Jessy, just FYI, Avoid using Alc inks. Over time the colors will fade off into some ugly shades from sunlight or when exposed to UV light, or will even burn as the resin heats up. That is why your pretty light purple turned into that very ugly reddish brown in all but the thinnest parts That's trademark alc inks for purples to do that. Also why that bright color for the flames dull to such an extreme. Blues will also fade to a puke yellow, and others may lose their pigment altogether. Instead use resin dyes (be careful as some brands have started re-branded alk inks as dyes). Same effect, but their design to pigment resins. Alc inks are NOT designed for resin, though many brands buy them in bulk (often from the same place) slap their logo on them, and market them for resin... Their proper use is on paper. Saying something is for something doesn't always make it true. That's like buying glue in bulk and slapping a label on it and marketing it as a skin care product. Or how we now see a LOT of milk/latte frothers advertised as 'resin mixers'. Edit: To tell for sure rather you are using dyes vs alc inks. Dyes when a drop is added to resin will remain a drop and not really move much at all. Alc inks when a drop is added will sit on the surface and rapidly spread out and 'move' as the alcohol evaporates in the air.
@@UncleJessy you will definitely be able to tell the difference when loking at the liquid. Resin colorant will be almost opaque int the bottle, and IME doesn't separate really like alcohol ink does!
Using the air compressor to blow off excess Is a bad idea. Gloss normally needs 2 or 3 coats because it needs to be thick. Pro tip! I work with gloss on a weekly basis.
As a long-time model builder, one of the things that's commonly used to make clear parts 'clearer' is (in the USA) Future floor polish. It's an acrylic clear and it self-levels really well. Wonder if it would work as well? No mask needed, and you just drop it onto a paper towel to drain.
They don't make Future anymore. You now need to get "Quick Shine" floor finish. Everyone should have some anyway because it makes an AMAZING wash for painting (by wash, for those who don't know, I mean a very thin color that pools into the creases of your model).
@@pixelpuppy Yes. I haven't used it myself yet (I just got some yesterday) but while researching an alternative for Future, I've read many reports and watched several videos that said the Quick Shine works exactly the same as Future. That said, it doesn't use the word "acrylic" anywhere, but in the ingredients, it does have "leveling surfactant". My comment about an amazing wash refers to actual Future which I used to use. I haven't painted in about 10 years and am just now restarting since I got a resin printer.
interesting video. Thanks for making it. So, as someone who has used "dipping" (what it is called in other hobbies) and worked with gloss sprays - here is a bit of info on what is going on. First off - a gloss coat (lacquer or otherwise) can not make the material in an object more or less transparent. What it DOES do, is smooth out any existing imperfections which can diffuse the light which might be making an object appear less transparent than it is. (think like a pair of glasses or clear plastic with a lot of scratches). So something that looks less transparent can be improved quite a bit if its current surface is not perfectly smooth. Similar to how sanding and buffing would render a surface polished and allow maximum light transmissivity - the gloss instead of removing material to smooth the surface, fills in the small gaps and imperfections - thus, giving similar results. The red resin test piece was not that transparent to begin with, so making its surface more smooth - did not have significant results. The yellow was a bit more transparent material, so it had a somewhat more profound effect. Gloss also makes the surface more reflective - more shiny - which can also help with appearance. Most glosses can achieve this affect (obviously, with some variance on their own optical clarity and chemical compositions). There are many brush on (or can be applied with an airbrush) varnishes (many water based) which can give this affect - and an old hobbyist trick was also to use some of the older acrylic floor polishes - as they could be used similarly (many are no longer available) and were a cheap source by volume of gloss acrylic finish (a few others mention this - I have a big jug of minwax on my painting table next to my airbursh). Spray can varnish can also do this, but getting consistent coating on oddly shaped objects can be a challenge at times. The main benefit of the various dipping varnish is that typically it is a more durable surface - which for some (war gamers who are going to handle a piece a lot) is important, but others maybe not (an art piece going on a shelf). Side note: if ever using a varnish (spray can especially) make 100% sure the target piece is dry - if it has a high moisture content, the varnish can fog or get hazy as the moisture interacts with the other chemicals in the curing process. Anyway, thanks for the vid - hope this info was useful to build upon the cool stuff in the video.
I use polyurethane varnish (Varathane) on my FDM prints for this type of finish and it works great - also strengthens the print, a bit. I got tired of using fillers and sanding and just took my print and dunked it into a can of Varathane and then hung it to drip-off. With one final sanding of the top layer, it hides the layer lines and takes paint well. If you're using multiple coats, you need to recoat within the specified times, to avoid applying over under/over cured finish coats.
Pro tip. Use a length of fishing line, dip the tip into the UV resin then using the UV flashlight cure it onto the inconspicuous spot on the print. Then dip the print into the lacquer and hang by the line. Once its dried, get in with some snips and cut the fishing line as flush as you can.
Cool trick. This reminds me of the tweet I saw the other day about dipping FDM-printed "clear" PETG models into Minwax Clear Polycrylic Gloss goop. The combo of specific filament and specific goop makes dandy transparent-ish prints.
Looks nice! For a less VOC-intensive process, model-car builders have been dipping scuffed-up windshields in "Pledge Floor Gloss" acrylic floor finish for decades, since it was called "Future floor wax". That might be something to try as well.
Thanks for sharing, I've been meaning to try this method for a while now, looks like you got some nice results. I made a video a couple years ago on getting clear prints with a slightly different method. I print in the clear resin first, then use the alcohol inks after applying them directly to the print. This keeps my clear resin clear without contaminating the rest of the container. I use the clear coat spray can after to make them crystal clear.
I love using “Rustoleum triple thick Glaze spray” on my clear prints after curing, two coats. I also dry it in complete darkness, seems to help with the yellowing.
I use the Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze from Krylon and the results are awesome. I'm betting that they are pretty much the same thing. I like how it goes on a little thick, then flows nice and flat. I spray a light tack coat, let that sit for 2 minutes and then 2 heavy coats with 5 minutes between. Love that stuff. It looks amazing on translucent red too.
@@MarcoNoPolo the differences I’ve found between the two brands Triple Thick Glaze on my wood projects is that the Rustoleum spray is more direct and flows heavier and the krylon is more of a wider misting. I like using the krylon on my bigger projects as it’s easier to cover a wider surface area. Both great products 👍🏼👍🏼
You could air-brush the lacquer on your prints once the level in the can has dropped, or onto larger pieces. No need to buy compressed gasses Perhaps shellac is a better option, as it is 'organic' since it is a resin secreted by the female lac bug. It also comes in different colors.
@@UncleJessy I will need to try both! Looking at making some visor pieces right now and being able to print them instead of building/using a vacuum former would be huge for me.
I've only been resin printing for two weeks now. But, I have been applying clear coats to woodwork, metals and painted miniatures for 40 years, as well as painting numerous cars. Most of these finishes will yellow and crack over time. You will always lose surface detail and sharpness. I avoid using clear coats whenever possible as they are permanent, forever. For woodwork, I prefer polishing wax coatings and oils. They can be re-applied to "brighten" years later and do not build up, losing detail. The best clear coats are automotive as they are intended to withstand heat and extended UV exposure, but they could melt the resin. Not sure on that. All of this being said, most of these products are highly flammable and toxic, not to mention bad for the environment. My old age and wisdom (hehe) says "less is better". Thanks Jessy
I wonder how airbrushing automotive clear coat on resin prints would work out? Clear coats are designed to not yellow in the sun (easily at least) and are pretty tough coats to be able to stand up to weather, scuffing, etc.
@@Calamity_Jack Totally agree. They are usually "thinned" and applied in very thin coats. I am not set up to do that kind of stuff anymore but would love to see someone try it. Napa Auto Parts in Canada used to mix automotive paints in rattle cans. Not cheap, but far better than off the shelf spray paints. I am going to see if they still do it. If you are going to try airbrushing, it is usually a 2 part mix and it is highly toxic. Use proper PPE. Thanks for the reply.
You'll need to cure beforehand as many varnishes and lacquers tend to have uv protective components to prevent sun bleaching. The gloss lacquer essentially fills all of the gaps and dries to a smooth finish hence why it looks so transparent. The matte effect is because of micro imperfections in the print (eg the layer lines) which will diffuse light whereas the gloss is as if you dipped it in glass. For drying a wire rack might be helpful to avoid pooling although removing excess is still best. Also old wargaming trick: coloured lacquer can leave nice effects because the pigment will settle more in the recesses Finally for gigantic things painting it on should work as the lacquer should be reasonably self levelling
@@jimmysgameclips It's the same principal as gloss vs matte varnish on miniatures. Gloss essentially dries super smooth so has maximum reflectiveness where as a matte surface is 'bumpy' which stops the shine. Satin varnish is half way between. Some mini painters will put a layer of gloss on a model before using a thinned paint or oil wash so that it flows better (although with dedicated washes such as citadel/games workshop shades they are formulated to flow regardless)
I’ve always just brushed on a thin layer or two of 3d print resin, it’s quick and I get really clear prints, there’s also xtc from smooth on. I usually use the siraya simple clear… you can also tint it different colors before brushing it on and you can add tint to a clear print or multiple colors.
May have already been suggested, but you could put an LED in the base to shine up, and see what effect it does. I have a small figure of Cortana from HALO, and it is lit from below in blue, and it looks really great. No, the figure is not 3D printed, but just mentioning it as an idea for your prints. Keep up the good work.
2k urethane auto clear coat works really great on clear prints. When sprayed correctly, it cures extremely glossy, which adds to the transparency factor.
Very similar to what I do with my clear resin prints. I will cure and lightly sand them, then dip them in Future and allow to dry for a water-clear result.
without any experiments it was clear for me that the results would be the same as any clear glossy finishing coat spray. The difference between this can and spray can is only viscosity corrected by adding more solvent into the spray coat for easier application.
Glad u covered it at the end, yeah it might be better to just spray paint or airbrush a glossy varnish over it, the issue is after washing prints in IPA it tends to fog them and i've seen people polish prints after curing using a dremel with polishing head and paste. Working on a project now that involves printing multiple bases in transparent resin, think i'll get Siraya Simple Transparent, will have to figure out the print settings, someone recommended using something like 1.5 sec exposure per layer, prob because it's transparent. Not sure about tinting it in the vat, i will prob just paint it with my airbrush using transparent paint.
yeah for sure spraying just seems more practical to me. Spraying and dipping at least seem to work well for prints that you really cant sand at all because of loosing detail by sanding
this is advice from wood working as i have not dipped into resin printing yet but polyurethane is a much better option to have a crystal clear coating. laquer tends to yellow. i do not know if it may have a negative effect on the resin but it might be worth a try.
Nice idea! Ever thought of pouring the laquer in a wider bowl for dipping and pouring it back into the can after the job is done? Maybe through a strainer that catches small bits that might come loose.
I do woodwork and use lacquer. The plus - dries FAST and gives a nice finish. The negative: lots of fumes. I only do it in the garage with the door open and a fan going.
This is basically what I did with my hour glass exterior I painted it on with a brush. I know if the print is hollow you have to do both sides so you can pour some in, then pour it back out. I used Polycrylic.
Interesting! I am now very curious as to how the user got such clear parts. I am guessing no post cure as that is typically where it gets cloudy. Great experiment and I am looking forward to a follow up if you can figure out how they actually do it!
you can post cure. i made several printed gemstones (replicas of movie props) and people were convinced they were real / made of glass or crystal not resin. you need to post process and then use the right materials, lacquer is not the right stuff to use.
I used polishing compounds and a felt wheel to polish the prints then finished them with future floor polish. It's an old miniatures trick for clear windscreens and the like on model planes
I never had much luck making my resin prints clear unless I sand down the layer lines. I find there is just to much light refraction coming off of the layer lines. You can fill the layer lines in with a clear gloss of some sort but at the point where the layer lines are filled clear gloss becomes opaque. The fine scratches from a high grit sandpaper are filled in much easier by a gloss coating giving you that nice clear ice look. Sometimes hard work is the best way.
The Bubbles you're noticing is from uncured Resin. you're supposed to leave a little hole in the model so you can drain any resin that gets trapped in there, then you can fill it. though if you're doing a clear print, that might be harder of course. id probably fill it with clear resin after printing, im not sure.
Cool! You may be able to spray it through an air brush to get better results, just make sure to clean it properly after. Also, I was wondering if you wrote scripts for your videos or just improvised it all. I’m working on a few and am thinking of adding a voice over
for the clearest prints for clear translucent adding a single drop of blue coloring to the vat before printing helps offset the yellowing from printing, then coat in aerosol lacqeur and cure
So as a model builder we have been dipping in future floor polish for year's. It's still available but it's called something else. Pledge floor care with future shine. Just bought some. Best part if you crew up the future you can remove it with ammonia.
I'm sure you've been asked this before, and you probably mention it in another video, but I've yet to find it. My question is, when you remove your prints from the build plate, you're just flexing a piece of sheet metal instead of using a putty knife. What is that piece of sheet metal? It's been my experience that build plates are pretty consistently rigid structures, and don't flex like that. I've asked this of other RUclips creators, but I haven't gotten an answer to any of my previous questions. Hopefully you read this and can offer an answer about your setup. Thank you for continuing to make these videos. I'm learning quite a bit from creators like you and others. I hope to actually know what I'm doing when I order my own printer.
I'm coming back to this as an option for using a food-grade lacquer to dip some resin cups in. Trying to find a more "efficient" option to make small wine glasses to sell over my hand carved wood ones.
Uncle Jessy, I have had luck printing the models clear then "painting" them with the alcohol inks (3DPrintFarm did a video about it). After that a coat of gloss spay paint yields very clear models.
I just got my first 3d prints and those supports be so hard to pull off. Im going to keep training but I like the tip of the heat gun. Thanks for the video.
Bit of a suggestion from another guy who works with resin a lot. Don’t dip while holding it with your fingers, resin can get through micro tears in your gloves and into your skin and that’s really bad for your health. Magnetise the base of the models foot with a 3mm magnet. Simply drill into the foot and superglue a magnet into the recess. Then take a piece of balsa wood with a 3mm magnet attached. This will allow you to safely dunk the model with full coverage, while avoiding putting your hands into the resin.
I love that we were on the same page. I love dipping stuff because it's easier to get in the small nooks and crannies than typical spray. I was using the polycrylic water based minwax stuff on my prints though too.
My wife makes resin dice, she said the purple alcohol inks always ‘burn’ and turn brown when she uses them. Maybe try your Charazard with a different color and see what happens!
"your projects need to be small enough to fit inside your can of lacquer" ...or you could pour your lacquer into a large Tupperware bowl and dip as big as you want. "why go through the hassle of dipping when you can just spray a clear coat from a can?" One added benefit of dipping vs spraying is that once that lacquer fully cures into a hard lacquer shell then your project will be a good percentage stronger and more resistant to breakage like if your project accidentally gets knocked off a shelf or banged around in a moving box. Especially for more fragile parts like wings or fingers or swords, etc.
I haven't read all the comments so maybe someone said this but my first thought if you couldn't dunk it would be to put it in one of those cheap aluminum roasting pan things and just pour the lacquer over it. Seems like that would work.
My Jupiter just came in and I’m stuck overseas for work for the next 2 months 😭 I’m stuck watching your videos to add to my to do list for when I get back and can start printing
Colorants and pigments are strong, a single drop in that whole container could be enough. Of course trial and error After shaking the resins they will form air bubbles inside. and air bubbles make the objects foggy\opaque. Some solutions are: .degassing through vacuum chambers .just letting the resin sit for some time, a day minimum . Using a heat gun or blow torch but I don't like this method as it is very sketchy and may release hazardous fumes . When pouring the resin, you can hold the container as high as you can and pour it as slowly as you can, you want to form a thin line between the bottle and the printer where air bubbles will have a hard time staying . Using a centrifuge to push the bubbles to one side and the resin to the other side, basically you could put the bottle in a washing machine but under the condition that it's fixed to the rotating drum of the washing machine, it must not tumble, otherwise it's just mixing again . I don't have a good idea about what type of membrane would do this, but using a mesh or cloth or a filter or a membrane with the right properties might filter/pop many bubbles . And there are perhaps other methods suggested by other youtubers to "remove air bubbles from resin" Thx for the cool video 😊
Hey Uncle Jessy. The technic you're showing is an old technic in Modelers world. Paint little Army figures and then dip them in crystal clear varnish or a filter with a special color. It's a good technic if you have a lot of mini figures (soldiers (15mm to 50 mm), tanks(1:200), ammo crates, weapons and so on). My advice is a Crystal clear varnish with a UVblocker that protects the paint underneath from sunlight.
I could see the lacquer being a economical solution to spray paint if you could use it in a air brush to get some pin point accurate painting without the waste/mess.
Maybe experiment with tinting the lacquer just a bit to create a wash. As a mini painter, a good dark wash is a fantastic tool because it sinks into all the tiny crevices adding a ton of definition. Army Painter used to sell a dip that people would use the exact same way that you did in the video.
I put glow-in-the-dark pigment powder into my clear resin. Really cool and fun. Just be sure to mix during the print. Like at every 5-10% complete mix with the plastic spatula that comes with the printer.
I saw some model maker dunking some miniature airplane canopie on windex and the result looked great. It creates a sort of thin layer ziping and highlighting the structure. Translucent...no but shine and realy clean...yea!
Regarding the alcohol inks. I wonder if the model was printed clear and then was dipped in resin that had the alcohol ink in it so you had just a coat of it on the outside.
You can get the same effect when you dont wash your prints before curing. It needs just a little more time to harden up. Im also not sure why you was printing that Pokemon upside down, so you have to cover it in supports.
Little tip for the issue with hollowed prints and lacquer getting inside them: Get some of those cheap disposable earplugs (or something similar) to plug the holes. Can use larger sheets of a similar squishy type of material for larger holes or grab some poster board from the dollar store and modeling clay or that blue tacky stuff for posters (the stuff teachers always use to put stuff up on the walls), make a snake of the tack/clay to fit around the outer edge of the hole, put the poster board down covering the hole and seal it to the print under the clay/tack stuff. or if you dont care about the hole just superglue the board over the hole and call it a day.... :)
I used this technique for chess pieces to give them that polished look. Be careful as the lacquer can chip off and crack. Has issues sticking to plastic
I just shoot clear coat from the can on transparent prints. Hasn't failed me yet. As a bonus, if you get uv protecting clear coat, it'll keep your prints safe in sunlight.
I did something similar, but instead of tinting the resin, I just printed them in clear, then shot it with a transparent acrylic "candy" and then a gloss varnish...
Here's an idea instead of dipping your print into a narrow can and making a big mess, how about pouring a reasonable amount into a ziplock bag, and putting your print in it, then coating it that way? Then remove it and blow it off or whatever and toss out the bag. Or keep the bag, and add more coats that way, with little waste. Done.
Jessy, what would happen if you print the figure in transparent resin, and add the drops of color to the lacquer? thus the color of the figure will always be even, since the thickness of the colored lacquer will always be the same around it. Perhaps you will have a better result and a more uniform color will be seen.
I suspect you'll have a much better result from painting the alcohol inks onto the prints, rather than tinting the resin prior to printing. All that pigment is now spread throughout your prints, scattering the light further. I'm betting if the inks are all on the surface of the print, the layer of varnish will effectively smooth it out and give you the translucency you're looking for without losing the color.
my solution has always been to preheat some resin I used to print the model so its nice and liquidy. then brush on the resin. Let it sit in a hot box for 30 minutes so any excess will drip off and then cure using uv
Yo if you ever wanna revist this idea. Try 2 part epoxy and use mica powder instead of ink, a little mica powder in a vat of siraya tech blu clear v2 will give you a perfect tinted translucency with some nice shimmer(once sanded or coated). You can deepen the color by adding some mica powder to the epoxy or use a raw clear print with a tinted epoxy coat to achieve a very light tinting effect. I particularly recommend the blu resin because its viscosity does a much better job at keeping the mica powder distributed for longer print times(i've done 7h prints with no noticeable fade in color from top to bottom).
I use elegoos translucent water washable resins. After wash and cure I hit them with a can of clear coat and they are like glass. May have to try this but I wonder if an airbrush would make a better coating, thin and consistent. This stuff is so fun
For the most glossy finish, you seriously need to either airbrush, dip, or brush on Johnson and Johnson "floor wax powered by Future" You simply can't beat Future Floor wax, and I (and others) have been using it as THE go to clear gloss finish for about 30 years.
Awesome video! I have a tiny Phrozen Mini but seeing the results on the ELEGOO machines is somehow changing my mind on resin printing work flow. I don't have a good work area for resin as I do for FDM. This video is most certainly a bonus and the comments for this video have been mindful and instructive. Thanks!
Never wash or ultrasonic. Uv. Yellowing depends on resin. Anycubic clear doesn't yellow. Then I generally use dollar store clear nail polish poured and brushed on
My question is what about over curing? Since there is UV in most light, there is some curing effect on all unprotected prints. I don't see clear material protecting the UV resin from additional curing over time
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
Jessy, just FYI, Avoid using Alc inks. Over time the colors will fade off into some ugly shades from sunlight or when exposed to UV light, or will even burn as the resin heats up. That is why your pretty light purple turned into that very ugly reddish brown in all but the thinnest parts That's trademark alc inks for purples to do that. Also why that bright color for the flames dull to such an extreme. Blues will also fade to a puke yellow, and others may lose their pigment altogether.
Instead use resin dyes (be careful as some brands have started re-branded alk inks as dyes). Same effect, but their design to pigment resins.
Alc inks are NOT designed for resin, though many brands buy them in bulk (often from the same place) slap their logo on them, and market them for resin... Their proper use is on paper. Saying something is for something doesn't always make it true. That's like buying glue in bulk and slapping a label on it and marketing it as a skin care product. Or how we now see a LOT of milk/latte frothers advertised as 'resin mixers'.
Edit: To tell for sure rather you are using dyes vs alc inks. Dyes when a drop is added to resin will remain a drop and not really move much at all. Alc inks when a drop is added will sit on the surface and rapidly spread out and 'move' as the alcohol evaporates in the air.
That is one awesome tip! i didnt realize there was actual RESIN DYE! haha going to order some and test it out!! Fingers crossed better results!
@@UncleJessy I think the resin dye from sevgili on Amazon will work well.
@@UncleJessy You contents are awesome! I sure think that with the tip of TAiiNE your colours will come out wayyyy better using the appropriate dye
@@UncleJessy you will definitely be able to tell the difference when loking at the liquid. Resin colorant will be almost opaque int the bottle, and IME doesn't separate really like alcohol ink does!
@@UncleJessy resin dye is actually mica the base foe makeup and car paint..
You can get some amazing chameleon effects with it
Using the air compressor to blow off excess Is a bad idea. Gloss normally needs 2 or 3 coats because it needs to be thick. Pro tip! I work with gloss on a weekly basis.
haha yeah I think if i just found a way to hang the prints and let them drip dry it would have been best vs the air compressor
@@UncleJessy Attach fish line to the tip of the tail with some uv resin. Dip and hang dry.
Can clear gloss in a spray paint can work?
@@Screamus yes
@@Screamus Yes, but...
If you're doing this with something like jewelry, it will rub off over time. You need a pretty thick layer.
As a long-time model builder, one of the things that's commonly used to make clear parts 'clearer' is (in the USA) Future floor polish. It's an acrylic clear and it self-levels really well. Wonder if it would work as well? No mask needed, and you just drop it onto a paper towel to drain.
Care to elaborate? Have you ever tried it on a PLA or PETG part?
I thought acrylic has trouble adhering to bare plastic and needs a primer?
They don't make Future anymore. You now need to get "Quick Shine" floor finish. Everyone should have some anyway because it makes an AMAZING wash for painting (by wash, for those who don't know, I mean a very thin color that pools into the creases of your model).
@@Kaylakaze is that also an acrylic clear that self levels?
@@pixelpuppy Yes. I haven't used it myself yet (I just got some yesterday) but while researching an alternative for Future, I've read many reports and watched several videos that said the Quick Shine works exactly the same as Future.
That said, it doesn't use the word "acrylic" anywhere, but in the ingredients, it does have "leveling surfactant".
My comment about an amazing wash refers to actual Future which I used to use. I haven't painted in about 10 years and am just now restarting since I got a resin printer.
interesting video. Thanks for making it.
So, as someone who has used "dipping" (what it is called in other hobbies) and worked with gloss sprays - here is a bit of info on what is going on.
First off - a gloss coat (lacquer or otherwise) can not make the material in an object more or less transparent.
What it DOES do, is smooth out any existing imperfections which can diffuse the light which might be making an object appear less transparent than it is.
(think like a pair of glasses or clear plastic with a lot of scratches).
So something that looks less transparent can be improved quite a bit if its current surface is not perfectly smooth.
Similar to how sanding and buffing would render a surface polished and allow maximum light transmissivity - the gloss instead of removing material to smooth the surface, fills in the small gaps and imperfections - thus, giving similar results.
The red resin test piece was not that transparent to begin with, so making its surface more smooth - did not have significant results. The yellow was a bit more transparent material, so it had a somewhat more profound effect.
Gloss also makes the surface more reflective - more shiny - which can also help with appearance.
Most glosses can achieve this affect (obviously, with some variance on their own optical clarity and chemical compositions).
There are many brush on (or can be applied with an airbrush) varnishes (many water based) which can give this affect - and an old hobbyist trick was also to use some of the older acrylic floor polishes - as they could be used similarly (many are no longer available) and were a cheap source by volume of gloss acrylic finish (a few others mention this - I have a big jug of minwax on my painting table next to my airbursh).
Spray can varnish can also do this, but getting consistent coating on oddly shaped objects can be a challenge at times.
The main benefit of the various dipping varnish is that typically it is a more durable surface - which for some (war gamers who are going to handle a piece a lot) is important, but others maybe not (an art piece going on a shelf).
Side note: if ever using a varnish (spray can especially) make 100% sure the target piece is dry - if it has a high moisture content, the varnish can fog or get hazy as the moisture interacts with the other chemicals in the curing process.
Anyway, thanks for the vid - hope this info was useful to build upon the cool stuff in the video.
Thanks for the additional information.
I use polyurethane varnish (Varathane) on my FDM prints for this type of finish and it works great - also strengthens the print, a bit. I got tired of using fillers and sanding and just took my print and dunked it into a can of Varathane and then hung it to drip-off. With one final sanding of the top layer, it hides the layer lines and takes paint well. If you're using multiple coats, you need to recoat within the specified times, to avoid applying over under/over cured finish coats.
Pro tip. Use a length of fishing line, dip the tip into the UV resin then using the UV flashlight cure it onto the inconspicuous spot on the print. Then dip the print into the lacquer and hang by the line. Once its dried, get in with some snips and cut the fishing line as flush as you can.
Nice!
Cool trick.
This reminds me of the tweet I saw the other day about dipping FDM-printed "clear" PETG models into Minwax Clear Polycrylic Gloss goop. The combo of specific filament and specific goop makes dandy transparent-ish prints.
Looks nice! For a less VOC-intensive process, model-car builders have been dipping scuffed-up windshields in "Pledge Floor Gloss" acrylic floor finish for decades, since it was called "Future floor wax". That might be something to try as well.
We did the same on boots in the Army!
They don't make that anymore. Now, you need "Quick Shine" floor finish.
Thanks for sharing, I've been meaning to try this method for a while now, looks like you got some nice results.
I made a video a couple years ago on getting clear prints with a slightly different method. I print in the clear resin first, then use the alcohol inks after applying them directly to the print. This keeps my clear resin clear without contaminating the rest of the container. I use the clear coat spray can after to make them crystal clear.
I love using “Rustoleum triple thick Glaze spray” on my clear prints after curing, two coats. I also dry it in complete darkness, seems to help with the yellowing.
I use the Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze from Krylon and the results are awesome. I'm betting that they are pretty much the same thing. I like how it goes on a little thick, then flows nice and flat. I spray a light tack coat, let that sit for 2 minutes and then 2 heavy coats with 5 minutes between. Love that stuff. It looks amazing on translucent red too.
@@MarcoNoPolo yes, exactly 👍 that’s how I use it as well. Bet they are the same
@@MarcoNoPolo the differences I’ve found between the two brands Triple Thick Glaze on my wood projects is that the Rustoleum spray is more direct and flows heavier and the krylon is more of a wider misting. I like using the krylon on my bigger projects as it’s easier to cover a wider surface area. Both great products 👍🏼👍🏼
@@carsonbarnes3283 Thanks for the info. =)
I really want a glazed donut right now
You could air-brush the lacquer on your prints once the level in the can has dropped, or onto larger pieces. No need to buy compressed gasses
Perhaps shellac is a better option, as it is 'organic' since it is a resin secreted by the female lac bug. It also comes in different colors.
no need to buy anything. paint with clear resin!
wash, paint with resin, cure
@@TristynRusselo It wouldn't have a gloss though, right?
@@LiveEasy yes it would. as per the instructions on the bottle
Clear prints are definitely something that I could use in a lot of my projects. Thanks for the tests! Very informative video!
Yeah this is potentially a simple option although my results were a bit mixed compared to just standard clear spray
@@UncleJessy I will need to try both! Looking at making some visor pieces right now and being able to print them instead of building/using a vacuum former would be huge for me.
use aerosol lacqeur you wil get 1000x better results
I've only been resin printing for two weeks now. But, I have been applying clear coats to woodwork, metals and painted miniatures for 40 years, as well as painting numerous cars. Most of these finishes will yellow and crack over time. You will always lose surface detail and sharpness. I avoid using clear coats whenever possible as they are permanent, forever. For woodwork, I prefer polishing wax coatings and oils. They can be re-applied to "brighten" years later and do not build up, losing detail. The best clear coats are automotive as they are intended to withstand heat and extended UV exposure, but they could melt the resin. Not sure on that.
All of this being said, most of these products are highly flammable and toxic, not to mention bad for the environment. My old age and wisdom (hehe) says "less is better".
Thanks Jessy
use aerosol lacqeur you wil get 1000x better results
I wonder how airbrushing automotive clear coat on resin prints would work out? Clear coats are designed to not yellow in the sun (easily at least) and are pretty tough coats to be able to stand up to weather, scuffing, etc.
@@Calamity_Jack Totally agree. They are usually "thinned" and applied in very thin coats. I am not set up to do that kind of stuff anymore but would love to see someone try it. Napa Auto Parts in Canada used to mix automotive paints in rattle cans. Not cheap, but far better than off the shelf spray paints. I am going to see if they still do it. If you are going to try airbrushing, it is usually a 2 part mix and it is highly toxic. Use proper PPE.
Thanks for the reply.
@@madp3d Good stuff, thx!
You'll need to cure beforehand as many varnishes and lacquers tend to have uv protective components to prevent sun bleaching.
The gloss lacquer essentially fills all of the gaps and dries to a smooth finish hence why it looks so transparent. The matte effect is because of micro imperfections in the print (eg the layer lines) which will diffuse light whereas the gloss is as if you dipped it in glass.
For drying a wire rack might be helpful to avoid pooling although removing excess is still best.
Also old wargaming trick: coloured lacquer can leave nice effects because the pigment will settle more in the recesses
Finally for gigantic things painting it on should work as the lacquer should be reasonably self levelling
Thats an awesome tip, now I want to see a video on that
@@jimmysgameclips It's the same principal as gloss vs matte varnish on miniatures. Gloss essentially dries super smooth so has maximum reflectiveness where as a matte surface is 'bumpy' which stops the shine. Satin varnish is half way between.
Some mini painters will put a layer of gloss on a model before using a thinned paint or oil wash so that it flows better (although with dedicated washes such as citadel/games workshop shades they are formulated to flow regardless)
@@OldManRogers Thanks for the explanation, I'm only use to doing it in 3D graphics so this is new to me
I’ve always just brushed on a thin layer or two of 3d print resin, it’s quick and I get really clear prints, there’s also xtc from smooth on. I usually use the siraya simple clear… you can also tint it different colors before brushing it on and you can add tint to a clear print or multiple colors.
May have already been suggested, but you could put an LED in the base to shine up, and see what effect it does. I have a small figure of Cortana from HALO, and it is lit from below in blue, and it looks really great. No, the figure is not 3D printed, but just mentioning it as an idea for your prints. Keep up the good work.
2k urethane auto clear coat works really great on clear prints. When sprayed correctly, it cures extremely glossy, which adds to the transparency factor.
Very similar to what I do with my clear resin prints. I will cure and lightly sand them, then dip them in Future and allow to dry for a water-clear result.
nice! yeah I was trying to avoid sanding but Im positive some amount of sand will provide better results
Future floor polish is a secret weapon!
Also worth noting: Future has been rebranded as "Pledge Floor Gloss" these days.
The title of this video made me think Hydrodipping which you should try on the future!
That yellow/green resin from siraya is easily one of my favorite colored resins in person, it's so cool!
without any experiments it was clear for me that the results would be the same as any clear glossy finishing coat spray. The difference between this can and spray can is only viscosity corrected by adding more solvent into the spray coat for easier application.
Glad u covered it at the end, yeah it might be better to just spray paint or airbrush a glossy varnish over it, the issue is after washing prints in IPA it tends to fog them and i've seen people polish prints after curing using a dremel with polishing head and paste.
Working on a project now that involves printing multiple bases in transparent resin, think i'll get Siraya Simple Transparent, will have to figure out the print settings, someone recommended using something like 1.5 sec exposure per layer, prob because it's transparent. Not sure about tinting it in the vat, i will prob just paint it with my airbrush using transparent paint.
yeah for sure spraying just seems more practical to me. Spraying and dipping at least seem to work well for prints that you really cant sand at all because of loosing detail by sanding
this is advice from wood working as i have not dipped into resin printing yet but polyurethane is a much better option to have a crystal clear coating. laquer tends to yellow. i do not know if it may have a negative effect on the resin but it might be worth a try.
Nice idea!
Ever thought of pouring the laquer in a wider bowl for dipping and pouring it back into the can after the job is done? Maybe through a strainer that catches small bits that might come loose.
Metal coat hanger! Cut a few lengths and shape into hooks as well as racks to hold pieces to dry
I do woodwork and use lacquer. The plus - dries FAST and gives a nice finish. The negative: lots of fumes. I only do it in the garage with the door open and a fan going.
pledge floor polish in an airbrush is what model kit builders use to make clear parts look nicer
This is basically what I did with my hour glass exterior I painted it on with a brush. I know if the print is hollow you have to do both sides so you can pour some in, then pour it back out. I used Polycrylic.
Interesting! I am now very curious as to how the user got such clear parts. I am guessing no post cure as that is typically where it gets cloudy. Great experiment and I am looking forward to a follow up if you can figure out how they actually do it!
you can post cure. i made several printed gemstones (replicas of movie props) and people were convinced they were real / made of glass or crystal not resin. you need to post process and then use the right materials, lacquer is not the right stuff to use.
@@xBenedictumx What is then? I definitely want to try something like this but I would love to get closer to the finish line
I used polishing compounds and a felt wheel to polish the prints then finished them with future floor polish. It's an old miniatures trick for clear windscreens and the like on model planes
@@xBenedictumx on small prints I have had the wheel destroy the parts, but you are probably better than me ha ha!
@@xBenedictumx How do you polish your delicate prints or prints with lots of relief and/or incised features?
I never had much luck making my resin prints clear unless I sand down the layer lines. I find there is just to much light refraction coming off of the layer lines. You can fill the layer lines in with a clear gloss of some sort but at the point where the layer lines are filled clear gloss becomes opaque. The fine scratches from a high grit sandpaper are filled in much easier by a gloss coating giving you that nice clear ice look. Sometimes hard work is the best way.
The Bubbles you're noticing is from uncured Resin. you're supposed to leave a little hole in the model so you can drain any resin that gets trapped in there, then you can fill it. though if you're doing a clear print, that might be harder of course. id probably fill it with clear resin after printing, im not sure.
Cool! You may be able to spray it through an air brush to get better results, just make sure to clean it properly after. Also, I was wondering if you wrote scripts for your videos or just improvised it all. I’m working on a few and am thinking of adding a voice over
You can also brush the clear translucent resin over your print lightly and toss it in the uv curing station and it works so well!
I believe that in order to get that crystal clear look you got to dip it before curing the print .
for the clearest prints for clear translucent adding a single drop of blue coloring to the vat before printing helps offset the yellowing from printing, then coat in aerosol lacqeur and cure
So as a model builder we have been dipping in future floor polish for year's. It's still available but it's called something else. Pledge floor care with future shine. Just bought some. Best part if you crew up the future you can remove it with ammonia.
I'm sure you've been asked this before, and you probably mention it in another video, but I've yet to find it. My question is, when you remove your prints from the build plate, you're just flexing a piece of sheet metal instead of using a putty knife. What is that piece of sheet metal? It's been my experience that build plates are pretty consistently rigid structures, and don't flex like that. I've asked this of other RUclips creators, but I haven't gotten an answer to any of my previous questions. Hopefully you read this and can offer an answer about your setup.
Thank you for continuing to make these videos. I'm learning quite a bit from creators like you and others. I hope to actually know what I'm doing when I order my own printer.
if you use a long support piece and cure it to a corner of the model you can then hang the item to dry from that support
I'm coming back to this as an option for using a food-grade lacquer to dip some resin cups in. Trying to find a more "efficient" option to make small wine glasses to sell over my hand carved wood ones.
Uncle Jessy, I have had luck printing the models clear then "painting" them with the alcohol inks (3DPrintFarm did a video about it). After that a coat of gloss spay paint yields very clear models.
Can you also dunk FDM prints to remove the layer lines prior to painting?
I just tried using a 2K clear coat high gloss through my airbrush (with thinner). The results are amazing, but way more work :).
Hey Jessy! Great video!! Now I really, really want to see this with action figures!!
I just got my first 3d prints and those supports be so hard to pull off. Im going to keep training but I like the tip of the heat gun. Thanks for the video.
Bit of a suggestion from another guy who works with resin a lot. Don’t dip while holding it with your fingers, resin can get through micro tears in your gloves and into your skin and that’s really bad for your health.
Magnetise the base of the models foot with a 3mm magnet. Simply drill into the foot and superglue a magnet into the recess.
Then take a piece of balsa wood with a 3mm magnet attached.
This will allow you to safely dunk the model with full coverage, while avoiding putting your hands into the resin.
Never dip, always a brush. That is something that I have learned from using The Army Painter's quickshade dips for my wargaming miniatures.😆
I love that we were on the same page. I love dipping stuff because it's easier to get in the small nooks and crannies than typical spray. I was using the polycrylic water based minwax stuff on my prints though too.
My wife makes resin dice, she said the purple alcohol inks always ‘burn’ and turn brown when she uses them. Maybe try your Charazard with a different color and see what happens!
Try some water based poly on the same shelf, probably easier to work with in terms of fumes and cleanup.
I use future high gloss floor polish on my clear prints to make them glossy and protect them like this.
"your projects need to be small enough to fit inside your can of lacquer"
...or you could pour your lacquer into a large Tupperware bowl and dip as big as you want.
"why go through the hassle of dipping when you can just spray a clear coat from a can?"
One added benefit of dipping vs spraying is that once that lacquer fully cures into a hard lacquer shell then your project will be a good percentage stronger and more resistant to breakage like if your project accidentally gets knocked off a shelf or banged around in a moving box. Especially for more fragile parts like wings or fingers or swords, etc.
positive part about using laquor is that you can load it into a spray gun and shoot larger projects with something like an HVLP.
If you use a paper rest surface, Parchment Paper is your friend as so few things stick to it. It is silicone impregnated. :)
would have been nice to see a comparison with spray-on lacquer that you were referring to
I haven't read all the comments so maybe someone said this but my first thought if you couldn't dunk it would be to put it in one of those cheap aluminum roasting pan things and just pour the lacquer over it. Seems like that would work.
My Jupiter just came in and I’m stuck overseas for work for the next 2 months 😭 I’m stuck watching your videos to add to my to do list for when I get back and can start printing
Or you could just pour the lacquer into a container with a larger opening?
hahahahahaha where were you when I was recording and not thinking haha
Colorants and pigments are strong, a single drop in that whole container could be enough. Of course trial and error
After shaking the resins they will form air bubbles inside. and air bubbles make the objects foggy\opaque. Some solutions are:
.degassing through vacuum chambers
.just letting the resin sit for some time, a day minimum
. Using a heat gun or blow torch but I don't like this method as it is very sketchy and may release hazardous fumes
. When pouring the resin, you can hold the container as high as you can and pour it as slowly as you can, you want to form a thin line between the bottle and the printer where air bubbles will have a hard time staying
. Using a centrifuge to push the bubbles to one side and the resin to the other side, basically you could put the bottle in a washing machine but under the condition that it's fixed to the rotating drum of the washing machine, it must not tumble, otherwise it's just mixing again
. I don't have a good idea about what type of membrane would do this, but using a mesh or cloth or a filter or a membrane with the right properties might filter/pop many bubbles
. And there are perhaps other methods suggested by other youtubers to "remove air bubbles from resin"
Thx for the cool video 😊
Tinting is cool! You should try tinting mid-print!
Hey Uncle Jessy.
The technic you're showing is an old technic in Modelers world.
Paint little Army figures and then dip them in crystal clear varnish or a filter with a special color.
It's a good technic if you have a lot of mini figures (soldiers (15mm to 50 mm), tanks(1:200), ammo crates, weapons and so on). My advice is a Crystal clear varnish with a UVblocker that protects the paint underneath from sunlight.
I could see the lacquer being a economical solution to spray paint if you could use it in a air brush to get some pin point accurate painting without the waste/mess.
Maybe experiment with tinting the lacquer just a bit to create a wash. As a mini painter, a good dark wash is a fantastic tool because it sinks into all the tiny crevices adding a ton of definition. Army Painter used to sell a dip that people would use the exact same way that you did in the video.
You can use an Airbrush to apply the lacquar. You can also use minwax polycrylic gloss in a Airbrush also. No smell at all with that.
I would brush my translusent prints with Army painter glossy varnish to make them look way more translucent and protect them from UV yellowing
Great video! I have been using light passes of clear coat. Works great!
thanks def fun to experiment with
use aerosol lacqeur you wil get 1000x better results
I put glow-in-the-dark pigment powder into my clear resin. Really cool and fun. Just be sure to mix during the print. Like at every 5-10% complete mix with the plastic spatula that comes with the printer.
I saw some model maker dunking some miniature airplane canopie on windex and the result looked great. It creates a sort of thin layer ziping and highlighting the structure. Translucent...no but shine and realy clean...yea!
Regarding the alcohol inks. I wonder if the model was printed clear and then was dipped in resin that had the alcohol ink in it so you had just a coat of it on the outside.
I'm curious how this process affected the surface of the model, did it smooth them out more or not?
Awesome technique! Thanks for sharing Uncle!🔥🫡
You can get the same effect when you dont wash your prints before curing. It needs just a little more time to harden up.
Im also not sure why you was printing that Pokemon upside down, so you have to cover it in supports.
Little tip for the issue with hollowed prints and lacquer getting inside them:
Get some of those cheap disposable earplugs (or something similar) to plug the holes. Can use larger sheets of a similar squishy type of material for larger holes or grab some poster board from the dollar store and modeling clay or that blue tacky stuff for posters (the stuff teachers always use to put stuff up on the walls), make a snake of the tack/clay to fit around the outer edge of the hole, put the poster board down covering the hole and seal it to the print under the clay/tack stuff. or if you dont care about the hole just superglue the board over the hole and call it a day.... :)
I used a couple coats of clear rustoleum on a clear blue Vaporeon
I used this technique for chess pieces to give them that polished look. Be careful as the lacquer can chip off and crack. Has issues sticking to plastic
Solution for a too-large project: pick up a chocolate fountain. Dip dip dip!
I just shoot clear coat from the can on transparent prints. Hasn't failed me yet. As a bonus, if you get uv protecting clear coat, it'll keep your prints safe in sunlight.
Try using a clear coat polish after your last coat of lacquer it's worked pretty well for me.
ive been using a Spray on Clear laqure for years on my acrualc painted prints; it creates a Great barrier between your fingers/dust, from the paint.
I did something similar, but instead of tinting the resin, I just printed them in clear, then shot it with a transparent acrylic "candy" and then a gloss varnish...
I believe you could also use glossy clear coat spray paint too! It’s probably a lot more convenient too!
yep! exactly what I mention towards the end. Cool option to dip but might stick with spraying clear sprays
use aerosol lacqeur you wil get 1000x better results
I thought it's kinda basic! I apply lacquer to almost all my painted prints and they help protect the acrylic layer and make them last longer.
Polyurethane-based liquid floor polish is a far less expensive solution that accomplishes identical results.
Here's an idea instead of dipping your print into a narrow can and making a big mess, how about pouring a reasonable amount into a ziplock bag, and putting your print in it, then coating it that way? Then remove it and blow it off or whatever and toss out the bag. Or keep the bag, and add more coats that way, with little waste. Done.
Great way to print effects like spells and more.
Jessy, what would happen if you print the figure in transparent resin, and add the drops of color to the lacquer? thus the color of the figure will always be even, since the thickness of the colored lacquer will always be the same around it. Perhaps you will have a better result and a more uniform color will be seen.
I saw a similar process on TikTok, but the guy in the video used Minwax Polycrilic Crystal Clear Topcoat Clear Gloss instead of lacquer.
Ohhh let me jump on the tiktak and see if I can find that. Thanks for the info. So many dang options out there
@@UncleJessy I can send it to you. I can confirm it does work. I just tried it out on one of my prints.
I suspect you'll have a much better result from painting the alcohol inks onto the prints, rather than tinting the resin prior to printing. All that pigment is now spread throughout your prints, scattering the light further. I'm betting if the inks are all on the surface of the print, the layer of varnish will effectively smooth it out and give you the translucency you're looking for without losing the color.
my solution has always been to preheat some resin I used to print the model so its nice and liquidy. then brush on the resin. Let it sit in a hot box for 30 minutes so any excess will drip off and then cure using uv
You could always pour the lacquer into a large tinfoil pan and dip big pieces in that and pour the excess back into the can
I believe that you would have gotten AMAZING results just using clear resin without coloring!
Why not pour some in a wider container i.e. solo cup. or a tray and use something to pour it over the print.
i used to do the same thing to small pla prints to help remove layer lines
Try using floor varnish to dunk it in instead of lacquer. Works for me in clear resin.
Yo if you ever wanna revist this idea. Try 2 part epoxy and use mica powder instead of ink, a little mica powder in a vat of siraya tech blu clear v2 will give you a perfect tinted translucency with some nice shimmer(once sanded or coated). You can deepen the color by adding some mica powder to the epoxy or use a raw clear print with a tinted epoxy coat to achieve a very light tinting effect. I particularly recommend the blu resin because its viscosity does a much better job at keeping the mica powder distributed for longer print times(i've done 7h prints with no noticeable fade in color from top to bottom).
I use elegoos translucent water washable resins. After wash and cure I hit them with a can of clear coat and they are like glass. May have to try this but I wonder if an airbrush would make a better coating, thin and consistent. This stuff is so fun
For the most glossy finish, you seriously need to either airbrush, dip, or brush on Johnson and Johnson "floor wax powered by Future" You simply can't beat Future Floor wax, and I (and others) have been using it as THE go to clear gloss finish for about 30 years.
maybe you should keep some supports to remove after you apply lacquer so you can lay the print on them and let it dry
You could use the spray lacquer by minwax. It works the same way. You just get a lot more when you buy the quart.
Awesome video! I have a tiny Phrozen Mini but seeing the results on the ELEGOO machines is somehow changing my mind on resin printing work flow. I don't have a good work area for resin as I do for FDM. This video is most certainly a bonus and the comments for this video have been mindful and instructive. Thanks!
Never wash or ultrasonic. Uv. Yellowing depends on resin. Anycubic clear doesn't yellow. Then I generally use dollar store clear nail polish poured and brushed on
My question is what about over curing? Since there is UV in most light, there is some curing effect on all unprotected prints. I don't see clear material protecting the UV resin from additional curing over time