These drawers will change your life
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- This video will cover a simple method for constructing drawers. This is what is know as the quarter, quarter, quarter drawer method. While the name can be a little misleading in most applications, it is an excellent way to make drawers, especially if you have a lot to make. The best part, they require no fasteners at all to make.
#drawers #woodworking #howto
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Being a Mechanic by Trade , an Wood Butcher for a hobby . A set of drill bits work in a pinch for most of your common small measurements of width's & depth's
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
That explanation of 1/2 of actual material thickness nailed it home. And for safety the support tip much appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I liked this method so well that i bought a cheap used 10" portable table saw, set it up for this cut (with 2 71/4" blades with paper shims) and now dedicated it for cutting drawers only. Works absolutely great and saves lots of setup time, and goes out of the way on a shelf till needed again. I named it my "rabbet lock joint saw" lol
My father was a cabinet maker in the 50’s-80’s and this is how he built drawers. I have pieces that he built in the 50’s and they are still perfect today. Your videos are always so informative and your teaching style is wonderful. Please continue forever !
Glad you found it helpful
I totally agree. Very well explained. And no stupid heavy metal, macho introduction. Just good information from a guy who is obviously well-organized in his shop and his brain.
@@MarkSWilliams27 They changed my life
Thank you for supporting safety
You do a great job with narration in your videos; very clear explanation of what you are doing, your camera angles, and camera distance are excellent. I think you're one of the best at it on RUclips. I have learned a lot from you on how's and why's, fixturing, which tools you use for which applications, and methods. I have become a better woodworker as a result and have replicated several of your builds. Thank you, and keep them coming!
Thank you very much!
Love it. This will be reference material for my projects.
Another excellent production!
🙏🏽
I found this video super helpful and crystal clear. Your description of the steps addressed all my questions. I am mid way through some storage cabinets, so I am looking forward to using this method. I just subscribed, and look forward to learning more. Thanks!
Well illustrated and narrated. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the demo. I know how I'm going to be making the drawers for my shop ... once I get my house built :-)
Glad you found it helpful
Hell yeah. Right on. Thank you for this. Extremely helpful.
I just built all the cabinets, drawers and doors for my kitchen last fall. This is the method I used for my drawer construction. Works great.
Great video. That's how I've always made drawers. Love your thorough description.
This is the best video about this method. Gives me the confidence to do it! Thanks!
Great video and side mount drawer glides are my preferred choice. You are a natural for these woodworking videos. I’m so glad I stumbled across your channel. Thanks so much for such clear and concise instructions.
This was perfect. Thank you.
Excellent Presentation. You made a very good distintion between what you preferred and other options. Thanks!
This is the BEST video I have seen on the 1/4-1/4-1/4 drawer method. You covered every consideration and eventuality involved in making these!
Really excellent!
Glad you found it helpful
As usual, Jason, good visuals, clear instruction. 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you found it helpful
Excellent video and explanation, Jason. Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful
A billion thank yous. My Pops is an excellent DIY woodworker but he lives 2 hours away so here I am in youtube lol. The information and explanation you provided is awesome. thanks again
another great instructional video for us new pandemic woodworkers! i'll give this a shot on my next set of drawers (built my first cabinet with drawers last week lol)
Nice!!
Your videos on cabinets and drawers are the best I’ve seen. Very easily understandable and direct.
Glad you like them!
Great video! Thanks for veeaking down the terms and diagramming them! Well done and really helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank is for the clear explanation Jason!! 👍👍
You’re welcome
i liked the way you explained it
Really clear explanation. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Well explained method, and in detail. Great work. Cheers
Glad you found it helpful
Great demo and easy way to make drawers......thanks!
Glad you found it helpful
Excellent, THANK YOU !
You’re welcome
Good method. I’ve used it many time and works well. I will say the dado doesn’t really matter and you can increase it if you are using specific runners that require more overhang on the bottom. I think around 16mm for Blum.
Great video . Easy to understand and to the point . Thanks . I just subscribed .
You are awesome Brent.
Thank you
Fantastic demo and explanation thanks so much. I have a project coming up I'm definitely going to use this on.
It’s a great method
Love the Smokey behind u. Semper fi sir
Great video for this type setup. After building Many drawers (dovetail, box, Leigh dovetail jig, porter cable jig, this method, drawer lock bits, etc) I have settled on pocket holes - can not see from the back nor the front if installing a drawer front. Much faster, very strong - just works. (Furniture grade would still use my Leigh dove tail jig)
thanks for the video.
Great job explaining this method Jason. I used to use this method for all my drawers, but have switched to dowels since I got my dowelmax. Both are excellent ways.
I’d like to try that
I build all my drawer with pocket screw. I thought joinery was too difficult for a begginer like me. I'll try this technique next time. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work! I like your videos.
excellent work
Many thanks
Stumpy just did a similar video and I think yours compliments his nicely. Thanks Jason!
I’ll have to check it out
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I wish I viewed your video first. You are spot on with the instructions in the beginning regarding the 1/2 versus the 1/4 method. There are too many videos on this method that don't bother telling the viewer you need 1/2" plywood in order for the 1/4,1/4,1/4 method to work properly. Thanks for the clarity. Well done.
Thanks! Well done!
Thank you
Awesome job explaining this method I’ve seen others using a quarter quarter quarter system which led to some confusion on my part your explanation call in at the half method really help solve some problems once again thank you for another great video
You’re welcome!
Very good demonstration, thank you! I use that method a lot for my drawers, or pocket screws in 3/4 material when I need just a couple of boxes.
Glad you found it helpful
@@bentswoodworking You have the nack to present things simply in a very immediate way. Very precious!
Great video Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video, especially for us novices.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video
Thank you
Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome
Vet well presentation. Great job.
Thanks 🙏
I don’t usually post comments but great video. This is the exact way a build drawers thanks for the vindication
You’re welcome!
Thank you for not being stuck on 1/2" material. Some guys make it sound like you MUST use 1/2" stock and exactly 1/4" dados without considering that the measurements can be adjusted for typical "1/2" inch plywood. I've used this method for all my drawers since finding out about it.
It’s a common misconception that I thought needed to be addressed. 👍
Me too. I watched the Gary Katz video several years ago and have since made many dozens of drawers this way, but it'll work for any thickness of plywood. Ya just have to adjust your dado stack for your thickness of plywood.
I think you and Steve Ramsey are two of the best woodworker teachers here on RUclips. Most everything I’ve learned has been from you guys. I love the way you teach. So precise and the writing on the demo pieces is so easy to understand. Thank you for everything you do. It’s because of you two that I fell in love with woodworking.
Thank you so much for that!
Look up Mike Farrington and Ishitani, if you want real woodworking.
I’ve not heard of this method and it looks simple, accurate and efficient. I’ll be trying it on my next set of drawers for sure. Thank you for continuing to produce excellent content that really helps beginners like me. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Glad you found it helpful!!
With a wide router table extension built in place of the right wing you can do this in less time and more ergonomically.
Great video, Jason! I've used this method for 95% of my drawer construction most of my career!
One thing that can be done to mitigate the vertical cut is this:
When it comes time to cut the grooves for the bottom panel, add a 6mm (1/4") sacrificial fence to the table saw. This allows you to place the front/back flat on the table and make the cut in the same fashion as the sides are dadoed! You want an exact fit, so the end of the workpiece ends up flush with the edge of the saw blade, but it works beautifully, and you still don't have to move the fence or the blade. This can be a much safer technique to cut those pesky Rabbets...lol
That's a simple and elegant solution. Won't slow down the productivity much. Thanks for that.
My thoughts exactly. Nice one 👍😎🇦🇺
@@bobbray9666 I would love to try your method but I don't understand your description. The vertical cuts are nerve racking and I would like to do it horizontally . . . if only I understood.
@@number6396 You can also use your 6mm/1/4" setup block to space the piece from the fence prior to running it over the blade. Just pull your setup block out before running the piece over the blade and you'll be perfectly setup.
@@number6396 Your table saw has a fence. You will clamp onto your fence a 1/4” thick piece of plywood (or MFD or whatever you choose). This 1/4” piece is called “sacrificial” because often in other applications - say when you need to cut a narrow sliver of wood - the blade can run into this sacrificial piece of plywood without damaging your real saw fence.
In the case we’re discussing here, the “sacrificial” fence is being used as a spacer only: It is decreasing the space between your real fence and your blade by 1/4”.
Understand?
👍👍 Well done & explained in detail! Depending on what the draw is going to be used for, the front can also be covered with a veneer in order to hide outer seams. Or, you could just do different joinery on the front piece to begin with.
…drawer…..
When running the vertical pieces, try using a speed square to cradle the workpiece. One edge rides on the top of the fence and the “T” shaped edge of the square holds the wood perfectly.
Better is to use a few scraps of baltic birch and make a sled/jig. Zero setup, perfect cuts with no misalignment possible, no extra things to do, and it’s very, very quick.
This video was super helpful! Cabinet construction is something that I have yet to mess with and honestly it intimidates me. This video made me feel much more confident that I can build a sturdy drawer without worrying about brad nails, screws or crazy joints. Thanks Jason!!! 5 out of 5 stars!!! 5 more stars and you get an Armor Branch sticker mailed to your house! LMAO!!!!!
Never in a million years will I display an amror branch sticker
I may just keep sending them. 😉
Thank you. God bless
You’re welcome
It's a good method for most drawers and one I have used for utility drawers. But if you want to use an undermount slide like a Blum Tandem, the 1/4" distance from the underside of the bottom isn't enough. I always have that set at 12mm (1/2"). The dimension from any cross rail or cabinet bottom to the underside of the drawer is has to be 28mm to have enough space for the mechanism.
thank you
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Very well explained & demonstrated. For those of us that cannot support a dado blade, we would make the first cut on each piece, move the fence a few mm & repeat until you reach the desired width. It's more time consuming, but it works. I tend to use the router table. Couple of test pieces & I'm ready.
Very good points Gary!
Never done drawers using this “quarter” method, another good option for future considerations.
👍🏽🇺🇸
Glad you found it helpful!!
Good demonstration on making drawers. I've never seen a shop with a whole wall of Festools before. Impressive. Especially since I can't even afford one Festool.
Nothing add; this has been my go to method for years.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 thanks!
Very interesting 👌 👍 🤔
At 8:05 you start the explanation about safety that includes “there’s no other way to do it.” While I agree with your ultimate conclusion about the balance of safety for this specific situation, I think it’s important to be aware of what the other options are that might be needed in similar situations. The next level of safety would be to use a slide box, safer yet when combined with some type of hold-down clamp.
Again, I think you’re right that what you’re doing is reasonably safe. I just think we shouldn’t tell people it’s the only way to do it when there are other methods that can make this type of operation safer when needed.
Thank you for your input 👍👍
You mean a sled? Or is slide box something specific? One thing to consider is productivity. When you're making a ton of drawers, it matters. And one has to weigh little to no risk vs productivity. I think "Al Amantea" comment right under your comment does the same thing w/o slowing you down.
@@hansangb Aka a sled, yes. I looked at that other comment and it also looks like a good option.
I agree that you’re always balancing productivity with safety when woodworking and there’s no one perfect balance that fits every project and every person in every shop.
Great description of the process. Tx! For me, since I don't have a custom plate for the table saw, I'll just make all my rabbit cuts last and on their sides after resetting the saw setup with a sacrificial fence. Yah, it kind of kills the idea of one setup, but I have no other choice and want to be safe (like you pointed out at 12:10).
That’s also a great option.
All you would need is a spacer attached to the fence, positioned before the blade, that is half the thickness of your work pieces. In Jason's case, a 6mm spacer. Then you can lay your work piece flat on the table, using your miter gauge. Start the work piece against the spacer, hold it firmly in place against the miter gauge and run it past the blade.
You don't have to mess with the saw set up. The only variable is the thickness of your spacer.
Very nice and detailed video as usual. Especially showing the intricacies of the joints and the zero clearance dado plate are fantastic. It might be a little more helpful if you could elaborate a bit more on the drawer sizing part of the video. Thanks.
I plan to do a video just for that 👍
That was a great demonstration with the panels marked up like that. I’m very new to this level. First time cabinet and drawers. I just built a mobile cabinet for my new portable/jobsite 8 1/4 table saw. I just finished cutting the panels for the drawers using this method. I just bought a Freud 6” stacked dado set that gave extremely accurate and clean bottom cuts. Unfortunately It didn’t hit me that the set didn’t start out smaller than 1/4” width. I had to make the change when it came to cutting the rabbets. No big deal, I still cut them using the vertical method because I wanted the experience. I am going to make some sort of vertical guide jig that I can eventually use for lap joints or tenons. I think I would also consider using 1/2” poplar for the next set of drawers. It could be me rushing the cuts but some of the birch plywood ended up with nasty looking voids or gaps that help the looks or fit of some of the joints. Again thanks for being straightforward and concise.
I appreciate straightforward and concise. No goofy time wasting commentary or clips from dumb movies!
Glad you found it helpful
Great information, I cheated though, I bought a pre-cut drawer side from Rockler years ago and used that for my set up block. Works perfectly. Almost all of my drawers build's have been side mounts. Might have to try undermount's some day. The only thing different from your method is I sometimes add dowels to the front sides for contrasting color, and it doesn't hurt for strengthening the joint making it a bit more slam proof.
If anyone is concerned about holding the pieces vertically to cut the rabbit, you can use a little two-sided tape and adhere your spacer block (the one you used for set up) to the table saw top, back from the blade of course, and run your pieces through on the flat. But yeah, great, simple, solid drawer construction.
I dont understand. Please explain more.
Rob has an excellent suggestion. Cut the rabbets similar to how the side datos were cut. On the other side of the wood of course. To make a rabbet instead of a dato the wood must be 6mm from the fence at all times. The spacer block can do this provided you keep it behind the blade.
@@ryanskeete I tried to explain more. See my comment.
Set the distance between the blade and fence first and run a sacrificial piece through with the blade set roughly .75 inch high (as long as its more than .5 inch) and set it aside. (The sacrificial piece should be longer (and >10in) than wide so safer/easier to run vertically against the fence) Next proceed to set the blade height and make cuts. When you do the rabbets use the sacrificial piece as a stop block and you can run the rabbets horizontally using the miter gauge. Hope that made sense.
That is a excellent suggestion, thank you.
I was going to suggest that since he used a setup block to set the initial distance, he could stick that against the fence near the front and use it as a stop block. You need to make sure you don't drag it forward as you cut and ensure that you're firmly holding the piece against your miter gauge,but should serve as a decent alternative method.
I’ve been looking for a video like this so thanks for making it. As a beginner I wasn’t sure if you were using a dado stack and what the width was. Also visual aids would have helped with the materials size section.
You’re welcome
@@bentswoodworking Excellent video - however, like @alrives said - What is the width of your dado stack. I assume it is 6 mm (or something very close to that. What stack width did you use/
Thanks again - for an answer and the Excellent video.
@@macoak3869 With metric plywoods I've found that I have to experiment with different stacks. I've even used non-dado blades and fiddled around with dado spacers to get the width just right.
Ahhhh, the Stumpy method! (:
OK I Just made my first two drawers with this method. Wow set up was tedious but worked out. The rabbits left a paper thin skin but my marking knife easily removed it. My drawer bottoms are large so cutting the rabbit all around was difficult to keep it cutting properly, i.e. I wiggled a bit but when assembled can't see it. And best of all, the drawers bit perfectly in the cabinet! Thanks for a great video. Really looking forward to your video on the assembly table base..
Glad you found it helpful!
I have an INCRA LS positioner fence. I cut a piece of scrap 3/4” plywood the width of my fence and attached another piece of 3/4” plywood at right angle flush to the front of the fence using dominoes. This forms a support for the vertical cuts without the need for a sacrificial fence. It is held in place with T bolts, wing nuts, and washers.
If I cut the bottom dado last, is there a problem with moving the fence enough to accommodate Blum bottom drawer slides?
I've always loved this method. And I agree, with no off cut to get trapped between the blade and the fence, this is a perfectly safe practice.
If someone is really concerned about it, it's a very simple fix. Set the fence at the half inch mark and use the quarter inch spacer block against the fence for your setup. A little more involved, but so is taking the time to write a comment about how dangerous this is.
I use a gripper to push the sides through... I find I get more consistent dados and rabbets because the board cannot ride up the dado blade - this is especially true on longer sides. Gary Katz - ThISisCarpentry channel also posted this video in 2019... 11M views...
Next step is to show how you put on the drawer slides... I have a great system that I use but I'm curious to see how set up your drawer jig to install all the slides.
Fantastic video on drawer making. Will you do another one for the undermounted Blum slides please.
I actually do have a video for that. Here is the link ruclips.net/video/K82l1ec7rR0/видео.html
Amazing that in such a short period of time you’ve gone from a basic woodworker to a $50,000 Festool shop.
I said I might watch it. I watched it. I liked it. #GETBENT
Nice ❤
One question, why not glue in the bottom panel? You mentioned it was your preference not to, but seems to me (a very raw beginner) that gluing in the bottom panel would add considerable strength?
Mr Gary Katz taught me this. Also there should be very little fasteners in wood working IMO, almost zero.
If you have a right-tilt saw (us guys running classic equipment ), the concern you start to talk about at ~12:07 is not as much of a concern as our dado slots grow from the opposite side so we do not get the opening to drop the workpiece in next to the fence. The times I have used this joint in drawers I used a combination blade and made 2 passes w/ a ZCI to get my dado width so it wasn't a concern regardless.
Aha! The secret sauce is the 6mm (or 9mm for 18mm "3/4 in.") spacer block! I've tried the "1/4" method (for "1/2in." plywood) several times and the corners have never come out right . . . because I would set 1/4" up and 1/4" out then try to adjust to make everything fit, despite knowing that the plywood was 12 mm, not 12.7mm. That just never worked. Now I have the secret sauce! And the 1/4 in. (6.35mm) dado stack provides a little slop for the glue. Wonderous, thanks!
Glad you found it helpful
My new dewalt table saw does now allow for dado blades or this would be a great method for drawer builds.
Nice hat press!
Thank you for this! I’m about to embark on an adventure of remodeling our kitchen by making my own cabinets. My question is about the dado blade you linked, the Forrest carbide blade… is there a more affordable option you could recommend for a standard ryobi table saw? I appreciate it
Freud is a good affordable option
Thank you for sharing. I’m about ready to buy my first dado stack for my table saw, I have the sawstop pcs. I remember the guys setting it up telling me to go with Freud and another brand I don’t remember so I don’t have to keep adjusting the distance for the break. What dado stack are you using?
I use the dado king from Forrest
Hi thx for your videos. I've seen this method before and wondered why not reverse the pieces and their cuts so that the front view doesn't show the end grain? Your was implies a need for a seperate front face place - doesn't it?
Excellent video on ¼, ¼, ¼. Can you show us how to make a spline jig to make cuts on a finished drawer?
I’ll add that to the list
Thanks for the informative video! My question is at 5:45 you mention subtracting 1/2 from the length of your 20" sides to reduce to 19 1/2". Is this to account for the face of the drawer or another reason?
At 5:10 you said if you want a 20" drawer the depth will be 20".
Thanks again!
That was when I was addressing the panel size. It accounts for the groove depth
Hi Jason. Thank you for your excellent video, especially for a newbie. Are you using a dadoo blade and can one buy a full throat blade cover?
Great video. I like that you always explain things very well for beginner woodworkers like me. My only question is, what if you use 1/2 plywood for bottoms? Do I cut rabbits and grooves in the bottom panel to fit into dados of sides?
I use 1/2 ply for the bottoms using this method. Yes, you just cut a 1/4" by 1/4" rabbet all around one side of your 1/2" bottom stock (adjusted for the slightly less than 1/2" thickness if necessary) leaving a 1/4" thick by 1/4" long tongue to fit in the dado on the drawer sides. Just remember to cut your drawer bottoms 1/2" (or slightly under 1/2" for some wiggle room) oversize since they're inserted 1/4" into each edge of the drawer. Using this method with a 1/2" bottom makes for insanely sturdy drawers!
@@k87upkid Thank you so much for clarifying that.
That is correct. You can use the same setup.
I don't think you ever came back and addressed what to do if you use BLUM under mounts and that's what I want to use.