This is my method for installing paint grade casing. There are plenty of helpful tips in this video that I use all the time. Instagram @vancouver_carpenter
DIY'er here. I've done about 20 door casings and made a hash of nearly all of them. Pros don't often think of the little tips they've acquired over the years that us newbies have never heard. This video is the first I've seen that is genuinely helpful. I'm tempted to go rip off a casing, just to give it a try.
I havent done any of mine in my hime, in fear of them looking bad which in turn stresses me out cause I cant stand them unfinished. Im gonna try now I feel more informed now. I appreciate the tips also.
Thanks for the tips to install casing. I purchased the door yesterday and will be installing today. When finished I will re-do some of my old casing installs that were not as pretty.
About to install my first door casing. Your step by step instruction is VERY helpful. Thanks for not making assumptions about your viewer’s skill levels.
Stumbled across your vids a a few weeks ago. Been really enjoying the professional presentation & recordings! You've got a great pace in explaining things and the topics are very helpful. Subbed & happy to follow along. Keep up the great work!
Yes, you did get lucky. My experience apparently has been as yours, that the miters do not always come out right the first try. That is why I always put the header piece up first and then match the legs. I have seen many people use your way by putting the legs up first. The problem being is that when you don't "get lucky" you wind up cutting the header shorter and then your reveal must be adjusted. If you get really unlucky and both miters of the header have to be adjusted then your reveal will wind up being noticeably off. On the other hand if you make your adjustment to the leg then at worst you will wind up with a small space at the sub floor which, if the finish floor is carpet, tile or wood, it will not matter at all. I liken this to painting yourself into a corner, but then each has their method I suppose. One more thing, when I was a young man such as you I did not bother to wear hearing protection either and now I am paying the price. Do yourself a favor and take care of your health at work. Despite my critiques I think you've made a great video!
You just need to bisect the angle of the door jamb on both ends. Carry a mitre protractor in your belt for this. No getting lucky, no weird reveals, no adjusting and no different length hypotenuse on mitres.
Scrambled O I will add my thanks to scrambled O’s observations. For the home DIYer your instructions are fantastic! Thanks for sharing your expertise and years of experience.
I think that is the most important part of his videos. If he just says he does something "just because" it makes it so we put our own input (ignorantly) and that is why we end up wrong. We don't know what we don't know.
I worked with an old school finish carpenter years ago that was so good you almost could have painted without caulking his trim. His crown molding and cabinet work was the best I’ve ever seen. I wish I had taken the time to learn from him but I was young and stupid so I missed the opportunity.
You said " come right up close " . . . now , this is one of the most helpful tips for the making of this hands-on videos since you truly helped me to see what you did . Thank you so much for your great skills and empathy for the ones like me that need help to do it better.
A helpful video, thanks. One safety tip that I would add is that when somebody is cutting a 45 angle on the mitre saw, to keep the hand that is holding the wood in a position so where it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade. The saw teeth are circling clockwise meaning that it will tend to pull the wood (where one's right hand is holding the wood to the rail) into the saw's blade, and possibly pull one's hand into the blade if it moves along with the wood. So what I do is lock my wood-holding hand into a position so that it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade, in case the wood gets jerked into the blade.
11:57 also wear your safety glasses. Yesterday I was using 1 1/2” nails and they where bending in a u shape. I think it was hitting something hard. Then one if them actually flew out and scratch the side of my face. Almost got my eye. I never thought that would happen.
Gangsta style!!! Lol. Nice point to remember. I wanna a gun but they make life easier but they so pricing and need an air compressor!! Dang. Your work is nice bro!!!
Solid advice. You missed the opportunity to also show the trick of setting the top trim upside down onto the two verticals to mark the length needed for the top piece. .
AN If you take a piece of trim and place it upside down on top of the side casing, you can mark where the outside crown will be and then cut 45’s to make the final piece. Reading it makes it sound confusing, but it is really simple.
Keep up the great work, ur awesome. I'm a 4th Generation carpenter. I was the black sheep of the family and retired as a 25 year police & medic veteran. I never gave up my roots though I still do carpentry -My family mentors have passed. Thank you for this; this is my "whoo-saa" now.
Very nice video with helpful details; 2" nails, brad nailer, 1/4" reveal, hold it like a gangster, jambs first, etc. All of these little things that it's so hard to learn and you had it all, so thank you! And gluing the joints; who does that? Only someone who wants their work to last. Thank you, again.
Added advice for new people that he never mentioned: - No two miters are never the same so be sure when you cut your two side pieces, make sure your top piece is scribed in to make it tight and depending on your blade, cut just top of the line. - Not every 45* is 45* so be sure your miter saw has a correct 45 so check it with your speed square. I have a hitachi miter saw and the 45 is more like 43* and zero is like +/- 1* so double check first. - When cutting, don't just eyeball it and go for it... Cut about an inch above the line to check your miter line to make sure the cut matches the line and THEN you can get closet and close in on that cut. - When you are nailing your pieces together, Throw a couple brads from the side and top corners of the trim as well. - No need to glue, that does no good and just breaks the more you open and close the door and/or settling of the home, simply use some wood putty and/or caulk to seal off the lines. - There's no "chisel point", you can shoot straight or at an angle disregard that. I've shot at hard angles and still had them turn so that he said don't matter. - Don't just "line up and shoot"... Plumb your first piece, shoot ONE BRAD AND STOP! Go to the top and assure your plumb up top, shoot it. Do the bottom. THEN you can start firing away the rest. - Someone said "always nail your header first" .... There's no federal penal code to do it that way "always". I've done it both ways and get the same result. Overall, miters are fun and challenging at the same time, always cut and measure, check and repeat. Don't just jam one at the miter and place it.
Vancouver Carpenter , in the US we call it a combination sq this is a sliding t bevel. www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD29A%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CMajor-Appliances%7CSpecial-Buys%7c71700000032418849%7c58700003842365800%7c92700030987191770&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGkiGfgAtlPInkJmsbKT6wFOy1tLAXGJvB67JTpI8XAQS3hb65wz9TxoClasQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You have such a lovely way presenting tips and tricks, such gentle guidance. Pleasure watching your videos, even though I don't have a door casing in my near future. :-)
@@R1ckyfrankl1n Anyone can paint, but after time of experience. As a beginner I would cut in wavy so bad it forced me to use tape. But after a few years, I could cut straight with my eyes closed while I'm balancing myself on a basketball and drunk as hell. Jk. But you get my point. Lol
Absolutely not, If an inspector or the home owner comes in and sees a carpenter without jean shorts you will be promptly (and rightfully so) removed from the job site.
You can also flat shim behind the corner after you have put the glazer bar behind the door casing. It’s an extra step... no dust protection when using the electric hand planer and trimming drywall??
Put a trash bin under the miter saw, no one does it and I can't understand why? It is so easy and keeps the site clean. Great videos by the way, I really enjoy them
Gareth Kalber, TOTALLY!!! I hate tripping over garbage, plus saws are dangerous and most guys have the biggest messes at their feet while working with their saw.
I’ve learned that it’s better to nail on a 45 degree angle 📐. Then alternate to the opposite 45 every nail. That way the wood can’t possibly pull away from the wall.
7:00 time stamp. I was just pop’N caps with my screw gun at work out into the air at some co-worker walking by last week. I am a 90’s gangster movie/jive talk’N mo-fo! lol
Been doing home projects for about two years now and never knew about holding my nail gun gangster style. Thumbs up for that tip. I've had more than a couple of nails veer out on me. Thanks!
That's a good habit with spreading the glue. It's especially necessary when installing solid wood trim as it seals the wood grain and prevents/minimizes moisture getting into the wood and causing miters to come apart.
Thanks. I've been following your vids and you make everything look so easy. You're also humble and soft talking, not like some other (great) channels that think they are cool if they yell and gesticulate.
Question - my jamb boards are only 11/16" thick so I dont have much to nail to. What would be a good margin (edge of casing & edge of jamb) to use for jambs that thin? Also I have a 18g Brad nailer, 16g Finish Nailer, and a 18g Stapler. Would the stapler be a better option for nailing the casing to the jamb without causing splitting than the Brad nailer? My plan was to use either the stapler or Brad to nail to the jamb and the Finish nailer to nail through the drywall into the stud.
I fo this for a living and your work is fantastic. Extremely text book correct on everything you did. It does take a few minutes longer to do this correctly but it is worth it. I wish I worked with people like you. Today fast is good but it is sloppy work. Fantastic!!
Maybe if you installed the molding on the header first, you would be able to adjust the molding on the jamb to give you a tighter miter. Just leave a slight clearance at the floor to allow for movement.
I find it interesting how meticulous getting a perfect drywall finish can be and yet planing down the door frame to be flat is considered excessive for most doors in the house. Not being negative, I just find that interesting. I've learned so much watching your content and I consider you the best resource on youtube for learning this type of stuff.
I don't think he is trying to say it is excessive, just that most folks opt for speed as they don't get paid by the hour. It is 'good enough' vs 'good'.
great video. the one thing i do not see on your video is links to the tools you used to amazon or the link to your website if I want to hire you. make sure to add these things to your videos so it brings you more exposure.
@luther what did you end up using? I'm looking at buying a nail gun and don't have the budget for two or a combo nailer. I'm leaning towards the 18ga but really not sure. I'm doing all the trim and maybe baseboards in the next few weeks.
I think it's much better to set the head first, then do the stiles. It is much faster and any minor error (if any) is at the floor, which is often covered with carpet etc
I have this speed square from harbour freight. 3 dollars and it has a 1/4” pivot point, works perfectly as well. Forgot to glue for the second time today though. Gotta take it easy on the grass.. Thanks for the great videos. Been a lotta help this last half year.
Love your channel - have learned a lot so far. I see that you should plane the jamb down if it sits too proud from the drywall, but what should you do in the opposite situation where the drywall comes out past the wood?
If it's just 1/8" or so I would just caulk it. If it gets up to a 1/4" or bigger sometimes you need to shave the drywall down. What you do is hold or tack the trim in place and scribe the drywall paper with a knife on the outside of the trim. Once you have that clean line you can then remove the drywall paper and shave down the drywall until it sits flat. It's a big pain but occasionally necessary.
You should do your headers first, try it you can do like 5-10 doors at the same time. You should also cut your casing on the face and on the backside, don't swing the saw so much. Try swinging the saw to the left and leaving it there cut thru the primer for 1 leg and thru the backside for the other. Easy. Also helps you not to have potentially different angles as opposite sides of the miter table *could be* different. Seen it before on that same Milwaukee 12. Maybe also consider glueing your casing too.. at least the first 6-10 inches where the miter is. Movement will break the miter joint regardless of the glue in the joint so gluing the casing to the wall is key. Finisher here in Calgary man, things are very slow. Glad to see someone still uses the old school way. There's actually a guy on RUclips biscuit joining casing together.. also have seen someone pre-assemble the whole header and legs.. insane if that doesn't fit right you're in trouble. Lol. I also PL my window casing now.. no more movement. Have a good one!
I've assembled them on the ground...I've produced corners so perfect, it looks like they were carved from one piece of wood. But it took me two days. Lol. Why headers first?
What if the jam is not fixed and moves around? For example, I removed a bunch of old casings but left the jamb there which now either both or one side isn’t even nailed to the framing itself. Do I have to fix the jambs first to be in place or can I got ahead and install the casings
So glad to see a carpenter spread the glue completely on cut ends of wood trim. It seals the grain and helps preventing joints opening up with humidity fluctuations. I do tons of poplar trim work.. Back-prime (not just the face) and glue your cuts completely. Only way to do it and not have joints galore open up.
Trim carpenters must be the happiest people on earth. You get to see the fruits of your labor every day. Hands on - no technology to mess with your mind and soul.
Really appreciate your channel. I've been renovating my house and I get tremendous help from your videos. I find with your guidance I'm getting fantastic results. Takes more time than slapping it together but the results are far more professional. Thanks for the efforts!
I can teach you how to do this if you want 😉. Cut everything one trip to the saw. Leave everything slightly loose with one nail in the middle. Put glue on the edges and then nail everything at once. You're wasting a lifetime doing it this way. Don't make the marks cause it limits you too much. It's okay to go 3/16-5/16 or even extreme case 3/8. Top cut decides your reveal. Measure top piece first, edge to edge inside jamb and add a 1/2 plus a half blade. Measure floor to jamb and add a 1/4 plus half a blade and you have all your pieces on one trip to the saw. Glue everything before nailing. Only use cyanoacrylate aka super glue. Wood glue is a complete waste of time and then you have do use nails to hold your miters. Put that together on the wall before you restrict yourself with nails. Get miters right first!
dropn loads, I agree, but I also like setting the adjustment to the same as the overhang, like he said in the video. Then I can make all my marks faster without having to constantly turn my square.
Really appreciate the attention to detail here--in both your work itself and your explanations. You have a great blend of expertise and approachability, and I hope your videos help spark a revival of interest in the skilled trades. We are in so much trouble with so many older tradesmen retiring and so few wanting to take their place. The long-term pro-college, anti-trades bias in North America is truly going to back up everyone's toilets and make our buildings fall.
Everyones toilets and buildings are already failing! I know because I am fixing them every day! Also, we are already at the trades shortage people have been warning us about. I feel really bad for the average homeowner trying to get ANY work done. It's a real gamble if you can even find someone these days.
You showed what to do when the door jamb is sticking out beyond the framing. What do you do on the other side, when that part of the jamb is not even with the RO framing?
It’s called a T Square lol going to get me one BEFORE I start installing my door trim. The present baseboards are no longer made so I going to have to install all new baseboards & door trim throughout the house. One room at a time. Appreciate your expertise & detailed instructions. Hope I can do as good a job as you’ve done. Learning as I go. lol
Thanks for the tips. I put all MDF base, shoe and casings in my house 15 years ago now that I have had the kitchen and bath done all modern I decided to change all the moulding to what you just did 1/2 x3 and base will be 1/2 x 5 1/2. The plane moulding is more appropriate for a modern look. Some of your tips with the glazing bar and glue on top are new to me plus the way to hold the nail gun. Thanks. I went out and bought a Milwaukee battery finish nail gun because I have the Milwaukee battery system. So much easier than dealing with a compressor cord and noise. I have a 2000 foot home to install. You have a favorite miter saw stand you like. I want a stand this time. I was cutting on the garage floor before.
Ben, that is called a combination square. It appears to be a very finely and well made handy 6". I have a 12" and it is rather bulky, I shall either find 6" or cut a 12. ;)
Safety glasses are no good on top of your head lol! Good video. I always attach the header first then add the sides so I can adjust the gap on the miter after if needed. Makes for a tight miter every time.
Great tutorial! I love how you add all the tidbits on why you cut of trim ends and how to use the t-bevel. That’s great teaching.
I bought a t-bevel years ago just because it is generally useful, never knew what it was actually for until this video.
DIY'er here. I've done about 20 door casings and made a hash of nearly all of them. Pros don't often think of the little tips they've acquired over the years that us newbies have never heard. This video is the first I've seen that is genuinely helpful. I'm tempted to go rip off a casing, just to give it a try.
I hope you've dont it already bro, if notjust fucking send it, practice makes perfect
I havent done any of mine in my hime, in fear of them looking bad which in turn stresses me out cause I cant stand them unfinished. Im gonna try now I feel more informed now. I appreciate the tips also.
question. is this applicable with concrete walls?
Thanks for the tips to install casing. I purchased the door yesterday and will be installing today. When finished I will re-do some of my old casing installs that were not as pretty.
thanks for the tip about nail gun orientation. I always pre-assemble my casings using clam clamps and CA glue.
About to install my first door casing. Your step by step instruction is VERY helpful. Thanks for not making assumptions about your viewer’s skill levels.
You do beautiful work, it’s nice to know that if I ever have doubts of the work I am doing ? I just you tube the master. Ty for your excellent videos
What gauge nailer did you use? Great stuff btw and thanks!
Did u get an answer?
Would be handy to know what nails were used. He say Brad nails, but no info on size
I feel like such a dork I've seen so many Vancouver drywall videos and have just subscribed... my fault 😂
Stumbled across your vids a a few weeks ago. Been really enjoying the professional presentation & recordings! You've got a great pace in explaining things and the topics are very helpful. Subbed & happy to follow along. Keep up the great work!
Thank you:)
Yes, you did get lucky. My experience apparently has been as yours, that the miters do not always come out right the first try. That is why I always put the header piece up first and then match the legs. I have seen many people use your way by putting the legs up first. The problem being is that when you don't "get lucky" you wind up cutting the header shorter and then your reveal must be adjusted. If you get really unlucky and both miters of the header have to be adjusted then your reveal will wind up being noticeably off. On the other hand if you make your adjustment to the leg then at worst you will wind up with a small space at the sub floor which, if the finish floor is carpet, tile or wood, it will not matter at all. I liken this to painting yourself into a corner, but then each has their method I suppose. One more thing, when I was a young man such as you I did not bother to wear hearing protection either and now I am paying the price. Do yourself a favor and take care of your health at work. Despite my critiques I think you've made a great video!
You just need to bisect the angle of the door jamb on both ends. Carry a mitre protractor in your belt for this. No getting lucky, no weird reveals, no adjusting and no different length hypotenuse on mitres.
Simple, clean, great useful tips, very nicely done!
I have watched tons of RUclips… You my friend make great videos Always explain exactly what you’re doing and why you’re doing it. Thank you
Scrambled O I will add my thanks to scrambled O’s observations. For the home DIYer your instructions are fantastic! Thanks for sharing your expertise and years of experience.
I think that is the most important part of his videos. If he just says he does something "just because" it makes it so we put our own input (ignorantly) and that is why we end up wrong. We don't know what we don't know.
I worked with an old school finish carpenter years ago that was so good you almost could have painted without caulking his trim. His crown molding and cabinet work was the best I’ve ever seen. I wish I had taken the time to learn from him but I was young and stupid so I missed the opportunity.
You said " come right up close " . . . now , this is one of the most helpful tips for the making of this hands-on videos since you truly helped me to see what you did . Thank you so much for your great skills and empathy for the ones like me that need help to do it better.
“Gangster style” that was a great way to remember 😂... great video, you have a new subscriber.
Also the tool for setting the reveal is called a combination square.
Wow! You make excellent videos, and you are an excellent craftsman.
A helpful video, thanks. One safety tip that I would add is that when somebody is cutting a 45 angle on the mitre saw, to keep the hand that is holding the wood in a position so where it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade. The saw teeth are circling clockwise meaning that it will tend to pull the wood (where one's right hand is holding the wood to the rail) into the saw's blade, and possibly pull one's hand into the blade if it moves along with the wood. So what I do is lock my wood-holding hand into a position so that it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade, in case the wood gets jerked into the blade.
11:57 also wear your safety glasses. Yesterday I was using 1 1/2” nails and they where bending in a u shape. I think it was hitting something hard. Then one if them actually flew out and scratch the side of my face. Almost got my eye. I never thought that would happen.
I live in Kansas City and I've been a painting contractor for 25 years. Would you please move here and start building stuff that I can paint?
Very clever trick with the pry blade. Nice
Gangsta style!!! Lol. Nice point to remember. I wanna a gun but they make life easier but they so pricing and need an air compressor!! Dang. Your work is nice bro!!!
Solid advice. You missed the opportunity to also show the trick of setting the top trim upside down onto the two verticals to mark the length needed for the top piece. .
True. I often do that too.
@@vancouvercarpenter Can you explain that briefly? Flip top and points should align?
@@vancouvercarpenter Woot, new video idea!
I always hang the top piece first them pull my lengths from the long point of the miter
AN If you take a piece of trim and place it upside down on top of the side casing, you can mark where the outside crown will be and then cut 45’s to make the final piece. Reading it makes it sound confusing, but it is really simple.
Combination square
It's called an engineer's square. A t-bevel rotates on a hinge for transferring angles.
Keep up the great work, ur awesome. I'm a 4th Generation carpenter. I was the black sheep of the family and retired as a 25 year police & medic veteran. I never gave up my roots though I still do carpentry -My family mentors have passed. Thank you for this; this is my "whoo-saa" now.
Very nice video with helpful details; 2" nails, brad nailer, 1/4" reveal, hold it like a gangster, jambs first, etc. All of these little things that it's so hard to learn and you had it all, so thank you! And gluing the joints; who does that? Only someone who wants their work to last. Thank you, again.
That "tool" is called a "combination square". Good video, I enjoyed watching it.
Added advice for new people that he never mentioned:
- No two miters are never the same so be sure when you cut your two side pieces, make sure your top piece is scribed in to make it tight and depending on your blade, cut just top of the line.
- Not every 45* is 45* so be sure your miter saw has a correct 45 so check it with your speed square. I have a hitachi miter saw and the 45 is more like 43* and zero is like +/- 1* so double check first.
- When cutting, don't just eyeball it and go for it... Cut about an inch above the line to check your miter line to make sure the cut matches the line and THEN you can get closet and close in on that cut.
- When you are nailing your pieces together, Throw a couple brads from the side and top corners of the trim as well.
- No need to glue, that does no good and just breaks the more you open and close the door and/or settling of the home, simply use some wood putty and/or caulk to seal off the lines.
- There's no "chisel point", you can shoot straight or at an angle disregard that. I've shot at hard angles and still had them turn so that he said don't matter.
- Don't just "line up and shoot"... Plumb your first piece, shoot ONE BRAD AND STOP! Go to the top and assure your plumb up top, shoot it. Do the bottom. THEN you can start firing away the rest.
- Someone said "always nail your header first" .... There's no federal penal code to do it that way "always". I've done it both ways and get the same result.
Overall, miters are fun and challenging at the same time, always cut and measure, check and repeat. Don't just jam one at the miter and place it.
Thank you! I just remembered the sliding T bevel is the one for finding angles.
Vancouver Carpenter , in the US we call it a combination sq
this is a sliding t bevel.
www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD29A%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CMajor-Appliances%7CSpecial-Buys%7c71700000032418849%7c58700003842365800%7c92700030987191770&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGkiGfgAtlPInkJmsbKT6wFOy1tLAXGJvB67JTpI8XAQS3hb65wz9TxoClasQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@markschiavone8003 I use that as a angle finder
Benji Mcdowell , I actually just got a digital T - bevel for trim and its awesome.
Whats kind of wood did you use here?
@@antoinegoins it’s just pre primed MDF (medium density fibreboard). Cheap and easy to use
You have such a lovely way presenting tips and tricks, such gentle guidance. Pleasure watching your videos, even though I don't have a door casing in my near future. :-)
"cause that's no fun for the painters" thank you! finally another trade thought of us!
That’s because anyone can paint. How you do it all day I will never know. Simpletons
@@R1ckyfrankl1n Anyone can paint, but after time of experience. As a beginner I would cut in wavy so bad it forced me to use tape. But after a few years, I could cut straight with my eyes closed while I'm balancing myself on a basketball and drunk as hell. Jk. But you get my point. Lol
@@obeycastle2547 nobody gives a crap how you make your 10$/hr loser
Read more
Scumbag
@@justindecker9557 Damn guy, you need a hug.
@@R1ckyfrankl1n anyone can cut wood boards and hammer them in too... it's just that most people are lazy... try being an engineer for a day. A-hole.
this helped me alot , and you get extra points for making me laugh with your cheesy gangsta style method . Thanks for your help
I laughed so hard... if you’re a child of the 90’s... hold your gun like this! #winner!
Loser.
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Scumbag
Thank you! I'd never done this, and now Ive done 12 in my house. Got it down to 25 min each. ☺️
I trim for a living. This is a very slow way of casing a door. Theres a much faster and more accurate way.
@@johnnyguttilla3009 can't wait for your video
@@johnnyguttilla3009 yes would love to see it.
@@johnnyguttilla3009 ya lets see it......dickwad
This video was incredibly helpful. I used every tip, technique he used and I ended up with pro results.
Can I do even if I don't have jean shorts?
nope
In a pinch, an elephant G-string will be close enough.
Those are called jorts.
Absolutely not, If an inspector or the home owner comes in and sees a carpenter without jean shorts you will be promptly (and rightfully so) removed from the job site.
What about dolphin shorts?
The tool he's talking about at the beginning of the video is called a COMBINATION SQUARE
You can also flat shim behind the corner after you have put the glazer bar behind the door casing. It’s an extra step... no dust protection when using the electric hand planer and trimming drywall??
Put a trash bin under the miter saw, no one does it and I can't understand why? It is so easy and keeps the site clean. Great videos by the way, I really enjoy them
Gareth Kalber, TOTALLY!!! I hate tripping over garbage, plus saws are dangerous and most guys have the biggest messes at their feet while working with their saw.
Also, what size Brad nailer you using? 15,16, or 18?
I’ve learned that it’s better to nail on a 45 degree angle 📐. Then alternate to the opposite 45 every nail. That way the wood can’t possibly pull away from the wall.
Thank you for the video. It helped a lot, God bless
If Chris Martin and Guy Berryman had a baby, it would be this guy.
GadKrz LOL I see it
Thank you, It’s really useful 👍🙏
Another great and informative video, Ben! You are very good at what you do and I will be installing door stop molding for a customer later today :)
You used a door plane on the frame as first operation..(edit) wow great idea. I will use my plane more often. Great work btw
7:00 time stamp. I was just pop’N caps with my screw gun at work out into the air at some co-worker walking by last week. I am a 90’s gangster movie/jive talk’N mo-fo! lol
Been doing home projects for about two years now and never knew about holding my nail gun gangster style. Thumbs up for that tip. I've had more than a couple of nails veer out on me. Thanks!
That's a good habit with spreading the glue. It's especially necessary when installing solid wood trim as it seals the wood grain and prevents/minimizes moisture getting into the wood and causing miters to come apart.
Those glasses are protecting the top of your head very well. 🤪
I got like 3 inches per side of the door!!! Alot of shims!!ships!!! Lol
Thanks. I've been following your vids and you make everything look so easy. You're also humble and soft talking, not like some other (great) channels that think they are cool if they yell and gesticulate.
I learned something. Thank you
The only thing better than these tutorials is actually being in a classroom. Thanks so much for making them, VC!
Hey chief, can I hold my gun like this?
Whatever you want, birthday boy.
Thanks for showing us. Do we need to trim inside and outside of a door?
Question - my jamb boards are only 11/16" thick so I dont have much to nail to. What would be a good margin (edge of casing & edge of jamb) to use for jambs that thin? Also I have a 18g Brad nailer, 16g Finish Nailer, and a 18g Stapler. Would the stapler be a better option for nailing the casing to the jamb without causing splitting than the Brad nailer? My plan was to use either the stapler or Brad to nail to the jamb and the Finish nailer to nail through the drywall into the stud.
This guy is pretty good with tips and tricks
I fo this for a living and your work is fantastic. Extremely text book correct on everything you did. It does take a few minutes longer to do this correctly but it is worth it. I wish I worked with people like you. Today fast is good but it is sloppy work. Fantastic!!
Maybe if you installed the molding on the header first, you would be able to adjust the molding on the jamb to give you a tighter miter. Just leave a slight clearance at the floor to allow for movement.
No this guy did everything right and had o beautiful joint it didn't even take all that long. Fantastic job all the way around
Thanks for gun angle tip.
Never thought of that
Ya never knew you'd not want your enemy to split when shot
I find it interesting how meticulous getting a perfect drywall finish can be and yet planing down the door frame to be flat is considered excessive for most doors in the house. Not being negative, I just find that interesting. I've learned so much watching your content and I consider you the best resource on youtube for learning this type of stuff.
I don't think he is trying to say it is excessive, just that most folks opt for speed as they don't get paid by the hour. It is 'good enough' vs 'good'.
great video. the one thing i do not see on your video is links to the tools you used to amazon or the link to your website if I want to hire you. make sure to add these things to your videos so it brings you more exposure.
Great tutorial! Are these 18 ga or 16 ga brads? I’m getting ready to do trim and molding in my house.
@luther what did you end up using? I'm looking at buying a nail gun and don't have the budget for two or a combo nailer. I'm leaning towards the 18ga but really not sure. I'm doing all the trim and maybe baseboards in the next few weeks.
He did leave enough for the reveal.... I humbly recant my last post... incorrect spelling and all
Beautiful! I knew this guy was legit when he held the gun gangster style for the nailing!
I think it's much better to set the head first, then do the stiles. It is much faster and any minor error (if any) is at the floor, which is often covered with carpet etc
I always eye ball the reveal without marks.lol. nice job
I have this speed square from harbour freight. 3 dollars and it has a 1/4” pivot point, works perfectly as well.
Forgot to glue for the second time today though. Gotta take it easy on the grass..
Thanks for the great videos. Been a lotta help this last half year.
Does the planer not hit the drywall screws? I'm confused!
I think the jam was proud, so he took the jam down to the drywall level.
Love your channel - have learned a lot so far. I see that you should plane the jamb down if it sits too proud from the drywall, but what should you do in the opposite situation where the drywall comes out past the wood?
If it's just 1/8" or so I would just caulk it. If it gets up to a 1/4" or bigger sometimes you need to shave the drywall down. What you do is hold or tack the trim in place and scribe the drywall paper with a knife on the outside of the trim. Once you have that clean line you can then remove the drywall paper and shave down the drywall until it sits flat. It's a big pain but occasionally necessary.
@@vancouvercarpenter Awesome, thanks!
GREAT VIDEO THANKS!!!
You should do your headers first, try it you can do like 5-10 doors at the same time. You should also cut your casing on the face and on the backside, don't swing the saw so much. Try swinging the saw to the left and leaving it there cut thru the primer for 1 leg and thru the backside for the other. Easy. Also helps you not to have potentially different angles as opposite sides of the miter table *could be* different. Seen it before on that same Milwaukee 12. Maybe also consider glueing your casing too.. at least the first 6-10 inches where the miter is. Movement will break the miter joint regardless of the glue in the joint so gluing the casing to the wall is key.
Finisher here in Calgary man, things are very slow. Glad to see someone still uses the old school way. There's actually a guy on RUclips biscuit joining casing together.. also have seen someone pre-assemble the whole header and legs.. insane if that doesn't fit right you're in trouble. Lol. I also PL my window casing now.. no more movement. Have a good one!
I've assembled them on the ground...I've produced corners so perfect, it looks like they were carved from one piece of wood. But it took me two days. Lol.
Why headers first?
Great video! Miters are definitely an experienced art to get a clean finish with no gap!
Love how you remember what a glaizers bar is but not a standard combo square 🤣 great video, just about to start my casing
What if the jam is not fixed and moves around? For example, I removed a bunch of old casings but left the jamb there which now either both or one side isn’t even nailed to the framing itself. Do I have to fix the jambs first to be in place or can I got ahead and install the casings
So glad to see a carpenter spread the glue completely on cut ends of wood trim. It seals the grain and helps preventing joints opening up with humidity fluctuations. I do tons of poplar trim work.. Back-prime (not just the face) and glue your cuts completely. Only way to do it and not have joints galore open up.
Trim carpenters must be the happiest people on earth.
You get to see the fruits of your labor every day.
Hands on - no technology to mess with your mind and soul.
Can you make a video on how to hang door frames and doors. I tried and had a b*** of a time and now when its summer it swells and doesnt shut well.
Two year old video yet still the first one I've seen that wasn't dry wall. Lol but love seeing this done well.
Really appreciate your channel. I've been renovating my house and I get tremendous help from your videos. I find with your guidance I'm getting fantastic results. Takes more time than slapping it together but the results are far more professional. Thanks for the efforts!
Great video.
This was my go-to video for doing this type of installation for the first time ever. Thank you!
Gangster. Nice tips. Thank you!
What gauge nail do you use?
What gauge nailer? 16 or 18?
I can teach you how to do this if you want 😉. Cut everything one trip to the saw. Leave everything slightly loose with one nail in the middle. Put glue on the edges and then nail everything at once. You're wasting a lifetime doing it this way. Don't make the marks cause it limits you too much. It's okay to go 3/16-5/16 or even extreme case 3/8. Top cut decides your reveal. Measure top piece first, edge to edge inside jamb and add a 1/2 plus a half blade. Measure floor to jamb and add a 1/4 plus half a blade and you have all your pieces on one trip to the saw. Glue everything before nailing. Only use cyanoacrylate aka super glue. Wood glue is a complete waste of time and then you have do use nails to hold your miters. Put that together on the wall before you restrict yourself with nails. Get miters right first!
Nice! I hope you do more carpentry videos soon!
What Gage nail gun are you using?
Thanks
With the combination square, the overhang of the straight blade into the holder, is a constant measurement i use that to mark the reveal
dropn loads, I agree, but I also like setting the adjustment to the same as the overhang, like he said in the video. Then I can make all my marks faster without having to constantly turn my square.
Really appreciate the attention to detail here--in both your work itself and your explanations. You have a great blend of expertise and approachability, and I hope your videos help spark a revival of interest in the skilled trades. We are in so much trouble with so many older tradesmen retiring and so few wanting to take their place. The long-term pro-college, anti-trades bias in North America is truly going to back up everyone's toilets and make our buildings fall.
Everyones toilets and buildings are already failing! I know because I am fixing them every day! Also, we are already at the trades shortage people have been warning us about. I feel really bad for the average homeowner trying to get ANY work done. It's a real gamble if you can even find someone these days.
I guess technically, you are wearing your safety glasses. Good video just the same.
You showed what to do when the door jamb is sticking out beyond the framing. What do you do on the other side, when that part of the jamb is not even with the RO framing?
He smashes it with a hammer.
It’s called a T Square lol going to get me one BEFORE I start installing my door trim. The present baseboards are no longer made so I going to have to install all new baseboards & door trim throughout the house. One room at a time. Appreciate your expertise & detailed instructions. Hope I can do as good a job as you’ve done. Learning as I go. lol
Thanks for the tips. I put all MDF base, shoe and casings in my house 15 years ago now that I have had the kitchen and bath done all modern I decided to change all the moulding to what you just did 1/2 x3 and base will be 1/2 x 5 1/2. The plane moulding is more appropriate for a modern look. Some of your tips with the glazing bar and glue on top are new to me plus the way to hold the nail gun. Thanks. I went out and bought a Milwaukee battery finish nail gun because I have the Milwaukee battery system. So much easier than dealing with a compressor cord and noise. I have a 2000 foot home to install. You have a favorite miter saw stand you like. I want a stand this time. I was cutting on the garage floor before.
Ben, that is called a combination square. It appears to be a very finely and well made handy 6". I have a 12" and it is rather bulky, I shall either find 6" or cut a 12. ;)
Always pin the header first
Safety glasses are no good on top of your head lol! Good video. I always attach the header first then add the sides so I can adjust the gap on the miter after if needed. Makes for a tight miter every time.
What is the purpose of marki g the 1/4" with the.sliding t-square?? Thx
Love ur vids Ben but I wouldn't want to be the painter filling all those nail holes behind you
Man! I’m learning so much! Thanks for doing these videos!
its 45 degrees so why would you not cut BOTH pieces at the same time and why turn the saw blade?