pricey's shocks typically have springs on both sides of the piston, which one of them is a "droop spring" and fights the shocks extending. thats what all the info you gave him is for, so he knows what spring rates are needed to allow articulation when needed but help control body roll amongst other things. the spring setup for you rig may just be soft to allow that bit of extra sag of the axles after you wiggled the rig around in the air. i wouldnt worry about it, and as long as they are smooth as you drive the rig, theyre working as pricey intended imo. for tuning shocks (i run typical sprung setup, no internal droop springs so tuning is "easier" imo). i start with soft springs front/rear with 30wt oil if i have no idea where to start. then i install on rig and set desired shock angle and adjust spring rate if needed to get desired ride height for a baseline setup. drive for multiple sessions, taking note of any issues and overall feel of the rig, and also catch video if possible to analyze closer afterwards. make the needed adjustments to suit. if unsure on what to do, just start going one way or the other on front or rear independently depending where the issues seem to be happening, and if it gets worse, go the other way, and if it gets better, go till it gets worse pretty much lol. repeat over and over until rig performs as desired lol. it can be a very tedious process when you first start out, but the more you test and tune on various setups, the more you'll start to develop an idea of what you like out of your rigs and can almost nail it first try. the time invested for tuning can really suck, but it can give you a deeper understanding of how the rig can and should react in various scenarios, which may or may not be needed depending what youre doing with your rig (trailing or comp runs for example), so you gotta find the happy medium for your needs of each rig
Yeah I definitely trust what Pricey did. Look forward to getting more runs in for sure! Thanks for the breakdown as to how you tune your shocks! That makes sense, kinda nice to hear the process explained out! Lots of trial and error 😂 I’m building another rig, videos to come soon. I’ll probably put better shocks on that one too so I’ll try and tune those ones!
Steve Price of Priceys Custom, I live about half an hour away from him, met him a few months ago at the first Crawl event I've been too. Nobody running local comps, had guys (SEQRCC) from another state do a comp here, East Coast Crawl Fest. Was pretty great. Won a set of his shocks in the raffle, just got to sort rails for my class 1 so i can order them 😂.
That’s awesome thank you for watching all the way through each time! That means a lot. I’m kinda feeling like the shocks will break in, so glad to hear a couple of you agree!
So try 50-60 weight shock oil in the rear to slow it down. 35 in front. With those shocks Id recommend Deez bands at least on front possibly rear also to keep the front from unloading.. As far as your front tires rubbing, move your shocks forward and notch or two. I realize that will raise your cg but you differently don't want your tires rubbing on the shock.
Im sure you’ve noticed this by now but with the priceys get better once the seals break in ect, when they are new the are pretty stiff but after a hand full of runs the work them selves in
@@HobbyDrop i just got done watching your video comparing them with the big bores and heres a couple recommendations with them Run them in a bit more, they wont be working to their full potential until they have had a good couple weeks of use, kick the bottom of the shock towards the wheel about 3mm front and rear and maybe go towards the centre of the chassis 1 hole on the rear shock tower, front looks like its on a good angle. If you know are these 90s set to a 75mm ride height? That maybe be where your little lack of articulation is coming from but leaning them to the centre a little more should help that out. However what i will say is pricey shocks aren’t for everyone, some people they work for some people they don’t
@@joshuareglin9711 oh that’s solid advice and I appreciate you watching! Maybe I’ll try em on my Capra or gspeed. I’m liking the big bores on my reaper.
Nice video, always was curious about these shocks, never tried them. I use Dravtechs on my comp truck and they perform so well I don’t think I could ever switch them out lol.
Wicked rc how do u keep the dravs from unloading on steep climbs? I see some guys using shock bands and some say that’s a band aid. I’ve been running lizards with an internal spring. I’m want to try dravtechs but trying to learn about them first. Thanks
@@BigRaines1 I’m using 80mm shocks, so it doesn’t unload nearly as far as a 90mm shock. I have some deez shock bands but i haven’t gotten around to using them because the shocks do great just the way they are. I agree that limiting is like a bandaid, if flipping backwards is the issue, it’s more than likely because of center of gravity, link geometry, or even shock positioning. Every shock is going to unload on a very steep incline, just a matter of if the truck flips backwards or keeps pulling up the incline.
Not at all! I designed and printed it myself. I could do one for you if you’d like! (Find me on FB “Zack Adair” my profile picture is my hobby drop logo)
If they don’t flow smoothly in and out, out side the truck, then they have issues. To be honest shocks a very simple just have to do it 4x. If they are smooth outside the truck bing could be happening they seem to me close to the frame rails. The further out the shock is to the tire the more effective it will be. Also you rear link gemometry seems like it could use more riser in the rear uppers maby a couple more mm longer too
Ohhh ok so you would say space them away more….I could give that a try! What about the extra distance makes it perform better? And link risers…I’ll check thingiverse :) thanks for the suggestions!
pricey's shocks typically have springs on both sides of the piston, which one of them is a "droop spring" and fights the shocks extending. thats what all the info you gave him is for, so he knows what spring rates are needed to allow articulation when needed but help control body roll amongst other things. the spring setup for you rig may just be soft to allow that bit of extra sag of the axles after you wiggled the rig around in the air. i wouldnt worry about it, and as long as they are smooth as you drive the rig, theyre working as pricey intended imo.
for tuning shocks (i run typical sprung setup, no internal droop springs so tuning is "easier" imo). i start with soft springs front/rear with 30wt oil if i have no idea where to start. then i install on rig and set desired shock angle and adjust spring rate if needed to get desired ride height for a baseline setup. drive for multiple sessions, taking note of any issues and overall feel of the rig, and also catch video if possible to analyze closer afterwards. make the needed adjustments to suit. if unsure on what to do, just start going one way or the other on front or rear independently depending where the issues seem to be happening, and if it gets worse, go the other way, and if it gets better, go till it gets worse pretty much lol. repeat over and over until rig performs as desired lol. it can be a very tedious process when you first start out, but the more you test and tune on various setups, the more you'll start to develop an idea of what you like out of your rigs and can almost nail it first try. the time invested for tuning can really suck, but it can give you a deeper understanding of how the rig can and should react in various scenarios, which may or may not be needed depending what youre doing with your rig (trailing or comp runs for example), so you gotta find the happy medium for your needs of each rig
Yeah I definitely trust what Pricey did. Look forward to getting more runs in for sure!
Thanks for the breakdown as to how you tune your shocks! That makes sense, kinda nice to hear the process explained out! Lots of trial and error 😂 I’m building another rig, videos to come soon. I’ll probably put better shocks on that one too so I’ll try and tune those ones!
Just waiting for the Why Files at 6:00. And I get 14 minutes of the reaper with new shocks. Awesome, thanks for sharing.
What are “why flys”? :)
Thanks for watching I really appreciate you!
Steve Price of Priceys Custom, I live about half an hour away from him, met him a few months ago at the first Crawl event I've been too. Nobody running local comps, had guys (SEQRCC) from another state do a comp here, East Coast Crawl Fest. Was pretty great. Won a set of his shocks in the raffle, just got to sort rails for my class 1 so i can order them 😂.
Oh that awesome! Haha
Looks like it's crawling great with those shocks,very cool crawler dude 😎 👌 👍 😀
Thanks man!
To me it looks like they work great. And they may break in a little. Tires are working.
I still feel like if your doing comp lines droop is the way to go. If you run droop then you don't need the shock bands
Always a full view love your content, and I miss the Red Rocks of St George. I think the shocks will break in. Stay safe, my friend.
That’s awesome thank you for watching all the way through each time! That means a lot. I’m kinda feeling like the shocks will break in, so glad to hear a couple of you agree!
So try 50-60 weight shock oil in the rear to slow it down. 35 in front. With those shocks Id recommend Deez bands at least on front possibly rear also to keep the front from unloading.. As far as your front tires rubbing, move your shocks forward and notch or two. I realize that will raise your cg but you differently don't want your tires rubbing on the shock.
I have been contemplating deez bands. (Always good to support local guys). I wonder what oil weights are currently in my shocks. I’ll ask him. :)
Im sure you’ve noticed this by now but with the priceys get better once the seals break in ect, when they are new the are pretty stiff but after a hand full of runs the work them selves in
I’ll have to throw em on another rig. I took em off and just have em sitting.
@@HobbyDrop i just got done watching your video comparing them with the big bores and heres a couple recommendations with them
Run them in a bit more, they wont be working to their full potential until they have had a good couple weeks of use, kick the bottom of the shock towards the wheel about 3mm front and rear and maybe go towards the centre of the chassis 1 hole on the rear shock tower, front looks like its on a good angle.
If you know are these 90s set to a 75mm ride height? That maybe be where your little lack of articulation is coming from but leaning them to the centre a little more should help that out.
However what i will say is pricey shocks aren’t for everyone, some people they work for some people they don’t
@@joshuareglin9711 oh that’s solid advice and I appreciate you watching! Maybe I’ll try em on my Capra or gspeed. I’m liking the big bores on my reaper.
Best shocks out . I have them my self. Also you have them installed upside down
Haha I know, it lowers the CG I tiiiiiiny bit more :)
@@HobbyDrop I wonder if the internal springs are different stiffness top vs bottom? That could affect how they work.
@@adam_chevyss dude I switched to a traxxas 2660 set up and haven’t looked back
Nice video, always was curious about these shocks, never tried them. I use Dravtechs on my comp truck and they perform so well I don’t think I could ever switch them out lol.
Dravtech was a super popular one when I asked everyone what shock to go with. I may use those for my next build 🤷🏻♂️
Wicked rc how do u keep the dravs from unloading on steep climbs? I see some guys using shock bands and some say that’s a band aid. I’ve been running lizards with an internal spring. I’m want to try dravtechs but trying to learn about them first. Thanks
@@BigRaines1 I’m using 80mm shocks, so it doesn’t unload nearly as far as a 90mm shock.
I have some deez shock bands but i haven’t gotten around to using them because the shocks do great just the way they are. I agree that limiting is like a bandaid, if flipping backwards is the issue, it’s more than likely because of center of gravity, link geometry, or even shock positioning. Every shock is going to unload on a very steep incline, just a matter of if the truck flips backwards or keeps pulling up the incline.
Awesome video if you don't mind me asking where did you get that bed on that truck love it
Not at all! I designed and printed it myself. I could do one for you if you’d like! (Find me on FB “Zack Adair” my profile picture is my hobby drop logo)
7:15 ........this is one of the reasons you'll never get any better!
That’s true! One day I’ll tackle shocks….one day :)
@@HobbyDrop You have to love the crawlers...... Not just the followers.
@@rccrawlingaddict207 oh trust me, I love the crawlers, just not fiddling with shocks 😂
Im sure your shocks are 90% there but its that other 10% that you really have to work at. Im good with the 90
@@stevebuchanan5773 me too man, 90% is lots better than what I was running
If they don’t flow smoothly in and out, out side the truck, then they have issues. To be honest shocks a very simple just have to do it 4x. If they are smooth outside the truck bing could be happening they seem to me close to the frame rails. The further out the shock is to the tire the more effective it will be. Also you rear link gemometry seems like it could use more riser in the rear uppers maby a couple more mm longer too
Yea I think also where it’s mounter to the axle is too close causeing issues
Ohhh ok so you would say space them away more….I could give that a try! What about the extra distance makes it perform better?
And link risers…I’ll check thingiverse :) thanks for the suggestions!