short and sweet and to the point. Solid information. After jointing one face, I like to plane the other side so now I have the option to rotate the board so the grain direction is headed in the correct direction when jointing one edge.
I have the G0958, which is the smaller version of the G0959. Just a heads up, the feed rollers on my planer disintegrated after about 4 hours of use. Started leaving black streaks on everything I planed and the wood failed to feed. All new softwood lumber. Felt inside and bits of the feed rollers are flaking off. I've used other planers and not had an issue, but wanted to save shop space with a dual unit. Now regretting that decision.
@@AaronGeller Trying to. Grizzly authorized a return but the nearest UPS drop off is an hour and a half away. Explained that and Grizzly was nice enough to authorize a porch pick up by UPS last week. So far the package hasn't been picked up and the UPS driver said they don't have an pickup request in their system yet.
Would have liked a full review of this machine, however I figured if PW is using it in their shop, they must think it’s worth it. As a result, I just purchased one. I’d love to know how the tables can be adjusted coplaner.
@@AaronGeller I haven’t used mine much, but I do know the planer works great as long as I hold the infeed end up to reduce snipe. Jointer is still largely untested although I did shim the tables as best I could on setup.
well happy birthday to me just ordered it have to pickup at border but no big deal i can sell my delta 6" jointer and benchtop planer to save some more space in my small shop
Why, after jointering one edge and one wide surface side of your stock, then planing the other wide surface parallel with the first, must you trim the remaining edge with a table saw, instead of simply jointering the remaining edge? Why must it take 3 power tools instead of just two to get this job done?
Like top guy said try it and you'll notice each edge will be off if try using jointer to joint all surface you end up with a un parrellel board you have to joint the 2 surfaces plane one side to match the jointed and table saw to match the other jointed side. Cant joint the wntire board it will come out matching
Oh. I used to have the same question. I think you will get a flat side that is 90 degrees to the faces. But it will likely give you a long trapezoid where the board is wider at one end than the other (the long edges aren't parallel).
You don’t need a table saw because you can run it through the planer. The issue you might have is the height of the board. If your planer has a 6” capacity and your board is wider than 6”, it won’t fit. But yes, you technically can.
The difference between the tables equals the depth of cut. If the infeed is 1/16” lower, than that’s the amount of material that will be removed. The cutterhead is level with outfeed so as you push the material through, 1/16” will be removed while the rest of the material will be level with the outfeed. If you see the side view, it’ll make more sense.
0:19 Planing isn't supposed to make workpieces smooth; it's supposed to make them flat, or "planar" (if "planar" isn't the honest translation for the quality of flatness, then I'm sorry. I'm making every effort here, but there are multiple honest translations to choose from, and I can't tell the honest ones from the honest-but-misplaced ones. ). Hence the term flatshaver, or "planer" If you then want to create a second plane, parallel to the first one, on the opposite side of the workpiece, you use a thicknesshaver a.k.a. "thicknesser". And if you then want to create a plane rotated 90° from an existing plane, you use an angleshaver a.k.a. a "jointer"*. * Planeshavers create planes. * Thicknesshavers make planes on the opposite side of -and parallel to- an existing plane, and adjust the distance between these planepairs. * Angleshavers create planes at an angle relative to an existing plane (typically 90°, but most machines let you set the exact offset angle yourself). None of this has anything inherently to do with smoothness; smoothness is simply a (typically desireable) byproduct of the woodshavingprocesses. And needless to say, a workpiece that has been flatshaved planed enough to feel smooth, has been worked enough to be planar (unless the shaver is somehow damaged such that it outputs a non-flat but smooth surface. *Also, who came up with that? When I tried to translate angleshaver into english, it was super-frustrating because "jointer" doesn't even sound like it's a type of shaver at all; "jointer" sounds like a jointcuttertool for cutting dovetailjoints and fingerjoints and such. Edited for clarity.
@@RDAUGIRD I have this model and I just loosen the fence and I can slide it over far enough to get the dust hood. I can’t completely screw it down but it’s not a problem in my usage.
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short and sweet and to the point. Solid information. After jointing one face, I like to plane the other side so now I have the option to rotate the board so the grain direction is headed in the correct direction when jointing one edge.
Well done Logan. That Grizzly combo looks to be the right tool for small shops. 🙌
I have the G0958, which is the smaller version of the G0959. Just a heads up, the feed rollers on my planer disintegrated after about 4 hours of use. Started leaving black streaks on everything I planed and the wood failed to feed. All new softwood lumber. Felt inside and bits of the feed rollers are flaking off. I've used other planers and not had an issue, but wanted to save shop space with a dual unit. Now regretting that decision.
Did you return it?
@@AaronGeller Trying to. Grizzly authorized a return but the nearest UPS drop off is an hour and a half away. Explained that and Grizzly was nice enough to authorize a porch pick up by UPS last week. So far the package hasn't been picked up and the UPS driver said they don't have an pickup request in their system yet.
@@genericuser4266 I’m sorry - that’s incredibly frustrating 😔
Would have liked a full review of this machine, however I figured if PW is using it in their shop, they must think it’s worth it. As a result, I just purchased one. I’d love to know how the tables can be adjusted coplaner.
Mine are close but not perfect. It doesn’t seem to have affected the results. You can shim the tables though.
How do you like yours so far?
@@AaronGeller I haven’t used mine much, but I do know the planer works great as long as I hold the infeed end up to reduce snipe. Jointer is still largely untested although I did shim the tables as best I could on setup.
well happy birthday to me just ordered it have to pickup at border but no big deal i can sell my delta 6" jointer and benchtop planer to save some more space in my small shop
Good review of stock preparation. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.😀😀
Why, after jointering one edge and one wide surface side of your stock, then planing the other wide surface parallel with the first, must you trim the remaining edge with a table saw, instead of simply jointering the remaining edge? Why must it take 3 power tools instead of just two to get this job done?
If you do it that way the edges will not be perfectly parallel to one another
Like top guy said try it and you'll notice each edge will be off if try using jointer to joint all surface you end up with a un parrellel board you have to joint the 2 surfaces plane one side to match the jointed and table saw to match the other jointed side. Cant joint the wntire board it will come out matching
Oh. I used to have the same question. I think you will get a flat side that is 90 degrees to the faces. But it will likely give you a long trapezoid where the board is wider at one end than the other (the long edges aren't parallel).
You don’t need a table saw because you can run it through the planer. The issue you might have is the height of the board. If your planer has a 6” capacity and your board is wider than 6”, it won’t fit. But yes, you technically can.
I haven't heard any other videos mention having the infeed table lower than the outfeed table. Could you explain the reason for that? Thanks
The difference between the tables equals the depth of cut. If the infeed is 1/16” lower, than that’s the amount of material that will be removed. The cutterhead is level with outfeed so as you push the material through, 1/16” will be removed while the rest of the material will be level with the outfeed. If you see the side view, it’ll make more sense.
When you have three sides, can't you just run the other edge through your jointer to make all sides squared? I hate using my table saw
If you have one flat side you can run through planer and get the other side flat. You can get 4 sides surfaced without a table saw
0:19
Planing isn't supposed to make workpieces smooth; it's supposed to make them flat, or "planar" (if "planar" isn't the honest translation for the quality of flatness, then I'm sorry. I'm making every effort here, but there are multiple honest translations to choose from, and I can't tell the honest ones from the honest-but-misplaced ones. ). Hence the term flatshaver, or "planer"
If you then want to create a second plane, parallel to the first one, on the opposite side of the workpiece, you use a thicknesshaver a.k.a. "thicknesser".
And if you then want to create a plane rotated 90° from an existing plane, you use an angleshaver a.k.a. a "jointer"*.
* Planeshavers create planes.
* Thicknesshavers make planes on the opposite side of -and parallel to- an existing plane, and adjust the distance between these planepairs.
* Angleshavers create planes at an angle relative to an existing plane (typically 90°, but most machines let you set the exact offset angle yourself).
None of this has anything inherently to do with smoothness; smoothness is simply a (typically desireable) byproduct of the woodshavingprocesses.
And needless to say, a workpiece that has been flatshaved planed enough to feel smooth, has been worked enough to be planar (unless the shaver is somehow damaged such that it outputs a non-flat but smooth surface.
*Also, who came up with that? When I tried to translate angleshaver into english, it was super-frustrating because "jointer" doesn't even sound like it's a type of shaver at all; "jointer" sounds like a jointcuttertool for cutting dovetailjoints and fingerjoints and such.
Edited for clarity.
What's the max length that can be done on the jointer?
It depends on the length of your outfeed table.
Do you thing I could joint an 8’ long board on this?
It’d be a long stretch but with roller stands, it could be done.
ohh and are you still doin woodsmith?
Yes, I can't seem to escape their grasps! - Logan
Do you have to completely remove the fence to set it up in planer mode?
No you don’t
@@AaronGeller I saw in another review that you did.
@@RDAUGIRD I have this model and I just loosen the fence and I can slide it over far enough to get the dust hood. I can’t completely screw it down but it’s not a problem in my usage.
@@AaronGeller Good to know. I just today saw this machine and I will probably get one.
@@RDAUGIRDdid you end up getting one?
thanks
it sounded like you can adjust jointer depth
You can 😊
It looks like you have to or it would be in the way of the dust collection
Logan I like the beard.
Nice ad.
Glad you like it!
Shirt sleeve was too close ro cutter for me.I lost interest.