Volvo P1 Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement DIY - (C30, C70, S40, & V50) 2005-2013* RNC Engine
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2020
- ► Nate Vincent is here today to show you how to replace your water pump, timing belt, tensioners, pulleys, camshaft sprocket seals, and oil pump seal on your dual VVT Volvo P1 5-cylinder engine. It is quite an extensive process, with little room to work. So follow along with Nate to get your engine resealed and leak-free!
Read this DIY on our blog: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repla...
Buy Parts and Tools Used In This Video:
Volvo Timing Belt Kit - Contitech 31251254KT
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
Volvo Oil Pump Gasket Kit - Genuine Volvo 274260
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
Volvo Camshaft Locking Tool - CTA-2864
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
Volvo Camshaft Seal Installation Tool - Baum V5718
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
Silicone Sealant (70 ml) - Corteco EVO300
www.fcpeuro.com/products/sili...
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Fits These Cars:
Volvo S40
2005 Volvo S40 i 2.4L L5
2005 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
2006 Volvo S40 2.4i 2.4L L5
2006 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
2007 Volvo S40 2.4i 2.4L L5
2007 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
2008 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
2008 Volvo S40 2.4i 2.4L L5
2009 Volvo S40 2.4i 2.4L L5
2009 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
2010 Volvo S40 2.4i 2.4L L5
2010 Volvo S40 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo S40 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo S40 T5 2.5L L5
Volvo V50
2005 Volvo V50 i 2.4L L5
2005 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
2006 Volvo V50 2.4i 2.4L L5
2006 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
2007 Volvo V50 2.4i 2.4L L5
2007 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
2008 Volvo V50 2.4i 2.4L L5
2008 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
2009 Volvo V50 2.4i 2.4L L5
2009 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
2010 Volvo V50 2.4i 2.4L L5
2010 Volvo V50 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo V50 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo V50 T5 2.5L L5
Volvo C70
2006 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2007 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2008 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2009 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2010 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2012 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
2013 Volvo C70 T5 2.5L L5
Volvo C30
2008 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2008 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2009 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2009 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2010 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2010 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2011 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2012 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2012 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
2013 Volvo C30 T5 2.5L L5
2013 Volvo C30 T5 R-Design 2.5L L5
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Just finished this...hardest part is definitely the waterpump/lower inner timing belt cover, it's just poorly placed and a snug fit. Everything else is pretty straightforward. I recommend getting a quality T30 bit. I sheared a bunch trying to get the cam position wheels off the back of the cams. Went through a bunch of dewalts, milwaukee's, and craftsmans...Makita's did it easy with my impact gun. Projectfarm also has a good video showing some of the best torx bits. For those that like to do everything by the book in terms of torques. 180Nm for the 30mm crank nut. The 4 bolts on the vibration dampener are torqued to 25Nm then an additional 60 degrees. U shape mount on the motor mount that bolts to the body is 90Nm. The engine mount to the engine bracket is 133Nm. Rear cam position wheels are 20Nm. Tensioner and Idler are both 24Nm. Waterpump and Oil pump are 10Nm. Cam gears to cams are 120Nm. Cam gear plugs are 35Nm. That should cover all the important torques.
Thank you!
Did you buy all the special tools too?
I salute you. Nicely done.
This was my first time finding an FCP video.
I've done lots of car work on my own, and watched tons of how-to videos, and have never seen anything close to this detail of steps taken, and great camera work as well. Well done!!
Thanks you so much for the kind words!
@@fcpeuro sorry to bother , all your stuff has been great I’m not a mechanic but I put new head on my c 30 did you mean that you had tention on drive side on timing belt or did you mean no tention you said you had very little tention
youtube university at its finest. Pure GOLD!
Whow to receive de tcm 2010 volvo C70 T5
Recet
This was super useful. Managed to change the belt on my Volvo C70 and I knew almost nothing about cars (until now!). Water pump removal and cam position wheel bolts were by far the hardest parts
I work on a lot of Cars , this might be the best most thorough and detailed video I have ever seen , thanks a Milllion .. !!
I agree
Thank you for watching!
Eternally grateful for this video I've worked on cars for a couple of years but this was my most intricate one yet. Watching this video at least 5 times throughout gave me the confidence to do it. I will also include the fact that the timing tensioner dial has to be maxed out to the right side then brought back to appropriate temperature adjustment and the cam locking tool is absolutely critical..for information sake I did a 2008 c70 with this information.. Thank you
Great video ! If anything, this should convince a volvo novice that this may not be the job you want to tackle without the right service tools and a very clear understanding of the job and its caveats. Pull the plugs and slowly rotate the engine twice before verifying that all the marks are lined up, No mistakes !
FINALLY! I've been waiting for a long time for a video of this quality on this job. THANK YOU!!!!
36:35 Carefully wrap duct tape around the crank spline, staggered pieces so it makes a smooth transition to the final step and resting place of the crank seal. Lube up your duct taped spline and ease the oil pump on it, carefully watching to make sure the crank seal does not turn inside out. I did this and it was easier than being a dentist with a pick, those seals are delicate and have an "o" spring inside, when it pops out its kinda hard to get it back in carefully. FCP Euro your the best! I love you guys!
Really tempted to give this a go considering the entire timing belt kit on FCP Euro is like 300 bucks vs paying for parts and 1k in labor... Great video.
Wow, what a great tutorial! This is the video I've been waiting on. After six months of having a timing belt kit sitting on the ol' workbench, its going onto the car! thank you fcp for all you do for us diy'ers.
Keep on keeping on+
Anyone I’m struggling with this tentioner it doesn’t want to seed in the block how far should it be in and should right side be tight? Mine loose having trouble getting Allen key on too I lowered engine
Best way to support these great people is to buy from theme.
They do have very fair prices and the customer service is top notch too.
My S60 was restored thanks to FCP Euro's videos and parts.
Now iim looking to do the same on an S40.
Agreed. Not only are their prices good but their customer service is second to none. When you call them, you actually talk to people who know how to work on these things. That's a BIG value in buying from them.
This video sets the standard. Pure excellence!
Great video! really clears up everything the service procedures do not cover! Thank you!
YOU SAVED MY LIFE WITH THIS VIDEO. IM A MOM AND POP SHOP TECH AND WE DONT GET MANY VOLVOS BUT YOU MADE THIS FIX EASY TO FOLLOW AND EVERYTHING WAS WELL EXPLAINED. YA HIRING LOL?
The cam facing side of the sensor wheels are marked IN and EX for intake and exhaust, for those who can't find their sharpie.
From France.... Biggest thx to you for your work!!!
That easy, hey!! Amazing video very well done as all FCP productions done by these gifted young professionals. Thanks a lot.
Wow!!!!! Fantastic video. Best instructional video ever! Congrats! I wish you had a video teaching how to replace the vvt hub.
👏 👏 👏 so thorough. We need more of this!
VERY GOOD VIDEO I LIKE HOW KNOWLEDABLE THIS PERSON IN VIDEO IS
Awesome video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I have a C30 R-Design and I have to do this work on it. Thank you so much for this incredible tutorial video! Peace!
Thanks for the video - made me decide to pass on a C30 needing this work...
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, information, and skill.
Gotta do the work on mine soon, this video helps out a lot! Glad I found this big lump of information plus the website has everything I need.
Glad it helped!
Please do a front subframe removal video next please! I havent found any writeups especially for the AWD p1 Volvos! Its extremely useful for getting to our downpipe and front sway bar as well!
Thank you very much Nate and FCP Euro
for your excellent tutorial video. You make a difficult job look easy. God bless you.
Glad it was helpful!
huge help just about to do my water pump in the 2002 C70
Great video here! Now all I need is to get the correct tools and I'm on my way! Thanks for this very informative video!
You got this!
Thank you so much for your video and your explanation of the process❤️
Nate this was one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen. I think I can do this with your great help. Thank you.
You've got this!
Fantastic video perfect camera work and editing, keep it up frends
Congrats my friend..great explanation and DIY...perfect...thanks a lot...
Awesome video!!! Thank you. I'm a fan!
This is a awesome DIY!!! GREAT WORK!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
What can you do if the engine is running but not timed correctly, and you want to retime it correctly.
Great video, keep up the good work.
Just completed this job thanks to this video. Amazing resource thanks so much for uploading it. One thing which would have helped was how much coolant is needed. I didn't buy enough😢... excellent video though
This is a great video. But setting up an engine rebuild I've noticed my intake cam (locked off with the proper tool at the back) that the sprocket is off about half a tooth.
From what I understand here is, the cams are set and really, other than convenience of the timing mark, the sprocket position doesn't matter? As such can I undo the sprocket and move it back half a tooth before putting the belt on, then tightening the sprocket after setting the tension?
Amazing video, do you think it's the same process for a 2014 volvo s60 t5?
Wauw perfect instruction.
Thumbs up👍
Excellent video looks like a big job
Volvooooo!!! Finally. Thanks
Lots of Volvo love on here recently!
@@fcpeuro receiving a 2005 Volvo S40 next week that has been sitting outside for 2-3 years so this is helpful!
I like to do the oil filter housing and thermostat along with this, complete refresh for my glorious T5s'
Please RSVP...I want this Guy to do it!! Very Very Smart Mechanic
Video really helped thanks
Do you have a video of replacing the head? My D5 S80 head cracked and debating whether I want to have a go at it myself or send it off to the mechanic
Great video, best I've seen for a timing belt. One question though - Why do you need to mark the sprockets if the cams are locked at TDC? I would think that if you release the tensioner, take off the old belt and replace the new one with the cams locked then once you unlock the cams you would have to be good to go, right?? Thx!
Nice video..thank you. What if i rolled the cam wheel backwards while putting on cam lock tool?
Thanks for video.
Is it possible to have a timing issue if I shredded my alternator belt? as I can’t get my Volvo to fire up after shredding my alternator belt.
I watched this about 9 times. About to knock it out.
You've got this Paul!
@@fcpeuro do I need to drain the oil first? I've looked and asked around and everyone says I don't have to
I´m so grate for your explanation. Thank you!
Thank YOU for the kind words Altair
Heck that was sick, was about to buy S40, first gen phase 2, but after watching how you much tear half of the car apart to change the timing belt I must reconsider :D
Its not so bad on the older ones, the new ones have a lot of wiring and shit everywhere and the engine bay is pretty narrower overall. And if youre changing just the belt you dont have to do a lot of the steps on the video
@@datsunalzheimer Was enough for me anyway, getting a Saab 900 1988 model :D
Fact! I'll stick with the P2 where there is some room to work, but still tiiiight.
Thanks for the great video! Wonder how would you set the camshaft sprocket position when you've had to replace them with new ones??? Thanks again!
Thanks a lot for the help! I'll do it in spring on a 99 C70 5254t LPT. Is there anything to consider in comparison to the S60 P1? Greetings from 🇦🇹/Vienna.
So I tried something interesting, I had an AI transcribe this video. Then I had ChatGTP write detailed instructions in the form of bullet points that are easy to follow as you do the job so you don't have to keep going back to the video unless you get stuck somewhere. I'm sure it has missed some details, but the point is for someone like me who has a terrible memory and possibly ADHD to be able to stay on task during a long and tedious task.
Here it is, I'm probably going to watch through the video one more time and make some edits and add some details in the near future. I hope you find this useful or at least interesting.
Replacing Timing Belt and Cam Seals on a P1 Volvo:
Preparation:
Gather tools: wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 19mm), Allen keys, torx bits (T25, T30, T55), screwdrivers, pliers, dead blow hammer, ratchet, sockets, torque wrench.
Obtain replacement parts: timing belt, cam seals, gaskets, Loctite, antifreeze/coolant.
Removal:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety.
Lift the car's front and secure with jack stands.
Remove the front passenger-side wheel.
Timing Belt Removal:
Detach accessory belts (AC, power steering) from pulleys.
Remove engine underbody panel.
Loosen and remove engine mount.
Remove upper front cover and crankshaft pulley.
Unscrew timing belt covers' fasteners and remove covers.
Mark camshaft sprockets and timing components.
Loosen tensioner and remove old timing belt.
Remove camshaft sprockets.
Cam Seals Replacement:
Remove old cam seals using pick or screwdriver.
Install new cam seals evenly using seal installation tool.
Clean camshaft and seal bore area thoroughly.
Reinstall camshaft sprockets, aligning with marks.
Timing Belt Installation:
Install new timing belt, aligning with reference marks.
Temporarily position tensioner and adjust tension.
Tighten tensioner bolt securely.
Double-check timing mark alignment.
Cam Phaser Installation:
Install exhaust and intake cam phasers.
Tighten cam phaser bolts using T30 torx bit.
Reassembly:
Reinstall engine mount and tighten bolts.
Reconnect wiring harnesses, hoses, brackets.
Securely install timing belt covers.
Reattach crankshaft pulley and upper front cover.
Reinstall accessory belts.
Lower the car and reinstall passenger-side wheel.
Fill coolant reservoir with antifreeze/coolant mixture.
Cooling System Burping:
Start engine to let air escape from cooling system.
Monitor coolant level and add more as needed.
Final Checks:
Inspect timing mark alignment.
Torque front wheel nuts properly.
Ensure all connections are secure.
Inspect engine bay for leaks or unusual noises.
Always refer to the specific service manual for accurate procedures and torque specifications.
Great video, love fcpeuro
We love you too Herby!
@@fcpeuro you should as much as I spend there🤣👍🤠
Can you tell me if there is a rear camshaft seal on both intake and exhaust mine had none my kit came with one, and when you did your belt bump count across the top what did you come up with 18 and what was your count down to the bottom of crank. by the way awesome video got mine running but turns off after a minute or two??????
Great video...thank you. I do have a question. I have got belt off and timing belt parts on. I am doing cam seals. The cam sprockets moved off mark while putting on cam lock tool on back. Can i just put everything back on marks and put belt on? The crank stayed on mark because i had it wedged with 30m and bar. I have not yet taken sprockets off to put on seals.
Do I need that cam holder or can I just position the cam back if it moves
I have a 2013 s60 and it looks exactly the same can I follow these same steps?
Thank you so much!
More than welcome zz wang.
I've got the plugs off the sprockets but I'm really struggling to get the nut off that holds the sprocket, I'm putting a lot of force but they won't budge. Is there any reason they might not want to budge?
Can u use this bleeding process with Audi 3.0t?
I have a question, do you let it be purged only by the expansion vessel?
Have an oil leak in the timing cover, does the vvt ever have issues with leaking?
Is the Idle Tensioner Pulley supposed to have about 2-3mm in-out movement? My xr5 turbo with the same engine has started making a bad rattle noise and I've checked everything else and it seems fine besides the in-out movement on the Timing Tensioner
Excellent thank you
Youre very welcome Michael
im changing my timing belt for the first time has done 65k miles. Will there be a markings for the timing belt?
Ok I'm curious. If your just replacing the water pump do you need to hold everything in position as in the video?
Great video.. thank you 🇹🇷🇹🇷
Happy to be of some help!
Any advice to get the 30mm crank nut off? I'm using a high quality impact driver with no luck. So far have only tried PB blaster and haven't tried heat. Wondering what else I can try to break this thing loose. Thanks in advance!
its possiblily already been asked, but how long will this take a profesional to do this job on a volvo C70 2.4 D5?
@fcpeuro would this work for a 2015 S60 2.5t?
Thanks 🙏
great video, but the Volvo I have has a single VVTI sprocket. I'm having trouble finding the timing marks
Snap 3 t30 the second t30 striped the intake cam bolt. The last one was a impact t30 with a impact gun and it snapped doing those rear cam bolts tried my forth t30 and a impact driver a hammer and I even used a torch with PB blaster and it still didn't come loose not sure who did this before but last resort is definitely welding a nut cause this is stupid for sure
This is such a great tutorial! I saw a few torque specs on the blog but it would be nice to have them all since there are many critical fasteners removed and re-installed during this procedure. I've done this job on my P2 S60 and although it is possible to push in the cam seals by hand or using a PVC coupler, that tool you use in this video is well worth the money when you consider you only really get one chance to put the seal in right. Do the cam sprocket bolts have red thread locker from the factory? That seems like it could be a problem if those sprockets need to come off again in the future. The red thread locker is tough to break and those bolts are already difficult to remove. Great job. Thanks!
Can anyone reply , on this timing belt video did he say he wants tention on right side and drive side of belt ? Because he said as you can see that there is very little tention on right side isnt that drive side he said has no problem with water pump side being loose
Hey joe I’m doing the job right now and I can’t possibly get the tension on the right side of the belt only the left no matter how many times I try to re do it the slack is always on the right
Hi Mr Nate or any one, please I have a V50, 220 cv, t5 2005, changed the pump assembly, the old fuel sensor burn and a I noted, the new one can happen the same. ?That´s normal the Sensor Level lift to the righ position simply introducing the start key in "0" position or when disconect the negative cable from the batterie?. Tanks for your help. Nice year 2021.
Correct place to look the Camshaft timing mark are on the top plastic cover, when it is in place. The factory marks are located there. Never trust the previous markings, if some one else has done those.
Nice tip thanks!
Give thanks BOSS
the kit you sell for this job also seems to come with the rear crank seal. video coming? lol
Hello! Thank you for a really informative and detailed video. Do you remember the engine code of that car you was working with?
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video! The engine code is B5254T7.
When putting the gaskets in place you can use a light mist of spray-on glue to hold them on to the pumps for a much easier install.
Good tip! Thanks!
Curious what Should this Cost to do by a reputable Dealership...I live in NYC..would love you to do this Exactly for my 2008 Volvo C30 Turbo 2.5 P1..are you available this spring
do you guys know if the engine needs to be taken out on the c30 2.4 180hp engine 2006? I am confused as some engines do not need it and then i hear the 2.4 needs its engine taken out.
My 30mm pulley bolt were seized and wont come out using impact gun, if i want to use breaker bar, how do i hold it to make it not spinning ?
Damn hella work! 😩
Should you run into the issue of not being able to get the cam position sensor bolt removed, you do not need to weld anything to it as mentioned. Just drill it out. Once the head of the bolt is drilled, the shaft can be removed by hand or with a pliers. 5 minutes each. Remove the battery to gain better access to the exhaust bolt.
Is the cam looking tool really necessary? As i saw on another video there are timing marks all over the engine for the crank shaft pulley and for the cam gears too..the cam gear marks are on the plastic cover that you take off towards the cylinder number 1. So if you aling your cam gears to the mark on the plastic cover and crank shaft to the mark on the block. You are good.
Now that I saw how it's done, I'm not going to do it. Ouch, it is kind of tricky.
My volvo s40 2004 aircon doesnt work properly by blowing cool air during mid day. Only cool in mornings.
I did check the aircon gas is ok.
Cool !
Thank you for the video! One question, do I need to drop the oil before doing this job?
NO need unicast
I am getting impression that it is much harder to work around S40 (or P1 in general) in comparison with P2. Specifically I looked at timing belt job and PCV fix on 2001-2009 S60 and looks like it is somewhat less complicated. Am I right?
My daughter has a 2011 C70, and I've done a number of Japanese timing belts in the past, and hope to do hers as well. Is there a link to the camshaft tool kit? It is SO hard to sort out Volvo tools and parts.
I've not done a timing belt, but as mentioned above, are the cam sprockets that easy to accidently turn? And why not just use the dots of paint markers?
Leaking cam seals often are due to a groove worn into the surface of the vvt sprocket's lip and not necessarily a failed rubber seal. Replacing the seals in that scenario will not fix your leak. The groove has to be removed or covered with a sleeve. There are often "ready sleeves" available for this problem.
I used a little trick for it - carefuly reduce thick of new o ring by 0,5 mm on inner side - it will not affect seal ability and blade goes outside the groove. Still no leak after 80 thousands km.
20:04 what's that tool in your hand @FCP Euro? Can't find it anywhere. The tool to "lock" or prevent turning.
The tool plaved between the two bolts? just a small pry bar
Any torque specs sheet ?
Great vid. I want to understand it but I don't think I could do it myself. I got 50000km more to go.
Same here if I had a hoist and a workshop I might try it but I’ll just take it to a Volvo mechanic.
I just wanted to know how not to keep braking the tensioner pulley where Allen key goes in and did he mean no tention on drive side said that wanted lots of tention on drive side but in video said see how there is very little tention
I am Very Curious?? Do you have an actual Shop where I could bring my 2008 C 30 Turbo ?? I live in Bennington Vt...WOULD LOVE FOR you Guys to do an Timing belt and Alt water pump Preventative Maintenance
Hi Greg! Unfortunately we dont do any work on customer cars, We love your Volvo though!