This is a wonderful video!! Thank you for posting it. It's very helpful. I have a question though about safety. It seems to me that one can put the car up on four car ramps to be sure that the car is well supported. The only time that one needs the back wheels in the air is to calibrate the parking brake at the end (so that one can be sure that the wheels will turn). You needed to remove the rear wheel as you had to cut the parking cable, but if the cable is just stretched, not rusted, and can be removed easily, is there a reason to use car jacks and stands? Thanks for your advice.
For Volvo(s) not equipped with drum brakes: Even if the cables are not replaced, normally, it is recommended to jack-up the rear section of the vehicle to adjust the handbrake cable. For safety, the vehicle must be parked on a level surface and the front wheels blocked with wheel chocks. In this case, I always use jack stands Assuming the brake pads are properly positioned and not hot, I unclip the handbrake/lever gaiter and gain access to the adjusting nut. When the handbrake is in rest position and the protruding portion of the bolt threads is 7mm over the nut, I tighten the nut to obtain is a small friction between the brake pads and the rotors. Then I test the position of the handbrake lever. If or when the handbrake lever is properly lifted/positioned (+ locked) and the rear wheels cannot rotate anymore, the lever can be lowered and the adjusting nut tightened. After the handbrake lever is lifted again to double check the results. Usually, the parking brakes work properly after this second test. When a vehicle is not jacked up to test the friction between the brake pads and the rotors, there is less chance to properly adjust the parking brake cable. Many RUclips videos are available online if you want to watch generic cables adjustments with vehicles not equipped with parking drum brakes.
@@mtlcarguy Thank you! I appreciate the additional advice on adjusting the parking brake. I definitely will jack the rear of the car up to adjust the brake. I wanted to use car ramps for safety reasons as I trust them more than my car stands.
@@mtlcarguy Same as mine. I did the repair today. The trick with the heat shield helped a lot. Was surprised to see that the cables was fine but the holder for the two cables had come loose. The spotweld had failed on one side, so it was only partialy mounted to the chassi!
@@bynesetcustoms since the cables was ok on my car I did not have to replace them which saved me a lot of time. I just welded the holder back in place, took less than 1 hour. If cables are to be replaced my guess would be about 4 hours.
This is fantastic content!!
thank you - very good video
Great video thanks for posting .
This is a wonderful video!! Thank you for posting it. It's very helpful.
I have a question though about safety. It seems to me that one can put the car up on four car ramps to be sure that the car is well supported. The only time that one needs the back wheels in the air is to calibrate the parking brake at the end (so that one can be sure that the wheels will turn). You needed to remove the rear wheel as you had to cut the parking cable, but if the cable is just stretched, not rusted, and can be removed easily, is there a reason to use car jacks and stands? Thanks for your advice.
For Volvo(s) not equipped with drum brakes: Even if the cables are not replaced, normally, it is recommended to jack-up the rear section of the vehicle to adjust the handbrake cable. For safety, the vehicle must be parked on a level surface and the front wheels blocked with wheel chocks. In this case, I always use jack stands Assuming the brake pads are properly positioned and not hot, I unclip the handbrake/lever gaiter and gain access to the adjusting nut. When the handbrake is in rest position and the protruding portion of the bolt threads is 7mm over the nut, I tighten the nut to obtain is a small friction between the brake pads and the rotors. Then I test the position of the handbrake lever. If or when the handbrake lever is properly lifted/positioned (+ locked) and the rear wheels cannot rotate anymore, the lever can be lowered and the adjusting nut tightened.
After the handbrake lever is lifted again to double check the results. Usually, the parking brakes work properly after this second test.
When a vehicle is not jacked up to test the friction between the brake pads and the rotors, there is less chance to properly adjust the parking brake cable.
Many RUclips videos are available online if you want to watch generic cables adjustments with vehicles not equipped with parking drum brakes.
@@mtlcarguy Thank you! I appreciate the additional advice on adjusting the parking brake. I definitely will jack the rear of the car up to adjust the brake. I wanted to use car ramps for safety reasons as I trust them more than my car stands.
Thank you sir, good video and perfect timing. Need to do this work on my 2004 S40 2.4i. One question, what engine is in your car?
It is the Volvo 5 cylinder in-line, 2.4 litre
@@mtlcarguy Same as mine. I did the repair today. The trick with the heat shield helped a lot. Was surprised to see that the cables was fine but the holder for the two cables had come loose. The spotweld had failed on one side, so it was only partialy mounted to the chassi!
How long time did you use aprox if you remember?
@@bynesetcustoms since the cables was ok on my car I did not have to replace them which saved me a lot of time. I just welded the holder back in place, took less than 1 hour. If cables are to be replaced my guess would be about 4 hours.