I do something similar but I added a rail under the jig to ride in the mitre slot. This does away with the need for a fence and doesn't limit the width of the board to be jointed. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video, well explained. The only thing I do differently on the table saw is cut the finished face up on one board and finish face down on the adjoining board. This means if your saw blade is not 100% vertical the joint will still be tight.
An even better method (in my opinion) that works with the table saw (and is dead simple with a track saw) is to stack the two boards and run them over / under the saw. The blade angle no longer matters. After the single cut, just fold the top board over and you have, by definition, a perfectly complimentary pair of edges to glue. No need to faff around with making sure your blade is orthogonal to the work. Only one cut per pair of boards. Works with boards that are not straight / flat.
Nice work. For those of us who have problems keeping the jig up against the fence. Adding a guide rail to match the groove on the table saw would help. A good source of guide rails is old miter gauges for table saws.
Another great video as usual! 3rd option is using the tracksaw, and if they are quite close you can push them together and cut a single kerb blade down the middle! Should match perfectly
I’ve seen both of these techniques elsewhere. However, yours was the most lucid and clear exclamation. Thank you. I also like the drunken lines on the table saw jig.
Another method is to clamp the two boards to the bench with a 4mm to5mm gap between the two edges to be jointed. Then run a router with a 6mm cutter down the gap. Regards Keith
3:51 If you don't want to cut those clampholding grooves, you can just stick down your board to the sled with double sided tape, hot melt glue, or the old "blue tape and super glue trick". Another way to clamp it down would be just screwing a series of small wood blocks down with a drywall screw to act as clamps.
Hi Stewart, i ran into the same problem a few years ago and so i went the easier route of buying a Bench Top Jointer from Rutlands, i have seen the same said Jointer on Rutlands website lately and let me tell you one thing, i'm really glad that i bought one a few years ago as i nearly fell off my chair when i saw how much it costs now. So, if i didn't have a Bench Top Jointer i 100% would have done it the way that you have shown so thank you for showing me how it's done. Take Care and Stay Safe, Barry (the Wirral)
A few of these jigs in a DIY workshop soon clogs it up - I've learned the hard way! Once you've made a half-decent one, it's very hard to throw it out!
If someone wanted to or has access to Rough sawn wood. I recommend investing in a jointer. Unless you want to spend valuable shop time making silly jig and fixtures. Nothing prepares wood for planing or ripping faster and more accurately then a jointer. Removing twist from your stock is very important to creating flat panels plus a lot more.
A really useful video Stuart, I was considering a jointer but I don't have the space and know it will only get used rarely. These techniques work for me.
Thank you for a great tip. I've been pricing jointers and they are large and expensive. Both of your solutions are effective but I have to say that I love the table saw jig better. I haven't created a jig for my router mostly due to space limitations but one piece of plywood and clamps can easily be stored on the wall with a few brackets and that makes better use of my limited space so I like it best. I've subscribed to your channel and look forward to going through your past videos and new videos as well.
If anyone is following this video and making a sled with tracks that are not parallel to the blade, make sure that your tracks stop well before the edge of the board on the blade side. It would be really easy to position your clamps so that they extend into the path of the saw blade if you leave the tracks open on that side.
Something my Dad taught me (he was a master joiner) - when you're joining the boards and you've cut them on the table saw, flip the alternating ones because you'll compensate for any deviation from 90* and absorb it. Similar to the comment below
Something worth pointing out: you should never use these methods on BOTH sides of the board, only on one side. After you joint the board and have one straight edge, you should put that edge against the table saw fence and cut the other edge that way. Doing this will ensure that the second edge is parallel to the first, in addition to being straight. If you try to joint both sides individually they may not be parallel.
Looks like you have buying you timber at B&Q looking at those edges. 😁 Another way of joining is with a track saw butt the joints a up. Cut down the joint. If the board is terrible, gap bigger than the blade thickness, repeat cut. Perfect joint. Just keep your boards in order as joined you don’t even need the blade at 90 degrees 👍🏻
Thanks for this Stuart. Don't suppose you can remember where you got the clamps from. I've only ever seen Axminster versions before, not the ones you are using at about 06:39 onwards in the video? Cheers.
If you use a #4 or larger hand plane, you can usually get a straight edge easily. If you put the bottoms together with the edges as even as you can in a vice, joint edge up, and plane both boards at the same time, you again can get them straight fairly easy. And they are not required to be exactly 90 degrees. Just fold them open and the two planed edges will match at whatever angle they are.
As a quick hack, you can put a long straight edge on the table saw fence and run your boards thru. It should be long enough so that the board is always fully in contact with the straight edge.
A very quick way to do it, although not optimal, is to put a long steel/alu profile between the board and the fence. It only works though if you have 2 points on the side of the board that will make it a steady "concave" shape against the profile and not convex.
The first one he tried looks like a Makita track clamp. Festool makes a similar one. They're both cheaper than the Microjig model. I don't know if there is any benefit to the Microjig option. The trigger clamps he actually used when cutting the straight edge could be anything.
You got to love subtitles!! 8.44 - 8.49 "....and I put in my straight cutter which is just about deep enough to be able to cut my balls, which are just under a one inch!!!!" 😆What are they doing on the table - haven't you heard of Health and Safety!! One of the best so far!!
I am that person who purchased a jointer to gather dust in the corner, its a great tool Metabo HC260C but like you say not a good use of floorspace/money. Sadly can't help myself buying tools, seems like an addiction.
Great jig. I’ve bought the makita clamps shown in the vid but my dovetail router bit is the incorrect size for the clamps (arggghhhh!). What’s the right size dovetail router bit please?
The method I prefer is to stick a straightedge slightly overhung on the edge that will go against the fence using double-sided tape. If I was going to do this a lot, then I might use your first method.
Stuart, nice tips thank you. Do you realise you’ve invented the Microjig Matchfit clamping system, only without the proprietary clamps? A third option to joint the boards is to use an electric planer clamped on its side and run the boards alongside it. Even if the planer isn’t 90 degrees to the surface as long as you joint one board facing up and the other facing down they will align perfectly. There’s videos of people making a jig to hold the electric planer as well
Thanks, good advise. But better IMHO would be investing in a track saw with a nice long rail, you’ll wonder how you ever worked without one & it won’t gather any dust that’s for sure.
I just use a 4ft Sprit level flush along the Guide fence and push the panel through ALONG with the spirit Level, and there you have your straight edge, then just repeat with the opposite side of the panel.
Really enjoyed the video and don’t mean this to be a negative comment but if you have a track saw why not just run that along the edge instead of making the jig? Then you could run that cut edge along your table saw fence if needed. Anyway, thank you as always!
I just use eucalyptus hard board. It's really thin and then use double sided woodworking tape to hold my board to that and run it though. Sketchier but it works, and on a jobsite saw you wont lose much depth..
You only need something to push the wood if your hands are going to be near the blade otherwise. It would be completely silly to try to use a push stick with a huge board.
Great video Stuart. Can you tell me is that an Evolution table you are using and is that the standard fence that comes with it? Also you used a clamp down straight edge. I have neither of these tools atm and have seen so many bad comments about the evolution saw, but yours seems accurate and not too noisey
I have the same model, it comes with the fence that was used plus an adjustable mitre jig. Note that the bit of the table to the left of the blade can also slide (once you release it) so there is no need for the mitre jig to slide in the slot.
Freehand mains powered router and that metal straight edge. Or blow 150 on Screwfix track saw...which will get used again. Done and off down the boozer.
I would just lay a square on top of the wood "close enough" by eye first within the dimensions of the crooked board, then simply clamp a straight edged guide, cut it with a circular saw, then use that now known straight cut to reference a 90* cross cut for the ends.
Or you can just clamp a straight edge to the board and run the router against it. One rectangular aluminium bar (or tube), a couple of good clamps, no need for a jig. Or a track saw, of course.
Your reason for not wanting a jointer is exactly the same thought that I had. If I can do what I need without an expensive piece of rarely used equipment, why buy that piece of equipment?
This method reqire too much material, time and tools just to straiten two boards. Even if you cut one side free handedly as long as you have a fairly straight line, when you pushed against the fence it will cut the other side straight. If the fence is not long enough you could put a 4' or 6' level or a straight age, board whatever will do job.
Jesus Christ died for all of our sins. He died the death we all deserved. He was the perfect one who never sinned once, but he loved us so much he decided to die for us so our sins would be paid for and we can enter the Kingdom of Heaven before God the Father blamelessly. He is the living son of God who wants to know us and have a personal relationship with us. No matter what you have done no matter how far gone you think you are Jesus can and will save you. All you have to do is confess with your mouth and believe in your heart that Jesus Christ is your Lord and Savior. Believe that he died on the cross for your sins and had a bodily resurrection 3 days later. We cannot be saved by our works but by faith in Christ alone. Repent and turn to Christ. You will have joy, happiness, love, and peace beyond understanding.
Have you seen the price of jointers - don't buy the cheap ones, I made that mistake. You can make a perfect joiner-jig using just the table saw. I used T-track channelled in via table saw - simple, quicker, longer-lasting more accurate than this method.
No, you do not need a jointer. Not a mortice jointer, a biscuit jointer, or any other sort. What you need is a planer. The tool in question planes wood (produces a smooth flat surface) so it is a planer. Any future use the wood is put to (like, perhaps, joining the edges together to make a wider surface) has nothing whatever to do with this tool. It is a (n optional) later operation. Following the American habit of mis-naming this tool is to be deprecated. Even worse is calling a thicknesser a planer. Its purpose is (clearly) to set the thickness of a piece of wood that has already been planed on one side. If you still cannot see the error, I have a question. I use a power hand planer to plane wood- OK? If I turn the plane upside down and move the wood over it (has been known...) is it miraculously turned into another machine? If so, at what angle of rotation does this transformation take place?
The etemology derived from the jointing plane, which was the 24-30" hand plane you'd use to prep boards to join in wide panels. The jointer was the machine that took over the job of the jointing plane.
@@WorBlux So why not call it a jointing planer? And only if you are planeing the edges of boards. There used to be over 8 styles of hand plane (actually lots more), which have largely been replaced by two machines, the planer and the thicknesser. Often combined into one machine. Calling this after just one of those planes (or, rather, the adjective of it) is obtuse in the extreme. Why not name it after what it does? I have owned a planer/thicknesser for several years, and have NEVER used it to join boards together. it is not the sort of woodwork that I do. I am not alone. Indeed, I would bet folding money that for most users in is a minority activity. Indeed, one can argue that butting up two faces is not a joint. You may be joining them, but you are not jointing them. This video recognized this anomaly by putting joint in quotes.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Because jointer is shorter, and that's what everyone else in my country calls it. When you want to be real precise you do say jointing planer, but for more purposes saying jointer gets the point across. Also if you join two things, the interface is the joint. And the act of making the joint is jointing. And there are three main planes used to prepare stock for furniture woodwork. bench/smoother, jack/fore, jointing/try based mainly on the length of the plane body. These are what the jointer/thicknesses planer largely replace, and these machines make 4S lumber quick easy, and a matter of course. But when you had to do it by hand and eye, you'd never prep 4S when a single true face and edge would do just fine, and you'd never grab the big heavy jointing plane unless you were trying to true the edge of a long board, and you really only did that for a large panel glue-up. With the jointer every piece of stock you prep gets that same accuracy even if not needed. The point is that you could join any surface off the jointer to any other with just a bit of glue. Even if a user isn't regularly taking advantage of that fact, the machine is still doing it.
@@WorBlux planer is shorter, by a letter. The interface is not the joint- see joint ownership, joint enterprise etc. it means multiple. The machine in question actually mills wood- it dimensions and regularises it. This is done in four steps; plane flat, plane square, thickness minor dimension, thickness major dimension. This requires two configurations, planer and thicknesser, those names most accurately describing the operations. Calling the dual operation version a mill would be the most accurate. 'Jointer' is clearly a name far removed from this. And any joining, jointing, or other operations are merely a possible future task. As you say, they 'prepare stock'- they do not joint!
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Jointer/planer is four letters and one syllable shorter than planer/thicknesser 😀 Mill is an awfully generic term though. You could just as easily make an argument for cis-planer and trans- planer or first planer and second planer. Perhaps flatinator and parrallellizer strikes your fancy? But the English language is an anarchy, rather than a noocracy. Jointer is what everyone in my circles call it, so jointer it is. I'd even use jointing planer/thickness planer, but if I start talking about a "planer" they are all envisioning the thickness planer, not the jointing planer. There are far worse idiosyncrasies and oddities out there.
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I do something similar but I added a rail under the jig to ride in the mitre slot. This does away with the need for a fence and doesn't limit the width of the board to be jointed.
Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
I agree that is the most safe accurate and simple jig and plus you can also do tapered rips
Nice video, well explained. The only thing I do differently on the table saw is cut the finished face up on one board and finish face down on the adjoining board. This means if your saw blade is not 100% vertical the joint will still be tight.
An even better method (in my opinion) that works with the table saw (and is dead simple with a track saw) is to stack the two boards and run them over / under the saw. The blade angle no longer matters. After the single cut, just fold the top board over and you have, by definition, a perfectly complimentary pair of edges to glue.
No need to faff around with making sure your blade is orthogonal to the work. Only one cut per pair of boards. Works with boards that are not straight / flat.
A similar idea can work with the table saw. Just have to flip the complimentary board to get the mating edge cut to the same angle.
i agree - that is pretty much exactly what I said. 😀
Was just about to comment the same thing
I had an essay typed in as well, but it was more about trusting a factory edge to be straight. 😂
That's the way I also do it
Nice work.
For those of us who have problems keeping the jig up against the fence.
Adding a guide rail to match the groove on the table saw would help.
A good source of guide rails is old miter gauges for table saws.
Another great video as usual! 3rd option is using the tracksaw, and if they are quite close you can push them together and cut a single kerb blade down the middle! Should match perfectly
I’ve seen both of these techniques elsewhere. However, yours was the most lucid and clear exclamation. Thank you. I also like the drunken lines on the table saw jig.
Glad it's not just me who gets wound up by sticky labels!
Don’t get me started on sticky labels on fruit. Grrrrr.
Isn’t this done on purpose to stop people swapping labels within the shop and getting a cheaper price?
Weres the knife on the dim saw ?
@@H01m3sthat does make sense
Lighter fluid works a treat, too.
Another method is to clamp the two boards to the bench with a 4mm to5mm gap between the two edges to be jointed. Then run a router with a 6mm cutter down the gap. Regards Keith
That is actually very smart. I'm going to use that, having no table saw.
3:51 If you don't want to cut those clampholding grooves, you can just stick down your board to the sled with double sided tape, hot melt glue, or the old "blue tape and super glue trick". Another way to clamp it down would be just screwing a series of small wood blocks down with a drywall screw to act as clamps.
Thanks for the clear explanation. There's some amusing auto generated subtitles at 8.41
Cheers Stuart, useful practical advice as usual from yourself, presented in a clear yet entertaining manner - always worth watching !
Two ways to joint a board simply and well explained. Thanks
Hi Stewart, i ran into the same problem a few years ago and so i went the easier route of buying a Bench Top Jointer from Rutlands, i have seen the same said Jointer on Rutlands website lately and let me tell you one thing, i'm really glad that i bought one a few years ago as i nearly fell off my chair when i saw how much it costs now. So, if i didn't have a Bench Top Jointer i 100% would have done it the way that you have shown so thank you for showing me how it's done.
Take Care and Stay Safe,
Barry (the Wirral)
£140 doesn't seem too bad (in the sale now)
A few of these jigs in a DIY workshop soon clogs it up - I've learned the hard way! Once you've made a half-decent one, it's very hard to throw it out!
If someone wanted to or has access to Rough sawn wood. I recommend investing in a jointer.
Unless you want to spend valuable shop time making silly jig and fixtures.
Nothing prepares wood for planing or ripping faster and more accurately then a jointer.
Removing twist from your stock is very important to creating flat panels plus a lot more.
i have joined the boades with the track saw it has made edge jointing easy a couple cuts and you havematching edges.
A really useful video Stuart, I was considering a jointer but I don't have the space and know it will only get used rarely. These techniques work for me.
Thank you for a great tip. I've been pricing jointers and they are large and expensive. Both of your solutions are effective but I have to say that I love the table saw jig better. I haven't created a jig for my router mostly due to space limitations but one piece of plywood and clamps can easily be stored on the wall with a few brackets and that makes better use of my limited space so I like it best. I've subscribed to your channel and look forward to going through your past videos and new videos as well.
I made a straight edge jig using t tracks and t clamps. So worth the effort
Love the jig. Bravo!
If anyone is following this video and making a sled with tracks that are not parallel to the blade, make sure that your tracks stop well before the edge of the board on the blade side. It would be really easy to position your clamps so that they extend into the path of the saw blade if you leave the tracks open on that side.
Something my Dad taught me (he was a master joiner) - when you're joining the boards and you've cut them on the table saw, flip the alternating ones because you'll compensate for any deviation from 90* and absorb it. Similar to the comment below
Something worth pointing out: you should never use these methods on BOTH sides of the board, only on one side. After you joint the board and have one straight edge, you should put that edge against the table saw fence and cut the other edge that way. Doing this will ensure that the second edge is parallel to the first, in addition to being straight. If you try to joint both sides individually they may not be parallel.
But having both edges parallel isn't a requirement for joining boards. Sometimes it's not needed.
Hi Stuart,another very informative video ,with nice DIY techniques.
is there away of flatten the top of a board without a thicknesser, lov ethe videos.
Wonderful indeed. Such is possible thru an experienced diy. 👍
The Patreon version of this video is very funny!
This was really helpful…thank you!
Great video. I love current tool having multiple functions
this is most awesome idea ever
Looks like you have buying you timber at B&Q looking at those edges. 😁
Another way of joining is with a track saw butt the joints a up. Cut down the joint. If the board is terrible, gap bigger than the blade thickness, repeat cut. Perfect joint. Just keep your boards in order as joined you don’t even need the blade at 90 degrees 👍🏻
Excellent as always Stuart, thank you 👍
Thanks for this Stuart. Don't suppose you can remember where you got the clamps from. I've only ever seen Axminster versions before, not the ones you are using at about 06:39 onwards in the video? Cheers.
If you use a #4 or larger hand plane, you can usually get a straight edge easily. If you put the bottoms together with the edges as even as you can in a vice, joint edge up, and plane both boards at the same time, you again can get them straight fairly easy. And they are not required to be exactly 90 degrees. Just fold them open and the two planed edges will match at whatever angle they are.
Up to twice of the length of the plane reliably, if you have a straightedge you trust you can use it check and to correct deviations as you proceed. .
As a quick hack, you can put a long straight edge on the table saw fence and run your boards thru. It should be long enough so that the board is always fully in contact with the straight edge.
A very quick way to do it, although not optimal, is to put a long steel/alu profile between the board and the fence. It only works though if you have 2 points on the side of the board that will make it a steady "concave" shape against the profile and not convex.
Nice job
That reminds me to get some B12 thanks for the tips
Hi Stuart. Really useful (as ever). Please can you tell me what router bit you've used and what type of track saw clamps ? Thanks.
These look similar to MicroJig's Matchfit system, but I guess Stuart's clamps are cheaper than MicroJig's.
The first one he tried looks like a Makita track clamp. Festool makes a similar one. They're both cheaper than the Microjig model. I don't know if there is any benefit to the Microjig option. The trigger clamps he actually used when cutting the straight edge could be anything.
You got to love subtitles!! 8.44 - 8.49 "....and I put in my straight cutter which is just about deep enough to be able to cut my balls, which are just under a one inch!!!!"
😆What are they doing on the table - haven't you heard of Health and Safety!! One of the best so far!!
Great ideas and a great video. Thanks.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing.
Great methods
I am that person who purchased a jointer to gather dust in the corner, its a great tool Metabo HC260C but like you say not a good use of floorspace/money. Sadly can't help myself buying tools, seems like an addiction.
Great jig. I’ve bought the makita clamps shown in the vid but my dovetail router bit is the incorrect size for the clamps (arggghhhh!). What’s the right size dovetail router bit please?
That’s me, I’m one of those amateur woodworkers that goes round in circles. But good to know it’s not just me. 😊
The method I prefer is to stick a straightedge slightly overhung on the edge that will go against the fence using double-sided tape. If I was going to do this a lot, then I might use your first method.
Stuart, nice tips thank you. Do you realise you’ve invented the Microjig Matchfit clamping system, only without the proprietary clamps?
A third option to joint the boards is to use an electric planer clamped on its side and run the boards alongside it. Even if the planer isn’t 90 degrees to the surface as long as you joint one board facing up and the other facing down they will align perfectly. There’s videos of people making a jig to hold the electric planer as well
Could you please fix that table saw down. its wobbling all over the place at 2:40
Helpful tips thanks
What kind and what size router bit are you using to make the planer jig?
Thanks, good advise. But better IMHO would be investing in a track saw with a nice long rail, you’ll wonder how you ever worked without one & it won’t gather any dust that’s for sure.
I just use a 4ft Sprit level flush along the Guide fence and push the panel through ALONG with the spirit Level, and there you have your straight edge, then just repeat with the opposite side of the panel.
I don’t have a table saw so could I use a track saw to straighten the edge
I want to make a box to go in the garden, so im not fussed about the finish. Could I just pin the board onto a straight edge, and do it that way?
Really enjoyed the video and don’t mean this to be a negative comment but if you have a track saw why not just run that along the edge instead of making the jig? Then you could run that cut edge along your table saw fence if needed. Anyway, thank you as always!
Good ole B and Q plywood 👍
I just use eucalyptus hard board. It's really thin and then use double sided woodworking tape to hold my board to that and run it though. Sketchier but it works, and on a jobsite saw you wont lose much depth..
Weres the guard on the spindle?
How many DIY'ers have a table saw and table router? Where was the saw guard and push stick?
You only need something to push the wood if your hands are going to be near the blade otherwise. It would be completely silly to try to use a push stick with a huge board.
And EVERYONE takes off the blade guard
BRAVO !!!
What about making a diy track saw guide?
I need to join two boards together but I don't have a table saw nor a table router.
What are my options?
Great video Stuart. Can you tell me is that an Evolution table you are using and is that the standard fence that comes with it? Also you used a clamp down straight edge. I have neither of these tools atm and have seen so many bad comments about the evolution saw, but yours seems accurate and not too noisey
I have the same model, it comes with the fence that was used plus an adjustable mitre jig. Note that the bit of the table to the left of the blade can also slide (once you release it) so there is no need for the mitre jig to slide in the slot.
Loved the video, what about a track saw?
Don't forget to them safety specs 👍
The offset angles is a clever idea . Good design indeed
Freehand mains powered router and that metal straight edge. Or blow 150 on Screwfix track saw...which will get used again. Done and off down the boozer.
I would just lay a square on top of the wood "close enough" by eye first within the dimensions of the crooked board, then simply clamp a straight edged guide, cut it with a circular saw, then use that now known straight cut to reference a 90* cross cut for the ends.
just use a track saw, or circular saw with a guide(long level or something)
Big hassle to set it up every time. Much quicker with a jig like this. Track saws are also very expensive.
Problem: Need to make a couple of perfectly straight cuts.
Solution: Make a jig.
Process: Make a dozen of perfectly straight cuts.
The grooves don't actually have to be exactly straight.
Nice jig
what i want to know is how did they create the first straght edge lol
1:04💀yes
👍🏼
I put two boards next to each other, then ran a router straight down the middle.
Or you can just clamp a straight edge to the board and run the router against it. One rectangular aluminium bar (or tube), a couple of good clamps, no need for a jig. Or a track saw, of course.
Your reason for not wanting a jointer is exactly the same thought that I had. If I can do what I need without an expensive piece of rarely used equipment, why buy that piece of equipment?
Thank you for your advice Stuart and moaning minnie wants to know why you arent wearing safety glasses while cutting wood?? Take care
This method reqire too much material, time and tools just to straiten two boards. Even if you cut one side free handedly as long as you have a fairly straight line, when you pushed against the fence it will cut the other side straight. If the fence is not long enough you could put a 4' or 6' level or a straight age, board whatever will do job.
That shaky table saw would drive me crazy. :(
Did I miss the part where you actually joined the boards? Maybe video should have been titled "how to cut a straight edge on an uneven board"
Nooice!
Jesus Christ died for all of our sins. He died the death we all deserved. He was the perfect one who never sinned once, but he loved us so much he decided to die for us so our sins would be paid for and we can enter the Kingdom of Heaven before God the Father blamelessly. He is the living son of God who wants to know us and have a personal relationship with us. No matter what you have done no matter how far gone you think you are Jesus can and will save you. All you have to do is confess with your mouth and believe in your heart that Jesus Christ is your Lord and Savior. Believe that he died on the cross for your sins and had a bodily resurrection 3 days later. We cannot be saved by our works but by faith in Christ alone. Repent and turn to Christ. You will have joy, happiness, love, and peace beyond understanding.
Track saw
Millimeter? What's a millimeter?
Call that a plane?
Or just a straight peace of timber with double sided tape, taped to the wobbly board to run along the fence , same principle but much quicker .
Doublesided tape?
Pain in the ass to get off the wood afterwards. At least the types I can buy are.
Those bloody stickers - they even put them on the face of 'finished' architrave/mouldings.
Thanks after using so many big tools I'd get the joiner sorry 😢
Have you seen the price of jointers - don't buy the cheap ones, I made that mistake.
You can make a perfect joiner-jig using just the table saw.
I used T-track channelled in via table saw - simple, quicker, longer-lasting more accurate than this method.
No, you do not need a jointer. Not a mortice jointer, a biscuit jointer, or any other sort. What you need is a planer. The tool in question planes wood (produces a smooth flat surface) so it is a planer. Any future use the wood is put to (like, perhaps, joining the edges together to make a wider surface) has nothing whatever to do with this tool. It is a (n optional) later operation. Following the American habit of mis-naming this tool is to be deprecated. Even worse is calling a thicknesser a planer. Its purpose is (clearly) to set the thickness of a piece of wood that has already been planed on one side. If you still cannot see the error, I have a question. I use a power hand planer to plane wood- OK? If I turn the plane upside down and move the wood over it (has been known...) is it miraculously turned into another machine? If so, at what angle of rotation does this transformation take place?
The etemology derived from the jointing plane, which was the 24-30" hand plane you'd use to prep boards to join in wide panels.
The jointer was the machine that took over the job of the jointing plane.
@@WorBlux So why not call it a jointing planer? And only if you are planeing the edges of boards. There used to be over 8 styles of hand plane (actually lots more), which have largely been replaced by two machines, the planer and the thicknesser. Often combined into one machine. Calling this after just one of those planes (or, rather, the adjective of it) is obtuse in the extreme. Why not name it after what it does? I have owned a planer/thicknesser for several years, and have NEVER used it to join boards together. it is not the sort of woodwork that I do. I am not alone. Indeed, I would bet folding money that for most users in is a minority activity. Indeed, one can argue that butting up two faces is not a joint. You may be joining them, but you are not jointing them. This video recognized this anomaly by putting joint in quotes.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop
Because jointer is shorter, and that's what everyone else in my country calls it. When you want to be real precise you do say jointing planer, but for more purposes saying jointer gets the point across.
Also if you join two things, the interface is the joint. And the act of making the joint is jointing.
And there are three main planes used to prepare stock for furniture woodwork. bench/smoother, jack/fore, jointing/try based mainly on the length of the plane body.
These are what the jointer/thicknesses planer largely replace, and these machines make 4S lumber quick easy, and a matter of course.
But when you had to do it by hand and eye, you'd never prep 4S when a single true face and edge would do just fine, and you'd never grab the big heavy jointing plane unless you were trying to true the edge of a long board, and you really only did that for a large panel glue-up.
With the jointer every piece of stock you prep gets that same accuracy even if not needed. The point is that you could join any surface off the jointer to any other with just a bit of glue. Even if a user isn't regularly taking advantage of that fact, the machine is still doing it.
@@WorBlux planer is shorter, by a letter. The interface is not the joint- see joint ownership, joint enterprise etc. it means multiple. The machine in question actually mills wood- it dimensions and regularises it. This is done in four steps; plane flat, plane square, thickness minor dimension, thickness major dimension. This requires two configurations, planer and thicknesser, those names most accurately describing the operations. Calling the dual operation version a mill would be the most accurate. 'Jointer' is clearly a name far removed from this. And any joining, jointing, or other operations are merely a possible future task. As you say, they 'prepare stock'- they do not joint!
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop
Jointer/planer is four letters and one syllable shorter than planer/thicknesser 😀
Mill is an awfully generic term though.
You could just as easily make an argument for cis-planer and trans- planer or first planer and second planer. Perhaps flatinator and parrallellizer strikes your fancy?
But the English language is an anarchy, rather than a noocracy. Jointer is what everyone in my circles call it, so jointer it is. I'd even use jointing planer/thickness planer, but if I start talking about a "planer" they are all envisioning the thickness planer, not the jointing planer.
There are far worse idiosyncrasies and oddities out there.
Where are you're safety glasses?
One downvote. Must be from the sales accounts manager of a company that sells jointers.
I thought the object of the vid, was to show how to join the boards together. My bad.
In the UK we call it a Thickness planer , Yanks call it a Jointer , let me guess you call a Pillor Drill a Drill press .
I’m almost certain you used jointer just to trigger us British folk - it’s a planer 😂
P.S put your guard back on your table saw!
Why didn’t you just plain the edge ?
No safety glasses....no circular saw blade cover?
Safety glasses would be nice