As we head along through the 21st century and suffer the lack of trades training and shop class, etc. there are a lot of guys who don't know how to do this stuff. Dads and granddads used to show sons and grandsons how to fix stuff. Not so much nowadays. What you are doing here is fantastic. Thanks for your careful presentation and insights. I am very much self-taught on home repair and maintenance and this is way better than the old days when I would head down to the library on Saturdays to consult whatever books they had. Keep 'em coming. BTW - that tip on caulk that really does the job - big thanks there too. Good tools and good materials are part of the "secret".
Your video helped me understand what needs to be done to fix the same problem I am having with a leak at the back of my chimney. Your detailed explanation will very helpful to me when I discuss the repair with the roofer. Thank you
I have a box chimney to flash so I was hitting up some ideas. The others I seen just to quick, your teaching and method was very helpful and I actually enjoyed the presentation from start to finish. Thank you, as I feel a bit more confident to take on the challenge.
Drag the air hose up there and blast all of the dust out of the grooves in the masonry. After dry fitting the flashing, put it out and apply a bead of masonry rated caulking into the groove. Then a thin bead on the edge of the flashing. Both sides. Then install the flashing into the groove. Then when it's all done, a final bead where the masonry meets the flashing. On the carpentry, always staple some roofing felt to the wood where it is going to touch the masonry.
I am getting ready to have my roof done. Years ago a "cricket" was installed. I needed to know what it was and if they will do a good job when roofing. Thank you for informative video.
nice video. but, i always thought you should use step flashing on the rake side of the chimney. how do you keep the water from flowing down the flashing and under the edge of the shingles?
The one piece side metal will leak. Ask a roofer the difference between tile pan (tile roofs) and step flashing (shingle roofs). COUNTER FLASHING RECOMMEND ON ALL 4 SIDES!
I like to run a piece of flashing above the chimney flashing in a seam of the brick. Fold it down so it covers the joint between the existing flashing and the chimney. Trim the bottom edge so it follows the roof line, leaving only an inch or so of the roof flashing visible. This creates a virtually foolproof overlap, so the roof/chimney joint cannot leak. Also, the flashing you fit in the roof valleys didn't have a turned up edge along the sides. Without this edge, water can simply run off the sides and under the shingles. Make an edge, only about 1/8"-1/4" is fine, and allow the end of the flashing to exit out onto a shingle or gutter, so the water will stay in the flashing "valley" and be carried away.
i don't mind long videos because I'm all about the details. I make my vids as long as necessary to show how to get the job done right. That leak sucked after all that work you did, i felt your pain! I like to apply roofing sealant underneath every corner of the flashing, where ever the flashing lays on top of the other piece. I'm not a roofer but have 18 years in the remodeling business. Yes i have aches and pains!
agree i also try to add seal under or butyl tapes under the flashings as installed. happen to really enjoy his longer video ...totally interesting details as well. btw many of the Amish roofers in this area use that sealant..they seem to have good experiences with it. i specifically discussed the sealant with them. still you like what works on the job. that house had a really rough roof deck.
I use a counter flashing and on top of the counter flashing has a kick out Groove to hold caulking it is the best method I found and I've been Roofing 33 years
I was going to say the same. A single piece water could theoretically get back under it. With step if water gets under one flashing then its on top of a shingle and so on and so forth.
To find that roof angle, it's a lot faster and easier to just use a bevel square. Place the bevel square on top of your level you showed in the beginning of your video, then adjust the blade to the exact angle of the roof and tighten the wingnut on the bevel square. No need for complicated calculations. This method is foolproof and fast.
I’m a fool, and foolproof is the kind of tip I need. I wasn’t sure what a bevel square was, but as I read your comments I understood what the tool is. I’ve seen them before.
I love watching your videos... very informative and easy to follow for a common man like me. Just like the last commenter said, you have a great voice, and you are patient enough to explain all the little things that your viewers find interesting or may not have understood. Keep up the great work! I would love to hear a "As always, take care, and God bless" at the closing of your video with you looking at the camera... that is what originally got me to subscribe :)
Personally I have had great luck with Lexel. it does dry but stays very flexible for years....that is what makes it so good, in my opinion. I just ran some quarter inch beads on my aluminum truck cap to stop a leak and not 5 minutes after i was done it rained as hard as I have ever seen it...the Lexel survived perfectly. I even use the stuff the repair tears in my breathable waders.
You're one of my favorite You Tubers! The content and delivery are like it's a couple of guys on a job. One knows how, that's you, and one who doesn't, that's me. I always pick up something from your uploads. Thanks for the effort!
No expert here... but I had several cartridges of Roofers Choice Plastic Roof Cement (I think it is just tar in a tube) left over. So I used that to seal the flashing an any gaps I found. No leaks that I know of, but I did not go into the attic to find out. I live here... so if it leaks... I will know it soon enough. Otherwise, excellent video. Oh yeah, I wasn't tying into a brick chimney, so I used the framing of the chimney to support the cricket rafter on one end and miter cut the other end to match roof slope. Since I was working with bare plywood (roof, chimney, and cricket), I compound cut the plywood for the cricket roof(?) and just deck screwed them in place. Roof cemented all edges, and then for good measure, used Weather Watch moisture barrier and covered the whole shebang with it. And again... thanks for the video... very informative.
I would have done slightly different, using either step and counter flashing as well as tucking ears behind counter front to back and also wrap over.. but I watched til the end. Geocel is the shit and you are too for posting a mistake. That is character and you are the guy who would make it right.
thanks for all the tips, i think it leaked kuz the sidewall flashing didnt go over the shingle on the bottom. a 1/2" hem wouldnt hurt on the flat part of the sidewall either. thats a nice finger brake. you were a framer, metal guy and shingler in one video. good job. that geocel is good i buy it by the case
Not sure how many real metal roofing pros have left true comments on this video but I saw at least 10 mistakes but I'm not here to hate just wanna point out a few things,first off you left your felt paper short n left wood exposed then I noticed you shingled completely over your front metal pan n that's a rookie mistake,then your ridge cap is ran wrong and nailed incorrect as well but you got the basics but just need to be a more detailed n knowledgeable about metal and shingles
I have seen almost all of your videos and I check several times a week to see if there is a new one. I did learn a lot here. Would have loved to seen how you did the flashing bends around the chimney corners. I am sure it was nothing difficult, tricky, or hard...just would have been nice to see that. No complaints intended. Thanks for making the time to record your work and share your experiences.
Sorry I don't get the videos out just no enough time right now hope to get more soon. I did have a clip I was going to use showing the bends, but I didn't know if anyone would watch a hour video LOL. I guess I should have tried it. Thanks for the comment I always try to get better.
as to rolling off a roof i suppose you could use a roofers safety harness and still go with gloves. that said this was a highly detailed and informative video. thank you.
I just want to say thanks for the informative video. Also, I can promise gloves won't make you fall off the roof. 😀. They WILL keep the fiberglass from the shingles out of your skin though.
I am from UK and having watched many videos from U.S.A. Can anybody tell me why instead of tiles/slates as used in UK,. all I see in videos is what looks like squares of felt instead of tiles?
I think it is a resource difference. There is slate in the states but it is very expensive and lots of carpenters and contractors don’t use it and don’t know how to lay it. More than anything I think it’s just a culture difference I know in the UK y’all use lead for flashing in the states we use galvanize steel, copper, or aluminum. Climate has a lot to do with it too I know in the UK y’all are used to a lot of snow and rain. We are not used to a lot of heat and storms. Shingles is what we use a combination of fiberglass felt mix with asphalt. They hold up better and hotter climates normally and are easy to repair. We get a lot of tornadoes and hail storms that would break slate. So for something that’s incredibly expensive and hard to repair is no good for around here. Hope that answers your question.
Also, the slate you use in the UK, and the clay tiles the Spanish (and other Latin American cultures) use is pretty heavy. Most roofs in the United States are built light and would not support those weights.
I like the longer length videos. It can be frustrating when you forget something or are in an unfamiliar area and are forced to use a new product, always seems to bite you.
I don't mind the length -- I'd rather have the detail! Though, I will say that my legs hurt just thinking about how many times you had to go up and down your ladder! :-)
As a residential general contractor I HATE home owner expand-a-foam repairs. For the life of me I cant figure out how or why people think the canned foam is an acceptable repair for roof leaks, facia rot etc.
How did those shoes feel on that roof? I have to make some intensive work on my roof soon and my hikers make me feel nervous up there. Those shoes look to have a very flat bottom surface.
Dean no I'm a machinist & welder by trade. I work on tractors and farm implements, hydraulic cylinders, and heavy industrial Equipment. I worked construction for a few years, and we did everything from trapping squirrels to making trim. You learn a few things here and there. Thanks for the comment.
Tips: To remove shingles with a flat bar, hold it claw side up, inset the bar under the shingle and "tap" it with a hammer along the tar line. That's the best way to not break the shingles. As for why the shingles were staggered in reverse over the chimney, the ran a course passing it so that they could run a row going up to meet it in order to keep the continuation of the roof's lines consistent; aka racking vs stacking. Old school technique. 🙂
brans all in all I had about 200-275$ in material. I think I had 16 hours in the job, but I had problems. Working by yourself takes 3 times longer than if you had help. I think with good help (just one other person) you could get it all done in 8 hours (not cutting corners) so with help 40$ an hour 40*8=320+275=595 plus tax, and Service call (if you have one trailers don't move themselves) your looking around 720-750$ and that is not a bad price.
no, I'm talking about water running horizontally off of that continuous piece of sidewall flashing you made. it may take awhile, especially if you kept your nails away from the chimney a good ways, but that will leak at some point. Do some research on step flashing, because that's what you should have used.
I do know step flashing is the more traditional than continuous, but I've ran both, and I don't see where one is better than the other as far as leaking. If done right they will last as long as the roof. I understand that water can get up under the shingle on the continuous, but I have never had to go back into any chimney I have flashed.
Good intentions, but you really shouldn't call out bad work that's one of the worst flashing jobs I've ever seen. You caused yourself a ton of extra work.
Another NOT WELL done roof he installed the wrong flashing that goes on the sidewall of the chimney, The flashing that's supposed to be used is called J FLASHING ALSO CALLED SIDEWALL FLASHING IT HAS A LITTLE LIP TO STOP WATER FROM GOING UNDER THE SHINGLES Also when you cut a groove for counter for your flashing you buy a special flashing called counter flashing it has a lip that locks into the groove the way he has it. It doesn't lock into the groove
I flash about 5 to 8 chimneys week on average. If you are watching this video as a reference on how it should be done, don't. Nice guy and all, but that whole job should have taken about 3 hours and looked way better. His techniques are bad, his metal work is bad. He doesn't know how to frame. That saddle he bumble fingers framed is at most a 3 minute job. This guy has not been properly trained. He tried hard and is probably a nice guy with great intentions. But not the one to learn from.
A lot wrong with this one even why it's leaking. It would've leaked more than those 2 spots with a hose on the back and that sealant used everywhere the flashing tucks into the brick. But I use Dewalt cordless Power tools and cut the 2x4s on the roof really quick. Step flashing is better easier. And they make counter flashing that has out bent top lip, use hammer in masonary anchors and flash mate or Geocel. Mulehide jts1 is just as good sealant. And the base flashing should have a hem on sides under shingles and seal those 2 w/ butyl as well. BTW that lexel I use for metal only and behind butyl and it's CLEAR! I think it was leaking because those front corners folded around creates a hole at the bottom. Leave a half in over hang on the side flashing over the apron and it will never leak, same for the back pieces coming down the cricket.
step flashing is for all side walls using a one piece flashing on a side wall is NFG!! and I say this with respect learn from your mistakes the only time I use silicone on my roofs are to seal rubber on pipe flange if you need silicone n Karnak as part of your flashing try using a bigger gauge flashing cuz I learned when using aluminum foil flashing it's impossible to wrap your corners n not have big holes! when I started using proper mill finish aluminum as my step n counter flashing my corners were wrapped with no voids!!
Well I find the excuse that the lexel failed bogus n a bs excuse from a rookie,that lexel wasn't even set up log enough for u to say it was the caulk so in other words u dont know how to flash, continues aluminum used instead of step was or of ur problems along with quit a few more things but u get an f for effort
This is wrong. WRONG WRONG WRONG. IVE BE ROOFING FOR 11 YEARS. YOU DO NOT LAY THE ARCHITECTURAL SHINGLE, THE WAY THIS MAN IN THIS VIDEO HAS THEM READY TO PUT BACK IN.
Hack job. Your problem is you don't know what your doing. You ever hear of step flashing. If your relying on caulking you shouldn't be roofing. That chimney should be rebuilt
@@FALLONMICHAEL1022 The ideology behind just using a backflash is that the less seems you have less complicated the flashing details are the easier it will be to keep the back of that chimney water type. The back of the chimney is without a doubt by far the more important part of any chimney Flash. When a chimney is that small and that close to a Ridgeline there's not that much water flow or snow flow to divert. So a cricket just isn't necessary. If you want to put a metal backsplash like I do and then put some small metal diverters that just divert some of the water around you could do that. But you don't need to build a cricket behind that chimney! Now if that chimney were twice that wide and towards the bottom of the roof, absolutely! you need a cricket behind that. Think about it!
Tracy J. Scott I can agree to disagree I suppose I see what you saying but I just bout a house a few months back and the chimney flashing is done for so I’m about to redo it and there is already a cricket behind it and it’s around the same size as the one in the video and that close to the ridge. I thibk I’ll leave it I just believe that with it there it has to divert more water no matter how close or far away from the ridge it is better than just a backsplash but one thing I will do different from the video is step flash the sides instead of a single Peice and then pop rivet the counter flashing so that it’s nice and secure and may finish the corners a lil differently and will also be using aluminum. Not sure exactly what he used but it looked galvanized just not a fan thanks for you input maybe I’ll make a video to who knows gotta what for this weather to break here in Ohio first never know what it’s gonna do from one day to the next!
Very good video and I like the honesty about mistakes. However, I am a little concerned that the repair is dependent upon the reliability of a sealant over time. I mean, most roofs last 25 years and there is not too many sealants that will last that long as far as being completely watertight. My understanding is that the sealants are simply to hold the flashing down and that the flashing does all of the real waterproofing. With that said I understand that this is an old chimney so it probably needed a good masonry recoat at the very least to make it watertight all on it’s own. I guess what I’m saying is that viewers should lniw that they should NEVER depend on any sealant to be the primary guard against water leaks since it defeats the concept of doing it correctly with flashing. A good sealant can hold flashing in place for decades but it’s waterproofing capability will give out long before then. Anyway, I realize you know your stuff but I just thought I should point it up for other viewers… just in case they took home the wrong message accidentally.
thanks for all the tips, i think it leaked kuz the sidewall flashing didnt go over the shingle on the bottom. a 1/2" hem wouldnt hurt on the flat part of the sidewall either. thats a nice finger brake. you were a framer, metal guy and shingler in one video. good job. that geocel is good i buy it by the case
As we head along through the 21st century and suffer the lack of trades training and shop class, etc. there are a lot of guys who don't know how to do this stuff. Dads and granddads used to show sons and grandsons how to fix stuff. Not so much nowadays.
What you are doing here is fantastic.
Thanks for your careful presentation and insights.
I am very much self-taught on home repair and maintenance and this is way better than the old days when I would head down to the library on Saturdays to consult whatever books they had.
Keep 'em coming.
BTW - that tip on caulk that really does the job - big thanks there too. Good tools and good materials are part of the "secret".
Your video helped me understand what needs to be done to fix the same problem I am having with a leak at the back of my chimney. Your detailed explanation will very helpful to me when I discuss the repair with the roofer. Thank you
Right amount of detail, showing mistakes and product issues just makes it better.
A shovel tho......fucking remedial
Love to see roofers that take their quality seriously. Great choice on the geocel, it's all I use. Thanks for a humble and informative video.
Lololololololol. He is laying the shingles wrong
You are very honest person to show mistakes and everything you are amazing!!! Congrats
i complain about bad videos.... For a good ole boy, your work, integrity, quality and clarity of explaining....
you did your parents proud
A very honest video. Thanks for showing the leak from within the attic space at the end of the work, and how you fixed it.
I have a box chimney to flash so I was hitting up some ideas. The others I seen just to quick, your teaching and method was very helpful and I actually enjoyed the presentation from start to finish. Thank you, as I feel a bit more confident to take on the challenge.
Drag the air hose up there and blast all of the dust out of the grooves in the masonry. After dry fitting the flashing, put it out and apply a bead of masonry rated caulking into the groove. Then a thin bead on the edge of the flashing. Both sides. Then install the flashing into the groove. Then when it's all done, a final bead where the masonry meets the flashing. On the carpentry, always staple some roofing felt to the wood where it is going to touch the masonry.
Good stuff. Thanks for the comment.
I am getting ready to have my roof done. Years ago a "cricket" was installed. I needed to know what it was and if they will do a good job when roofing. Thank you for informative video.
nice video. but, i always thought you should use step flashing on the rake side of the chimney. how do you keep the water from flowing down the flashing and under the edge of the shingles?
The one piece side metal will leak. Ask a roofer the difference between tile pan (tile roofs) and step flashing (shingle roofs). COUNTER FLASHING RECOMMEND ON ALL 4 SIDES!
God bless you for showing all the details. It's a tough newbie project, but videos like this make it possible
Great video, I liked seeing your board angle/length measuring methods especially 👍🏻
that's good that if you make a mistake you accept it and fix it.. you are a good roofer.. next time use the qualking from the roofing supply
I like to run a piece of flashing above the chimney flashing in a seam of the brick. Fold it down so it covers the joint between the existing flashing and the chimney. Trim the bottom edge so it follows the roof line, leaving only an inch or so of the roof flashing visible. This creates a virtually foolproof overlap, so the roof/chimney joint cannot leak. Also, the flashing you fit in the roof valleys didn't have a turned up edge along the sides. Without this edge, water can simply run off the sides and under the shingles. Make an edge, only about 1/8"-1/4" is fine, and allow the end of the flashing to exit out onto a shingle or gutter, so the water will stay in the flashing "valley" and be carried away.
i don't mind long videos because I'm all about the details. I make my vids as long as necessary to show how to get the job done right. That leak sucked after all that work you did, i felt your pain! I like to apply roofing sealant underneath every corner of the flashing, where ever the flashing lays on top of the other piece. I'm not a roofer but have 18 years in the remodeling business. Yes i have aches and pains!
agree i also try to add seal under or butyl tapes under the flashings as installed. happen to really enjoy his longer video ...totally interesting details as well. btw many of the Amish roofers in this area use that sealant..they seem to have good experiences with it. i specifically discussed the sealant with them.
still you like what works on the job.
that house had a really rough roof deck.
I use a counter flashing and on top of the counter flashing has a kick out Groove to hold caulking it is the best method I found and I've been Roofing 33 years
Nice job, I like the way you checked for leaks a lot of guys would have caulked and rolled out!👍
always step flash side walls one piece flashingis for the base n the back
I was going to say the same. A single piece water could theoretically get back under it. With step if water gets under one flashing then its on top of a shingle and so on and so forth.
To find that roof angle, it's a lot faster and easier to just use a bevel square. Place the bevel square on top of your level you showed in the beginning of your video, then adjust the blade to the exact angle of the roof and tighten the wingnut on the bevel square. No need for complicated calculations. This method is foolproof and fast.
I’m a fool, and foolproof is the kind of tip I need. I wasn’t sure what a bevel square was, but as I read your comments I understood what the tool is. I’ve seen them before.
I love watching your videos... very informative and easy to follow for a common man like me. Just like the last commenter said, you have a great voice, and you are patient enough to explain all the little things that your viewers find interesting or may not have understood. Keep up the great work! I would love to hear a "As always, take care, and God bless" at the closing of your video with you looking at the camera... that is what originally got me to subscribe :)
Oh wow thank you. That truly means a lot. I'll be sure to say that in my next video.
Personally I have had great luck with Lexel. it does dry but stays very flexible for years....that is what makes it so good, in my opinion. I just ran some quarter inch beads on my aluminum truck cap to stop a leak and not 5 minutes after i was done it rained as hard as I have ever seen it...the Lexel survived perfectly. I even use the stuff the repair tears in my breathable waders.
I'm glad to hear it worked for you. I may have had a bad tube.
Level ,That’s stuff is garbage !
You're one of my favorite You Tubers! The content and delivery are like it's a couple of guys on a job. One knows how, that's you, and one who doesn't, that's me. I always pick up something from your uploads. Thanks for the effort!
Haha thanks
You can see daylight through those corners
.when cutting a tri-angle piece of plywood...just measure 2 sides....the angle will take care of itself..00.02
No expert here... but I had several cartridges of Roofers Choice Plastic Roof Cement (I think it is just tar in a tube) left over. So I used that to seal the flashing an any gaps I found. No leaks that I know of, but I did not go into the attic to find out. I live here... so if it leaks... I will know it soon enough. Otherwise, excellent video. Oh yeah, I wasn't tying into a brick chimney, so I used the framing of the chimney to support the cricket rafter on one end and miter cut the other end to match roof slope. Since I was working with bare plywood (roof, chimney, and cricket), I compound cut the plywood for the cricket roof(?) and just deck screwed them in place. Roof cemented all edges, and then for good measure, used Weather Watch moisture barrier and covered the whole shebang with it. And again... thanks for the video... very informative.
very good job!! i like the fact you take pride in your work and do it right whether you have to go over it and get it done right. cheers from canada!!
I would have done slightly different, using either step and counter flashing as well as tucking ears behind counter front to back and also wrap over.. but I watched til the end. Geocel is the shit and you are too for posting a mistake. That is character and you are the guy who would make it right.
thanks for all the tips, i think it leaked kuz the sidewall flashing didnt go over the shingle on the bottom. a 1/2" hem wouldnt hurt on the flat part of the sidewall either. thats a nice finger brake. you were a framer, metal guy and shingler in one video. good job. that geocel is good i buy it by the case
Not sure how many real metal roofing pros have left true comments on this video but I saw at least 10 mistakes but I'm not here to hate just wanna point out a few things,first off you left your felt paper short n left wood exposed then I noticed you shingled completely over your front metal pan n that's a rookie mistake,then your ridge cap is ran wrong and nailed incorrect as well but you got the basics but just need to be a more detailed n knowledgeable about metal and shingles
Excellent video. Appreciate the detail. Very clear video. Lucked out as I have a 6/12 slope, so no changes.
I have seen almost all of your videos and I check several times a week to see if there is a new one. I did learn a lot here. Would have loved to seen how you did the flashing bends around the chimney corners. I am sure it was nothing difficult, tricky, or hard...just would have been nice to see that. No complaints intended. Thanks for making the time to record your work and share your experiences.
Sorry I don't get the videos out just no enough time right now hope to get more soon. I did have a clip I was going to use showing the bends, but I didn't know if anyone would watch a hour video LOL. I guess I should have tried it. Thanks for the comment I always try to get better.
Dude, your a hero among men. Keep it up!
This video was extremely helpful! Thank you!
Being long-winded is fine as long as you make sense. I enjoyed the video - wish it was longer.
as to rolling off a roof i suppose you could use a roofers safety harness and still go with gloves.
that said this was a highly detailed and informative video.
thank you.
What’s the problem with leaving all of those tiles and just building the cricket over those?
I used that for interior sealing of tops in bath vanities, it's excellent for that. for roofing sealing on chimney flashing I use Quad or solar seal.
Great video. It's as long as it needs to be a tutorial, otherwise it is just look at what I can do.
I like long videos. You've got a lot to teach, and I've got a lot to learn!
You know that you can make a Long 6 on 12 pitch with just your speed square, without having to use both squares to mark your "ridge"
I just want to say thanks for the informative video. Also, I can promise gloves won't make you fall off the roof. 😀. They WILL keep the fiberglass from the shingles out of your skin though.
Well I din't scratch my head..but I will more than likely watch this 5000 times till I get it. Take care.
Using soakers and cover flashing on the sides would have meant not having to use all that silicone wouldnt it?
Not as much, but you still have to use something. Portland cement is a good choice.
I just saw daylight through a little hole, did you see it?
I am from UK and having watched many videos from U.S.A. Can anybody tell me why instead of tiles/slates as used in UK,. all I see in videos is what looks like squares of felt instead of tiles?
I think it is a resource difference. There is slate in the states but it is very expensive and lots of carpenters and contractors don’t use it and don’t know how to lay it. More than anything I think it’s just a culture difference I know in the UK y’all use lead for flashing in the states we use galvanize steel, copper, or aluminum. Climate has a lot to do with it too I know in the UK y’all are used to a lot of snow and rain. We are not used to a lot of heat and storms. Shingles is what we use a combination of fiberglass felt mix with asphalt. They hold up better and hotter climates normally and are easy to repair. We get a lot of tornadoes and hail storms that would break slate. So for something that’s incredibly expensive and hard to repair is no good for around here. Hope that answers your question.
@@EEJester1586 Thank You, yes, very interesting
Also, the slate you use in the UK, and the clay tiles the Spanish (and other Latin American cultures) use is pretty heavy. Most roofs in the United States are built light and would not support those weights.
No step flashing?I would think that would be what's causing the leak and not a defective caulk product.Saddle framing was helpful thank you
Excellent video! Details I haven’t seen in anyone else’s videos.
Thanks hope it helped.
like the new long videos man. keep up the good work. and if you trust a product . stick by it. good advice
Great work man 👍🏻
I like the longer length videos. It can be frustrating when you forget something or are in an unfamiliar area and are forced to use a new product, always seems to bite you.
I need a cricket built like that on my chimney but I'd be surprised if I could find anyone that what do quality work like this on my 10-12 roof
You are one talented guy!
Like what you did and your video big thumbs up
I don't mind the length -- I'd rather have the detail! Though, I will say that my legs hurt just thinking about how many times you had to go up and down your ladder! :-)
I'd hire you in a Mississippi minute!
As a residential general contractor I HATE home owner expand-a-foam repairs. For the life of me I cant figure out how or why people think the canned foam is an acceptable repair for roof leaks, facia rot etc.
At 24:40 you start working on the break. Which model is that? It looks like a nice heavy duty small break. Thanks.
Brian D thanks it is 48" Enco not the best break, but for the money it's good.
Had a saddle installed this past Friday.
Almost looked like you knew what you were doin until you started roofing
How did those shoes feel on that roof? I have to make some intensive work on my roof soon and my hikers make me feel nervous up there. Those shoes look to have a very flat bottom surface.
Oh nvm, I just had to watch the video 2 more minutes and you answered my question. Whoops.
Its all good.
Great video, very informative for me.
Great video, thanks for uploading. What is your actual profession? I see you know how to do pretty much anything so i was just wondering. Thanks.
Dean no I'm a machinist & welder by trade. I work on tractors and farm implements, hydraulic cylinders, and heavy industrial Equipment. I worked construction for a few years, and we did everything from trapping squirrels to making trim. You learn a few things here and there. Thanks for the comment.
That ridge cap tie in @ 36:14 and then goes to talk about people needing to be shot
Wasn’t my best tie in, but it didn’t leak. Still doesn’t leak.
what's wrong with it
@@redsresearchnothing that I’d complain about.
The work “repair” in the attic… he is right - it was awful
love the long videos. I learned a ton from this one.
Mind if I ask what state you're in? Thanks for sharing another good video
Bo Haggin Mississippi thanks for watching.
You cut your rafter pieces odd to me. I don't rip anything down, I use the whole 2x4. good job though. I would have loved to cut for ya.
Does this guy sound like Elvis or not?
the longer video was fine. good build buddy
Valley needs to extent past edges of chimney
Tips:
To remove shingles with a flat bar, hold it claw side up, inset the bar under the shingle and "tap" it with a hammer along the tar line. That's the best way to not break the shingles. As for why the shingles were staggered in reverse over the chimney, the ran a course passing it so that they could run a row going up to meet it in order to keep the continuation of the roof's lines consistent; aka racking vs stacking. Old school technique. 🙂
Very good, I learned a lot
What did that job cost in total
Well done, ... Thanks for the video.
Nice job!
That looks exactly like the mess i just had to clean off our house...
great video man, around how much would u charge for a job like that?
brans all in all I had about 200-275$ in material. I think I had 16 hours in the job, but I had problems. Working by yourself takes 3 times longer than if you had help. I think with good help (just one other person) you could get it all done in 8 hours (not cutting corners) so with help 40$ an hour 40*8=320+275=595 plus tax, and Service call (if you have one trailers don't move themselves) your looking around 720-750$ and that is not a bad price.
wouldn't Bula Rubber Tape work better
great, informative video
Did it stop the leak?
Jack Jones oh yeah.
That sidewall's gonna leak pal. Step flashing, perhaps you've heard of it?...
Are you talking about leaking through the brick?
no, I'm talking about water running horizontally off of that continuous piece of sidewall flashing you made. it may take awhile, especially if you kept your nails away from the chimney a good ways, but that will leak at some point. Do some research on step flashing, because that's what you should have used.
I do know step flashing is the more traditional than continuous, but I've ran both, and I don't see where one is better than the other as far as leaking. If done right they will last as long as the roof. I understand that water can get up under the shingle on the continuous, but I have never had to go back into any chimney I have flashed.
Good job👍
longer videos definitely
it will only leak when it rains.
Sounds like Blake Shelton talking
Good intentions, but you really shouldn't call out bad work that's one of the worst flashing jobs I've ever seen. You caused yourself a ton of extra work.
Gary Mohler thanks for the left handed compliment. Sorry if my way doesn’t please you.
I am not good with silicone. Kind of looks gorilla, UGLY but it seems to seal. LOL. Enjoyed the video Thanks for sharing.
22 1/2 degrees for 6/12
other great video
Good
Another NOT WELL done roof
he installed the wrong flashing that goes on the sidewall of the chimney, The flashing that's supposed to be used is called J FLASHING ALSO CALLED SIDEWALL FLASHING IT HAS A LITTLE LIP TO STOP WATER FROM GOING UNDER THE SHINGLES
Also when you cut a groove for counter for your flashing you buy a special flashing called counter flashing it has a lip that locks into the groove the way he has it. It doesn't lock into the groove
Make your videos long enough to explain what you are doing. It doesn’t matter if it’s 10, 20, or 30. Thanks.
I flash about 5 to 8 chimneys week on average. If you are watching this video as a reference on how it should be done, don't. Nice guy and all, but that whole job should have taken about 3 hours and looked way better. His techniques are bad, his metal work is bad. He doesn't know how to frame.
That saddle he bumble fingers framed is at most a 3 minute job. This guy has not been properly trained. He tried hard and is probably a nice guy with great intentions. But not the one to learn from.
Daniel k I couldn't agree more. I've been a professional roofer since 1980. It's repairs done like this that keeps me in business! :)
A lot wrong with this one even why it's leaking. It would've leaked more than those 2 spots with a hose on the back and that sealant used everywhere the flashing tucks into the brick. But I use Dewalt cordless Power tools and cut the 2x4s on the roof really quick. Step flashing is better easier. And they make counter flashing that has out bent top lip, use hammer in masonary anchors and flash mate or Geocel. Mulehide jts1 is just as good sealant. And the base flashing should have a hem on sides under shingles and seal those 2 w/ butyl as well. BTW that lexel I use for metal only and behind butyl and it's CLEAR! I think it was leaking because those front corners folded around creates a hole at the bottom. Leave a half in over hang on the side flashing over the apron and it will never leak, same for the back pieces coming down the cricket.
step flashing is for all side walls using a one piece flashing on a side wall is NFG!! and I say this with respect learn from your mistakes the only time I use silicone on my roofs are to seal rubber on pipe flange if you need silicone n Karnak as part of your flashing try using a bigger gauge flashing cuz I learned when using aluminum foil flashing it's impossible to wrap your corners n not have big holes! when I started using proper mill finish aluminum as my step n counter flashing my corners were wrapped with no voids!!
Well I find the excuse that the lexel failed bogus n a bs excuse from a rookie,that lexel wasn't even set up log enough for u to say it was the caulk so in other words u dont know how to flash, continues aluminum used instead of step was or of ur problems along with quit a few more things but u get an f for effort
This is wrong. WRONG WRONG WRONG. IVE BE ROOFING FOR 11 YEARS. YOU DO NOT LAY THE ARCHITECTURAL SHINGLE, THE WAY THIS MAN IN THIS VIDEO HAS THEM READY TO PUT BACK IN.
OMG😱
Hack job. Your problem is you don't know what your doing. You ever hear of step flashing. If your relying on caulking you shouldn't be roofing. That chimney should be rebuilt
Haha
This is BS! NO chimney with FOUR courses of shingles behind it needs a cricket. It just needs a good back flash. Total waste of time!
Apparently you don’t live in the south. We got more than water to keep out.
@@EEJester1586 You don't need to cricket on that chimney Period!
Cricket needed and even if not it will definitely divert more water and less chances of water damning so why not smh!
@@FALLONMICHAEL1022 The ideology behind just using a backflash is that the less seems you have less complicated the flashing details are the easier it will be to keep the back of that chimney water type. The back of the chimney is without a doubt by far the more important part of any chimney Flash. When a chimney is that small and that close to a Ridgeline there's not that much water flow or snow flow to divert. So a cricket just isn't necessary. If you want to put a metal backsplash like I do and then put some small metal diverters that just divert some of the water around you could do that. But you don't need to build a cricket behind that chimney! Now if that chimney were twice that wide and towards the bottom of the roof, absolutely! you need a cricket behind that. Think about it!
Tracy J. Scott I can agree to disagree I suppose I see what you saying but I just bout a house a few months back and the chimney flashing is done for so I’m about to redo it and there is already a cricket behind it and it’s around the same size as the one in the video and that close to the ridge. I thibk I’ll leave it I just believe that with it there it has to divert more water no matter how close or far away from the ridge it is better than just a backsplash but one thing I will do different from the video is step flash the sides instead of a single Peice and then pop rivet the counter flashing so that it’s nice and secure and may finish the corners a lil differently and will also be using aluminum. Not sure exactly what he used but it looked galvanized just not a fan thanks for you input maybe I’ll make a video to who knows gotta what for this weather to break here in Ohio first never know what it’s gonna do from one day to the next!
Very good video and I like the honesty about mistakes. However, I am a little concerned that the repair is dependent upon the reliability of a sealant over time. I mean, most roofs last 25 years and there is not too many sealants that will last that long as far as being completely watertight. My understanding is that the sealants are simply to hold the flashing down and that the flashing does all of the real waterproofing. With that said I understand that this is an old chimney so it probably needed a good masonry recoat at the very least to make it watertight all on it’s own. I guess what I’m saying is that viewers should lniw that they should NEVER depend on any sealant to be the primary guard against water leaks since it defeats the concept of doing it correctly with flashing. A good sealant can hold flashing in place for decades but it’s waterproofing capability will give out long before then. Anyway, I realize you know your stuff but I just thought I should point it up for other viewers… just in case they took home the wrong message accidentally.
thanks for all the tips, i think it leaked kuz the sidewall flashing didnt go over the shingle on the bottom. a 1/2" hem wouldnt hurt on the flat part of the sidewall either. thats a nice finger brake. you were a framer, metal guy and shingler in one video. good job. that geocel is good i buy it by the case