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Your video was clear, brief, and very helpful. Thank you so much for all of them, 'cause this isn't the first of them I've looked for. I have a question though, if you even see it this late in time. The drive system worked (sort of) properly until the cable broke just above where it connects to the arm end of the clutch housing. I was surprised it worked in at all after I prepped it for a full side tip for inspection, which I never did in all the seven years since purchased. I've only ever tipped it straight back about 75 degrees to clear mulch buildup and wash the undercarriage and blades after using it. We're in south Georgia have LOTS of trees in the neighborhood, so what comes with that is Spanish Moss. I found the rear axle and clutch assembly, everything, clogged or wound tight with the stuff and hiding it. So, after a couple of hrs. I got it cleaned out, it worked better than ever for a few sessions and I thought that was it. Then the cable broke, I ordered new OEM cable and belt, and they're installed. Everything seemed as before, but pushing the drive paddles down to engage it there's little resistance, it feels stripped and only lifts the assembly's arm 1/2 inch at most. Also, tension from the spring on the clutch assembly doesn't flip the lever back up to it's normal position in neutral afterward. I'm fairly sure I didn't do anything incorrectly during reassembly. I'm an hvac/r tech and handyman kind of guy, and do most any repair or install that comes, except roofing. I've managed to avoid it up to now, and intend to stick to that plan. So, I proceeded then to dis- and reassemble the handle assembly several times closely checking it for a hint of what was wrong with it or what I was doing. During original removal I checked all the interior moving parts, and they seemed in great shape, enough to make me relived that I didn't have to buy a new one . But looking more carefully with bright light on the interior of the plastic "cam sleeve"...? I finally saw what seemed like score marks that were traced at an angle away from the track the pin sits in. The metal pin is the only thing in there that could make those marks. They were about 2/3's the travel distance of the guide track, leaving away from the side wall of the that bears all the pressure from the pin when used. All of this was barely noticeable, but at the same place the score marks were, the wall's shoulder there was rounded, and a little more shiny than the rest of the track. To my eyes, the wear is almost imperceptible, but I haven't seen a new, unused one. The difference could be huge, don't know. The tolerances may be tight enough to cause failure even when appearing perfectly fine, also...don't know. That pin has got to be leaving the track, but is also popping back into it after pressure is removed. Enough so that nothing seems drastic after it's pulled apart again anyway. Before I order a new one, maybe you can tell me if you've run into this issue or heard any advice on how to go from here. Maybe I missed something you might know about. Before putting the assembly back onto the handle a final time, and without much effect to the original width or depth, I squared off the worn shoulder (maybe 7/16th in.) on that side. It looked better, and was squared off enough to to give me hope that it was fixed enough to use while hunting for a replacement. INFO- Honda M# HRR216K9VKAA S# MZCG-1043423
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Great video, thank you! Good idea to put retaining clip for torque bolt in shroud before putting shroud back. Also, is it necessary to take the whole brake bar off or just the left side?
The video is certainly very helpful. The torx screw is not nearly as easy to reinstall as depicted in the video. It looks like a special tool was used to allow the bolt to engage the nut. It is impossible to reach it with your hand and still difficult to install when using a magnetic retrieving bar. And since it is difficult to reinstall the shroud, I'd recommend that the drive belt be changed at the same time. It only involves removing 4 bolts that are easily reached.
Thank you for the video. My mower was not as pretty as this one in the video. I changed the belt while I was changing out the broken cable. The only pain was to put the control butterfly handle back on and not jettison the spring.
I have the HRX214KVKA MAGA 1433809 (2006). I've replaced the Smart Drive Cable, and the Smart Drive controller (with updated one), but my mower still moves a lot slower than it used too. Any advice on what to try next? I need it back up to speed, I have a long stride.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
To keep it from spinning, make sure it is loose and not attached at the bottom when putting the pin back in the casing. It has to be in there straight or it will twist and pop out of the channels. To get it to engage... I had to loosen the threaded sleeve connection in the middle. It tightens the cord inside allowing the lever to engage/be more responsive.
I am not sure if I need to replace the entire cable or not. The top of my cable that connects to the grip does not look the same as in your picture. The length of the cable looks longer between the cable eyelet and the part the clicks in the spot in the handle. Can I tighten that up or do I need to replace the entire cable?
My HONDA Harmony II HRR216 self propelled mower's drive works fine but when I release the clutch lever, the back wheels will click when pushing the mower forward but the back wheels will not turn when I pull the mower backwards. Is this a clutch cable adjustment problem?
Bit late but no nothing to do with the cable. The clicking when going forward is normal, when your wheels seize up going backwards it's most likely the bushes on the drive axle that are at fault. Your driveaxle will get a bit of surface rust causing it to seize up in the bushings when going backwards. Take the transmission out, and dress up the ends of the axle with a bit of sandpaper until the surface rust is gone.
If somebody has to be alerted to so many safety precautions, they mustn't attempt this replacement on their own and should pay a professional. Chances are they've cut their finger off attempting to open their toolbox.
I'm a 60 year old female feeling quite pleased about fixing my lawnmower following your video tutorial. Thank you, thank you!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Your video was clear, brief, and very helpful. Thank you so much for all of them, 'cause this isn't the first of them I've looked for. I have a question though, if you even see it this late in time. The drive system worked (sort of) properly until the cable broke just above where it connects to the arm end of the clutch housing. I was surprised it worked in at all after I prepped it for a full side tip for inspection, which I never did in all the seven years since purchased. I've only ever tipped it straight back about 75 degrees to clear mulch buildup and wash the undercarriage and blades after using it. We're in south Georgia have LOTS of trees in the neighborhood, so what comes with that is Spanish Moss. I found the rear axle and clutch assembly, everything, clogged or wound tight with the stuff and hiding it. So, after a couple of hrs. I got it cleaned out, it worked better than ever for a few sessions and I thought that was it. Then the cable broke, I ordered new OEM cable and belt, and they're installed. Everything seemed as before, but pushing the drive paddles down to engage it there's little resistance, it feels stripped and only lifts the assembly's arm 1/2 inch at most. Also, tension from the spring on the clutch assembly doesn't flip the lever back up to it's normal position in neutral afterward. I'm fairly sure I didn't do anything incorrectly during reassembly. I'm an hvac/r tech and handyman kind of guy, and do most any repair or install that comes, except roofing. I've managed to avoid it up to now, and intend to stick to that plan. So, I proceeded then to dis- and reassemble the handle assembly several times closely checking it for a hint of what was wrong with it or what I was doing. During original removal I checked all the interior moving parts, and they seemed in great shape, enough to make me relived that I didn't have to buy a new one . But looking more carefully with bright light on the interior of the plastic "cam sleeve"...? I finally saw what seemed like score marks that were traced at an angle away from the track the pin sits in. The metal pin is the only thing in there that could make those marks. They were about 2/3's the travel distance of the guide track, leaving away from the side wall of the that bears all the pressure from the pin when used. All of this was barely noticeable, but at the same place the score marks were, the wall's shoulder there was rounded, and a little more shiny than the rest of the track. To my eyes, the wear is almost imperceptible, but I haven't seen a new, unused one. The difference could be huge, don't know. The tolerances may be tight enough to cause failure even when appearing perfectly fine, also...don't know. That pin has got to be leaving the track, but is also popping back into it after pressure is removed. Enough so that nothing seems drastic after it's pulled apart again anyway. Before I order a new one, maybe you can tell me if you've run into this issue or heard any advice on how to go from here. Maybe I missed something you might know about. Before putting the assembly back onto the handle a final time, and without much effect to the original width or depth, I squared off the worn shoulder (maybe 7/16th in.) on that side. It looked better, and was squared off enough to to give me hope that it was fixed enough to use while hunting for a replacement. INFO- Honda M# HRR216K9VKAA S# MZCG-1043423
This video was a wonderful help. Struggled a bit getting butterfly handle back together properly. In the end we got it, thanks to this vid!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
This video just saved me like 150 bucks, thanks man!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you! Just fixed my Honda HRN216VKA watching your video.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Very well done video. Although the shroud was a little different for my HRR216K8 model, the essential details were accurate. Many thanks!
Great video, thank you!
Good idea to put retaining clip for torque bolt in shroud before putting shroud back.
Also, is it necessary to take the whole brake bar off or just the left side?
The video is certainly very helpful. The torx screw is not nearly as easy to reinstall as depicted in the video. It looks like a special tool was used to allow the bolt to engage the nut. It is impossible to reach it with your hand and still difficult to install when using a magnetic retrieving bar. And since it is difficult to reinstall the shroud, I'd recommend that the drive belt be changed at the same time. It only involves removing 4 bolts that are easily reached.
Thank you for the video. My mower was not as pretty as this one in the video. I changed the belt while I was changing out the broken cable. The only pain was to put the control butterfly handle back on and not jettison the spring.
I have the HRX214KVKA MAGA 1433809 (2006). I've replaced the Smart Drive Cable, and the Smart Drive controller (with updated one), but my mower still moves a lot slower than it used too. Any advice on what to try next? I need it back up to speed, I have a long stride.
I need a video on the roto stop cable on a Honda HRX 217HYA 200cc with hydrostatic transmission.
Thanks, saved by butt trying to put my mower back together. Great video!
Thank you for the video. Question: when I pressed the "Smart Drive Control" which caused a "gee gee" noise. Is it about time to replace that cable?
Can you do a video on HRX217HXA 06225-VH7-305 cable kit.
thank you soo much for this!.👍👍👍👍👍
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We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
@@repairclinic just did it. thank you soo much you guys made an excellent video
Nice video thanks 😊
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We hope that you have a great day!
Very good instructions and helpful!
I put the butterfly handles back together but I still can’t get it to engage, what am I doing wrong? Also it just spins
I have this same issue. Wondering if the 'butterfly handles' are worn allowing the pin to misalign? Did you end up fixing it?
To keep it from spinning, make sure it is loose and not attached at the bottom when putting the pin back in the casing. It has to be in there straight or it will twist and pop out of the channels.
To get it to engage... I had to loosen the threaded sleeve connection in the middle. It tightens the cord inside allowing the lever to engage/be more responsive.
Thanks friend for vídeo
Great video.
What cable can I use to keep my mower working I have a Honda 432 self drive I need a dead mans cable
I've gotta problem with my blades not engaging on a honda gcv 160 ...any suggestions?
Do you have this video for the HRD536?
Good video only thing is need to show more detail of what is top and bottom on parts because they are different
my blades won't engage but it self propels
. can you tell me how to fix
I am not sure if I need to replace the entire cable or not. The top of my cable that connects to the grip does not look the same as in your picture. The length of the cable looks longer between the cable eyelet and the part the clicks in the spot in the handle. Can I tighten that up or do I need to replace the entire cable?
Because some of us are older and we always don't put it back as soon as we take it off so because of the time lapse we forget
Very helpful!
Thanks Susan!
Can't get old clutch cable loose from bracket.
You did well except you quit too soon. You did not show adjusting the cable length for optimum engagement of the drive. Honda has a spec on that.
honda hrr2166vka self propelled cable came off and it looks nothing like this no place to latch to
Thank you, very helpful
My HONDA Harmony II HRR216 self propelled mower's drive works fine but when I release the clutch lever, the back wheels will click when pushing the mower forward but the back wheels will not turn when I pull the mower backwards. Is this a clutch cable adjustment problem?
Traction control cable most likely or possibly a gear tooth slipped on rear tire. Less likely Axle is bent or Drive belt is damaged.
my honda lawnmower 217 back wheels will not go backwards only front. what's is the problem please? ?
Bit late but no nothing to do with the cable. The clicking when going forward is normal, when your wheels seize up going backwards it's most likely the bushes on the drive axle that are at fault. Your driveaxle will get a bit of surface rust causing it to seize up in the bushings when going backwards. Take the transmission out, and dress up the ends of the axle with a bit of sandpaper until the surface rust is gone.
Leave it to Honda to make it complicated, lol
my blades won't engage
If somebody has to be alerted to so many safety precautions, they mustn't attempt this replacement on their own and should pay a professional. Chances are they've cut their finger off attempting to open their toolbox.
TM Terry I think it's more so just on there as a liability thing. Any rate that may just very well save somebody's life man...
Not so hard to do. Thanks,