I just went thru this headache..... my 2014 Silverado turned out to have a faulty negative battery cable (even though it seemed fine with no corrosion on either end). Hope this helps someone out there. Good luck to all.
Had intermittent no crank on my 2018, was driving me crazy cleaned terminals etc, watched all videos after changed out starter relay and 40 A fuse. truck started ran good for a day then Stabilitrac lights up , engine light with #5 cyl misfire. Trac Control, antiloc and cruise all off line now, and the adventure begins, checked ALL ground points and made sure connection was good, it figures this would happen right after warranty expires
I have had this problem going on intermittently for years, just discovered the corroded crank relay today in the fuse box. I don't have a spare but I switched it with the defroster relay. They are all the same. I have had the service four-wheel drive and multiple low power codes. Hope this solves the problem!
I had this exact problem 2 yrs ago. Dealer mechanic couldn't find problem after a whole day in shop and fees. I showed him 2 videos similar to this and I haven't had the problem since.
One would think that GM would locate the wiring harness to the passenger side. The drivers side door gets three times the usage making it more susceptible to the elements.
Just fought with a similar problem. Positive short cable was getting hot at times. Finally found a voltage drop where the short cable connects to the mega fuse bar. The connection had oxidized (nothing visibly obvious). Worked fine after wire brushing the connections
This is quite probably a hot soak issue. The starter lives inches away from the catalytic converter with minimum shielding. I found loose connections at the starter motor probably due to high heating and cooling. This temperature delta will cause cable problems mainly due to high heat soaking at the motor.Better shielding and checking cable torque connections may be a maintenance consideration.
Nice work. I have a '14 Silverado 1500 2wd, 5.3. I also have intermittent complete power loss (seems to be aggravated by heat). Did the owner of this truck indicate that the fix you did resolved the problem?
Here's what I found a few days later. His problem was an intermittent no crank shortly after a hot soak. Never when cold. Drive for an hour shut it off to refuel for instance and then 15 min later no crank. After that event multiple network codes in multiple computers. Problem I believe was a voltage drop on the negative cable at the factory cable crimp. I believe it was causing high voltage drop on the body ground which caused the BCM to shut down due to low voltage. I replaced the ground cable clamp at the battery and the truck has been fine ever since. I started using marine cable clamps and copper lugs. Check out this video on the same truck. ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html. Since that truck I have had at least 3 other trucks that have been fixed for the same problem by changing out the battery cable end. Hope this helps.
@@PhillipBailey thank you very much. Yes, since messaging you I've seen this exact problem from quite a few others. I'm going to ask my mechanic to do that fix and hopefully take care of my problem. I appreciate your response. Again, good work.
My Silverado still has this issue: no crank, no start intermittently, after talking it to Chevy dealership says, under hood main fuse box needed replacing. 2 hours later problem remain. I've noticed at times moving gear shifter it might turn over. Is this a coincidence or am I reaching?
If it won't crank at time and then moving the shifter allows it to start that suggests the neutral safety switch is at fault. It could be coincidence as well. Trying it a second or third time could allow it to start. The fuse boxes are definitely a problem source. Does it set any codes when it does this in any computer? Unfortunately you need some test equipment on the circuits when it acts up. Its very hard to diagnose if it won't act up. Short of firing the parts cannon have to wait for it to become more consistent.
The truck in this video actually came back a few weeks later. Here is what I found: ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html Its been fine ever since I replaced the negative battery cable end. I have done this on at least 4 other GM trucks for intermittent No-Crank. Hope this helps.
Hi sir my name is Randy ihlo I have a 2014 chevy Silverado 4. V6 it shows me 12 codes and doing the same thing like your truck new battery and new starter I need help with it and right way
What would make a 4.3 vortex show error when hooking up computer and no crank when turn the key it's getting all power in the cab just not turning over u can turn it over at the starter relay but it not getting any fuel or fire idk confused can't figure it out
Hello Jakus. First I need more information. What year truck? What happened before it won't crank/start? What do you mean by "show error"? Can the scanner you are using communicate with the ECM? Can it communicate with the other controllers on the network specifically the BCM, ABS, Fuel Pump Driver? What scanner are you using and what codes can you read if any? Give me some details and I'll try help you out.
@@PhillipBailey it's a 2008 chevy 4,. 3 work truck and I accidently knocked the hot wire off the battery one night put it back on started it up started driven everything went dim the motor started ticking and it died and now won't start back I can jump the starter relay over and it turns over so I know it's not starter or bettery I am leaning more toward the ecm on all similar story's and it's a no crank no start my bad
@@jakuslee5146 was it running when the positive cable knocked off? Can you do a network scan. Start there. You can't just put an ECM in it as it needs to be programmed and married to the truck. Don't start changing parts without diagnosing it.
I have a 14 sierra have to jump the truck to start altinator will charge it but only holds charge for 20 min when thetruck is shutoff and the seat belt light is on in park
2014 silverado have the same problem but it does it only in the mornings on cold days replaced starter new battery ground cable cleaned all grounds contacts replaced all new relays start and crank dont know what else to check
What exactly does it do? I gather it's not cranking when you try start it. If that is the case you need to do a network scan for codes in all controllers. If no codes are present then you need to view the status of the crank request in the PCM, transmission gear position in the transmission computer and security data. Connect a test light to the S terminal at the starter and ground and confirm if there is no power being sent to the starter control wire. Don't you just love intermittent problems...HTH
Why change the alternator it has nothing to do with starting? There are dozens of possibilities but most likely you're going to need to do a network scan of all controllers and then address any fault codes related to the problem. Does the MIL come on with the key on? Does the fuel pump in the tank run for one second when you turn on the key? Does the starter relay click when you try to crank it? If so is there power being sent to the S terminal on the starter? Are all fuses good? Did you try moving the shifter to neutral? Aside from those things you need some test equipment to go further. Good luck
Hey man I was wondering. Where I could get the computer to get all this information my wife has a problem not cranking and can’t figure it out she said dealership charges 3k for a computer wiring
If you are looking for diagnostic information there are DIY resources on Alldata where you can pay as you go: www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/ If you are looking for a scanner there is no cheap full function scan tool AFAIK. The Maxiap 200 will do a network scan of all controllers but that will just give you possible direction through codes to use the service information to diagnose the root cause of the problem. 1. What has been done so far? 2. What exactly are the symptoms? 3. Was there any other work done to the vehicle prior this problem arising? 4. Year, Model, Engine displacement. Give me some details and I will try to help if I can...
@@PhillipBailey 2014 Silverado 5.3 4WD. Starter/battery r fine, Vehicle doesnt even attempt to crank it just clicks off when i turn the key, fuses are all in tack, i still have to grab a mulitmeter to verify the volts r going through them. She told me that the Power Steering had problems before it, but now it just doesnt do anything... been sitting for months now.
@@jacobandreoli9700 start by removing and cleaning the battery cable connections. Then charge and test the battery. If it still just clicks you will need to do a network scan for codes from all controllers. Check for power to the control wire on the starter solenoid when it clicks. If yes check the battery cable to the solenoid. If that is good likely needs a starter replacement. If there is no power to the S terminal on the solenoid then check the starter relay if it is clicking. Could be safety switch as well. Good luck.
This truck actually returned a few weeks later for the same problem. I believe the problem was actually a voltage drop in the negative battery cable clamp crimp. Here is a video of that repair on the same truck...ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html Since low voltage to various module will generate communication fault codes it's tough to diagnose. Since replacing the ground cable clamp the truck has never acted up again. Good luck...
This truck actually returned a few weeks later for the same problem. I believe the problem was actually a voltage drop in the negative battery cable clamp crimp. Here is a video of that repair on the same truck...ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html Since low voltage to various module will generate communication fault codes it's tough to diagnose. Since replacing the ground cable clamp the truck has never acted up again. Good luck...
Mine was due to my new AFM disabler even though they claim it shouldn’t drain battery appreciably as long as truck doesn’t sit for a week or two. I drove my truck daily. Check for aftermarket things that have been added.
how do you know this? Are you looking at Park/Neutral position in the ECM data? This comes from the Transmission Control Module via the CAN bus. If there is an issue with the BUS you should have no PRNDL display in the dash. Dose the PRNDL indicate the respective gear? Go into transmission data and have a look at the gear shift data. I believe it comes from an internal mode switch inside the transmission. Can you get it to start by turning on the ignition and bypassing the starter relay pins 30 and 87 (or 3 and 5). be careful to be sure it's in park. good luck
@@jacobandreoli9700 what are you using as a scanner? Can you do a network code scan of all controllers? Did you say the gear shift indicator is not working to indicate park etc?
I'm three min. In and I'll tell you this...I still own mine. These trucks continue to pull and surge the batteries when the truck is off. I charge my battery every quarter and replace it every 2.5 years. Don't rob a bank with these trucks, if you do....leave the engine running.
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I just went thru this headache..... my 2014 Silverado turned out to have a faulty negative battery cable (even though it seemed fine with no corrosion on either end).
Hope this helps someone out there.
Good luck to all.
That's what this ended up being as well. Here is the video...ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html
Replaced my negative battery cable & cleaned up all connecting points. Works perfect!
Had intermittent no crank on my 2018, was driving me crazy cleaned terminals etc, watched all videos after changed out starter relay and 40 A fuse. truck started ran good for a day then Stabilitrac lights up , engine light with #5 cyl misfire. Trac Control, antiloc and cruise all off line now, and the adventure begins, checked ALL ground points and made sure connection was good, it figures this would happen right after warranty expires
Thank you sir, I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 pulled my stater relay and found some lite corrosion.
I have had this problem going on intermittently for years, just discovered the corroded crank relay today in the fuse box. I don't have a spare but I switched it with the defroster relay. They are all the same. I have had the service four-wheel drive and multiple low power codes. Hope this solves the problem!
I had this exact problem 2 yrs ago. Dealer mechanic couldn't find problem after a whole day in shop and fees. I showed him 2 videos similar to this and I haven't had the problem since.
One would think that GM would locate the wiring harness to the passenger side. The drivers side door gets three times the usage making it more susceptible to the elements.
Just fought with a similar problem. Positive short cable was getting hot at times. Finally found a voltage drop where the short cable connects to the mega fuse bar. The connection had oxidized (nothing visibly obvious). Worked fine after wire brushing the connections
Good to know...
This is quite probably a hot soak issue. The starter lives inches away from the catalytic converter with minimum shielding. I found loose connections at the starter motor probably due to high heating and cooling. This temperature delta will cause cable problems mainly due to high heat soaking at the motor.Better shielding and checking cable torque connections may be a maintenance consideration.
I did the same in a cheyene 2010 and gmc Sierra 2015 you can check May last video is about that
Fantasy job Phil great tip on those taps they can be a bear.
Sorry I meant fantastic job
Thanks.
Nice work. I have a '14 Silverado 1500 2wd, 5.3. I also have intermittent complete power loss (seems to be aggravated by heat). Did the owner of this truck indicate that the fix you did resolved the problem?
Here's what I found a few days later. His problem was an intermittent no crank shortly after a hot soak. Never when cold. Drive for an hour shut it off to refuel for instance and then 15 min later no crank. After that event multiple network codes in multiple computers. Problem I believe was a voltage drop on the negative cable at the factory cable crimp. I believe it was causing high voltage drop on the body ground which caused the BCM to shut down due to low voltage. I replaced the ground cable clamp at the battery and the truck has been fine ever since. I started using marine cable clamps and copper lugs. Check out this video on the same truck. ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html.
Since that truck I have had at least 3 other trucks that have been fixed for the same problem by changing out the battery cable end. Hope this helps.
@@PhillipBailey thank you very much. Yes, since messaging you I've seen this exact problem from quite a few others. I'm going to ask my mechanic to do that fix and hopefully take care of my problem. I appreciate your response. Again, good work.
@@jbish3721 thanks let me know if that solves the issue.
@@PhillipBailey you got it
@@jbish3721 did it solve the problem?
My Silverado still has this issue: no crank, no start intermittently, after talking it to Chevy dealership says, under hood main fuse box needed replacing. 2 hours later problem remain. I've noticed at times moving gear shifter it might turn over. Is this a coincidence or am I reaching?
If it won't crank at time and then moving the shifter allows it to start that suggests the neutral safety switch is at fault. It could be coincidence as well. Trying it a second or third time could allow it to start. The fuse boxes are definitely a problem source. Does it set any codes when it does this in any computer? Unfortunately you need some test equipment on the circuits when it acts up. Its very hard to diagnose if it won't act up. Short of firing the parts cannon have to wait for it to become more consistent.
The truck in this video actually came back a few weeks later. Here is what I found: ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html
Its been fine ever since I replaced the negative battery cable end. I have done this on at least 4 other GM trucks for intermittent No-Crank. Hope this helps.
Hi sir my name is Randy ihlo I have a 2014 chevy Silverado 4. V6 it shows me 12 codes and doing the same thing like your truck new battery and new starter I need help with it and right way
What codes does it show and in which computers.
What would make a 4.3 vortex show error when hooking up computer and no crank when turn the key it's getting all power in the cab just not turning over u can turn it over at the starter relay but it not getting any fuel or fire idk confused can't figure it out
Hello Jakus. First I need more information. What year truck? What happened before it won't crank/start? What do you mean by "show error"? Can the scanner you are using communicate with the ECM? Can it communicate with the other controllers on the network specifically the BCM, ABS, Fuel Pump Driver? What scanner are you using and what codes can you read if any? Give me some details and I'll try help you out.
@@PhillipBailey it's a 2008 chevy 4,. 3 work truck and I accidently knocked the hot wire off the battery one night put it back on started it up started driven everything went dim the motor started ticking and it died and now won't start back I can jump the starter relay over and it turns over so I know it's not starter or bettery I am leaning more toward the ecm on all similar story's and it's a no crank no start my bad
@@jakuslee5146 was it running when the positive cable knocked off? Can you do a network scan. Start there. You can't just put an ECM in it as it needs to be programmed and married to the truck. Don't start changing parts without diagnosing it.
I have a 14 sierra have to jump the truck to start altinator will charge it but only holds charge for 20 min when thetruck is shutoff and the seat belt light is on in park
Sounds like a parasitic draw. Something is keeping the ignition on? Need to do parasitic draw testing
2014 silverado have the same problem but it does it only in the mornings on cold days replaced starter new battery ground cable cleaned all grounds contacts replaced all new relays start and crank dont know what else to check
What exactly does it do? I gather it's not cranking when you try start it. If that is the case you need to do a network scan for codes in all controllers. If no codes are present then you need to view the status of the crank request in the PCM, transmission gear position in the transmission computer and security data. Connect a test light to the S terminal at the starter and ground and confirm if there is no power being sent to the starter control wire. Don't you just love intermittent problems...HTH
Wont crank every thing lights up radio,dash ect.... and this only happens on cold days
@@Gmontelongo20 what was it
@@Mythrays1 they said that i need a new tcm tarnsmission control module that the connetor was damaged it goes inside the tramsmission oil pan
My truck doesn’t start or crank or turn on lights already replaced battery and alternator and nothing
Why change the alternator it has nothing to do with starting? There are dozens of possibilities but most likely you're going to need to do a network scan of all controllers and then address any fault codes related to the problem. Does the MIL come on with the key on? Does the fuel pump in the tank run for one second when you turn on the key? Does the starter relay click when you try to crank it? If so is there power being sent to the S terminal on the starter? Are all fuses good? Did you try moving the shifter to neutral? Aside from those things you need some test equipment to go further. Good luck
Where are you located ?
Near Thunder Bay in Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 eh...
Hey man I was wondering. Where I could get the computer to get all this information my wife has a problem not cranking and can’t figure it out she said dealership charges 3k for a computer wiring
If you are looking for diagnostic information there are DIY resources on Alldata where you can pay as you go: www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/
If you are looking for a scanner there is no cheap full function scan tool AFAIK. The Maxiap 200 will do a network scan of all controllers but that will just give you possible direction through codes to use the service information to diagnose the root cause of the problem. 1. What has been done so far? 2. What exactly are the symptoms? 3. Was there any other work done to the vehicle prior this problem arising? 4. Year, Model, Engine displacement. Give me some details and I will try to help if I can...
@@PhillipBailey 2014 Silverado 5.3 4WD. Starter/battery r fine, Vehicle doesnt even attempt to crank it just clicks off when i turn the key, fuses are all in tack, i still have to grab a mulitmeter to verify the volts r going through them. She told me that the Power Steering had problems before it, but now it just doesnt do anything... been sitting for months now.
@@jacobandreoli9700 start by removing and cleaning the battery cable connections. Then charge and test the battery. If it still just clicks you will need to do a network scan for codes from all controllers. Check for power to the control wire on the starter solenoid when it clicks. If yes check the battery cable to the solenoid. If that is good likely needs a starter replacement. If there is no power to the S terminal on the solenoid then check the starter relay if it is clicking. Could be safety switch as well. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey already checked starter
@@jacobandreoli9700 are you getting a signal to the S terminal? if not can you get it to start by sending one there? How did you "check" the starter?
Where is this fuse box with the starter relay?
@danielstopka1313 the starter relay is in the underhood fuse box on the driver side fender. 5:40 in video
We have a 2015 Tahoe with push to start but similar symptoms an codes… hmmm
This truck actually returned a few weeks later for the same problem. I believe the problem was actually a voltage drop in the negative battery cable clamp crimp. Here is a video of that repair on the same truck...ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html
Since low voltage to various module will generate communication fault codes it's tough to diagnose. Since replacing the ground cable clamp the truck has never acted up again. Good luck...
This truck actually returned a few weeks later for the same problem. I believe the problem was actually a voltage drop in the negative battery cable clamp crimp. Here is a video of that repair on the same truck...ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html
Since low voltage to various module will generate communication fault codes it's tough to diagnose. Since replacing the ground cable clamp the truck has never acted up again. Good luck...
Mine was due to my new AFM disabler even though they claim it shouldn’t drain battery appreciably as long as truck doesn’t sit for a week or two. I drove my truck daily. Check for aftermarket things that have been added.
Absolutely!
Corrosion in all those pins in that fuse panel put a new panel in now my truck is 💯
Did this solve the issue? It's been five months,
Actually no it did not. Seemed good for a few weeks then acted up again. I believe I have resolved it though. ruclips.net/video/Rihux0_-pGg/видео.html
And this one
ruclips.net/video/pxciNpA-0B4/видео.html
So I came to realize the Vehicle does not recognize if the vehicle is in park or drive but I can’t figure out what to replace to fix that
how do you know this? Are you looking at Park/Neutral position in the ECM data? This comes from the Transmission Control Module via the CAN bus. If there is an issue with the BUS you should have no PRNDL display in the dash. Dose the PRNDL indicate the respective gear? Go into transmission data and have a look at the gear shift data. I believe it comes from an internal mode switch inside the transmission. Can you get it to start by turning on the ignition and bypassing the starter relay pins 30 and 87 (or 3 and 5). be careful to be sure it's in park. good luck
@@PhillipBailey it doesn’t not highlight what gear the truck is in
@@PhillipBailey I’ll check that later
The truck started to crank with the jump wire so that’s good news still not turning over
@@jacobandreoli9700 what are you using as a scanner? Can you do a network code scan of all controllers? Did you say the gear shift indicator is not working to indicate park etc?
It's ground off the battery I have had the same problem
You are correct. Found it the next time I checked it.
I'm three min. In and I'll tell you this...I still own mine. These trucks continue to pull and surge the batteries when the truck is off. I charge my battery every quarter and replace it every 2.5 years.
Don't rob a bank with these trucks, if you do....leave the engine running.
My not 4x4 my 2 well drive