I think this may be the best safety video I've seen. You modeled the process of making a mistake, and then catching it to prevent problems because you were thinking about what you were doing, and not too proud to stop. That is something to learn from and copy.
Thanks Alan! I appreciate that very much. I always want to be transparent on safety and let’s be honest no one is perfect. So, why not share so we all can learn from the mistakes
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop / I was wondering how you were going to pull that off without a major accident. I still think sliding them vertically is a Bad Idea. You can make a jig for that, or just do it flat with a 1/4" spacer block as described earlier.
My hats off to you for not editing out the safety hazard you caught. You made a Very good point. If it doesn’t look or feel right, change something. Great video. 👍
I'm an old retired finish Carpenter. I've made probably hundreds of drawers with this method. I however have used different dado widths and lengths and tongues, to accommodate different drawer side thicknesses. This is one of the most efficient ways to build many drawers at a time. I don't think I would pin those joints but everybody does what he wants. It's good to see the trade carrying on. Keep up the good work.
I really appreciate you showing a mistake on the tape and not just cutting it out. It's always important to stay alert and remember why we take percussions.
Definitely deserves a like. I know others have mentioned it and I apologise for repeating it, but I’m glad you stopped and mentioned when you felt unsafe and rectified it. Great video.
Approximately 3 years ago, using 3/4” material, I built these drawers following this video for my new workbench. They are still perfect and great. I am here again for a refresher as I am building my wife some drawers using 1/2” material. You ‘may’ want to add how to measure for these drawers (sliders, different material thickness) for folks like me...having another senior moment. THANKS AGAIN!
Instead of standing the front and back vertical just run it the same as the sides but use a 1/4 inch spacer/stop block on the fence. This will put the dado on the ends in the proper position without the hard to do vertical pieces. Its still a one setup process just the additional stop block but much easier and safer. Can also cut 1/2 inch off the bottom of the back piece to have a slide in bottom. Then a few screws on the bottom into the back to hold it. Ive also used 1/2 inch ply for the bottoms. Just run them on all 4 sides using the 1/4 inch stops block. This makes the edge 1/4 thick and the bottom will be flush. This makes a super strong drawer. Good video showing the 3 quarter drawer. I think its the best looking strongest way. I personally like it better than finger joints. Dovetails might be nicer and stronger but not nearly as foolproof.
@@bnssoftware3292 you can put the bottom as deep as you like. I typically use a 1/4 inch lip on the bottom. And then I cut the back wall 1/2 shorter. When assembled you can slide the drawer bottom in from the back. Secure it to the back wall with 2 screws. The bottom can then be removed and replaced if it ever gets damaged. I do it mostly because its just easier to put the 4 sides together without the bottom in it. But the cut for the bottom can be placed at any depth you want. Or just dont put cuts in for bottoms and make it same size as your drawer and glue and nail it on the bottom of the sides. Many ways to make drawers. The 1/4 method is simple and makes a strong drawer that is easy and looks good and not much set up to build a bunch at one time. Once all the sides are cut you can do one setup with a stack and cut all the drawers with that setup regardless of their size. All the cuts reference from the same place on the edge so length and height of the sides makes no difference.
When standing the drawer fronts and backs against the fence, I use a block of UHMW that I then clamp to the back side of the workpiece as a runner for the top of the fence. It glides super smoothly along the fence and helps to keep the corners from biting into gaps in the blade insert and table. Hell of a nice job explaining the joint by the way. I like that you showed yourself stopping and correcting once your spidey sense kicked in. Great vid, thank you!
That's a much better idea than what he showed (cringe), though I think if I have a choice I'd just use a router table with a 1/2" slot cutting bit and cross cut sled/miter gauge to cut those. Of course not everyone has that so your method would work best in a pinch.
Just found your channel. This is a great method for drawers but most of all I love that you left the unsafe wobble as you cut the rabbets and then stopped, changing the throat plate and left it in the video as opposed to just editing it out. Great way to help teach by showing. Thank you.
On a quest to improve my garage workshops storage , built quite a few drawers over the years from traditional hand cut joinery/pocket holes/utilitarian brads and screws. Knocked out a few after seeing this video and very grateful and appreciative to be able to say it’s my new personal favorite for batching out workshop drawers. Thanks!
I’ve seen this quarter method described in several previous videos but this was the most straightforward, simple and easiest to understand of all of them. Thank-you, well done!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop it's really called the half half half method, not based on inches, but the fact you are taking half the thickness of whatever stock you use.
I laughed with relief when you said "folks don't do glue ups on your table saw" because my shoulders had been climbing up to my ears with anxiety watching that glue drip towards the surface of your table. Thanks for a great video, I'm going to use this technique on my next set of drawers.
I've always known this method as the half-half-half joint because no matter what width the drawer material is, you stack the dado to half the thickness, half the height and half the distance from the fence. Easy peezy nice and easy.
You are absolutely right! Even "1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood is .474" not 1/2". If you keep everything at 1/4" you're going to end up with gaposis somewhere.
Thank you for making this video. I use this method for making drawers for residential kitchens when customers don't want to spend money on dovetail drawers. You've refined it more, I'll do it this way from now on.
Nice demo and it will come in very handy for me. I'd use a dedicated throat plate setup just for this purpose, to eliminate the issue you stated at 6:35. Easy to make and keep on hand just for this 1/4-1/4-1/4 method. The only change I would make is to reduce the bottom measurement by 1/16" to allow for just a little wiggle room as you assemble.
Not just wiggle room, but expansion of the drawer bottom. If indoor humidity changes, or these drawers get made indoors, but then stored in a garage or someplace more humid, they will expand and likely blow part of the side joints out.
@@csimet I read "wiggle room" in context with the rest of your sentence, "as you assemble." I was simply trying to add a more long-term issue that might arise to your valid critique. I'm not trying to argue the definition or what people infer as to the meaning of "wiggle room."
Thanks for the video, I (the novice) have a ton of drawers to make for my Caravan fit out and 3 for my kitchen at home. You have saved me a heck of a lot of time and stress. Double thumbs up.
Excellent video, I have made these same drawers for a while. I do something just a bit different, rather than stand the front an back pieces on end, I use a spacer and miter guide. Showing the throat plate change and expaining is great!
Yeah, I recently watched a video by Wood Magazine here on RUclips and they too called it a Lock Rabbet. Their method is slightly different but I like this method better. Love the video!
@@YancySmith this is not a full lock joint. Cutting those is a bit more complicated. But you have less end grain exposed. Which some appreciate. Then there is miter lock joints. Which is no end grain. Very fancy.
Very nice video. Remember, when a blade cuts in the direction of the grain of the wood, it is called a "groove", not dado. Also, when the is cut is along the any edge of the wood without one shoulder, it is called a "rabbet".
@@jacknissen6040 It is the same terminology used but I would not use a router to cut plywood because you will get a very rough cut in plywood do to the various layers a directions of the sandwiched wood found in plywood.
Excellent! When I saw a problem ‘about’ to occur or a different way to do it…you quickly changed the process or identified alternative way(s) to do it. Great design…thanks!
Brilliant. For some of us DYI wannabes, drawer making has always been a high enough hurdle to a void it. I’m absolutely going to hop that hurdle. Thanks.
I just stumbled upon your site Jess and subscribed because you assume your audience is here to learn and therefore you teach. Lots of tubers make so many assumptions and rush through the build process and bang bang in five minutes they are showing a Windsor rocking chair all built and finished. If I knew how to build it I would not be watching you tube videos to begin with Thanks for this very. Informative step by step video and I look forward now to more to come. happy New Year to you and your lived ones Harleymike/chicago
Thank you for the kind comment and support, Mike! I try to gear my videos to be like those that help me learn as well. I enjoy some entertaining ones every now and then but I as well use RUclips to learn so I know what you mean.
The 1/4, 1/4 system of cabinet drawer joinery in drawer construction has been around a long time I was using it way back in the 60's when I was an apprentice in the L.A. county Cabinet Makers Union 721 and I still use this method to this day. Thanks for Showing its use in your video.
Great straight forward and honestly illustrated the process. I am getting ready to build my first set (2) of drawers for a mobile job site table saw cabinet with a folding outfeed shelf. I’m waiting on my first Freud dado stack to come in a couple of days. I’m very new to this but I thought that a dado stack with 20 teeth would cut a a cleaner dado bottom than a set with 10 teeth I originally considered. Anyone has any thoughts on that would be appreciated. I’m also going to try to make a 1/4” zero clearance dado insert for this project than make another one when another width is needed. Thanks again for the video that doesn’t have a million screws and brads.
I am an engineer and so I appreciate instructions that are to the point with no unwanted embellishments, which some times confuse the issue. In this department you achieved top marks. As you know in certain parts of the world dado is not allowed. maybe when you have the time you will do a video with an alternative process (router?). Thanks for an excellent video. Keep up the good work.
How short is the euro arbor? Could you get 2 blades and some shims if required for 6mm? Or maybe just do 2 passes round robin on all your pcs. if you don't have a router table.
Watched other videos recently using this method. One gentleman called it Quarter-Quarter-Quarter referring to the 1/4” cuts in 1/2” stock. The other gentleman more generally called it the Half-Half-Half meaning cut dados one-half the thickness of the stock you’re using. Same concept, but expands the understanding that it applies to all stock.
Just piling on to everyone's sentiment and thoughts...especially making it feel less complicated and the better feeling of "I can handle this" - a fan after one video and now a subscriber...with respect sir!
Nice as it is it's taking 4 clamps to do my drawers right now..I'm fairly new so I'm totally open to new ways to do things..that's a really clean nice look...and fun doin datos, least for me lol..thanks for the upload, I'm doin a bunch of drawers for my shop and I'll do this on the next set...
This is the first time I have seen this construction method and it looks simple and effective, but I don't have a table saw that can take a dado stack (they are just not common here in New Zealand). I am going to try this on a router table instead. Thanks for a great lesson and demonstration.
Ray, the router table will do a perfect job. I have a DeWalt construction site table saw that cannot accept dado stacks, so I used my router table. I think you will be happy with your results, and good luck! Jim
Just start with a 1/8” spacer, make the cuts, remove the spacer and run it through again. That should give you the 1/4” grove needed. Make all the cuts with the spacer and the all again without so they are all cut the same (no minor variations). My thoughts at least.
Good explanation, I built a kitchen full of drawers that way a few years ago. It was a bit hard getting the measurements exact, but once dialed in, I was able to mass produce all the drawers at once.
That was a killer video. I'm in need of a bunch of drawers for storage and this will work out perfect. I too was glad to see you change out that throat plate. As someone who suffered an injury on a table saw I was shivering a little as well. Definitely subscribing
LOL he keeps talking about how unsafe it actually is. funniest part is it is unsafe because he is using a open spinning blade to do what a Router is made for.
Very helpful! There are so many ways to make drawers and each have their own pluses and minuses. But this one is really straightforward and is easily modified to make different-sized dados and have different bottom depths (like for undermount slides).
Good job man. Thanks for stopping to correct the safety issue. I pretty much learn everything from watching RUclipsr woodworkers, so I'm dependant on solid, and safe, technique.
I set up an old contractor saw (Kobalt) for just this type of drawer. Once I got it dialed in, I never moved it and it works every single time. Great video.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thanks. My wife thought I was crazy for keeping it around. Not now. I built her an entire kitchen with cabinets so no complaints now.
Thanks for the video! I tried it with a router instead as I’m in Sweden and can’t get dados. 6mm router bit and 12 mm ply sides with 6 mm ply bottom does it! I’m just making 24 drawers with your vid as an example. Thanks again! // Lars
I just built a bunch of drawers for the kids’ playroom toy storage using pocket holes. While those drawers are really sturdy, this method is even easier and saves money on screws. I’ll be trying this method out for my next project! Thanks for the great video!
Thought I'd let you know that I tried this method on the router table and it worked out reasonably well. It took a good bit longer to set up than I expected but that was definitely because I'm a sloppy dimwit. Oh well, all's well that ends with ten fingers. Cheers mate and thanks again.
I love a good interruption for safety. No one is perfect but a lot of these types of videos don't remind us of that. Thumbs up and a subscribe from me! Thank you for the great content.
"Fix'n" to start building all new kitchen cabinets for my house ... great video ...tips and methods. I've seen a half a dozen methods and I've got to admit that I like this one best. Thanks
Wow. What a great way to make drawers. That's going to be my go-to from now on. So simple with minimal changes to the saw. And thanks for stopping and changing the saw for safety reasons. It's too easy to push thru and then pay the price. Even better that you caught yourself and showed it's worth the time to be safe. Keep up the great work
When cutting end pieces standing up use a 6in clamp with scrap 1 x 3 to back side of material piece that rides on top of sacrificial fence which prevents piece from falling down into the blades dado gap
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. After some trial and error, I realized the key to this is to use 1/2" plywood in order to get the 1/4" to work. If you use 3'4" plywood, the same method will work if you change everything to 3/8".
I did this a while back after watching a different video (don't remember which one) and the drawers came out perfect. I'd like to make a suggestion that helped me. When you get the saw set up, run a rabbet cut on some scrap before you start cutting the dados. This will confirm that you have the correct saw set up. In my case, I was off just a hair and when I cut the rabbets, they were off, cutting a little too much towards the center of the board. That left a few thousandth's of material hanging there. I just bumped the fence over a bit until it cleared that off and then I was set. It also gives you a chance to measure the cut so you can adjust the height of the blade if needed. Also, as you mentioned, banging in a couple of pins to lock everything together helps if you don't have a pile of clamps hanging around just waiting to be used. In my build, I had 16 drawers to put together. I don't think I have 32 clamps altogether, much less big enough for drawers.
That’s excellent insight and thank you for the comment. Running some test pieces is always an excellent idea and something I should have mentions. Thank you!
So how would I modify this to use a 3/4-in "bottom" ? I'm thinking I can build one hell of a strong subwoofer enclosure with all of those dados and rabbets. The slightly recessed bottom of the drawer will make a great spot to hide your carpet seams.
Do it the same way except do not cut the dado for the bottom on the boards. Once you have the 1/4” ones done then add chippers foe the 3/4” and cut all the bottom dados with the fence 1/4” from the blade
I do this all the time using 12mm ply and a 6mm router cutter in a table. I do use pins to aid gluing because ply tends to warp until it's pulled together.
Great video! I'm pretty new to woodworking and have just a few projects under my belt. I forced myself to learn dovetails because I thought it was a good skill but had already decided my next project would use lock rabbit joints so this video was perfect timing. Made 3 drawers today and they came out great 1st time. Thanks.
Nice video. Never thought it was safe to cut a piece on end like that, without a jig. Glad you changed the insert at least. Thanks, and please stay safe.
You want confusing try to figure out a dovetail jig. Wholly. You've got to be like a rocket scientist to get it to work. I did it one day just to do it and still just managed to get it to halfway kind of work. What I did worked but wasn't fully correct as per how you're supposed to do it. To get that would have been another adjustment. Well two really. There's the upper and lower stop. Maybe next time?
Thanks so much for making such a clear, easy to understand video. I'm about to build out my router table and it'll be my first time making drawers. This method seems like it makes pretty quick, easy work of it.
When I worked as a table saw operator, I always made throat plates for every size dado blade set. My cuts were always perfect with no shedding or marring. Was going to say whenever I make a drawer with 1/4" stock I never used a measuring tape, but actually used a piece of the stock I am using to make a perfect fit for the drawer. As you know bought wood stock is never always the same so it's best to use the actual stock you are using as a guide for the height of the blade and the distance of the blade to the fence. I say this a the head tablesaw operator in many shops in the Midwest for over 20 years. Nice job btw...
I have been making drawers for almost 40 years. Never have seen your method. I think it's very clever using the rabbit and dado method. Gonna have to try that. I also use a stack dado on my table saw, but there is no way I'd use it for cutting rabbits in the end. My brother lost part of his finger to a dado set years ago. I'm so glad you stopped and changed your blade cover. That was a near miss! I understand your goal was simplicity with a table saw. But I would reccomend using a router for this end cuts. Way safer and just as effective.
I built a quick plywood chest drawers 35 years ago for my infant son using this exact method and its still holding up. That’s 18 years at home, 4 years of college and four additional moves. It’s now in my granddaughter’s possession. I’ve also built drawers for the shop and that are loaded down with power tools and junk 35 years ago and everything is holding up like a champ. 😎
New subscriber here. Thanks for the video. I am thinking of making drawers for the shop as well as the kitchen and this was helpful. The shop will have heavy duty loads and may even do some finger joints for them.
Thanks for this! I just inherited a shopsmith mark5 and I have about 200 scrap pallets that I am going to make a tool chest out of. My sides, back, and top and bottom will have slat boards glued together for thickness, framed with the 2x4 runners. I don't have a planer or jointer yet, so I'll have to square out the 2x4's for the drawers to sit on vs making slides for now. I was trying to look for simple drawers to make and the title dead simple drawers was the top pick. Thanks for all the details!
In some shops the only flat space available for glue-ups IS the table saw. That said, you can protect the surface using WAX PAPER or FREEZER PAPER (plastic side up). Btw, thx for the tute. I’ll be in need of this info by spring.
A table saw may not be the only flat surface but it is often the flattest surface in many shops. A decent table saw should be pretty flat. It can be a Blanchard ground surface.
Excellent video, description is mega clear and I'm definitely ditching pocket holes for this method, thank you. I have a Dewalt job site saw that will not take a dado stack as the spindle isn't long enough, but it can take a 6mm grooving blade, which should be perfect for this. Thank you very much. :)
You made making drawers look so easy. I was wondering, since I am a newbie, why did you not glue the bottom 1/4 plywood? Is it because you don't want squeeze out of glue inside the drawer? Just wondering and awesome video. Thanks for being real. Cheers.
I wasn't thrilled with this video at first, but it interested me enough to not skip it...then the more I watched the more I liked the video, and by the end I was in love with this video and subscribed. Thanks for swapping out the throat plate. I was watching and thought this piece of wood is about to drop and either kick back and hurt him or ruin the piece of wood, but I'm glad you stopped to fix it and added this correction to the video. We're all human and we all make mistakes, but you're honest enough to leave them in as teachable moments. Subscribed, and saved to my file of videos for reworking the cabinets in our kitchen. The only negative about this was the links you included. I work in IT and I ABSOLUTELY HATE tiny URLs like this. They redirect you to a new link and although I do not work in cyber security, that's never something I trust because you either have to take it on faith the person isn't sending you somewhere bad, or take the time to put the tiny URL into a site and have it resolve out the true URL that is hidden. It's nothing personal against you, just a good general rule of thumb to follow to keep your PC safe from malicious code. I have enough faith to use these, but I'll still cringe when I do.
Well, I really appreciate the kind comment and honesty! I don’t mind showing my mistakes and actually encourage it. How else will we all learn? Sorry about the links. Amazon gives the option for shorter links and I thought that they made the section appear to look cleaner
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I totally understand. If you don't work in IT and have some familiarity with IT security, you'd not have a reason to know these things. I still click these links because most woodworkers are not going to have all the IT savvy to be malicious in that way. There are exceptions...our system administrator on our network years ago was one of the best woodworkers I know, and if he wanted, he could have done anything malicious he put his mind to...but thankfully he wasn't that type of person. :0)
I've always tried to not use miter gauge and fence at one time. When using miter gauge a small 3/4 scrap against fence at front edge of saw will give you a safety space with miter gauge. You only have to bind a board once to never forget. Great post not complaining.
I think this may be the best safety video I've seen. You modeled the process of making a mistake, and then catching it to prevent problems because you were thinking about what you were doing, and not too proud to stop.
That is something to learn from and copy.
Thanks Alan! I appreciate that very much. I always want to be transparent on safety and let’s be honest no one is perfect. So, why not share so we all can learn from the mistakes
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop / I was wondering how you were going to pull that off without a major accident. I still think sliding them vertically is a Bad Idea. You can make a jig for that, or just do it flat with a 1/4" spacer block as described earlier.
My hats off to you for not editing out the safety hazard you caught. You made a Very good point. If it doesn’t look or feel right, change something. Great video. 👍
Thanks David!!!
I'm an old retired finish Carpenter. I've made probably hundreds of drawers with this method. I however have used different dado widths and lengths and tongues, to accommodate different drawer side thicknesses. This is one of the most efficient ways to build many drawers at a time. I don't think I would pin those joints but everybody does what he wants. It's good to see the trade carrying on. Keep up the good work.
That’s such a great comment and I truly appreciate you taking the time to send it. It’s one of my favorite as well and thank you!
Your English is very good for being from Finland.
@@nativepangea LOL!
I really appreciate you showing a mistake on the tape and not just cutting it out.
It's always important to stay alert and remember why we take percussions.
… and precautions!
Definitely deserves a like. I know others have mentioned it and I apologise for repeating it, but I’m glad you stopped and mentioned when you felt unsafe and rectified it. Great video.
Thanks Chris, I really appreciate the kind comment. Safety first brother
Approximately 3 years ago, using 3/4” material, I built these drawers following this video for my new workbench. They are still perfect and great. I am here again for a refresher as I am building my wife some drawers using 1/2” material. You ‘may’ want to add how to measure for these drawers (sliders, different material thickness) for folks like me...having another senior moment. THANKS AGAIN!
Instead of standing the front and back vertical just run it the same as the sides but use a 1/4 inch spacer/stop block on the fence. This will put the dado on the ends in the proper position without the hard to do vertical pieces. Its still a one setup process just the additional stop block but much easier and safer. Can also cut 1/2 inch off the bottom of the back piece to have a slide in bottom. Then a few screws on the bottom into the back to hold it. Ive also used 1/2 inch ply for the bottoms. Just run them on all 4 sides using the 1/4 inch stops block. This makes the edge 1/4 thick and the bottom will be flush. This makes a super strong drawer. Good video showing the 3 quarter drawer. I think its the best looking strongest way. I personally like it better than finger joints. Dovetails might be nicer and stronger but not nearly as foolproof.
Only problem with the flush bottom is you can't use undermount slides.
@@bnssoftware3292 you can put the bottom as deep as you like. I typically use a 1/4 inch lip on the bottom. And then I cut the back wall 1/2 shorter. When assembled you can slide the drawer bottom in from the back. Secure it to the back wall with 2 screws. The bottom can then be removed and replaced if it ever gets damaged. I do it mostly because its just easier to put the 4 sides together without the bottom in it. But the cut for the bottom can be placed at any depth you want. Or just dont put cuts in for bottoms and make it same size as your drawer and glue and nail it on the bottom of the sides. Many ways to make drawers. The 1/4 method is simple and makes a strong drawer that is easy and looks good and not much set up to build a bunch at one time. Once all the sides are cut you can do one setup with a stack and cut all the drawers with that setup regardless of their size. All the cuts reference from the same place on the edge so length and height of the sides makes no difference.
Great idea and a method most people use. But the point of the video was to make a box without using any fasteners. Mission accomplished. 😉
When standing the drawer fronts and backs against the fence, I use a block of UHMW that I then clamp to the back side of the workpiece as a runner for the top of the fence. It glides super smoothly along the fence and helps to keep the corners from biting into gaps in the blade insert and table.
Hell of a nice job explaining the joint by the way. I like that you showed yourself stopping and correcting once your spidey sense kicked in.
Great vid, thank you!
That's a much better idea than what he showed (cringe), though I think if I have a choice I'd just use a router table with a 1/2" slot cutting bit and cross cut sled/miter gauge to cut those. Of course not everyone has that so your method would work best in a pinch.
Just found your channel. This is a great method for drawers but most of all I love that you left the unsafe wobble as you cut the rabbets and then stopped, changing the throat plate and left it in the video as opposed to just editing it out. Great way to help teach by showing. Thank you.
Thanks Ben! I appreciate the support! I learn the most from my failures. I’m sure other will as well lol
Very much needed help.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I couldn't stop watching. It's now the season for blood and gore. (October) Get Halloween started with a Saw vid.
HOLY 💩 Brutha !!! You just took 10.7 years off my life by showing me an easier way to rebuild all my kitchen drawers. You just got a new sub!!!
Hahaha that’s what I like to hear!!!!!
On a quest to improve my garage workshops storage , built quite a few drawers over the years from traditional hand cut joinery/pocket holes/utilitarian brads and screws. Knocked out a few after seeing this video and very grateful and appreciative to be able to say it’s my new personal favorite for batching out workshop drawers. Thanks!
Yesssss!!!!!! Glad it was helpful
Never made a drawer before. Just tried this, so easy. Thank you.
Heck yeah! Thanks Mark!
I’ve seen this quarter method described in several previous videos but this was the most straightforward, simple and easiest to understand of all of them. Thank-you, well done!
Thanks I really appreciate that!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop it's really called the half half half method, not based on inches, but the fact you are taking half the thickness of whatever stock you use.
I agree. I’m a beginner and I found the instructions so easy to understand and apply. Clear presentation and camera work.
Thank you!
You are correct. I should have explained that
I laughed with relief when you said "folks don't do glue ups on your table saw" because my shoulders had been climbing up to my ears with anxiety watching that glue drip towards the surface of your table. Thanks for a great video, I'm going to use this technique on my next set of drawers.
I've always known this method as the half-half-half joint because no matter what width the drawer material is,
you stack the dado to half the thickness, half the height and half the distance from the fence. Easy peezy nice and easy.
You are absolutely right! Even "1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood is .474" not 1/2". If you keep everything at 1/4" you're going to end up with gaposis somewhere.
@@justgoballistic Any real woodworker will know nominal thicknesses are not true and to check the width of the material then divide in half. Geez.
@@justgoballistic I guess it's damn close to 12 mm 'Baltic Birch' ;-)
Thank you for making this video. I use this method for making drawers for residential kitchens when customers don't want to spend money on dovetail drawers. You've refined it more, I'll do it this way from now on.
Thanks Craig!
Nice demo and it will come in very handy for me. I'd use a dedicated throat plate setup just for this purpose, to eliminate the issue you stated at 6:35. Easy to make and keep on hand just for this 1/4-1/4-1/4 method. The only change I would make is to reduce the bottom measurement by 1/16" to allow for just a little wiggle room as you assemble.
Not just wiggle room, but expansion of the drawer bottom. If indoor humidity changes, or these drawers get made indoors, but then stored in a garage or someplace more humid, they will expand and likely blow part of the side joints out.
@@MrNside Exactly. Wiggle room.
@@csimet
I read "wiggle room" in context with the rest of your sentence, "as you assemble." I was simply trying to add a more long-term issue that might arise to your valid critique. I'm not trying to argue the definition or what people infer as to the meaning of "wiggle room."
Well presented ,excellent. all my drawer making procedure will follow this technique going forward, thank you.
Thanks for the video, I (the novice) have a ton of drawers to make for my Caravan fit out and 3 for my kitchen at home. You have saved me a heck of a lot of time and stress. Double thumbs up.
So glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind comment
I think this video has made you my favorite online video instructor!! There are many good ones, but this video is "king" in my opinion. Thanks buddy!
Excellent video, I have made these same drawers for a while. I do something just a bit different, rather than stand the front an back pieces on end, I use a spacer and miter guide. Showing the throat plate change and expaining is great!
That was the very first thing I noticed when you started. Love and learn. Everything else is good.
Nice! Reminds me of how my Dad would have done it. I love that the joints will be strong without having to do dovetail or box joints.
Thanks Jeff, they really are nice and strong.
Thank you Sir! I would never have known had it not been for your generosity, I wish I could like this video 1k times. Thank you for sharing
I learned these as “lock rabbets”, as I’m sure others did. Great method! Perfect for any kind of cabinet with false front drawers. Well done vid.
Thanks! That’s cool I’ve never heard them called that
Yeah, I recently watched a video by Wood Magazine here on RUclips and they too called it a Lock Rabbet. Their method is slightly different but I like this method better. Love the video!
Thanks!
@@YancySmith this is not a full lock joint. Cutting those is a bit more complicated. But you have less end grain exposed. Which some appreciate. Then there is miter lock joints. Which is no end grain. Very fancy.
Outstanding method. I did not like making drawers until I saw your method. What an easy way. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike!!!!
Thank you for changing out that throat plate... I appreciate the pause and choosing safety over speed.
Safety first!
Don't know what dorks gave you thumbs down, haters gotta hate. Great video, I can't wait to try it out!
😂 Thanks brother I appreciate that.
This help remove some of the intimidation I've felt toward making drawers. It really looks doable for a first timer. Thanks.
Awesome! Thanks for supporting the channel!
Thanx. Finally I can move on with my drawer project, without those nails and screws in my mind. Hope to see more of your videos. Thanx again.
Very nice video. Remember, when a blade cuts in the direction of the grain of the wood, it is called a "groove", not dado. Also, when the is cut is along the any edge of the wood without one shoulder, it is called a "rabbet".
What about plywood?
@@jacknissen6040 It is the same terminology used but I would not use a router to cut plywood because you will get a very rough cut in plywood do to the various layers a directions of the sandwiched wood found in plywood.
Excellent! When I saw a problem ‘about’ to occur or a different way to do it…you quickly changed the process or identified alternative way(s) to do it. Great design…thanks!
Thanks!
Stopping during the video to change to a safer method is setting a good example.
Thank you, safer is always better
Brilliant. For some of us DYI wannabes, drawer making has always been a high enough hurdle to a void it. I’m absolutely going to hop that hurdle. Thanks.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful
You can never have too many wooden boxes. Nicely done!
Nice demo and drawer construction. I like the simplicity. And no one is losing sleep about dovetails.
Hahaha thanks!
I just stumbled upon your site Jess and subscribed because you assume your audience is here to learn and therefore you teach. Lots of tubers make so many assumptions and rush through the build process and bang bang in five minutes they are showing a Windsor rocking chair all built and finished. If I knew how to build it I would not be watching you tube videos to begin with
Thanks for this very. Informative step by step video and I look forward now to more to come. happy New Year to you and your lived ones
Harleymike/chicago
Thank you for the kind comment and support, Mike! I try to gear my videos to be like those that help me learn as well. I enjoy some entertaining ones every now and then but I as well use RUclips to learn so I know what you mean.
The 1/4, 1/4 system of cabinet drawer joinery in drawer construction has been around a long time I was using it way back in the 60's when I was an apprentice in the L.A. county Cabinet Makers Union 721 and I still use this method to this day. Thanks for Showing its use in your video.
Awesome! Oldie but goodie!!!
Great straight forward and honestly illustrated the process. I am getting ready to build my first set (2) of drawers for a mobile job site table saw cabinet with a folding outfeed shelf. I’m waiting on my first Freud dado stack to come in a couple of days. I’m very new to this but I thought that a dado stack with 20 teeth would cut a a cleaner dado bottom than a set with 10 teeth I originally considered. Anyone has any thoughts on that would be appreciated. I’m also going to try to make a 1/4” zero clearance dado insert for this project than make another one when another width is needed. Thanks again for the video that doesn’t have a million screws and brads.
Haha thanks for the kind comment and support!!! You’ll love that dado stack!
I am an engineer and so I appreciate instructions that are to the point with no unwanted embellishments, which some times confuse the issue. In this department you achieved top marks. As you know in certain parts of the world dado is not allowed. maybe when you have the time you will do a video with an alternative process (router?). Thanks for an excellent video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks I’ll have to think about how to do a video like that
How short is the euro arbor? Could you get 2 blades and some shims if required for 6mm? Or maybe just do 2 passes round robin on all your pcs. if you don't have a router table.
A 1/4” dado bit on a router table should give you the same results, yes?
Watched other videos recently using this method. One gentleman called it Quarter-Quarter-Quarter referring to the 1/4” cuts in 1/2” stock. The other gentleman more generally called it the Half-Half-Half meaning cut dados one-half the thickness of the stock you’re using. Same concept, but expands the understanding that it applies to all stock.
That "half half half" helped, thanks
I appreciate the change of plate.. made this video so much original and a life saver. Great work.
Thanks friend!
Just piling on to everyone's sentiment and thoughts...especially making it feel less complicated and the better feeling of "I can handle this" - a fan after one video and now a subscriber...with respect sir!
Thank you and I’m glad it was helpful! I appreciate the support as well!
There's definitely more complicated ways to construct drawers.
Nice as it is it's taking 4 clamps to do my drawers right now..I'm fairly new so I'm totally open to new ways to do things..that's a really clean nice look...and fun doin datos, least for me lol..thanks for the upload, I'm doin a bunch of drawers for my shop and I'll do this on the next set...
This is the first time I have seen this construction method and it looks simple and effective, but I don't have a table saw that can take a dado stack (they are just not common here in New Zealand). I am going to try this on a router table instead. Thanks for a great lesson and demonstration.
Ray, the router table will do a perfect job. I have a DeWalt construction site table saw that cannot accept dado stacks, so I used my router table. I think you will be happy with your results, and good luck!
Jim
Just start with a 1/8” spacer, make the cuts, remove the spacer and run it through again. That should give you the 1/4” grove needed. Make all the cuts with the spacer and the all again without so they are all cut the same (no minor variations). My thoughts at least.
2 zips through with a regular blade works too. If you're not doing it full time it just takes more time
Nice video! Thank you for the concise and easy to follow directions. I'll be throwing my dado on the saw in just a few minutes. 👏
Good explanation, I built a kitchen full of drawers that way a few years ago. It was a bit hard getting the measurements exact, but once dialed in, I was able to mass produce all the drawers at once.
Thanks!
That was a killer video. I'm in need of a bunch of drawers for storage and this will work out perfect. I too was glad to see you change out that throat plate. As someone who suffered an injury on a table saw I was shivering a little as well. Definitely subscribing
Thanks friend, I appreciate that!
Super easy and well explained, thank you for taking the time to record!
LOL he keeps talking about how unsafe it actually is. funniest part is it is unsafe because he is using a open spinning blade to do what a Router is made for.
Very helpful! There are so many ways to make drawers and each have their own pluses and minuses. But this one is really straightforward and is easily modified to make different-sized dados and have different bottom depths (like for undermount slides).
Good job man. Thanks for stopping to correct the safety issue. I pretty much learn everything from watching RUclipsr woodworkers, so I'm dependant on solid, and safe, technique.
Thank you!
Excellent video presentation! A very simple and easy to understand method presented in a very easy to follow manner.
Awesome instructional skills!!! You do a VERY GOOD job of explaining EVERY aspect of what you are doing!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you!
I set up an old contractor saw (Kobalt) for just this type of drawer. Once I got it dialed in, I never moved it and it works every single time. Great video.
Man, that’s a great idea!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thanks. My wife thought I was crazy for keeping it around. Not now. I built her an entire kitchen with cabinets so no complaints now.
Perfect! I have to make three drawers, but haven't ever made a drawer, and wasn't sure how I was going to do this. Now I know!
Awesome! Be safe with those cuts and they will turn out great!
I'm always looking for simple, effective ways of doing wood working and you nailed it, wait, no you didn't, you dattoed it!
Thanks for the video! I tried it with a router instead as I’m in Sweden and can’t get dados. 6mm router bit and 12 mm ply sides with 6 mm ply bottom does it!
I’m just making 24 drawers with your vid as an example. Thanks again! // Lars
That’s awesome, Lars! Glad you got it figured out with the router and it all worked well for you! Cheers!
Excellent video. Very clear and well done. Don't care if others taught the same system. This is where I learned it. Thank you.
Hahah thanks dude! 👊👊👊👊
I'm a total amateur compared to other people but I like this this is really going to help me later on thank you for a great video.
You’re welcome!
I just built a bunch of drawers for the kids’ playroom toy storage using pocket holes. While those drawers are really sturdy, this method is even easier and saves money on screws. I’ll be trying this method out for my next project! Thanks for the great video!
I use the pocket hole method when I’m building drawers with 3/4” ply but this way is much easier
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Yeah, the drawers I built were 1/2” ply.
Thanks for this video. I like how you laid it out simply and straightforward for those that are looking to learn like me!
Thanks and I appreciate the support!
Great video. Very clear instructions. You made something many cringe about, look simple.
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
Thought I'd let you know that I tried this method on the router table and it worked out reasonably well. It took a good bit longer to set up than I expected but that was definitely because I'm a sloppy dimwit. Oh well, all's well that ends with ten fingers. Cheers mate and thanks again.
Good to know and glad you still have all ten digits! 😂
FanTASTIC video! Absolutely love this technique and will be using it. You also have yourself a new subscriber.
I love a good interruption for safety. No one is perfect but a lot of these types of videos don't remind us of that. Thumbs up and a subscribe from me! Thank you for the great content.
Thanks so much for the kind comment and support!
"Fix'n" to start building all new kitchen cabinets for my house ... great video ...tips and methods. I've seen a half a dozen methods and I've got to admit that I like this one best. Thanks
Awesome! Good luck on that project! Glad the video was helpful!
Wow. What a great way to make drawers. That's going to be my go-to from now on. So simple with minimal changes to the saw. And thanks for stopping and changing the saw for safety reasons. It's too easy to push thru and then pay the price. Even better that you caught yourself and showed it's worth the time to be safe. Keep up the great work
First time I have visited your site and I'm glad i did to find out how to make drawers that easy and so good.
Thanks!!!!
When cutting end pieces standing up use a 6in clamp with scrap 1 x 3 to back side of material piece that rides on top of sacrificial fence which prevents piece from falling down into the blades dado gap
Smart!
This is a great technique! I used my router table and a quarter inch bit to do the same thing and it works great! Thanks man
The QQQ Method! Awesome, and I like how you paused the cut to change out that too-wide dado plate for a better plate. Instant sub here!!! Happy 2021
Thanks Carl! It’s such a good method and I appreciate the support!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. After some trial and error, I realized the key to this is to use 1/2" plywood in order to get the 1/4" to work. If you use 3'4" plywood, the same method will work if you change everything to 3/8".
I did this a while back after watching a different video (don't remember which one) and the drawers came out perfect. I'd like to make a suggestion that helped me. When you get the saw set up, run a rabbet cut on some scrap before you start cutting the dados. This will confirm that you have the correct saw set up. In my case, I was off just a hair and when I cut the rabbets, they were off, cutting a little too much towards the center of the board. That left a few thousandth's of material hanging there. I just bumped the fence over a bit until it cleared that off and then I was set. It also gives you a chance to measure the cut so you can adjust the height of the blade if needed.
Also, as you mentioned, banging in a couple of pins to lock everything together helps if you don't have a pile of clamps hanging around just waiting to be used. In my build, I had 16 drawers to put together. I don't think I have 32 clamps altogether, much less big enough for drawers.
That’s excellent insight and thank you for the comment. Running some test pieces is always an excellent idea and something I should have mentions. Thank you!
So how would I modify this to use a 3/4-in "bottom" ? I'm thinking I can build one hell of a strong subwoofer enclosure with all of those dados and rabbets. The slightly recessed bottom of the drawer will make a great spot to hide your carpet seams.
Do it the same way except do not cut the dado for the bottom on the boards. Once you have the 1/4” ones done then add chippers foe the 3/4” and cut all the bottom dados with the fence 1/4” from the blade
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop not quite as easy since it will require moving the fence and adding some dado cutters. But that will definitely work.
Yep! Very true but it will definitely work
This can also be accomplished with a router table and a 1/4 inch straight bit. Locking rabbet joints make drawers easy!
Sure can!
I agree as long as you can get the lockmiter bit set correctly 🤣🛫
I was going to say exactly that! In Europe we don't have dado stacks and the router is the alternative.
I do this all the time using 12mm ply and a 6mm router cutter in a table. I do use pins to aid gluing because ply tends to warp until it's pulled together.
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT is it against the law to have dado stacks or just tradition?
Cool vid, thanks! I'll have to try this for making drawers for my shop bench.
Thanks!
Great video! I'm pretty new to woodworking and have just a few projects under my belt. I forced myself to learn dovetails because I thought it was a good skill but had already decided my next project would use lock rabbit joints so this video was perfect timing. Made 3 drawers today and they came out great 1st time. Thanks.
Nice video. Never thought it was safe to cut a piece on end like that, without a jig. Glad you changed the insert at least. Thanks, and please stay safe.
With the exception of the throat plate I felt that it was a safe cut. I guess it all in the level of experience on the saw
I was afraid to make drawers they looked so confusing. I love how you made this now with your directions I’m not afraid. Thank you 🙏🏻
Awesome! So glad it was helpful!
You want confusing try to figure out a dovetail jig. Wholly. You've got to be like a rocket scientist to get it to work. I did it one day just to do it and still just managed to get it to halfway kind of work. What I did worked but wasn't fully correct as per how you're supposed to do it. To get that would have been another adjustment. Well two really. There's the upper and lower stop. Maybe next time?
Great Video!!! You have helped me to understand how easy it can be to make drawers.............I'm a "Newbie" and this video is a KEEPER !!!!
Thanks so much for making such a clear, easy to understand video. I'm about to build out my router table and it'll be my first time making drawers. This method seems like it makes pretty quick, easy work of it.
Glad it was helpful!
with the router table you can interrupt the cut and not have square holes show on the ends
video is soooo good i now need another table saw as a dedicated dado machine !!! good job....nice shop!
Thanks John! I appreciate rhat
When I worked as a table saw operator, I always made throat plates for every size dado blade set. My cuts were always perfect with no shedding or marring. Was going to say whenever I make a drawer with 1/4" stock I never used a measuring tape, but actually used a piece of the stock I am using to make a perfect fit for the drawer. As you know bought wood stock is never always the same so it's best to use the actual stock you are using as a guide for the height of the blade and the distance of the blade to the fence. I say this a the head tablesaw operator in many shops in the Midwest for over 20 years. Nice job btw...
Thanks and I like the info! All very true
I have been making drawers for almost 40 years. Never have seen your method. I think it's very clever using the rabbit and dado method. Gonna have to try that.
I also use a stack dado on my table saw, but there is no way I'd use it for cutting rabbits in the end. My brother lost part of his finger to a dado set years ago. I'm so glad you stopped and changed your blade cover. That was a near miss! I understand your goal was simplicity with a table saw. But I would reccomend using a router for this end cuts. Way safer and just as effective.
Thanks and some good insights! I appreciate the comment
Well that scared the crap out of me. Glad you noticed it right away and didn't get hurt.
Hahaha I always go slow when using the saw so that if I notice something that’s not right I can abort the cut easily.
I built a quick plywood chest drawers 35 years ago for my infant son using this exact method and its still holding up. That’s 18 years at home, 4 years of college and four additional moves. It’s now in my granddaughter’s possession. I’ve also built drawers for the shop and that are loaded down with power tools and junk 35 years ago and everything is holding up like a champ. 😎
I save good woodworking videos like this for my husband, self, and teen son. We all love any reason to get more tools, lol!
Hahah glad it was helpful!!!
New subscriber here. Thanks for the video. I am thinking of making drawers for the shop as well as the kitchen and this was helpful. The shop will have heavy duty loads and may even do some finger joints for them.
Great video! Thanks! Loved the reality parts you left in....like not finding your clamps right away! That’s real life right there...😂
😂 Thanks! I can never a damn thing hahah
Exactly! I have eleventyseven clamps in every size. But can I ever find them when I need them?
Thanks for this! I just inherited a shopsmith mark5 and I have about 200 scrap pallets that I am going to make a tool chest out of. My sides, back, and top and bottom will have slat boards glued together for thickness, framed with the 2x4 runners. I don't have a planer or jointer yet, so I'll have to square out the 2x4's for the drawers to sit on vs making slides for now. I was trying to look for simple drawers to make and the title dead simple drawers was the top pick. Thanks for all the details!
Awsome! I’m sure they will work just fine for that project! Be safe!
In some shops the only flat space available for glue-ups IS the table saw. That said, you can protect the surface using WAX PAPER or FREEZER PAPER (plastic side up). Btw, thx for the tute. I’ll be in need of this info by spring.
Haha that’s very true and some paper would really help keep that bed clean. Thanks!
I built a tabletop of plywood that fits snugly on the top of my table saw. It’s easy on and easy off.
Parchment paper works as well
@@kennethdavis4987 C L E V E R!! I like that idea!
A table saw may not be the only flat surface but it is often the flattest surface in many shops. A decent table saw should be pretty flat. It can be a Blanchard ground surface.
As a DIYer, that throat plate change was huge. I knew right then i could find some good information on this channel. Subscribe! Thanks.
Great video! This was awesome to follow along and will be giving a try this weekend for my first drawer build. Thx! 🙏
Thank you!
How did it go with the drawer build?
Excellent video, description is mega clear and I'm definitely ditching pocket holes for this method, thank you. I have a Dewalt job site saw that will not take a dado stack as the spindle isn't long enough, but it can take a 6mm grooving blade, which should be perfect for this. Thank you very much. :)
Great work and teaching style - thank you and keep up the good work!
Thanks David! I appreciate that!
Oh perfect. I just got a set of box joint blades for Christmas and they'll work perfect for this. Thanks!
Heck yeah! Sounds like the big man in red came through for you! Haha
You made making drawers look so easy. I was wondering, since I am a newbie, why did you not glue the bottom 1/4 plywood? Is it because you don't want squeeze out of glue inside the drawer? Just wondering and awesome video. Thanks for being real. Cheers.
I like to allow for any seasonal movement of the bottom wood. It’s minimal if any ans some glue the bottoms. Personal preference really
So the wood can expand and contract which is called thermal expansion and is affected by the ambient room temp and humidity
The drawer can’t fall out of the bottom because it is in a dado or router groove and secure by the groove and it can’t fall out.
For me, it’s less permanent so if the bottom ever needs replacing, it’s not glued in.
I wasn't thrilled with this video at first, but it interested me enough to not skip it...then the more I watched the more I liked the video, and by the end I was in love with this video and subscribed. Thanks for swapping out the throat plate. I was watching and thought this piece of wood is about to drop and either kick back and hurt him or ruin the piece of wood, but I'm glad you stopped to fix it and added this correction to the video. We're all human and we all make mistakes, but you're honest enough to leave them in as teachable moments. Subscribed, and saved to my file of videos for reworking the cabinets in our kitchen.
The only negative about this was the links you included. I work in IT and I ABSOLUTELY HATE tiny URLs like this. They redirect you to a new link and although I do not work in cyber security, that's never something I trust because you either have to take it on faith the person isn't sending you somewhere bad, or take the time to put the tiny URL into a site and have it resolve out the true URL that is hidden. It's nothing personal against you, just a good general rule of thumb to follow to keep your PC safe from malicious code. I have enough faith to use these, but I'll still cringe when I do.
Well, I really appreciate the kind comment and honesty! I don’t mind showing my mistakes and actually encourage it. How else will we all learn? Sorry about the links. Amazon gives the option for shorter links and I thought that they made the section appear to look cleaner
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I totally understand. If you don't work in IT and have some familiarity with IT security, you'd not have a reason to know these things. I still click these links because most woodworkers are not going to have all the IT savvy to be malicious in that way. There are exceptions...our system administrator on our network years ago was one of the best woodworkers I know, and if he wanted, he could have done anything malicious he put his mind to...but thankfully he wasn't that type of person. :0)
I've always tried to not use miter gauge and fence at one time. When using miter gauge a small 3/4 scrap against fence at front edge of saw will give you a safety space with miter gauge. You only have to bind a board once to never forget. Great post not complaining.
Gary. I’ve had a kick back that almost broke my arm.
Good advice