Great video. I'll get a locking tool and see how far out the timing is. I had to do an emergency water pump change myself and obvs. got the belt and tensioners, but did the job without the locking tool. The car is a bit slow at the top end. I think I know what my problem is now!
6:50 Just looking through these vids again and a word about using an impact driver like this one. If it's a cheaper one then make sure it moves freely. You want all the energy from the hammer to go into the turning force. The one I bought was burred inside not allowing smooth movement so I had to take it apart then dremel it with a barrel sanding bit to clean it up then I greased it with moly grease. There are ball bearings inside so watch out for them falling out. Easy job and you end up with a far better tool.
You pressed the pin in with the crankshaft holder tool then 1 minute later said that's its pressed in because its been off before. Apart from that excellent video
no, they can be left on the camshafts and remove the cams complete from the cylinder head. But normally one replaces the camshaft oil seals if doing a head gasket replacement so then you would usually take the pulleys off to do that rather than working the seals over each cam lobe.
Fantastic video! The alternator belt failed on mk2 XR5t and it appears a peice of it went into the timing belt, threw the timing out and now i may have to pull the head and replace some valves, hopefully just the exhaust side. The OBD is throwing the code for bad correlation between crank and cam shafts so as far as i can tell the cams are still timed together but the crank has advanced itself out of time (hopefully only slightly). When I tried to start it after the failure there was no surging from compression, just a smooth rotation. Do you have any advice?
Yep its just the bolt tension that stops them from moving. Its becoming a more common engine design to be honest as by doing it that way if you dont have the bolts done up tight as you set the tensioner up it will apply tension evenly across the whole timing belt rather than just between the exhaust camshaft and the crank and have no slop between crank and intake cam. The only danger is if you forget to torque them up properly. The older Zetec engine is like that too
Came here to see about the trigger wheels, both bolts absolutely seized, not enough room for an impact driver and hammer, and good to know its not a left hand thread thank god
they are a super fine thread and go tight AF on their own. If you remove the battery and battery box you'll have enough room to swing a hammer and a impact driver. Do not use a gun on them, you'll round the head of the bolt or snap your T30 95% of the time. If heads already rounded, get a sharp punch and make a decent indentation off to one side then on the head of the bolt then using a slightly blunt punch fit it into the hole and try tapping the bolt loose . Can buy new bolts from Ford or Volvo. Part number is W 712096 S443
Hey! Do you know why my timing belt tensioner is going over to the right mark like engine is ”+70 celsius”? We tightened it to +20 celsius with 25Nm, but after 2 engine rotations it show that fork is like ”+70” celsius?
usually its because of uneven tension across the whole belt as the tensioner can only take the slack out between the exhaust cam pulley and the crank. Try resetting it again, if its still the same after a 2 rotations, fit the cam locking tools to the camshafts so that they cant move, then remove the VVT pulley caps and crack off the VVT pulley bolts so that the pulleys can move freely, then apply the correct tension and it should tension across the entire belt. Then tighten up the pulley bolts, remove the locking tools and try doing 2 rotations again.
yes mate same process but the AUX drive belt setup is different, there is only 1 tensioner and a stretch belt on the Mondeos instead of 2 tensioners like the Focus has
do you mean the turbo oil feed pipe? That's the only external oil feed aside from the oil filter housing and pressure switch. If you have oil behind the camshaft pulleys its most likely the camshaft oil seals leaking from the pulleys being scored
Okay GRRRRR I tried the impact driver on my cam trigger wheel and the torx bit head snapped off flush in the bolt. Tied the convention way on the other bolt and it immediately snapped the end off my new torx bit. Went and got another T30 bit and same. (Probably because they are the security type with the hole in the centre they are weaker??) What do you guys that have been in this position do? Eziout? Cheers
grab a small punch and sharpen it then tap an indentation into the head of the bolt with it nice and deep at about the 9 O'clock position. Then using the same size punch but not quite as sharp place it into the hole and tap downwards to undo the bolt. It will most likely start to peel the head of the bolt.... dont worry itl break free. And yep dont use security torx bits they are a lot weaker than solid
@@Bahcoboy no, normal right hand thread so turn anti clock wise to undo. Check your tool is set in the undo position after each strike (they can jump into neutral sometimes)
Thanks for another great video which will help out a lot of people.My Mondeo XR5 is due for timing belt soon. Is it totally necessary to lock the cams and crank off, even if I don't touch the cam seals, as they are still good?
Yes I would mate. Some people dont....and it will never be 100% correct in the timing. The ECU will adjust the cams to a point via the VVT but if it has to adjust .5 degree 1 way it then wont be able to do its full travel in the opposite way so you would lose performance as a result. I'm a big believer in using locking tools as then its 100% every time.
@@petert696 online is usually cheapest. Search for 2.5 Volvo ones. Some kits come with extra bits to do other engines, you just need the crank lock pin and cam ones same as shown and youre sweet
If new sprockets have no markings then what is exactly the way to find its proper alignment points? And why do we need to lock the crankshaft? Normally it's a hassle to get to that hole when engine is not out like here.
17:26 covers how to line up and put markings onto new pulleys. You should lock the crankshaft as the locking pin prevents the crankshaft from rotating anti clock wise as you pull up tension on the timing belt to go from the crankshaft to the intake pulley. Access for the locking pin is simple in car, you just need to remove the starter motor which is 2x13mm studs, 13mm nut for 12v feed & 10mm nut for trigger wire (5mins to remove starter)
@@mrhuss4939 That will only hold the cams together. They may stay in place if youre lucky but probably wont as there will be a valve open so there will be spring pressure trying to push the cams upwards (they dont sit flat in the cylinder head when you lay them down onto it due to this which is why the cam cover bolts need to be tightened a lil bit at a time in a specific order to clamp it all down evenly)
Great video, and I was unable to get a hold of a crankshaft holder tool so ended up making my own 😂 Aside from that, I've had a reoccurring issue with the left cam end cover popping off, its happened twice now. And although i used OEM caps, both times I've been able to press them in with my fingers, not needed a hammer at all, is this normal? I also know its not the PCV as i replaced it less than 5000km ago and there's no PCV noise. Any ideas what could be causing excess pressure in the head all of a sudden or is it just a bad fit up and needs a little sealant or locktite to keep it in? Cheers mate
@OEMDeniedPerformance Interesting... I bought them off Focus on performance as well, definitely was nice and dry and cleaned with brake cleaner. So long as it's not a bigger issue, I lost my patience and used some thread locker around the seal this time so should hold 😂
@@motardbrah7768 thread locker wont hold. Thread locker isnt a glue like that. If anything it will probably act the opposite and act as a lubricant so will fall back out. Somethings not quite right on your setup, need to check caps are indeed flat, measure hole & compare against caps.
@OEMDeniedPerformance Oh shit... I'm not sure what you mean by flat exactly, are you referring to the front to back thickness of the cap or across the diameter of it like an imperfect circle? The next thing I'm considering is installing a small makeshift bracket across the front of the cap to retain it in the same manner as the right hand cap is by the existing bracket lol
@@motardbrah7768 if you take the cap off and lay it on its back on a table it should sit dead flat. I mention this as sometimes when fitting, people push them in from the center which can bow them slightly so its no longer a tight fit (thats what Ive found when vehicles have come in and they have had the caps pop out so worth double checking) Might be easier to just call the workshop if unsure
Great video, the best info for servicing those engines. I have a question, what about the front crank seal? Some also recommend changing the oil pump seals as well. What is your experience changing those seals and how often they fail? Thanks.
never seen one leak myself. Only time I change crankshaft seal on one of these is when building an engine as always replace the oil pump which comes with new crankshaft seal & O ring pre fitted, it bolts on with a new gasket.
Is it 100% the Camshaft Adjuster pulleys will have that score mark? Or is there a chance it is just the seals. Those Camshaft Adjuster pullys are way too expense. Thanks
@@OEMDeniedPerformance There is oil all over the cam belt covers, and the top of the engine under the engine cover. All down the side of the cam belt. I have to asume its cam seals. It loses 1/2 litre oil over a few months. I don't think any PCV issues. I don't drive hard, it's stock everywhere.
I personally always drop engine and gearbox out the bottom when have to cylinder head but I do that because can drop driveline out complete in under an hour now and then just sit in a chair to do the work rather than being bent over all day (getting old) it also enables you to have everything nice a clean, gives you lots of room to work with but if doing in car have a lot of brake cleaner and clean rags. Cleaning everything takes the longest amount of time tbh. Are you doing with car on a lift/hoist or jacks and axle stands?
if you mean exhaust cam is where intake cam should be and intake cam is where exhaust cam should be then no. Physically impossible to be fitted like that. The camshaft trigger wheels for camshaft sensors are sided and arent interchangeable with each other due to locating cut outs. Skip to 23:55, note that both have cut outs for locating but exhaust cam cut out is at 5 o'clock position, intake cam cut out is at 2 O'clock. The trigger wheels also have part numbers stamped on them, timing tools also dont fit centrally if cams have been mixed up. Intake 8658597 Exhaust 8658598
@@leedesmond1617 the camshaft pulleys are an interference fit, there is no key way on them. If you loosen the bolt holding them to the camshafts the pulley will turn but the camshaft will stay stationary. The markings on them are for initial assembly only - new pulleys dont come with marks. You have to put them on yourself when installing. (why you time the engines up using the timing tools as they mount to the camshafts themselves) 17:15 mark in video covers this
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Great video. I'll get a locking tool and see how far out the timing is. I had to do an emergency water pump change myself and obvs. got the belt and tensioners, but did the job without the locking tool. The car is a bit slow at the top end. I think I know what my problem is now!
6:50 Just looking through these vids again and a word about using an impact driver like this one. If it's a cheaper one then make sure it moves freely. You want all the energy from the hammer to go into the turning force. The one I bought was burred inside not allowing smooth movement so I had to take it apart then dremel it with a barrel sanding bit to clean it up then I greased it with moly grease. There are ball bearings inside so watch out for them falling out. Easy job and you end up with a far better tool.
Another great video Jamie ... Thank you!
Love the vids, can you perhaps do a start to finish of doing the block mod while the motor is in the car as I would like to attempt this myself.
You pressed the pin in with the crankshaft holder tool then 1 minute later said that's its pressed in because its been off before. Apart from that excellent video
good spot mate! Totally didnt realise that!
Great video. Just wanted to ask if the VCT pulleys definitely have to come off to remove the head, as I can’t see a reason why
no, they can be left on the camshafts and remove the cams complete from the cylinder head. But normally one replaces the camshaft oil seals if doing a head gasket replacement so then you would usually take the pulleys off to do that rather than working the seals over each cam lobe.
Ahh ok thought so, thanks for the reply
Fantastic video! The alternator belt failed on mk2 XR5t and it appears a peice of it went into the timing belt, threw the timing out and now i may have to pull the head and replace some valves, hopefully just the exhaust side. The OBD is throwing the code for bad correlation between crank and cam shafts so as far as i can tell the cams are still timed together but the crank has advanced itself out of time (hopefully only slightly). When I tried to start it after the failure there was no surging from compression, just a smooth rotation. Do you have any advice?
Nice video, good filming.
The pulley nut is a nightmare without a airgun
It's a nightmare with an air gun too
Beautifull job!!!
Thanks 😊
I would have thought that the Cam pulleys would have been keyed to the am shafts?? Is it just bolt tension that keeps them aligned?
Yep its just the bolt tension that stops them from moving. Its becoming a more common engine design to be honest as by doing it that way if you dont have the bolts done up tight as you set the tensioner up it will apply tension evenly across the whole timing belt rather than just between the exhaust camshaft and the crank and have no slop between crank and intake cam. The only danger is if you forget to torque them up properly. The older Zetec engine is like that too
Came here to see about the trigger wheels, both bolts absolutely seized, not enough room for an impact driver and hammer, and good to know its not a left hand thread thank god
they are a super fine thread and go tight AF on their own. If you remove the battery and battery box you'll have enough room to swing a hammer and a impact driver. Do not use a gun on them, you'll round the head of the bolt or snap your T30 95% of the time. If heads already rounded, get a sharp punch and make a decent indentation off to one side then on the head of the bolt then using a slightly blunt punch fit it into the hole and try tapping the bolt loose . Can buy new bolts from Ford or Volvo. Part number is W 712096 S443
@@OEMDeniedPerformance Nice one cheers mate ill give that a go 👍
Hey! Do you know why my timing belt tensioner is going over to the right mark like engine is ”+70 celsius”? We tightened it to +20 celsius with 25Nm, but after 2 engine rotations it show that fork is like ”+70” celsius?
usually its because of uneven tension across the whole belt as the tensioner can only take the slack out between the exhaust cam pulley and the crank. Try resetting it again, if its still the same after a 2 rotations, fit the cam locking tools to the camshafts so that they cant move, then remove the VVT pulley caps and crack off the VVT pulley bolts so that the pulleys can move freely, then apply the correct tension and it should tension across the entire belt. Then tighten up the pulley bolts, remove the locking tools and try doing 2 rotations again.
Nice vídeo. Regards from México ;)
Great video!! Can you do a video of crankshaft seal replacement?
Is urs leaking?i have same problem
Great and very helpful video. Will the same replacement be done in Mondeo Mk4 2.5T 2007 220km? Thanks
yes mate same process but the AUX drive belt setup is different, there is only 1 tensioner and a stretch belt on the Mondeos instead of 2 tensioners like the Focus has
Awsome vidz, do you have any showing the turbo oil feeder pipes, think I may have some oil leaking from back there
do you mean the turbo oil feed pipe? That's the only external oil feed aside from the oil filter housing and pressure switch. If you have oil behind the camshaft pulleys its most likely the camshaft oil seals leaking from the pulleys being scored
Okay GRRRRR I tried the impact driver on my cam trigger wheel and the torx bit head snapped off flush in the bolt. Tied the convention way on the other bolt and it immediately snapped the end off my new torx bit. Went and got another T30 bit and same. (Probably because they are the security type with the hole in the centre they are weaker??)
What do you guys that have been in this position do? Eziout? Cheers
grab a small punch and sharpen it then tap an indentation into the head of the bolt with it nice and deep at about the 9 O'clock position. Then using the same size punch but not quite as sharp place it into the hole and tap downwards to undo the bolt. It will most likely start to peel the head of the bolt.... dont worry itl break free. And yep dont use security torx bits they are a lot weaker than solid
@@OEMDeniedPerformanceHello! Is those bolts left handed? I cant get it out, with even that hammer tool.
@@Bahcoboy no, normal right hand thread so turn anti clock wise to undo. Check your tool is set in the undo position after each strike (they can jump into neutral sometimes)
What would be the interval for the timing? just did mine like 50 000km ago.
In Australia its every 180k or every 10 years - whichever comes soonest
Thanks for another great video which will help out a lot of people.My Mondeo XR5 is due for timing belt soon. Is it totally necessary to lock the cams and crank off, even if I don't touch the cam seals, as they are still good?
I just watched it again, and I think you answered my question.
Yes I would mate. Some people dont....and it will never be 100% correct in the timing. The ECU will adjust the cams to a point via the VVT but if it has to adjust .5 degree 1 way it then wont be able to do its full travel in the opposite way so you would lose performance as a result. I'm a big believer in using locking tools as then its 100% every time.
@@OEMDeniedPerformance great thanks Jamie. Where can I buy these locking tools from?
@@petert696 online is usually cheapest. Search for 2.5 Volvo ones. Some kits come with extra bits to do other engines, you just need the crank lock pin and cam ones same as shown and youre sweet
@@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks for taking the time to reply. Legend
If new sprockets have no markings then what is exactly the way to find its proper alignment points?
And why do we need to lock the crankshaft? Normally it's a hassle to get to that hole when engine is not out like here.
17:26 covers how to line up and put markings onto new pulleys.
You should lock the crankshaft as the locking pin prevents the crankshaft from rotating anti clock wise as you pull up tension on the timing belt to go from the crankshaft to the intake pulley. Access for the locking pin is simple in car, you just need to remove the starter motor which is 2x13mm studs, 13mm nut for 12v feed & 10mm nut for trigger wire (5mins to remove starter)
Have you got a how to for the rocker cover seal? Can I do it without removing the cams?
no sorry, but yes you will need to remove the cams as the rocker cover is what holds the cams in place.
@@OEMDeniedPerformanceokay thank you
Do you think I can use the cam locking tool to hold it down?
@@mrhuss4939 That will only hold the cams together. They may stay in place if youre lucky but probably wont as there will be a valve open so there will be spring pressure trying to push the cams upwards (they dont sit flat in the cylinder head when you lay them down onto it due to this which is why the cam cover bolts need to be tightened a lil bit at a time in a specific order to clamp it all down evenly)
@@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks appreciate the help
Great video, and I was unable to get a hold of a crankshaft holder tool so ended up making my own 😂
Aside from that, I've had a reoccurring issue with the left cam end cover popping off, its happened twice now. And although i used OEM caps, both times I've been able to press them in with my fingers, not needed a hammer at all, is this normal?
I also know its not the PCV as i replaced it less than 5000km ago and there's no PCV noise. Any ideas what could be causing excess pressure in the head all of a sudden or is it just a bad fit up and needs a little sealant or locktite to keep it in? Cheers mate
Id say you either have bad end caps, its not totally dry and free of oil & grease when going in or they are no longer flat.
@OEMDeniedPerformance Interesting... I bought them off Focus on performance as well, definitely was nice and dry and cleaned with brake cleaner. So long as it's not a bigger issue, I lost my patience and used some thread locker around the seal this time so should hold 😂
@@motardbrah7768 thread locker wont hold. Thread locker isnt a glue like that. If anything it will probably act the opposite and act as a lubricant so will fall back out. Somethings not quite right on your setup, need to check caps are indeed flat, measure hole & compare against caps.
@OEMDeniedPerformance Oh shit... I'm not sure what you mean by flat exactly, are you referring to the front to back thickness of the cap or across the diameter of it like an imperfect circle?
The next thing I'm considering is installing a small makeshift bracket across the front of the cap to retain it in the same manner as the right hand cap is by the existing bracket lol
@@motardbrah7768 if you take the cap off and lay it on its back on a table it should sit dead flat. I mention this as sometimes when fitting, people push them in from the center which can bow them slightly so its no longer a tight fit (thats what Ive found when vehicles have come in and they have had the caps pop out so worth double checking) Might be easier to just call the workshop if unsure
Great video, the best info for servicing those engines. I have a question, what about the front crank seal? Some also recommend changing the oil pump seals as well. What is your experience changing those seals and how often they fail? Thanks.
never seen one leak myself. Only time I change crankshaft seal on one of these is when building an engine as always replace the oil pump which comes with new crankshaft seal & O ring pre fitted, it bolts on with a new gasket.
@@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks
nice vidio thanks
Tensioner adjusted clockwise?
yes
Got a few engines in the background
Is it 100% the Camshaft Adjuster pulleys will have that score mark? Or is there a chance it is just the seals. Those Camshaft Adjuster pullys are way too expense. Thanks
yet to see faulty seal myself. Been working on the cars since they were new
@@OEMDeniedPerformance There is oil all over the cam belt covers, and the top of the engine under the engine cover. All down the side of the cam belt. I have to asume its cam seals. It loses 1/2 litre oil over a few months. I don't think any PCV issues. I don't drive hard, it's stock everywhere.
Any tips on pulling the head in car?
I personally always drop engine and gearbox out the bottom when have to cylinder head but I do that because can drop driveline out complete in under an hour now and then just sit in a chair to do the work rather than being bent over all day (getting old) it also enables you to have everything nice a clean, gives you lots of room to work with but if doing in car have a lot of brake cleaner and clean rags. Cleaning everything takes the longest amount of time tbh. Are you doing with car on a lift/hoist or jacks and axle stands?
Volvo 💪🏻
Good video but he don’t said anything about the torque that the parts gets
as per the video description, all torque setting are at the end of the video ;)
Think ya cams are back to front just checked mine and mine gone in how they come out and timing is back to front on cams Compared to ya video
if you mean exhaust cam is where intake cam should be and intake cam is where exhaust cam should be then no. Physically impossible to be fitted like that. The camshaft trigger wheels for camshaft sensors are sided and arent interchangeable with each other due to locating cut outs. Skip to 23:55, note that both have cut outs for locating but exhaust cam cut out is at 5 o'clock position, intake cam cut out is at 2 O'clock. The trigger wheels also have part numbers stamped on them, timing tools also dont fit centrally if cams have been mixed up.
Intake 8658597
Exhaust 8658598
@@OEMDeniedPerformance it's wierd my cams are in right position but the cam wheels are back to front for timing mark compared to yours
@@OEMDeniedPerformance as in timing marks on mine are same as yours but on different sides
@@leedesmond1617 the camshaft pulleys are an interference fit, there is no key way on them. If you loosen the bolt holding them to the camshafts the pulley will turn but the camshaft will stay stationary. The markings on them are for initial assembly only - new pulleys dont come with marks. You have to put them on yourself when installing. (why you time the engines up using the timing tools as they mount to the camshafts themselves) 17:15 mark in video covers this
Thanks mate so as long as I use the cam lock tool I can't go wrong yeah 👍