Thank you so much for you're tutorial. I was able to wire 7 keystone jack and rj45 connector. Also for the link, just brought from Amazon, work very well. Tip, do not do what I did. When you wire the rj45 connector, makes sure the connector is facing down so the push connector needs to be facing down. I put the wire in but it was the wrong way around. Orange swipe is 1 and brown is pin 8. I did this for 7 wires so had to cut it off and rewire. When I used the network tester, the keystone jack and rj45 connector tested perfect... Light on from 1 to 8.
If you properly angle your cut down tool you don’t have to twist the cable ends off. They should be clean cut. You should probably place the keystone Jack on a solid surface and then cut. It’ll be easier.
haha yes you're right - the difference between "doing it for real in everyday life" and "doing it in front of the camera on the lightbox surface". Unfortunately it's not a solid enough surface so I couldn't press down firmly like I normally would! :)
When doing a structured cabling in a building I would always recommend using S/FTP (shielded/foiled) since most likely you will have some power lines close the CAT wires somewere.
Been through that nightmare. Had bad VoIP issues. Eventually we figured out the installers ran them along power cables. Certainly did cause issues for us. Problems went away after we had the installers come back and install shielded cable instead. Running parallel to power cables, even for short distances along PoE connected ethernet cables can cause issues with devices.
Thanks for a great video. Your voice is a bit like that of 'Birdperson' from ‘Rick and Morty’. Which makes it sound like you know what you’re talking about. 😂 You clearly do though!
Cheers for the brilliant Ethernet wiring tutorial! This will be a jolly good way to save a good chunk of dosh, as I fancy wiring up the entire house to connect all my routers. Top-notch stuff, mate! .
Excellent video - thank you. My building has CAT5E cabling throughout and I am now fitting RJ45 sockets at the end of these cables. I am being offered CAT5E or CAT 6 sockets. Should I stick with CAT5E or is there a benefit to using the CAT6?
CAT6 and CAT5E refer to the cabling, not the sockets. Sometimes you see sockets which are labelled either way but AFAIK it's irrelevant and makes no difference.
How is the Job of an IT technician? What do you say? Is it a career worth pursuing? I'm doing my Bachelor's in Computer Science and bit confused about my future job prefrence.
If you enjoy it and you can find a good company to work for (or start your own) then yes it can be a good and fun job, however if you're studying Computer Science then would you not want to go into programming or software development of some kind? I am neither really; I'm just interested in both so do them as a hobby and earn a bit of extra money with this channel etc., so I'm not the best person to give career advice but go with what you love so it doesn't feel like work!
Thank you very much for this excellent tutorial and knowledge sharing! I have a question to make: Does this function the same as a pair of power line adapters? Do you need the router plugged in another one like this in the same building? Or or works differently? How does it connect to the internet network of the house?
No, this isn't like Powerline Adapters because they use the existing electrical cabling in the walls to send and receive the data between two points. That can sometimes work well but can be affected by lots of things and is only ever done when you have no alternative. Running a dedicated network cable like this is the gold standard best way of doing it. You'd connect one end to your router and the other end could either go direct to one device or to a switch to serve many devices at the other end
@@SwitchedOnNetwork So, you place two of these ones on walls and you link them togetehr through the walls with a dedicated network cable? And then you plug one to your router and the other one to the other device or splitter? Have a nice week!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork And the cable through the wall is the same cable we use for an Ethernet connection? If such an outlet has two "holes" for Ethernet clip-ins, can two devices be plugged in and work? Alternatively, could the two outlets be connected through the wall to the existing power lines, the same way power line adapters are, with only difference being integrated in the wall for aesthetic reasons? Thank you again for teaching!! 😊
Hey there, maybe or hopefully still reading here. Just wondering if the mentioned Klein tool for punching down is also for Cat7 since the web only tells CAT3, CAT5e, and CAT6/6A?
Is there any reason i couldn't terminate both sides with a socket? For example a wall socket in my garden room and one in my house and use standard ethernet cable to take it up to my router?
Can I use this with a poe cctv switch in the middle? Camera into house into a socket and patched ethernet lead from switch into ethernet socket inside house ?
Thanks for your help/advice on this, I have just yesterday fitted my first 4 cables in my house between their wall jacks and they now work perfectly. I do though have 2 questions to ask if its ok, but for some reason one tester does not work but one does (on my cable which is about 20-30m in length) but both do work on just a single short cable, so does the length of cable cause problems with the testers, and if so does this mean the cable is to long? On another question the tester which does work, on both of the cables, its identically shows all LEDs lighting up 1 to 8 in order but for some reason they show dimmer from 4 to 8, is there any reason for this possibly?
You should be able to test huge long lengths of cable with the testers - I tested a ~90m cable run between my house and a neighbour's a few years ago, which wasn't far off the 100m "maximum" length you're meant to stick to for Cat6. It sounds like it might be a faulty or poor quality (sorry!) tester... or maybe it needs fresh batteries? What tester(s) are you using? Do the LEDs light dimly on both ends of the tester or just one?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork they dim only on the end without the batteries. And the tester is a cheap one. I only need it to wire up my house so i didnt want to pay too much for single use equipment. Its a Preciva Master NS-468
i bought a rj45 socket today and the diagram on the back is the 568A. However looking at my ethernet cable it looks like the order of the wires are the 568B where pin 1 is green/white. Am i right in saying that although my diagram on the back shows pin one as orange/white would I actually put the Green/White in that slot?
Yeah I'd stick with B if I were you, just to keep things the same. However, the only thing that really matters it that if you wire dup your socket to T568A on one end, it's also wired up to T568A on the other end, too. Or B and B. Just not a mixture. You could have a cable with B on each end plugged into a socket which uses A and as long as the other end of that cable run is also A, you'd be fine. But to avoid confusion, since you have the option, just go with B everywhere :)
This is more of a question, I’m in a new house, and the router is a floor under me, but we have Ethernets that come into the wall, pretty sure a cat5 and it’s not working when I plug my computers Ethernet into it, idk if it’s broken, or if I have to find the other end and plug it into the router? But I can’t find another end of a Ethernet anywhere in this house, but there is multiple Ethernet outputs in each room that don’t work
Sounds like you have cabling to all (or lots) of the rooms, which is great! They'll all need to feed into a network switch somewhere (basement maybe?) and the router connect into that. Can you not find the other ends anywhere? You could use a cable tester to see if any of the rooms are directly connected together maybe!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I found a silver box in the basement, with a crap ton of white weird stripped and screwed down, I saw the Ethernet plugged into my router that comes from the basement is a WAN, and their is only 1 and it’s plugged in, I have no idea why the ethernets around the house aren’t working
@@SwitchedOnNetwork thanks 🙏, can I ask what could possibly cause a speed of just over 600 mbpbs when I’m on 1GB connection. I’ve got one cable in the wall with the jacks on the wall. A cable from the modem to the wall. And a cable in the outlet upstairs. But can’t seem to get near 1GB
@@SwitchedOnNetwork yes mate. I’ve tested the cables around the main one in the wall and they’re working fine just when connecting to the two wall jacks. Just unsure what it could be
Please can you (or anyone) tell me how to do this with a flat ethernet cable? They seem to be wired differently to traditional round ones and I can't find any crimping tool, stripper or tutorial for them. It's a flat Cat 6 cable and I just need to put a new connector on one end.
You can't join them together - you'd need to get a double keystone socket with two jacks. If you want two connections then you'll need to add in a network switch
@@SwitchedOnNetwork naa i haven't got a tester. just order one up now. Not sure what the problem is. when i connect the Ethernet cable to my PC id doesn't pick up nothing
One of the connections may be bad or one of the wires might have got damaged - or there might be an issue with the cable elsewhere along it, not even at the ends...
Hi, thanks for the guide. I am planning on setting up 3 separate wall sockets, one RJ45 by the modem and router at the 1st floor (A), another RJ45 wall socket directly above it at the 2nd floor to use for mesh network (B), and the 3rd wall socket in the room beside the mesh at the 2nd floor (C). A - being the main point, B - 10 meters from A, and C - furthest away from A, but closest to B. Do i need to run 2 seperate cables like A to B and A to C, where i need to rewire two wall jacks from the router A. Or could i extend two cables in a way so i get away with routing them from A to B, then B to C? I want to prioritize latency, speed and consistency on wall jack C though, so i dont want much interference from the WiFi. Thanks :)
Ok sure, as Cat6a is a bit more expensive than cat6 in my country, can i buy like 30m long cable and cut the middle and ends and use it for the 4 wall jacks?
@@Batman-db2vv depends on what it is you’re actually talking about. A fiber terminal can be a black box where fiber strands are spliced and set up on a utility pole to feed numerous properties in an area. Now if you’re talking about something that is spliced on a single property it can be numerous things, it depends on which point the splice is at.
I am about to move to a new house. It's a building with an Article 4 restriction specifying no cables on the outside wall above 1m.....so the Virgin media shiz has to go in at the front of the house. This means that the modem has to be in the front room and I need ethernet sockets in 3 bedrooms and an office. Probably a noob question, but the cable run from each room needs to terminate individually in the room with the modem/switch? Is there a plate that can accommodate 4 keystones? Second question, from the virgin media can I connect to just a switch or do I need a router specifically?
Yes, the best way to do that would be each room with an independent cable running back to a keystone in the room with the router/switch in. You should be able to find a 4x keystone plate no problem. And yes, if you're using your Virgin Media superhub as a router then just connect that to a switch and then the 4 room connections into a switch (or just use the 4 ports on the Virgin modem?). However, I'd recommend putting the Virgin box into modem-only mode and using a far better router such as Netgear Orbi (see other videos on the channel).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork thanks for the reply. I currently have vm hub in modem only modem and use eero for wifi. I was hoping to go hub > switch > eero/pc/laptop...if that makes sense. Obviously the devices via socket/keystone/cable. Just a bit confused as to whether I NEED to use a router in place of the switch. I get different views from different people.
You absolutely 100%, no question about it, NEED a router if your Hub is in modem only mode, otherwise there's nothing to ROUTE the data between the external internet and the devices on your local network
@@SwitchedOnNetwork One last question. Can you foresee any issues using the eero(s) off a wired router? They're awesome and I'd like to continue using them if possible.
You'll need a tester then to find out which of the 8 connections (or it could be several) is failing so you know which to repair. Link to my recommended testee is in the video description 👍
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Well I guessed that but I want to take the guess out of it as it is easy to get it wrong as it is going in a four way nightmare how would you do it any clues Cheers
If I have a fibre optic broadband. I have 4 floors to wire up. I want ethernet ports in each floor so that he quality of the connection doesn't degrade as much, would I need to do this? Do I call in an electrician to do it for me? If anyone knows please let me know as I am new home maker. I am UK Based
You should be able to do it yourself without an electrician, as none of this is connected to any live electricity or anything like that. If you're in a position to run ethernet ports to each floor then I'd strongly recommend that you ALSO add fibre alongside the copper ethernet - your future self will thank you! I'd put a decent-sized gigabit (or faster) network switch next to your modem and then run CAT6a from there to each room/location in your house. If you can get a switch which also has SFP ports for fibre, do that too (see my video here for more info: ruclips.net/video/XQjP135ZtcE/видео.html) You'll then have a pretty sweet setup!
Almost certainly, unless you're lucky enough to already have some routes between rooms which aren't already full. When drilling through walls, just make sure there are no cables or water/gas pipes where you're going to drill! It's easy to check, and this stud finder is currently on a Black Friday deal on Amazon (amzn.to/3N0QlaK - affiliate link).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork some rooms do have ethernet sockets, but that was from the previous owner and I since changed to fibre broadband. So I need to change the sockets to fibre? Or leave them as they are and connect the new broadband cable to them? Then add the ethernet sockets in the rooms which don't have any already
You don't need to change the sockets that are already in the rooms to fibre unless you want to. Having "fibre broadband" can mean a lot of things, but it always *only* refers to the connection from your ISP to your broadband modem/router. After that, it's up to you how you want to distribute that "fibre broadband" around your house. Either using WiFi, copper cable (eg. CAT5e, CAT6, CAT6a etc.) to an ethernet port [better than WiFi, but obviously less convenient] or with fibre cabling around your house [even better than copper cable, but more expensive].
@@SwitchedOnNetwork We have high demands on performance in the industry in Germany. we are prescribed measurement protocols. fluke measuring devices would immediately recognize the missing cable shield and the missing twist. we only work with module connectors, where the cables are kept as short as possible. I use only. Metz Connect 130910-I RJ45-Einbaumodul E-Dat CAT 6a the customer is king
@@SwitchedOnNetwork the twisting of each pair must be carried out to the end. we only use cables where each pair is shielded. cat 6a sftp the measuring device only says whether the connection is correct. says nothing about the quality of the connection. lengths over 90m are not accepted! there are still 2 patch cables. you have to stay below 100 meters. It is not a question of a connection, but of a fast, trouble-free connection.
Ah yes, well I was only using Cat6 cable so different standards and requirements. I wasn't demonstrating with Cat6a cable for 10Gbps networks in this case.
You are using a 110 Punch down on Krone connections, this is not the correct way to do it, they are totally different connections, all your terminals will be messed up, there are two totally different tools for this.....jeez.
Is there a better one you'd recommend for the job? I've had mine probably nearly 10 years and it's never let me down. It's just a continuity tester at the end of the day, doesn't need to be to complex 😁
That doesn't make it a crap wall mount, it's just that I was demonstrating with Cat6 cable which has no shielding. Cat6a or Cat7 would be outside of the scope of this video and if there's enough interest I might make a follow up video showing those options too in the future.
Thank you so much for you're tutorial. I was able to wire 7 keystone jack and rj45 connector. Also for the link, just brought from Amazon, work very well. Tip, do not do what I did. When you wire the rj45 connector, makes sure the connector is facing down so the push connector needs to be facing down. I put the wire in but it was the wrong way around. Orange swipe is 1 and brown is pin 8. I did this for 7 wires so had to cut it off and rewire. When I used the network tester, the keystone jack and rj45 connector tested perfect... Light on from 1 to 8.
Best video on RUclips on how to do this.
That's very kind, thank you!
Great video, it helped me alot. I got caught out with the differences in T568A and B, had to use a tester to find out what I needed to use
If you properly angle your cut down tool you don’t have to twist the cable ends off. They should be clean cut. You should probably place the keystone Jack on a solid surface and then cut. It’ll be easier.
haha yes you're right - the difference between "doing it for real in everyday life" and "doing it in front of the camera on the lightbox surface". Unfortunately it's not a solid enough surface so I couldn't press down firmly like I normally would! :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I think you should use a tool that has a cutting scissor instead of a puncher. Works much better and the surface does not matter.
Should you not keep the wires twisted right upto where they are pressed down rather than untwist them all the way back to the main cable?
When doing a structured cabling in a building I would always recommend using S/FTP (shielded/foiled) since most likely you will have some power lines close the CAT wires somewere.
most likely wont even cause any issues.
Been through that nightmare. Had bad VoIP issues. Eventually we figured out the installers ran them along power cables. Certainly did cause issues for us. Problems went away after we had the installers come back and install shielded cable instead. Running parallel to power cables, even for short distances along PoE connected ethernet cables can cause issues with devices.
Ouch! Yes I can imagine that would cause quite a lot of problems. Glad you got it sorted!
Thanks for a great video. Your voice is a bit like that of 'Birdperson' from ‘Rick and Morty’. Which makes it sound like you know what you’re talking about. 😂 You clearly do though!
Cheers for the brilliant Ethernet wiring tutorial! This will be a jolly good way to save a good chunk of dosh, as I fancy wiring up the entire house to connect all my routers. Top-notch stuff, mate! .
You're very welcome! Glad it was useful and hope the project goes well 💪
@@SwitchedOnNetwork 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
I heard at school the A type is more widely used while the b type is used in america and some other countries.
Im from Chile and use B
This video is really helpful.....Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, had to replace it in my home
Glad I could help! 👍🙂
Excellent video - thank you. My building has CAT5E cabling throughout and I am now fitting RJ45 sockets at the end of these cables. I am being offered CAT5E or CAT 6 sockets. Should I stick with CAT5E or is there a benefit to using the CAT6?
CAT6 and CAT5E refer to the cabling, not the sockets. Sometimes you see sockets which are labelled either way but AFAIK it's irrelevant and makes no difference.
Very useful thanks, worked perfectly 👍🏻
Glad to hear it!
Nice video. Best to place unit on a solid surface rather than your palm just incase you slip
Yes - I was filming on a wobbly flexible plastic light stand so couldn't press down onto that. In the real world, press onto the floor :)
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was useful 🙂
One question pleasee,the other end of the cable that you connected to the jack,where will go????????
It depends on your needs but usually another identical wall jack in another room.
So I clicked on the link. But I’m doing cat 7 where and how do I ground?
Use solid cables, stranded won't work well on wall socket due to poor/no contact after punchdown
useful for me....
How is the Job of an IT technician? What do you say? Is it a career worth pursuing? I'm doing my Bachelor's in Computer Science and bit confused about my future job prefrence.
I'm working in my vacations as an IT technician and I have done this work. I know how to mount this Ethernet socket.
If you enjoy it and you can find a good company to work for (or start your own) then yes it can be a good and fun job, however if you're studying Computer Science then would you not want to go into programming or software development of some kind? I am neither really; I'm just interested in both so do them as a hobby and earn a bit of extra money with this channel etc., so I'm not the best person to give career advice but go with what you love so it doesn't feel like work!
Thank you very much for this excellent tutorial and knowledge sharing! I have a question to make: Does this function the same as a pair of power line adapters? Do you need the router plugged in another one like this in the same building? Or or works differently? How does it connect to the internet network of the house?
No, this isn't like Powerline Adapters because they use the existing electrical cabling in the walls to send and receive the data between two points. That can sometimes work well but can be affected by lots of things and is only ever done when you have no alternative. Running a dedicated network cable like this is the gold standard best way of doing it. You'd connect one end to your router and the other end could either go direct to one device or to a switch to serve many devices at the other end
@@SwitchedOnNetwork So, you place two of these ones on walls and you link them togetehr through the walls with a dedicated network cable? And then you plug one to your router and the other one to the other device or splitter? Have a nice week!
Yep, that's it! Have a nice week also :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork And the cable through the wall is the same cable we use for an Ethernet connection? If such an outlet has two "holes" for Ethernet clip-ins, can two devices be plugged in and work?
Alternatively, could the two outlets be connected through the wall to the existing power lines, the same way power line adapters are, with only difference being integrated in the wall for aesthetic reasons?
Thank you again for teaching!! 😊
Hey nice videos you do. Do you think you can do something similar for a cat 8 face plate? Would greatly appreciate it . Thank you in advance
love your videos. so very helpful
Thank you so much, I'm glad you like them!
Cheers 👍
Hey there, maybe or hopefully still reading here. Just wondering if the mentioned Klein tool for punching down is also for Cat7 since the web only tells CAT3, CAT5e, and CAT6/6A?
Yep, it'll work fine!
Your videos a all 100% awesomeness
Thank you!
Tnx
Hope you find the video useful :)
I never knew there was a tool for this ive used a utility knife wouldve made life much easier
ha, glad it was useful. Next time it'll be much easier for sure!
Is there any reason i couldn't terminate both sides with a socket? For example a wall socket in my garden room and one in my house and use standard ethernet cable to take it up to my router?
None at all - that's a very sensible thing to do in lots of cases 👍
Hi, I got wall port, tester shows skipping 3,6,8 on both master and remote. Could that mean just a loose connection inside?
Strange for it to be on both 🤔 does the tester work ok on another patch lead?
Can I use this with a poe cctv switch in the middle? Camera into house into a socket and patched ethernet lead from switch into ethernet socket inside house ?
Yes, absolutely!
Thanks for your help/advice on this, I have just yesterday fitted my first 4 cables in my house between their wall jacks and they now work perfectly. I do though have 2 questions to ask if its ok, but for some reason one tester does not work but one does (on my cable which is about 20-30m in length) but both do work on just a single short cable, so does the length of cable cause problems with the testers, and if so does this mean the cable is to long? On another question the tester which does work, on both of the cables, its identically shows all LEDs lighting up 1 to 8 in order but for some reason they show dimmer from 4 to 8, is there any reason for this possibly?
You should be able to test huge long lengths of cable with the testers - I tested a ~90m cable run between my house and a neighbour's a few years ago, which wasn't far off the 100m "maximum" length you're meant to stick to for Cat6. It sounds like it might be a faulty or poor quality (sorry!) tester... or maybe it needs fresh batteries? What tester(s) are you using? Do the LEDs light dimly on both ends of the tester or just one?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork they dim only on the end without the batteries. And the tester is a cheap one. I only need it to wire up my house so i didnt want to pay too much for single use equipment. Its a Preciva Master NS-468
On crossover , the ligt sequence is different
i bought a rj45 socket today and the diagram on the back is the 568A. However looking at my ethernet cable it looks like the order of the wires are the 568B where pin 1 is green/white. Am i right in saying that although my diagram on the back shows pin one as orange/white would I actually put the Green/White in that slot?
Yeah I'd stick with B if I were you, just to keep things the same. However, the only thing that really matters it that if you wire dup your socket to T568A on one end, it's also wired up to T568A on the other end, too. Or B and B. Just not a mixture. You could have a cable with B on each end plugged into a socket which uses A and as long as the other end of that cable run is also A, you'd be fine. But to avoid confusion, since you have the option, just go with B everywhere :)
How to open hubell wall lan socket
This is more of a question, I’m in a new house, and the router is a floor under me, but we have Ethernets that come into the wall, pretty sure a cat5 and it’s not working when I plug my computers Ethernet into it, idk if it’s broken, or if I have to find the other end and plug it into the router? But I can’t find another end of a Ethernet anywhere in this house, but there is multiple Ethernet outputs in each room that don’t work
Sounds like you have cabling to all (or lots) of the rooms, which is great! They'll all need to feed into a network switch somewhere (basement maybe?) and the router connect into that. Can you not find the other ends anywhere? You could use a cable tester to see if any of the rooms are directly connected together maybe!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I found a silver box in the basement, with a crap ton of white weird stripped and screwed down, I saw the Ethernet plugged into my router that comes from the basement is a WAN, and their is only 1 and it’s plugged in, I have no idea why the ethernets around the house aren’t working
Can this be used in a wall downstairs from the modem to upstairs just to extend a wire?
Yes 👍
@@SwitchedOnNetwork thanks 🙏, can I ask what could possibly cause a speed of just over 600 mbpbs when I’m on 1GB connection. I’ve got one cable in the wall with the jacks on the wall. A cable from the modem to the wall. And a cable in the outlet upstairs. But can’t seem to get near 1GB
@jakeea test if you get a good speed connected directly into the modem with a short patch lead, to rule the internal stuff out first
@@SwitchedOnNetwork yes mate. I’ve tested the cables around the main one in the wall and they’re working fine just when connecting to the two wall jacks. Just unsure what it could be
Please can you (or anyone) tell me how to do this with a flat ethernet cable? They seem to be wired differently to traditional round ones and I can't find any crimping tool, stripper or tutorial for them. It's a flat Cat 6 cable and I just need to put a new connector on one end.
I've never done it with flat ethernet cables, sorry.
Excel is the best brand in UK
You could say that they excel...!
You keep the twist right upto the IDC tooth.
You have to test the cable itself before testing key stone
Yes that's true, you need to be sure the cables you're connecting with are all ok. Or, if you find a fault first check the cable 🤣
Can I put two cables on one wall jack .thanks
You can't join them together - you'd need to get a double keystone socket with two jacks. If you want two connections then you'll need to add in a network switch
I have two cables in socket,one from router another goes to the attic .And they left one keystone socket@@SwitchedOnNetwork
Thanks for answering
Does the wall jack matter? Can it limit speeds?
Not if installed correctly
I've just installed this today but doesn't seem to work. Used the same RJ45 keystone jack but I'm using a CAT7 cable. Not sure what's wrong.
What's up, do you get funky readouts on a tester?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork naa i haven't got a tester. just order one up now. Not sure what the problem is. when i connect the Ethernet cable to my PC id doesn't pick up nothing
Cool, once you've got the tester on it you should have a better idea of what's up. Bear in mind the issue could be at either end of the cable run.
@@SwitchedOnNetworkI've connected all wires correctly with colour coordination. A bit frustrated why it didn't work out the first time.
One of the connections may be bad or one of the wires might have got damaged - or there might be an issue with the cable elsewhere along it, not even at the ends...
Hi, thanks for the guide. I am planning on setting up 3 separate wall sockets, one RJ45 by the modem and router at the 1st floor (A), another RJ45 wall socket directly above it at the 2nd floor to use for mesh network (B), and the 3rd wall socket in the room beside the mesh at the 2nd floor (C). A - being the main point, B - 10 meters from A, and C - furthest away from A, but closest to B.
Do i need to run 2 seperate cables like A to B and A to C, where i need to rewire two wall jacks from the router A. Or could i extend two cables in a way so i get away with routing them from A to B, then B to C?
I want to prioritize latency, speed and consistency on wall jack C though, so i dont want much interference from the WiFi. Thanks :)
I would put a double socket at (A) by your switch and run two entirely separate cables; A to B and A to C.
That seems like the most logical solution, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for what type of cat6 cable i should buy for this purpose?
I'd go for CAT6A if I were you, as it allows faster speeds so is more future proof 👍
Ok sure, as Cat6a is a bit more expensive than cat6 in my country, can i buy like 30m long cable and cut the middle and ends and use it for the 4 wall jacks?
Yes 👍
So do the connections need to be stripped?
No, the tool splices them into the contacts
what if i dont have a punch down tool is it still possible to make the conection? or do i need to buy one?
You'll have a hard time making the connection without one, so I'd recommend buying one.
you can use a flat head screwdriver, it works... but the punch down tool is better.
What does black boxes in which we insert fiber after splicing called?
I've never worked with fibre I'm afraid - a bit beyond my geek/enthusiast skill level! 🤣
@@SwitchedOnNetwork No problem. 😊
I think it's called a fiber optic slice closure.
@@davidjandersen A friend of mine told me it is called enclosure or termination box but he wasn't 100% sure
@@Batman-db2vv depends on what it is you’re actually talking about. A fiber terminal can be a black box where fiber strands are spliced and set up on a utility pole to feed numerous properties in an area. Now if you’re talking about something that is spliced on a single property it can be numerous things, it depends on which point the splice is at.
Do I need to use that punch down tool or I can use just a knife?
Do it properly, use the proper tools 👌💪
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i only need one socket doing 😁
Ha, fair enough. Try a knife and if it works then you're winning!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork 😆👌
I am about to move to a new house. It's a building with an Article 4 restriction specifying no cables on the outside wall above 1m.....so the Virgin media shiz has to go in at the front of the house. This means that the modem has to be in the front room and I need ethernet sockets in 3 bedrooms and an office. Probably a noob question, but the cable run from each room needs to terminate individually in the room with the modem/switch? Is there a plate that can accommodate 4 keystones?
Second question, from the virgin media can I connect to just a switch or do I need a router specifically?
Yes, the best way to do that would be each room with an independent cable running back to a keystone in the room with the router/switch in. You should be able to find a 4x keystone plate no problem. And yes, if you're using your Virgin Media superhub as a router then just connect that to a switch and then the 4 room connections into a switch (or just use the 4 ports on the Virgin modem?). However, I'd recommend putting the Virgin box into modem-only mode and using a far better router such as Netgear Orbi (see other videos on the channel).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork thanks for the reply. I currently have vm hub in modem only modem and use eero for wifi. I was hoping to go hub > switch > eero/pc/laptop...if that makes sense. Obviously the devices via socket/keystone/cable. Just a bit confused as to whether I NEED to use a router in place of the switch. I get different views from different people.
You absolutely 100%, no question about it, NEED a router if your Hub is in modem only mode, otherwise there's nothing to ROUTE the data between the external internet and the devices on your local network
@@SwitchedOnNetwork One last question. Can you foresee any issues using the eero(s) off a wired router? They're awesome and I'd like to continue using them if possible.
I see it now. Looks like I need to put the eero into bridge mode.
I have wired the wires as shown on the Key stone but it’s not working.
Is it wired to the same standard the other end? Have you tested with a cable tester to see if all connections are good and in the right order?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork yes it’s in correct colour code. I don’t have a tester thanks.
You'll need a tester then to find out which of the 8 connections (or it could be several) is failing so you know which to repair. Link to my recommended testee is in the video description 👍
Try it with a brick wall no where to lose excess cable in 🇬🇧 brick walls are the norm,anyone can do it on the bench?
Yep, I'm in the UK. All you need to do is trim the cable to the right length so the excess fits inside the wallbox (if you're using one).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Well I guessed that but I want to take the guess out of it as it is easy to get it wrong as it is going in a four way nightmare how would you do it any clues Cheers
If I have a fibre optic broadband. I have 4 floors to wire up. I want ethernet ports in each floor so that he quality of the connection doesn't degrade as much, would I need to do this? Do I call in an electrician to do it for me? If anyone knows please let me know as I am new home maker. I am UK Based
You should be able to do it yourself without an electrician, as none of this is connected to any live electricity or anything like that. If you're in a position to run ethernet ports to each floor then I'd strongly recommend that you ALSO add fibre alongside the copper ethernet - your future self will thank you! I'd put a decent-sized gigabit (or faster) network switch next to your modem and then run CAT6a from there to each room/location in your house. If you can get a switch which also has SFP ports for fibre, do that too (see my video here for more info: ruclips.net/video/XQjP135ZtcE/видео.html) You'll then have a pretty sweet setup!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork would I have to drill through the walls and pass through the wires from there?
Almost certainly, unless you're lucky enough to already have some routes between rooms which aren't already full. When drilling through walls, just make sure there are no cables or water/gas pipes where you're going to drill! It's easy to check, and this stud finder is currently on a Black Friday deal on Amazon (amzn.to/3N0QlaK - affiliate link).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork some rooms do have ethernet sockets, but that was from the previous owner and I since changed to fibre broadband. So I need to change the sockets to fibre? Or leave them as they are and connect the new broadband cable to them? Then add the ethernet sockets in the rooms which don't have any already
You don't need to change the sockets that are already in the rooms to fibre unless you want to. Having "fibre broadband" can mean a lot of things, but it always *only* refers to the connection from your ISP to your broadband modem/router. After that, it's up to you how you want to distribute that "fibre broadband" around your house. Either using WiFi, copper cable (eg. CAT5e, CAT6, CAT6a etc.) to an ethernet port [better than WiFi, but obviously less convenient] or with fibre cabling around your house [even better than copper cable, but more expensive].
this cable and this junction box would not receive a test report from us, that you cancel the twist doesn't make it any better
Can you expand/explain?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork We have high demands on performance in the industry in Germany. we are prescribed measurement protocols. fluke measuring devices would immediately recognize the missing cable shield and the missing twist. we only work with module connectors, where the cables are kept as short as possible. I use only. Metz Connect 130910-I RJ45-Einbaumodul E-Dat CAT 6a
the customer is king
Which missing twist?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork the twisting of each pair must be carried out to the end. we only use cables where each pair is shielded.
cat 6a sftp
the measuring device only says whether the connection is correct. says nothing about the quality of the connection.
lengths over 90m are not accepted! there are still 2 patch cables. you have to stay below 100 meters.
It is not a question of a connection, but of a fast, trouble-free connection.
Ah yes, well I was only using Cat6 cable so different standards and requirements. I wasn't demonstrating with Cat6a cable for 10Gbps networks in this case.
that isnt cat7. No grounding
Làm nhanh wa
Bạn có nói rằng nó đã được thể hiện quá nhanh trong video?
You are using a 110 Punch down on Krone connections, this is not the correct way to do it, they are totally different connections, all your terminals will be messed up, there are two totally different tools for this.....jeez.
It works absolutely perfectly mate 👍
110 can be used on both, Krone punch down can only be used on Krone.
You're not supposed to untwist the pairs in the keystone jack. You'd fail the AM2 exam
How do you wire them without untwisting them?
oops! Thanks for the tip - will bear that in mind next time I wire one up :)
that cable tester is a cheap thing and not so perfect
Is there a better one you'd recommend for the job? I've had mine probably nearly 10 years and it's never let me down. It's just a continuity tester at the end of the day, doesn't need to be to complex 😁
I switched to a Maxwell 25341 tester. It works much better.
I'll check it out, thanks 👍 Happy Christmas!
What a crap wall Mount
Why do you say that?
You cant Mount the shielding for a cat6a or cat7 cable. So no 10GBase-T possible
That doesn't make it a crap wall mount, it's just that I was demonstrating with Cat6 cable which has no shielding. Cat6a or Cat7 would be outside of the scope of this video and if there's enough interest I might make a follow up video showing those options too in the future.