Why does every You Tuber insist on talking about all the safety issues? Is this a safety video or a demonstration? The problem with making safety points is you don't cover them all in a demo video. Pick you subject and stick to it, nobody cares about all the other stuff.
Interesting perspective... I can't really imagine the sort of woodworking/carpentry video that would fit your myopic 'either/or' script parameters when, to anyone with any level of experience, understands that safety and technique are inseparably intertwined.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Pick a subject and stick to it. If not your going to loose viewers. We click on a video based on the title but get something else. Its wastes our time and flat out pisses us off. I didn't come here for a safety meeting, I was looking for a process.
@@petebusch9069 A true narcissist: by "We" you mean "you". Any viewer I "loose" (misspellings and kindergarten grammar in comments pisses ME off!") because I take a little time to talk about safety issues directly related to what's being taught, I don't want in the first place. As they say "don't let the door hit you on your way out", and think of me when you're sitting in ER some day when you realize that related safety talk isn't a waste of time.
Words don’t do justice to the knowledge you share on this channel! Every video is worth every second of time required watch it! Best investment on RUclips!!
I'm just now getting into woodworking and carpentry and I am learning VOLUMES from your content. Being new to the craft, your emphasis on safety is greatly appreciated.
I was happy how you explain that quick way to find the correct thickness to set the planer. Lowering it onto the wood until it engages. Then a little. Brilliant !!
@@NextLevelCarpentry So true bud, but you're the one who lit the fire under this old guy to build one more home before the dirt nap. You and those box beams provided some answers on a home I think those would be a solution. Going to try my hand on it. Looking at the picture of this home, I think Box beams could be the solution of lower the cost from a Post and Beam look.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ruclips.net/user/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
I’m one of the lucky ones that got a 6” planer, for $ 60.00 bucks at a yard sale! With new blades . Thanks 🙏 this was very help full! Ironworker Doug! Out.
Congrats, Doug... I first started using this back when I had a 6" jointer and think you'll be pleased/amazed at how simple it is to expand your jointer's capacity! Best, Matt
Genius, I have watched dozens of other vid's to supersize jointers but they all fall far short of your simple method. You are a master please keep the video's coming
Thanks Tom; I've always felt that part of 'mastery' is sifting through many options to dial in to the one that's most effective and efficient and then tuning that best option to optimize it for the task at hand. The Irish carpenter I learned much from in my formative years referred to it as 'getting a system' for a given job. Sounds like you're doing exactly that... hope you're able to do better work faster using this method next time you encounter over-width boards. Best, Matt
Great video - nice that you go unscripted without a bunch of "uhs" and "you knows" but you still catch the goofs and provide captioned corrections. And this is just brilliant content as well.
Thanks David! Truth be told, the absence of "uhs", "ummm"s and "you knows" is more a factor of the miracle of post production editing software than my abilities to perform in a non-distracting manner but I do appreciate your 'review' more than you know...
Kind of off topic, but I just wanted to let you know what a great company Delta is. Our home was destroyed by an F-4 tornado in Southern Maryland 18 1/2 years ago. It was picked up in one piece and moved about 9 ft. When it came down, one corner of the house landed on my Delta Contractor saw. I sent pictures to Delta, and they called to tell me they were giving me a new table saw! I explained to them that I had already bought a new table saw, so they asked me if I needed anything else. I told them I had been thinking about an 8in. jointer. They sent me a brand new 8in. DJ-20, $1,650, to my temporary house, completely free of charge with no shipping!!! To say I was overwhelmed is an understatement!! They have a news letter and they told everyone what happened, and they titled the story "Delta Saves Lives" I use my beloved jointer every day and absolutely love it! Think about this story when you buy your next piece of equipment. By the way, I have been using your method of jointing wider boards for years, and it works flawlessly!
Awesome idea! I had ruled out any jointers less than 12" because I didn't want to have a jointer that couldn't flatten a board that is less than the widest board I'd run into for my purposes. I was pretty much resigned to the idea that I'd have to get a 12" jointer/planer combo machine to get the most out of one machine and save some money. This video gives me all new reason to start reconsidering buying separate machines with smaller capacities. Very cool and extremely informative. Thank you sir:)
Good on you for thoughtful consideration of machinery choices Luis. My reasoning in choosing an 8" model is that no matter how big a jointer I got there would ALWAYS be a time when I needed the next size up. I developed this method back when I had a 6" jointer and frequently found myself working a bunch of material over 6" wide. It was more practical to upgrade the jointer than use this process for so much and so often; it might have been 30% of the time? Jumping up to 8" capacity means I only have to use this method like 2% of the time so the trade off is painless. With that in mind I'd think through what you expect the majority of your projects to be and choose something that's efficient for say 95% of your work and get the best quality machine you can afford for it. No need to get a 12" model that you need once a year. BTW I'd choose a 6" 'parallelogram' style jointer over an 8" model without that feature ANY day. Adjustment with a parallelogram style is SO much more efficient it would offset the wider capacity immediately. I highly recommend a helical head for any jointer as well... it increases performance dramatically and is well worth any extra cost if you can afford it. Best, Matt
RnBergman: my reasoning is exactly like yours! I recommend getting the best 8" jointer you can afford and a helical cutterhead with rabbeting capability like the Byrd Shelix design... that's imperative if you plan to 'supersize' it. Also; unless the jointer has parallelogram adjustment capability you'll be frequently frustrated by slow depth of cut adjustments which you'll need a LOT for this type operation. In an act of shameless self-promotion I'd ask that if you happen to settle on a Powermatic PJ882 like you see in the video and don't buy it locally I'd sure appreciate it it you'd use this link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0007DHHEM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ You get the same low online pricing and free shipping from Amazon plus they help support production of free videos here at Next Level Carpentry 😉😎 Work safely and enjoy! Best, Matt
Excellent video and technique! Another method is to joint all the boards to the capacity of your jointer and glue them together to the width of your planer. Rinse and repeat and there is no limit to the width of your panel. Maybe not as accurate but you’ll get there in the end.
Good eye... I think you'll find it much quicker and more accurate than trying to measure or use the planer's depth gauge. Once you get used to it you'll realize the time savings you mention. Best, Matt
No need for the patent… my grandfather invented the cocktail umbrella and the Swivel Straw. This was an informative video and will help with my Jet 42” jointer and Dewalt 735X. Thanks for the time.
Very Very cool use of the jig....that's what I am going to use...I have a 8-inch PM jointer and a 20" PM Planer...making a 10 inch wide walnut plank table...thank you
Nicely explained. I been using the platen trick for years. Maybe we're related. Lol. The other trick I use for real wide stuff is with using a sled, some shims and hot glue, and feed the whole mess through the planer. It works great too.
Thanks for commenting, Hardnox, we must both be alums of The School of Hardnox! The 'other trick' you mention is definitely effective when and where this method falls short. I like to use a slab of LVL lumber for the sled you mention but will adopt the hot glue idea you've added... never thought of that! I end up using screws and small nails for the shims which never goes all that well. Best, Matt
How long and wide is your MDF sled? I really like the idea but am curious if it's stiff enough at 6' or 8' in length. Can't beat the smooth waxed surface for shims and hot melt though! Thanks for adding this to the discussion, Hardnox, I appreciate it and bet other viewers will too... Best, Matt
Thanks. My pleasure. These forums are wonderful for sharing information, and as it should be. I have 3 sleds made from one sheet of 3/4" MDF. I have 2 planers (12" & 24") My sleds are 11-7/8" wide by 3', 5', and 8' lengths and they remain flat and straight after many years. All are double ply (1-1/2"). I have no issue with 24" workpieces. I also use the sleds with my 19-38 Shopmaster drum sander using 40 grit paper when I'm in a hurry and have dull planer blades (and don't feel like changing/sharpening them). As you know I make heirloom furniture often using slabs. Often, I run a wide slab on my jointer, multiple times until flat, then attach it to the sled and run it through the sander or jointer. Heck, whatever works is my motto. WestphaliaWoodWorks.com Best regards, Peter
I'm with you on the 'whatever works' motto, Peter. I feel hypocritical sometimes doing a video demonstrating a technique of some sort and then going out to the shop and doing a similar process a different way because it's the the best method at the moment. From your sled inventory I can tell you have to manage a wide range of variables and getting too committed to any one method hobbles production. Best, Matt
Thank you for this video!! I watched a different video that showed the same process ,but didn’t understand the process. Your video was very descriptive and I ‘got it’ after watching your video!!!
Thanks for letting me know Micah... I really try to convey processes clearly but it's easy to gloss over details important to viewers and not even realize it. Best, Matt
So much for not going into deep details. But I am sure glad you did. Because I learned something new today that will save a lot of time. Thank you for sharing your talents and experience.
Thank you for the video. Working on a project now with really wide boards and thinking about spending $10-15K more on bigger jointers and planers...NOT! I appreciate your tip. Liked and subscribed.
Good idea. I only have a mounted 3.5" jointer and just got a planer so this tip will help me flatten bigger boards until I can afford a bigger jointer.
Just cool the way that works, isn't it Chris? Same process I went through starting out a ridiculously long time ago with a 4" delta machine. Best thing is you'll be better off in the long run learning to work through this adversity than you would starting out with a 8" or 12" machine... it may be some time before you believe me but I think someday you'll find it true. Best, Matt
Buy as much jointer width as you can justify and afford, James... this will definitely help out but the more you start with, the more you can do. BTW I started out with a 4" width Delta and, with sufficient determination, was able to do some pretty impressive projects. That said I'm not going to give up the 8" Powermatic without a fight! 😀😎 Best, Matt
Fortunately, today, you can get a 10 inch jointer/planer combo for around $550. In Europe, it's called Scheppach HMS1070; it's a re-branded chinese brand (probably "Wen"). If you're on a much tighter budget, you can search RUclips on how to make a jointer out of a hand-held power planer. If you're choosing between a jointer and a planer, I think choosing the planer will be the best choice, especially because you can use it this way: ruclips.net/video/G8o4P-aM8UE/видео.html (or similar, because you can make improved variants)
68HC060 With next to no budget, I took a used hand power plane and built a frame and extension shoe. It gets the job done. I haven’t gotten around to building a guard for it, so I am very very careful around it.
Shows you're pushing the limits of what you have to work with which, to me, is always a good sign. It's not what you got that counts but how you use it Bryan! Best, Matt
This is a great idea. One thing that is not obvious in your video is the pressure you put on the board when going through the jointer. It should be just enough to let the cutters work but not so much that you flex the board. If you push too hard you are replicating what a planer does.
That's right Richard... I hope that your clarification helps other viewers get the same results I do by avoiding the use of too much pressure while feeding the board through. Best, Matt
If I am right, there should be more of an effort or pressure on fence to keep a 90 (at least when on edge) than on cutterhead. I normally put maybe 20% pressure down and 30% pressure against fence and the other 50% is praying that I am feeding the stock in the right way and avoiding tearout LOL
For jointing, keep enough pressure against fence to keep board in contact, but not so much as to flex the board. Above might work for facing if the board is quite thick and the edge has been jointed. Mostly I try to rock the board on the jointer table a bit to find the high spots (if board is bowed up or twisted). Put the most pressure on the forward high spot and maintain the pressure all the way onto and along the outfield table. If bowed side is down, put pressure in middle of board. @@PatonMacD
Thank you Matt, excellent video! I’m receiving my first jointer tomorrow and (was) concerned with its 6” capacity! Keep the tips coming Matt, you seriously are appreciate!
You're most welcome... and FYI I used a 6" jointer for many years before upgrading to the 8" I have now. It was mostly for convenience rather than capability because there wasn't really anything I needed to do with a 6" that I couldn't, it's just that the 8" allows me to do it a bit faster and more efficiently. BTW I'd rather have a well-tuned and accurate 6" machine than an unreliable 8"... it's not what you got but how you use it that counts most😎 Enjoy that new toy... and work cautiously as you get to know it's capabilities and potential dangers? Best, Matt
Excellent imparting of woodwork knowledge/experience, thank you. Where I am from, a lug is an insult. Going to grab a bottle from the top shelf some evening & take a shot every time you mention the aforementioned lug. 😆🍻 No power tools will be used. Respect.
Awesome tip I usually use a hand plane after which works great but after a inch or so like 9” - 9 1/2 it can take awhile definitely going to make this setup. Greatly appreciated take care my friend
You're totally welcome, Thom, hope you are able to get more done quicker with this method over the hand-plane technique. I've really pushed the limits of this method for the 'gnarly' boards I mentioned and am always pleased and amazed by what I'm able to get away with using it... as I'm sure you'll be. Best, Matt
Thanks Todd... hope you find other videos from Next Level Carpentry help you learn to work through other common woodworking challenges as you develop your skillset. There's a fair amount of content here for use and maintenance of a thickness planer that you might find interesting and/or helpful. Best, Matt
Great tip thanks. I was just in the shop today working on a few cedar slabs that I need to get in order for a table and wondering if I could do something like this and then found your video. Gotta love RUclips
Slick process. I have a DeWalt 735 and a Delta 8" parallelogram jointer. Will attempt your method in near future. Have heard about the rabbit ting feature of the jointer. However have never seen the process. Any chance you might post a video on rabbiting with a jointer?
Thanks Bob... approach this method with your full attention and you'll do fine. As far as a dedicated rabbeting video I don't forsee it in the video line up but I actually cover its essentials in this video. What I'm doing is actually making a very wide rabbeted board where the rabbet itself is a full 8" wide x about 1/8" deep. It seems less like a rabbet because the 'lug' of wood on the edge of the board that doesn't get planed off is so narrow by comparison. The comment I make here: ruclips.net/video/vzmSjlXJ2fg/видео.html is a key part of the process because you need to cut the rabbet to full depth and width in ONE PASS if you don't remove the rabbeting shelf. I believe your Delta jointer has a removable ledge so it should be possible to remove the ledge for rabbets that require multiple passes since only when the ledge is removed will the board remain down flat on the infeed table after the first pass. This will make sense when you experiment. Re-watch the video starting about 3:00 or so keeping in mind the operation you're thinking about and how it differs from the result I'm after here. BTW while a jointer is fully capable of rabbeting operations I rarely use it for a number of reasons. First is that the cutting action of the ends of the jointer knives (or just the tip of the very last carbide cutter) cuts the shoulder of the rabbet which can leave it a bit ragged. 2nd is that boards any wider than 3" or so are hard to keep flat when ploughing a narrow but deep rabbet. For consistently accurate rabbeting I much prefer a dado blade in a tablesaw. Hope that helps... Best, Matt
Great video Matt as I have a 6 inch Powermatic jointer and usually rip 8 inch boards to join. Very well done video which will save me a lot of time and money (not buying a larger jointer)!!
Not sure if you're out of the woods yet Michael... does your 6" Powermatic have the parallelogram adjustment mechanism? It's worth every penny... actually every $100 bill... extra that it costs. I'd sooner do with a 6" capacity WITH parallelogram than the 8" capacity without. I'm well aware I've just jeopardized a 'friend' by telling you this... sorry😬😁 Best, Matt
*Sees MDF board* Slaps head. Why didn't I figure that out sooner? I rhought there was some way to widen the jointer, but then realized that it wouldn't work when I saw the jointer blade. So basically wider planer > wider jointer. in importance. Brilliant!
I gotta say, and no disrespect, but i like the guy that does all the really fast work and dosent do all the talking better than the guy who talks all the time, he seems alot nicer and i personally think he takes a bit more pride in his appearance. A bit like Al Borland from tool time with tim Allen...... thats what you two guts remind me of.... "i dont think so tim" Lol keep up the great work, im totally new to woodworking and carpentry and am enjoying learning as muvh as i can, as i have a broken back so can no longer have a job, so i spend my days trying to absorbe as much information as possible.....
So sorry to hear of your back injury Adrian but admire your determination to continue learning about woodworking and carpentry. It's an interesting and challenging field of work with some aspects being less demanding physically so I hope it's fulfilling for you. I wish I could put as much time and effort into all Next Level Carpentry videos as I did this one but it's just not practical at this point so some are more watch-able than others. Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I am looking at getting a Jet JJ-6HHDX 6" Jointer with helical head and a DeWalt DW735X Planer. Your tip will save me from ripping then re-gluing wider boards.
You're totally welcome, Mark! I think you'll be quite pleased with what you're able to accomplish with the setup you describe and using this method. You should be able to push the limits of this and flatten stuff 10" or so using a 6" jointer. As I mentioned I've done some pretty wide stuff by cantilevering off the 8" platten 4~5 inches. The wider the piece, the lighter the pass. You can imagine/visualize the physics as you approach 100% cantilever as the feed rollers want to equalize pressure and tend to tilt the workpiece but if you're paying attention and 'sneak up on it' you can push the limits and still get great results. If you get into some gnarly/wide stuff there's always the method Hardnox describes in his comment below. Best, Matt
Nice video. I've seen others like this and you explained and demonstrated it well for newbies to understand. I do have a question, though...why are your spray cans upside down?
@@NextLevelCarpentry I dig it! I've always done the flip and spray to clear the nozzle, but hadn't considered storing them upside down. This makes perfect sense and I feel like I owe you some money for the future dollars you've just saved me lmao. Thanks!
You're the man. I have a mantel I'm building and the top is wider than my planer. Now I feel confident I can overcome my obstacle. Thanks for your time and ingenuity. God bless!
Great video. Saw it just in time! Thanks. Does it matter how long the "platten" board is or do just need to clear the ends of the infeed and outfeed tables plus a couple of inches? How about the width? I assume as much jointed surface as you can get on the platten with a bit of clearance and obviously not more than the cutting capacity of the planer...
You got it Vincent... if I'm not in the shop I just use what I have on hand... as long as you meet the criteria you describe it will work. If you're making a dedicated platen it's nice to have it equal in width to the cut of you jointer and I like it better if it's a little longer than the length from the beginning of the infeed table to the end of the outfeed table. That way everything feeds smoothly and you have a little length for a 'stop block' on the underside of the infeed end. It sounds like you totally get it but I'll mention that waxing the surface to make it slick/smooth as possible makes a real difference in performance of the setup. Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. I'm wondering whether another potential video would be functionally extending the length of a planer outfeed table to assist in the jointing of long boards.
@@VinceEspositoJr while that would be a great topic it takes me forEVer to take videos from concept to publication (because I do the entire process by my lonesome) you can get a good idea of how I'm able to deal with long boards in this section of my most recent video upload: ruclips.net/video/sxBsNEYp140/видео.html Granted I show using a planer sled but you'll see how I use two custom roller stands to virtually extend the length of the planer's infeed and outfeed tables to handle large/wide/heavy boards with relative ease. BTW making these custom stands is the topic of my next video project on the channel... Best, Matt
How would this process be modified if working with a jointer that did not have a removable rabbeting ledge and with a board that required multiple passes? Go back and forth removing the lug until you achieve enough of a jointed surface to then proceed to the planer?
With great difficulty, if at all. You're pretty well restricted to working with straighter/flatter material without more capable machines... sorry. 😌 Your best bet is probably using a planer sled in a thickness planer... it's a bit more time consuming but can circumvent lack of a 'professional' jointer. Best, Matt
Excellent tip! Using the platen is much easier and quicker than double-side taping a spacer. I will never understand why people would hit the thumbs down button on a video like this. Simple, to the point and great information. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. As I’m sure you know, the static on that exhaust hose is killer, and it looks like you’ve got yours grounded. Can you briefly describe how you set that up? Thanks.
Pretty low-tech Steve. I just put a crimp-on terminal on one end of a piece of heavy stranded copper wire, attached it to a metal part on the back of the planer with a screw that's already there and then wrap the wire loosely around the PVC outlet pipe setup I have. Simple as that. BTW I now use anti-static flex hose from Air Handling Systems so a ground wire is no longer necessary... Best, Matt
Great video/videos! You make it look so easy using Plain (excuse the pun) sense - followed by the application. -Just spent an hour viewing your other videos...Looking forward to watching and learning from the rest! Job well done!..ken
Thanks for your comment here Mr Dan! Some day I'll introduce you to the creative guy who's responsible for that great new Next Level Carpentry graphics update. Spoiler: his initials are D.S. 😁😎 Best, Matt
I noticed the ground wire on your PVC dust collection system for your planer. It took several high voltage shocks before I got annoyed enough to do the same!
I need to make some siding for my house because I have removed some windows. Is there a way I can use a jointer to make a board have a 1/8" top width with a 3/8" bottom width? Essentially having one side of the board flat with the other side having the bevel. Like a right angled trapezoid kind of shape.?
It would be tricky to get consistent results using a jointer but, with a thickness planer, it's easy-peasy! I show making an angled planer sled in this video: ruclips.net/video/NnqhdzwZTUc/видео.html which is the concept I'd use for making beveled lap siding like you need. Make the sled 1/4" higher on one edge than the other to produce the taper you need. Hope this helps... it's totally do-able! Good luck... Best, Matt
I was wondering if you think this approach would work for one of the benchtop jointers. These jointers aren't parallelogram like yours and I'm not sure what thickness you could do a rebate/rabbet. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Great idea and thanks for taking the time to make a video.
LaVike whether or not this works on any jointer, bench top or floor model, (Parallellogram is merely an adjustment mechanism, not a capacity factor) is determined and defined by the machine's width and depth capabilities. It's an advanced technique that requires a higher level of understanding and experience to grasp but I can't think of a physical reason it wouldn't work with pretty much any jointer. Naturally it will work better on a better jointer but only because better jointers just work better... how's THAT for circular logic? Work safely if you decide to perform this process, OK?
@@NextLevelCarpentry, thank you very much for the reply! I agree on the better the jointer, the better the results. I just wasn't sure if it would work on one of the new benchtop jointers. I also appreciate that this is a very advanced technique. Thanks again!
Could you also make a platen for the infeed table of the jointer? The board would ride on the platen and thus be clear of the rabbeting shelf,. This would eliminate the need to remove the shelf.
Mike... your idea works in theory and probably also in a pinch or if no thickness planer is available but capacity and quality of the end result would likely be compromised as well.... never know what's possible until you try it! Cool part is that you're thinkin' about more options and I like that part! Best, Matt
Matt - thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't thinking of the jointer platen as a way of bypassing the thickness planer (I have an 18" Woodmaster planer), but simply to allow multiple passes on the jointer without removing the rabbeting shelf. In fact, on my 8" Grizzly jointer, the infeed table is wider than the cutter, so removing the shelf wouldn't help - the ridge left on the board after the first jointer pass would ride on the wide infeed table. So a platen on the jointer would be needed if multiple passes are to be made, at least with my Grizzly. I'll get a sheet of hardboard tomorrow and try it out.
@@MikeON22 Oh, OK, got it. I think you're on to something there... a guy could get a LOT done with a 1/4" mdf melamine 'overlay' platten the width and length of the infeed table! Just thinking out loud here: you'd have to make sure it was really secure and held down tight and then just set the depth of cut an extra 1/4" deep. The only limitation I can see at this point is if you needed to remove more than 1/4" of material to flatten the board because it wouldn't clear the rabbet shelf but would certainly work 90% of the time. Thanks for adding this Mike... good thinkin' !!! Best, Matt
@@MikeON22 I understand the table width to cutterhead width issue you mention. On my powermatic I use a 'rabbeting tip' in the Byrd Shelix spiral cutterhead so I can still rabbet. The unique shape of the one carbide insert removes that little shaving of wood so that the edge of the cut clears the outfeed table. Not sure if you actually meant your 'infeed table is wider than the cutter' or if you meant the outfeed table. If outfeed table, I always set straight knives to stick out of the cutterhead slightly on the left so the cut clears the outfeed table. With the spiral head the rabbeting tip addresses the issue. Just added this FYI in case it's new information for you, not like I think you need any schoolin' from me... 😏 Best, Matt
Tried it this morning and it worked great. Yes, it is the infeed table that extends beyond the cutter, on the side away from the fence. So I clamped a piece of hardboard to the infeed table and jointed an 8-1/2" oak board on my 8" nominal jointer. Then planed it with your method. Thanks for the tip about the rabbeting inserts. I wasn't aware they existed, so ordered some for my Byrd Shelix spiral cutter and installed them.
Wow!! Thank you so much!! That is a brilliant work around. I only have a 6 inch jointer so this trick will be very useful as I have the same planer that you have.
I developed this process when I still had a 6" Delta machine Jerry... it will expand your capabilities considerably... have fun and work safely! Best, Matt
You already accomplish some pretty cool projects (like the mantle you did awhile back) without a jointer, FCTV, I can imagine what you'll tackle and accomplish if/when you add a jointer to your tool arsenal! Thanks for the comment... much appreciated here! Best, Matt
Just a thought and maybe I'm not thinking properly but could you move your fence over far enough to have the planed part of the board overhang and run your board over to plane down the last bit to match.
MrCFerren, Not sure if I know exactly what you mean but it would be really difficult to plane off the 'lug' on the edge of the board on the jointer... it tends to get thrown off by irregularities you're trying to remove in the first place... that's why the platten and thickness planer method works so well. Best, Matt
Just bought an 8inch jointer but the on/off switch was not wired and came with no wiring instructions. Have searched the internet but can't find any tutorial how to wire this thing.
I'm just getting started with a jointer. Do you have a recommendation for a brand or style of push block? Thank you for your videos! They are really great! I appreciate your in-depth content and straight-forward style of presentation.
For liability purposes I can't make a recommendation but I can tell you what I use for push blocks in the NLC shop. For years I used the stock ones that came with my Powermatic jointer until a viewer sent me a pair of simple coarse rubber tile grout floats like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B0014XZK3Y/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d I found them to be THEE BEST I've ever used... but that's just me. I see one potential issue in that the backer on these is aluminum, not plastic, and, if it ever got caught up in the jointer's cutterhead it could be catastrophic. Glad you like NLC videos! FWIW When I first 'discovered' what a jointer was, what is was used for, and began to use one, it revolutionized my woodworking/carpentry world so I anticipate a bright future for you too! Best, Matt
Cant wait until you make a video about those run out stands you made! I keep getting hung up on my cheapo Harbor Freight rollers on my incredibly uneven driveway pushing a board through. Good stuff!
Very simple and efficient method. Great video. (BTW, at one point in my career, I did actually own a 24" Oliver jointer! When I got tired, I could take a nap on top of it. When I moved and couldn't fit it into the next shop, the good-bye was tearful...)
Thanks for your comment and opinion... I can imagine the tears when being separated from a fine old Oliver machine... I feel your pain, brother! 'take a nap on top of it' LOL! Hope your ability to comment means you've made it through the weighty life events you mentioned last time we 'talked' and are back up and about? Best, Matt
After the first pass the lug still rides on the in feed table and is no longer flat. It takes more off the fence side of board. I still use it and hand plane the lug after every pass. A lot easier than hand planing the whole board.
The whole point of the video, John, is to show that this flattening process can be done completely in one pass to eliminate hand planing which is definitely 'a lot easier than' ANY hand planing.
It's their DW735 and it's the second one of the same model I've owned. I do a considerable amount of planing for my custom carpentry/millwork business and sold the first unit after quite a few years to make sure I have a reliable, top performing machine when working on client projects. It's by far the best value for a planer of its size/class on the market and has been for quite a few years IMHO. I can't really imagine being disappointed if you purchase and use one of these. Best, Matt
For sure! If you find time to check out other NLC videos you'll see that machine put to use often on projects featured in them and maybe learn or clever trick or two to get more out of your planer... Best, Matt
Hello there, I think your vids are great thank you for your skills sharing. I have a question. I’m looking for suggestions on how to glue up 1x1 strips to make a square, though I’m thinking of gluing them at diff lengths to stager and eventually obtain lengths of 30-40 inches. Would you have suggestions on how and possibly what kind of glue to be flexible to maintain the wood glued due to bending or pressure..?
Matt, wonderful idea and explanation! Don’t fuss about “unscripted” vids...we are not trolls ready to pounce on every detail! We love your teaching! So, question, would you do a 2 min., vid on the drawer pulls on the storage center behind the DeWalt planer? THose look sweet!
Thanks for your tolerance and understanding, John, without it from you and other viewers Next Level Carpentry wouldn't stand a chance! I've never really considered doing a '2 minute video' but might just to see if I could and address your question at the same time. Are you referring to pulls in the wood faced drawers behind the planer or the white plastic 'drawers'? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm guessing he meant the wood faced drawers, although those seem rather simple, although time-consuming. (at least the way I would do it) My guess would be a plunge router to remove the majority, then a different bit (dovetail or in the same category) to undercut the upper wall to give your fingers something to grasp. Personally, I would prefer mallet and chisels, but that is a lot of drawers and would take a lot longer! So, did I get close? :D Great video. Loved every minute!
@@kevingraves7431 I bet you're right. I'm pretty sure I made those with a 'drawer pull bit' in a router back in the day: www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EFVS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ It would be a tricky operation but less so using a forstner bit to start the process. Glad to know you liked the video BTW thanks for watching... Best, Matt
Invaluable, Matt. Great video. You’ve clearly been around the block a time or two- if you were working in a small space, which combination would you choose? 6” jointer with a 15” planer; or an 8” jointer with a 13” lunchbox planer? All parties have helical cutters.
Hey Dan, As I am actually working in a relatively small space my choice, hands down, is the 8" jointer and 13" planer. I don't consider the DW735 a 'lunchbox planer' though as it's large height adjustment 'pillar' footprint give it great snipe-reducing operation compared to lesser models that are wider than they are long. In 20 years of self employed work I've not had a single project I couldn't handle with excellence with this combination. In fact I started out with a 6" jointer and chose to upgrade it to an 8 rather than upgrade the planer to a 20. I don't mean to be flippant when I say 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts'. If you're planing all day, every day and profitability relies solely on planer throughput then a planer upgrade makes perfect sense. Thanks for watching and commenting here... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry Wow... I can’t tell you how much this helps!! I’ve been on the fence with the 735x for a while, but I really think I’ll pull the trigger, and then throw the extra bucks at a Grizzly G0856. Appreciate the input Matt!
I wouldn't feel comfortable sharing that opinion / advice if I felt you would regret it... let us know how it goes? Exercise a bit of extra precaution as you set up and get used to those new machines because unfortunately they're as good at removing flesh as they are at removing wood😎
You're welcome, Dennis. It's a little surprising how well this works for how simple it is. If you start with shorter pieces to get the hang of it you'll be amazed with what you can get away with on more gnarly stuff... Best, Matt
Hypothetically speaking, can a jointer be used as a planer? Meaning, if you run a piece of wood over the jointer isn't it the same as having gone through the planer? I mean it is still flattened on one side. I say this because I do not work with raw wood as all of mine is dimensioned lumber from the mill. I do not need a planer but might have use of a jointer. So if I bought an 8 inch jointer maybe I could use it like a planer up to its 8 inch capacity.
Hey Jeff: a few facts to consider: A jointer can be used as a planer but is limited to accuracy on only single faces of boards. Even 'dimensioned lumber from the mill' can, and frequently does, have twist in it that's unacceptable to me. What's essential is having TWO flat faces that are in parallel planes... and THAT property is only accomplished efficiently with the combination of jointer and thickness planer. If you've a choice of only one machine, go with the thickness planer since a planer can be used as a substitute for a jointer for flattening boards (by using a sled) but a jointer won't work as a thickness planer with any useful degree of accuracy IMHO. Best, Matt
You're welcome, Muru! For your question: Unless something new has come on the market that I don't know about since I bought the Powermatic, yes, I would definitely buy the same machine again. It's tough to beat the fit and finish of the PJ88 and the LONG infeed and outfeed tables make my life much easier. BTW I bought the straight-knife version of the PJ88 and installed a Byrd Shelix cutterhead rather than buying the PJ88HH which comes with the Powermatic helical cutterhead. The reason I did that is because it was essential for me to have the capability to rabbet pieces (for exactly the reason shown in this video) and, at the time anyways, Shelix offered the special 'rabbeting tip' cutters for their cutterhead while no one at Powermatic would tell me if their cutterhead offered rabbeting capability or not... that was bewildering to me considering the handicap of selling jointers that can't perform a rabbeting operation. That said: the main weakness of the Powermatic is the fence angle adjustment mechanism which, as I mention in other videos, has an angle reading which is more 'range finder' than angle gauge IMHO. I could be convinced to switch brands if I could keep all the Powermatic features I use and love but get a functionally reliable fence. Let me know if you have other questions on this and I'll try to respond? Oh: whatever brand you end up with one of the most important features for any jointer IMHO is to have the parallelogram table adjustment. The depth adjustment speed and range is invaluable when milling rough stock. For initial passes on pieces it's not uncommon to go from 1/8" up to 1/2" depth of cut numerous times on a single project. With a parallelogram model that takes 2 seconds, with a hand-crank it would take many minutes. BTW models that have a lever adjustment but have 'ramp style' tables are a poor substitute: height adjustment is faster but accuracy suffers because the lever is weak for 'fine tuning' the cut depth. Wow, that's a rather over-done response to a short question... hope it doesn't scare you off 🙄😁😎 Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. The feedback is much appreciated! I'm in the market for a new jointer, as you could guess from my question. Believe it or not, my current jointer is a cheapo Chinese 6" benchtop model with a total table length of barely 26". I've had it for almost 5 years and it still works, kinda, but it's really time I upgrade.
Muru, having to deal with and work with a 'cheapo' jointer is the best classroom you can attend for learning how to really use a machine. I started out with a couple old Delta 4" models, a pathetic Mongomery Ward 6" unit, then an 8" Delta and finally the Powermatic you see in this video. In depth knowledge comes from that experience and less-than-optimal equipment. Those that start out with top of the line stuff actually have a handicap that limits what they can do and how versatile they are in the craft IMHO. Once you have access to a superior machine you'll make great strides in what you're able to accomplish because you're unfettered by the machine's foibles but more capable because you've learned how to work around all the cheapo machine's shortcomings. Hope you're able to afford a parallelogram style jointer of some brand and size, it's a quantum leap from what you've been using. Best, Matt
Maybe a dumb question, but after you run a wider than 8 inch board over the jointer and left with the overhang lug, couldn't you just flip the piece around, and feed the piece, lug side down, against the fence, getting rid of the lug?
There is a way to do that John, but it's not as predictable, accurate or consistent so I use the method shown in the video because less than excellent results aren't acceptable IMHO. FWIW your question isn't dumb but shows intelligent thought process and reasoning IMHO!
It's difficult to oversize your jointer by much more than 50%. If you practice with 6in boards you might be able to get a 7 but the physics start to get in the way and leave less-than-desirable results. If you need to do many 8-inch boards I would suggest looking into a sled for your thickness planer to get the job done. I don't have a video on it but there's a couple out there on RUclips that are worthwhile. I don't use a sled as a rule because it's slower than this method but until you're able to get a larger Joiner it might be you're only practical solution.. and it's really not that bad BTW The name's Matt😁😎
Great video! I'm blown away to see a Master Craftsman using a Dewalt 735! Seems the Powermatic would completely outshine the Dewalt. My questions: 1) Is the Dewalt your primary thickness planer, or just the one you had on hand for this video? 2) Since you can obviously afford the Powermatic platform, why did you choose the Dewalt? 3) Did you upgrade the Dewalt to a helical head? Cheers!
An observation I truly believe is that 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts' Ben. For all day performance in a production setting I imagine a hefty Powermatic would 'completely outshine' my 735... but I've never done a job that I couldn't finish with impressive results and profitability without an oversized planer in the shop. The cocky side of me will bet you that I can get more out of a DeWalt in efficient, profitable productivity than many with a Powermatic or other industrial machine can. You are correct in that I can afford virtually any planer I choose and am still completely content and satisfied with my DeWalt. I see no need to 'upgrade' to a helical head either, although again, it's not a question of affordability. I drive a 1/2 ton short bed pickup and do a surprising amount of hauling with it even though I could easily (but unwillingly) afford a full sized bed and a trailer or two... another way to look at it is 'it's not how much you make but how much you keep' that counts. Not properly accounting for overhead likely causes many with a 'bigger is better' mindset to subsidize customers projects and end up failing in business... I appreciate your comment and hope this unexpected answer doesn't drive you away... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Drive me away?! No way. Hooked me to subscribe. Thank you for your candid response, and for sharing your knowledge in these videos. Cheers!
Glad you like the info Richard. The sign on my jointer is one I saw somewhere and adopted it for use in the shop as a humorous but true reminder to think clearly and work safely. BTW you can get one in sticker from from the Next Level Carpentry Swag Shop at Teespring here: teespring.com/stores/next-level-carpentry-swag-shop along with other video related gear. Best, Matt
Exactly Clark... you should be able to do about 9" or so if you work carefully with your 6" jointer and pay attention with each step. I actually began using this method when I had only a 6" machine. I wasn't limited by its capabilities as much as it just slowed me down since little of my work exceeds 8" width. Being able to do 8" stuff in a single operation on an 8" jointer allowed me to be more efficient than having to use this method for stuff in the 6" ~8" range. Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I knew there was a way to do that having read it sometime in the past, but could not remember the exact sequence. Now I know. Michael O’Brien Alabama, USA
Hey Michael... good to know this video refreshed your memory about a useful 'sequence'... I use this quite often and hope you find it helpful for projects you're doing too! Best, Matt
Sorry if this is a dumb question but if the planer board is flat and it transfers the flatness to the other side, cant you just use that without even using the jointer?
Your question is a bit obscure Brandon but methods like the one I show in this video are necessary to flatten certain boards. The key point is that planers do not flatten boards that are not flat, making the jointer necessary, as shown in the video. Best, Matt
What kind of jointer would you recommend that's for hobbyists? I am new to woodworking and want something that will last and won't have to buy another. Thoughts on grizzly jointers? Spiral cutterheads?
I've never been a fan of Jet and Grizzly Sam... I just don't like their overall 'fit and finish' even though I'm sure plenty of people do fine with them. If budget is an issue I'd think about finding and old used Delta or Powermatic because they tended to be very well built with wear parts available for replacement so they should virtually last for ever. Spiral cutterheads are better suited to jointers than thickness planers IMHO and if you can manage/afford an upgrade to one, on whatever jointer you end up with, you'll be glad you did. Since you are new to woodworking I'll tell you that jointers need to be set up right or they'll do more harm than good. Find and thoroughly read the owner's manual for any machine you get or are considering. Understanding and internalizing what the manual says will take you a long way in the right direction for achieving peak performance and results. The rest comes from experience, so look forward to spending some time using, observing and understanding what's going on when you run wood over a jointer. Proficiency on that machine will take you a long way towards becoming a much better woodworker. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I am buying a 20 yr Delta DJ15 this weekend. Original owner, hobby use, in great shape. My first 6" jointer was a ridgid but ex wife sold it. I would prefer a 8" but not in the budget.
@@tallyman15 my first 'real' joiner was a DJ15 and was a primary motivator to develop the 'supersize' method shown in this video. The main thing I got with the upgrade to an 8" model was efficiency because many pieces end up being between 6" and 8" but few over 9~10". So you'll be covered for most of what you encounter albeit a little less efficient over 6". BTW the parallelogram feature of the DJ is so much of a time saver over a hand-crank design that you'll not likely feel the inefficiency. Best, Matt PS Don't forget SandFlex blocks and paste wax to restore the cast iron on your 'new' jointer! ruclips.net/video/YIE50o5pS6U/видео.html www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF3DBB6XLH5MPIEOBDKPL3MQVYTA/YOSYTOHYVP3C?ref=idea_share
Why does every You Tuber insist on talking about all the safety issues? Is this a safety video or a demonstration? The problem with making safety points is you don't cover them all in a demo video. Pick you subject and stick to it, nobody cares about all the other stuff.
Interesting perspective... I can't really imagine the sort of woodworking/carpentry video that would fit your myopic 'either/or' script parameters when, to anyone with any level of experience, understands that safety and technique are inseparably intertwined.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Pick a subject and stick to it. If not your going to loose viewers. We click on a video based on the title but get something else. Its wastes our time and flat out pisses us off. I didn't come here for a safety meeting, I was looking for a process.
@@petebusch9069 A true narcissist: by "We" you mean "you".
Any viewer I "loose" (misspellings and kindergarten grammar in comments pisses ME off!") because I take a little time to talk about safety issues directly related to what's being taught, I don't want in the first place. As they say "don't let the door hit you on your way out", and think of me when you're sitting in ER some day when you realize that related safety talk isn't a waste of time.
Words don’t do justice to the knowledge you share on this channel! Every video is worth every second of time required watch it! Best investment on RUclips!!
Thanks for the glowing review Jon... I'll do my best to live up to it!
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry you always do!
I'm just now getting into woodworking and carpentry and I am learning VOLUMES from your content. Being new to the craft, your emphasis on safety is greatly appreciated.
I was happy how you explain that quick way to find the correct thickness to set the planer. Lowering it onto the wood until it engages. Then a little. Brilliant !!
Can't be beat Michael... once you make it a habit you'll save a considerable amount of guessing and frustration... at least I did. 😎 Best, Matt
You and the Finish Carpentry TV are my go to guys for inspiration, good to see you both admiring one an other's work.
Richard's an amazing guy, Ted... you'll not go wrong follow his experiences and advise! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry So true bud, but you're the one who lit the fire under this old guy to build one more home before the dirt nap. You and those box beams provided some answers on a home I think those would be a solution. Going to try my hand on it. Looking at the picture of this home, I think Box beams could be the solution of lower the cost from a Post and Beam look.
@@tedfritsch3340 you go, man!! Far better to wear out than to rust out, right?! 😎
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ruclips.net/user/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
I’m one of the lucky ones that got a 6” planer, for $ 60.00 bucks at a yard sale! With new blades . Thanks 🙏 this was very help full! Ironworker Doug! Out.
Congrats, Doug... I first started using this back when I had a 6" jointer and think you'll be pleased/amazed at how simple it is to expand your jointer's capacity! Best, Matt
Great educational video. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate how to accommodate a board wider than your joiner.
Genius, I have watched dozens of other vid's to supersize jointers but they all fall far short of your simple method. You are a master please keep the video's coming
Thanks Tom; I've always felt that part of 'mastery' is sifting through many options to dial in to the one that's most effective and efficient and then tuning that best option to optimize it for the task at hand. The Irish carpenter I learned much from in my formative years referred to it as 'getting a system' for a given job. Sounds like you're doing exactly that... hope you're able to do better work faster using this method next time you encounter over-width boards. Best, Matt
Great video - nice that you go unscripted without a bunch of "uhs" and "you knows" but you still catch the goofs and provide captioned corrections. And this is just brilliant content as well.
Thanks David! Truth be told, the absence of "uhs", "ummm"s and "you knows" is more a factor of the miracle of post production editing software than my abilities to perform in a non-distracting manner but I do appreciate your 'review' more than you know...
Kind of off topic, but I just wanted to let you know what a great company Delta is. Our home was destroyed by an F-4 tornado in Southern Maryland 18 1/2 years ago. It was picked up in one piece and moved about 9 ft. When it came down, one corner of the house landed on my Delta Contractor saw. I sent pictures to Delta, and they called to tell me they were giving me a new table saw! I explained to them that I had already bought a new table saw, so they asked me if I needed anything else. I told them I had been thinking about an 8in. jointer. They sent me a brand new 8in. DJ-20, $1,650, to my temporary house, completely free of charge with no shipping!!! To say I was overwhelmed is an understatement!! They have a news letter and they told everyone what happened, and they titled the story "Delta Saves Lives" I use my beloved jointer every day and absolutely love it! Think about this story when you buy your next piece of equipment. By the way, I have been using your method of jointing wider boards for years, and it works flawlessly!
Awesome idea! I had ruled out any jointers less than 12" because I didn't want to have a jointer that couldn't flatten a board that is less than the widest board I'd run into for my purposes. I was pretty much resigned to the idea that I'd have to get a 12" jointer/planer combo machine to get the most out of one machine and save some money. This video gives me all new reason to start reconsidering buying separate machines with smaller capacities. Very cool and extremely informative. Thank you sir:)
Good on you for thoughtful consideration of machinery choices Luis. My reasoning in choosing an 8" model is that no matter how big a jointer I got there would ALWAYS be a time when I needed the next size up. I developed this method back when I had a 6" jointer and frequently found myself working a bunch of material over 6" wide. It was more practical to upgrade the jointer than use this process for so much and so often; it might have been 30% of the time? Jumping up to 8" capacity means I only have to use this method like 2% of the time so the trade off is painless. With that in mind I'd think through what you expect the majority of your projects to be and choose something that's efficient for say 95% of your work and get the best quality machine you can afford for it. No need to get a 12" model that you need once a year. BTW I'd choose a 6" 'parallelogram' style jointer over an 8" model without that feature ANY day. Adjustment with a parallelogram style is SO much more efficient it would offset the wider capacity immediately. I highly recommend a helical head for any jointer as well... it increases performance dramatically and is well worth any extra cost if you can afford it. Best, Matt
Thank you for this video. I was stressing about the price of a 10”+ jointer. Most of what I need to flatten is
RnBergman: my reasoning is exactly like yours! I recommend getting the best 8" jointer you can afford and a helical cutterhead with rabbeting capability like the Byrd Shelix design... that's imperative if you plan to 'supersize' it. Also; unless the jointer has parallelogram adjustment capability you'll be frequently frustrated by slow depth of cut adjustments which you'll need a LOT for this type operation. In an act of shameless self-promotion I'd ask that if you happen to settle on a Powermatic PJ882 like you see in the video and don't buy it locally I'd sure appreciate it it you'd use this link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0007DHHEM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ You get the same low online pricing and free shipping from Amazon plus they help support production of free videos here at Next Level Carpentry 😉😎
Work safely and enjoy! Best, Matt
I will point out Cutech makes helical jointers and planers that are priced in the US$600-800 range. They seem to get good reviews.
Excellent video and technique! Another method is to joint all the boards to the capacity of your jointer and glue them together to the width of your planer. Rinse and repeat and there is no limit to the width of your panel. Maybe not as accurate but you’ll get there in the end.
I never thought of turning on the planer and lowering it just until it catches the wood and pulls it through. Very good time saver.
Good eye... I think you'll find it much quicker and more accurate than trying to measure or use the planer's depth gauge. Once you get used to it you'll realize the time savings you mention. Best, Matt
No need for the patent… my grandfather invented the cocktail umbrella and the Swivel Straw. This was an informative video and will help with my Jet 42” jointer and Dewalt 735X. Thanks for the time.
Wow, ttats great, i have a 24 inch sander, so my 10 inch jointer is now a 14 or even 16 onch jointer. Thank you.
Very Very cool use of the jig....that's what I am going to use...I have a 8-inch PM jointer and a 20" PM Planer...making a 10 inch wide walnut plank table...thank you
Should work like a charm, Jack... good luck and work safely! Best, Matt
Nicely explained. I been using the platen trick for years. Maybe we're related. Lol. The other trick I use for real wide stuff is with using a sled, some shims and hot glue, and feed the whole mess through the planer. It works great too.
Thanks for commenting, Hardnox, we must both be alums of The School of Hardnox! The 'other trick' you mention is definitely effective when and where this method falls short. I like to use a slab of LVL lumber for the sled you mention but will adopt the hot glue idea you've added... never thought of that! I end up using screws and small nails for the shims which never goes all that well. Best, Matt
Lol. Apparently.
A hunk of LVL is a great idea. Mine is two pieces of 3/4" MDF which is waxed. The shims pop right off with the wax.
How long and wide is your MDF sled? I really like the idea but am curious if it's stiff enough at 6' or 8' in length. Can't beat the smooth waxed surface for shims and hot melt though!
Thanks for adding this to the discussion, Hardnox, I appreciate it and bet other viewers will too... Best, Matt
Thanks. My pleasure. These forums are wonderful for sharing information, and as it should be. I have 3 sleds made from one sheet of 3/4" MDF. I have 2 planers (12" & 24") My sleds are 11-7/8" wide by 3', 5', and 8' lengths and they remain flat and straight after many years. All are double ply (1-1/2"). I have no issue with 24" workpieces. I also use the sleds with my 19-38 Shopmaster drum sander using 40 grit paper when I'm in a hurry and have dull planer blades (and don't feel like changing/sharpening them). As you know I make heirloom furniture often using slabs. Often, I run a wide slab on my jointer, multiple times until flat, then attach it to the sled and run it through the sander or jointer. Heck, whatever works is my motto. WestphaliaWoodWorks.com Best regards, Peter
I'm with you on the 'whatever works' motto, Peter. I feel hypocritical sometimes doing a video demonstrating a technique of some sort and then going out to the shop and doing a similar process a different way because it's the the best method at the moment. From your sled inventory I can tell you have to manage a wide range of variables and getting too committed to any one method hobbles production. Best, Matt
Excellent idea!! You just turned my new 6" Jet Jointer into a 12" jointer!!
It's like magic, right Greg? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Yes it is Matt! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with those of us who are weekend warriors!
Thank you for this video!! I watched a different video that showed the same process ,but didn’t understand the process. Your video was very descriptive and I ‘got it’ after watching your video!!!
Thanks for letting me know Micah... I really try to convey processes clearly but it's easy to gloss over details important to viewers and not even realize it.
Best, Matt
Platen Pending. Thumbs up earned sir.
So much for not going into deep details. But I am sure glad you did. Because I learned something new today that will save a lot of time. Thank you for sharing your talents and experience.
Yeah, so much for 'keeping the video short' too, right? Can't help myself 😏
You're welcome, Jesse! Best, Matt
Thank you for the video. Working on a project now with really wide boards and thinking about spending $10-15K more on bigger jointers and planers...NOT! I appreciate your tip. Liked and subscribed.
Now why didn’t I think of that? How simple and helpful this video is. Thank you so much for taking the time.
Good idea. I only have a mounted 3.5" jointer and just got a planer so this tip will help me flatten bigger boards until I can afford a bigger jointer.
Just cool the way that works, isn't it Chris? Same process I went through starting out a ridiculously long time ago with a 4" delta machine. Best thing is you'll be better off in the long run learning to work through this adversity than you would starting out with a 8" or 12" machine... it may be some time before you believe me but I think someday you'll find it true. Best, Matt
I appreciate this advice, I've been really avoiding buying a planer and jointer because the size of a jointer is expensive.
Buy as much jointer width as you can justify and afford, James... this will definitely help out but the more you start with, the more you can do. BTW I started out with a 4" width Delta and, with sufficient determination, was able to do some pretty impressive projects. That said I'm not going to give up the 8" Powermatic without a fight! 😀😎 Best, Matt
Fortunately, today, you can get a 10 inch jointer/planer combo for around $550. In Europe, it's called Scheppach HMS1070; it's a re-branded chinese brand (probably "Wen").
If you're on a much tighter budget, you can search RUclips on how to make a jointer out of a hand-held power planer.
If you're choosing between a jointer and a planer, I think choosing the planer will be the best choice, especially because you can use it this way:
ruclips.net/video/G8o4P-aM8UE/видео.html
(or similar, because you can make improved variants)
68HC060 With next to no budget, I took a used hand power plane and built a frame and extension shoe. It gets the job done.
I haven’t gotten around to building a guard for it, so I am very very careful around it.
i literally ran into this issue with my new jointer and wasnt sure what to do. appreciate this tip!!
Shows you're pushing the limits of what you have to work with which, to me, is always a good sign. It's not what you got that counts but how you use it Bryan! Best, Matt
This is a great idea. One thing that is not obvious in your video is the pressure you put on the board when going through the jointer. It should be just enough to let the cutters work but not so much that you flex the board. If you push too hard you are replicating what a planer does.
That's right Richard... I hope that your clarification helps other viewers get the same results I do by avoiding the use of too much pressure while feeding the board through. Best, Matt
If I am right, there should be more of an effort or pressure on fence to keep a 90 (at least when on edge) than on cutterhead. I normally put maybe 20% pressure down and 30% pressure against fence and the other 50% is praying that I am feeding the stock in the right way and avoiding tearout LOL
For jointing, keep enough pressure against fence to keep board in contact, but not so much as to flex the board. Above might work for facing if the board is quite thick and the edge has been jointed.
Mostly I try to rock the board on the jointer table a bit to find the high spots (if board is bowed up or twisted). Put the most pressure on the forward high spot and maintain the pressure all the way onto and along the outfield table.
If bowed side is down, put pressure in middle of board.
@@PatonMacD
@@francismccabe3265 Pretty good narrative here... thanks! Best, Matt
Thank you Matt, excellent video! I’m receiving my first jointer tomorrow and (was) concerned with its 6” capacity! Keep the tips coming Matt, you seriously are appreciate!
You're most welcome... and FYI I used a 6" jointer for many years before upgrading to the 8" I have now. It was mostly for convenience rather than capability because there wasn't really anything I needed to do with a 6" that I couldn't, it's just that the 8" allows me to do it a bit faster and more efficiently. BTW I'd rather have a well-tuned and accurate 6" machine than an unreliable 8"... it's not what you got but how you use it that counts most😎 Enjoy that new toy... and work cautiously as you get to know it's capabilities and potential dangers? Best, Matt
Excellent imparting of woodwork knowledge/experience, thank you.
Where I am from, a lug is an insult.
Going to grab a bottle from the top shelf some evening & take a shot every time you mention the aforementioned lug. 😆🍻 No power tools will be used. Respect.
As a person new to planers and jointers, this is such a great idea, thanks for sharing !!
Awesome tip I usually use a hand plane after which works great but after a inch or so like 9” - 9 1/2 it can take awhile definitely going to make this setup. Greatly appreciated take care my friend
You're totally welcome, Thom, hope you are able to get more done quicker with this method over the hand-plane technique. I've really pushed the limits of this method for the 'gnarly' boards I mentioned and am always pleased and amazed by what I'm able to get away with using it... as I'm sure you'll be. Best, Matt
Thanks so much, I just got a planer and a jointer and was trying to figure out how to do this. Great tip.
Those two machines will really up your game Shayne... have fun, work safe... and keep watching NLC videos? Best, Matt
Wow as a new woodworker want to be this was a huge help thank you so much for posting
Thanks Todd... hope you find other videos from Next Level Carpentry help you learn to work through other common woodworking challenges as you develop your skillset. There's a fair amount of content here for use and maintenance of a thickness planer that you might find interesting and/or helpful. Best, Matt
Great tip thanks. I was just in the shop today working on a few cedar slabs that I need to get in order for a table and wondering if I could do something like this and then found your video. Gotta love RUclips
Sweet! Thanks for letting me know... lovin' The Tube! Best, Matt
Acumen - a power to see what is not evident to the average mind. There you have it sir!
I'll try to live up to your compliment Jack... thank you! Best, Matt
A few genius ideas that will certainly save me a lot of cash. Thanks
Very straightforward and helpful. Thanks!
Slick process. I have a DeWalt 735 and a Delta 8" parallelogram jointer. Will attempt your method in near future.
Have heard about the rabbit ting feature of the jointer. However have never seen the process. Any chance you might post a video on rabbiting with a jointer?
Thanks Bob... approach this method with your full attention and you'll do fine. As far as a dedicated rabbeting video I don't forsee it in the video line up but I actually cover its essentials in this video. What I'm doing is actually making a very wide rabbeted board where the rabbet itself is a full 8" wide x about 1/8" deep. It seems less like a rabbet because the 'lug' of wood on the edge of the board that doesn't get planed off is so narrow by comparison. The comment I make here: ruclips.net/video/vzmSjlXJ2fg/видео.html is a key part of the process because you need to cut the rabbet to full depth and width in ONE PASS if you don't remove the rabbeting shelf. I believe your Delta jointer has a removable ledge so it should be possible to remove the ledge for rabbets that require multiple passes since only when the ledge is removed will the board remain down flat on the infeed table after the first pass. This will make sense when you experiment. Re-watch the video starting about 3:00 or so keeping in mind the operation you're thinking about and how it differs from the result I'm after here. BTW while a jointer is fully capable of rabbeting operations I rarely use it for a number of reasons. First is that the cutting action of the ends of the jointer knives (or just the tip of the very last carbide cutter) cuts the shoulder of the rabbet which can leave it a bit ragged. 2nd is that boards any wider than 3" or so are hard to keep flat when ploughing a narrow but deep rabbet. For consistently accurate rabbeting I much prefer a dado blade in a tablesaw. Hope that helps... Best, Matt
Great video Matt as I have a 6 inch Powermatic jointer and usually rip 8 inch boards to join. Very well done video which will save me a lot of time and money (not buying a larger jointer)!!
Not sure if you're out of the woods yet Michael... does your 6" Powermatic have the parallelogram adjustment mechanism? It's worth every penny... actually every $100 bill... extra that it costs. I'd sooner do with a 6" capacity WITH parallelogram than the 8" capacity without. I'm well aware I've just jeopardized a 'friend' by telling you this... sorry😬😁 Best, Matt
Great jig to get the job done!
Great tips,thanks for sharing ,cheers Colin.
I love the caution sign on the jointer.
A fantastic idea to flatten wider boards that your jointer can handle, thanks for sharing this.
*Sees MDF board* Slaps head. Why didn't I figure that out sooner? I rhought there was some way to widen the jointer, but then realized that it wouldn't work when I saw the jointer blade. So basically wider planer > wider jointer. in importance. Brilliant!
Awesome idea.... common sense.. I love your channel. Thanks for all the information.
Glad you like Next Level Carpentry Dwight... you're quite welcome and thanks for commenting! Best, Matt
I gotta say, and no disrespect, but i like the guy that does all the really fast work and dosent do all the talking better than the guy who talks all the time, he seems alot nicer and i personally think he takes a bit more pride in his appearance. A bit like Al Borland from tool time with tim Allen...... thats what you two guts remind me of.... "i dont think so tim"
Lol keep up the great work, im totally new to woodworking and carpentry and am enjoying learning as muvh as i can, as i have a broken back so can no longer have a job, so i spend my days trying to absorbe as much information as possible.....
So sorry to hear of your back injury Adrian but admire your determination to continue learning about woodworking and carpentry. It's an interesting and challenging field of work with some aspects being less demanding physically so I hope it's fulfilling for you. I wish I could put as much time and effort into all Next Level Carpentry videos as I did this one but it's just not practical at this point so some are more watch-able than others. Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I am looking at getting a Jet JJ-6HHDX 6" Jointer with helical head and a DeWalt DW735X Planer. Your tip will save me from ripping then re-gluing wider boards.
You're totally welcome, Mark! I think you'll be quite pleased with what you're able to accomplish with the setup you describe and using this method. You should be able to push the limits of this and flatten stuff 10" or so using a 6" jointer. As I mentioned I've done some pretty wide stuff by cantilevering off the 8" platten 4~5 inches. The wider the piece, the lighter the pass. You can imagine/visualize the physics as you approach 100% cantilever as the feed rollers want to equalize pressure and tend to tilt the workpiece but if you're paying attention and 'sneak up on it' you can push the limits and still get great results. If you get into some gnarly/wide stuff there's always the method Hardnox describes in his comment below. Best, Matt
Nice video. I've seen others like this and you explained and demonstrated it well for newbies to understand. I do have a question, though...why are your spray cans upside down?
ruclips.net/video/5Mo_6bD85_Y/видео.html
@@NextLevelCarpentry I dig it! I've always done the flip and spray to clear the nozzle, but hadn't considered storing them upside down. This makes perfect sense and I feel like I owe you some money for the future dollars you've just saved me lmao. Thanks!
You're the man. I have a mantel I'm building and the top is wider than my planer. Now I feel confident I can overcome my obstacle. Thanks for your time and ingenuity. God bless!
Happens all the time Mark. Approach this with forethought and follow the systematic process and you should do well. Blessings backatcha! Best, Matt
Great video. Saw it just in time! Thanks. Does it matter how long the "platten" board is or do just need to clear the ends of the infeed and outfeed tables plus a couple of inches? How about the width? I assume as much jointed surface as you can get on the platten with a bit of clearance and obviously not more than the cutting capacity of the planer...
You got it Vincent... if I'm not in the shop I just use what I have on hand... as long as you meet the criteria you describe it will work. If you're making a dedicated platen it's nice to have it equal in width to the cut of you jointer and I like it better if it's a little longer than the length from the beginning of the infeed table to the end of the outfeed table. That way everything feeds smoothly and you have a little length for a 'stop block' on the underside of the infeed end. It sounds like you totally get it but I'll mention that waxing the surface to make it slick/smooth as possible makes a real difference in performance of the setup. Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. I'm wondering whether another potential video would be functionally extending the length of a planer outfeed table to assist in the jointing of long boards.
@@VinceEspositoJr while that would be a great topic it takes me forEVer to take videos from concept to publication (because I do the entire process by my lonesome) you can get a good idea of how I'm able to deal with long boards in this section of my most recent video upload: ruclips.net/video/sxBsNEYp140/видео.html Granted I show using a planer sled but you'll see how I use two custom roller stands to virtually extend the length of the planer's infeed and outfeed tables to handle large/wide/heavy boards with relative ease. BTW making these custom stands is the topic of my next video project on the channel...
Best, Matt
How would this process be modified if working with a jointer that did not have a removable rabbeting ledge and with a board that required multiple passes?
Go back and forth removing the lug until you achieve enough of a jointed surface to then proceed to the planer?
With great difficulty, if at all. You're pretty well restricted to working with straighter/flatter material without more capable machines... sorry. 😌 Your best bet is probably using a planer sled in a thickness planer... it's a bit more time consuming but can circumvent lack of a 'professional' jointer. Best, Matt
Excellent tip! Using the platen is much easier and quicker than double-side taping a spacer. I will never understand why people would hit the thumbs down button on a video like this. Simple, to the point and great information. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. As I’m sure you know, the static on that exhaust hose is killer, and it looks like you’ve got yours grounded. Can you briefly describe how you set that up? Thanks.
Pretty low-tech Steve. I just put a crimp-on terminal on one end of a piece of heavy stranded copper wire, attached it to a metal part on the back of the planer with a screw that's already there and then wrap the wire loosely around the PVC outlet pipe setup I have. Simple as that. BTW I now use anti-static flex hose from Air Handling Systems so a ground wire is no longer necessary...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks Matt.
@@stevemeigh5071 For sure... BTW if you check into anti static hose talk to their guy Kae... super helpful guy...
Great video/videos! You make it look so easy using Plain (excuse the pun) sense - followed by the application. -Just spent an hour viewing your other videos...Looking forward to watching and learning from the rest! Job well done!..ken
Thanks Ken... much appreciated. Hope you'll subscribe if you've not already? Plenty more to come.... Best, Matt
That is one sharp looking video thumbnail and nice work on the ad lib, Pro RUclipsr and Master Carpenter!
Thanks for your comment here Mr Dan! Some day I'll introduce you to the creative guy who's responsible for that great new Next Level Carpentry graphics update. Spoiler: his initials are D.S. 😁😎 Best, Matt
I noticed the ground wire on your PVC dust collection system for your planer. It took several high voltage shocks before I got annoyed enough to do the same!
I need to make some siding for my house because I have removed some windows. Is there a way I can use a jointer to make a board have a 1/8" top width with a 3/8" bottom width? Essentially having one side of the board flat with the other side having the bevel. Like a right angled trapezoid kind of shape.?
It would be tricky to get consistent results using a jointer but, with a thickness planer, it's easy-peasy! I show making an angled planer sled in this video: ruclips.net/video/NnqhdzwZTUc/видео.html which is the concept I'd use for making beveled lap siding like you need. Make the sled 1/4" higher on one edge than the other to produce the taper you need. Hope this helps... it's totally do-able! Good luck...
Best, Matt
I was wondering if you think this approach would work for one of the benchtop jointers. These jointers aren't parallelogram like yours and I'm not sure what thickness you could do a rebate/rabbet. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Great idea and thanks for taking the time to make a video.
LaVike whether or not this works on any jointer, bench top or floor model, (Parallellogram is merely an adjustment mechanism, not a capacity factor) is determined and defined by the machine's width and depth capabilities. It's an advanced technique that requires a higher level of understanding and experience to grasp but I can't think of a physical reason it wouldn't work with pretty much any jointer. Naturally it will work better on a better jointer but only because better jointers just work better... how's THAT for circular logic? Work safely if you decide to perform this process, OK?
@@NextLevelCarpentry, thank you very much for the reply! I agree on the better the jointer, the better the results. I just wasn't sure if it would work on one of the new benchtop jointers. I also appreciate that this is a very advanced technique. Thanks again!
Could you also make a platen for the infeed table of the jointer? The board would ride on the platen and thus be clear of the rabbeting shelf,. This would eliminate the need to remove the shelf.
Mike... your idea works in theory and probably also in a pinch or if no thickness planer is available but capacity and quality of the end result would likely be compromised as well.... never know what's possible until you try it! Cool part is that you're thinkin' about more options and I like that part! Best, Matt
Matt - thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't thinking of the jointer platen as a way of bypassing the thickness planer (I have an 18" Woodmaster planer), but simply to allow multiple passes on the jointer without removing the rabbeting shelf. In fact, on my 8" Grizzly jointer, the infeed table is wider than the cutter, so removing the shelf wouldn't help - the ridge left on the board after the first jointer pass would ride on the wide infeed table. So a platen on the jointer would be needed if multiple passes are to be made, at least with my Grizzly. I'll get a sheet of hardboard tomorrow and try it out.
@@MikeON22 Oh, OK, got it. I think you're on to something there... a guy could get a LOT done with a 1/4" mdf melamine 'overlay' platten the width and length of the infeed table! Just thinking out loud here: you'd have to make sure it was really secure and held down tight and then just set the depth of cut an extra 1/4" deep. The only limitation I can see at this point is if you needed to remove more than 1/4" of material to flatten the board because it wouldn't clear the rabbet shelf but would certainly work 90% of the time. Thanks for adding this Mike... good thinkin' !!! Best, Matt
@@MikeON22 I understand the table width to cutterhead width issue you mention. On my powermatic I use a 'rabbeting tip' in the Byrd Shelix spiral cutterhead so I can still rabbet. The unique shape of the one carbide insert removes that little shaving of wood so that the edge of the cut clears the outfeed table. Not sure if you actually meant your 'infeed table is wider than the cutter' or if you meant the outfeed table. If outfeed table, I always set straight knives to stick out of the cutterhead slightly on the left so the cut clears the outfeed table. With the spiral head the rabbeting tip addresses the issue. Just added this FYI in case it's new information for you, not like I think you need any schoolin' from me... 😏 Best, Matt
Tried it this morning and it worked great. Yes, it is the infeed table that extends beyond the cutter, on the side away from the fence. So I clamped a piece of hardboard to the infeed table and jointed an 8-1/2" oak board on my 8" nominal jointer. Then planed it with your method. Thanks for the tip about the rabbeting inserts. I wasn't aware they existed, so ordered some for my Byrd Shelix spiral cutter and installed them.
Wow!! Thank you so much!! That is a brilliant work around. I only have a 6 inch jointer so this trick will be very useful as I have the same planer that you have.
I developed this process when I still had a 6" Delta machine Jerry... it will expand your capabilities considerably... have fun and work safely! Best, Matt
Now that's a slick trick ,i got it, Thanks
This is a great idea! Thank you for sharing it with us
Good thinking. I need to get a jointer. Maybe one day. haha.
You already accomplish some pretty cool projects (like the mantle you did awhile back) without a jointer, FCTV, I can imagine what you'll tackle and accomplish if/when you add a jointer to your tool arsenal! Thanks for the comment... much appreciated here! Best, Matt
Finish love your youtube picking up my first jointer an planer this weekend
Great Video! Thanks for the trick.
Just a thought and maybe I'm not thinking properly but could you move your fence over far enough to have the planed part of the board overhang and run your board over to plane down the last bit to match.
MrCFerren,
Not sure if I know exactly what you mean but it would be really difficult to plane off the 'lug' on the edge of the board on the jointer... it tends to get thrown off by irregularities you're trying to remove in the first place... that's why the platten and thickness planer method works so well. Best, Matt
Necessity is the mother of all inventions.
Just bought an 8inch jointer but the on/off switch was not wired and came with no wiring instructions. Have searched the internet but can't find any tutorial how to wire this thing.
I'm just getting started with a jointer. Do you have a recommendation for a brand or style of push block? Thank you for your videos! They are really great! I appreciate your in-depth content and straight-forward style of presentation.
For liability purposes I can't make a recommendation but I can tell you what I use for push blocks in the NLC shop.
For years I used the stock ones that came with my Powermatic jointer until a viewer sent me a pair of simple coarse rubber tile grout floats like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B0014XZK3Y/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
I found them to be THEE BEST I've ever used... but that's just me. I see one potential issue in that the backer on these is aluminum, not plastic, and, if it ever got caught up in the jointer's cutterhead it could be catastrophic.
Glad you like NLC videos! FWIW When I first 'discovered' what a jointer was, what is was used for, and began to use one, it revolutionized my woodworking/carpentry world so I anticipate a bright future for you too!
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Awesome! I really appreciate the reply, and the encouragement!
This was a solid idea man, thanks for sharing
Cant wait until you make a video about those run out stands you made! I keep getting hung up on my cheapo Harbor Freight rollers on my incredibly uneven driveway pushing a board through. Good stuff!
Great trick, thanks for sharing.
Very simple and efficient method. Great video. (BTW, at one point in my career, I did actually own a 24" Oliver jointer! When I got tired, I could take a nap on top of it. When I moved and couldn't fit it into the next shop, the good-bye was tearful...)
Thanks for your comment and opinion... I can imagine the tears when being separated from a fine old Oliver machine... I feel your pain, brother! 'take a nap on top of it' LOL! Hope your ability to comment means you've made it through the weighty life events you mentioned last time we 'talked' and are back up and about? Best, Matt
After the first pass the lug still rides on the in feed table and is no longer flat. It takes more off the fence side of board. I still use it and hand plane the lug after every pass. A lot easier than hand planing the whole board.
The whole point of the video, John, is to show that this flattening process can be done completely in one pass to eliminate hand planing which is definitely 'a lot easier than' ANY hand planing.
Thanks for the great tip!
What’s the model of your DeWalt Planer?
It's their DW735 and it's the second one of the same model I've owned. I do a considerable amount of planing for my custom carpentry/millwork business and sold the first unit after quite a few years to make sure I have a reliable, top performing machine when working on client projects. It's by far the best value for a planer of its size/class on the market and has been for quite a few years IMHO. I can't really imagine being disappointed if you purchase and use one of these. Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry thank you for the info 🙏🏻
For sure! If you find time to check out other NLC videos you'll see that machine put to use often on projects featured in them and maybe learn or clever trick or two to get more out of your planer...
Best, Matt
Brilliant! Does the glue on take care of the snipe, or would you have to put one on each side?
Hello there, I think your vids are great thank you for your skills sharing. I have a question. I’m looking for suggestions on how to glue up 1x1 strips to make a square, though I’m thinking of gluing them at diff lengths to stager and eventually obtain lengths of 30-40 inches. Would you have suggestions on how and possibly what kind of glue to be flexible to maintain the wood glued due to bending or pressure..?
Thanks for the tip. Very useful info.
Hope you get to put this to use ESOT... Best, Matt
Matt, wonderful idea and explanation! Don’t fuss about “unscripted” vids...we are not trolls ready to pounce on every detail! We love your teaching! So, question, would you do a 2 min., vid on the drawer pulls on the storage center behind the DeWalt planer? THose look sweet!
Thanks for your tolerance and understanding, John, without it from you and other viewers Next Level Carpentry wouldn't stand a chance!
I've never really considered doing a '2 minute video' but might just to see if I could and address your question at the same time. Are you referring to pulls in the wood faced drawers behind the planer or the white plastic 'drawers'?
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm guessing he meant the wood faced drawers, although those seem rather simple, although time-consuming. (at least the way I would do it)
My guess would be a plunge router to remove the majority, then a different bit (dovetail or in the same category) to undercut the upper wall to give your fingers something to grasp.
Personally, I would prefer mallet and chisels, but that is a lot of drawers and would take a lot longer!
So, did I get close?
:D
Great video. Loved every minute!
@@kevingraves7431 I bet you're right. I'm pretty sure I made those with a 'drawer pull bit' in a router back in the day: www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EFVS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ It would be a tricky operation but less so using a forstner bit to start the process. Glad to know you liked the video BTW thanks for watching... Best, Matt
Invaluable, Matt. Great video. You’ve clearly been around the block a time or two- if you were working in a small space, which combination would you choose? 6” jointer with a 15” planer; or an 8” jointer with a 13” lunchbox planer? All parties have helical cutters.
Hey Dan, As I am actually working in a relatively small space my choice, hands down, is the 8" jointer and 13" planer. I don't consider the DW735 a 'lunchbox planer' though as it's large height adjustment 'pillar' footprint give it great snipe-reducing operation compared to lesser models that are wider than they are long. In 20 years of self employed work I've not had a single project I couldn't handle with excellence with this combination. In fact I started out with a 6" jointer and chose to upgrade it to an 8 rather than upgrade the planer to a 20. I don't mean to be flippant when I say 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts'. If you're planing all day, every day and profitability relies solely on planer throughput then a planer upgrade makes perfect sense. Thanks for watching and commenting here... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry Wow... I can’t tell you how much this helps!! I’ve been on the fence with the 735x for a while, but I really think I’ll pull the trigger, and then throw the extra bucks at a Grizzly G0856. Appreciate the input Matt!
I wouldn't feel comfortable sharing that opinion / advice if I felt you would regret it... let us know how it goes?
Exercise a bit of extra precaution as you set up and get used to those new machines because unfortunately they're as good at removing flesh as they are at removing wood😎
Thanks for the info Easy Peasy can't wait to try it
You're welcome, Dennis. It's a little surprising how well this works for how simple it is. If you start with shorter pieces to get the hang of it you'll be amazed with what you can get away with on more gnarly stuff... Best, Matt
Hypothetically speaking, can a jointer be used as a planer? Meaning, if you run a piece of wood over the jointer isn't it the same as having gone through the planer? I mean it is still flattened on one side. I say this because I do not work with raw wood as all of mine is dimensioned lumber from the mill. I do not need a planer but might have use of a jointer. So if I bought an 8 inch jointer maybe I could use it like a planer up to its 8 inch capacity.
Hey Jeff: a few facts to consider: A jointer can be used as a planer but is limited to accuracy on only single faces of boards. Even 'dimensioned lumber from the mill' can, and frequently does, have twist in it that's unacceptable to me. What's essential is having TWO flat faces that are in parallel planes... and THAT property is only accomplished efficiently with the combination of jointer and thickness planer. If you've a choice of only one machine, go with the thickness planer since a planer can be used as a substitute for a jointer for flattening boards (by using a sled) but a jointer won't work as a thickness planer with any useful degree of accuracy IMHO. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you.
Thanks for the tip!
If you had to get a new jointer, would you go with Powermatic again or would you consider other brands (and why)?
You're welcome, Muru! For your question: Unless something new has come on the market that I don't know about since I bought the Powermatic, yes, I would definitely buy the same machine again. It's tough to beat the fit and finish of the PJ88 and the LONG infeed and outfeed tables make my life much easier. BTW I bought the straight-knife version of the PJ88 and installed a Byrd Shelix cutterhead rather than buying the PJ88HH which comes with the Powermatic helical cutterhead. The reason I did that is because it was essential for me to have the capability to rabbet pieces (for exactly the reason shown in this video) and, at the time anyways, Shelix offered the special 'rabbeting tip' cutters for their cutterhead while no one at Powermatic would tell me if their cutterhead offered rabbeting capability or not... that was bewildering to me considering the handicap of selling jointers that can't perform a rabbeting operation.
That said: the main weakness of the Powermatic is the fence angle adjustment mechanism which, as I mention in other videos, has an angle reading which is more 'range finder' than angle gauge IMHO. I could be convinced to switch brands if I could keep all the Powermatic features I use and love but get a functionally reliable fence. Let me know if you have other questions on this and I'll try to respond? Oh: whatever brand you end up with one of the most important features for any jointer IMHO is to have the parallelogram table adjustment. The depth adjustment speed and range is invaluable when milling rough stock. For initial passes on pieces it's not uncommon to go from 1/8" up to 1/2" depth of cut numerous times on a single project. With a parallelogram model that takes 2 seconds, with a hand-crank it would take many minutes. BTW models that have a lever adjustment but have 'ramp style' tables are a poor substitute: height adjustment is faster but accuracy suffers because the lever is weak for 'fine tuning' the cut depth.
Wow, that's a rather over-done response to a short question... hope it doesn't scare you off 🙄😁😎 Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. The feedback is much appreciated! I'm in the market for a new jointer, as you could guess from my question. Believe it or not, my current jointer is a cheapo Chinese 6" benchtop model with a total table length of barely 26". I've had it for almost 5 years and it still works, kinda, but it's really time I upgrade.
Muru, having to deal with and work with a 'cheapo' jointer is the best classroom you can attend for learning how to really use a machine. I started out with a couple old Delta 4" models, a pathetic Mongomery Ward 6" unit, then an 8" Delta and finally the Powermatic you see in this video. In depth knowledge comes from that experience and less-than-optimal equipment. Those that start out with top of the line stuff actually have a handicap that limits what they can do and how versatile they are in the craft IMHO. Once you have access to a superior machine you'll make great strides in what you're able to accomplish because you're unfettered by the machine's foibles but more capable because you've learned how to work around all the cheapo machine's shortcomings. Hope you're able to afford a parallelogram style jointer of some brand and size, it's a quantum leap from what you've been using.
Best, Matt
100% agree!
Does it matter which face to joint? Like am i supposed to joint the bowing/cupping face or the good face?
Maybe a dumb question, but after you run a wider than 8 inch board over the jointer and left with the overhang lug, couldn't you just flip the piece around, and feed the piece, lug side down, against the fence, getting rid of the lug?
There is a way to do that John, but it's not as predictable, accurate or consistent so I use the method shown in the video because less than excellent results aren't acceptable IMHO. FWIW your question isn't dumb but shows intelligent thought process and reasoning IMHO!
Sweet idea , thanks for sharing this great idea
Gary, what's widest you'll go over your planer width? Mine is only 4", but would love to keep 8" boards I tact.
It's difficult to oversize your jointer by much more than 50%. If you practice with 6in boards you might be able to get a 7 but the physics start to get in the way and leave less-than-desirable results. If you need to do many 8-inch boards I would suggest looking into a sled for your thickness planer to get the job done. I don't have a video on it but there's a couple out there on RUclips that are worthwhile. I don't use a sled as a rule because it's slower than this method but until you're able to get a larger Joiner it might be you're only practical solution.. and it's really not that bad
BTW The name's Matt😁😎
Another Great tip Matt..one that will help me down the road...Take care stay safe!😉
Smart woodworker! Thank you sir!
Great video! I'm blown away to see a Master Craftsman using a Dewalt 735! Seems the Powermatic would completely outshine the Dewalt. My questions: 1) Is the Dewalt your primary thickness planer, or just the one you had on hand for this video? 2) Since you can obviously afford the Powermatic platform, why did you choose the Dewalt? 3) Did you upgrade the Dewalt to a helical head? Cheers!
An observation I truly believe is that 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts' Ben. For all day performance in a production setting I imagine a hefty Powermatic would 'completely outshine' my 735... but I've never done a job that I couldn't finish with impressive results and profitability without an oversized planer in the shop. The cocky side of me will bet you that I can get more out of a DeWalt in efficient, profitable productivity than many with a Powermatic or other industrial machine can. You are correct in that I can afford virtually any planer I choose and am still completely content and satisfied with my DeWalt. I see no need to 'upgrade' to a helical head either, although again, it's not a question of affordability. I drive a 1/2 ton short bed pickup and do a surprising amount of hauling with it even though I could easily (but unwillingly) afford a full sized bed and a trailer or two... another way to look at it is 'it's not how much you make but how much you keep' that counts. Not properly accounting for overhead likely causes many with a 'bigger is better' mindset to subsidize customers projects and end up failing in business... I appreciate your comment and hope this unexpected answer doesn't drive you away... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Drive me away?! No way. Hooked me to subscribe. Thank you for your candid response, and for sharing your knowledge in these videos. Cheers!
@@Cactustone SAHWHEET! You're welcome... and thanks for subscribing. Much appreciated... and Happy New Year to you! Best, Matt
Good info, Did the Caution sign on the Jointer come with the machine or did you add it.
Glad you like the info Richard. The sign on my jointer is one I saw somewhere and adopted it for use in the shop as a humorous but true reminder to think clearly and work safely. BTW you can get one in sticker from from the Next Level Carpentry Swag Shop at Teespring here: teespring.com/stores/next-level-carpentry-swag-shop along with other video related gear. Best, Matt
You're alright in my book Thanks
So what if you have a 6 inch jointer? Same technique just can't go as wide?
Exactly Clark... you should be able to do about 9" or so if you work carefully with your 6" jointer and pay attention with each step. I actually began using this method when I had only a 6" machine. I wasn't limited by its capabilities as much as it just slowed me down since little of my work exceeds 8" width. Being able to do 8" stuff in a single operation on an 8" jointer allowed me to be more efficient than having to use this method for stuff in the 6" ~8" range. Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I knew there was a way to do that having read it sometime in the past, but could not remember the exact sequence. Now I know.
Michael O’Brien
Alabama, USA
Hey Michael... good to know this video refreshed your memory about a useful 'sequence'... I use this quite often and hope you find it helpful for projects you're doing too! Best, Matt
Once again, as always. Another incredibly helpful tip and video.
Thanks for commenting, Jon! Best, Matt
Great Tip. Thank you so much
You betcha, Bryan!
Best, Matt
Very nice idea , well done Matt .
Sorry if this is a dumb question but if the planer board is flat and it transfers the flatness to the other side, cant you just use that without even using the jointer?
Your question is a bit obscure Brandon but methods like the one I show in this video are necessary to flatten certain boards. The key point is that planers do not flatten boards that are not flat, making the jointer necessary, as shown in the video. Best, Matt
What kind of jointer would you recommend that's for hobbyists? I am new to woodworking and want something that will last and won't have to buy another. Thoughts on grizzly jointers? Spiral cutterheads?
I've never been a fan of Jet and Grizzly Sam... I just don't like their overall 'fit and finish' even though I'm sure plenty of people do fine with them. If budget is an issue I'd think about finding and old used Delta or Powermatic because they tended to be very well built with wear parts available for replacement so they should virtually last for ever. Spiral cutterheads are better suited to jointers than thickness planers IMHO and if you can manage/afford an upgrade to one, on whatever jointer you end up with, you'll be glad you did. Since you are new to woodworking I'll tell you that jointers need to be set up right or they'll do more harm than good. Find and thoroughly read the owner's manual for any machine you get or are considering. Understanding and internalizing what the manual says will take you a long way in the right direction for achieving peak performance and results. The rest comes from experience, so look forward to spending some time using, observing and understanding what's going on when you run wood over a jointer. Proficiency on that machine will take you a long way towards becoming a much better woodworker. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I am buying a 20 yr Delta DJ15 this weekend. Original owner, hobby use, in great shape. My first 6" jointer was a ridgid but ex wife sold it. I would prefer a 8" but not in the budget.
@@tallyman15 my first 'real' joiner was a DJ15 and was a primary motivator to develop the 'supersize' method shown in this video. The main thing I got with the upgrade to an 8" model was efficiency because many pieces end up being between 6" and 8" but few over 9~10". So you'll be covered for most of what you encounter albeit a little less efficient over 6". BTW the parallelogram feature of the DJ is so much of a time saver over a hand-crank design that you'll not likely feel the inefficiency. Best, Matt PS Don't forget SandFlex blocks and paste wax to restore the cast iron on your 'new' jointer! ruclips.net/video/YIE50o5pS6U/видео.html
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