Flashing a Framed Chimney w/a Cricket
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- Опубликовано: 17 апр 2017
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A metal cap keeps water out of vulnerable framing connections
Chimneys in roofs are like wall sections that trap water and inject it into the framing. In order to direct water out of the connection, make a cricket to slope away. The height depends on roof pitch, but at least a foot is probably needed.
Step by step:
Frame the little roof with 2x4s and sheath it.
Below the chimney, use peel and stick to flash the roof to wall joints, making sure to overlap upper pieces over lower pieces.
Cover the cricket with peel and stick membrane, too.
Now the roofing underlayment of felt paper can be installed.
Fold the underlayment up the chimney wall, higher than the step flashing will be.
And continue with the underlayment.
As you work your way up the roof, cut the shingle course around the lower edge of the chimney.
Lay a bead of roofing sealant on the shingle along the front edge of the chimney, and another little bead at the lower corner, where two flashings will overlap.
Bed the base flashing into the big bead and Overlap the lower piece of step flashing.
Shingle over the step flashing and continue to weave the step flashing and shingles to the upper edge of the chimney.
The top piece of step flashing folds around the chimney. You can cover the cricket with shingles if you want to, but a really nice way to go is 20 gauge metal cricket cover.
The cut corners are covered with patches soldered into place.
If you go that route, install the cricket cover and get back to work.
The lower edge overlaps the shingle and wraps the corner.
Continue shingling up the cricket valley and over the top.
House wrap can then be installed over the step flashing and siding is installed over that.
Now, the rain will run down the roof, and around the cricket. All of this should keep unwanted water out of your chimney so that there’s no surprises.
-This cricket flashing detail comes from the detail pack of Matt Jackson, The Timber Tailor, a remodeler, master carpenter, and RUclipsr in Rapid City South Dakota
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Хобби
Nice job for a quick overview. Had to laugh at the credits that mentioned someone who refused to help. hahaha
Great way to explain how to do flashing around a chimney. A+
Excellent explanation of the technical details,
Great video, thanks
You're welcome!
Great video well explained. Thanks.
Great video.
Never had a chance to install a cricket cover. But that ish looks dope af. Should link a "how to" on making one of those.
Good explanation - well done from England. Do you use lead flashing, as is the norm here, or is it just too heavy for wooden structures?
Thank you, falfield. Lead flashing is common in some parts of the country, not so much in others.
Pwhat kind of metal do you use to sauder?
Can you please tel me is this taken in estimate as FT or Sqft?
Thanks
How come the apron isn’t soldered to the first step flashing
because a roll of peel and stick can replace a couple hours of work and real skills needed to do a proper lasting job!
I don't love flashing plans that rely on peel and stick as we really do know how this stuff is going to last! I also don't agree with calk under the down roof flashing. The only way that calk would be tested it would be stoping water from flowing down hill. I guess the days of real roofing craft are gone forever. As a great flashing plan can be done without a single drop of calk or adhesive. Proper dry set materials will last for ever!
I don't know about that. I've shot video of reroofs where we exposed 25 year old peel and stick that was f*!#king impossible to pull off the roof deck.
Send a detail you like and we'll run it up the flagpole.
refused to help lol in credits
Minute 2:10 what does it mean "refused to help"
lol
the first step flashing shouldnt be cut and bent around, water will just enter than pinhole when the caulk gives away. Never rely on caulking. And when you get to the cricket it should be extended a few inches aswell as there will be a ton of rainwater hitting that spot,
Manufacturer specifications say to cut the metal and wrap it just like he did.
@@bowold3976 ask any good reputable roofer who isnt a hack and they would say thats false. Unless its a soldered joint then having a pinhole there isnt the way to do it. Like with a bathtub. Are they made up of multiple pieces and then at the joints caulked? Think before you say something as youre obviously not a roofer or do any metalwork that sheds water.
I can send you the chapter and page where it states this straight from the manufacturers installation guide itself. I didnt pull this out of my ass and say it because i felt like i was right. I didnt even say i claim to beleive or agree with it simply stated what the book says.
Perhaps the book you use and reference says differently than mine does.
@@bowold3976 i dont go off a book. I go whats by code in bc. RCABC. Look it up. Youre implying the way i do it and many many others who do it the same way isnt proper. The only way that method would work would if it was a soldered corner.
No one does this properly these roofers just want to lay shingles and that’s it . Brutal roofers where I live
That is not right
Call me I can do better job than this virtual explanation
I mean, I guess I'd like to hear what is not right about it.
Can you go into detail?