I have the same problem with my 2011 Flex Titanium but I am narrowing it down. I have changed the struts because a mechanic said it was the struts, that wasn't the issue as far as i can tell. So I have replaced the lower control arm bushings, you don't have to remove the control arm from the car if you don't want to. I used my grinder with a cutoff disk to remove the old bearing, then I used your soap suggestion, but used a 3 foot pipe clamp to push the new bearing on, they slip on pretty easy with the clamp. But that only lessened the thumping, it used to be very loud over bumps, sounded like the front end was falling off, so the bearings needed to be replaced plus when I pulled the lower control arm I could wiggle the bushings by hand, you can't do that with the new ones. So I just bought new bushing for the sway bar, after doing some research, I guess these bushings also cause that thumping noise, all be it the noise and the feeling through the floorboards has decreased and is more present on bigger bumps/ entering and leaving the drive way. So assuming the new struts are functioning properly, the lower control arm bearings are good, there are only a few more Items left that could be the issue. I should know by tomorrow if the sway bar bushing solves the issue for the remaining thumping noise. If that doesn't work I guess I will be changing the sway bar stabilizer arms, I guess I should have pulled one off and investigated it when I had it apart for the strut replacement. I do have a question though as they did not appear to be bad, I did a visual inspection on the front bushing on the lower control arms, and the thumping feels like it is further back by the rear bushing which has lead me to believe I am working in the right area, the sway bar bushing are in the same general area as the lower control arm bushing and that is where the thumping feels like it is coming from, what is your feelings on that front bushing being the problem. Like I had mentioned I could physically wiggle the rear bushing with my hand but the front ones appeared to be undamaged. By the way it was your video that lead me to changing out the bearings, I should have watched it before I changed out the struts but I was going on my mechanics recommendation, I had to modify the procedure as I didn't have a press or the tool for removing the bearing but your video helped explain the process. Thanks
Noises in front ends can be a real pain to find. The sway bar link pins make noise in a lot of cars I work on. I have seen the sway bar bushing having play in them and they also will make noise. Thanks for watching
Any updates? I’ve been trying to figure out my front end clunking as well. Wasn’t the control arms for me. Now I’m thinking it may be motor mounts. A lot of torque steer as well.
Had the same problem with my '14 taurus. Clunking noise when stopping. Thought maybe trans mounts but was worn out bushings on control arm. Changed both arms and clunking gone.
Yes ford used the this chassis on the Taurus also. I do believe its a modified Volvo chassis. They used it when Ford owned Volvo and after they sold them. Thanks for watching
Would this be the same for a light klunk coming "away" from any stop? I have it on a 11 flex, had the control arms replaced about 10 months ago. Last time I had this in the driver front tire area while driving it was a broken brake clip, which my tire place is saying isn't the issue now.
Very helpful, I have a Lincoln MKS and it’s very similar if not the same, I think it rides on the same platform anyways but in order the whole arm I don’t have the tools to press the bushings. But it’s a simple job otherwise from the looks of it
What happens when clunk still exists after replacing with oem control arm/bushings, sway bar end links, updated Ecoboost cv axles? I’ve dealt with this for years…
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I guess I should have mentioned… I installed new coilovers, thinking that would eliminate any possible issues from factory struts. Same sound.
Had to do these on my 15 explorer was an absolute pain in the ass especially doing it in the driveway. I had to go buy the biggest dead blow hammer i could find and use soap mix but finally got it. The 1st side was just terrible but the second one i got done pretty quick. It is definitely possible without removing the control arms though just need a big hammer and a good swing.
Get plastic hammer and tap it. No needs of press. I have done on explorer, Taurus, flex and mkt and mkz. If you work outside or at home. Even in the shop a lot easier.
Next time, I'll watch the end of your video first, that way I know to take off the control arms. I thought you had a trick to avoid taking off the arms.
Nice work but if the vehicle is up in miles and the balljoint hasn't been replaced better to just replace the whole arm both really the other has the same miles then get a alignment if no slack anywhere else
I watched a video on RUclips a guy used 2 threaded rods with 2 strips of steel and used it to press it in on the car because he didn't have a press anyways and ended up working
The G Automotive And More indeed crap design tried holding it pliers a pry bar ended up using vise grips problem was when got to the end then was gonna take the axle out come from the top eith stubby impact well the axle was frozen! In the hub 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤣😂 so I said screw it sorry I tried your gonna have to buy the whole arm and I cut the stud and bolt off with the saws all. Lmao stupid ford
You can do it on the car. I’ve done it. It’s a pain in the ass. I need about a 10 pound hammer and send it real good it’ll go on, but it’ll where are you out
I have the same problem with my 2011 Flex Titanium but I am narrowing it down. I have changed the struts because a mechanic said it was the struts, that wasn't the issue as far as i can tell. So I have replaced the lower control arm bushings, you don't have to remove the control arm from the car if you don't want to. I used my grinder with a cutoff disk to remove the old bearing, then I used your soap suggestion, but used a 3 foot pipe clamp to push the new bearing on, they slip on pretty easy with the clamp. But that only lessened the thumping, it used to be very loud over bumps, sounded like the front end was falling off, so the bearings needed to be replaced plus when I pulled the lower control arm I could wiggle the bushings by hand, you can't do that with the new ones.
So I just bought new bushing for the sway bar, after doing some research, I guess these bushings also cause that thumping noise, all be it the noise and the feeling through the floorboards has decreased and is more present on bigger bumps/ entering and leaving the drive way. So assuming the new struts are functioning properly, the lower control arm bearings are good, there are only a few more Items left that could be the issue. I should know by tomorrow if the sway bar bushing solves the issue for the remaining thumping noise. If that doesn't work I guess I will be changing the sway bar stabilizer arms, I guess I should have pulled one off and investigated it when I had it apart for the strut replacement.
I do have a question though as they did not appear to be bad, I did a visual inspection on the front bushing on the lower control arms, and the thumping feels like it is further back by the rear bushing which has lead me to believe I am working in the right area, the sway bar bushing are in the same general area as the lower control arm bushing and that is where the thumping feels like it is coming from, what is your feelings on that front bushing being the problem. Like I had mentioned I could physically wiggle the rear bushing with my hand but the front ones appeared to be undamaged.
By the way it was your video that lead me to changing out the bearings, I should have watched it before I changed out the struts but I was going on my mechanics recommendation, I had to modify the procedure as I didn't have a press or the tool for removing the bearing but your video helped explain the process. Thanks
Noises in front ends can be a real pain to find. The sway bar link pins make noise in a lot of cars I work on. I have seen the sway bar bushing having play in them and they also will make noise. Thanks for watching
Any updates?
I’ve been trying to figure out my front end clunking as well. Wasn’t the control arms for me. Now I’m thinking it may be motor mounts. A lot of torque steer as well.
First video on this rear bushing replacement and it also applies for explorers thanks
And Lincolns and Taurus I think they are all on the same chassis, I have a Lincoln and I’m going to change my lower control arm
Had the same problem with my '14 taurus. Clunking noise when stopping. Thought maybe trans mounts but was worn out bushings on control arm. Changed both arms and clunking gone.
Yes ford used the this chassis on the Taurus also. I do believe its a modified Volvo chassis. They used it when Ford owned Volvo and after they sold them. Thanks for watching
Excellent explanation.Glad I watched this before attempting it myself.
Thanks for watching
Would this be the same for a light klunk coming "away" from any stop? I have it on a 11 flex, had the control arms replaced about 10 months ago. Last time I had this in the driver front tire area while driving it was a broken brake clip, which my tire place is saying isn't the issue now.
Could be but I would look at the sway bar links.
Freestyle and 500 as well. We went with the whole control arm assy from rock by Moog for less than $100.
my ford explorer makes a knocking sound when I go over rough spots on the road. could this be the same problem?
It could be but I would be checking the sway bar link pins.
Very helpful, I have a Lincoln MKS and it’s very similar if not the same, I think it rides on the same platform anyways but in order the whole arm I don’t have the tools to press the bushings. But it’s a simple job otherwise from the looks of it
Its not bad at all if you are going to replace the whole control arm. Thanks for watching
What happens when clunk still exists after replacing with oem control arm/bushings, sway bar end links, updated Ecoboost cv axles? I’ve dealt with this for years…
Is it the upper pivot plate on the top of the strut?
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I guess I should have mentioned… I installed new coilovers, thinking that would eliminate any possible issues from factory struts. Same sound.
@@trinogt When does the clunk happen, when braking or over bumps?
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore happens over small bumps, braking or not, turning or not.
@@trinogt Could it be in the rack and pinion bushings
Had to do these on my 15 explorer was an absolute pain in the ass especially doing it in the driveway. I had to go buy the biggest dead blow hammer i could find and use soap mix but finally got it. The 1st side was just terrible but the second one i got done pretty quick. It is definitely possible without removing the control arms though just need a big hammer and a good swing.
New control arms it is. Thanks.
Awesome video man
The same and with 2013 Ford Fusion?
Yes the Fusion has a bushing there but it's a little different.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore yes, I can't find that bushing...need to replace the hole arm
@@redihoxha2940 Yep that is what I saw online also.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I couldn't find and online for mine
@@redihoxha2940 I looked it up on Rock Auto . Have to buy the whole arm.
Need alignment after this? Thanks for the video
yes
Would this cause the steering wheel to shake?
Yes It could. But probably Tires or brakes are your problem. Thanks for watching
If your braking it's probably warped rotors
So did that solve the “clunking” problem???
Yes it did. Thanks for watching
Did you have to tske the axkle out?
No you don't have to. Thanks for watching
How much does this cost? My 2012 Explorer has the same problem.
Sorry I don't do the money part, I just fix them. Thanks for watching
Get plastic hammer and tap it. No needs of press. I have done on explorer, Taurus, flex and mkt and mkz. If you work outside or at home. Even in the shop a lot easier.
I tried that it did not work for me. Thanks for watching
I just bought the wife a new stereo so she can hear it anymore. Unfortunately she’s going to figure it out one day, so what’s the tag on the fix?
$1,000,000
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore sounds reasonable
Next time, I'll watch the end of your video first, that way I know to take off the control arms. I thought you had a trick to avoid taking off the arms.
I thought I did but I didn't. I guess you can only do BMW's that way. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore It's all good brother, you get A for effort anyway, your video was helpful to some extent. Keep on wrenching.
Nice work but if the vehicle is up in miles and the balljoint hasn't been replaced better to just replace the whole arm both really the other has the same miles then get a alignment if no slack anywhere else
Yes I agree but the ball joints on this car was ok. Thanks for watching
Thank You!
NICE!
I watched a video on RUclips a guy used 2 threaded rods with 2 strips of steel and used it to press it in on the car because he didn't have a press anyways and ended up working
Thanks
I think a furniture clamp would work without removing ballpoint.
Super 👍😉😀
Thank you 👍
I jus sell the whole arm save them on labor then also has new ball joint n front bushing. Good tips tho
The ball joint was good so I don't feel bad about just changing the bushing and it does save the customer money. Thanks for watching
The G Automotive And More. I tried to save the ball joint it was spinning and then the stud 11mm stripped 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@c.torino2479 I hate the new ball joints that you have to hold the stud from spinning.
The G Automotive And More indeed crap design tried holding it pliers a pry bar ended up using vise grips problem was when got to the end then was gonna take the axle out come from the top eith stubby impact well the axle was frozen! In the hub 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤣😂 so I said screw it sorry I tried your gonna have to buy the whole arm and I cut the stud and bolt off with the saws all. Lmao stupid ford
@@c.torino2479 Other manufacturers Had this style before Ford. They are just coyping it.
As an explorer owner, save yourself the hassle and just get new lower control arms.
You can do it on the car. I’ve done it. It’s a pain in the ass. I need about a 10 pound hammer and send it real good it’ll go on, but it’ll where are you out
Forget the dish soap use some silicone spay
The dish soap has work for me on the BMW ones. This one was to tight, had to use the press. Thanks for watching
I believe the correct substance is dish warshing liquid. Mmmmhmmmm!
Useless video. If you take off the control arm you will never get it back on.
That's funny. I was able to get it back on.
Lmao. Wut
imo idc