Wow! 3D printing is really changing things rapidly. The cost comparison is staggering. Beautifully done Martin. Thanks for sharing. Merry Christmas to you and your family and friends, Martin. And thanks for all the interesting, informative, and entertaining videos. See ya.
It is a joy to watch you on RUclips and your enthusiasm is overwhelming and sincere. I would almost fetch my Fleischmann trains and vast amount of rail and track switches out of their storing place after 50 years if I would find time.
I could not have found a greater teacher. Just in the process of starting my new layout after a few years hiatus (30). I have already compiled a great list of your videos in my step by step to do list. This last one was one I was waiting for my past catenary work was not exactly the most realistic. Keep it up Martin (glad to be a Patreon)
My dream layout is a representation of the Pennsylvania Railroad in the Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, USA area. I have been going crazy as to how I was going to model the catenary in the depot area, and the Enola Yard area across the Susquehanna River. You have solved that for me. Now to purchase a 3D printer!
Martin! I can't begin to tell you how much I enjoy your videos! Your approach to teaching us how to complete these projects are beyond wonderful. Even though I am an O gauge model railroader I find your video inspiring. They are the absolute best! Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort in creating what I consider top quality video instruction.
Hi Martin. We have been following your channel since some time but never commented. You have very much inspired us to go for Märklin K-track for building our planned layout. 3-Rail has always had our preference and your highly proficient ways have demonstrated that more than enough detail is to be had for that system. What a diamond of inspiration you are. Thank you so much and Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Thank you Martin for the catenary update. I always watch you, and your overbubbling personality makes watching you a pleasure. I don't have a 3D printer yet, but I have fabricated my own using brass rod (3/32" and 1/16" dia) for masts and code 80 nickel silver rail for the contact wire. It really doesn't look too bad, though definitely not "prototype". I now have 33' of cat made and it just has to be installed. I'm in the construction stage so any new ideas are welcome. Since you are Swedish, my favorite electric locomotive is the SJ series Dg, 1-C-1 with the original wooden body. I built a scale model of it in 1-1/2" to the foot scale and is powered by a battery electric motor. I have since "graduated" to Marklin HO with M track. I believe I saw a model of the SJ Dg loco on your layout.
Beautifully done as always. Thank you for discussing cost. Perhaps it is time for some of the manufacturers to start investing in 3D printers. They have been holding us to ransom for too many years. Best wishes for Christmas. See you next year.
Oh man, that cg trader resource is amazing, I have been really frustrated trying to find modern elements from myminifactory. Also, I love you exploring what this thing is and how it works; I feel like giving an excuse to try to understand the humble things in the world is the best part of hobby modeling.
Brilliant video 👍 and most importantly you actually tell us how much it cost you 👍👍👍 Thank you so much I will definitely have to get a 3D printer for my railway. Keep these videos coming 👍👍👍
Супер!!! Всё очень красиво у вас получается. Я давно уже смотрю ваш конал. У вас очень много полезной информации. Благодаря вам научился делать разные вещи для своего макета.ОГРОМНОЕ СПАСИБО!!!👍👍👍
Fantastic all your videos. I am also Märklin's fan since 64 years. I am Belgian. Marklin is very popular in Belgium but... 2 rail progress mostly in the clubs. I am making a lot of experiences to make trees and rocks. The dry flower of hortansias when cutting the petals have a very good base to make trees. You can ad some little pieces of zeeqium or little pieces of filter from kitchen hot. For rocks, I use pieces of foam and put plaster on it. Not the speed plaster, but the plaster for walls,Carving the plaster, to obtain more sharps rocks. before it become to hard. After painting I brush the stops in relief. They are becoming white. You can also make variations on rocks by brushing less or hard with a metallic brush. Sincerely yours Guy Marlé from Waterloo Belgium
Thank you very much for this outstanding tutorial, Martin. I'm gonna buy that 3D printer now. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and all your loved ones.!!!
Nice work! For the top wires you can use "EZ-line", i have used it for my norwegian old telephone lines (similar to the old ones in sweden with white insulators).
Thanks for sharing this. Very usefull. I have a 3D resin printer and I did some lamp poles myself, but I was not considering catenary, due to considering that resin would be too fragile. However, after watching your video, I'll definitely give it a try.
Thanks for this tip, as I was thinking on how I was going to do the catenary on a budget, since it's hard to get a hand of the masts that I require, and with the number of masts I need it's going to be very expensive. I am/was using Sommerfelt system, due to its strength and range, but my local dealer is extremely slow in restocking items, like 8 years for some items. This will speed things up, plus I'll need to work out how to use wire instead of plastic for the arms.
So many uses for 3D printers !! One day maybe I can afford one. Most of my catenary was bought cheap on ebay.The majority is Marklin,both M & K types.Also some Sommerfeldt,Vollmer and a batch of Kleinbahn who do the Austrian types.To do the genuine swiss catenary system the price is a king's ransom so may have to wait for that printer. I also run trams (strassenbahn) so when I get around to it that is another type.
Excellent video this is why I bought a 3D printer. You mention that you use the Anycubic Craftsman resin have you found it to be a better resin for scale models? I have only used the Elegoo Mars resin and small details can be brittle. I will try the Anycubic Craftsman if that is your recommendation.
These are as robust as the injection molded plastic items available at the dealers, but not as robust as the metal parts from Märklin or Sommerfeldt. However… Catenary reduces ”playability” of the Model Railroad and I wouldn’t recommend it for kids..
I have not seen any yet. The challange is not the detail or the small size. The challange is to maintain a reasonable mechanicle strength. Maybe using really though resin. The drawback then is looong print time + poor detail.
Absolutely exceptional. Thank you very much Martin. By the way, how do you fix the pantograph two millimeters below the catenary? with an invisible thread?
Thank you! I put a spacer of 2mm between the overhead wire and the panthograph. Then when clamped there I add a drop of fast set glue in the hinge.. :) Hehe.. yeah I know.. It’s not optimal, but very easy.
Good job! It'll be great if you have a solution to create your own catenary wire in brass, for example, to make it useful for analogic system. I understand that in digital system catenary is only for atrezzo. Thanks.
He he.. Det kan man tycka, men då har man inte läst läxan gällande RUclips. Tyska tåg i videon = +16% fler visningar. BR103 = +8% ytterligare visningar. Så.. Nej.
Nice. You say that your panto is about 1 or 2 mm below the electric line. Do you glue the panto to stay at that height? Can your panto still go down, how did you do that. Regards peter
Like always a great job done. Allow me one question please. Are these cheap catenary posts somewhere for sale ? I ask because I'm a absolutely non-understanding computer person. So also working with a 3D printer is not exactly my thing. Therefore I want to buy these catenary things. Thanks for reply. Greetings from the Čech Republic 🇨🇿 and stay healthy 😷.
Hi! The reason for low cost is 3D-print at home. If you feel you cannot bridge the knowledge gap for computers, then you will continue to use manufacturer items from Märklin, Viessmann or Sommerfeldt. Check with your local dealer for catenary items.
Thank you! I put a 2mm spacer between the catanary and pantograph, so it’s clamped there. Then I add one drop of fast set glue.. he he.. Yeah.. I know.. Not optimal, but fast and easy
Hi Dan! I used both printers. They produce the same level of detail. All items has been test-printed on both, so it shouldn’t matter which one you use. The Mono 4k is twice as fast though.
Bonjour Je vous suis depuis plusieurs mois et je dois vous avouer que vos vidéos sont vraiment géniales, on y apprend énormément d'astuces , pour vos prochaines vidéos serait il possible d'avoir des sous-titres en français d'avance je vous remercie. Bonne continuation dans votre projet et merci de nous faire partager votre expérience.
I was about to ask how robust those printed masts were, but I realised the answer was "Who cares! Just print some spares." How are the outriggers (horizontal arms) bearing up under the load of the wires?
Hi! It all has to do with the resin you chose to use. I use this Anycubic Craftsman Resin which is strong and durable. It does require 1-2sec longer exposure of every layer = longer print time. The outriggers are 0.7mm diam and carries the wires without any problems. They could probably be twice as heavy without any issues.
Hi Martin, as ever very inspiring. I did not buy a 3D printer yet but asked a friend to print a few items that I bought from CGTrader's. He started with the sandbox. He noticed that the scale of the sandbox was 140 x 90 x 98 mm which is neither H0 scale, nor full scale. Do you have full scale dimensions for me? I do not know what causes the problem and I do not know whether this dimension difference is caused due to the use of a non-Anycubic printer. Do you expect that the same scale difference will also pop up for the catenary sets or benches? I hope that you can provide an answer.
Thank you! I haven’t tried the Elegoo Saturn so I cannot say. One thing I like for sure with the Mono 4k is the speed. It prints stuff that takes 8h in the DLP about twice as fast using the same exposure time. That plus excellent detail is the strenghts.
I am a bit concerned about the stability of the wire holding beams. a lot of resins can be quite brittle and those pieces are quite thin for the weight they hold. How do they hold up for you so far? Had any of them break? I would probably use retail available beams on the 3d printed masts. (about 2€ per piece from viessman for the german versions) Or look into modifying the 3d print so I can put on some metal wires into the isolator parts. maybe with a rig one could bend metal and solder it together to create a little more sturdy beams for the swiss variations. something else I am thinking about is to create custom overhead wires, as most commercially available wires are just way too thick. prototypical they should be about 0.12mm in H0, but most commercial available are 0.5mm or more
Hi! These beams/masts/poles have now been standing for 3 months. The issues you are referring to is because use of wrong type of resin. Anycubic Craftsman Resin requires longer (+1-2 secs) exposure = longer print time, but is much stronger and tougher compared to other resins like ”3D Jake Basic” or ”Frozen Aqua-Gray 4k”. So.. No these do not break during normal assembly.
I would solder the wires together ahead of fixing them to the masts. The masts are strong enough to hold the wires also with pantograph picking up current. I’m curious why you want to do that though? The last 3 electric locomotives I bought do not have an internal electrical connection to the pantographs, so they cannot pick up current that way. In digital system there is also no point to do that.
Is this Catenary strictly decorative or is it live wire? I'm planning on running my GG1's from live overhead wire. This will be in N-Scale. Merry Christmas!
I understand and agree. Then I assume your layout has wider curve radiuses than 600mm all over? Otherwise the distance between the catenary masts will not be very realistic either..
@@marklinofsweden I do not have a layout, yet. But what I have in mind will not have any catenary and will use only short rolling stock, in order to attenuate the unrealistic effect of sharp curves. I have yet to see one single layout with a realistic catenary on it...
What is “realistic’ is subjective and depends on the expectation of the viewer, I’m very happy with the look of the working old Märklin catenary. I rather have oversized working catenary than none at all.
With 3D-printing becoming ever-more accesible and affordable, the posibilities are endless, if you have access to a printer. The modelling community needs to be careful though and catenary is an excellent example of what I mean. If we can buy a printer, the other bits and pieces, and all the consumbables required, for the same price as "ready-to-run" catenary, sales of off-the-shelf products are going to drop dramatically. I don't see companies like Fleischmann, Roco and Marklin slashing their prices, so it's quite possible these companies may stop production of items like these, along with various other bits and pieces which lend themselves to home printing. This is all very well, as long as we all have access to a printer - I for one do not.😒 This isn't meant as criticism, of anyone at all, but just simply a warning: are we maybe getting a wee bit too smart for our own good?😁
A philosophic comment! Yes, I have considered that thought too before publishing this series of videos about 3D-printing. I have waited one year actually.. Luke Towan and Kaithy Millatt and many others has used 3D-print since long in almost every video.. So okay.. Here’s my conclusion: 1) The European model railroad hobby will totally die if Märklin stops producing items for whatever reason. They are driving the hobby. The others live because of it, no matter what your feelings are for Märklin brand. 2) 3D-print will be BIG in the Model Railroad hobby for sure. Not now so much, because the core audience is between 50-70 years and they are currently( in general) not so skilled with computers and thereby 3D-printers. BUT as time goes by, the people who grew up with a computer in the bedroom will eventually become 50-70 and thereby become the core of the hobby. Until then the majority will continue to buy manufacturer stuff from the shops. 3) The 3D-print technology will eventually erase the business totally for the manufacturers doing plastic kits and other simple plastic molded stuff. That is already happening now. However.. The trains are a completely different ballgame. Here is complex shapes, multiple coloring in advanced paintschemes and super detailed screen print neccesary just to create the outside. Then.. The complex drive train with gears and motors to obtain a smooth and realistic movement. Based on this I decided to activly promote and introduce 3D-print. The market will change, but the key-players will stand strong and hopefully even benefit from the new dimension of miniature world creation.
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for such a comprehensive response Martin. You've obviously given this some thought and I agree with you. I hope the manufacturers are planning ahead, at least as much as you are. I would hope that, as 3d-printing becomes more and more affordable for home-users, the big manufacturers will embrace that same technology and change their approach to certain aspects of this wonderful hobby. If 𝒘𝒆 can produce stuff more cheaply, so can they. If they start to utilise the cheaper methods of production, surely prices can come down. Lower prices should guarantee them a share in the market, even as more people start to make their own. Prices in the UK are climbing 𝒘𝒂𝒚 too fast and I assume the same is true on the continent. The big guys need to be very careful; every 3d-printer sold to a hobbyist means less stuff they will buy off-the-shelf. Your price comparison for the catenary should be a wake-up call to Marklin, Hornby, and all the others. If 𝒚𝒐𝒖 can make 𝑏𝑒𝑡𝑡𝑒𝑟 catenary, much, much cheaper than theirs, so can the rest of us - except me of course, as I don't have the technology .......... yet.😂 Cheers for now, Dougie.
@@2H80vids We’ll see what products the Modelrailroad3D team develops in the future. To my understanding they are more interested in develop items for niche markets, which previously not been available. Not so much trying to duplicate the main stream items from current German manufacturers. However, it’s a great combo for me to work with both a leading 3D-print manufacturer and an ambitious development team of 3D-models. I’m also convinced that it will be of benefit for the RUclips audience.
I agree on this philosophy of the comment and the reply. I have been watching 3D for over a year and its clear it will have some very good uses like this catenary system. I have 7 packs of Dapol masts to install, 10 masts per pack but of course they are a generic design. The detail and options on your system is very interesting now as I really enjoy building kits. If the printer and resin comes in around 250 euros then it starts to look like a very good project to start with. Thanks for the video and all the detailed information
Nice video....grettings from zagreb Croatia
Wow! 3D printing is really changing things rapidly. The cost comparison is staggering. Beautifully done Martin. Thanks for sharing. Merry Christmas to you and your family and friends, Martin. And thanks for all the interesting, informative, and entertaining videos. See ya.
Especially now with the new 8k printers coming out. I’m a firm believer in scratch building.. but something like this it’s a no brainer.
It is a joy to watch you on RUclips and your enthusiasm is overwhelming and sincere. I would almost fetch my Fleischmann trains and vast amount of rail and track switches out of their storing place after 50 years if I would find time.
I could not have found a greater teacher. Just in the process of starting my new layout after a few years hiatus (30). I have already compiled a great list of your videos in my step by step to do list. This last one was one I was waiting for my past catenary work was not exactly the most realistic. Keep it up Martin (glad to be a Patreon)
Fantastic! Greetings from Vienna to Sweden!
My dream layout is a representation of the Pennsylvania Railroad in the Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, USA area. I have been going crazy as to how I was going to model the catenary in the depot area, and the Enola Yard area across the Susquehanna River. You have solved that for me. Now to purchase a 3D printer!
As a person that likes to learn a little about everything this was one of those valuable trinkets. Thank you so much sir
Martin! I can't begin to tell you how much I enjoy your videos! Your approach to teaching us how to complete these projects are beyond wonderful. Even though I am an O gauge model railroader I find your video inspiring. They are the absolute best! Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort in creating what I consider top quality video instruction.
Thank you for the kind comment! I have 24 new videos in plan for 2022. I hope you’ll enjoy them too. Merry Christmas!
@@marklinofsweden .....Thank you Martin! And a very Merry Christmas to You and Yours.
Snyggt jobbat. Ser helt fantastiskt ut. Så realistiskt. Du har verkligen ett öga för detaljer. God Jul och Gott Nytt År
Hi Martin. We have been following your channel since some time but never commented. You have very much inspired us to go for Märklin K-track for building our planned layout. 3-Rail has always had our preference and your highly proficient ways have demonstrated that more than enough detail is to be had for that system. What a diamond of inspiration you are. Thank you so much and Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Thank you Linda! I’m happy to hear you like the videos! I wish you Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Thank you Martin for the catenary update. I always watch you, and your overbubbling personality makes watching you a pleasure. I don't have a 3D printer yet, but I have fabricated my own using brass rod (3/32" and 1/16" dia) for masts and code 80 nickel silver rail for the contact wire. It really doesn't look too bad, though definitely not "prototype". I now have 33' of cat made and it just has to be installed. I'm in the construction stage so any new ideas are welcome. Since you are Swedish, my favorite electric locomotive is the SJ series Dg, 1-C-1 with the original wooden body. I built a scale model of it in 1-1/2" to the foot scale and is powered by a battery electric motor. I have since "graduated" to Marklin HO with M track. I believe I saw a model of the SJ Dg loco on your layout.
Gracias Martín eres el Magibert de nuestra afición.
Beautifully done as always. Thank you for discussing cost. Perhaps it is time for some of the manufacturers to start investing in 3D printers. They have been holding us to ransom for too many years. Best wishes for Christmas. See you next year.
Merry Christmas 🎅 and Happy New Year...
Wow tack för en bra video och DIY printout och jag önskar dig och din familj God Jul och Gott Nytt År i förväg.
Oh man, that cg trader resource is amazing, I have been really frustrated trying to find modern elements from myminifactory. Also, I love you exploring what this thing is and how it works; I feel like giving an excuse to try to understand the humble things in the world is the best part of hobby modeling.
Helt fantastiska fina arbeten du gör ! Tack så hjärtliga mycket för dessa filmer du lägger ut.Många varma hjärtliga hälsningar.👏🙏🤗
very impressive - thank you for sharing
Thanks. The sacks are just brilliant. I have been thinking of ways to make them for ages.
Brilliant video 👍 and most importantly you actually tell us how much it cost you 👍👍👍 Thank you so much I will definitely have to get a 3D printer for my railway. Keep these videos coming 👍👍👍
This is really a breakthrough for making catenary systems! I can really recommend this method!
These blinking tail lights look fascinating for me.
As always great video.
I love the channel.
Супер!!! Всё очень красиво у вас получается. Я давно уже смотрю ваш конал. У вас очень много полезной информации. Благодаря вам научился делать разные вещи для своего макета.ОГРОМНОЕ СПАСИБО!!!👍👍👍
Nice details! Looks amazing and best thing - low price..
Another one great tutorial video! 👍
Mate. They look bloody brilliant. Never thought about printing them, now all I've got to do is find a program to run Australian catenary. Well done.
Wonderful how to video. Thanks Much!
Fantastic all your videos. I am also Märklin's fan since 64 years.
I am Belgian. Marklin is very popular in Belgium but... 2 rail progress mostly in the clubs.
I am making a lot of experiences to make trees and rocks.
The dry flower of hortansias when cutting the petals have a very good base to make trees. You can ad some little pieces of zeeqium or little pieces of filter from kitchen hot.
For rocks, I use pieces of foam and put plaster on it. Not the speed plaster, but the plaster for walls,Carving the plaster, to obtain more sharps rocks. before it become to hard. After painting I brush the stops in relief. They are becoming white. You can also make variations on rocks by brushing less or hard with a metallic brush.
Sincerely yours
Guy Marlé from Waterloo Belgium
Great video! You do an excellent job of explaining the process. Merry Christmas!
Well done Martin very informative video as per usual 👍
Holy Moly, this is really impressing! Times changed..
This was great and you did an excellent job of explaining the whole process. Thanks for sharing this and have a Merry Christmas.
Wow nice upload today. Thanks for sharing.
Great video thank you
Wow, this is magic! Thank you for sharing your ideas and Happy New Year!
Thank you very much for this outstanding tutorial, Martin. I'm gonna buy that 3D printer now. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and all your loved ones.!!!
Wonderful video. I have four 3D resin printer and use them for vehicle, rolling stock, buildings and scenic accessories. Thank You
Merry Christmas and thanks for all your videos this year.
Thank you for sharing this website. Perfect!
Excellent video. Martin. Cheers and God jul.
I love your chanel keep the vids coming. Happy Christmas to you and your family from here in the UK. All the best... Anthony 🇬🇧😃🎅🍺🍺👍
Brilliant Martin. Nicely done. Too bad the photon printer offer is sold out. Oh wait, you can sellect other 😃
Wow thats a big saver catenary and parts are so expensive great video cheers
Nice work! For the top wires you can use "EZ-line", i have used it for my norwegian old telephone lines (similar to the old ones in sweden with white insulators).
Thanks for sharing this. Very usefull. I have a 3D resin printer and I did some lamp poles myself, but I was not considering catenary, due to considering that resin would be too fragile. However, after watching your video, I'll definitely give it a try.
Thank you. This program was very interesting 👍 👍 👍
Nice Video. Do you have an idea abour long term properties of the "Ausleger"?
I recorded this video in mid September, so not really. Only 3-4 months. So far all good..
@@marklinofsweden Thx!
Thanks for this tip, as I was thinking on how I was going to do the catenary on a budget, since it's hard to get a hand of the masts that I require, and with the number of masts I need it's going to be very expensive. I am/was using Sommerfelt system, due to its strength and range, but my local dealer is extremely slow in restocking items, like 8 years for some items. This will speed things up, plus I'll need to work out how to use wire instead of plastic for the arms.
So many uses for 3D printers !! One day maybe I can afford one. Most of my catenary was bought cheap on ebay.The majority is Marklin,both M & K types.Also some Sommerfeldt,Vollmer and a batch of Kleinbahn who do the Austrian types.To do the genuine swiss catenary system the price is a king's ransom so may have to wait for that printer. I also run trams (strassenbahn) so when I get around to it that is another type.
Excellent work.
Great tutorial!
Excellent video this is why I bought a 3D printer. You mention that you use the Anycubic Craftsman resin have you found it to be a better resin for scale models? I have only used the Elegoo Mars resin and small details can be brittle. I will try the Anycubic Craftsman if that is your recommendation.
It looks great
Very impressive!
Great stuff its just the push i need to buy a 3d printer 👍👍
Very nice. How robust is this? I have two kids here (7 and 10), guess we have to live without overhead wires for now.
These are as robust as the injection molded plastic items available at the dealers, but not as robust as the metal parts from Märklin or Sommerfeldt. However… Catenary reduces ”playability” of the Model Railroad and I wouldn’t recommend it for kids..
Just magnificent!!!
Looks very nice. I'm modeling in N scale so it is a bit more challenging. Greetings from Hai
Hi there, they look very nice. Have you seen any in n scale or is that too small for these "home" 3d printers?
I have not seen any yet. The challange is not the detail or the small size. The challange is to maintain a reasonable mechanicle strength. Maybe using really though resin. The drawback then is looong print time + poor detail.
Absolutely exceptional. Thank you very much Martin.
By the way, how do you fix the pantograph two millimeters below the catenary? with an invisible thread?
Thank you! I put a spacer of 2mm between the overhead wire and the panthograph. Then when clamped there I add a drop of fast set glue in the hinge.. :) Hehe.. yeah I know.. It’s not optimal, but very easy.
Good job! It'll be great if you have a solution to create your own catenary wire in brass, for example, to make it useful for analogic system. I understand that in digital system catenary is only for atrezzo. Thanks.
Great video. Definitely going to do the 3D printing, do you think kleinbahn category wires would fit it?
Hi! I have no experience with Kleinbahn. I’ll check it out.
This is amazing! Is it possible to size or scale these up for O scale?
I’ll talk to the guys at Modelrailroad3D and ask. All these items are designed to H0-scale to optimize print avoiding failures.
Testkörning borde vara gjord med svenskt rullande material. Men för övrigt "skitsnyggt" jobbat som vanligt ;) Villhöver, kan man beställa?
He he.. Det kan man tycka, men då har man inte läst läxan gällande RUclips. Tyska tåg i videon = +16% fler visningar. BR103 = +8% ytterligare visningar. Så.. Nej.
Tack för att du frågar! Nope.. Jag gör videos. Jag levererar inga grejer. Det får tillverkarna göra.
Nice. You say that your panto is about 1 or 2 mm below the electric line. Do you glue the panto to stay at that height? Can your panto still go down, how did you do that.
Regards peter
Sweet.. thanks for the vid.. i need to look what they look like in Poland 🇵🇱
Like always a great job done.
Allow me one question please.
Are these cheap catenary posts somewhere for sale ?
I ask because I'm a absolutely non-understanding computer person. So also working with a 3D printer is not exactly my thing.
Therefore I want to buy these catenary things.
Thanks for reply.
Greetings from the Čech Republic 🇨🇿 and stay healthy 😷.
Hi! The reason for low cost is 3D-print at home. If you feel you cannot bridge the knowledge gap for computers, then you will continue to use manufacturer items from Märklin, Viessmann or Sommerfeldt. Check with your local dealer for catenary items.
Dear Martin! Another amazing video as usual! One question: how could you fix the position of the pantograph just below the level of wire?
Thank you! I put a 2mm spacer between the catanary and pantograph, so it’s clamped there. Then I add one drop of fast set glue.. he he.. Yeah.. I know.. Not optimal, but fast and easy
Awesome!
... but probably too flimsy to use as current carrying catenary ... ?
Great video and tutorial. So, when are you going to start 3D printing the overhead wires (and printing silver) for even more savings???
Great video as always! Did you print these with the Ultra DLP or the Mono 4k?
Hi Dan! I used both printers. They produce the same level of detail. All items has been test-printed on both, so it shouldn’t matter which one you use. The Mono 4k is twice as fast though.
Bonjour
Je vous suis depuis plusieurs mois et je dois vous avouer que vos vidéos sont vraiment géniales, on y apprend énormément d'astuces , pour vos prochaines vidéos serait il possible d'avoir des sous-titres en français d'avance je vous remercie.
Bonne continuation dans votre projet et merci de nous faire partager votre expérience.
Another fantastic video. Have you ever considered doing a detailed layoutZ scale?
Hi! Thank you! No, not yet. Z is fantastic I think, but stay with H0 for now
I was about to ask how robust those printed masts were, but I realised the answer was "Who cares! Just print some spares." How are the outriggers (horizontal arms) bearing up under the load of the wires?
Hi! It all has to do with the resin you chose to use. I use this Anycubic Craftsman Resin which is strong and durable. It does require 1-2sec longer exposure of every layer = longer print time. The outriggers are 0.7mm diam and carries the wires without any problems. They could probably be twice as heavy without any issues.
Hi Martin, as ever very inspiring. I did not buy a 3D printer yet but asked a friend to print a few items that I bought from CGTrader's. He started with the sandbox. He noticed that the scale of the sandbox was 140 x 90 x 98 mm which is neither H0 scale, nor full scale. Do you have full scale dimensions for me? I do not know what causes the problem and I do not know whether this dimension difference is caused due to the use of a non-Anycubic printer. Do you expect that the same scale difference will also pop up for the catenary sets or benches? I hope that you can provide an answer.
Nice job !!! Thank for sharing . What do you think about anycubic mono 4x versus Elegoo Saturn ? Thank you again
Thank you! I haven’t tried the Elegoo Saturn so I cannot say. One thing I like for sure with the Mono 4k is the speed. It prints stuff that takes 8h in the DLP about twice as fast using the same exposure time. That plus excellent detail is the strenghts.
Amazing!
Great video! THX and See ya - Tino
Hej Martin tack för alla tips du delar med dig av, Hur gör jag för att sponsra dig med lite cashflow?
Do you recommend one Three D Printer over another, never used one before and am getting back toto trains after 25 years?
I am a bit concerned about the stability of the wire holding beams. a lot of resins can be quite brittle and those pieces are quite thin for the weight they hold.
How do they hold up for you so far? Had any of them break?
I would probably use retail available beams on the 3d printed masts. (about 2€ per piece from viessman for the german versions) Or look into modifying the 3d print so I can put on some metal wires into the isolator parts. maybe with a rig one could bend metal and solder it together to create a little more sturdy beams for the swiss variations.
something else I am thinking about is to create custom overhead wires, as most commercially available wires are just way too thick. prototypical they should be about 0.12mm in H0, but most commercial available are 0.5mm or more
Hi! These beams/masts/poles have now been standing for 3 months. The issues you are referring to is because use of wrong type of resin. Anycubic Craftsman Resin requires longer (+1-2 secs) exposure = longer print time, but is much stronger and tougher compared to other resins like ”3D Jake Basic” or ”Frozen Aqua-Gray 4k”.
So.. No these do not break during normal assembly.
How do we make live category if we want to use it to power our trains.
I would solder the wires together ahead of fixing them to the masts. The masts are strong enough to hold the wires also with pantograph picking up current. I’m curious why you want to do that though? The last 3 electric locomotives I bought do not have an internal electrical connection to the pantographs, so they cannot pick up current that way. In digital system there is also no point to do that.
very nice :-)
Is this Catenary strictly decorative or is it live wire? I'm planning on running my GG1's from live overhead wire. This will be in N-Scale. Merry Christmas!
as I understand it's decorative. around 16:20 he says the pantograph is fixed 2mm below the catenary
Superfint 👍🏻
I live in the US and I don't have any of the catenary systems in the part of the country that I live in.
I'm eating Swedish cookies right now ... no wait ... they're Danish. Sorry.
:D
👏👏👏👏👏👍
Nice, but... catenary wires bent to follow track curves are not exactly realistic in my opinion.
I understand and agree. Then I assume your layout has wider curve radiuses than 600mm all over? Otherwise the distance between the catenary masts will not be very realistic either..
@@marklinofsweden I do not have a layout, yet. But what I have in mind will not have any catenary and will use only short rolling stock, in order to attenuate the unrealistic effect of sharp curves. I have yet to see one single layout with a realistic catenary on it...
What is “realistic’ is subjective and depends on the expectation of the viewer, I’m very happy with the look of the working old Märklin catenary. I rather have oversized working catenary than none at all.
Nice video 🇵🇰😍👍
It is ironic how a big investment like a 3D printer can end up being the affordable option in model railways
Круто🤝🤝🤝
With 3D-printing becoming ever-more accesible and affordable, the posibilities are endless, if you have access to a printer. The modelling community needs to be careful though and catenary is an excellent example of what I mean.
If we can buy a printer, the other bits and pieces, and all the consumbables required, for the same price as "ready-to-run" catenary, sales of off-the-shelf products are going to drop dramatically. I don't see companies like Fleischmann, Roco and Marklin slashing their prices, so it's quite possible these companies may stop production of items like these, along with various other bits and pieces which lend themselves to home printing.
This is all very well, as long as we all have access to a printer - I for one do not.😒
This isn't meant as criticism, of anyone at all, but just simply a warning: are we maybe getting a wee bit too smart for our own good?😁
A philosophic comment! Yes, I have considered that thought too before publishing this series of videos about 3D-printing. I have waited one year actually.. Luke Towan and Kaithy Millatt and many others has used 3D-print since long in almost every video.. So okay.. Here’s my conclusion: 1) The European model railroad hobby will totally die if Märklin stops producing items for whatever reason. They are driving the hobby. The others live because of it, no matter what your feelings are for Märklin brand. 2) 3D-print will be BIG in the Model Railroad hobby for sure. Not now so much, because the core audience is between 50-70 years and they are currently( in general) not so skilled with computers and thereby 3D-printers. BUT as time goes by, the people who grew up with a computer in the bedroom will eventually become 50-70 and thereby become the core of the hobby. Until then the majority will continue to buy manufacturer stuff from the shops.
3) The 3D-print technology will eventually erase the business totally for the manufacturers doing plastic kits and other simple plastic molded stuff. That is already happening now. However.. The trains are a completely different ballgame. Here is complex shapes, multiple coloring in advanced paintschemes and super detailed screen print neccesary just to create the outside. Then.. The complex drive train with gears and motors to obtain a smooth and realistic movement.
Based on this I decided to activly promote and introduce 3D-print. The market will change, but the key-players will stand strong and hopefully even benefit from the new dimension of miniature world creation.
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for such a comprehensive response Martin. You've obviously given this some thought and I agree with you.
I hope the manufacturers are planning ahead, at least as much as you are. I would hope that, as 3d-printing becomes more and more affordable for home-users, the big manufacturers will embrace that same technology and change their approach to certain aspects of this wonderful hobby. If 𝒘𝒆 can produce stuff more cheaply, so can they. If they start to utilise the cheaper methods of production, surely prices can come down. Lower prices should guarantee them a share in the market, even as more people start to make their own.
Prices in the UK are climbing 𝒘𝒂𝒚 too fast and I assume the same is true on the continent. The big guys need to be very careful; every 3d-printer sold to a hobbyist means less stuff they will buy off-the-shelf.
Your price comparison for the catenary should be a wake-up call to Marklin, Hornby, and all the others. If 𝒚𝒐𝒖 can make 𝑏𝑒𝑡𝑡𝑒𝑟 catenary, much, much cheaper than theirs, so can the rest of us - except me of course, as I don't have the technology .......... yet.😂
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
@@2H80vids We’ll see what products the Modelrailroad3D team develops in the future. To my understanding they are more interested in develop items for niche markets, which previously not been available. Not so much trying to duplicate the main stream items from current German manufacturers. However, it’s a great combo for me to work with both a leading 3D-print manufacturer and an ambitious development team of 3D-models. I’m also convinced that it will be of benefit for the RUclips audience.
I agree on this philosophy of the comment and the reply. I have been watching 3D for over a year and its clear it will have some very good uses like this catenary system. I have 7 packs of Dapol masts to install, 10 masts per pack but of course they are a generic design. The detail and options on your system is very interesting now as I really enjoy building kits. If the printer and resin comes in around 250 euros then it starts to look like a very good project to start with. Thanks for the video and all the detailed information
First!
Gratz! 👍😊
LMAO "low cost" How much for 3d printer? its for free? NOOO ???? So its not LOW COST. dislike this...
Good to hear that you will find it refreshing to know that the 3D printer I use cost $248 USD nowadays. Welcome to 2022!