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The electronic smart junction box provides the current to 4 different wires that go to the HI and LOW headlamp bulbs. If the right side LED headlight bulb works without a CAN Bus decoder, Maybe there is a short to ground in the right circuit that increases the amount of current close to normal tungsten filament condition with your LED headlight installed without a CAN Bus decoder. A short to ground condition combined with the added current used by the CAN Bus decoder could trigger an abnormal signal in the smart junction box and turn this circuit off for protection. In this case, I would inspect the integrity of the electrical wiring and the connectors. I can be wrong, but, I found a problem similar to this a long time ago on a vehicle I inspected. Good luck!

The headlights are controlled directly by the TIPM without fuse. The left low beam is powered by the TIPM connector C4/pin 4 and the right low beam by the TIPM connector C5/pin 3 Check this link: www.jeeppatriot.com/threads/driver-headlight-not-working-2011-patriot.339246/

@@mtlcarguy 😊Spot on mtlcarguy....great solution... TIPM C5/pin3 was bent during replacing TIPM...no continuity to pin 1 of headlight connector. Straightened pin , all working. Thanks.

Mine is FWD. I don't know the difference. Check with your local Volvo Dealer or check with Rockauto or Davico: davicomfg.com/catalog/

There is no fuse used for the front whippers or the rear whipper. The motor of the front whippers is controlled by 3 electrical wires coming from the TIPM (C11 pin 10, C11 pin 12, C2 pin 5) and the fourth wire is a ground.

The OBD1 P28 ECU doesn't support any scan tool bidirectional control functions. I only use it to read the live data output from the ECU pin D7 (TxD/RxD Transmit Data/Receive Data Link). The bidirectional controls were introduced with the OBD2 functions in 1995.

Jeep recommends this procedure to release the fuel pressure. 1. Remove the lower rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the fuel pump module cover. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump module. 4. Start and run the engine until it stalls. 5. Attempt restarting the engine until it will no longer run. 6. Turn the ignition key to OFF position. 7. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 8. Later, when the work is fully completed, if needed, use a scan tool (OBD2) to erase one or more related DTC that could have been stored.

Beautiful thank you

I do not troubleshoot electronic problems online. Mechanics use diagnosis tools and expertise to solve this kind of problem. You still have the choice to talk to another local mechanic to get a second opinion. You can also take a look at my other video about TIPM: ruclips.net/video/OvJU_un4N84/видео.html

When a Jeep Patriot sits on an even ground, the spacing that is measured can be different from an other Jeep Patriot because the rear coil springs load capacity can be different. Some models can have a higher or lower load rating and there is also a difference load capacity between old and new coil springs. So use the average of your measurement to lift the center hub and tighten the bushing to recreate your average suspension measurement. When all the work is completed and the vehicle is sitting normally, your rubber bushings should not be torn and they should last without braking early.

​@@mtlcarguy thank you friend. I appreciate you being there. Got it all done except for the lateral arm cam bolts need to be cut out. Having some extreme tire wear on the inner rear.

Im having the same issue on my 2014 Patriot. I haven't done the struts yet but Ive been thinking about it. I'm wondering if it's something else. My sway bar bushings appear to be in good shape and the links look ok. I bought a couple cans of fluid film to spray all of the rubber bushings. I've heard it's very common on these. I guess a common issue is the parking brake/mounting bushings and trailing arm bushings are likely suspects but to me it sounds like the rear shocks ecspecially the passenger side ....

If I have to fix one, yes! But now, I am busy with non related projects.

Most of the time, a harmonic balancer is not damaged when it happens. If a harmonic balancer is damaged, it is not realigned, it needs to be replaced by a known good one.

I got this 8in. puller more than 20 years ago and there is no brand name on it. To make it safer to use with drums and rotors, I modified it as you can see in an other video I made. Ref.: ruclips.net/video/9dVutRXpiAo/видео.html Note: A real ''brake drum and rotor puller'' is quite expensive but it is a better and safer tool to perform the task.

The Honda delSol was factory built with a flow-through ventilation system. This system allows the air to flow or circulate between the passenger compartment and the trunk. The excess of air pressure can also be evacuated via the rubber vent flaps behind the rear bumper. The passenger compartment vent grills are located on the 2 lower side of the rear locking compartment. Because I did remove a section my trunk trim panel to fit the subwoofer box and I also because I perforated multiple small holes in non visible sections of the trunk trim panel, there was a basic air flow available. For those reasons the trunk was not sealed and not causing standing waves. Nevertheless after your comment, I took the time to install a cosmetic vent grill on each side of the trunk trim panel to improve the air flow.

@mtlcarguy I wish they would atleast make oem vent just for bass because there barely any space even if put it behind the the sears smh. Should even have a firewall lol would then probably be the best sound ever for bass. But I was thinking about cutting some metal in between that firewall just to boom boom it too! I can careless about the back window and it's trim and maybe just put fiber glass in.

1: If the threads of the nut or the threads the sway bar link stud are stripped , you can use a nut splitter to cut the nut or use a right angle grinder with a narrow metal cutting wheel to cut only the nut and try to save the sway bar link stud. 2: If it is the hexagonal cavity of the stud that is stripped, you can hold the stud from behind the retaining bracket with locking pliers and undo the nut with a wrench.

I simply ordered it and installed it, but I never measured it.

You typed lactide instead of Loctite. 1: It is not required to apply Loctite on caliper bolts when the proper torque is applied. 2: 57.9 - 72.3 ft.-lbs are the tightening min. and max. torque limits for the FRONT calipers bolts and 47.0 - 54.3 ft.-lbs are the tightening min. and max. torque limits for the REAR calipers, so 50 ft.-lbs is a normal mid-range value. 3: Yes, the guide pins were not greased the standard way but the end result was the same. 4: Yes, he could have used silicone grease to slow down the rust process. 5: Yes, the reservoir was open to check and adjust the fluid, but, with ABS brake systems there no fluid shooting up from the fluid reservoir when the pedal is depressed.

@@mtlcarguy Loctide,lictide.lactide, wherever, blame google, blame me, you understood. For brake caliper holder or braker you better use it. -- the tightening is right for rear, I said the front, so was my mistake.Mine is 2012 and I do all my maintenance. The dealer has never touched my car.

@@HeydaCarreras Good! Doing your own maintenance help you to save a lot of money.

Non, je n'offre aucun service de mecanique ! Je suis retraité et et mes vidéos ne sont que pour donner des informations de base pour aider les gens à en connaître plus sur la mécanique.

Q1: The full capacity of the coolant fluid system is 6.2 L and the extra goes in the coolant reservoir. Q2: The 'water pump' is driven by the serpentine belt on the side of the engine. It has to pump the coolant to fill all the cavities in the cylinder head and in the cooling system in order to get rid of the air pockets and air bubbles.

No, I simply needed the space to gain access to a part. The front and the rear lights are managed with electronic components and fuses that are part of the TIPM. Because many ground connections are used to ground the wires to the chassis, usually the light problems are limited to specific places. First, I would check the fuses and look at the TIPM contact pins & sockets to see if any oxidation could add any electrical resistance. I would also check if the electrical contacts are good with the relays. You can watch these videos to find some clues. Links: ruclips.net/video/OvJU_un4N84/видео.html ruclips.net/video/4IluPPPWE7c/видео.html I cannot tell what is the exact solution, but usually, bad contacts are often the cause of this kind of problem.

@@mtlcarguy thanks so much this is great advice. I’ve checked the fuses themselves for continuity but not the contact pins for oxidation. Having trouble finding the short on the heater wire to my O2 sensor. Maybe this is the secret. I appreciate taking your time!