5 Ways to Joint Boards Without A Jointer | Woodworking Tip
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 июн 2024
- 5 Ways to joint boards without a jointer, including jointing boards with a circular saw. No jointer? You can joint lumber using a variety of ways including tape, jointing sled, and even using a standard level. If you are having trouble getting straight edges on your boards, these methods will help. When milling rough lumber you will need to get a flat edge on your boards by jointing one side. Jointing allows you to put two boards tight together when making table tops. See if these jointing without a jointer method can work for you. Amazon and other affiliate links are used in this description and they help support this channel.
Videos To Watch Next
Multi-Use Cross Cut Sled: • How to Make a Cross-Cu...
Pocket Hole Hacks: • Top 13 Pocket Hole Tip...
Zero Clearance Inserts: • Zero Clearance Inserts...
Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store
MicroJig Sled Plans: • DIY: 3-In-One Tall Fen...
5 More Ways To Joint Boards Without a Jointer: • 5 Ways to Joint a Boar...
Sign up for the 731 email newsletter to get exclusive deals, be notified of new content, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-w...
Buy our woodworking plans here: www.731woodworks.com/store
Massca Clamps and Pocket Hole Jig Products: masscaproducts.com?aff=3
Tools used in This Build
Digital Angle Finder: amzn.to/3sXXpKJ
Jointing Jig Plans www.731woodworks.com/store/jo...
MicroJig Dovetail Clamp Kit (clamps, bit, and more) amzn.to/3IQmNt9
4 foot level: amzn.to/3hkTx23
MicroJig Dovetail Clamps (Amazon)- amzn.to/3REdVeb
MicroJig Dovetail Router Bit (Amazon)- amzn.to/3PhN1Hq
Microjig Matchfit Dovetail Clamps (TayTools): lddy.no/ys98
Microjig Matchfit Dovetail Bit (TayTools): lddy.no/ys99
Microjig Matchfit Hardware Kit (TayTools): lddy.no/ys9c
1/4" Relief Bit (I discovered this really isn't needed): lddy.no/ys9a
TreWax Paste Wax: amzn.to/3uJmRTK
Two-Sided Tape: amzn.to/3vZb7N2
Straight Edge: amzn.to/3hlxKHq
Use codes 731CMT10 for CMT items and 731Microjig10 for MicroJig and get 10% off those products at Taylor Tools
3x3 Custom Jointing Video: • Milling Rough Lumber W...
Join this channels membership to get access to exclusive member only discounts and perks:
/ @731woodworks
Support us on Patreon: / 731woodworks
Camera Equipment Used for Videos
Canon M50 amzn.to/3en9EaQ
Canon 22mm Lens: amzn.to/32fp79w
GoPro Hero 8: amzn.to/2JY48l2
Microphone I Use: amzn.to/3crbxTX
0:00 Jointing Boards without a Jointer
0:29 Jointing Boards with a Level
3:24 Jointing Boards with Plywood
5:55 Making a DIY Jointing Jig
10:28 Using DIY Joint Jig
13:05 DIY Tapering Jig for Table Saw
15:10 Jointing Boards with Tape
16:06 Jointing Boards with a Circular Saw
18:05 Jointing with a Jointer vs No Jointer
#woodworking #jointing #woodworkingtips 
Хобби
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/731woodworks05211
You could always flip it over and use a straight edge and tape measure. Measure the same distance on both ends and draw your line
Awesome vid man. I have a question though. I'm new to the woodworking thing. I've never even touched a router before in my life. My question is do you think the Ridgid corded router will work for making that sled? Its 5.5 amps and rated as 1.5hp. They're calling it a trim router. The reason I ask is because there's a smoking hot deal on it right now. The router and a sheet sander for $99. By itself without the sander is normally $129. It looks like Ridgid only makes 1 cordless router. Without battery (I already have them anyway) they're also $129.
The questions section of the corded is a mixed bag. Ridgid rep says it can't handle a dovetail, users says it might if you use multiple passes. Your method with 2 different bits makes me think it probably could.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Edit: another question...why didn't you just make all the first cuts with the first bit, then follow up with the dovetail? Moving the straight edge is easier and faster than swapping bits, no?
@@KlockoFett h
@@KlockoFett I own 6 different hand held routers. Why you ask because the price was right for correcting my mistakes and I did the foolish thing the first time I purchased a router and bought a unit to small for the task. For heavy work buy a reputable hand held router that will work for the main purpose and for various other uses such as a router table mounted unit. I have 2 Porter Cables, 1 is dedicated to my Incra Router table with Lift and yes I have the base if I should ever need to use it as a hand held that unit is 3.25hp. The second unit is a Porter Cable 890 2.5 hp and came as a kit with 3 bases , D base, Plunge base, Standard base. It is 16 years old and has seen thousands of board feet in usage and still going strong. I originally used it under my router table big mistake not enough HP. 3rd unit is a Ridged trim router and I picked it up on sale for 59.00 years ago and only purchased it because I could not find my Makita trim router at the time. Those two units are only used to make door jams , door hinge /strike plate cuts and very light profile work because of the 1/4 inch collect . Such as trimming edge banding for frameless cabinets and shelving. I did Formica work long ago when I used to repair counter tops in apartments that had Formica. I also have an older Bosch 1600 series and use it for various hand held stuff, but my go to is my Porter Cable with my Omni Jig 4216 for dove tails because of the template guide bushings. I also have a Craftsman router that is a Bosch 1600 series disguised as a Craftsman and I picked it up off craigslist for 50 only because it was a packaged deal I wanted the dove tail bits and circle template, guides bushings, parallel guide the guy was selling. That is one of the other reasons I own a Bosch they're motors and bases ( Craftsman/ Bosch) are interchangeable and I can set different bits in the motors when sign making. Then the most expensive and it is dedicated for one job only and that is my Festool OF10 and it is mated to a LS32 system for shelf pins and other rail system routing needs. I had to pick up a collect to let the unit work with my 1/2 inch router bits. the factor collects are mm.
So in summary think about what you are going use the router for before you buy ( most import part of owning any tool or machine). Buy it once save time and save money by getting the correct tool the first time around.
Trim routers are for very light work only and come with a 1/4 in collect if I recall correctly. 2.5 hp routers will handle light task to medium heavy tasks come with both 1/4 in and1/2 in collets and MM collects are available if you want to use Euro bits. 3.5 hp Routers all task can be done with one, but they are heavy use both 1/4 in and 1/2 in along with mm collects, Will mount to a router lift / plate for table usage. Important factors : Soft start and variable speeds are a definite thing to have on a router or the ability to step the speed down. ( Not all bits turn at the same speed. Warranties are semi important. but for the cost of say a Bosch 1617 dual base standard and plunge $219.99 at Lowes just easier to go get another when out of manufacture warranty. Name brands are just that name brands most all tools are made in China or Taiwan. I have 5 different name brands and would not change a thing because each one has it's usage as I have adjusted to that. For a non production shop get a multi base setup in a kit for general usage and a trim with attachments for special work. Plunge base is a good option to have hence the multi base kit. I was against plunge base routers for a time in the beginning because I did not understand the multitude of things a plunge could do. Piss poor training by piss poor instructor(s) leads to piss poor knowledge and piss poor decisions in tools and their usages. hope this long very long post sheds some light onto the subject for you or any one else brave enough to read through it all. Because when I started out there was no RUclips and most craftsmen were stingy with the knowledge of the trade and apprenticeships were very hard to come by.
@@KlockoFett To answer your question the router the poster of the video is using is a palm router aka equivalent of a trim router. So that router is working over time to cut that much material with a dove tail bit. and Heat kills/ dulls router bits very fast. So using an under power router would require the usage of two bits for ease of cutting and to reduce tear out. But also it is a good practice to use that setup . Straight bit to get to depth of the dove tail plus it removes majority of material. Dove tail bit only has to remove the beveled cut of the dove tail. Keeps dove tail bit cooler and prolongs the life of the bit. As dove tail bits cost a lot more than a straight bit. Router horse power is also a big factor in bit usage. That is why poster made statement about router table.
I should tell you that I used to watch my carpenter grandfather joint using a handsaw back in the 60s. When he built cabinets for our bathroom he would take to well matched edges and glue them together, then saw through the glue line, then re-glue them back together leaving a pretty much invisible line. Any variance from straight was matched with the opposite variance on the other piece. He did pretty much everything with hand tools back then.
You have a wonderful channel, thank you and God bless.
It is pretty spectacular when you realize the quality those men put out with just their hand tools.
I'm 59 yr old women I bought some plans from you ..awesome is the only word I can use ..made$ 500 on first item I made . I never made anything from wood before..ty
You go girl! I just got my board planer. It's still in the box because I'm busy building a staircase with venetian tile risers and solid wood steps.
Though I just got the next couple days off, might be unboxing time! Already made my planer sled.
I feel like a hand plane deserves mention as a method to joint a board without a jointer. Even a really good jointer plane is cheaper, smaller, and quieter than a jointer and an inexpensive jack plane can do a great job as well. The jack plane will also get a ton of other use around the shop. These techniques and jointing with a hand plane are also complementary because the machine techniques can get you close and do most of the work and then following up with a hand plane can get you perfect. This remains true once you get access to a jointer, just "close" gets a lot closer and ideally there is very little work to remove the machine marks and make the surface perfect.
Absolutely! I’m into violinmaking and we always joint the plates with a hand plane, the jointer would remove too much material and could chip out the flames on the maple! Hand planes rock :)
100%!
You are. Correct, but it is a skill in it's self to use those hand plains. I suck with every one I've used😂
@@lancep9394 need more practice. A little trick too. Edge join 2 boards by clamping both boards in a vice, edges up and flush. Assuming they are about 3/4" wide, the plane iron can hit both at once. Both sides wind up as flat as the plane.
@@lancep9394 The key is to use a shooting board. This enables you to lay the plane on its side guaranteeing a 90 degree cut. There are special jointer planes to use but a No. 5 jack plane, or longer, will do fine. Quicker than setting up the table saw!
Love the fence jig - gonna make one of those! Regarding the 90-degree blade set - the most foolproof method is to joint the first board face up, then joint the second board face down. The two edges may not be exactly 90 degrees each, but the two together will always be 180 degrees and a dead flat perfect join.
If the board is wibbly wobbly you are probably best getting a flatter board or, if the thickness of the board is not a concern, planing the board to be more flat or completely flat is a good option. A much more involved option is steaming the board and then clamping it in some sort of straightening jig. If the bard is cupped or otherwise warped and you joint it, the whole piece is not going to be right anyway (unless that is what you are going for).
I love how OP is focusing on the side of the boards and along comes somone talking about the steps that should have already been done...
Its like telling an old man we just launched a rocket into space back in the 60's only to have him explain the importance of aerodynamics for lift on an airplane wing...
My husband will call you a hero! You just saved his wife from spending way more than he wants me to spend on my "hobby"!!! ;-) THANK YOU!
I’ve never seen a jointer jig like that before. That’s super simple and awesome!
Hey Matt! Love so much about your video, most of all, your engaging, humble, humorous and honest personality, along with all the technical stuff that makes for a clean, clear video. Greatly appreciate the look behind the curtain to learn from your oops - dropped push block and pulling the dovetail bit up out of the groove. I had a couple questions, but you already answered one in the video (I had to watch again before it sunk in) about using a relief bit to put less wear and tear on the dovetail bit, and one about wishing for a router table - so that you could do all your relief cuts, then all your dovetail cuts, only changing the bit once, and using a table's fence and not having to clamp and re-clamp straightedges several times. Thanks!
Hey brother, been watching your channel for a while. For many years I liked wood working, I’m finally getting started. TYJ!
Carlos >
Absolutely love the sled idea.
Hadn’t seen method #2 before, nice! And #3 blew me out of the water. Gotta make that one for myself ASAP. Very cool tips and tricks here today, thanks for sharing!
The best way I heard to describe why the level trick works is because the level being longer than the fence allows both ends of the board to maintain contact. With a regular fence the opposite end of the board is not in contact with the fence and is allowed to move side to side as the cut starts.
I loved when you pointed out that it can be a high fence also for things like tapered table tops.
Love the 4ft level trick! I use it all the time but might try out the micro jig set up. Also love the shirt, that’s a great album! 👍🏻
Man I was in the garage trying to figure this out about to search an you posted a min later. On my tv app. So I had to come back an say thanks man! 👊
👊🏻
I love the tapering jig. That's awesome. Great job. Thank you for sharing this.
Nice! Once my tiny workshop is built, I’ve gotta build a jointer sled like that. Thanks for the detailed walk through!
Ive been doing the 4ft level trick since I first saw your video on it awhile ago. The sled is next on my to-do list because you make it looks so easy and effective. Love it!
I got my sled made the other day! I went for 2 layers of 3/4 mdf. I wanted 1" mdf, but austin hardwoods was out of stock...
I glued them and clamped them to a piece of stone slab to stay dead flat. I got a nice 2' x 7' piece of slab scrap from the job I'm on. The things that get thrown away in construction are amazing. I could make end table tops if I didn't want to save it to try my hand @ vereering.
There's more slab at the job too. A couple nice full counter pieces that broke on install. It's a crazy blue color. I want it, but it's not in the trash pile. I'm considering talking to the homeowner about possibly using it as a base and rim for wood pots on thier deck.
You know what I like about your channel is the way you explain stuff in the most easiest way possible. Not many like you. Thanks for the video ❤❤❤
This video absolutely made my day! I have some live edge maple slabs that I plan to put together. I've been racking my brain on ways to get a nice square cut for my seams, and this video just solved it for me. I had planned to screw a straight edge to them to run along my tablesaw fence, but this jointer looks like it would be an awesome thing to use instead!
one thing I like about the jointer sled vs the jointer machine, NO SNIPE!! yay
I have a Craftsman Jointer that I've owned for 30+ years. But this looks so much simpler to use! I'll be making one of these for sure! Thanks for the video Matt!
Great video Matt. Interesting content, well edited, and your personality shows. You seem relaxed like a person doing what they love. If you had a router table you could show how to joint boards with it. I am sure you will have one soon. Keep making sawdust.
I appreciate that!
That plywood fence trick is gold! I have never seen that before.
Thanks for sharing! A big thank you from Bonny Scotland! I like the sled, although I'd be tempted to go with the T-track system, as I already own several clamps. The level trick was a new one for me, absolutely tremendous solution to use on-site. Watching your tutorial, I couldn't help thinking that the trusty tracksaw might be the easiest solution to jointing boards. It's a bit late now, but I'll give it a go in the morning. Love your T-shirt BTW! 👍
On the jointer jig at the end, leaving the sharp edge on that one side can also prevent tearout depending on how close you set the fixture to the blade. I am going to make one of these!
Great video Matt. That sled came out awesome. Some real nice information. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thank you
Kudos on jointing using the level as a guide and then ripping. Simple, quick, efficient. I carry all my tools in my car, don't have a ton of room for machinery and all kinds of jigs. As soon as I saw you setting it up, I knew where you were going and that it would work. Great idea!
Exellent jointing jig with those dovetails tracks !
Encore bravo Matt !
Finally! Thank you so much for explaining why you can't just use the fence. Every video I see about jointing boards on the table saw has confused me and left me wondering "but why is that different from using the fence as the reference?". Finally I understand. Thanks so much.
I love your videos and your wonderful personality. As a beginner, I learn so much from you.
Great video! I’ve been doing the level trick since I saw your first video about it. It’s helped me turn out some great products. I think I’m going to go for #2, the fence jig, once I can actually find some plywood!
Ya I'm making one of these soon, I just need to sort out the clamps. I like ratcheting gear clamps. Haven't seen dovetail ones, I'm wondering if my festool ones might work, but I might need to install T-track for that. I have some jorgensen ones that work the same way but are normal style clamps. I'm 100% sold on this style quick clamp! I got 4, 8" jorgensen ones on the zon for $14 each.
I've got plywood coming out of my ears! You could probably get a piece free from a jobsite. I would check small jobsites and ask to talk to the contractor. I get most my plywood free from jobs I'm on. It's always around somewhere and often building up as trash.
I got a full sheet of 3/8" and an almost full sheet of 3/4" and some decent pieces of 1/2" from my last job. Plus a 2' x 7' slab of stone! 2 10" x 10' 4/4 oak boards, 6-6"x6"x8' pine lumber, 2 4x6's, and a 4x4. That trash pile was like Christmas!
That sled is amazing. You can do so much with it. Thanks for showing us how to make it :D
Excellent video! Glad I found your channel. Thanks for creating it.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Got to thinking about how we could handle longer boards and found a solution that works really well for us. We have a Bora Portamate saw guide that we use for 8’ plywood. Just clamped it along the edge of the 8’ board and ran it through the table saw with the guide against the fence. Then ran the board through with the ripped edge against the fence. Thanks for the inspiration!
How do you clamp a straight edge to the board and still slide it on the table saw and against the fence? I was also wondering about how to use all of these solutions for boards over 4ft in length.
@@djbartles7337 that’s the beauty of the boramate. It has a built in clamping system that clamps on each end of the board. The board can’t be longer than the boramate.
Great video.
As for the need for a perfect 90° between the table saw and its blade (0:53) you're absolutely right, it is better to have a perfect 90° cut however, if you alternate-flip the boards to be joined, the offset angle is canceled and the finished board will still be flat.
The farther from 90°, the more effort it'll take to keep the boards flat on the table when you glue them together, but for small offsets that's not a big issue.
Thank you for making this video and also pointing out using it as a vertical high fence jig. Im now just starting to build cabinetry for our garage, and will need this, especially for upright mortise and tenon.
That level trick was the bomb! Thanks for saving me al lot of extra time with that little gem. Awesome videos!
I grew up hearing “joinery” instead of Jointery. I think in the old days, joinery was a term for all woodwork that was “joined” at corners, like casework. I checked Google, and “jointer” is now used about half the time. Anyway, I really enjoy your style. Very informative.
I was wondering the same thing. Thanks
Jointers square the edge of a boars. Joinery is, like you mentioned, for joining corners, like a dovetail. Planers, while I’m at it, flatten the face of the board. So, if you joint the edges, you can ensure you have 2 flat edges to glue boards together. If they’re planed, they’ll be flat across the face, and if you want to make a nice corner without screws or nails, there are lots of joinery techniques you can use.
You mentioning Tamara and then using a circular saw immediately made me think to make a plywood circular saw guide like a track saw many youtubers make but have the bottom with the microjig clamping system to give it more versatility and ease of use. You could put a couple wings off the start and end of the guide to be able to clamp it to a workbench and hang more off the edge.
How about making a video showing your idea? Sounds good but can't visualise without seeing it too
Love the jig you make with your router, when achieving perfect joins with timber, however I loved your T-Shirt more.
Thanks Martin 😊
I really appreciate your diligence in checking various products and then passing those findings on to us. You do a very enjoyable presentation and a very valuable service. Thank you and God bless you!!!
You could also hold each board together and run the table saw through the touching sides creating a perfect edge.
@Adam Kramer You are right but the question is would you be able to run two separate pieces together until to the end in the same speed trough the saw blade, if you understand what I mean.
Yea that could be tricky and a little dangerous
If you screw them together on both ends with a a thicker scrap piece this works great.
This is a great idea, at least for joining boards that aren't too wide. especially if you rig up adjustable fences on both sides of the table to make sure both boards can push through evenly. I'm going to try this right now, thanks!
Yeah and for longer cuts, clamp them down to a table. You could just use circular saw straight through it with a track. Perfect everytime.
"Magic Dust" EPIC🤣🤣😍😍
I clamp a straight edge to the fence, like a 6' level, and run the concave side of the board against it. The straight edge has to be at least twice as long as the board. Works great.
I liked your light hearted humour... learning the various techniques was a joy... !
This was a great demonstration of how to joint boards! It was easy to follow along with you. Thank you so much. You will have a million subscribers in no time because you are doing as to the Lord and doing your best!
Thank you
I like it when you show mistakes and all. We all make mistakes!
When using the angle finder , it depends if your table is level? Better with a square.
The use of the sliding levels along the fence to square a plywood edge were perfect for me - I had almost given up on working with plywood until I tried it - it works - thanks!
Thank u fer showin me how ta make my tablesaw a small plainer.
An alternative method is to use leg bolts up through the bottom of the sled similar to Rockler's Hold-Down Clamps instead of duct tape, much more secure. Drill the holes for the bolts offset from the center so you have a side for wide and narrow material.
Love the shirt! Oh, very good video too :)
Thanks! 😃
I see your Maine State Police license plate. Mine is #1. Hope you have as great a retirement as I have. Also the hints are super and help me out considerabley.
Great ideas! I love the channel.
A friend bought a second router body just to avoid those constant changes. He said the time savings paid for it in a week 😁
You are such a blessing!!!! God bless you!!!! Just starting out and learning is so much easier with people like yourself and Tamar and so on. No jointer so improvisation is key. Thank you so much for your content
👊🏻
Digging that shirt
Also these were great tips you shared, sadly it only works for edge jointing. No real safe way to face joint on a table saw.
I had an edge joining sled years ago that was okay, a bit of a pain to setup. This makes waaaay more sense. Thank you! Liked and subscribed
That sled was genius!!
I actually cheered when those boards lined up tight.
Will be making one.
Bravo!!
You have no idea how much u have taught me with these videos. You have really made my passion for learning g to build things grow immensely. Really appreciate all you do for the comunity. Best wood working channel on youtube brother. Keep doing what you do.
Thank you!
Great video and cool sled. Power tools are great, but don’t forget that for jointing edges, a simple hand plane works extremely well even for long boards, especially if you don’t have a table saw. Check out both Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman.
You have cured my jointer envy. I made my first jointer jig (second method you shared). Used it for cutting up pieces for an end grain cutting board. The joints were like butter! I will probably make another version that takes finer cuts (mine was taking just shy of 1/32" per pass), but am thrilled with the technique. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Love the jointer sled, fabulous idea 👍😀
i have yet to see anyone suggest using a track saw which seems the most easy option?
Only Jesus; thanks for not being shy of my favourite carpenter, Lord and Saviour. Love from SA
Well laid out brother, keep up the great work. Stay safe and adventure on.
Thanks Matt I'll definitely try the one with plywood 👌🏻
Thumbs up for Jesus 👍💪
Awesome tips. Have to make that jig as soon as I can upgrade my table saw
Very useful information. I especially like the joiner/angle/high fence sled. Thanks
Great video on the sled. That's my next project. Thanks for showing how simple it is.
Just used the plywood jig (#2). Fantastic. Thanks for the tip.
Can I just agree with you - your ARE a genius! I love your videos. Thanks for continuing to make therm.
Frustrating attempt after frustrating attempt I was about to give up and pull the trigger on a jointer. That jig just saved me a couple hundred bucks... for now =)
So many possibilities for this jig, thank you for sharing
This is really cool. I don’t do enough serious woodworking do justify buying a jointer, and honestly probably never will. These kinds of tips make processes like this so much more available and possible for me, thanks!
I love when I find a RUclipsr that actually helps me improve my craft.
These are tips I'm actually going to be able to use.
Awesome!
Thanks for the video! This sled is going to be a game changer for small shops that don't have a lot of room.
Came here for some jointing information and decided the jointing sled seems like the way to go. Thanks!
This video was amazing. I'm going to make that sled. I hope it works as good as your. Thanks 😊
Great tips. Used the level to get the job done. What a simple thing and works great.
I'm just getting started and found this very helpful. God Bless you and yours!
Idk why, but the edits in this vid are really rad compared to every other one I've seen. Whatever you did here, it's the winner.
First off I’m going to say the t shirt says it all👍
New subscriber and I watch Andybird Builds and followed his lead to you.
Great Content and will look forward to learning alot from your experience.
“Only Jesus”… thank you for being bold in that way!
I really like the sled, with clamps idea. Great job. Saved me from buying a jointer for my SMALL shop.
I used the 4' level for 2x10x10. Worked great!
Thanks for the info. looking to make a farmhouse table and this will help a lot when making the table top!! excellent info.
taper Jig looks like the way to go. Thanks for the knowledge!
Great video! I hope to be trying the 4ft level method later today.
I like that you have the Maine State Police plate in the background! (I am from and in Maine)
That joint jig is the best! So satisfying to see the result. Thanks for sharing. God bless you all
Turning the Matchfit sled upside down to use as a circular saw jointing sled is pure genius.
Been woodworking for years, never saw a joint/taper jig like that before, love it. Great video!
Thank you
I really liked the board with the raised blade. Excellent solution.
Great video 731! Keep'em coming!!!
Excellent presentation. Thanks for the valuable knowledge!
Circular saw for the win! Thanks. God bless.
I LIKE your style! Not possessing a shop like Norm Abrams (New Yankee Workshop - yea, I'm dating myself), and not having a tool for every purpose, we must learn to adapt. I especially liked the level for cutting a straight joint it would be a simple task to clamp a stop-block to the level to insure the wood you're jointing passed through without slipping. In the meantime, you've earned my subscription....
I appreciate the subtle connection between your shirt and the topic of carpentry 😉
Your level trick is priceless. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Southern boys are usually ingenious! Use what you have. May the Lord be with you and keep you 🤐
Amazing Work and a Great tutorial with a great personality