Good work, and nice video! Btw., I too have a Volvo, but the S40, which is exactly the same car as the C30 from underneath. You mentioned that the ware on the rotors and pads was uneven, I bet the handbrake needed to go up several clicks too before it engaged to make a safe grip. That's because you have to reset the caliper piston while replacing the pads, many people don't know this, including your car's previous owner I believe, otherwise the ware would have been even. To reset the piston along with the handbrake mechanism during a brake/rotor job: - Slacken the handbrake cables by undoing the 10mm nut situated under the handbrake lever untill there is no more tension on the cables. (done from inside the car) - On each wheel side, release the handbrake cable from its mechanism on the caliper by grabing it's cap with forceps and pull to maneuver it out of its slot. (Looking at your rusty cables, you may need to replce those) - Now work the mechanism lever like a pair of scissors with you hand, or a tool if you find it too tough, or you could unmount the coil spring which makes it much easier to pump the lever, but that coil spring is a PITA to remount afterwards without a proper tool, and as you pump the lever by any means watch the brake piston expand outwards, continue to work the lever until the piston rubber boot is fully extended: ONLY now should you start pushing it back all the way in by applying pressure and simultaneously turning clockwise like you did in your vid. - And now your piston along with the handbrake mechanism are reset! After everything is reassembled, pump the brake pedal. The End 😁
Very helpful, key to winding the rear piston in is having the tool and applying pressure otherwise the piston will keep on spinning I found this out the hard way
Thank you and very well timed. I'm about to do this job on my winter-stored C30, anticipating emergency brake mechanism issues. The comment by Ghassan is very good to know, After 52+ years of Volvo ownership and DIY repairs, you're never too old to learn. I wonder why you bled the brake line after the rotor replacement? I never have done that except if I was replacing the caliper. BTW, I'm lucky to have a set of the piston retraction tools and a pressured bleeder - my daughter is 48 years young.
I love FCP Euro for parts and really like the efforts you all are making on your videos. That said, I'm blown away with the rookie DIY safety mistakes I'm seeing. Wear some protective gear please - safety glasses, gloves, etc. You're 80% of the way there - go all the way!
Mine is rusting the same way. I tried replacing the rear end links but they were so rusted to themselves I had to take it to a shop to get them cut off with a torch. I'd love to see a video that shows replacing the hubs and the brake shields!
Great video as always. Can you please make a video for dummies where you actually show the jacking points underneath the C30/V50, and where you should not jack.
@@fcpeuro Paused the video when it talked about a center jack point to see how many comments flagged doing that - but only this comment. Does rear center point also apply for C70s? And did you make on P1 Volvo jackpoints? (can't find it) Forums and other videos seem insistent has to be at side pinch seams near tires one at a time, not to mention pain getting stand right up to the jack. How you did it looks way easier
On my V50 I use the same technique as shown in this video. Put the jack right in the middle of the rear axle. The exhaust muffler sits rear of it and slightly lower, so I use a hockey puck between the jack and the axle. This way the jack's arm doesn't touch the muffler. Jack, puck and axle are all about the same size. My jack has a mechanical safety so I don't use jack stands. Been doing this twice a year to swap winter and summer wheels for the past 6 years, saved a bit of time doing it this way. The rear bumper should be closer to the axle on the C30 so that helps if your jack is a bit shorter like the one used in this video. Not sure about the C70s
9:47 the carrier bracket on my V50 had 1/2" hex head screws (12.5mm, not 13). Discovered it the hard way, measuring on the new fasteners (roughly $10 each at Volvo). Well, at least now I have a nice set of screw extractors in my tools collection ;-) Otherwise they're perfectly standard M10, in case you might want to clean up the threads in the carrier with a tap. The brake hose has a 3/8"-24NF thread, but takes a metric 14mm wrench to undo. Someone at FoMoCo must have had a bad night before they designed this brake system.
Wrong information above for the hose thread. Borrowed a 3/8" tap and die from work, and discovered this morning that the die does not fit the hose. So that thread is most likely M10x1, which is about 5% larger than 3/8-24NF.
@@fcpeuro Hmm. You can give her the car when she is old enough to drive. Maybe in 10 years. Let her flush the brake fluid while you are in the driver seat. What would you do? 😂
Buy the parts used in this video here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-disc-rear-s40-c70-c30-v50-30769113#fitment?
Good work, and nice video!
Btw., I too have a Volvo, but the S40, which is exactly the same car as the C30 from underneath.
You mentioned that the ware on the rotors and pads was uneven, I bet the handbrake needed to go up several clicks too before it engaged to make a safe grip.
That's because you have to reset the caliper piston while replacing the pads, many people don't know this, including your car's previous owner I believe, otherwise the ware would have been even.
To reset the piston along with the handbrake mechanism during a brake/rotor job:
- Slacken the handbrake cables by undoing the 10mm nut situated under the handbrake lever untill there is no more tension on the cables. (done from inside the car)
- On each wheel side, release the handbrake cable from its mechanism on the caliper by grabing it's cap with forceps and pull to maneuver it out of its slot. (Looking at your rusty cables, you may need to replce those)
- Now work the mechanism lever like a pair of scissors with you hand, or a tool if you find it too tough, or you could unmount the coil spring which makes it much easier to pump the lever, but that coil spring is a PITA to remount afterwards without a proper tool, and as you pump the lever by any means watch the brake piston expand outwards, continue to work the lever until the piston rubber boot is fully extended: ONLY now should you start pushing it back all the way in by applying pressure and simultaneously turning clockwise like you did in your vid.
- And now your piston along with the handbrake mechanism are reset! After everything is reassembled, pump the brake pedal.
The End 😁
Isla for the win! Horn honk…perfect! “Seal” perfect-er! Great vid!
Excellent video. I watch ever second. Can’t wait to start my stage 0. Thanks for work
Very helpful, key to winding the rear piston in is having the tool and applying pressure otherwise the piston will keep on spinning
I found this out the hard way
Thank you and very well timed. I'm about to do this job on my winter-stored C30, anticipating emergency brake mechanism issues. The comment by Ghassan is very good to know, After 52+ years of Volvo ownership and DIY repairs, you're never too old to learn. I wonder why you bled the brake line after the rotor replacement? I never have done that except if I was replacing the caliper. BTW, I'm lucky to have a set of the piston retraction tools and a pressured bleeder - my daughter is 48 years young.
Glad you have a helping set of hands!
This video was perfect! Thank you so much for posting this :) Will be replacing my calipers soon on a 08 T5 Volvo S40!
I love FCP Euro for parts and really like the efforts you all are making on your videos. That said, I'm blown away with the rookie DIY safety mistakes I'm seeing. Wear some protective gear please - safety glasses, gloves, etc. You're 80% of the way there - go all the way!
@@kurtlamprecht93 maybe a KN95 mask too haha
*Cardboard creepers for the win! Oh man, can relate to that. Cheers!*
Mine is rusting the same way. I tried replacing the rear end links but they were so rusted to themselves I had to take it to a shop to get them cut off with a torch.
I'd love to see a video that shows replacing the hubs and the brake shields!
Thats on the to do list, they were reallly reallly bad!
very professional, informative, impressed
Great video as always.
Can you please make a video for dummies where you actually show the jacking points underneath the C30/V50, and where you should not jack.
We sure can!
@@fcpeuro Paused the video when it talked about a center jack point to see how many comments flagged doing that - but only this comment. Does rear center point also apply for C70s? And did you make on P1 Volvo jackpoints? (can't find it) Forums and other videos seem insistent has to be at side pinch seams near tires one at a time, not to mention pain getting stand right up to the jack. How you did it looks way easier
On my V50 I use the same technique as shown in this video. Put the jack right in the middle of the rear axle. The exhaust muffler sits rear of it and slightly lower, so I use a hockey puck between the jack and the axle. This way the jack's arm doesn't touch the muffler. Jack, puck and axle are all about the same size. My jack has a mechanical safety so I don't use jack stands. Been doing this twice a year to swap winter and summer wheels for the past 6 years, saved a bit of time doing it this way. The rear bumper should be closer to the axle on the C30 so that helps if your jack is a bit shorter like the one used in this video. Not sure about the C70s
Really good / nice clear video. Thanks
9:47 the carrier bracket on my V50 had 1/2" hex head screws (12.5mm, not 13). Discovered it the hard way, measuring on the new fasteners (roughly $10 each at Volvo). Well, at least now I have a nice set of screw extractors in my tools collection ;-) Otherwise they're perfectly standard M10, in case you might want to clean up the threads in the carrier with a tap. The brake hose has a 3/8"-24NF thread, but takes a metric 14mm wrench to undo. Someone at FoMoCo must have had a bad night before they designed this brake system.
Wrong information above for the hose thread. Borrowed a 3/8" tap and die from work, and discovered this morning that the die does not fit the hose. So that thread is most likely M10x1, which is about 5% larger than 3/8-24NF.
Nice video, what is the size of the breeder hole? Thanks!
Thanks, zz wang. Usually 1/4" ID tubing will work fine. Or you can get this: www.fcpeuro.com/products/catch-bottle-kits-mot-1820
@@fcpeuro Thank you for your reply. And what size of wrench to use on the breeder on the front? Is it the same 10mm as the rear ones?
Spider spotting, @ 9:50. But for real, thank you for this, it was extremely helpful.
Our pleasure, Matt!
Your daughter is so funny.
She thought so too 😂
@@fcpeuro Hmm. You can give her the car when she is old enough to drive. Maybe in 10 years. Let her flush the brake fluid while you are in the driver seat. What would you do? 😂
So glad my c30 is a southern car. That CT rust is horrible
Ah, New England. Gives new meaning to the term, "rust belt."
Just rent the tool for free from your local auto parts store. Costs you nothing, even if you don’t buy the parts there.
100% valid option! It was a non option during lockdown/quarantine but under normal conditions its worth a tool rental.
front wheels should be chocked