How to Install Brick Chimney Flashing and Counter Flashing Step by Step
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- Опубликовано: 20 апр 2021
- RoofCo is a roofing and solar company committed to providing a transparent look at how to do all things roofing! Our goal is to equip homeowners with all the information they need to either make their own repairs or be armed with all the appropriate information to hire the best contractor for their project.
In this video we show the DIY homeowner our step by step guide to property installing 3 layers of protection when flashing brick chimney.
Step 1: Remove shingles, and old flashing. Clean brick surface and any old caulking residue.
Step 2. Install Ice/Water Shield membrane on to roof decking and up onto face of brick 3"
Step 3: Install new aluminum step flashing and shingles
Step 4: Grind mortar joints in chimney to properly set new aluminum counter flashing.
Step 5: Install new custom bent aluminum counter flashing and fasten with masonry nails.
Step 6: Seal joints with Tremco Vulkem Polyurethane Sealant to match.
If you find value in this video please be sure like the video and subscribe to our channel. If there are other roofing or solar questions you have please drop a comment below and we will be happy to provide a video for you.
Thank you and be safe! 
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That has to be the best flashing that I have ever seen! And I was in the building industry for 55 years.
Lol
No one in my area would take 5% of the effort you did. That is a work of art.
Agreed. Same thing here. So much laziness.
Pre-caulk the masonry joint and set the metal into it before top caulk.
Great feedback. Thank you for sharing!
Monetize this comment
I haven't seen Vulkem since i worked for a big company in Blue Ash Ohio, probably 30 years ago,
old dude who got me started doing metal work told me he used a little bit of it on some minor leaks in his boat haha. Dude was a beast, he'd line 200 foot of box gutter a day with just a green bean, like i was at the time, about 34 years ago.
I flash my chimneys outta galvanized sheet metal and solder all my seams, that's just the way i was taught to do it, but I've surely flashed many chimneys with coil stock aluminum. Chimney is easy enough to counter flash, if i have a long run of counter on a longer brick wall, I'll measure and mark the bottom and the top however many inches i want my counters, but not only do i do that with a union counter, but with my step counters as well, chalk that line, then take the mortar joints out from the chalkline back, your counter will all be the exact same size and look perfectly uniform. Of course with modern saw blades, diamond tip, easy enough to cut a line straight thru the bricks to create that channel for Union Counter, all comes down to customers preference for me, tho there are times when one will work better than the other as well, every situation is different really, just depends on what's called for in any given set of circumstances.
Use copper,fold corners on step flashing. Install counter flashing with appropriate folds,solder corners. No nails no interlocking pieces. Lasts longer than the roof will
This is exactly what I need to do. Thank you
Good explanation of how it all works. I have seen an accordion shaped piece that wraps the corners, about 3-4” on each side. It’s a one piece flashing with no seams in it.
Nicely done. Well-paced. Informative. Clearly expressed.
Thank you sir. If we can do anything to help, please let us know. Enjoy the day.
Wow. I've watched a few of these and your mechanical joints are outstanding.
Appreciate it sir. We are planning to make a video demonstrating the process of making the metal soon.
I missed the part of the dog tooth flashing up the side of the chimney?
Great demo, guys...
the individual counter flashing was just installed off camera and did not show how it ties to the other components?? That is a very important step and something I really wanted to see.
Good job detailing the process. What about a roof cricket/saddle at the upper slope of the chimney though. I think that's a better resolution.
Agreed. We always install a cricket if the rear of the chimney is over 36" inches wide, vs. a flashing pan,
Wow. I hope my roofer has same level of expertise like you.
As the counter flashing steps down the chimney, how much overlap is there with the next one up? Do the stepped counter flashing interlock with each other?
All these comments saying it’s a good job, he literally put a nail almost directly in the corner of his first piece of flashing when he nailed down that first shingle, the appropriate way would have been to put a nail in the nail strip on the left of the shingle and roof tar the other side underneath the shingle. His roof will leak over time 😊
Your counter flashing is to close to the roof brother. You want at least a half an inch from the roof so it doesn't suck water up behind it. Also when you are doing ice and water start from the bottom and work your way up so it's properly waterproofed. And another tip we do on counter flashing, instead of creating an "L" lip on the counter create a "V" shape and use a rubber mallet to tap it in. It will fit itself in without using nails and better for waterproofing. Good video 🤙
Really like the idea and feedback. Much appreciated. We will definitely give it a go and report back. Thanks.
That is how we plug the top of the counter flashing too with the semi open hem also we dont step sides we cut evenly up the sides.
Great demonstration and a nice job. Do you have any videos on flashing a stone chimney to a roof?
That looks nice.
Thank you. Appreciated.
If you want to be 100% sure then trowel in a 3-4" swath of roof cement around the lower edge of the brick where chimney meets roof deck. Set you're ice shield into the roof cement and press with trowel you will be covering yourself if chimney develops joint cracks.
Good idea. We have recently begun caulking between the step flashing and brick and also adding flashing tape to the step flashing, before installing the counter flashing. Do you recommend any specific type of roofing cement?
@@roofcoroofingexperts7836 I started roofing in 1971 and I'm 2nd generation roofer with 3 other brothers. I convinced my father in 1979 to start using ice shield and roof cement around chimneys mostly due to our climate in the Cleveland, Ohio area. Most roof cement will work fine but I have used mostly Karnak products. Regular or Ultra is fine. We cut all masonry joints and install reglet edge on our flashing metal.
@@roofcoroofingexperts7836 Karnak 155
Nice job. I wished mu roofing contactor did this. I have leak. Can I retrofit this solution with a recent roof install?
Thanks for your comment. Would value input to share with the community. Always looking for new ideas to improve everyday.
Thanks for providing this detailed overview, very helpful. Where is Roofco located?
Appreciated Bob! We are located in Indianapolis Indiana. Please let us know if we can assist in any way.
Nice Jumper Bro! Do you have any videos on building an enclosure to be used as a base for mounting a 40-Watt 1600 CFM Galvanized Black Steel Roof Mount Solar Attic Fan., and how it could be flashed?
below the top piece of counter flashing is that little diagonal actually the top of the top soaker or step flashing? should that not be trimmed to ensure it sits behind the seal of the counter flashing?
Is there anytime that flashing should be nail or bolted into a brick chimney
Nice video! I have a large chimney (I chose to bring whole chimney up, rather than make it smaller at the top, it’s 27’ tall) 9’ wide and 3’ deep, it has 2 fireplaces, one in basement, the other in the family room on the first floor. Basement one has a 48” damper and the other a 42” damper. This was built in 2004. The chimney has a large saddle, 9’ wide at the base. The whole saddle was covered by ice and water shield, including valleys, galvanized step flashing and rather than an aluminum step flashing, a notch was cut into the brick diagonally down and a white aluminum flashing was formed on a brake 😊and caulked. This was changed in 2019 when the roof was replaced (hail damage) and the roofer replaced the whole flashing system. He said it was cheaper than trying to clean and reuse. He did it more like yours, but he used the cutout diagonal hole in the brick. This has been in 4 years with no problems.
Thank you for the comment. You're correct. We commonly see the type of flashing system you described. When done properly, it can also be effective!
Tremendous demonstration!
Appreciated sir!
Hello thanks for the great video. I need to update a cedar shake roof that has poor flashing to begin with and no proper counter flash. Do you have a video for that? Is a cedar roof similar to a shingle roof the way they are constructed?Thanks
Hello and thank you. Unfortunately we do not have any videos for cedar shake as it is not very common in our region. The process is similar; however, generally a copper cricket is used with cedar shake shingles with similar style counter flashing. If you'd like to email photos to us, we'd be happy to review with you. Thank you. hello@roofcoindy.com
Thanks so much. I will get some pictures of it when I go up there. I will be repointing the chimney as well. Will be an interesting adventure up there. Cheers!
This is proper 1 question dont think i trust the sealant im seeing others use mortar you got any vids on that ?
Good morning Taylor, apologies for the delayed reply, we always use Temco's Vulkum Sealant to seal all joints. Please let us know if we can help in any way. Thanks.
My house was built such that the brick veneer was placed on the wooden chimney chase AFTER the roofing shingles were applied. So all step flash is under the brick veneer. Does this method also work on brick veneer over a wooden frame? Thank you
Hello... very meticulous job on the step flashing. 2 Questions: 1: the step flashing is just aluminum and no sticky back, it is just put in place by 1 nail at the extreme corner? 2: the flashing part that is on the chimney; you have a mason nail with the head ONLY holding on to the flashing and then the caulk and nothing else to hold it down to the brick chimney?
Thanks for your questions. 1. we have begun both applying flashing tape over the step flashing in addition to sealing the back of the step flashing with roofing sealant to close any gap. We do not nail the step flashing to the brick. 2. The counter flashing will most typically have one masonry nail installed at the top of the flashing. Next we apply vulkum sealant over the nail while sealing the flashing joints to the brick.
But what if the chimney is made of stone and has very uneven mortar joints and very uneven surfaces?
Wind driven rain hits your black step flashing and runs down and is now under the shingles that abut the chimney. Are you expecting that water to not penetrate the ice and water shield and then drain out under the first course of shingles?
Did u gring out the Verticle Edge install of your flashing?
If it's flat against the Brick u have all the Voids to contend with.
Beautiful Caulk job 😂😂
Nice counter flashing and the detail are good but ut would be nice show us how to cut the counterflashing
We use lead flashing in the uk
Thank you for your video. My chimney is metal with new re-roof. How can I tell that the roofing guy can do the good job around the chimney?
If its not leaking he did a good job.
It would be nice if the camera showed close-ups as the flashing was being installed. It is really impossible to see exactly what's going on with the corner flash when the camera is 10 ft out
Completely agree and we will get a video filmed showing the metal creation process within the next few months to share.
Would it be possible to show the proper way to install a range hood roof vent. I have 2 to do, need it done the right way. Thanks
Would be happy to email step by step photos of the process we use. Please feel free to email us at hello@roofcoindy.com and we will reply with photos.
I thought that aluminum was not compatible with masonry yet you are using it for counter flashing attached to the masonry, can somebody explain this to me?
Can this process also be done on a stucco chimney? I've been told by some roofing companies that for stucco the flashing must be installed underneath the stucco therefore it must be broken and then redone over the flashing. Other companies have described a process that seems to be what you explained here with this brick chimney. Thanks in advance.
You can do it just like in this video, except the counter flashing will run parallel with the roof line instead of following the mortar joints.
Do you moonlight as fortnine?
Can I just put some flex seal on it?
Nice flashing job.
Is that steep counter flashing as good as the single piece type? It sure looks easier to make and install.
We prefer the individual pieces as it allows us to into the mortar joints and ensure a tight seal.
A single piece flashing can be done but it is harder to do well and unless the masonry unit size requires it, not necessary.
what do you do to the other side of the chimney counter flashing? do you put the 1 in bend "wing" on each side for the front and back piece? Do you put the one inch bend on left and right side of rear counter flashing? if so how do you lock in both sides?
I am wondering the same.
Imho using 8 inch lead for step flashing and 10 inch lead for bottom and top looks much nicer, and does a much better job. Lead can be 'worked' to wrap around. The bottom lead should always go first, which wraps up where your first piece of lead flashing goes. In turn your first piece of step should wrap about an inch over the bottom lead. This requires a lot more grinding as you must also grind all the steps, making sure that it overlaps each previous piece of flashing. Finally The top should contain an additional piece of ice and water shield that is placed over top of the top piece of lead to protect against any ice buildup that will occur. It also wraps the top piece of of step flashing. We then use what is known as quad sealant to do all the joints, as its flexible and has a lifetime of 50 years. This is more expensive and time consuming way to install but it looks way nicer and will last much longer.
Finally I mentioned never nailing flashing around a chimney and that's because they move over time. If you ever stripped older roofs you'll often notice that nails are lifting quite bad around chimney flashing and its because they move around, as well as the metal and or lead which expands and contracts as its effected by outside temperatures, and the chimney itself.
Would love to see some photos of the work you've done. While our system has performed extremely well over the years, I'd love to learn about different ways to do the work. Would you mind emailing photos? hello@roofcoindy.com Thanks.
Agreed though many places will not allow lead in new construction.
I agree. But my problem is to try to be environmentally pro active. Lead is very pliable. I have to do this to my chimney.
@@jerrydawg4434 There are alternatives to lead, such as zinc, and others. The key to remember is not to put nails in the bloody flashing, it creates the potential for a leak. makes it much more difficult when stripping the roof in the future with chances of ripping the flashing. It is perhaps my number one pet peeves in the roofing world.
Lap caulking is as good as you can get and what you should use. It last a very long time and sticks better than anything else .
Not a project for DIYers and roofers usually know how?? "Intricately bent" sheet metal works for a contractor with a $1599 brake. You should mention alternatives. The least expensive would be what's called a "folding tool" by HD sold for $25. There are other intermediate options costing hundreds. Another advantage of the folding tool is that it can be used on the roof.
Do you use any tar on the backsides on the flashing?
Hello. Thanks for the question. We first install ice/water shield membrane followed by flashing under the shingles. Next we install the counter flashing with a pan extended 18' behind the back of the chimney. No tar is used; however, we have begun using flashing tape to install over the step flashing and ice/water shield before installing the final counter flashing.
Nooooo....
Simple and good demostration. Thank you very much！ will you recomend any other flashing sealant？
Thank you Donald. Presently we have only relied on Vulkum sealant as it has proven to provide the best long term protection.
Tremco has by far the best masonry sealants. The two part sealants double the life of the installation.
Thank you both for the reply. What do you think about Henry wet patch for roof leak? Thanks in advance.
@@donaldh3504 for a short term temporary patch it's fine but a proper repair is best once weather subsides. Also depends on the repair being made.
@@jerrydawg4434 We will check it out. Thanks.
My mom has an old house and it has an old charcoal fireplace and in the attic the owners had tour down the chimney to about a foot or 2 away from the roof how would I go about with building it back and cutting through the roof and laying my shingles back right
Good morning! If you'd like to email us a few photos, we'd be happy to walk through the repair with you. hello@roofcoindy.com
Ok I'll get one and get back to you
So the step flashing is also bent at the top to go into the masonry joints?
Not the first aluminum one. Only the brown one, they call it counter flashing. Read up above and genayev says they cut a 'v' shape instead of just a lip and force that into the cut masonry joints and that it will actually stay in there without nails. That's what I'm going to do.
How much would you charge for this
What is the name of that crimping tool?
Can you come do my house?
Can't find any local roofers that want to do small jobs.
This doesn't address the water coming down the roof from above the chimney. How is the flashing bent to wrap around the top interface of the chimney and roof deck?
Hello and thanks for your question. We build a pan behind the chimney and follow the same process outlined in the video: I'd be happy to email you photos of this step. Please feel free to email us at hello@roofcoindy.com Thank you.
Are you located in Idaho?
Question, why not finger wipe the flashings?
Good question. We do wipe the sealant as needed. Do our best to keep the flashing and sealant looking clean.
what was the brand of the water & ice barrier?
Thanks for your question. For repairs and reroofs we use either Grace Ice/Water shield or Owens Corning Weatherlock
Are you suppose to use aluminum nails with aluminum??
Yes, you want to use the same type of metal.
Couple things.... 1. Aluminum brake metal is not suitable for contact with masonry. 2. Caulking is a term that refers to an esthetic finish material used in a non weather condition. The correct term is sealant. 3. All reglet set flashing requires a spring hem not a simple bend. 4. Fill the masonry joint with sealant and and set the flashing then seal the face..... I could go on SMACNA is your friend....
While we have completed hundreds of successful installations and the company who taught us has done thousands using this method; we are always looking for ways to improve and find better products and methods to be better everyday. Would love to see any photos or videos to learn more.
@@roofcoroofingexperts7836 The current SMACNA manual has all the info you could ever want to know about flashing.
Couldn’t even see what you were doing on the lower chimney face. A closer camera angle would have been helpful.
What if your chimney goes on both sides of the pitch
We will build a pan on both sides of the roof ridge and and follow the same plan as outlined in the video. I can share more detailed photos of examples if you'd like to contact us? Not seeing a way to post photos in the comments. Please feel free to email us directly and will be happy to email step by step photos of how this can be accomplished. hello@roofcoindy.com Thank you.
Nice tutorial, but at around 7 minutes you jumped over the most complicated part. If you needed to make this shorter, you could have trimmed elsewhere
Hello. We will be making updated repair videos this winter and will show the details. If you have any questions prior please do not hesitate to let us know. Thank you. hello@roofcoindy.com
more questions than answers....
Apologies for the delay in replies, we are in the full swing of roofing season. This upcoming winter we will make more videos specifically addressing different options and techniques to flash different types of chimneys. Thanks!
Wouldn't it be better to use mortar to seal the flashing in the joints?
Hello and thank you for the question. Using mortar is certainly an option. Our crews use Vulkum but either will work.
Todays adhesives work better than mortar since it doesn’t shrink. When you use new mortar it also will look way different than the older mortar and it stands out really bad I usually use Chemlink M1 polyurethane or something similar . I apply an initial bead and then a second application after the metal
Is installed . I’ve been in the masonry and hearth industry for over 20 years now and haven’t had a leak yet and live in the wet PNW. Unless I am building a new chimney I also prefer one piece per side of the chimney since it’s offers better protection as long as the chimney was built well and isn’t wavy . I only use step flashings on brand new rebuilds . I hope this helps.
Why in the USA they use theses roof shingles on their house? You will only see them on a shed roof every where else.
Funny…I replace lots of subpar flashings like this
What could he do better rather than just hating and not giving any constructive advice.
@@the1mrsmith355
punctuation
Vulcem caulk
What about a metal roof?
Great video but zoom would’ve helped
Middle finger at 5:06
👍👍🌹🌹
I was screaming "no!" When you almost put the second shingle on before the step flashing.
You must not be an actual roofer but a salesman or the owner of a roofing company.
What is the thickness of your metal?
Roofing people are funny every information video there is one ok probably more that will say. 😅i wouldn't do it that way 😅😅😅😅
Obviously you're not an installer, funny 🤣. But, great technique.
You completely skipped the bottom part of the chimney?????
The actual Top pan install got skipped🤷🏼♂️? . Or at least showing the process was skipped 😆
No wonder they keep cutting away your hammer strikes..
No offence, that looks terrible. In the UK we use lead soakers and lead step flashing. Looks much better and lasts decades.
What is a soaker?
@@williamriedel1686 a material like lead, bent at 90⁰ that goes under the tile/slate and up the chimney breast/wall. Then flashing goes over the top.
I see so many problems with this
Good morning Do. Thanks for the comment. With over 200 chimney's flashed this way we have never encountered a leak; however, would love any input you have on ways to flash a chimney.
I appreciate the use of a high quality sealant but it wil fail after a few years ! You are skipping the most important step !
Why not put tart all around it is the same shit
If you use this type of system you are absolutely screwed simple
Shingle roofs and its flashing are absolute bull
The problem is the people that really know their shit own the company, and the people that actually do the install are not that guy and are half as knowledgeable. Id say 70% of roof installs are somewhat half ass and corners cut somewhere
That may keep water out for 10 years, but it is ugly and complicated and finding a good roofer to do it properly is futile. Just sayin... there has to be a better way somewhere. If one had the money, it would seem there must be some way to build a better chimney. Why not have a system designed to collect the water and re-use it, before it gets to the gutter ?
You need a peace ..half moon around the stink pipe..you crazy roofer 😳
Mehaaaaa
LMAO wrong!! You clearly don't know what you are doing!
Use soldered metal corners made to pitch.
What about water saturation???
Oh you don't know what that is?? Lol
Would love to see a video of your method and work! While we’ve never had this method leak, would like to learn more! Thanks for the feedback!
Stick to roofing. You’re not a mason - that won’t last. You have a little bit of knowledge…
For you all you “DIY” this is incorrect from a masonry perspective. A little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing…
Garbage. Shady roofing companies that have a gutter trailer trying to sell you sand at the beach. Cutting grooves into brick veneers is just asking for trouble but if a dam roofer knew anything about structural construction then they would know that. Go up on a commercial or industrial roof and see how things are really done.
Brick veneer is not structural
Terrible...!
Appreciate the comment. As we are always looking to grow and improve, we would value constructive feedback or perhaps an example of your work. Love to share ideas, you can contact us at hello@roofcoindy.com
American roofing is so cheap and nasty, seriously lacking in skill.