3D printing is amazing for hobbies like this. I love how much progress the technology is making, and the prices aren't nearly as high as they used to be. I like being sure that everything is to the same scale, and having control over how detailed it is or what it looks like. Some of the prefab stuff is pretty expensive, and you can't get a good look at it without buying and ordering it and waiting for it to show up. And even then you feel like the thing you really wanted just wasn't a choice, or was out of stock, or they only had it in all the wrong scales; and you had to settle for close enough. Them having to make everything in different scales also really limits the variety of parts available. It's just stretched too thin to be sustainable. And I never found any prefab stuff that I really liked that wasn't just a bit too expensive. It's nice that these problems are solved.
You keep selling me a 3d printer! haha. I always check the prices and review in my mind the space limitations I'm working with and my level of interest going forward. Maybe one day because you keep showing how awesome they can look.
We use 3D printers in our dental prosthetics practice. I enjoyed watching your videos. I have my late Uncle’s Marklin layout, this had old Wren 3rail, which I replaced with Marklin “K” track. The only locomotive was purchased 1952. Re building was great fun and a big learning process. Thanks for your videos.
I just added the Anycubic Mono X 6Ks to my print farm to gain a bit more build volume. Such an amazing printer for so little (relatively) money. It's time for someone to go back through the 50's - 70's Model Railroader magazine issues and create a startup that converts the highly detail blueprints provided for rolling stock, motive power, and buildings to STL files for printing!
Wow, we're genuinely stunned as well. This is another level of 3D-printing. And essentially, you can print whatever wagon you want, provided that files are available or DIY. Should model manufacturers perhaps be worried...? This is significant in such a way that it is changing modelling quite dramatically.
they are worried. i don't really know about train models, but for wargames, games workshop is taking this very seriously. and in this instance it's their own IP. now with historical models, etc. it's not like manufacturers can do a lot about it.
I would think large manufacturers consider this fringe interest still. They sell ready to run equipment, while this is basically a do it yourself kit, and not everyone is up for that, to say nothing of obtaining and learning to use the printer. The main strength of this technology is in making models that the mainstream manufacturers are ignoring, making fleets of what previously would have to be individually scratchbuilt models possible. If anyone would be concerned, it would be the specialty kit makers, since these sorts of models are more their target interest. And there is still the problem of obtaining lettering for this sort of thing.
Got new LCD for my first Mono 2, my 2nd Mono 2 is still fine, but now there is the Mono 4 with a 7" 10K LCD with 17um x 17um pixels. Crazy details for such a low cost machine.
Mixing resin is the best way to find that perfect balance! There is another swiss guy on here testing all the resins and mixing them for that sweet spot I follow his findings and works amazingly! Also never have issues with the ambient temp really being in the upstairs room it's always warm I have the mono 4k it's brilliant but just need that bigger build plate so it's the new mono 2 or the m3 there in the same ball park figure for price only you get a whole 2.0 wash amd cure station with the mono 2 just now for that price but already got one with the 4k unit! Mono 2 has latest tech with the new temp inversion whatever ignis built in and prints more 8k than 4k because of the pixel and screen ratio! It's no different from the 8k elgoo proved and tested this week
I’m getting closer to buying one, but with all of the improvements they keep adding, I think I’ll wait a little longer. The mess of the liquid still has me hesitating. Thanks for an informative tutorial!
I jumped in and don't regret it. It isn't as messy as I initially thought. Just wish I took the time to learn the proper way to do it before buying it. Realistically you can just leave the resin in the vat for as long as you want, as long as you haven't gotten failed prints. Was a complete noob, failed my first two prints but even though I am an extremely clumsy person, I have gotten it down ever since. It's been easy breeze since. However though I do believe there may be some big innovations soon
I have one and do hate the mess. I bought an FDM printer afterward and prefer it. Martin’s videos are convincing me to work my Anycubic back into the schedule.
Very interesting and informative as always from you Martin. This is pretty much what I have been waiting for. I could not justify the cost for printing accessories but for printing cars the cost benefit is obvious.
The lines on the cylinders are not layer lines, they are a result of the digital conversion process from real cylinders in CAD to the stl files. The layer lines from the printer are visible at certain angles as the light hits them, but I suspect this is also due to the magnification, a 0.03mm layer height is roughly 1/4 to 1/2 of the thickness of a human hair so pretty thin
a great video. I would love to see a video with your instructions on how to arrange the space and safety around your printer. Do you use a fan, what kind. How do you protect yourself. What brand and type of mask do you prefer when you choose a mask, when do you use it in the process ? Gloves ? This would be of great help to me and probably lots of other viewers. Thanks ! keep up the good work !
Hi! I use plastic gloves when handling the resin like shown in the videos.There is a safety note valid for each type of resin if you want to study. I use the same space and safety around my 3D-printer as my coffee brewer. It sounds to me like you never been in contact with 3D-printers and are really worried about it being something dangerous. I don´t know where you gotten such information that should be something dangerous? I have 4 different resin printers running here almost daily since 3 years. No odor, nothing. Millions of users all over the world..
@@marklinofsweden i am planning to buy one, that is also the reason for me asking you. When checking this on the net there seems to be some issues - one answer : "Liquid 3D printing resins give off fumes or vapors containing volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful to humans if inhaled into the throat or lungs. Short-term exposure to resin fumes can result in dizziness, headaches, and throat irritation." so your answer bugs me a bit....there also is "should be used only in well ventilated areas" . So do you use a fan and some kind of mask ?
Another brick in the wall.... no not the Pink Floyd song but the state of mind to get a 3D printer myself. It is an amazing new world of possibilities.
sweet tip for wood aging. take a pice of steel wool and put in a can of vinegar, leave it over night, or up to 48 hours. take out steel wool and "paint" with the vinegar. the wood get an gray/brown old look. its AMAZING. keep it in a can for many years. have also used it on my homebuildt sofa table, tv table and some shelves in my house
thank you very much for this video. I'm planning to buy a 3d printer this year and you covered many of my doubts here. Do you also design yourself? I'd like to learn about that. About designing your own pieces
Nice job Martin, I would like to see a tutorial about other cars, which have smaller wheels converted to RTR on Märklin tracks, like American gondolas. I also want to point out a problem at CJ trader, as I wanted to have a model for printing. The artist cancelled my design and had to ask for a refund. The refund I received was lower than what I paid for at the beginning. I informed CJ trader about this. Keep up the good work. Robin
Have quite sucessfully printed a rake of wagons, thankyou for your tutorials. Can you advise best place to purchase decals to suit the swedish ore wagons please.
Amazing! 🤩There is quite a bit of confusion when it comes to UV light intensity. By default is set to 100% on the printer, but I'm wondering why some people are using 80%. What do you think?
I can see the layer lines on slopes, slanted lines... but obviously this is magnified. and also i assume if there are any obvious lines, they could be sanded or filed easily. that is of the main issues i have with fdm. you get lines both on all three axis. and i haven't been able to find a good way to fill them.
What colour or mix of colours to use for Litt Mas iron ore hoppers? - Also from my Anycubic software I get a warning about too little supports and if I print the provided models indeed they end up in print failure. After adding supports via the slicer it works but then I have slight problems with removing the additional supports. Also in the V3/V4 release of the Litt Mas iron ore hopper there is np "All" stl, only the matching PNG image - so you have to add in all the needed files by hand and then readjust & align them
Have you noticed any significant difference in temperature inside the 3d printer case when covered, and outside? I put a small temp sensor inside the 3d printer case and see it warmer by 2-3 degrees. I assume this is no issue, if the room temp is in range I haven't had any issues with the temp skewed a bit to the warm side. Thanks for the content!
Hi Martin. Great video again. I'm using a Halot One 3D printer. This has a build plate of 127 x 80 x 160 mm. Do you know if its possible to print these freights and cargo cars on it?
Very interesting, thanks! I have a question about scales. If you use a 3D model designed for H0, can you just downscale it to print it for N scale? Or do you need a new model?
Hi! Thank you! Down scaling max 5-15% is possible for most models. However, down scaling from H0- to N-scale or Z is for most models not possible. It only lead to print fail and printer maintenace
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for your answer! That was my fear, that the level of details and number of polygons would cause issues. I love the N scale, but it is a bit of an extra struggle in some ways.
I have watched almost all of your videos I was going to subscribe to your Patreon but because I have asked you various questions and you never have responded I thought that you are not interested. I am even a Gold Member of Model Railroad Academy and no response. Not sure why maybe to busy. So I have a suggestion for you on your resin challenge and that is to change your resin to Siraya Tech. If you take a look at it you will find that it is one of the best and easiest resins to use and handle and no smell. I took shake my resins vigorously but there are no bubbles. The clean up for the parts is super fast. Also when taking the supports off rather than cutting them with a knife I just take a large container that I have and fill it in the sink with hot water and use a sive of basket and put my parts in there and leave them in the hot water for a few minutes and voila the supports come off like butter. No fuss no muss nice and clean I then put them into a container and lightly brush the excess resin off and let them dry and then put them in my Creality UW-02 curing station for 2 minutes and they are perfect. For my printer I use the latest Creality Halot One Plus which is probably the best machine on the market out of all the printers of the 4K category as it has the largest build plate and the best mono light system. They even ship it with its own slicer which is really easy to use for people who are just getting into the 3D Printing Hobby. Hope this helps you. Still love your videos they are some of the best on RUclips, it would just be nice to get a reply. Blessings Pastor Randy Bourque
Hi Randy, Thank you for your comment! I must agree with you that my response percentage rate here on RUclips is poor. I must also admit I´ve not seen your previous comments. I´m sorry for that! I spend 60-70 hours per week just doing video production, product development and social media interaction. But.. there´s simply not enough time here to make a good job on responding to comments and questions. All in all I get about 90-130 questions per 24h from the media channels I´m active. I put priority to the Patrons , where I would say I respond to 100% of all questions within 48 hours. The rest.. less.. Model Railroad Academy do not have any assisting functions for external creators (=me). That in practice means that I need to open every video and look for comments to respond to. Having more than 300 videos online there over the range of channels MRA provide.. It´s an impossible task for one guy. Siraya Tech.. Yes, I really like the resins from them. They are very good. However, I can´t use Siraya tech resins in a video sponsored by Anycubic.
Tjena! Vilken vätska fyller du din Wash and Cure maskinen med? Har just köpt en Anycubic Wash & Cure 3 Plus och funderar på vilken vätska som är billigast och bäst att fylla den stora dunken eller vad man ska kalla det där man lägger i de färdig printade grejerna?
The ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 2 is $400.00 CDN $ on Amazon Canada ($210 US $ from Amazon US - plus exchange/customs/duties/taxes). The ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4K is $270.00 CDN $. Is there a significant difference in these two models? Should I wait for the Mono 2 to come down in price?
tjena! dehär skummet / foam du använt i layoutens grund, vad heter den på svenska? Grymma videos, hittade din kanal nyligen och redan sett 15-20 videos!
Great problem with resin 3D printing is the question of ambient conditions. I often have to go out of the place due the fumes that it liberate. Is very harmful .
Hi i really appricieate your sharing knowledge with us i ve seen your photo on Noch site , I think you are one of the best railway modellers in the world, I am the son of an two artist's my parrents are classical painters, and I can see that your model is made with taste down to the smallest detail; I personally am building train railroad diorama for about 1 year now , i must say i didnt notice that this is taking so much effort , time consuming and money cosuming hobby , i ve got 8,5 square meters diorama maybe around 40 - 50 meters of tracks etc - i already spended that kind of money that i maight buy new car for that . But is cool from my childhood i loved trains especially those steam ones . I ve got two questions 1. how about costs of solvent filament .I am considering to buy 3d printer mostly for making railway electric traction becouse premade models are extreamly expensive , or rather just look for a different kind of material to make it? 2. Why you choose this kind lets sey closed 3d printer instead this open one like Creality ender 3d pro www.google.pl/search?q=creality+ender+3d+pro&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif9pCQueX-AhWjCRAIHdnPDA0Q_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1495&bih=754&dpr=1.25 is this one closed type like for example Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is better in some way than this open one (Creality ender 3d pro ) or what ?
3D printing is amazing for hobbies like this. I love how much progress the technology is making, and the prices aren't nearly as high as they used to be. I like being sure that everything is to the same scale, and having control over how detailed it is or what it looks like. Some of the prefab stuff is pretty expensive, and you can't get a good look at it without buying and ordering it and waiting for it to show up. And even then you feel like the thing you really wanted just wasn't a choice, or was out of stock, or they only had it in all the wrong scales; and you had to settle for close enough. Them having to make everything in different scales also really limits the variety of parts available. It's just stretched too thin to be sustainable. And I never found any prefab stuff that I really liked that wasn't just a bit too expensive. It's nice that these problems are solved.
I got this printer last week, great for bigenners and the smaller scale modellers. A whole fleet of locos and wagons in T scale in just one print.
@15:44 Many people would be interested in the parts for the DHG 500. In general, great video!
You keep selling me a 3d printer! haha. I always check the prices and review in my mind the space limitations I'm working with and my level of interest going forward. Maybe one day because you keep showing how awesome they can look.
We use 3D printers in our dental prosthetics practice. I enjoyed watching your videos. I have my late Uncle’s Marklin layout, this had old Wren 3rail, which I replaced with Marklin “K” track. The only locomotive was purchased 1952. Re building was great fun and a big learning process.
Thanks for your videos.
you are a great artist. greetings from your neighbor Finland 🚂💕
I just added the Anycubic Mono X 6Ks to my print farm to gain a bit more build volume. Such an amazing printer for so little (relatively) money.
It's time for someone to go back through the 50's - 70's Model Railroader magazine issues and create a startup that converts the highly detail blueprints provided for rolling stock, motive power, and buildings to STL files for printing!
I found Government archives have builders photos and drawing of old government railways, very handy for Steam Era modellers.
@@AlwaysCensored-xp1be Yep, the Gov archives are amazing and those glass plate photographs are great to zoom in for details.
Wow, we're genuinely stunned as well. This is another level of 3D-printing. And essentially, you can print whatever wagon you want, provided that files are available or DIY. Should model manufacturers perhaps be worried...? This is significant in such a way that it is changing modelling quite dramatically.
they are worried. i don't really know about train models, but for wargames, games workshop is taking this very seriously. and in this instance it's their own IP. now with historical models, etc. it's not like manufacturers can do a lot about it.
I would think large manufacturers consider this fringe interest still. They sell ready to run equipment, while this is basically a do it yourself kit, and not everyone is up for that, to say nothing of obtaining and learning to use the printer. The main strength of this technology is in making models that the mainstream manufacturers are ignoring, making fleets of what previously would have to be individually scratchbuilt models possible. If anyone would be concerned, it would be the specialty kit makers, since these sorts of models are more their target interest. And there is still the problem of obtaining lettering for this sort of thing.
I greatly appreciate your tutorials Sir. You do a most wonderful job incorparating fun parrelled with education, thank you kindly for your efforts.
Got new LCD for my first Mono 2, my 2nd Mono 2 is still fine, but now there is the Mono 4 with a 7" 10K LCD with 17um x 17um pixels. Crazy details for such a low cost machine.
Mixing resin is the best way to find that perfect balance! There is another swiss guy on here testing all the resins and mixing them for that sweet spot I follow his findings and works amazingly! Also never have issues with the ambient temp really being in the upstairs room it's always warm I have the mono 4k it's brilliant but just need that bigger build plate so it's the new mono 2 or the m3 there in the same ball park figure for price only you get a whole 2.0 wash amd cure station with the mono 2 just now for that price but already got one with the 4k unit! Mono 2 has latest tech with the new temp inversion whatever ignis built in and prints more 8k than 4k because of the pixel and screen ratio! It's no different from the 8k elgoo proved and tested this week
Thanks for review! 👍
Print quality, indeed, is amazing!
Hello, great video!, about the bubles, don't worry the preasure of the build plate will purge them. ty!
I’m getting closer to buying one, but with all of the improvements they keep adding, I think I’ll wait a little longer. The mess of the liquid still has me hesitating. Thanks for an informative tutorial!
same , but seeing results like this makes me more confident about jumping in .
I jumped in and don't regret it. It isn't as messy as I initially thought. Just wish I took the time to learn the proper way to do it before buying it. Realistically you can just leave the resin in the vat for as long as you want, as long as you haven't gotten failed prints. Was a complete noob, failed my first two prints but even though I am an extremely clumsy person, I have gotten it down ever since. It's been easy breeze since. However though I do believe there may be some big innovations soon
If you keep waiting for further improvement you will never move forward. By one and live with it. Later you can always upgrade.
I have one and do hate the mess. I bought an FDM printer afterward and prefer it. Martin’s videos are convincing me to work my Anycubic back into the schedule.
Great video! Thanks Martin.
Hej. Du är den enda på youtube vad jag har sett som förklarar hur printern fungerar.😍.älskar dina filmer. Ps håller inte ens på med tåg.😇
The quality is amazing.
Very interesting and informative as always from you Martin. This is pretty much what I have been waiting for. I could not justify the cost for printing accessories but for printing cars the cost benefit is obvious.
You are a Master. Great job.
Brilliant video again, well done
Fantastic tutorial ! Thank you !
many thanks for the information. just started with a 3D printer so your video's are so helpful
👍👍👍
Thanks for review Martin!
Thanks for the information into 3D Printing, will help me choose the simplest one for me. I’m not tech savvy.
Thank you Martin, you are very convincing!
Thanks for explications 👍 I'm French .
Thanks! Really good to see.
Cool Video👍🏻☺️ Greetings from Austria 😉
The lines on the cylinders are not layer lines, they are a result of the digital conversion process from real cylinders in CAD to the stl files. The layer lines from the printer are visible at certain angles as the light hits them, but I suspect this is also due to the magnification, a 0.03mm layer height is roughly 1/4 to 1/2 of the thickness of a human hair so pretty thin
a great video. I would love to see a video with your instructions on how to arrange the space and safety around your printer. Do you use a fan, what kind. How do you protect yourself. What brand and type of mask do you prefer when you choose a mask, when do you use it in the process ? Gloves ? This would be of great help to me and probably lots of other viewers. Thanks ! keep up the good work !
Hi! I use plastic gloves when handling the resin like shown in the videos.There is a safety note valid for each type of resin if you want to study. I use the same space and safety around my 3D-printer as my coffee brewer. It sounds to me like you never been in contact with 3D-printers and are really worried about it being something dangerous. I don´t know where you gotten such information that should be something dangerous? I have 4 different resin printers running here almost daily since 3 years. No odor, nothing. Millions of users all over the world..
@@marklinofsweden U have to use nitril gloves with resin!
@@marklinofsweden i am planning to buy one, that is also the reason for me asking you. When checking this on the net there seems to be some issues - one answer :
"Liquid 3D printing resins give off fumes or vapors containing volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful to humans if inhaled into the throat or lungs. Short-term exposure to resin fumes can result in dizziness, headaches, and throat irritation." so your answer bugs me a bit....there also is "should be used only in well ventilated areas" . So do you use a fan and some kind of mask ?
There is lots of misinformation on the internet.
@@marklinofsweden All who use resin printer say the same... Use nitril gloves?
Another brick in the wall.... no not the Pink Floyd song but the state of mind to get a 3D printer myself. It is an amazing new world of possibilities.
sweet tip for wood aging. take a pice of steel wool and put in a can of vinegar, leave it over night, or up to 48 hours. take out steel wool and "paint" with the vinegar. the wood get an gray/brown old look. its AMAZING. keep it in a can for many years. have also used it on my homebuildt sofa table, tv table and some shelves in my house
thank you very much for this video. I'm planning to buy a 3d printer this year and you covered many of my doubts here. Do you also design yourself? I'd like to learn about that. About designing your own pieces
Nice job Martin, I would like to see a tutorial about other cars, which have smaller wheels converted to RTR on Märklin tracks, like American gondolas.
I also want to point out a problem at CJ trader, as I wanted to have a model for printing. The artist cancelled my design and had to ask for a refund. The refund I received was lower than what I paid for at the beginning. I informed CJ trader about this. Keep up the good work. Robin
Thank you!
Very informative video. Do you have settings for Saturn 2 8K also?
Again another very informative detailed video. I admire your enthusiasm !! One note tho. What do you do as to lettering on the cars printed/painted ?
Have quite sucessfully printed a rake of wagons, thankyou for your tutorials. Can you advise best place to purchase decals to suit the swedish ore wagons please.
I’d like to add a couple cars for my Minex collection. Maybe a tank wagon and some sort of flat car. Haven’t found anything so far.
Amazing! 🤩There is quite a bit of confusion when it comes to UV light intensity. By default is set to 100% on the printer, but I'm wondering why some people are using 80%. What do you think?
U cant set the UV level from the printer? Only the curing time in the slicer.
@@allffrommars6019On the Mono 4K you can.
I can see the layer lines on slopes, slanted lines... but obviously this is magnified. and also i assume if there are any obvious lines, they could be sanded or filed easily. that is of the main issues i have with fdm. you get lines both on all three axis. and i haven't been able to find a good way to fill them.
Those aren’t lines, but faces. Not enough faces made on the cylinders.
What colour or mix of colours to use for Litt Mas iron ore hoppers? - Also from my Anycubic software I get a warning about too little supports and if I print the provided models indeed they end up in print failure. After adding supports via the slicer it works but then I have slight problems with removing the additional supports. Also in the V3/V4 release of the Litt Mas iron ore hopper there is np "All" stl, only the matching PNG image - so you have to add in all the needed files by hand and then readjust & align them
Very neat, these printers just get cheaper and cheaper.
Awesome video as usual. Are there any noxious fumes, can you print inside your house?
I'd suggest printing in a well-ventilated part of your house. There are however resins that aren't toxic
Have you noticed any significant difference in temperature inside the 3d printer case when covered, and outside? I put a small temp sensor inside the 3d printer case and see it warmer by 2-3 degrees. I assume this is no issue, if the room temp is in range I haven't had any issues with the temp skewed a bit to the warm side. Thanks for the content!
How does it car run? You showed nicely how you made it, but not how it runs and or compares to a bought one from the collection.
Hi! The car has the same design as manufacturer cars, so the operational aspects are same.
Hi Martin. Great video again. I'm using a Halot One 3D printer. This has a build plate of 127 x 80 x 160 mm. Do you know if its possible to print these freights and cargo cars on it?
Hi Hans, Thank you! 127 x 80 x 160mm. Yes it should be possible.
Where do you buy the wheels from that you use for the wagons? :)
Wow!
What kind of colour do you use? Colournumber? Blended?
YOU ARE THE MAN... GEORGE FROM GREECE
Great video. Do you know of any n scale stl providers
Pensez vous à présenter un wagon citerne? En stl
Very interesting, thanks! I have a question about scales. If you use a 3D model designed for H0, can you just downscale it to print it for N scale? Or do you need a new model?
Hi! Thank you!
Down scaling max 5-15% is possible for most models. However, down scaling from H0- to N-scale or Z is for most models not possible. It only lead to print fail and printer maintenace
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for your answer! That was my fear, that the level of details and number of polygons would cause issues. I love the N scale, but it is a bit of an extra struggle in some ways.
Hi can you please answear my questions down below about 2 x types of 3d priners - thank you in advance
I have watched almost all of your videos I was going to subscribe to your Patreon but because I have asked you various questions and you never have responded I thought that you are not interested. I am even a Gold Member of Model Railroad Academy and no response. Not sure why maybe to busy.
So I have a suggestion for you on your resin challenge and that is to change your resin to Siraya Tech. If you take a look at it you will find that it is one of the best and easiest resins to use and handle and no smell. I took shake my resins vigorously but there are no bubbles. The clean up for the parts is super fast. Also when taking the supports off rather than cutting them with a knife I just take a large container that I have and fill it in the sink with hot water and use a sive of basket and put my parts in there and leave them in the hot water for a few minutes and voila the supports come off like butter. No fuss no muss nice and clean I then put them into a container and lightly brush the excess resin off and let them dry and then put them in my Creality UW-02 curing station for 2 minutes and they are perfect. For my printer I use the latest Creality Halot One Plus which is probably the best machine on the market out of all the printers of the 4K category as it has the largest build plate and the best mono light system. They even ship it with its own slicer which is really easy to use for people who are just getting into the 3D Printing Hobby.
Hope this helps you.
Still love your videos they are some of the best on RUclips, it would just be nice to get a reply.
Blessings
Pastor Randy Bourque
Hi Randy, Thank you for your comment! I must agree with you that my response percentage rate here on RUclips is poor. I must also admit I´ve not seen your previous comments. I´m sorry for that! I spend 60-70 hours per week just doing video production, product development and social media interaction. But.. there´s simply not enough time here to make a good job on responding to comments and questions. All in all I get about 90-130 questions per 24h from the media channels I´m active. I put priority to the Patrons , where I would say I respond to 100% of all questions within 48 hours. The rest.. less.. Model Railroad Academy do not have any assisting functions for external creators (=me). That in practice means that I need to open every video and look for comments to respond to. Having more than 300 videos online there over the range of channels MRA provide.. It´s an impossible task for one guy. Siraya Tech.. Yes, I really like the resins from them. They are very good. However, I can´t use Siraya tech resins in a video sponsored by Anycubic.
👏🏼👍🏼
Can you make clear windows voor passenger coaches?
You can if you use clear resin.
How well does the resin hold up to handling and overall longevity?........I ask because some resins are very fragile and break very easily.
Tjena! Vilken vätska fyller du din Wash and Cure maskinen med? Har just köpt en
Anycubic Wash & Cure 3 Plus och funderar på vilken vätska som är billigast och bäst att fylla den stora dunken eller vad man ska kalla det där man lägger i de färdig printade grejerna?
Jag kör T-röd på 5liters dunk från Biltema
The ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 2 is $400.00 CDN $ on Amazon Canada ($210 US $ from Amazon US - plus exchange/customs/duties/taxes). The ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4K is $270.00 CDN $. Is there a significant difference in these two models? Should I wait for the Mono 2 to come down in price?
tjena! dehär skummet / foam du använt i layoutens grund, vad heter den på svenska? Grymma videos, hittade din kanal nyligen och redan sett 15-20 videos!
XPS isoleringsskiva. Hornbach har dem tex.
I can see the layers.
You can additionally sand them down where possible. But these layers are so tiny that it doesn't even matter.
Hej. Du som har prövat både DLP-skrivare och den här nya skrivaren, vilken föredrar du? / Jonas Furuholm. Tandsbyn Jämtland.
DLP.. Inte bra! Mono2.. Oväntat bra!
@@marklinofsweden Okej, tack för svar.
Hej! En fråga, har du erfarenhet av de med vatten tvättbara resinerna? Funkar de till exempelvis kontaktledningsstolpar? Mvh P-O
Mono 2 or mono 2x you have?
I have both, but in this video I´m using the Mono 2 (blue hood)
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for the reply. 🤗
Great problem with resin 3D printing is the question of ambient conditions. I often have to go out of the place due the fumes that it liberate. Is very harmful .
I want one to work but I don't have all the money who can help me I'm in Colombia,
🇨🇵👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️😊
It's not for 189$, it is for 410$. Little difference....
Then you must be looking at the wrong mashine. Mono2 has blue hood and costs $189-199
@@marklinofsweden I follow your link. So when you're right, your link is wrong.
@@harvantol8665 No link works fine 199 Dollars... Amazon 220€
You literally explained nothing
Hi i really appricieate your sharing knowledge with us i ve seen your photo on Noch site , I think you are one of the best railway modellers in the world, I am the son of an two artist's my parrents are classical painters, and I can see that your model is made with taste down to the smallest detail; I personally am building train railroad diorama for about 1 year now , i must say i didnt notice that this is taking so much effort , time consuming and money cosuming hobby , i ve got 8,5 square meters diorama maybe around 40 - 50 meters of tracks etc - i already spended that kind of money that i maight buy new car for that . But is cool from my childhood i loved trains especially those steam ones .
I ve got two questions
1. how about costs of solvent filament .I am considering to buy 3d printer mostly for making railway electric traction becouse premade models are extreamly expensive , or rather just look for a different kind of material to make it?
2. Why you choose this kind lets sey closed 3d printer instead this open one like Creality ender 3d pro www.google.pl/search?q=creality+ender+3d+pro&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif9pCQueX-AhWjCRAIHdnPDA0Q_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1495&bih=754&dpr=1.25
is this one closed type like for example Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is better in some way than this open one (Creality ender 3d pro ) or what ?