw blade set about 1/16" or 1/8" high or so. Slowly remove material from the backside, essentially increasing the amount removed by the manufacturer of the casing. Watch your mitre though, you may have to "roll" the casing in a bit.
Your suggestion works for sure; however, I believe it is beyond the "comfort level" of the do it yourself guy/gal. The overwhelming majority of people only know how to rip boards on a table saw and most of them can't even do that safely. Maybe a flush-cut tool might be an option.
Since the jamb and the molding are white or painted it's would have looked fine to install the jamb and caulk that gap. After smoothing out the caulk it would not have been hardly noticeable.
Thank you very much for your very helpful videos!! I had this problem and also the problem shown in your other video, where the door (in my case window) jamb sticks out. Both of your methods worked great! I really appreciate your help with this. BTW I used a utility knife to score the outline and then an old chisel to remove the paper and gypsum. The chisel made it easy to see how much to remove to be in line with the jamb. It's probably not the fastest method but that was not a problem for the two small sections I had to do.
@@akaredcrossbow build out the frame with a filler piece is an option but in this case the wall only protrudes in one corner. To get a tight fit between the Architrave and the wall, I like to plane the back of the architrave to create a slight rebate this works well for me.
Peter Coughlan That definitely makes sense! Plane the inside of the architrave/molding to creat a lip at the bottom of the architrave/molding closest to the frame pulling it in to make it flush. Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻
Towards the end of the video he states that it’s for stain grain wood scenarios. This is the exact issue I have, I stained a mahogany door and am using white moldings, there’s a quarter inch drywall sticking out. I’m going to buy a thin piece of wood molding and build out the casing a bit but if i can’t match the stain then I’m going to have to do this method which I don’t want to do.
100% agree. This is the solution I came up with the first time I finished a house. I was wrong then and he's wrong now. Why not rabbit out the back like an actual carpenter.
I have just used my undercutting tool (oscillating saw) to gently cut up into the drywall after scribing the paper. The saw blade sits on the inside frame so you know you are getting the correct depth. Other days I just use latex caulk on the gap between the frame and the casing board.
i like your videos, and your work. i have been in the trades over 35 years, and if you were in CA, i'd be more than happy to hire you to work for me. most of the time some extra work produces a better job, and reflects quality workmanship, which in turn will bring referrals. even now, i learn some things from you.
THANK YOU I have a front door I have avoided trimming because I wasn't sure how to do it ... it is pretty bad ... worse than what you showed ... at least now I have a place to start from ... again. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
I love this technique. It’s easier to pull off with 3/4” trims. When I trace my casing with a blade I taper my cut line back to the door opening so the paper won’t tear off in the wrong direction too. I thought I was the only one with this trick! Nice video
When the walls are built out of plumb and you don’t want to make custom jambs. Otherwise your door will always swing closed or open when they’re not latched. That would look bad on a carpenters part too
Surgery. I don't know man,...Im such a pessimist about precision. Id probably remove the paper only and use a sur-form / sanding block to fine tune it.
when the finish carpenters were installing the maple window trim in our house , they did that pounding method but the dry wall people had to come back and refill the pounded sections (on all the windows)
How the heck do you make a 1/4" gap look decent? I can manage with 1/8", but 1/4"? I am facing a similar situation with a severely kinked jack stud where the door is 1/4" recessed for the first four feet on one side and 1/4" recessed for the remainder on the other side and sticking out in the other places.
Hey Man... you took the tip onboard with the right attitude which makes working with you fun. A lot a people don't and it makes for a stressful day at the office. I like your style. Thanks for sharing. John - Sydney Australia
No, as long as carving out of the drywall is required down where the baseboard is. If you have to carve out drywall down at that level, then *yes* the baseboard could be proud of the door casing and that would suck. In that case, may have to add a 1/4 in strip to the door jamb and taper it down. Way too fussy for me.
Guys, I think he’s just trolling us with this one. He’s a pretty smart guy and like 99% of his content is TIGHT. Really think we’re getting trolled...gangster style.
Waterburyfixit I’ve seen a ton of guys do this, the other problem is the wall probably isn’t plumb but the door is, it’s probably the opposite problem on the other side
There MIGHT be one side of one doorway that is actually square and plumb in both directions in the crappy houses I see all the time. People SAY they are true, all the time. Stabila says, "No."
I'm doing a remodel on a kitchen in a rental unit so your channel came up in my feed. I'm watching this and I'm like, "Isn't that the skateboarder?" LOL, now I'm subscribed to both channels.
I did this to about five doors in an older house with plastered walls I used an angle grinder to wear the high spots down after I scribed my lines and it made a nice smooth surface
It's not the door frame shewner r The problem is in the framing on that upper corner! Header perhaps misaligned with the Jack-stud? The rest of the frame is shown to be correct!
I don't know who really came out with it first but I use the Fastcap version, 2p-10... That stuff is such a game changer. In reality it takes about 3sec to hold and then 20sec to be really strong. So awesome for when you don't have time and clamps to use woodglue but need a stout bond
@@mikeoconnell4229 honestly, if you don't cut a new door jam that actually fits. or biscuit a jam extension - all tricks for this are gonna be bullsh*t.
It would probably be easier to install a deeper door frame that sits proud of the dry wall. Any subsequent gaps in the surrounding door frame could then be easily caulked. It would also be good to have a door surround that matches the existing door on the right.
@Vancouver Carpenter. Thank you for the suggestion. Like you said, it's one way of fixing the problem. I don't know whether it's the framer's fault for creating the problem. When the door is hung, how likely is the jamb or header opening to be wider just in one area or will the entire opening be off by the same amount say 1/4" or 1/2" off? Caulking is not always an option like you said, when you have stain grade casing. The front door to my house had a 1/2" gap between the the exterior and interior framing. What did the door hanger do? Cocked the door frame so that the latch side was flush to the inside and the hinge side was pushed towards the outside. Caulked the gaps. When someone said that caulk hides sins wasn't kidding in this case. They didn't even fill the gap with a little bit of backer rod before caulking. Must have used an entire tube just on that mistake. When I wanted to switch to paint grade casing, I had a rude awakening. Cut a long 1/2" shim to fill out the hinge side and a tapered shim to fill the header. Hope you and your family stay well and safe.
Yeah if it's just a little bit you can manipulate it, but if it's a half inch it's easy to just add an extension jamb Edit just reread: yeah I didn't realize you meant the exterior side, that's why in those situations we put everything flush with the outside and we can add strips on the inside of we need them
Mr. Obvious, Imagine sometimes you just gotta work with what you got and the video is to show a quick work around since the gap was in just a small area. Means something was slightly off only there.
@West Yorkshire bulking out the door post with an infill piece all the way round, basically making the frame the width required . ------ re the skirting board. . .he could use a bit of 4x2 as a baseblock. lol
I've had to do this on many remo jobs. Sometimes the wall is so out of plumb I've had to cut a long tapering wedge of trim to fit the gap at the top so the bottom of the casing won't be so embedded in the drywall, or vice-versa. To do this I free-hand a taper on the table saw, and clean it up with the power planer. Takes some finesse, but is doable. Would work with stain-grade if you're really careful. I've also dealt with this by rabbeting out the backside of the casing to accommodate the proud drywall surface. A combo of skills and a good plan makes it all work out. I would NEVER just caulk the crap out of a big gap unless circumstances were such that it made doing that okay.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I've found that tearing down the house and starting over with the mistake in mind will prevent it from happening during the new build.
Lmfao
Good thinkin !!
LOL
Tear it down to the studs and if that isn't enough tear it all down break the concrete foundation and start fresh.
LMFAO
Yes , yes that's how it's done. Just look out for new mistakes!!!
I really appreciate how you don't edit out those moments when your camera guy offers advice, and when you make subtle mistakes. Very helpful way to produce a video like this. Thank you.
It’s pathetic
Like you.
Or you could use your table saw to run a small channel in the back of the trim so it relieves the spot where the wall bumps out. That way you get full reveal on the trim sides
Everytime I need drywall help, your videos appear, and your suggestions are absolutely gold. I also just want to say it's great that you leave your mistakes in the videos and speak to them. Helps me avoid the same!
It never hurts to watch how others tackle common problems. Shared knowledge makes us better at what we do. Saves us time involved in the trial and error method. Hats off Brother.
In building a home .. The problem tackled him .. Sharing stupidity is not sharing knowledge
You get a hammer and bash the wall until the trim fits. Estimated time: 17.4 seconds.
That's what my Eastwing was designed for. Beating the shiznit out of it and moving on. Next!
I second to that one
This is also my solution.
🤣😂🤣
@@samoanSAIYAN how come you laughing? What would you do? Lol
I appreciate your humble attitude and recognizing that you can learn even while you're teaching. Very important
I am so glad you let the assistant’s comment in the video. It shows it is good to be humble and accept good ideas from where they may come, and to give credit where credit is due.
This is a nifty trick, I learned something today. I can see a multi tool working really well to make this a lot cleaner
I considered using this method to solve my problem for about a minute. I didn’t like the thought of removing my drywall permanently and I didn’t like the thought of the recessed trim into the wall. Not a good look. I think the better choice is to use a jamb extension (1/4” lattice in my case) to bring the casing flush with the wall giving a more uniform look and retaining the thickness of the casing. If I had chosen the fix mentioned in the video, it would have compounded my problem with the future wainscoting that was to be installed. This video is not a good remedy for the problem but I suppose it may have a use in some cases. Consider using a jamb extension.
In the case of the margin being uniformly out around the frame absolutely.
Personally I’d rather leave the gap and caulk and paint as it’s just one corner. Regardless, either is better than cutting the Sheetrock back unless there’s no other option.
The reason for this is because in my case a 2x6 isn't done right. I've seen them range 1/8" different for thickness, width and length. Even precut studs.
thanks so much for this video. i have this same problem with the drywall sitting out too far, and my molding has just been sitting in the corner. i tried taking it down with a rasp, but it didn't help so i am so grateful you posted this. i am a 71 year old woman, and not a pro redoing a whole 100 year old house by myself, and i need all the help i can get. thanks, and be blessed
Well he fooled someone 😂
Get wider trim boards and make your life easier. If you don't have the proper tools to rip the boards and plane them to width than maybe you shouldn't be doing it.
When I have this problem, i plane the back of the architrave to create a rebate, because if the wall is masonry you can't easily chop it out
Eggzackly. That's what power planners are for. Seems that the chippie who put the door lining in canted it off plumb so on the other side of the partition the lining will protrude. Take the fixing out and reinstate it plum.
@@Saxondog Do you actually know how to hang a door? If the door was hung properly all 4 corners are in the same plane so that it closes properly. If the 4 corners of the wall aren't all in the same plane it's impossible to have the door match up to the wall and still close properly. Or maybe the problem in this case is that the door was installed plumb when the wall isn't plumb.
That's the proper way to do it
Looks like the walls made of metal stud and the liner put the door header in wrong with the wrong screws causing the plaster board to be proud at the door frame corners ,I
All ways mitre the stud and fix from the inside the you don't get that problem
@@stevepseudonym445 Yes mate I can hang a door. It's very unlikely that the wall or stud is gonna be that far out of plumb.
Do you know how to fix a door lining. ?
I never done it this way, usually I use a filler piece of wood, nail it and then caulk it.
Frankie 431 🤢🤢
Alexander 😂😂
@@Frankie431 yeah frankie, i think that your way is more proper way of doing it. Also i do the filling on the inside of the room, cause if i have more than one door on the outside of the room and u fill one, but others dont need the filled, then it wont look rite
@Woodcock Johnson you sir are correct
@Woodcock Johnson true on the jam prob installed crooked but sometimes it's the framing and the drywaller has no time to fix f up framing. Then what do you do?
I watched your vid to solve this problem last week to install a solid core door. Instead of glaziers bar, I used an oscillating saw. I then put a thin coat of hot mud and tape to strengthen the where I cut the wall. Thank you for the great video! Thanks Ben!
My first time ever doing construction, my first boss taught me to never hammer tools with your hands. He said you will regret it when your old like him.
I just want to echo and reinforce this message, I learned the same lesson but in the context of the kitchen, crushing garlic like a showoff. Our carpal bones aren't resilient to repetitive impact.
Also guilty here. My grandfather would say. "Don't use your hand as a hammer."
My palms hurt with the slightest tap after 25 years
I'm sorry, however where was or where did you are raise its head in this conversation?
My first construction boss told me the exact same thing.
I have a 50 year old home with a cement/plaster board combo for the walls. No wall is the same especially around doors. I was going to do the same thing on one occasion, but instead added wood strips to the door jamb. I then applied spackling prior to painting and you would never know there was strips of wood.
I have the same walls. Going to try this. Thx
I just grind back of the molding.
I’m a “strip” kinda guy too. Way less work and mess. Especially if the casing/ jamb is the same finish and the wall is a contrasting finish. The thinner casing reveal from the rest of the doors in the room/ hall will pop out.
I often learn more from the comments... that's why these videos are so helpful
I ran into this problem when I installed wainscoting on an entire wall. I had a 1/4" gap on the door and window jambs. I just cut 1/4" strips and extended the jambs. I had to caulk a few spots and sand but overall it turned out nice after paint. No way I'm ripping drywall 😂 I guess if it works
Shane Michael well that’s what your supposed to do unless you ordered the jambs 1/4” wider. There isn’t much else you can do
Long walk for a short drink of water.
You can't sand caulk. I'd be interested to hear from any painters about your ''solution."
michael charest that’s what I do. Just caulk.
It would bug me seeing my trim disappear into the wall from floor to ceiling.
It did for the first day or two but now I dont see it, none of my guests notice it either unless i point to it
When wall is out of plumb it gets funky. U could take a block of wood and smack jamb over then take hinge pin out and bend it so door doesn’t swing closed of opened. Best to do what u got to do.
Exactly!!!!!
See, it's the walls fault to make this bug, so you take it out on the root cause! doesn't straight trim look better.
Thanks for including the "mistakes" and aha moment like the cameraman's suggestion. Really displays your humility.
I go straight to the hammer. No scribing or cutting needed. The framers don't get the door and window headers flush with the studs because they probably build the wall with the interior face down on the floor, make sure the outside (that they have to sheet) isn't protruding out, stand it up and call it good.
I personally would have put a 1/4 inch filler between the casing and the door jam. Those thin strips are available at any home improvement store. Then, you would not have to hack away at the wall.
That works great if you have a uniform gap that's the right size. And if you don't mind the 2 extra seams. And if you either bring an assortment just in case or don't mind going to get them once you know what you need.
I do a furring strip or roll the miter
Have cut shim stock down to match incline glued, installed trim and painted. Not noticeable once painted
Paint stirrer would likely have done the trick to fill that gap. Or a 3' wooden ruler trimmed to length.
Good job bro. Been doing this for 40+ yrs and never thought of that. Goes to show,you learn something new every day!
🤣
Great tip! I just ran into this problem today while renovating my house and remembered I saw ur video awhile back while binge watch your channel, watched it again to refresh my memory and BAM got beautiful trim thanks to you! 👍🏻 love your channel man!
@chris widney only thing I did different was I didnt smash the sheetrock I left it as is and took a 2 1/2 in chisel and just shaved it flush with the casing, I was only about a 1/4 inch off to start so mine came out great, after caulk u can't tell a thing, I will say if it's really off I'd just Rip everything out and redo it right
Bravo for having the humility to keep the helpful filmer suggestion in the video!
I have watched a lot of your videos, and usually I think your work is really solid. I am anal about drywall as an ex-handyman and a homeowner that does his own work on a crappy house. I would be quite upset if I found this behind the trim. Just back cut the trim or extend the frame... Way less work for the next guy...
I agree....this was butchery of the highest order. Imagine someone in the future decided to change doors and chose a smaller style casing 🙈🙈. And if the wood warps or shrinks by even a little it will look like a botch job.
@@jessejameson154 WHO CARES ABOUT THE NEXT OWNER
I like how he added that little tidbit about caulking at the end. The moment he mentioned cutting the drywall out i started internally screaming "Just caulk the f###er and move on". The explanation made a lot of sense. I'll have to remember this trick.
Caulking big gaps in your door trim will eventually fault. Especially if it's a heavily used door that gets slammed a lot
@@blackmatterlives9865 not if you pre fill with foam.
Hey appreciate you being real about the hammer trick. Easy to forget stuff. Enjoy your channel, thanks for putting them up .
I know this video isn’t old, but like all of your videos, it’s filled with expert advice. Thank you for all of your time doing these.
I appreciate that!
Of course I meant to say this video isn't new....... But you know what I meant. Thanks again great stuff
To be clear, I am not speaking negatively of your fix. I am of the mindset to do whatever it takes to get the end result. However, it blows my mind how many homeowners would flip out about fixes like this. I have literally ran into situations where no one will know what was done to fix a problem and the homeowner says "I will always know that it's like that and I won't be happy". I am talking about something as simple as a small hole in the drywall behind a cabinet. On your fix you have the reveal change in the trim that you pointed out. I have worked for homeowners that would absolutely freak out.
Years ago I worked for a man who taught me this, "If I do the VERY BEST that I can do, it might BARELY be good enough". Now you have to understand that mindset to appreciate it. I tell myself that line all the time and it keeps me from being lazy on the job.
Again, my comment is not to negatively reflect on your method. That looks like something I would do in the cases that I could "get away with it". It just blows my mind some times when homeowners have unreasonable expectations mixed with "the customer is always right". My contracts basically say "the customer is not always right". When you hire my company you are hiring professionals to do the job therefore, we're not going to bow to your expertise on that matter Mr. or Mrs. Homeowner.
Does that make sense?
I like the regular guy approach to this where you get the idea, and then improvise to make it work in your own situation
Teachers pet.
Archimedes said “give me glue and hammer, and a place to stand, and I can botch any job.”
😂🤣😅
this guys lame game is next level, i love it. *edit, also thank you for not editing out the camera mans suggestion, most people would probably have just edited the vid out of SHAME!!!! love it.
Can you use edit again for grammar-purposes??
Thanks for sharing. Don't know how this video came up but I have had this happen to me where the wall sticks out past the door slab. I used a large paint stir stick to fix the problem. Stuck the stir stick in scribed it with a utility knife and went from there. Thanks for sharing.
Vancouver, you are my hero!! I was having trouble thinning down the drywall in an area that wasn't flat enough for my tile job. So a big thank you to you for showing me how!
Carpenter in the UK here. We would usually rebate the back of the trim/architrave to sit flush as our walls are usually skimmed with plaster and sometimes are brick walls that have bonding into the bricks with the plaster skim on top so this method would only work for timber stud walls.
The other method we use is using plant on strips to bridge the gap between the door lining and architrave.
You should become an Amazon affiliate and post links in the description to the products you use. Namely the adhesive you used in the beginning to join the casing
Get the extra passive income going 👍
The adhesive is called cyanoacrylate glue. Brand name is 2P-10. It is a game changer.
PS: It’ll glue your skin in about 3 seconds.
@@allannielsen4901 yeah never used it myself but have seen it in a couple videos
Amazing stuff!
I will post a link in my next video. I am already set up for that.
@@vancouvercarpenter awesome dude 👍👍
allan nielsen it is CA glue, but that is not Fastcap’s 2p-10 brand. Not sure what brand it was.
i would probably use an oscillating multi tool to back cut , Thnx for all the gr8 vid's by the way !
Hey man, pro tip for you and your viewers lol, when cutting drywall like this where the goal is clearing material or cutting through, make 1st score accurately, lay knife 45 and cut beside line , then score again on your mark, it let's the gypsum fall away.
Thank you for this video!! I’m renovating a house with my dad and ran into this problem. It stumped us both so I came to RUclips to find answers (like a true diy project lol) this is very helpful!!!
Great fix Ben. I’ve, rabbeted, Cut drywall and patched in filler pieces. Each situation is different and this is a great video for how to cut the drywall. Thank you
Yup. Every situation is different. If it's a long consistent gap rabbets and filler strips work great too.
As a carpenter myself, this is absolutely positively NOT how you overcome this problem. Taking the time to adjust the lining instead of butchering someone's wall is the tradesman way around this
Can you explain the lining part?
The lining is the jamb
So how would you fix this yourself?
VC love 99% of your videos do to your workmanship, quality, and reliability. Scratching my head on this one though.
lol. I know you are getting dogged in the comments but frankly, I do like the honesty and real life "learn by doing" approach. Especially when your camera man gave you a tip. This might not be the solution for everyone but will work for those with limited tools and knowledge. Beats having a big ugly gap.
What the hell did i just watch... never do this... ever.. omg
Instead of saying this why don’t you provide a better solution that doesn’t involve gobs of caulk or tearing down a wall?
@@dennispope8160 roll the edge.
@@dennispope8160 Billy is right, the pro adds a small filler strip, they are made prefab in a plethora of dimensions with two sides painted, just for this.
@@sebbef82 Filler strips are just another joint that look bad unless you do a reveal on the jamb and then a reveal on the strip for the casing which still looks awkward, this method he showed is a good method. We just don't cut the drywall where the edge of the casing sits, we leave 1/2" of the drywall for the edge of the casing to rest on and then shave the drywall flush with the jamb. Works like a charm every time.
Dude, for fucking realz
I really wouldn't call this a trick, its more of an extreme hack.
Bodge you mean.
Quite common method on remodels, not sure why you call it a hack.
Do you have a better suggestion?
Yes! (roll the miter). Shim it on the saw so you’re cutting the trim nested and miter will be perfect and gap will disappear.
@@terryburgess6637 a lot of people don't know that. Do a RUclips teaching them. It is a really good way to solve the problem and looks really good and leaves a good reveal on the casing edge!
you doing it the RIGHT way, I used to work as a punch guy, fixing up the other "fast" carpenters work, those other guys hated me ...I just simply thanked them for providing me job security!
Ok, but grammar?
Lol not the right way, holy fuck.
@@johndimambro6901 What are you babbling about, John?
@@johndimambro6901 Exactly! Drywall guy here who cringed while watching this. What areas in the home are most prone to crack? Corners of windows and doors. Marginalizing the strength of the sheetrock in that very area by crushing it and potentially creating hairline cracks inside the drywall that may one day manifest into a 20” crack on the surface is amateur hour.
All these expert carpenters in the comment section, lol... This works well enough for your average house. Obviously you would do a filler piece if you had a consistent gap all the way around. But have fun cutting a 1/4" in filler piece to nothing over a 7ft span.
Love the fact that you showed us how even you guys that know so much are always learning too! Refreshing to see a humble pro!!
Crushing the drywall is the method that I see being used the most. But, they don’t peel off the paper, they just hammer the drywall until it is even with the casing. It’s quick, a lot less work and the casing isn’t recessed into the drywall.
The best and most pro way is to build out the jamb. But leaving the gap and caulking is better.
Now the uneven trim will be noticed from across the room
You might see it from across the room, but the average customer is clueless to seeing that.
Being that most new jambs have an eased edge. Building the jamb out leaves a map line unless you spend an hour puttying and sanding it.
Scribing a line on the outside of the casing and then scoring about a 1/4" in let's you beat the drywall down with a hammer and block.
The casing usually fits well afterword.
@@keithtomczyk4730 I've always done casings like you, there certainly are a lot of people commenting on this page that really have never done any amount of trim and it's almost hard to read their comments. It's sad to see you only have one thumbs up (from me) so far.
@@chrisingram7277 Thanks Chris.
I've been a real carpenter for over 35 yrs.
We all learn different techniques along our career,but you just have to remember.
Carpentry is nothing but common sense in a calculator at times.
you wouldn't believe some of the vloggers on YT. They give more misinformation than the better.
Yes your correct. I would rather build out and have a two step margin looks alot better
So much easier back cutting the trim on the table saw
WTF?
I use an cordless planner to back of the timber .. Results in a perfect fit .And the gyprock retains its full structural integrity.
It all depends on what tools you are familiar with.
All you non builders should just 🤫
@@kashmoni1085 I have been a finish carpenter for 25 years. The last thing you want to do is take out the structure of the drywall.
But now you've lost 1/4" of the trim into the wall. It doesn't look right.
Looks better that the alternative though. Thats building work for you, someone else does a f*** up you come in and have to deal with it
a good carpenter often is good at creating an Illusion to make it appear straight, thus chopping away the drywall and sinking in the trim at just the right depth does creates an excellent illusion , especially after caulking. I often carry some quick dry spackle to cover up any mistakes rather than caulk, since the caulking is often left to the painters.
If you V-cut your lines in the drywall towards the waste side, you give yourself a better chance of not disturbing other areas. Also, the oscillating tool will buzz through the drywall in a nice plane. Thin trim like that, this is the method. If you are casing with 1x4 or the like, you can remove the back with a table saw like some commenters. Both ways work.
Lol, it always happens. You're doing a job and your mate comes up with a better way! Always learning for us all.
A possible improvement on this method, which would reduce how much drywall you have to remove, would be to remove some material from the backside of the casing by running the backside over a tablesaw blade set about 1/16" or 1/8" high or so. Slowly remove material from the backside, essentially increasing the amount removed by the manufacturer of the casing. Watch your mitre though, you may have to "roll" the casing in a bit.
Whoops , I see my comment is redundant bc I failed to scroll down to yours …
Your suggestion works for sure; however, I believe it is beyond the "comfort level" of the do it yourself guy/gal. The overwhelming majority of people only know how to rip boards on a table saw and most of them can't even do that safely. Maybe a flush-cut tool might be an option.
@@christopherpavlicas Very good point !
A drywall rasp works better for shaving the gypsum after you've peeled the paper layer off. I use the same technic when I install windows and doors
Since the jamb and the molding are white or painted it's would have looked fine to install the jamb and caulk that gap. After smoothing out the caulk it would not have been hardly noticeable.
If you pocket hole the miters. They will not come apart. Been there and done it thousands of times good job May God continue to bless you.
Thank you very much for your very helpful videos!! I had this problem and also the problem shown in your other video, where the door (in my case window) jamb sticks out. Both of your methods worked great! I really appreciate your help with this. BTW I used a utility knife to score the outline and then an old chisel to remove the paper and gypsum. The chisel made it easy to see how much to remove to be in line with the jamb. It's probably not the fastest method but that was not a problem for the two small sections I had to do.
On my own house, I just don't install the trim. You get used to looking at it after a while and can go do some other things.
VC, you have a solution for every friggin' problem I currently have in my house. I can't thank you enough for making these videos!
Video should be called what NOT to do when the wall sticks out past the door jam.
Peter Coughlan i would think a filler piece of wood would be the better option! What else could you do?
@@akaredcrossbow build out the frame with a filler piece is an option but in this case the wall only protrudes in one corner. To get a tight fit between the Architrave and the wall, I like to plane the back of the architrave to create a slight rebate this works well for me.
Peter Coughlan That definitely makes sense! Plane the inside of the architrave/molding to creat a lip at the bottom of the architrave/molding closest to the frame pulling it in to make it flush.
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻
Towards the end of the video he states that it’s for stain grain wood scenarios. This is the exact issue I have, I stained a mahogany door and am using white moldings, there’s a quarter inch drywall sticking out. I’m going to buy a thin piece of wood molding and build out the casing a bit but if i can’t match the stain then I’m going to have to do this method which I don’t want to do.
100% agree. This is the solution I came up with the first time I finished a house. I was wrong then and he's wrong now. Why not rabbit out the back like an actual carpenter.
I've got that problem in my front door and didn't know how to handle it. Great idea thanks!
I have just used my undercutting tool (oscillating saw) to gently cut up into the drywall after scribing the paper. The saw blade sits on the inside frame so you know you are getting the correct depth. Other days I just use latex caulk on the gap between the frame and the casing board.
I‘m working in the door industry in Europe and have to say you guys over the pond should do some industrial espionage. Just sayin.
Yea I see your drywall guys single spotting screws on a 1000 sheet job... They thought they were better too
And for that matter your so good at it, why don't you enlighten is simpleton Yankees eh?
i like your videos, and your work. i have been in the trades over 35 years, and
if you were in CA, i'd be more than happy to hire you to work for me. most of the
time some extra work produces a better job, and reflects quality workmanship,
which in turn will bring referrals. even now, i learn some things from you.
I just run my knife and cut the drywall at an angle towards the door, works good for me. Saw it on another video
They're mistakes we all make and it's good to see that the pro's aren't perfect either. Thank you for another great video.
THANK YOU I have a front door I have avoided trimming because I wasn't sure how to do it ... it is pretty bad ... worse than what you showed ... at least now I have a place to start from ... again. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Holy hackadoodle do. Fine example of the guy who goes on his own when he is still a helper.
I love this technique. It’s easier to pull off with 3/4” trims. When I trace my casing with a blade I taper my cut line back to the door opening so the paper won’t tear off in the wrong direction too. I thought I was the only one with this trick! Nice video
It's called cheating and it's far from a quality job... Would you do this kind of work in YOUR home?
When the walls are built out of plumb and you don’t want to make custom jambs. Otherwise your door will always swing closed or open when they’re not latched. That would look bad on a carpenters part too
Surgery.
I don't know man,...Im such a pessimist about precision.
Id probably remove the paper only
and use a sur-form / sanding block to fine tune it.
ya or my oscillating tool.
Awesome to see a professional that knows how to take criticism.
when the finish carpenters were installing the maple window trim in our house , they did that pounding method but the dry wall people had to come back and refill the pounded sections (on all the windows)
Being that this was an interior door, could you have just used some 1/4inch shims in your nail locations?
for 1/4" of trouble? heck I'd calk it then paint to match and call it a day.
Caulk and putty are a carpenter's buddies
Nice
How the heck do you make a 1/4" gap look decent? I can manage with 1/8", but 1/4"? I am facing a similar situation with a severely kinked jack stud where the door is 1/4" recessed for the first four feet on one side and 1/4" recessed for the remainder on the other side and sticking out in the other places.
@@confidentlocal8600 cut some 3/16-1/4" shims and place where needed. Then just cover n paint.
Wait till you reno an old house made of actual 2x4's. Lots of fun with standard 4-1/2" door jamb lumber!
Lol that's part of my house, the rest is chainsaw squared timbers build by drunk farmers 70yrs ago🤣 been an adventure!
Hey Man... you took the tip onboard with the right attitude which makes working with you fun. A lot a people don't and it makes for a stressful day at the office. I like your style. Thanks for sharing. John - Sydney Australia
Glad that you’re still keeping it real. 👍🏻 Good job!
So now won't the baseboards sit higher??
No, as long as carving out of the drywall is required down where the baseboard is. If you have to carve out drywall down at that level, then *yes* the baseboard could be proud of the door casing and that would suck. In that case, may have to add a 1/4 in strip to the door jamb and taper it down. Way too fussy for me.
Base board should always be thinner anyway, so might end up flush if lucky.
My phone is monitoring my conversations, it came up with a solution that I did not even search up yet.
Guys, I think he’s just trolling us with this one. He’s a pretty smart guy and like 99% of his content is TIGHT.
Really think we’re getting trolled...gangster style.
Waterburyfixit I seriously checked to see if he published on April 1st.
Waterburyfixit I’ve seen a ton of guys do this, the other problem is the wall probably isn’t plumb but the door is, it’s probably the opposite problem on the other side
Yes i agree.
There MIGHT be one side of one doorway that is actually square and plumb in both directions in the crappy houses I see all the time. People SAY they are true, all the time. Stabila says, "No."
Another way of saying the advice in this video is horrible.
I'm doing a remodel on a kitchen in a rental unit so your channel came up in my feed. I'm watching this and I'm like, "Isn't that the skateboarder?" LOL, now I'm subscribed to both channels.
I did this to about five doors in an older house with plastered walls I used an angle grinder to wear the high spots down after I scribed my lines and it made a nice smooth surface
Reframe the opening with proper lumber,like it should have been done to start with.
Agreed get it rite from start
Awesome video bro I like how real this video is.
Thanks Jose!
Would it not be easier just to install the door correctly?
@@markclauss8653 I went to work for myself.
I found out that the boss is a jerk.
Plus fucking dingbat architects for some reason think screws, material imperfections, and mud all have zero thickness when they want materials ordered
It's not the door frame shewner r
The problem is in the framing on that upper corner! Header perhaps misaligned with the Jack-stud? The rest of the frame is shown to be correct!
@@mikeoconnell4229 Thanks, I could not see that when I watched on the phone.
Framing problem much harder to fix correctly once the drywall is on.
Thank you 20 doors in some low end apartments. Also that little tidbit about the nail gun my God thank you
I don't know who really came out with it first but I use the Fastcap version, 2p-10... That stuff is such a game changer. In reality it takes about 3sec to hold and then 20sec to be really strong. So awesome for when you don't have time and clamps to use woodglue but need a stout bond
I just grab a hammer and smash the drywall enough so the trim will sit flat.
That's what I've seen.
Spanish way bro.
@@TheAavelar007 yeah, that's why p.r. falls apart in a tremmer.
4:30 - cameraman "Can I see that hammer for a sec, I think it would be easier if you just smashed the stuff"
@@mikeoconnell4229 honestly, if you don't cut a new door jam that actually fits. or biscuit a jam extension - all tricks for this are gonna be bullsh*t.
no choice, gotta burn the house down. 🔥🔥
Only a controlled burn is needed
It would probably be easier to install a deeper door frame that sits proud of the dry wall. Any subsequent gaps in the surrounding door frame could then be easily caulked. It would also be good to have a door surround that matches the existing door on the right.
How is that easier? Plus they are being paid do a certain job not fix other people’s mistakes.
I've had a similar problem before, and just table sawed some custom pieces to extend the door frame face out flush with the drywall first.
@Vancouver Carpenter. Thank you for the suggestion. Like you said, it's one way of fixing the problem. I don't know whether it's the framer's fault for creating the problem. When the door is hung, how likely is the jamb or header opening to be wider just in one area or will the entire opening be off by the same amount say 1/4" or 1/2" off? Caulking is not always an option like you said, when you have stain grade casing.
The front door to my house had a 1/2" gap between the the exterior and interior framing. What did the door hanger do? Cocked the door frame so that the latch side was flush to the inside and the hinge side was pushed towards the outside. Caulked the gaps. When someone said that caulk hides sins wasn't kidding in this case. They didn't even fill the gap with a little bit of backer rod before caulking. Must have used an entire tube just on that mistake. When I wanted to switch to paint grade casing, I had a rude awakening. Cut a long 1/2" shim to fill out the hinge side and a tapered shim to fill the header.
Hope you and your family stay well and safe.
Yeah if it's just a little bit you can manipulate it, but if it's a half inch it's easy to just add an extension jamb
Edit just reread: yeah I didn't realize you meant the exterior side, that's why in those situations we put everything flush with the outside and we can add strips on the inside of we need them
Yeah well, you should never have installed that door jamb. Use 1 x 6 poplar, rip it to fit the wall thickness plus maybe 1/16". Boom done.
Mr. Obvious, Imagine sometimes you just gotta work with what you got and the video is to show a quick work around since the gap was in just a small area. Means something was slightly off only there.
Almost homeowners install prehung doors so they get what they get but yes in this case I’m with I I would build my own jam rip to fit
The other issue is the wall probably isn’t plumb but the door is so it will work properly!!
IsidorShishkovski
Mr. Stupid, you sound stupid.
michael charest The jambs can be out of level, just hand the door level.
I usually tell the home owner "Ma'am, you might want to step outside while I modify your house", then go to cuttin & beatin.
LOL I read this before I watched, so the cameraman at around 4:30 killed me...
Or just use a wooden spacer between the architrave and door jamb instead of destroying the drywall. Doh.
@West Yorkshire bulking out the door post with an infill piece all the way round, basically making the frame the width required . ------ re the skirting board. . .he could use a bit of 4x2 as a baseblock. lol
I've had to do this on many remo jobs. Sometimes the wall is so out of plumb I've had to cut a long tapering wedge of trim to fit the gap at the top so the bottom of the casing won't be so embedded in the drywall, or vice-versa. To do this I free-hand a taper on the table saw, and clean it up with the power planer. Takes some finesse, but is doable. Would work with stain-grade if you're really careful. I've also dealt with this by rabbeting out the backside of the casing to accommodate the proud drywall surface. A combo of skills and a good plan makes it all work out. I would NEVER just caulk the crap out of a big gap unless circumstances were such that it made doing that okay.
Thanks a ton!!! The little hints like holding the gun sideways are the things that us amateurs don't know.