I was thinking the same thing when I kept searching for information on the tool. I took a chance because Grizzly makes great tools. Hope the information helps
@@handyhomerepairs Any chance you could make a video showing how to adjust the infeed and outfeed tables for parallel? That tends to be a major limitation of jointer/planer combos.
Ok I will have to see if they have the option to adjust. I was looking at this exact issue when I first got it to test but did not see any obvious way. There are bolts where it attaches in the side but I didn’t want to mess up the new toy. Will try
It’s all about what makes sense for your workflow and what space you have. I don’t have enough room for 2 pieces of equipment so this is what I have to work with. After some practice I make it function in combination with a good table saw to clean up the edge joints
Its obviously new, but the spiral head blades are really sharp and did not tear our the bird's eye maple which was amazing. Normally a planer or jointer will take chunks around the birds eye because it is impossible to go "with" the grain because of the swirling pattern.
When I work with some spalted maple, or just crazy figures on a planer, I have to set my planer (dewalt 735) on the finish cut speed, and I have to have the rollers BARELY move it through to take like 1/64th passes. I just keep doing that over and over and over again and I avoid tear out. I also do it at an angle. So If I have a 20" board, I'll go in corner to the left, front corner to the left, back right corner to the right - on a 5-8" board on a 12" in planer. That way I'm doing more slicing vs carving out which helps alot. For a jointer, I think if you got 12" to work with try going at an angle a bit and see if that helps.
@@thenext9537 that is a very technique, thanks! The downside to this combo planer is there is no speed adjustment like in the dewalt. So far I have done maple, white oak, and walnut and not had any significant tear out. It may be a combination of the brand new sharpness and also the small blades in the helical placement though
In theory a good idea but as with most combo tools it doesn't seem to do either function very well. I love the helical cutter head for both functions. Maybe in future models some improvements can be made. As for me I think I'll wait and take a look at next years model.
I think you are correct. There are trade offs and it may be your only option if working in a garage. I like the planer and the edge jointer. Face joining is a bit of a struggle
Snipe while jointing was really bad on mine-it was always the last 1.5 - 2 inches of a board; solution was to shim the tables-make sure to use the longest straight edge you can find-mine stretched the length of the table and with shims was able “tune” it so there was no longer snipe.
@justanotherdaytoday I have not had that issue. I noticed the snipe but I can control it by holding the board slightly when the long side is in feeding and then holding the out feed board when it is past midway. You can hold it to keep it coming out straighter and avoid those last couple inches getting pinched and the board moving up which digs the blades in.
True. I was trying a silicon spray which worked good and did not leave a residue. I can only find finishing wax which leaves residue as well. I have heard of people using wax paper from the kitchen with some brands having enough extra wax to be able to coat the surfaces. It haven’t tried it yet
Just a heads up to anyone thinking of buying one of these units. I have the G0958, which is the 8" version of the Grizzly jointer planer combo. After four hours of use the feed rollers on the planer are disintegrating, boards are sticking and there are now black streaks on everything I plane. Disconnected the unit and felt the feed rollers, very rough and bits were flaking off. I've been planing new softwood lumber. I like the size of the unit but pretty concerning that this happened after only four hours of use.
Do you not find the length of the fence and the fact that you observed flex in the fence troublesome? I think I would prefer a longer and stiffer fence.
@marshallurrell4583 yes a standup model would be better but it is sufficient for the space I have. I don’t have a dedicated workshop so being able to move the planet around is the best for me. I found edge jointing to be sufficient and then I surface plane. I then clean up with the table saw and can make perfect square boards. I have done boards up to 6 feet in length. Anything more and I think it may start getting too wobby
@edtv6453 A few people have told me that, but I can't seem to get the fence far enough out of the way to clear the dust collection. I will have to try again. thanks
Glad I went with separate machines, having to swap back and forth is kind of counter-intuitive LOL. I have room in my shop for the 2 machines so its not an issue....in a limited space situation this combo would work, but having to swap parts around would aggravate me LOL.
Thanks for doing the review, been eyeing this unit. You mentioned it clogs on the 2.5 dust port when using a shopvac. I don't have a dust collector, only a shopvac, is it really that bad? Also do the beds come coplanar, or is any adjustment needed?
The shop vac couldn’t keep up. It wasn’t clogging but the hood had quite a bit of chips. I guess you could clear it out every couple passes but the chips may start interfering or chunking out the wood. I bought the vac to keep up. The beds came coplaner. I have been testing out some of the screws to see how to adjust in the future. There are no details in the manual about it. The only documented procedures are for making the fence 90 degree or stepping for depth of cut on planer and jointer
This is correct. If you aren’t removing the chips they can get back into the cutter head and mess up the smoothness of the cut. Manual says 12” needs at least 400 cfm on the port. I had to upgrade to 4” dedicated vac to keep up
I have this same machine and have been using it for about six months with a shop vac with a 2in port with no problem. But I do have an Oneida Cyclone Separator on my shop vac and that makes a huge difference. The 5 gal bucket fills very quickly when using the planner, but it has never clogged.
Thanks for the review mate. I'm interested in one of these as I don't have 240v in the shed. I might look into an alternate to the fence or come up with a more supportive bracket.
It is perfect for the purpose I need as well. I don’t have a dedicated shop or room for a huge jointer. We make do with the tools we can fit into the space. I have made several large panels with it. When the jointer does not make a perfect edge, I clean it up on the table saw and get a smooth edge to edge joint
@jundossantos it’s pretty heavy, around 90 lbs. I have to move it around because I don’t have a shop so I put locking casters on it and push it back and forth. Probably better on a dedicated stand but we do with what we have. I made a 60 inch table with it so it’s possible to make fairly long and straight edges
@@handyhomerepairs That's crazy. I always see 6 and 8" and rarely 10". 12" is nuts. It's a helical head, but not a spiral I take it. IE, it's not like a SHELIX on a dewalt 735 (which is like 500$ just for the head, nevermind 650$ for the planer itself!).
Correct, helical with the individual “blades” and there are 28 of them. Also 4 sided so you can turn as they dull and get 4 uses. It also came with several extras.
Helical “style” is spiral head. They are trying to get people to associate the true helical with these, but it is a different product. The categories are blades, spiral, and helical. Thanks for the review.
@@michaelshelnutt3534 well said. These are multiple individual blades laid out in a “spiral” pattern. Through the nice thing is they have 4 sides, so as they dull you can give them a turn to the next sharp side. The unit also came with a tube which contained several more spares
With my unit, I never remove the fence. I just loosen the screws then slide it back and it works perfectly. You shouldn’t need to remove it - I find it a pain in the butt to redo the screws.
Interesting. I can’t slide my fence far enough out of the way to be able to get the dust collection to attach. It is a pain with the screws. I’ll have to play with it some more. Thanks.
Can you run the machine without dust collection? That would make conversion very fast, much faster than any other combo. I run my planer outside and just blow away the chips.
@@jvehent you don’t want to run without dust collection because the chips build up really quick. Especially on the planing, the chips can get between the blade and the wood and causing gouging. It’s unsafe as well to let them build up inside
I have had this same machine for about 6 months. You can loosen the fence and slide it down out of the way to attach the dust collection hood. You cannot run the unit without the hood in place, but only requires the two clips on the sides to be in place to power on. There is a thumb screw on top in the center of the table, but that is not required. It reduces the dust collection, but you can avoid taking the fence off. However, it is not much of a time savings because you have to tilt the fence down, then loose all four wing nuts to slide it down out of the way. Then you have to put it back and recheck square vs. leaving the mount in place and simply removing and then reading the four wing nuts. It is tedious, but a single machine saves a lot of space and has worked great. It is a good value for the money.
I tried this as well but that only works on the 8”. From the manual - Jointer/Planer conversion G0959 Only: Remove fence from support bracket… I actually like it better this was as well so you can keep it in square (still double check)
@Michael San Thanks. I just saw it on their video as well. I tried sliding the fence all the way back and even beveling. The fence is still at least 1/4” in the way. The manual on page 35 says take it off. Who knows, maybe they changed it after the advertisement video was made. I still prefer leaving it at 90 degrees and just taking off the 4 wing nuts
@Michael San I have a video where I made the maple table (referenced in this video). I also recently tried it on white oak with no issues. Currently making a video where I use it on some walnut. I still find the edge joint difficult for joining boards, but cleaning it up with the table saw for now. Great on face joint and planing
@TacoMania I wanted to be able to plane 12” and only wanted one tool which is why I went with the bigger one. Ended up jointing a 10” board on first project so glad I had larger capacity.
Planing 1/32” on a 10” board felt the best for the sound of the load on the motor. I did 1/16” and it went ok as well but I liked taking a little less to watch the progress and also do both sides. I accidentally did 1/8” while learning on my 10” wide maple and tripped the circuit. I was using it on a 15 amp. Switched to 20 amp circuit after that. On a smaller width board it would program be ok but general rule is not so much on each pass
Oh I understand you now. Yes, when it is fully down the planer opening measures about 6 1/4" inches from the feed table to the top. This is more than enough for the 5 1/2" of a 6x6.
The dewalt is a good planer. I have never tried the Wahuda jointer. It looks a little cheap with those extender infeed and outfeed arms that may be difficult to keep in alignment. It got decent reviews though. Also have to deal with multiple tools which is the problem with limited workshop / garage space. Thanks for the recommendation
Really good review, especially with how you improved on the initial experience. Thank you!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!
I bought this almost a year ago, it's cumbersome but great for my small shop. Once I have a bigger shop, I am definitely buying separate units.
I agree. Everything has pros and cons. We pick the best tool for what we have
Thanks for the review. I've been waiting to see a few reviews of this tool, and yours is the first I've seen (other than the one from Grizzly).
I was thinking the same thing when I kept searching for information on the tool. I took a chance because Grizzly makes great tools. Hope the information helps
@@handyhomerepairs Any chance you could make a video showing how to adjust the infeed and outfeed tables for parallel? That tends to be a major limitation of jointer/planer combos.
Ok I will have to see if they have the option to adjust. I was looking at this exact issue when I first got it to test but did not see any obvious way. There are bolts where it attaches in the side but I didn’t want to mess up the new toy. Will try
Thanks for the review. Looks like a hassle. Now I’m not so sure about this thing.
It’s all about what makes sense for your workflow and what space you have. I don’t have enough room for 2 pieces of equipment so this is what I have to work with. After some practice I make it function in combination with a good table saw to clean up the edge joints
Thank you for the effort. Great in-depth review.
Glad it was helpful!
Its obviously new, but the spiral head blades are really sharp and did not tear our the bird's eye maple which was amazing. Normally a planer or jointer will take chunks around the birds eye because it is impossible to go "with" the grain because of the swirling pattern.
When I work with some spalted maple, or just crazy figures on a planer, I have to set my planer (dewalt 735) on the finish cut speed, and I have to have the rollers BARELY move it through to take like 1/64th passes. I just keep doing that over and over and over again and I avoid tear out. I also do it at an angle. So If I have a 20" board, I'll go in corner to the left, front corner to the left, back right corner to the right - on a 5-8" board on a 12" in planer. That way I'm doing more slicing vs carving out which helps alot. For a jointer, I think if you got 12" to work with try going at an angle a bit and see if that helps.
@@thenext9537 that is a very technique, thanks! The downside to this combo planer is there is no speed adjustment like in the dewalt. So far I have done maple, white oak, and walnut and not had any significant tear out. It may be a combination of the brand new sharpness and also the small blades in the helical placement though
In theory a good idea but as with most combo tools it doesn't seem to do either function very well. I love the helical cutter head for both functions. Maybe in future models some improvements can be made. As for me I think I'll wait and take a look at next years model.
I think you are correct. There are trade offs and it may be your only option if working in a garage. I like the planer and the edge jointer. Face joining is a bit of a struggle
Snipe while jointing was really bad on mine-it was always the last 1.5 - 2 inches of a board; solution was to shim the tables-make sure to use the longest straight edge you can find-mine stretched the length of the table and with shims was able “tune” it so there was no longer snipe.
@justanotherdaytoday I have not had that issue. I noticed the snipe but I can control it by holding the board slightly when the long side is in feeding and then holding the out feed board when it is past midway. You can hold it to keep it coming out straighter and avoid those last couple inches getting pinched and the board moving up which digs the blades in.
paste wax not wd40. oil gets soaked into the wood and can show during a finish.
True. I was trying a silicon spray which worked good and did not leave a residue. I can only find finishing wax which leaves residue as well. I have heard of people using wax paper from the kitchen with some brands having enough extra wax to be able to coat the surfaces. It haven’t tried it yet
Thanks for posting this, it helped a lot.
Just a heads up to anyone thinking of buying one of these units. I have the G0958, which is the 8" version of the Grizzly jointer planer combo. After four hours of use the feed rollers on the planer are disintegrating, boards are sticking and there are now black streaks on everything I plane. Disconnected the unit and felt the feed rollers, very rough and bits were flaking off. I've been planing new softwood lumber. I like the size of the unit but pretty concerning that this happened after only four hours of use.
Thanks for the information. I have not seen that issue with mine yet.
Do you not find the length of the fence and the fact that you observed flex in the fence troublesome? I think I would prefer a longer and stiffer fence.
@marshallurrell4583 yes a standup model would be better but it is sufficient for the space I have. I don’t have a dedicated workshop so being able to move the planet around is the best for me. I found edge jointing to be sufficient and then I surface plane. I then clean up with the table saw and can make perfect square boards. I have done boards up to 6 feet in length. Anything more and I think it may start getting too wobby
You don't have to remove the fence. It should slide to the far end of the jointer away from the dust collection.
@edtv6453 A few people have told me that, but I can't seem to get the fence far enough out of the way to clear the dust collection. I will have to try again. thanks
I appreciate your review, then you blew me away using my favorite Birdseye Maple!!!
Thank you. I have never worked with birdseye maple so I was worried but the tool was so gentle with it that I was impressed
The fence is supposed to fold back out of the way. without taking it off.
I don’t think you supposed to take the fence off. Just lean it to 45 degrees per the promo video
Glad I went with separate machines, having to swap back and forth is kind of counter-intuitive LOL. I have room in my shop for the 2 machines so its not an issue....in a limited space situation this combo would work, but having to swap parts around would aggravate me LOL.
Yes, separate machines are better. I just adjust the workflow so I don’t have to got back and forth in modes multiple times
How does the fence install on the side of unit?
There is a brackets attached to the side with a 90* connection point. The screws slide in the circular adjustment area to change the angle
Thanks for doing the review, been eyeing this unit. You mentioned it clogs on the 2.5 dust port when using a shopvac. I don't have a dust collector, only a shopvac, is it really that bad? Also do the beds come coplanar, or is any adjustment needed?
The shop vac couldn’t keep up. It wasn’t clogging but the hood had quite a bit of chips. I guess you could clear it out every couple passes but the chips may start interfering or chunking out the wood. I bought the vac to keep up.
The beds came coplaner. I have been testing out some of the screws to see how to adjust in the future. There are no details in the manual about it. The only documented procedures are for making the fence 90 degree or stepping for depth of cut on planer and jointer
you really should use good dust collection with most planers IMHO. better for the machine and better planed surfaces
This is correct. If you aren’t removing the chips they can get back into the cutter head and mess up the smoothness of the cut. Manual says 12” needs at least 400 cfm on the port. I had to upgrade to 4” dedicated vac to keep up
I have this same machine and have been using it for about six months with a shop vac with a 2in port with no problem. But I do have an Oneida Cyclone Separator on my shop vac and that makes a huge difference. The 5 gal bucket fills very quickly when using the planner, but it has never clogged.
Thanks for the review mate. I'm interested in one of these as I don't have 240v in the shed. I might look into an alternate to the fence or come up with a more supportive bracket.
It is perfect for the purpose I need as well. I don’t have a dedicated shop or room for a huge jointer. We make do with the tools we can fit into the space. I have made several large panels with it. When the jointer does not make a perfect edge, I clean it up on the table saw and get a smooth edge to edge joint
Very good review.
Thanks for watching.
It comes with wheels?
No. I tapped holes on the bottom and add some screw in locking casters. I have to move it in and out from my garage and it’s too heavy to carry.
This looks a lot bigger than I thought it would be. How heavy is it?
@jundossantos it’s pretty heavy, around 90 lbs. I have to move it around because I don’t have a shop so I put locking casters on it and push it back and forth. Probably better on a dedicated stand but we do with what we have. I made a 60 inch table with it so it’s possible to make fairly long and straight edges
12” jointer? Crazy. 120v 15a power draw, same as my dewalt 735 basically.
Yeah and helical head and 4 cutter faces. Super sharp and didn’t tear up birdseye maple which was surprising. Happy with it so far.
@@handyhomerepairs That's crazy. I always see 6 and 8" and rarely 10". 12" is nuts. It's a helical head, but not a spiral I take it. IE, it's not like a SHELIX on a dewalt 735 (which is like 500$ just for the head, nevermind 650$ for the planer itself!).
Correct, helical with the individual “blades” and there are 28 of them. Also 4 sided so you can turn as they dull and get 4 uses. It also came with several extras.
Helical “style” is spiral head. They are trying to get people to associate the true helical with these, but it is a different product. The categories are blades, spiral, and helical. Thanks for the review.
@@michaelshelnutt3534 well said. These are multiple individual blades laid out in a “spiral” pattern. Through the nice thing is they have 4 sides, so as they dull you can give them a turn to the next sharp side. The unit also came with a tube which contained several more spares
With my unit, I never remove the fence. I just loosen the screws then slide it back and it works perfectly. You shouldn’t need to remove it - I find it a pain in the butt to redo the screws.
Interesting. I can’t slide my fence far enough out of the way to be able to get the dust collection to attach. It is a pain with the screws. I’ll have to play with it some more. Thanks.
Can you run the machine without dust collection? That would make conversion very fast, much faster than any other combo. I run my planer outside and just blow away the chips.
@@jvehent I don’t believe you can it without the dust collector efficiently. A simple Ridgid dust collector should suffice.
@@jvehent you don’t want to run without dust collection because the chips build up really quick. Especially on the planing, the chips can get between the blade and the wood and causing gouging. It’s unsafe as well to let them build up inside
I have had this same machine for about 6 months. You can loosen the fence and slide it down out of the way to attach the dust collection hood. You cannot run the unit without the hood in place, but only requires the two clips on the sides to be in place to power on. There is a thumb screw on top in the center of the table, but that is not required. It reduces the dust collection, but you can avoid taking the fence off. However, it is not much of a time savings because you have to tilt the fence down, then loose all four wing nuts to slide it down out of the way. Then you have to put it back and recheck square vs. leaving the mount in place and simply removing and then reading the four wing nuts. It is tedious, but a single machine saves a lot of space and has worked great. It is a good value for the money.
You don’t have to take the fence off. Tilt and slide to far end (front)
I tried this as well but that only works on the 8”. From the manual - Jointer/Planer conversion G0959 Only: Remove fence from support bracket…
I actually like it better this was as well so you can keep it in square (still double check)
@@handyhomerepairs 👍
@Michael San Thanks. I just saw it on their video as well. I tried sliding the fence all the way back and even beveling. The fence is still at least 1/4” in the way. The manual on page 35 says take it off. Who knows, maybe they changed it after the advertisement video was made. I still prefer leaving it at 90 degrees and just taking off the 4 wing nuts
@Michael San I have a video where I made the maple table (referenced in this video). I also recently tried it on white oak with no issues. Currently making a video where I use it on some walnut. I still find the edge joint difficult for joining boards, but cleaning it up with the table saw for now. Great on face joint and planing
Undecided between the 8 or 12. From a price point the 8 is almost half with shipping. Is it worth going with the 12? Thanks!
Also what's the max thickness to plane?
@TacoMania I wanted to be able to plane 12” and only wanted one tool which is why I went with the bigger one. Ended up jointing a 10” board on first project so glad I had larger capacity.
Planing 1/32” on a 10” board felt the best for the sound of the load on the motor. I did 1/16” and it went ok as well but I liked taking a little less to watch the progress and also do both sides. I accidentally did 1/8” while learning on my 10” wide maple and tripped the circuit. I was using it on a 15 amp. Switched to 20 amp circuit after that. On a smaller width board it would program be ok but general rule is not so much on each pass
@Handy Home Repairs thank you for the feedback! Just to clarify on my planer question, would I be able to run a 4x4 in the planer? Or even a 6x6?
Oh I understand you now. Yes, when it is fully down the planer opening measures about 6 1/4" inches from the feed table to the top. This is more than enough for the 5 1/2" of a 6x6.
Never use any kind of lubrication. It soaked into the wood and it will ruin your finish, especially silicone.
Wahuda 10 inch jointer + Dewalt DW735X > Grizzly G0959
The dewalt is a good planer. I have never tried the Wahuda jointer. It looks a little cheap with those extender infeed and outfeed arms that may be difficult to keep in alignment. It got decent reviews though.
Also have to deal with multiple tools which is the problem with limited workshop / garage space. Thanks for the recommendation
Drink some water my friend
Next narration I will keep water by my side lol
Not a very good sample of wood to demonstrate planing with.
why don't you think it is a good sample? It is very delicate with the Birds Eye features and I was surprised how well it planed without tearing.