mmm i really like how you draw those white windows by hand. There is an easier way, reverse that drawing of the windows in black, so you get white windows with black background. paint them with some clear gloss and voila they are ready to go. The drawback is that you can't look into that house. But in the smaller scales , as n, they still look good and you save loads of time. anyway super video. Thanks !
Martin: I like the two rulers taped together. Never thought of that. It's always the simple things that elude. Of course the rulers could be set super accurately using another edge of some kind and a drill shank for size. While thinking of drawing set compasses, another idea is to replace one of the points of a school type compass with a piece of silver steel (or perhaps drill shank (EYE PROTECTION !!! making it) the same size. File (the shanks of drill don't seem to be hardened) a flat about 2mm high on the end and place it in the compass. You now have a usefully small 'jenny caliper'. The pointy leg of the compass marks the material; the 'step' slides along the edge of what is being marked, so keeping the scribe point parallel to the material's edge. Simply set by placing the flat against the longitudinal end of a steel ruler, and wind the point on the scale. All this is hard to describe but simple. I can set to within 0.1mm. Saves HOURS of time, and is loads cheaper than a height gauge. The last project I used mine on was marking out some tinplate (coffee tin) to make tiny size test pieces for decoders. Keep the sharp tools away from children - as so often; you only have to be wrong once. Google 'jenny calipers' or 'hermaphrodite calipers' to find photos which should clarify my parrot scratchings of explanation. Thanks for the ideas: Peter.
The first time I think I've ever seen somebody using draughtsman's bows to scratchbuild windows, a process I've seen described in all the old books on model building construction. I tried it once, but just wasn't accurate enough to get a pleasing result, so now I use an old silhouette cutter to cut windows pre-drawn in Inkscape out of either sticky labels which are then peeled off the backing paper and stuck onto clear acetate, or 0.1 mm styrene sheet - it can even handle curved windows and the results are excellent. I don't model continental European railways, but your techniques are really good, so you have another subscriber. Thank you for posting and stay well.
Martin, thanks for this video! My father had a set of those engineer tools. I remember thinking when I was child how to use them. Now I know... thirty-five years later!
Our architect students and even some pros here in the rural areas in the Philippines still use the drafting method. It's REALLY cheap, effective, and can still edge out most 3D printed windows in terms of detail.
Martin, thanks so much for this video, especially for the "old school" method for creating windows using a drafting tool. I've seen this in old books on scratchbuilding structures that I had as a teen in the late 50's and early 60's. And I think I still have the drafting set I inherited from my father. I'll have to try and find it. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Very good Martin, Back in the late 60's I was doing the Old School Method in high school drafting class. I had a drafting set but in one of the multiple moves, I've made they vanished. Thanks for the video.
Hey Martin, and thanks for the video. I made windows for my station using a fdm printer of only 65 euros! And I'm pretty impressed by it's quality. Greetings from the island of LA Palma. Yes, the latest volcano eruption. 🌋
Hi I am so great full for this video. I have. Any cubic printer and felt so loss in making my miniatures, you just showed me how to do it. I want to thank you so much and I love your videos. I am a beginner
Great video, as usual. The old school method looks like a great technique. Thank you for sharing it. I checked out the contest you mentioned and find it interesting that in order to win a 3D printer, you have to already have a 3D printer. Kind of a chicken and egg scenario.
Thank you so much, masssterrr! I I didn't know the method of "drawing lines" with synthetic enamel paint to make windows!! And I'm already an "old monkey" on this instrument. I'm a architect. Hahahahahaha Thanks again
Hi Garth! I’m planning for one or more workshops in South Africa this season (November - February). If you like I could keep you posted on that as the plan is getting clearer.
Martin, I used to use the CA 'fast set' glue for windows but noticed a 'white film' or 'crazing' adjacent to the areas glued on to the clear acetate so I stopped using it. This may not happen straight away but it does happen. Now I use a silicone based glue. It takes hours to dry but no white fog or craze.
With those laser etched build plates when I first got the plate, my first print came off great, then after that the next couple of prints I had to basically chisel the prints off of the new etched surface. After about doing this four or five times, I saw some resin on the surface and wiped it off with a shop rag that had IPA on it.. after that for some reason my print came off of the etched surface easily. I forgot to wipe the surface down again and I practically had to chisel the print off again. So, I tried to wipe it down with IPA after I was able to get the print off of the surface and did another print on the etched surface and the print came off easily (because I wiped it down with IPA before doing the print again). Also make sure to use the metal spatula to get the prints off and not the plastic one. Using the spatula use the edge of the spatula laid down flat on the laser etched surface and pry one corner of the print up and slide the spatula underneath it... the print should then just slide right off. Wipe down with IPA. So basically, make sure to wipe the laser etched surface with IPA (or metholated spirits, which ever you have on hand) alcohol after you remove the print from the surface, and you should not have any issues with over-adhesion with the etched surface and the print sticking to it like it was almost welded on. If you let the build surface sit for a few days (or more) without printing on it.. make sure to also wipe the surface down before you do a print too, as it will make sure the surface is prepped once again. I have followed this regimen since I got the laser-etched surface and have not had a problem with it since and all the prints come off of the surface nicely now.
Hi Martin! I hope this isn't odd, but I'm a doctor and I was just wondering if you'd had that rash/lesion on your head looked at! I'm not a dermatologist, and I obviously can't get a look at it but I think it'd be worth getting checked out. I suspect it's something very benign - like keratosis or perhaps something infective, but maybe just to be safe! Thanks again for such a great videoA
Hi! Thank you for the input and medical advice! 😄 Yeah, I have had it diagnosed some years ago and it’s Rosacea. It’s just to avoid beer, stress and the sun! The stress is easy, but beer (alcohol) and the sun.. Well.. So the rash will come and go as long as I live. 😄
Hi! That’s an intresting question! I must admit I’m very new to resin printing still, so I guess I have not got to that point yet. Or, is it something that happens in or directly after print?
Do you have a technical name for that drawing tool i cant seem to find it online. I have never seen that tool before but it blew my mind and opened up all kind of ideas for it and enamel paint.
That drawing tool was called a drafting (ink) pen or a ruling pen. If you search under that name you will get most hits from modern-style pens, but a few will be the old instrument that was a standard part of drafting sets. It was used to create engineering drawings in ink.
I was quite upset with you for starting with expensive technology. In my eyes you were always the man who used cardboard for your scenic base and found inexpensive ways of doing things. Fortunately you redeemed yourself by using the old school method. Many of us modellers would love to be able to justify the cost of buying and using a 3D printer. Sadly for most of us it would be used sporadically and then end up collecting dust on a shelf having never justified the outlay. Thanks for a very professional presentation.
I totally agree with you, the modelers I'm following are switching to 3d printing as well. Tip: easythreed k7, 70 euros I'm quite happy for small proyects
I will never have a model like this but it seems sacrilegious to me that a ‘true’ model maker would resort to a 3D printer. That drafting kit took me back 40 years to my days in a civil engineering office before the days of CAD (computers were room sized and generally only came with the mysterious letters IBM on them). Once I was past the horror of you using a ball point pen for drawing I did wonder why you didn’t just create the template in a simple drawing programme since you were scanning, reducing and printing the image. Generally love the videos, though.
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
mmm i really like how you draw those white windows by hand. There is an easier way, reverse that drawing of the windows in black, so you get white windows with black background. paint them with some clear gloss and voila they are ready to go. The drawback is that you can't look into that house. But in the smaller scales , as n, they still look good and you save loads of time.
anyway super video. Thanks !
Hi Henrik! That was a really interesting idea! I really need to try that out. I made it a ”sticky” to the comments.
Clever idea painting the window pieces like this.
Martin: I like the two rulers taped together. Never thought of that. It's always the simple things that elude. Of course the rulers could be set super accurately using another edge of some kind and a drill shank for size. While thinking of drawing set compasses, another idea is to replace one of the points of a school type compass with a piece of silver steel (or perhaps drill shank (EYE PROTECTION !!! making it) the same size. File (the shanks of drill don't seem to be hardened) a flat about 2mm high on the end and place it in the compass. You now have a usefully small 'jenny caliper'. The pointy leg of the compass marks the material; the 'step' slides along the edge of what is being marked, so keeping the scribe point parallel to the material's edge. Simply set by placing the flat against the longitudinal end of a steel ruler, and wind the point on the scale. All this is hard to describe but simple. I can set to within 0.1mm. Saves HOURS of time, and is loads cheaper than a height gauge. The last project I used mine on was marking out some tinplate (coffee tin) to make tiny size test pieces for decoders. Keep the sharp tools away from children - as so often; you only have to be wrong once.
Google 'jenny calipers' or 'hermaphrodite calipers' to find photos which should clarify my parrot scratchings of explanation.
Thanks for the ideas: Peter.
Your talent for models is masterful. You have golden hands
The first time I think I've ever seen somebody using draughtsman's bows to scratchbuild windows, a process I've seen described in all the old books on model building construction. I tried it once, but just wasn't accurate enough to get a pleasing result, so now I use an old silhouette cutter to cut windows pre-drawn in Inkscape out of either sticky labels which are then peeled off the backing paper and stuck onto clear acetate, or 0.1 mm styrene sheet - it can even handle curved windows and the results are excellent. I don't model continental European railways, but your techniques are really good, so you have another subscriber. Thank you for posting and stay well.
Martin, thanks for this video! My father had a set of those engineer tools. I remember thinking when I was child how to use them. Now I know... thirty-five years later!
Our architect students and even some pros here in the rural areas in the Philippines still use the drafting method. It's REALLY cheap, effective, and can still edge out most 3D printed windows in terms of detail.
That old school method is fantastic.
You are very patience to draw those windows...... A window Master! Great video..as usual. Cheers from Canada.
Martin, thanks so much for this video, especially for the "old school" method for creating windows using a drafting tool. I've seen this in old books on scratchbuilding structures that I had as a teen in the late 50's and early 60's. And I think I still have the drafting set I inherited from my father. I'll have to try and find it. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Excellent Martin. Drawing Tool, also known as Ruling Pen.
Very good Martin, Back in the late 60's I was doing the Old School Method in high school drafting class. I had a drafting set but in one of the multiple moves, I've made they vanished. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for another inspiring tutorial! // Lars, Kallhäll
Thank you for sharing this, especially the old school method. Keep having fun, Chris
Lovley video as always Martin. It’s nice to see how it can be done, and how different generations solves the problem using the tools at their disposal
Has anyone ever told you you have a very soothing voice that is very relaxing?
Thank you! Yes, some time ago a father told me he and his son watch my videos as a bedtime story. Told it works perfect!. 😄
Brilliant techniques thanks for teaching us Martin
That's awesome Martin!! One of the best videos I've seen this year 👍
I like your video’s so much. Just the perfect information for everyone
That's really cool. I have never seen that kind of drawing tool before. I would love to see a side by side the 3D printed windows vs the drawn ones.
Hey Martin, and thanks for the video.
I made windows for my station using a fdm printer of only 65 euros! And I'm pretty impressed by it's quality. Greetings from the island of LA Palma. Yes, the latest volcano eruption. 🌋
Hi I am so great full for this video. I have. Any cubic printer and felt so loss in making my miniatures, you just showed me how to do it. I want to thank you so much and I love your videos. I am a beginner
Great video, as usual. The old school method looks like a great technique. Thank you for sharing it.
I checked out the contest you mentioned and find it interesting that in order to win a 3D printer, you have to already have a 3D printer. Kind of a chicken and egg scenario.
I enjoy your videos very much. The drawing tool you used is called a Bow Pen.
Thank you! Aha! Bow pen! Got it! Thank you! 👍
Thanks for showing both techniques. We'll see which ones I'll use on mine. Probably the one with the 3D printer.
Greetings from @AlexMOBAOpa
Bravissimo😊
Another brilliant video - Martlin you are amazing
Thank you so much, masssterrr! I
I didn't know the method of "drawing lines" with synthetic enamel paint to make windows!! And I'm already an "old monkey" on this instrument. I'm a architect. Hahahahahaha
Thanks again
Martin, muy buenas técnicas!!!
Muchas gracias
This was great and answered a lot of questions I had. Thanks for sharing this.
Great Window is los Nice
Say hello from México My friend
Amazing , You have such amazing skills and Talent
Thank you!
Hi from Garth Close from South Africa
Hi Garth! I’m planning for one or more workshops in South Africa this season (November - February). If you like I could keep you posted on that as the plan is getting clearer.
The craftet Windows are great!
Muy bonita maqueta. Saludos desde Chile..
Thank you for this video, very interesting and highly useful 😃
BEAUTIFUL VIDEO, A GREETING FROM ITALY!
Martin, I used to use the CA 'fast set' glue for windows but noticed a 'white film' or 'crazing' adjacent to the areas glued on to the clear acetate so I stopped using it. This may not happen straight away but it does happen. Now I use a silicone based glue. It takes hours to dry but no white fog or craze.
Amazing.
Alright, that's on my list to try. I've had my drafting tools gathering dust too long, eh!
Ho Martin, thnx again for a new video. Can we see a new layout tour soon?
Hi! I have a layout tour video planned for November. Thank you for asking!
Master 👌👌
Hi, greetings from El Salvador 🇸🇻 🙂 Nice vídeo . Thanks i'm" Needed 1/64 figures
With those laser etched build plates when I first got the plate, my first print came off great, then after that the next couple of prints I had to basically chisel the prints off of the new etched surface. After about doing this four or five times, I saw some resin on the surface and wiped it off with a shop rag that had IPA on it.. after that for some reason my print came off of the etched surface easily. I forgot to wipe the surface down again and I practically had to chisel the print off again. So, I tried to wipe it down with IPA after I was able to get the print off of the surface and did another print on the etched surface and the print came off easily (because I wiped it down with IPA before doing the print again). Also make sure to use the metal spatula to get the prints off and not the plastic one. Using the spatula use the edge of the spatula laid down flat on the laser etched surface and pry one corner of the print up and slide the spatula underneath it... the print should then just slide right off. Wipe down with IPA.
So basically, make sure to wipe the laser etched surface with IPA (or metholated spirits, which ever you have on hand) alcohol after you remove the print from the surface, and you should not have any issues with over-adhesion with the etched surface and the print sticking to it like it was almost welded on. If you let the build surface sit for a few days (or more) without printing on it.. make sure to also wipe the surface down before you do a print too, as it will make sure the surface is prepped once again. I have followed this regimen since I got the laser-etched surface and have not had a problem with it since and all the prints come off of the surface nicely now.
Hi Martin! I hope this isn't odd, but I'm a doctor and I was just wondering if you'd had that rash/lesion on your head looked at! I'm not a dermatologist, and I obviously can't get a look at it but I think it'd be worth getting checked out. I suspect it's something very benign - like keratosis or perhaps something infective, but maybe just to be safe! Thanks again for such a great videoA
Hi! Thank you for the input and medical advice! 😄 Yeah, I have had it diagnosed some years ago and it’s Rosacea. It’s just to avoid beer, stress and the sun! The stress is easy, but beer (alcohol) and the sun.. Well.. So the rash will come and go as long as I live. 😄
@@marklinofsweden Very glad! Thank you. Sorry if I drew unnecessary attention to it! Rosacea is a pain - I have it myself!
Great video! Had you problems with warping resin so far? Thanks!
Hi! That’s an intresting question! I must admit I’m very new to resin printing still, so I guess I have not got to that point yet. Or, is it something that happens in or directly after print?
@@marklinofsweden Thanks for the reply - I experienced this with flat prints when UV-hardening. It's a learning process to me. Love your work!
@@Sardschka Okay! It’s good to know. One idea is maybe then to make the hardening of flat objects between two flat pieces of glass?
@@marklinofsweden Hmmmm ... glass might block the UV light?
good vid
Do you have a technical name for that drawing tool i cant seem to find it online. I have never seen that tool before but it blew my mind and opened up all kind of ideas for it and enamel paint.
It's called a ruling pen :)
In French un tire ligne
That drawing tool was called a drafting (ink) pen or a ruling pen. If you search under that name you will get most hits from modern-style pens, but a few will be the old instrument that was a standard part of drafting sets. It was used to create engineering drawings in ink.
@@andrewver thank you
Nice video house 🏘️🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰
Oh I am from Philadelphia Pa US
I was quite upset with you for starting with expensive technology. In my eyes you were always the man who used cardboard for your scenic base and found inexpensive ways of doing things. Fortunately you redeemed yourself by using the old school method. Many of us modellers would love to be able to justify the cost of buying and using a 3D printer. Sadly for most of us it would be used sporadically and then end up collecting dust on a shelf having never justified the outlay. Thanks for a very professional presentation.
I totally agree with you, the modelers I'm following are switching to 3d printing as well. Tip: easythreed k7, 70 euros I'm quite happy for small proyects
I don't have 300 or so Patreon supporters to help me buy a 3d printer either.
i dont have a resin printer i know with it you can create very smooth small products
'Drawing tool' = pen (or bow pen)
REcuerda que los que no conocemos Tu idioma también te vemos...
I will never have a model like this but it seems sacrilegious to me that a ‘true’ model maker would resort to a 3D printer. That drafting kit took me back 40 years to my days in a civil engineering office before the days of CAD (computers were room sized and generally only came with the mysterious letters IBM on them). Once I was past the horror of you using a ball point pen for drawing I did wonder why you didn’t just create the template in a simple drawing programme since you were scanning, reducing and printing the image.
Generally love the videos, though.