Thank you for the info. My 2017 Silverado wouldn't crank and left me stranded at work. Your info prompted me to investigate and I found that the connector for the solenoid was broken off! due to corrosion. I was able to jump the connection with my Power Probe (you could use a piece of wire or jumper cable, but have to be very careful not to short it to the frame or engine) and activate the solenoid... got it started and made it home. The 90 degree connector is held on with a little screw on the solenoid underneath a round plastic and foil heat shield... I cut off the plug and used a ring terminal to connect right to the solenoid... just like they used to do. It's lower than the power cable, further away from the exhaust, so I don't think heat will be an issue. Easy fix, saved me $200 for a starter (or worse... towing to the dealer) and I didn't need to remove the starter to do it. Just wanted to share in case someone else runs into the same thing. Removing the wheel and inner fender is pretty much a necessity, but I was able to apply power to get it started to get it home with the inner fender on. The inner fender screws are T15 and the solenoid connector is 8mm. Hope this helps somebody.
Thanks for sharing your video. I had the same issue with my 2017 Silverado. The frame was sprayed with the rust corrosion tar junk and that was keeping the ground wire from providing a good connection. Removed the rust corrosion tar junk, sanded the area and reinstalled the ground wire. Started right up. You saved me a ton of money!
Good to hear, I’m having the same issue with my 2017 Silverado currently. When I banged the starter with a hammer to fire it up sparks were shooting, so I’m assuming I’m having the same problem with a bad ground connection? Gonna try this tomorrow!
Thank you for this video! Followed everything you did for a 2015 Silverado. Brought the starter to autozone. Passed. Cleaned the grounds and cleaned the terminals on the solenoid. Corrosion on the terminals. Re-installed and now its starting great. Please keep posting videos.
Thanks for this video. Unfortunately, I went through the process you showed before finding your video. My issue on my 2017 Silverado is constant dirt/corrosion on the positive battery connector to the starter. When I get the click, I clean the wire connector with a wire brush and it solves the problem. Everyone should try to troubleshoot these items before pulling the starter out to save time and effort.
A friend of mine is having the same issue on his 14 Sierra. I’m going to show him your video. You did a great job on the video and it will help many. Thanks for posting
J D thanks, have him check the post that links the solenoid and starter motor. I had bad corrosion where the washer rotted and the connection was lose causing arcing
Thank you! After traveling 250 miles with family stopped to get fuel and went to start up the 2014 silverado it would not turn over. Pulled up your video and instantly checked the frame ground. Cleaned it and bam truck started! Appreciated the help!
Thank you for sharing, my 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado had/has the same issue, it’ll eventually start up, sometimes on the 10th crank, and some times on the 100th crank. I’ve done the same procedure 6-8months ago. everything worked fine up until yesterday 6-8 months after doing everything in this clip, the problem has returned, so I’m about to run through everything again in hopes it’ll work the second time around. The area that I live in has horrible winter road conditions and it beats up and causes mass corrosion on all vehicles. I stopped in to see if any one has figured out anything new or has found the actual reason for this issue or better yet a more permanent fix. If I find anything new or do something different that works I’ll be sure to give an update in hopes it can help someone else and save them from pounding their head against the wall and also save some money haha
Check the connection off the solenoid terminal to starter. Prone to corrosion you can’t see. May need to remove nut and clean the stud, new washers etc. mine has been doing fine since this video was posted
@watsonswagons is yours still running and starting ok? I did what you suggested, it worked. Then a few weeks later i had lights flashing, alternator was making a humming and I had to get the alternator replaced. All was good for about 3 weeks, then lots of issues since. I tried removing some of the sound deadening under the dash that a couple other guys have posted videos about. I’m about at my wits end. When it gets no power, I’ll recede the positive and the negative and it’ll start and then (the most recent thing) I’ll drive it and it’ll die if I turn or something that pulls more power. Then i have to recede the cables again. So just curious if yours is still running well if you still have it. @jojojoseph did you find a solution for yours?
@@robholcomb1803 I had similar issues late last summer (having no crank no start issues now) and what fixed it for me was replacing the battery ground cable that he shows earlier in the video. Getting to the engine ground is a pain in the ass but replacing that whole cable solved a ton of issues, particularly total power loss and hard steering at low speeds. Later today I need to pull the starter and get that tested. We need a silverado owners therapy group or something.
The ground is made at the threads instead of matting on the frame to reduce corrosion. The bare spot and threads need to be protected with undercoating material
You found your problem and apparently didn't realize it. At 4:10 when you touched the positive cable and had 12.68v but the stud should have had the same voltage but you said it hardly had anything. That was a bad connection, you probably could have loosened off the nut and tightened it up again and had a good enough connection which is essentially what you ended up doing when you removed the started and reinstalled it.
Curious if you’ve seen this before. I’m about to crawl under my truck and do a voltage test on starter/battery connector. It’d be interesting if this is a common problem. I’m not losing power to my dash. Just a click, which makes me wonder if starter or bad or battery connection is corroded.
Thanks for this video again. I had this issue last year and this is how it was resolved. NOW it's back. One year later I'm watching this video again and I'm going to remove the 1,000 bolts from the inner fender so I can repeat it. 😭😅
You did a great job fixing your (No-start) issue, I've seen plenty of videos with people who drive the Sierra or Silverado manufactured from 2014 on up with electrical problems stemming from the body ground. I have the 2015 Silverado and sometimes when I apply the brakes, I notice my headlights dim a little, I am glad you posted your video, so what I am gonna do on a nice day, is cleanup all of my ground contacts, as a preventive maintenance for my truck.
@Sinaloacosala, Thank God, yes I finally got the problem resolved, it involved a couple of things gone wrong, there is a ground wire that's underneath the front passenger side on the frame of my truck that was corroded, so I cleaned it with a wire brush and applied Die-electric grease and re-mounted it. The next step was taking my truck to the dealer and they informed me that my motor mounts failed, and it was grounding out the engine, luckily it was still under warranty, so they replaced them free of charge. Again thank God, I haven't had any issues with my truck since the repair. The Main Culprit was the (motor mounts), it can cause the engine to misfire in cylinder 8 & 4, causing a rough engine idle, once they diagnose if you have the same issue and make the repairs you should be good. I hope this answer your question and help you get a general idea of what may be wrong with your truck, it's a headache, but be persistent with the dealer, don't accept their excuse that it's normal, God Bless and stay safe, please let me know how everything work out...
I also have a video that I uploaded a while back, recorded on my dash camera, showing the technician at the dealership discovering the problem as he is running what is called a (Pico-Scope), and you clearly hear his negative response as he reads the results of the test..
Literally just had this happen. Then when I got the truck started I had a bunch of codes saying "service 4WD, service trailer brake, service power steering, service stabilitrak, service brake assist" and my truck went into like a limp mode where the rpms had to be about 2200 before the truck would even move. Torque converter shudder the whole 9 yards. A few hours later it started and drove fine but had a check engine light. Dealership diagnosed it as a bad negative cable. Saying it was having voltage drop from the negative battery terminal. They said my aftermarket stereo could be the culprit too. I'm gonna start with this, they wanted $350 to change the cable. After watching this video I definitely know my dad and I could fix this in the driveway. Thanks for the helpful video man. Love this truck but man it's been a headache since I've owned it in January.
@@ricardotovar5549 well what happened to me was I had the range afm disabler plug in. I bought it used. It must have needed a software update because I cleared the codes and had the range updated and haven’t had any issues. I never did have to fix anything else for that issue.
I like my 03. 400,000 miles & still strong.ill drive it til it pops then ill put another engine in it & keep on driving it & hand it down to my son.it will live forever!!!!
Thank you for the video. I had a similar problem. 1st time I was able to tap several times on the starter and "unstick" the "bad spot" in it, I was able to drive home and replaced the failing starter 4 months later. I've heard that removing the starter and giving the shaft a slight turn can occasionally work too on a "bad spot". Last night I was driving in freezing rain and slush snow. This morning the starter would only "click" I placed a small electric heater under the starter in -5 degree temps. In 30 minutes it has thawed out and started great. I assume moisture or condensation was in the starter and it froze up. I would recommend checking the battery and all the connections 1st.
2014 Chevy Silverado and same issue! Why GM made the grounds they did is crazy. Also have one underneath your driver side dash that you can clean. Replaced battery and alternator and still had same issue go to crank and no power. Clean all the grounds and check your starter. My truck has 146,000 miles on it. Love the Chevy truck but location of grounds needs to improve. Great video
A deeper problem is the post coming off of the starter to the solenoid. Basically a strap mounted to a stud had lots of corrosion on it. I had to clean all that off and put fresh washers in. It was arcing, and that arching caused the system to shut down.
Flight Skool Double check the connection between the starter and solenoid I had a lot of corrosion where that stuff is and had to take that portion apart clean it and put a new washer on. It was arcing in the moment the arc happens the system shut down.
Flight Skool don’t break the clip on the power that plugs into the side of the starter. That harness will fall loose on its own if you break it, ask me how I know?
@@WatsonsWagons Thank You!!! Same problem here up in Canada. Watched where the power leaves the solenoid and sure enough it was arcing causing a short. Cleaned it up and no more arcing! Great video!
Interesting, how the act fixed the issue. All good though. Will keep this in mind if that happens to my 2017 HC. Also check the fuses on the driver's side, another viewer had them all partly out and caused the same issue. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
I had the exact same issue. Cleaned the ground you mentioned and still same issue. I ended up replacing the starter which has solved the one click issue when starting my 18' Silverado (my trucks starter went bad at only 40k miles, not impressed GM !!!)
Have a 2018 Chevy Silverado---Started having a no start problem about 2 weeks ago. I had driven my truck, came back to my house and needed to leave an hr later and it wouldn't start. Thought maybe just my youngest son hit a interior light on or maybe I didn't close my door all the way. I jumped the truck and didn't have any issues for another couple of days. Had the truck not wanting to start those couple of days later but also thought, due to being between my old job and new job, I wasn't running the vehicle to keep it charged and then having the intermittent cold spells/weather maybe just a the battery. Well the problem has only gotten worse. I had to jump the truck one morning prior to work and starting at my new job. Went to work and was at Human Resources for about 2 hours. Truck started no issues. Left and went to my work place, couple of miles away. Was there to finish out my work day about another 5 hrs, truck never had a problem starting. Left work, stopped briefly at a TSC store, went in for literally 1 minute as they didn't have what I needed, came back out to start my truck and only clicked once. Thankfully an individual gave me a jumpstart. Now, will occasionally start but moreso just experiencing a 'one click' response when trying to start. We've done (my husband and I) everything from cleaning the ground wire to the frame, to cleaning the battery terminals, to checking all the fuses under the hood and on the driver's door panel area, just browsed them to make sure none looked blown and made sure all snug in their spots, switched the starter relay temporarily with the trailering (as we seen on RUclips), attempted neutral start, replaced the battery, checked voltage under a load, had the starter checked at AutoZone and it passed, after trying to tap it for potential "flat spot." Sometimes it will start when being jumped from electric battery charger or my husband's truck. Doesn't usually start right away but may take a couple attempts. Usually just clicks once and then nothing until after attempting several starts and then it will fire up. We will run it around, attempt a restart, sometimes it will restart a couple times, recheck 30 minutes to an hr later and will only click once. Before we un-installed the starter...we did happen to find the positive cable to the starter was arcing. Wrapped with electrical tape then tiger patch muffler tape since so close to the manifold. Didn't resolve the problem. Removed the starter and had it tested, which I said above and was told it's good and was given the report. Reinstalled the starter and my truck started right up. I ran it about 30 minutes while we reassembled the truck, putting back in the inner wheel wall, tire...and ran it out my driveway and road...about 2 miles. Came back. Turned off the truck. Had 3 successful back to back starts ..thought maybe we fixed the issue..tried to restart about 30 minutes later and only the click again. All the lights, etc do and always have worked when attempting to start. Also noticed on the dash panel that it says "CAL." We read in the owners manual that that only has something to do with the navigation system though and it goes away once we run it. So, my question to anyone...what in the world do we do?? Do you think we should replace the starter even though we are being told it's good? Replace that positive cable to the starter because it showed signs of being arced (which we incidentally found working on the truck at night)? Replace both? Just have it towed? I bought this truck hoping I wouldn't have car issues and it seems to be a headache since I've bought it! I really need this vehicle for work as my husband and I are sharing 1 vehicle for work and we work in 2 different counties about 40 minutes from each other!
Some of these have a ghost (rare event) where some systems do not shut all of the way off (HMI, Radio, etc) when leaving the car. It is rare. But, when it does, the battery is completely discharged. Completely discharging the battery can result in random issues when replaced. After replacing a dead battery, it is always to hook up to the OBD and look at all of the results and then clear them before proceeding. Also, it is good to periodically check the OBD for hidden problems and clear them. If needed, phone based OBD software can create a report prior to clearing the messages to allow you to keep a permanent record. The new models are like babies, they need lots of checkups and health tracking. My favorite is OBDLink MX+ and for programming updates VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win Diagnostic Programming System for GM/Opel Version. New GM updates (calibrations) occur for about the first five years. Lots of the calibrations are based on customer feedback where the limit based checking system needs the limits expanded a bit prior to throwing an error or shutting something off. Good luck! Almost forgot. ACDelco has recalls on bad batteries. I found I had one of those installed by a dealer. The bad news is that the recall was months before the dealer installed the battery. Of course, the battery died in less than two years. Battery engineers need to remember to leave a space at the bottom for debris to build up from the charge cycles. If not, when the debris touches the bottom of the plates, the battery becomes useless. These are all old problems that keep recurring as each generation of employees start work without gaining all of the value from an apprenticeship program.
I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 58000 approximate miles that had/may still have (not sure) a similar issue. First no start, tested battery and got 12.7. AAA showed up and were able to jump the truck. Drove it to a buddies auto shop and installed a new interstate green top battery. Truck started and I went on my way. About a week later I had a no start again. I was able to jump the new battery and took it to the stealership. They advised it was the little four inch positive battery cable. $119 later and I'm out of there with a new cable and the old one in my pocket. 36 hours later, no start. AAA came and tried to jump with no luck. Truck towed to stealership where it was determined that I must have a new starter installed. Because of the GM strike, no starters available on the east coast (Maine to Florida) to be had by me for the fix. Stealership used a NAPA starter and I was back on the road. 6 days later I had a no start again. AAA came by and decided to smack the new starter with a hammer just in case the aftermarket starter was hung up. While attempting to smack the starter a wire was discovered hanging down. It was the starter solenoid wire. Note - After market starters require the connection really be jammed on there tight. I elected to have the vehicle towed to the stealership again to remedy this issue... my problem but theirs too. After they jammed the wire on there no issues for a couple of weeks until two days ago when I was out renting a trailer to haul the Harley and there was yet again a no start. AAA came, observed as I did that there was current on the dash but no click under the hood. They towed the truck to the stealership who after locking the keys in the truck jumped the truck and advised that they believe the battery could have a shifted or bad cell. I drove home and charged the still new battery to full then float. No issues yet. Will update all if there's another no start. May do the battery isolator and second battery in the future as well as the ground thing Watson's Wagons discovered. Best wishes folks.
David Vaughan geez, I had another failure and it was 2 things, small wire connection between starter and solenoid. So much corrosion the act of starting just simply arched. The washer and nut on the solenoid were toast. This video shows the rust and funk. So I took that apart, cleaned surfaces and used a fresh nut and washer. Also had a broken tab on the solenoid wire, vibrated loose. I could reach in with my left arm and reinstall the wire. So I took a few hours to permanently attach the wire with zip ties. Haven’t had a problem since.
Having same problem with 2017. Yesterday, we Tested volts from batt to starter: 12. Then post and nut at starter: 2.00. We tightened nut and it went up above 7.00. It started right away. Tightened nut more, tested at 12.00. Tried starting this morning: just a click. I’ll try cleaning connection. This is the last GM vehicle I will ever buy.
Great Video. Same exact thing happened to me on a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT. Although my starter was replaced a few months back, I went back and cleaned the ground wire under the wheel well shroud and believe it could have been the buckle clip was loose on mine. The red security clip also broke first time around and after putting it back on property, I used a small zip tie to secure it on snuggly just enough it won't come loose again and then replaced the heat shield bucket cover. Job Well done on the video and very helpful ‼️
So this started to happen to my truck changed battery new starter got the starter installed at dealership was working awesome for 4-5months and I’m back to the same. She can start right up drive her to the store in and out 10min. No start takes a few tries for it to start up it clicks clicks clicks until it starts up but has trouble starting up. Any help on this?? Thank
Do the dash lights go out when it doesn’t start? Check the short stud coming off the solenoid that connects the starter. That stud, washers and get corrosion and cause arching.
@@erikmendoza8641 strange. I went to jack mine up to check the ground wire and kind of gave it a hard wiggle while it was in the air and said for shyts and giggles let me try to crank it and it crunk up and is now cranking. I didn’t replace anything only wiggled the wires. How long do you think this will last? It’s running and cranking with no problems again like before it started doing that
2017 had the same issues with the starter.Did the same exact same thing you did and it started. Thanks for the info. Well after it didn't start again .....i ended up replacing the starter.
When you tested the starter wire going to the starter and it showed 12.6 and a stud show nothing it was the connection between the battery wire going to the starter and a stud. All you needed to do was take the nut off the battery cable and clean the cable and put the nut back on.
Electrical stuff drives me nuts ,Iam having same trouble with the 08 Silverado .It seems to have started with short in Drivers headlight .One click nothing when I turn key .Iam cleaning all grounds and connections. Thanks for video .Really good learned alot .👍
@@cbuschjr Mine Turned out to be a bad Battery ! I Bought a new one that was defective , it drove me nuts . Finally had It checked and replaced ! Good Luck with yours .
@@cbuschjr Sounds like a short some where for sure . Iam horrible with electric .I was close to taking it to a mechanic that could run it down .I never dreamed a new Battery could be bad .Anyway good luck sorry couldnt help more .✌
I broke the red clip on the starter connector as well. Did u ever have any other issues with it? I had nothing left on the red clip so I plugged it in and wrapped with tape.
Yes but there was another problem that I discovered it was the post that leads from the solenoid to the starter. It’s sort of a flat mesh connection with a couple of washers and a nut that sends power from the solenoid to the starter motor that area was arcing due to corrosion I had to take that apart cleaned it and put new washers in a nut on there so check that area for looseness
@@WatsonsWagons thank you. Im about to take my 2016 apart for this click and try to get in there and this really helps. I did the battery Sunday and thought I was good but I was wrong. I really appreciate it
Same issues , no start , cleaned all grounds even the ones at both ends of the top of the dash , New battery , Alt , the shop put in a new starter relay , work for to weeks , seems if i take the Neg battery wire off it seems to Reboot and starts , voltage stays about 14, have a Blue Driver code reader says of one of the fixes may be a new battery cable , think i try this first , thanks for sharing
My 14 just started doing this. When I let it sit and cool down it starts right up. I’ve heard the starter gets to hot. The replacement starter from Gm is different than the original. But I don’t know that this is the problem I have yet to replace anything
My 2007 silverado 1500 is making the same click. tested the starter and it is fine. I noticed it dose not realize that it is in park and I need to slightly push the shifter back and I am able to start it. Not sure where i need to look to fix this.
Watson have you had issues after this. I have had this issue 3 time in the past 2.5 months. I think through research they say it is the ecm/ computer. Keeping the battery disconnected drains the electrical system and resests the computer. Last Friday 2/5/21 I went to leave work and it happened. This time I quickly disconnected the battery both sides then connected the negative and positive cables together to quickly drain the system with the headlight knob on manual on to keep an open circuit flowing. I waited 20 min for system to completely drain and re connected. At that point the computer reset and started first crank.
2014 High Country, same problem. SOMETIMES, it won't start on the first try, second try, third try... but about the 10th, 11th, 12th try it starts right up. I haven't been stranded yet. My instinct is that wet conditions play a factor for my problem.
This morning I started my 2014 GMC SLE at -18 C and after the 10 min warmup on the key fob it would not start so outside in the freezing cold and the dash lights light up but no crank. Not even a click. I put in a new battery just on spec 2 months ago and checked connections. Seemed good. So throw a charger on it and checked it and there was 12.8 volts. Tried after a bit and nothing. Volts back up a bit. Disconnected battery checked posts and all good and clean. I read on here about smacking the alternator so I got out the small ball peen hammer and damn if it didn’t work. Alternator is putting out 14.22 at the batter and at the fuses and to the alternator it’s 14.11 volts. I am getting amperage out of the alternator and it’s charging.. Its too cold outside so when I can get it into a garage or springtime I have to check those grounds.. It started all day downtown:: Good video
@@KaylTingley-b1r check the link between the starter motor and solenoid and see if it’s heavily corroded. After this video I had the problem again and cleaned and replaced the nuts and washers on the solenoid post. Mine was arching with loose connections
just bought a 2014 silverado 1500 about 2 months ago with 80,000 miles on it and drove beautiful for the first month. now i’m having this same issue. the truck will start if i hadn’t drove it in hours, but if i went to get gas or something and had to turn it off and back on, it won’t start and it does that same thing, cabin lighting, headlights radio everything turns on but i can’t get the truck to start. battery and alternator tested good at multiple different places i brought it, so when they ran a diagnostic last week they found it was the starter that was the issue and replaced it. truck ran great for 2 days and now i’m back to it not starting again. what do i do?
@@rudyynostrosa3421 thank you! i had some loose connections for my ignition switch, replaced them and haven’t had the problem since. if it happens again i’ll keep this in mind!
I have a 2014. Every 3 or 4 months when I start my truck, nothing comes on. Goes completely dead. But when I unhooked the negative battery cable for 20 seconds and hook it back it starts right up. What could that problem be? Plus I have a new battery. But the positive cable and the little box that its connected to on top of the battery doesn't fit right on it.
Did your radio have any erratic entry into browse mode when you started dealing with this issue? Mine started with the radio and is now giving me this same electrical headache.
I have the same issue and then it just clicks. I have to start it from underneath the truck by touching the positive to the solenoid. So damn aggravating. Can't find the solution
It happened again a month later, discovered the terminal on the solenoid that the starter hooks to had rotted nuts and washers. When starting it caused arching and that was enough for the system to recognize and shut off. I cleaned the terminals and replaced the nuts and washers. Coated the connections with liquid electrical tape. Haven’t had a problem yet
Were you also having a problem with it turning the vehicle off randomly and also the vehicle engaging the theft deterrent system when it was going off? My 2014 silverado seems to be having a similar problem and I'm trying to figure this out before dumping a ton of cash into it. Twice when it didn't start, it actually drained 100% of power from the truck as well and I had to jump it to get it going.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair turned out after chasing grounds it was a combination of bad negative wire to the battery and the ground behind the speaker on the driver's side under the windshield.
I had the same problem on Monday & replaced my battery, everything was fine Tuesday during the day, & then suddenly the problem came back. I turn the key over & it just clicks. The alternator seems to be fine it shows 14.8.. I'm thinking it could possibly be the starter.
Miguel Rizo i found my connection between the starter motor and solenoid loose and corroded. Also The wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch off lose
Yes, the stud nut and washer coming off the solenoid needed to be cleaned and a new nut and washer installed. Corrosion was causing arching and the issue returned. Fixed it and has been perfect ever since
My 2015 Silverado is doing this rightnow, my battery is reading good volts, all I did was take off starter and took it to get tested like you did I put it back on and turned on I used it for a couple days, now today it didn’t want to start
Jacob Villasana did you check the tightness of the connection between the solenoid and starter? I found a corroded washer, the connection was loose and arching. The moment it arch’s the dash Will go blank. Pull it and check, I had to clean contacts and replace the nut and washer
I think i have this issue it just tested bad from oreilly while i was having a battery, alt test.. I crawled under and saw alot of condensation from my AC dripping down in that area might try this
My 2015 Chevy truck intermittently does that same thing. I can’t find anything wrong. I can unhook battery then hook it up awhile later and it’s all good for awhile 😳. Great video. Oh and mine doesn’t even click the solenoid!!!
My 2014 sierra does the same thing when i pull my trailer. The extra power for trailer light make my ground cable get hot. wait till it cool down and crank back up
The starter wasnt making a good connection somewhere, when you took itt off and put it on you cleaned the posts and completed the connection, had to have been.
It turned out to be the post between the starter and the built-in solenoid. It was rotted out. I cleaned it put new washers on it, and I haven’t had a problem since this video.
Did you check the neutral safety switch? It's the one part in the starting system that will allow everything to work when the key's on and not send power to the starter solenoid (via the fuse, start relay and PCM). My 2016 has this problem and it's "fixed" by turning the key to on and shifting the truck from park to neutral and back to park, then starting the engine.
My truck won't start now. These 14 Silverados been nothing but one problem after another and Chevy didn't stand behind any of it..they should make it right with us all. I'm very hesitant to buy another chevy again now. So did it give you any more problems?
The second problem I found was corrosion where the starter solenoid connection meets the starter that little short jumper. It was arcing on the stud, and I had to replace washers and nuts. That arc was enough to make everything go dead.
mine does the same after i drive for more than 30 minutes turn it off it wont start until it cools down for more than an 25-20 minutes. i can drive it all day as long as it dosent turn off. not sure what it is.
Ironically my 2015 Silverado had the same problem that started just the other day. July 2nd to be exact. I fixed it the same way you did. My ground was actually good, however there was one corroded connection from the solenoid to the starter. It didn't look too terrible but some corrosion, and now it starts every time after cleaning that up. Only 5 years and under 60K miles and this was an issue. If it happens again, I'll probably clean up the connections and then cover them with liquid electrical tape when I put it all back together.
Very helpful! You definitely had a bad connection at the starter positive lead... Working on a 2018 tomorrow that's a no crank. Dealership already replaced the starter TWICE. Owner gave up on the dealership.
Grounds grounds grounds before you buy anything check all the grounds there's probly at least 8 on the front of your truck and on the inside check them all
Dielectric grease is an "insulater". Bad choice for protecting a ground. Better choice would be CONDUCTIVE grease, such as common, copper or nickel based ANTI SEIZE.
Tod DeSonia I found the connection between the starter and solenoid works itself loose also developed corrosion and causes it to ARC. I cleaned up this part of the connection and put a new nut and washer on and it’s been working perfect ever since
yep sounds like you have a bad ground or bad connection to ground. my 2010 did the samer thing, 3 secs with a 240 grit disc on an air sander and it runs great even after 3 months
Have you ran into this problem since cleaning the connections? My 2014 Silverado is doing the same exact thing - brand new battery, alternator is good. I’ll leave it for 30 mins and then it’ll start no problem - shut it off, won’t start up again.
My 2018 Silverado just got towed to the dealership for this exact reason.just got a call saying it's the alternator.not sure how that could be when the battery had a full charge.we shall see lol
I'm sorry, but when you seen the voltage drop difference from the positive cable at the starter to the starter post, that right there tells you that you didn't have a good connection at that post! Removing the cable and cleaning it would have fixed the issue, without removingv the starter to have it tested!
Mine only has slugges crank when warm if let cool down It cranks rite up I mean it cranks but acts like battery's dead new starter new battery battery all replaced
well, not exactly sure what is wrong with these starters. i had the same exact issue that you had, all i did was pull the starter to check for power with the key on, the bendix kicked in, i bolted the starter back to the block and it fired right up.
I'm having the same problem, Ferman Chevy want to charge me 900 to change the starter, they told my wife that some of the starter blades was broken, i removed the starter it looks fine , we got a new one but the company send the wrong one so i don't know if is the stater .
Edgar Palma There’s only two bolts holding that starter in place. Another heat shield bolt, battery cable and a single pigtail to the solenoid. Takes less than 10 minutes to remove and swap them if it’s on a lift.
Charles Chavez yes, connection between the starter and solenoid corroded more to the point it arched and prevented starting. Cleaned connection points and replace the nut and washer and was good from then on
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Thank you for the info. My 2017 Silverado wouldn't crank and left me stranded at work. Your info prompted me to investigate and I found that the connector for the solenoid was broken off! due to corrosion. I was able to jump the connection with my Power Probe (you could use a piece of wire or jumper cable, but have to be very careful not to short it to the frame or engine) and activate the solenoid... got it started and made it home. The 90 degree connector is held on with a little screw on the solenoid underneath a round plastic and foil heat shield... I cut off the plug and used a ring terminal to connect right to the solenoid... just like they used to do. It's lower than the power cable, further away from the exhaust, so I don't think heat will be an issue. Easy fix, saved me $200 for a starter (or worse... towing to the dealer) and I didn't need to remove the starter to do it.
Just wanted to share in case someone else runs into the same thing. Removing the wheel and inner fender is pretty much a necessity, but I was able to apply power to get it started to get it home with the inner fender on. The inner fender screws are T15 and the solenoid connector is 8mm. Hope this helps somebody.
Thanks for sharing your video. I had the same issue with my 2017 Silverado. The frame was sprayed with the rust corrosion tar junk and that was keeping the ground wire from providing a good connection. Removed the rust corrosion tar junk, sanded the area and reinstalled the ground wire. Started right up. You saved me a ton of money!
Awesome
Same. 2016 Silverado
Good to hear, I’m having the same issue with my 2017 Silverado currently. When I banged the starter with a hammer to fire it up sparks were shooting, so I’m assuming I’m having the same problem with a bad ground connection? Gonna try this tomorrow!
Thank you for this video! Followed everything you did for a 2015 Silverado. Brought the starter to autozone. Passed. Cleaned the grounds and cleaned the terminals on the solenoid. Corrosion on the terminals. Re-installed and now its starting great. Please keep posting videos.
Awesome
Imma going to burn my Chevy !!! Worst truck ever!!! Piece of garbage
I tried this and it worked like a charm. Thanks a million. Up where I live a new starter was over 500 with taxes.
Thanks for this video. Unfortunately, I went through the process you showed before finding your video. My issue on my 2017 Silverado is constant dirt/corrosion on the positive battery connector to the starter. When I get the click, I clean the wire connector with a wire brush and it solves the problem. Everyone should try to troubleshoot these items before pulling the starter out to save time and effort.
A friend of mine is having the same issue on his 14 Sierra. I’m going to show him your video. You did a great job on the video and it will help many. Thanks for posting
J D thanks, have him check the post that links the solenoid and starter motor. I had bad corrosion where the washer rotted and the connection was lose causing arcing
Thank you! After traveling 250 miles with family stopped to get fuel and went to start up the 2014 silverado it would not turn over. Pulled up your video and instantly checked the frame ground. Cleaned it and bam truck started! Appreciated the help!
Thank you for sharing, my 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado had/has the same issue, it’ll eventually start up, sometimes on the 10th crank, and some times on the 100th crank. I’ve done the same procedure 6-8months ago. everything worked fine up until yesterday 6-8 months after doing everything in this clip, the problem has returned, so I’m about to run through everything again in hopes it’ll work the second time around. The area that I live in has horrible winter road conditions and it beats up and causes mass corrosion on all vehicles.
I stopped in to see if any one has figured out anything new or has found the actual reason for this issue or better yet a more permanent fix. If I find anything new or do something different that works I’ll be sure to give an update in hopes it can help someone else and save them from pounding their head against the wall and also save some money haha
Check the connection off the solenoid terminal to starter. Prone to corrosion you can’t see. May need to remove nut and clean the stud, new washers etc. mine has been doing fine since this video was posted
@watsonswagons is yours still running and starting ok? I did what you suggested, it worked. Then a few weeks later i had lights flashing, alternator was making a humming and I had to get the alternator replaced. All was good for about 3 weeks, then lots of issues since. I tried removing some of the sound deadening under the dash that a couple other guys have posted videos about. I’m about at my wits end. When it gets no power, I’ll recede the positive and the negative and it’ll start and then (the most recent thing) I’ll drive it and it’ll die if I turn or something that pulls more power. Then i have to recede the cables again. So just curious if yours is still running well if you still have it.
@jojojoseph did you find a solution for yours?
@@robholcomb1803 I had similar issues late last summer (having no crank no start issues now) and what fixed it for me was replacing the battery ground cable that he shows earlier in the video. Getting to the engine ground is a pain in the ass but replacing that whole cable solved a ton of issues, particularly total power loss and hard steering at low speeds. Later today I need to pull the starter and get that tested. We need a silverado owners therapy group or something.
I just went through this same experience...almost exactly. Gotta love it when you "fix" something and aren't entirely sure how you did it. Lol
He knows exactly what the problem was. No voltage at the starter stud, but he DID have voltage on the lug! THAT was the issue.
The ground is made at the threads instead of matting on the frame to reduce corrosion. The bare spot and threads need to be protected with undercoating material
You found your problem and apparently didn't realize it. At 4:10 when you touched the positive cable and had 12.68v but the stud should have had the same voltage but you said it hardly had anything. That was a bad connection, you probably could have loosened off the nut and tightened it up again and had a good enough connection which is essentially what you ended up doing when you removed the started and reinstalled it.
your comment made me follow your channel.
Exactly!
Curious if you’ve seen this before. I’m about to crawl under my truck and do a voltage test on starter/battery connector. It’d be interesting if this is a common problem. I’m not losing power to my dash. Just a click, which makes me wonder if starter or bad or battery connection is corroded.
@@Tim20461 Yes I have, make sure your connection from the battery to the starter are all good and solid.
@@737mechanic very much appreciate your timely response
Thanks for this video again. I had this issue last year and this is how it was resolved. NOW it's back. One year later I'm watching this video again and I'm going to remove the 1,000 bolts from the inner fender so I can repeat it. 😭😅
Check the connection between the starter solenoid and starter. The nuts and washers on the stud corrode and cause arching
@@WatsonsWagons I will do. Thanks 👍
Thanks for your Service, see that Tanker Sticker.... US Army 28yrs here...
You did a great job fixing your (No-start) issue, I've seen plenty of videos with people who drive the Sierra or Silverado manufactured from 2014 on up with electrical problems stemming from the body ground. I have the 2015 Silverado and sometimes when I apply the brakes, I notice my headlights dim a little, I am glad you posted your video, so what I am gonna do on a nice day, is cleanup all of my ground contacts, as a preventive maintenance for my truck.
James Grate thanks, hope you have success
Did you find the a solution to your problem james? I'm having the exact same issues as you described
@Sinaloacosala, Thank God, yes I finally got the problem resolved, it involved a couple of things gone wrong, there is a ground wire that's underneath the front passenger side on the frame of my truck that was corroded, so I cleaned it with a wire brush and applied Die-electric grease and re-mounted it. The next step was taking my truck to the dealer and they informed me that my motor mounts failed, and it was grounding out the engine, luckily it was still under warranty, so they replaced them free of charge. Again thank God, I haven't had any issues with my truck since the repair. The Main Culprit was the (motor mounts), it can cause the engine to misfire in cylinder 8 & 4, causing a rough engine idle, once they diagnose if you have the same issue and make the repairs you should be good. I hope this answer your question and help you get a general idea of what may be wrong with your truck, it's a headache, but be persistent with the dealer, don't accept their excuse that it's normal, God Bless and stay safe, please let me know how everything work out...
I also have a video that I uploaded a while back, recorded on my dash camera, showing the technician at the dealership discovering the problem as he is running what is called a (Pico-Scope), and you clearly hear his negative response as he reads the results of the test..
Thanks for the video just replaced my starter after watching this video thanks again 2015 GMC Sierra 1500
Literally just had this happen. Then when I got the truck started I had a bunch of codes saying "service 4WD, service trailer brake, service power steering, service stabilitrak, service brake assist" and my truck went into like a limp mode where the rpms had to be about 2200 before the truck would even move. Torque converter shudder the whole 9 yards. A few hours later it started and drove fine but had a check engine light. Dealership diagnosed it as a bad negative cable. Saying it was having voltage drop from the negative battery terminal. They said my aftermarket stereo could be the culprit too. I'm gonna start with this, they wanted $350 to change the cable. After watching this video I definitely know my dad and I could fix this in the driveway. Thanks for the helpful video man. Love this truck but man it's been a headache since I've owned it in January.
Billy loughridge what was your solution if don't mind asking I'm having the same same problem
@@ricardotovar5549 well what happened to me was I had the range afm disabler plug in. I bought it used. It must have needed a software update because I cleared the codes and had the range updated and haven’t had any issues. I never did have to fix anything else for that issue.
@@Billy-hx3zi thanks for the response..ima have to keep searching..I change ground cable and clean other grounds and still no luck
@@ricardotovar5549 damn. Yeah keep reading up on it, I’m sure it’s something stupid lol
I like my 03. 400,000 miles & still strong.ill drive it til it pops then ill put another engine in it & keep on driving it & hand it down to my son.it will live forever!!!!
Thank you for the video. I had a similar problem. 1st time I was able to tap several times on the starter and "unstick" the "bad spot" in it, I was able to drive home and replaced the failing starter 4 months later. I've heard that removing the starter and giving the shaft a slight turn can occasionally work too on a "bad spot". Last night I was driving in freezing rain and slush snow. This morning the starter would only "click" I placed a small electric heater under the starter in -5 degree temps. In 30 minutes it has thawed out and started great. I assume moisture or condensation was in the starter and it froze up. I would recommend checking the battery and all the connections 1st.
2014 Chevy Silverado and same issue! Why GM made the grounds they did is crazy. Also have one underneath your driver side dash that you can clean.
Replaced battery and alternator and still had same issue go to crank and no power. Clean all the grounds and check your starter. My truck has 146,000 miles on it. Love the Chevy truck but location of grounds needs to improve. Great video
A deeper problem is the post coming off of the starter to the solenoid. Basically a strap mounted to a stud had lots of corrosion on it. I had to clean all that off and put fresh washers in. It was arcing, and that arching caused the system to shut down.
Thank God I found this video. I have 17 Silverado and I am having this same problem. I’m doing this today! Thanks.
Flight Skool Double check the connection between the starter and solenoid I had a lot of corrosion where that stuff is and had to take that portion apart clean it and put a new washer on. It was arcing in the moment the arc happens the system shut down.
Flight Skool when your manifold bolts break I have videos on that as well.
Thanks. I’ll give an update once I get to the problem.
Flight Skool don’t break the clip on the power that plugs into the side of the starter. That harness will fall loose on its own if you break it, ask me how I know?
@@WatsonsWagons Thank You!!! Same problem here up in Canada. Watched where the power leaves the solenoid and sure enough it was arcing causing a short. Cleaned it up and no more arcing! Great video!
Interesting, how the act fixed the issue. All good though. Will keep this in mind if that happens to my 2017 HC. Also check the fuses on the driver's side, another viewer had them all partly out and caused the same issue. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
The fuse box under the hood or in the cabin?
I had the exact same issue. Cleaned the ground you mentioned and still same issue. I ended up replacing the starter which has solved the one click issue when starting my 18' Silverado (my trucks starter went bad at only 40k miles, not impressed GM !!!)
Mine literally went bad today! 33k mi
Mine went bad after 40k too!
2018 Silverado
Have a 2018 Chevy Silverado---Started having a no start problem about 2 weeks ago. I had driven my truck, came back to my house and needed to leave an hr later and it wouldn't start. Thought maybe just my youngest son hit a interior light on or maybe I didn't close my door all the way. I jumped the truck and didn't have any issues for another couple of days. Had the truck not wanting to start those couple of days later but also thought, due to being between my old job and new job, I wasn't running the vehicle to keep it charged and then having the intermittent cold spells/weather maybe just a the battery. Well the problem has only gotten worse. I had to jump the truck one morning prior to work and starting at my new job. Went to work and was at Human Resources for about 2 hours. Truck started no issues. Left and went to my work place, couple of miles away. Was there to finish out my work day about another 5 hrs, truck never had a problem starting. Left work, stopped briefly at a TSC store, went in for literally 1 minute as they didn't have what I needed, came back out to start my truck and only clicked once. Thankfully an individual gave me a jumpstart. Now, will occasionally start but moreso just experiencing a 'one click' response when trying to start. We've done (my husband and I) everything from cleaning the ground wire to the frame, to cleaning the battery terminals, to checking all the fuses under the hood and on the driver's door panel area, just browsed them to make sure none looked blown and made sure all snug in their spots, switched the starter relay temporarily with the trailering (as we seen on RUclips), attempted neutral start, replaced the battery, checked voltage under a load, had the starter checked at AutoZone and it passed, after trying to tap it for potential "flat spot." Sometimes it will start when being jumped from electric battery charger or my husband's truck. Doesn't usually start right away but may take a couple attempts. Usually just clicks once and then nothing until after attempting several starts and then it will fire up. We will run it around, attempt a restart, sometimes it will restart a couple times, recheck 30 minutes to an hr later and will only click once. Before we un-installed the starter...we did happen to find the positive cable to the starter was arcing. Wrapped with electrical tape then tiger patch muffler tape since so close to the manifold. Didn't resolve the problem. Removed the starter and had it tested, which I said above and was told it's good and was given the report. Reinstalled the starter and my truck started right up. I ran it about 30 minutes while we reassembled the truck, putting back in the inner wheel wall, tire...and ran it out my driveway and road...about 2 miles. Came back. Turned off the truck. Had 3 successful back to back starts ..thought maybe we fixed the issue..tried to restart about 30 minutes later and only the click again. All the lights, etc do and always have worked when attempting to start. Also noticed on the dash panel that it says "CAL." We read in the owners manual that that only has something to do with the navigation system though and it goes away once we run it. So, my question to anyone...what in the world do we do?? Do you think we should replace the starter even though we are being told it's good? Replace that positive cable to the starter because it showed signs of being arced (which we incidentally found working on the truck at night)? Replace both? Just have it towed? I bought this truck hoping I wouldn't have car issues and it seems to be a headache since I've bought it! I really need this vehicle for work as my husband and I are sharing 1 vehicle for work and we work in 2 different counties about 40 minutes from each other!
Some of these have a ghost (rare event) where some systems do not shut all of the way off (HMI, Radio, etc) when leaving the car. It is rare. But, when it does, the battery is completely discharged. Completely discharging the battery can result in random issues when replaced. After replacing a dead battery, it is always to hook up to the OBD and look at all of the results and then clear them before proceeding. Also, it is good to periodically check the OBD for hidden problems and clear them. If needed, phone based OBD software can create a report prior to clearing the messages to allow you to keep a permanent record. The new models are like babies, they need lots of checkups and health tracking. My favorite is OBDLink MX+ and for programming updates VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win Diagnostic Programming System for GM/Opel Version. New GM updates (calibrations) occur for about the first five years. Lots of the calibrations are based on customer feedback where the limit based checking system needs the limits expanded a bit prior to throwing an error or shutting something off. Good luck! Almost forgot. ACDelco has recalls on bad batteries. I found I had one of those installed by a dealer. The bad news is that the recall was months before the dealer installed the battery. Of course, the battery died in less than two years. Battery engineers need to remember to leave a space at the bottom for debris to build up from the charge cycles. If not, when the debris touches the bottom of the plates, the battery becomes useless. These are all old problems that keep recurring as each generation of employees start work without gaining all of the value from an apprenticeship program.
good video my 2018 Silverado is doing the same thing right now
truck has 36000 miles
My 2018 had corroded connections on the starter. Clean connections and problem solved
I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 58000 approximate miles that had/may still have (not sure) a similar issue. First no start, tested battery and got 12.7. AAA showed up and were able to jump the truck. Drove it to a buddies auto shop and installed a new interstate green top battery. Truck started and I went on my way. About a week later I had a no start again. I was able to jump the new battery and took it to the stealership. They advised it was the little four inch positive battery cable. $119 later and I'm out of there with a new cable and the old one in my pocket. 36 hours later, no start. AAA came and tried to jump with no luck. Truck towed to stealership where it was determined that I must have a new starter installed. Because of the GM strike, no starters available on the east coast (Maine to Florida) to be had by me for the fix. Stealership used a NAPA starter and I was back on the road. 6 days later I had a no start again. AAA came by and decided to smack the new starter with a hammer just in case the aftermarket starter was hung up. While attempting to smack the starter a wire was discovered hanging down. It was the starter solenoid wire. Note - After market starters require the connection really be jammed on there tight. I elected to have the vehicle towed to the stealership again to remedy this issue... my problem but theirs too. After they jammed the wire on there no issues for a couple of weeks until two days ago when I was out renting a trailer to haul the Harley and there was yet again a no start. AAA came, observed as I did that there was current on the dash but no click under the hood. They towed the truck to the stealership who after locking the keys in the truck jumped the truck and advised that they believe the battery could have a shifted or bad cell. I drove home and charged the still new battery to full then float. No issues yet. Will update all if there's another no start. May do the battery isolator and second battery in the future as well as the ground thing Watson's Wagons discovered. Best wishes folks.
David Vaughan geez, I had another failure and it was 2 things, small wire connection between starter and solenoid. So much corrosion the act of starting just simply arched. The washer and nut on the solenoid were toast. This video shows the rust and funk. So I took that apart, cleaned surfaces and used a fresh nut and washer. Also had a broken tab on the solenoid wire, vibrated loose. I could reach in with my left arm and reinstall the wire. So I took a few hours to permanently attach the wire with zip ties. Haven’t had a problem since.
Having same problem with 2017. Yesterday, we Tested volts from batt to starter: 12. Then post and nut at starter: 2.00. We tightened nut and it went up above 7.00. It started right away. Tightened nut more, tested at 12.00. Tried starting this morning: just a click. I’ll try cleaning connection. This is the last GM vehicle I will ever buy.
Great Video. Same exact thing happened to me on a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT. Although my starter was replaced a few months back, I went back and cleaned the ground wire under the wheel well shroud and believe it could have been the buckle clip was loose on mine. The red security clip also broke first time around and after putting it back on property, I used a small zip tie to secure it on snuggly just enough it won't come loose again and then replaced the heat shield bucket cover. Job Well done on the video and very helpful ‼️
This video really helped me out. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing this is good advice I'm going to try this before I replace the starter
Did it solve your problem?
So this started to happen to my truck changed battery new starter got the starter installed at dealership was working awesome for 4-5months and I’m back to the same. She can start right up drive her to the store in and out 10min. No start takes a few tries for it to start up it clicks clicks clicks until it starts up but has trouble starting up. Any help on this?? Thank
Do the dash lights go out when it doesn’t start? Check the short stud coming off the solenoid that connects the starter. That stud, washers and get corrosion and cause arching.
@@WatsonsWagons only the check engine light starts flashing with the clicking
@@erikmendoza8641 did you fix it? Mine is doing the same?
@@tinotabares6034 yeah bro. I did this and a checked all my fuses make sure they was secure and haven’t had any issues
@@erikmendoza8641 strange. I went to jack mine up to check the ground wire and kind of gave it a hard wiggle while it was in the air and said for shyts and giggles let me try to crank it and it crunk up and is now cranking. I didn’t replace anything only wiggled the wires. How long do you think this will last? It’s running and cranking with no problems again like before it started doing that
I had a hot soak no start issue. Cleaned all connections and installed a better heat shield. No probs since.
I was having a problem with starter. Check the starter relay in your fuse box.
2017 had the same issues with the starter.Did the same exact same thing you did and it started. Thanks for the info.
Well after it didn't start again .....i ended up replacing the starter.
I'm about to change the starter also. Did this fix the problem so far?
When you tested the starter wire going to the starter and it showed 12.6 and a stud show nothing it was the connection between the battery wire going to the starter and a stud.
All you needed to do was take the nut off the battery cable and clean the cable and put the nut back on.
Electrical stuff drives me nuts ,Iam having same trouble with the 08 Silverado .It seems to have started with short in Drivers headlight .One click nothing when I turn key .Iam cleaning all grounds and connections. Thanks for video .Really good learned alot .👍
Did you find the issue? Mine does the same thing i have to jump it from the power wire on the starter to the starter solenoid
@@cbuschjr Mine Turned out to be a bad Battery ! I Bought a new one that was defective , it drove me nuts . Finally had It checked and replaced ! Good Luck with yours .
Thank you very much,
Not my issues. New battery, new starter idk what else. Even replaced the ground cable. Mine is so intermittent
@@cbuschjr Sounds like a short some where for sure . Iam horrible with electric .I was close to taking it to a mechanic that could run it down .I never dreamed a new Battery could be bad .Anyway good luck sorry couldnt help more .✌
I broke the red clip on the starter connector as well. Did u ever have any other issues with it? I had nothing left on the red clip so I plugged it in and wrapped with tape.
I got the same issue with my 07 Silverado, alternator, battery brand new
Thank you for the video. Did the cleaned ground solution last?
Yes but there was another problem that I discovered it was the post that leads from the solenoid to the starter. It’s sort of a flat mesh connection with a couple of washers and a nut that sends power from the solenoid to the starter motor that area was arcing due to corrosion I had to take that apart cleaned it and put new washers in a nut on there so check that area for looseness
@@WatsonsWagons thank you. Im about to take my 2016 apart for this click and try to get in there and this really helps. I did the battery Sunday and thought I was good but I was wrong. I really appreciate it
Grinding the frame worked for me, 2024.
Same issues , no start , cleaned all grounds even the ones at both ends of the top of the dash , New battery , Alt , the shop put in a new starter relay , work for to weeks , seems if i take the Neg battery wire off it seems to Reboot and starts , voltage stays about 14, have a Blue Driver code reader says of one of the fixes may be a new battery cable , think i try this first , thanks for sharing
My 14 just started doing this. When I let it sit and cool down it starts right up. I’ve heard the starter gets to hot. The replacement starter from Gm is different than the original. But I don’t know that this is the problem I have yet to replace anything
Part of the fun of living in the rust belt. Next up, check the brake lines before they rust through.
Thanks!! Nice Information.
My 2007 silverado 1500 is making the same click. tested the starter and it is fine. I noticed it dose not realize that it is in park and I need to slightly push the shifter back and I am able to start it. Not sure where i need to look to fix this.
Could be the neutral safety switch. It's on the side of transmission under the driver side. It only allows the truck to start if it's in "P" or "N".
Watson have you had issues after this. I have had this issue 3 time in the past 2.5 months. I think through research they say it is the ecm/ computer. Keeping the battery disconnected drains the electrical system and resests the computer. Last Friday 2/5/21 I went to leave work and it happened. This time I quickly disconnected the battery both sides then connected the negative and positive cables together to quickly drain the system with the headlight knob on manual on to keep an open circuit flowing. I waited 20 min for system to completely drain and re connected. At that point the computer reset and started first crank.
2014 High Country, same problem. SOMETIMES, it won't start on the first try, second try, third try... but about the 10th, 11th, 12th try it starts right up. I haven't been stranded yet. My instinct is that wet conditions play a factor for my problem.
This morning I started my 2014 GMC SLE at -18 C and after the 10 min warmup on the key fob it would not start so outside in the freezing cold and the dash lights light up but no crank. Not even a click. I put in a new battery just on spec 2 months ago and checked connections. Seemed good. So throw a charger on it and checked it and there was 12.8 volts. Tried after a bit and nothing. Volts back up a bit. Disconnected battery checked posts and all good and clean. I read on here about smacking the alternator so I got out the small ball peen hammer and damn if it didn’t work. Alternator is putting out 14.22 at the batter and at the fuses and to the alternator it’s 14.11 volts. I am getting amperage out of the alternator and it’s charging.. Its too cold outside so when I can get it into a garage or springtime I have to check those grounds.. It started all day downtown:: Good video
I’m having the same problem. I’ve tried all suggestions in this video and am still having the issue. Any other suggestions?
@@KaylTingley-b1r check the link between the starter motor and solenoid and see if it’s heavily corroded. After this video I had the problem again and cleaned and replaced the nuts and washers on the solenoid post. Mine was arching with loose connections
Will do. Thanks
Very good video thank you man👍
just bought a 2014 silverado 1500 about 2 months ago with 80,000 miles on it and drove beautiful for the first month. now i’m having this same issue. the truck will start if i hadn’t drove it in hours, but if i went to get gas or something and had to turn it off and back on, it won’t start and it does that same thing, cabin lighting, headlights radio everything turns on but i can’t get the truck to start. battery and alternator tested good at multiple different places i brought it, so when they ran a diagnostic last week they found it was the starter that was the issue and replaced it. truck ran great for 2 days and now i’m back to it not starting again. what do i do?
I have a 2014 1500 with the same problem. It was my negative battery cable.
@@rudyynostrosa3421 thank you! i had some loose connections for my ignition switch, replaced them and haven’t had the problem since. if it happens again i’ll keep this in mind!
@@joshglanzwheres the ignition switch located?
I have a 2014. Every 3 or 4 months when I start my truck, nothing comes on. Goes completely dead. But when I unhooked the negative battery cable for 20 seconds and hook it back it starts right up. What could that problem be? Plus I have a new battery. But the positive cable and the little box that its connected to on top of the battery doesn't fit right on it.
My 2015 is the same. I think it’s some kind of computer glitch
@@EricWillis77 it might be. Mine hasn't done it in a while. Knock on wood. Hopefully it fixed itself. Lol.
Did your radio have any erratic entry into browse mode when you started dealing with this issue? Mine started with the radio and is now giving me this same electrical headache.
I have the same issue and then it just clicks. I have to start it from underneath the truck by touching the positive to the solenoid. So damn aggravating. Can't find the solution
@@cbuschjr my HMI fried and I had to buy a new one. Now waiting for programming! I’ll try the starter issue too
I have the same radio issue! My HMI fried and am replacing it now. With no radio/hmi/ fuse my truck just clicks now upon start.
@@ChrisChris-mg8rj what is hmi? My radio went out and now my Yukon won’t start
I had same issue. Replaced battery and starter. Got 3-4 good starts. Doing same thing again.
You helped me. Thanks
You’re very welcome. I’m glad it was helpful.
My truck had loose starter connections Pulled back the wheel well and tighten the connection with a 13mm.
Did you ever have a problem with the starter after that? I'm having the same issue right now. Brike down at the post office
So after all of this work you did what would you say the issue is?
It happened again a month later, discovered the terminal on the solenoid that the starter hooks to had rotted nuts and washers. When starting it caused arching and that was enough for the system to recognize and shut off. I cleaned the terminals and replaced the nuts and washers. Coated the connections with liquid electrical tape. Haven’t had a problem yet
@@WatsonsWagons would a new starter possibly fix the problem?
I am having the same issue I’m going to check it out now or in a little bit I will keep you posted
Check stud and strap from solenoid to starter. Prime corrosion point causing arching
If this was my problem would I still be able to cross the starter to get it to turn over?
Had this happen the other day I just disconnected the battery for 10 min reset ECM n/p since.
Were you also having a problem with it turning the vehicle off randomly and also the vehicle engaging the theft deterrent system when it was going off? My 2014 silverado seems to be having a similar problem and I'm trying to figure this out before dumping a ton of cash into it. Twice when it didn't start, it actually drained 100% of power from the truck as well and I had to jump it to get it going.
I'm seeing this issue as well
If the vehicle is "dying" randomly, it has NOTHING to do with the starter.. You are losing power somewhere else.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair turned out after chasing grounds it was a combination of bad negative wire to the battery and the ground behind the speaker on the driver's side under the windshield.
I had the same problem on Monday & replaced my battery, everything was fine Tuesday during the day, & then suddenly the problem came back. I turn the key over & it just clicks. The alternator seems to be fine it shows 14.8.. I'm thinking it could possibly be the starter.
Miguel Rizo i found my connection between the starter motor and solenoid loose and corroded. Also The wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch off lose
@@WatsonsWagons I'll check that out, & let you know. Thank you!
@@vatozlocoz214 so what happen did you find the problem?
@@WatsonsWagonswheres the ignition switch located?
@@franzortega2678steering column
Any issues since?
Yes, the stud nut and washer coming off the solenoid needed to be cleaned and a new nut and washer installed. Corrosion was causing arching and the issue returned. Fixed it and has been perfect ever since
Pick your brain. 2015 gmc sierra, remote start it fires up fast, but when I use the key its like the battery is almost dead slow cranking...any ideas
Great video !
My 2015 Silverado is doing this rightnow, my battery is reading good volts, all I did was take off starter and took it to get tested like you did I put it back on and turned on I used it for a couple days, now today it didn’t want to start
Jacob Villasana did you check the tightness of the connection between the solenoid and starter? I found a corroded washer, the connection was loose and arching. The moment it arch’s the dash Will go blank. Pull it and check, I had to clean contacts and replace the nut and washer
Any update how its going now?
Buen vídeo 👍
I just had this happen on my 17 sierra 1500. It was due to a bad starter. Dealership replaced starter and truck is back in business.
How is it doing still?
How is the truck doing?
Did you sell the truck? Is it still starting?
I think i have this issue it just tested bad from oreilly while i was having a battery, alt test..
I crawled under and saw alot of condensation from my AC dripping down in that area might try this
7:35. that's the same question I've been asking for years lol.
Hahahahaha
My 2015 Chevy truck intermittently does that same thing. I can’t find anything wrong. I can unhook battery then hook it up awhile later and it’s all good for awhile 😳.
Great video. Oh and mine doesn’t even click the solenoid!!!
This happened to my 2014 silverauto too
My 2014 sierra does the same thing when i pull my trailer. The extra power for trailer light make my ground cable get hot. wait till it cool down and crank back up
The starter wasnt making a good connection somewhere, when you took itt off and put it on you cleaned the posts and completed the connection, had to have been.
It turned out to be the post between the starter and the built-in solenoid. It was rotted out. I cleaned it put new washers on it, and I haven’t had a problem since this video.
@WatsonsWagons ah nice, that's a nice cheap fix! Good video btw.
Ours did that it said to roll down the window we roll down the window completely roll it backup and it started right up
Did you check the neutral safety switch? It's the one part in the starting system that will allow everything to work when the key's on and not send power to the starter solenoid (via the fuse, start relay and PCM). My 2016 has this problem and it's "fixed" by turning the key to on and shifting the truck from park to neutral and back to park, then starting the engine.
My truck won't start now. These 14 Silverados been nothing but one problem after another and Chevy didn't stand behind any of it..they should make it right with us all. I'm very hesitant to buy another chevy again now. So did it give you any more problems?
The second problem I found was corrosion where the starter solenoid connection meets the starter that little short jumper. It was arcing on the stud, and I had to replace washers and nuts. That arc was enough to make everything go dead.
I've had the same problem with my 2014 Silverado
Did you get back to working? Mine just started this today
That's what happens when you buy junk ass GM junk. Our 2014 is having the same issue and has for months. Junk.
mine does the same after i drive for more than 30 minutes turn it off it wont start until it cools down for more than an 25-20 minutes. i can drive it all day as long as it dosent turn off. not sure what it is.
Ironically my 2015 Silverado had the same problem that started just the other day. July 2nd to be exact. I fixed it the same way you did. My ground was actually good, however there was one corroded connection from the solenoid to the starter. It didn't look too terrible but some corrosion, and now it starts every time after cleaning that up. Only 5 years and under 60K miles and this was an issue. If it happens again, I'll probably clean up the connections and then cover them with liquid electrical tape when I put it all back together.
Very helpful! You definitely had a bad connection at the starter positive lead...
Working on a 2018 tomorrow that's a no crank. Dealership already replaced the starter TWICE. Owner gave up on the dealership.
What came of this if you don’t mind sharing? I’m about to give up too
I had an almost exct same situation happen. Except with the ground. Except i didnt have any power anywhere
Grounds grounds grounds before you buy anything check all the grounds there's probly at least 8 on the front of your truck and on the inside check them all
Is there some kind of booklet to show you where they all are?
Dielectric grease is an "insulater".
Bad choice for protecting a ground.
Better choice would be CONDUCTIVE grease, such as common, copper or nickel based ANTI SEIZE.
2015 Silverado 2500 been through 3 starters they are just junk same symptoms go out no crank tap on the starter and it will start
Tod DeSonia I found the connection between the starter and solenoid works itself loose also developed corrosion and causes it to ARC. I cleaned up this part of the connection and put a new nut and washer on and it’s been working perfect ever since
yep sounds like you have a bad ground or bad connection to ground. my 2010 did the samer thing, 3 secs with a 240 grit disc on an air sander and it runs great even after 3 months
Another bad starter
I'll try taking it down and cleaning it again see if that helps us
Have you ran into this problem since cleaning the connections? My 2014 Silverado is doing the same exact thing - brand new battery, alternator is good. I’ll leave it for 30 mins and then it’ll start no problem - shut it off, won’t start up again.
Kayla Vettorazzi nope still starts just fine
Watson's Wagons great thanks! Will get into it this weekend.
Kayla Vettorazzi my 15 gmc does the same thing
David Gonzalez check the stud and nut where the wire come out of the starter and goes on the stud on the solenoid. Mine was badly corroded and lose
Kayla Vettorazzi did you ever figure out what was the problem
My 2018 Silverado just got towed to the dealership for this exact reason.just got a call saying it's the alternator.not sure how that could be when the battery had a full charge.we shall see lol
Did it fix the problem
I'm sorry, but when you seen the voltage drop difference from the positive cable at the starter to the starter post, that right there tells you that you didn't have a good connection at that post! Removing the cable and cleaning it would have fixed the issue, without removingv the starter to have it tested!
Great job. I'm currently in the same spot
My 08 sierra started doing this!
Mine only has slugges crank when warm if let cool down It cranks rite up I mean it cranks but acts like battery's dead new starter new battery battery all replaced
well, not exactly sure what is wrong with these starters. i had the same exact issue that you had, all i did was pull the starter to check for power with the key on, the bendix kicked in, i bolted the starter back to the block and it fired right up.
I'm having the same problem, Ferman Chevy want to charge me 900 to change the starter, they told my wife that some of the starter blades was broken, i removed the starter it looks fine , we got a new one but the company send the wrong one so i don't know if is the stater .
Edgar Palma There’s only two bolts holding that starter in place. Another heat shield bolt, battery cable and a single pigtail to the solenoid. Takes less than 10 minutes to remove and swap them if it’s on a lift.
I do test starter 6 times. See if it get hot it stop working
Just to clarify he just took the starter out and put it back in?
He also cleaned all terminal connectors on starter, as well as ground wire on fender well.
Yeah they've had a bad batch of starters ever since the '80s when they decided to put it up underneath the exhaust manifold
Any issues since you did this?
Charles Chavez yes, connection between the starter and solenoid corroded more to the point it arched and prevented starting. Cleaned connection points and replace the nut and washer and was good from then on
Same here today.