Finish Carpentry TV couldn't you stand up the crown against the back rail, and 45 the seam? Or even the 22.5? (Corner mitres maybe flip.) That is.......if you don't have the little kicker\ adjusters that you use? Just curious. Definitely like you're work and yes.....keeping the eye away from seams is a pro thing. Hide the seams. You're in a nice neighborhood for a reason. Did you make you're overall length a little bit long for the snap in technique you referenced? ( On purpose I mean, like a strong "16th") Well that and your spackle and glue makes for a snug, nice installation. Good job man! Really good tutorial.
Dude ... SERIOUSLY?? To be a MASTER Craftsman at such a young age is a special kind of incredible. Love watching you work and talk ... you are soooo laid back and calm, showing confidence like knowing the back of your hand. That's a far cry from the weekend DIY warriors like myself who spend more time cursing during projects from frustration, than actually working. LOL! WELL DONE, SIR!
Thank you so much for this video- My husband passed away recently and I am faced with doing lots of little things. I fixed 2 pieces of baseboard molding using your instructions. At least I don't see the seam anymore! You are a great teacher.
I watch these videos several times, over the course of weeks, along with some of his similar videos. After a while, it all begins to come together as he uses the same techniques in different ways on different projects. It really is a craft that takes time and effort to learn. He's very thorough.
My friend, I hope you get top dollar for your work. I'm a Trim Carpenter myself and Most builders don't want to pay for the quality of work you are doing. I've watched some of your other videos for vaults and funky cuts, absolutely stunning work. I had to sub your channel and hope I can learn some different techniques for more custom work other than your standard basic trim. Thanks for making these types of videos for other carpenters such as myself and also beginners.
It is very hard to find builders that would pay for that quality, but I'm pretty sure he's on the remodeling end. I've been in both worlds and I've never found appreciation from builders for quality craftsmanship if it means they pay what's fair for it.
+T L S This is the thing that most people seem to overlook. Quality craftsmanship is what most workers want to be doing but you're limited by the client's budget, and most of the time there just isn't the budget there to allocate this amount of time.
But does it really take all day just to do good work? I bet if the the camera was turn off, as well as his teaching mode, he could whip that together in a few minutes.
Of course not, but when you're doing every aspect of a job to a high degree extra time costs money. This isn't to say that craftsmen are unable to do good work fast, but to do every aspect of a job to the highest degree of skill with the available amount of time is rarely feasible - I don't think any homeowner of craftsman would disagree with that.
That's the type of shit that separates the pros from ametuers!!! Then, he freely shares his knowledge in hopes of others benefiting from quality work as well. It takes a person who is confident in their work to do that!! I'm subscribing to this channel based on this video alone!!
I always tell people to wait 4 years to put crown on new home. Luckily our builders charge an arm and a leg to do it, so we get a LOT of crown molding jobs. Easy money
All that work on the sanding should be spent on markin studs and shooting into wood. Oh ya and cope your corners! This guy has attention to detail, but the wrong game plan. Come back in 5 years and you'll see why
@@andrewelmer9266 he does not need to cope the corners, the moulding is getting painted, easy to fill any gaps and paint, however he may even of measured the corner he's confident enough that the 45 degree will work. Cope the corners of it's staying natural or getting stained etc, totally agree there.
I am a old retired craftsman that does appreciates a person that cares enough about their work to get it right and better and better.. I would like to suggest after applying the compound use a damp sponge for removing abundance of material, then letting dry for a few minutes wipe again and after almost dry wet sponge and wipe even more... Sanding is not needed most of the time... Just a food for thought... Roger Fossette
Been watching you for a long time just for the joy of learning more woodworking skills. I have learned a lot from your videos. Recently one of my children purchased their first home. Wanted to replace the baseboard as it was dated and worn. This video was a huge help in getting a clean joint on a long wall. Just what I needed. Thanks and keep sharing. We need it
I’ve been watching some of your videos for the last few months. Rarely am I impressed by guys on RUclips. Most of them watch a video and by the next week are posting an almost copy video showing others how to do what they are doing. They are suddenly an expert in that field because they’ve watched a few videos on the subject. You sir know what you are doing. You are dedicated to your craft and do it very well. I rarely hire someone to do work around the house because I am rarely impressed by their work...so I just do it myself. I’d hire you in a second to do trim work around here. You are very well spoken and a hard worker. Most young guys could learn a lot by watching you. Keep up the good work. If you ever come down to H-town, I’ll take you out for a beer
I LOVE this channel. I wanted to become a finish carpenter back in my 20’s but I was a working musician and didn’t want to risk my hands around power tools every day. I’m now a technician and make a good living, I’m 51 but always watch this kind of stuff because I miss not having pursued this as a career. Keep up the awesome work. Maybe one day I can rent a workshop and build furniture for a hobby 😄
I'm a DIY homeowner that is adding crown moulding to a master bedroom. The videos you have shared here have helped quite a bit in figuring out joints on the longer runs... and doing inside/outside corners. Thanks for doing these videos.
This video changed the way I've done molding for the past two years, Now I make whole super glued sub-assemblies to go around end walls. Best fitting corners ever, even on less than straight walls. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Over all - Excellent video. Please let me make a few suggestions. 1) I've been using CA glue since 1979. Looks like you're using Bob Smith brand which is a good, general purpose CA glue. CA glue's come in Thin, Medium and Thick. In this video you used thin. No problem but please know you used way too much. CA glue's will hold just fine WITHOUT the use of an Activator or "Kicker" as we call it. Simply place it on ONE side and then put the two sides together and hold for a minute or two. The use of Activator (i.e. Kicker) is just to make the glue set up faster. However the problem is if you kick off the glue as you did.. it immediately wants to set... thus you had to shove your 2 pieces together quickly. And, sometimes you can't get your joints lined up straight before the glue kicks off. The correct way is to place Thin or Medium CA glue on one side. Position your parts together then KICK off the seam with the activator. The Activator will get into the seam and kick the glue via capillary action. 2) Another problem with kicking off the glue they way you did is that you had to use way too much to give you time to position your parts. CA glue is kind of expensive so that was a waste. Next, looking at the bottom you had chunks of HARD glue and dirt / concrete. Sanding off hardened CA glue is... well it's HARD. The kicker makes it foam up and it makes little hard glue spots which are hard to sand. 3) Last, you should consider sweeping the area you are going to work on of all debris before your work on it. Dirt, grit, sawdust... whatever. I like to buy wax paper from a Dollar Store and put down a 12" piece. CA won't stick to waxed paper or if it does... it will peel off easily. Keep up the good work and thanks for all of your video's.
Correcting some of Kolin's correction, with more fine points: Kolin is correct in that you don't need the activator for CA gluing of a wood joint, and that the purpose of it is only to accelerate the curing to save you some time. Also very true that in the video above, Richard is using far too much glue. The stuff is truly powerful, to the point where less is far better. Also far less expensive that way! I personally use small dots of it along one side of a joint when working on baseboards or casing, or short dashed lines of it when the joint is larger. This has the extra benefit of allowing the glue a place to expand to when pushing the joint together, which also allows the joint itself to be more tightly pushed together for a superior fit/result. Otherwise, you're trying to smash a giant smear of that glue into a paper-thin plane. It'll actually hold the joint farther apart with that much applied. Secondly, spraying activator directly on the glue like Richard is doing immediately starts the curing, which hinders the glue from spreading out properly when pushing it together. It also drastically shortens the time you have to orient the two pieces accurately. Pretty much why he suddenly had to shove them together. What happens if you miss on that first try is that you have to cut the piece off and do it over with another section of crown, saving the cutoff for use in another location. On that note, having to actually sand the crown down to get it to fit means you did miss, and it'll 100% show once finish paint is applied. The proper use of CA and activator is that the glue is applied to one side of the joint, and activator *to the other*. This gives you more time to correctly orient the details of the pieces and push them together carefully, instead of a panicked shove. Two helpful tips are: 1) However you choose, be sure to push that CA glue a bit into the fibers of the one piece for a better connection, like maybe with the tip of the applicator bottle. And 2): Allow the spray activator to evaporate for a few seconds before joining the pieces. The wetness is only the acetone carrier of the actual chemical that 'kicks' the glue. Once the acetone evaporates, it'll leave behind that chemical to do its job and bond with the glue when the pieces are joined. If you've done all the above and slowly/carefully pushed the pieces together (yes, you'll have time), you should have a joint that needs no filling or sanding whatsoever, paints up beautifully, and is super strong. Last point: *always* respect a client's property. Yes, that even means the sidewalk. I'd be pissed if I hired a finish guy to do some trim on my house and he didn't put something beneath his glue work and left blobs of it all over my sidewalk. Just saying, as this is super common mistake that tradespeople make, and an easy adjustment to make in your routine. I guarantee it'll make you a star when that certain homeowner takes notice of how much you cared about all areas of their property.
I've watched a number of your videos. You clearly had a great ability to TEACH others how to do trim techniques. Professionals...as well as HOMEOWNERS...would do well to watch your entire series.
I'm a builder and i've never seen any of my guys take the time to properly make a seam disappear. They all make excuses about their seams coming apart later, now I know how it should be properly done. Great job!!!
We are in the midst of doing our place so I've been watching all of your videos and have learned a lot of tips and tricks... the main reason why I chose to do this myself is because it's hard to find someone that takes pride in their work so I figured I would give it a go, but it sure is nice to see the pride you put into your work, it gives hope people may start to bring back that trait... thanks for the video help...
You have a great manner in which you pass on your knowledge , I hope you take great comfort in knowing you are both educating and entertaining your audience.
Just wanted to add a comment here. I tried the method shown here with great results. Your videos have provided the direction I needed to install crown at my daughter house. It was a comedy of errors at the beginning but I just kept on working at it and everything got better as I gained some confidence. And while the results have been terrific, building the skills has been the real reward. I would have never tried this without your channel. So, a big thanks to you. Very cool stuff.
Richard, your videos and instructions have given me the confidence to start crown molding installation, as well as board/batten, shiplap, nickel gap, and some wainscoting. Thanks to you, I've had great success and now every family member and neighbor wants to "hire" me. Thank you for inspiring me. As for building your own doors from scratch, you're doing an awesome job, and it's enlightening to see that just like me, you continue to learn, and improve every day. Well done!
Hi watched your video and its a great instruction. Im a carpenter, interior system and finish carpenter. Not easy to work with crown molding. The splice you used 22 degree is the method i use. Conspicous placement over the cabinets great choice.
I am 100% NOT a carpenter or finish carpenter, rather an electrician redoing my basement. Your videos are wonderful for a guy like me that has no clue what he is doing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I am very impressed with your work and work ethic.
Love your excellent videos. One helpful hint for you. Put your CA glue on one side and spray your accelerator on the other side. As you bring the two pieces together, your glue kicks off. You have more time to bring the pieces into proper alignment before the CA glue is permanently hardened.
Richard is a finishing baller and what makes him the pro that he is, is his willingness to share with those like me, without the selfishness or concern of someone stealing ideas. Thank you Richard. Phil
@@XBKLYN you’re kidding right? I’m sure the neighbors aren’t very thrilled with all the saw dust going everywhere. No blankets, no nothing. Then the dumbass admits to pulling up the concrete? I’m sure the homeowners are thrilled.
As a business owner, with years of experience in both commercial and residential project management, I can tell you that your skill, attitude, and attention to detail is way above what we typically see. I believe in treating any of the skilled tradesman that work for me well when it comes to compensation. Base workers make $12-15 hr, knowledgeable renovations workers make $15-18hr, skilled trade workers $20-24, and any sub-contract type individual workers with skill and ability anywhere from $25-35hr. There have been times that I have even paid $40-45hr. All of this is in Oklahoma where cost of living is crazy low. I would absolutely love to have a tradesman like you on my team, but it is nearly impossible to find. There are guys who have promised the moon, but simply cant deliver when it comes time. You will always have work available as long as you dont become complacent. Keep up the good work
These lessons have taught me so much. You’re videos are so incredibly valuable in my DIY work at home. I’m doing work that looks professional and I’ve never done crown. Thank you!!
I have been a painting contractor for 19 years and wish that all finish carpenters did it this way, not only would it make my job easier it is a much better looking product in the end for the customer, and isn't that what they deserve. Thanks for sharing I am going to forward this to my all my GC that I sub for. Thanks again.
It's always very comforting to see that not all contractors are created equal, and even more satisfying to see that the Younger Generations are not only about Quantity but Quality. Great job Young Man!! Keep up the great technics, and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I can tell you're a perfectionist, and I like it! Great job, very thorough in your explanation and your work. No one will notice that there's no seam - but people notice when there is!!! That's the point, don't give em something to complain about! Nice work guys. I'm not even doing crown molding but I watched this whole video in suspense lol.
Great tips, particularly on the choice of the scarf joint, the uses of the Bosch laser measuring tool, the practical uses of CA glue and the spray accelerator in finish work, the use of light weight spackle, the quick cuts with the chop saw, etc. A little something for every DIYer.
OMG! I feel the love in your workmanship. I watched this whole video and I am not even interested in doing this, but if I consider it I would want to hire you.
Wow, love your channel. I’ve been doing trim for a lot of years and just never really knew the whole backer board trick. Now I can apply this to 16+ ft headers and such and spackle the seam instead of caulk! I will have to try the CA glue, been using hot glue gun with Gorilla glue sticks with pretty good results but CA looks less messy:)
Thank you so much for sharing. I’m just a guy trying to make my little house look nice for my wife and kids. Your advice and the time you take to explain the reasons behind what you are doing are much appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Richard, I probably have already commented on this video - so appreciate your generosity with your knowledge - your kindness is awesome. I hope you continue to have great success!
After watching a lot of finish carpentry videos from all over the world, I have noticed something. All of them (the carpenters) are very calm in their demeanor. Very methodical in their approach, not rushing and overall, rather 'quiet' people in general.
Michael Osmon you have no idea what the moulding industry is like. very expensive mouldings are made of polyurethane. not poplar. MDF is the heartbeat of the game at this point. check my stuff. I'm not a maintenance guy bro.
dfw crown Yeah and all your nailguns are made of plastic these days, doesn't make it the best option, just cheapest for production and profits. I install trim everyday man you don't know me.
I'm going to put more thought and precision into my future projects after seeing how much you care about your work. Thank you for sharing this with us.
I used this on a house full of crown, including the 22.5 miter, and I'm here to tell ya it makes the best joints. Many thanks brother for all the tips, you've definitely made me a better trim carpenter.
Excellence at its Finest! I’m so glad I found your channel. I’m feeling a lot more confident on installing this in my living room now. Thanks for sharing 😊⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
absolute passion and perfection!! No matter what or how you do anything, there will always be someone hating. I know you sleep well at night. Thanks for the video
I have three questions. 1) Why not a coped joint on the inside corner? 2) Did you guys even try to nail into a stud or ceiling joist, or is all that molding nailed into sheetrock only? 3) Is their a reason for not letting your miter saw achieve its maximum rpm before you pull it through the cut? Just curious.
Its a very valid question about where they are nailing. Relying on sheetrock to hold the nails seems to make all the work done to hide a scarf joint irrelevant.
My brother and I have been trimming our parent's house out after Irma ruined it and we've had to hire labor and it's been spotty. Guys oversell their ability like crazy in the Keys. We got a stucco guy who did amazing work and he said he also did finish carpentry. He showed up in a box truck full of tools and like I said did great stucco work and even repaired the wood under the stucco. So, we hired him to help finish trimming the interior and holy crap was that a mistake. We have one of those new dual Battery Makita slide dual bevel miter saws and it perplexed him to no end, then he crushed the lock mechanism on the plate somehow. I watch him cutting crown and does he flat cut it? NO. You have a top line sliding miter saw and he owns a sliding dual saw as well, so I cannot figure out whey he's cutting the crown backwards using a block of 2x12 cut into a 45 degree jig, instead of flat cutting it or using the damn fence extensions. Then there are gaps in the miters in the 32 and 45 degree cuts you could put a silver dollar in. Then he comes to me and asks what's this shit job on my base board and shoe. He'd never seen straight run trim before and coped a corner in his life. I know a lot of guys haven't, but he'd never seen it before. Our main carpenter hates coping. He's good at it, but it frustrates him but he's at least seen the stuff. Both these guys are 50, like my, so it's not for lack of experience. But anyway, back to the crown molding. So Rey is hanging this crown in the bedroom and i notice the next day that it's sagging all over the place. Not only did he just shoot it into drywall, but he used freakin 18 gauge brads. I had to renail most of it. Same with the 8 ince base we're using. Just shot the damn brads right into the drywall. I had to use 2.5 inch nails shot in at angles to get the base to suck against the wall a lot because the drywallers just sucked moose balls. I mean damn, you can't hang trim by not shooting nails into wood.
i was really curious why they don't cope. what do you do if the corner isn't true? mitering inside corners seems to be a waste of time to me, but either way, I think he did a great job gluing up that scarf joint
Thank you for the quality of video as well as the level of detail and knowledge you share. I recently acquired approximately 200 Pieces of 5-8 ft crown molding for free. Your videos will help our house look amazing!!! Thank you!
-So luxurious to have a second carpenter and, really the quality but more expensive approach. Years ago i used to have to tack 4 or 6d finish nails just below the crown, hook one end up close to the joint and walk the other end up from about the 2/3rds point. I'd have the piece cut strong and the coped ends would very slightly crush against the mating piece(s). I too would have loved that glue you use. Back then I'd tack the joint to the sub-floor with some wax paper below and wait a day. -Did he same for round or arched window trim by scribing the arcs and pinning (with a nail spinner) till the glue dried a day, chiseling and sanding the glue squeeze out on the faces and holding my breath as I released the trim and carefully walked it over to the casing. -So wonderful to see you carrying the torch. When in Houston briefly twenty years ago it was heartbreaking to peek in on off hours and see the construction being done in some McMansions in residential areas. Before the Internet, especially before recent streaming ,I leaned on my father's work as my example as I silently labored for him, 'Then, to my delight there was Fine Homebuilding magazine which I discovered in it's second year and shared a subscription with my dad.
@@adrianitis3750 the concern is more toward damaging utilities in the wall spaces. It happens quite often. Sometimes a nail will puncture, but seal a plumbing pipe only to start leaking months or years later causing significant water damage inside the walls.
@@premierreefsmn they are most likely using inch or inch and a quarter Brad's which with this thickness of crown molding, it will barely go through the back of the drywall. They're relying on crossaction anchoring to hold the crown in place pushing against drywall down and towards the wall on each side of the crown.
Beautiful work. Attention to detail is what it takes and that is the best I’ve ever seen. I don’t do this for a living I just do DIY stuff and I’ve never done crown molding because it’s just bugs me don’t know what I’m doing. Those people are lucky to have someone like you working for them
Kudos to you for the talent and quality of work you do. Finally building a house for myself. Can’t wait to use some of your techniques when installing the trim. I enjoy watching all your videos.
I really admire a workman that does their absolute best with no shortcuts. Great job! If I ever need trim work done, I hope I find someone just like you,
As a simple DIYer trying to fix flood damage in my own home, THANK YOU for taking the time to post these videos. I had so many "handy men" come out to fix our crown and all they did was F*ck it up! Taking the info from this video and implementing it to our long piece of crown as well. I REALLY wish you would have put a finished pic of the crown after paint, I would've LOVED to see it!
This is by far the best video on RUclips. You really understand the art and technical aspects of your craft! Excellent job explaining and showing each process. Amazing!😊
Just started watching your videos. Kudos for an impeccable work ethic. I have been building and remodeling houses for over 30 years and love that no matter how old you are or how long you have been at your craft there is still more to learn. Also love seeing the young people involved in the trades!! What is the glue and activator and where do you get it? Awesome job and thanks for the knowledge!!
I just want to give you a shout out about how much I appreciate your videos and have used your tips and know how in my own DIY home projects. Keep up the great work.
Sir, you make me want to get into the profession and I don't even know how to begin to start. It's obvious that you are a professional at what you do and you take great pride in your work!
Pride in workmanship really stands out! Excellent tutorial, one that I'll remember for sure. It's obvious from the neighborhood that top professionals are hired. Your craftsmanship is a great example of that.
Excellent way to deal with the scarf joint! I never thought of doing it that way. I used to use a little domino if the trim was thick enough and used a 45 degree cut. Your method with the backer glued in and using the DAP spackling is a good idea. Have to try that this week. Keep the great videos coming! Ron
I must say you are a professional, I have watched several of your videos and all were above reproach !!! To all you builders of which I am Quality work takes time. Pay for the time, don't expect a $3500 dollar job for $1000. Keep up the great work.
Im not only glad to see the professionalism and pride you take in your work, but how so many others are able to appreciate it and learn from it. That gives me hope for the future of our beloved America, and how once again The "Made in USA" label will be the Diamond standard in quality and workmanship like it buse to be back in the 50's , until it got replaced by "Made in Germany" , and "made in Japan" and obviously there was a reason for that. Thanks again.
Great job my friend, your patience to perfect this is really the key here. All my years in the trades was about trying to get it done quicker, which is fine if you've spent the time to perfect your work, but it can also lead to a job your not proud of. You can always do it better.
I think that's what I use as well, that way one board sits on top of the other and you can shoot some nails that go through both boards at the same time.
True. Thats how I've always done it here in Minnesota. Maybe he's not as worried about wood movement in Texas? Its interesting how joints are cut different ways in different parts of the country. What a lot of people also do which I think is the most bulletproof is to cut a butt joint and then reinforce it with a biscuit and or a piece of 1/4 plywood backing
He said they do the painting themselves. I wondered the same thing because if I will be followed by a paint crew then I would not fill the joints or nailheads, that's the responsibility of the painter. I just hang the trim, set the nails and get out. When you're doing the whole thing yourself it makes sense to do as much on a workbench as possible before hanging the molding. I use the same saw setup he does but I have a portable 12 foot bench to do the joining on (I am too old to work off the floor ; ) ). Whenever possible I will put the first coat of paint on before hanging the trim. That way I can spray the first coat and the last coat of paint is brushed on and goes pretty fast because you don't need to get close to the edges with the paint brush.
I am learning so much from you. Love that you are local. Only issue with the video is the air traffic from DFW. Keep up the good work cause I’m going to keep watching.
The nails for nail guns are glue coated and will stick into most substrates better than the hand nailed finish nails. The glue also makes them very hard to remove. Most plaster walls are hard enough that you need to pre-drill and therefor must find a stud to nail into. If you can get a nail into a plaster wall without bending it the nail will blow some of the plaster out so if you don't nail into a stud the trim will start to fall off before you can cash the check.
Hey,I got a tip for every American finish carpenter. Instead of using fractions and God knows what "hairs". Use millimetres. A mm is almost a 32 of an inch. It's as easy as counting to ten. No more guessing and thinking how to cut 15 foot 9 inches and 3 16ths into 4 equal pieces.
Base ten systems (metric) are not optimal for construction. Base 12 systems (imperial), like the one Americans use, is far easier because you can subdivide 12 into thirds far easier and more accurately than with metric. If you want to cut that 15' 9 & 3/16" piece into four equal parts, you don't need to guess. That's what simple math or the tape measure trick is for.
You're the man. So many tricks I'm excited to use. Doing a baseboard job this weekend...done a lot before.....but cant wait to employ your teachings. Keep it up.....we're watching...and learning!
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out my store! www.dfwcrown.com
We have a supply of CA glue that I use in my videos!
Kateelife
Kateelife
This guy is tops
Finish Carpentry TV couldn't you stand up the crown against the back rail, and 45 the seam? Or even the 22.5? (Corner mitres maybe flip.) That is.......if you don't have the little kicker\ adjusters that you use? Just curious. Definitely like you're work and yes.....keeping the eye away from seams is a pro thing. Hide the seams. You're in a nice neighborhood for a reason. Did you make you're overall length a little bit long for the snap in technique you referenced? ( On purpose I mean, like a strong "16th") Well that and your spackle and glue makes for a snug, nice installation. Good job man! Really good tutorial.
Paul Meinart s
Nice to see a young craftsman take such pride in his work and be willing to share his techniques.
He is incredible. Excellent explanation too.
Dude ... SERIOUSLY?? To be a MASTER Craftsman at such a young age is a special kind of incredible. Love watching you work and talk ... you are soooo laid back and calm, showing confidence like knowing the back of your hand. That's a far cry from the weekend DIY warriors like myself who spend more time cursing during projects from frustration, than actually working. LOL! WELL DONE, SIR!
This is probably the BEST channel for carpentry I've found. Outstanding.
Thank you so much for this video- My husband passed away recently and I am faced with doing lots of little things. I fixed 2 pieces of baseboard molding using your instructions. At least I don't see the seam anymore! You are a great teacher.
I watch these videos several times, over the course of weeks, along with some of his similar videos. After a while, it all begins to come together as he uses the same techniques in different ways on different projects. It really is a craft that takes time and effort to learn. He's very thorough.
Just love it when a tradesperson shows special attention to details. He should be very proud of his work. True craftmanship.
My friend, I hope you get top dollar for your work. I'm a Trim Carpenter myself and Most builders don't want to pay for the quality of work you are doing. I've watched some of your other videos for vaults and funky cuts, absolutely stunning work. I had to sub your channel and hope I can learn some different techniques for more custom work other than your standard basic trim. Thanks for making these types of videos for other carpenters such as myself and also beginners.
It is very hard to find builders that would pay for that quality, but I'm pretty sure he's on the remodeling end. I've been in both worlds and I've never found appreciation from builders for quality craftsmanship if it means they pay what's fair for it.
true
+T L S This is the thing that most people seem to overlook. Quality craftsmanship is what most workers want to be doing but you're limited by the client's budget, and most of the time there just isn't the budget there to allocate this amount of time.
But does it really take all day just to do good work? I bet if the the camera was turn off, as well as his teaching mode, he could whip that together in a few minutes.
Of course not, but when you're doing every aspect of a job to a high degree extra time costs money. This isn't to say that craftsmen are unable to do good work fast, but to do every aspect of a job to the highest degree of skill with the available amount of time is rarely feasible - I don't think any homeowner of craftsman would disagree with that.
That's the type of shit that separates the pros from ametuers!!! Then, he freely shares his knowledge in hopes of others benefiting from quality work as well. It takes a person who is confident in their work to do that!! I'm subscribing to this channel based on this video alone!!
Not really. This is the type of shit that separate people who want to spend a lot of money on their trim from those who don't.
Your a cowboy as well
I always tell people to wait 4 years to put crown on new home. Luckily our builders charge an arm and a leg to do it, so we get a LOT of crown molding jobs. Easy money
All that work on the sanding should be spent on markin studs and shooting into wood. Oh ya and cope your corners! This guy has attention to detail, but the wrong game plan. Come back in 5 years and you'll see why
@@andrewelmer9266 he does not need to cope the corners, the moulding is getting painted, easy to fill any gaps and paint, however he may even of measured the corner he's confident enough that the 45 degree will work. Cope the corners of it's staying natural or getting stained etc, totally agree there.
I am a old retired craftsman that does appreciates a person that cares enough about their work to get it right and better and better.. I would like to suggest after applying the compound use a damp sponge for removing abundance of material, then letting dry for a few minutes wipe again and after almost dry wet sponge and wipe even more... Sanding is not needed most of the time... Just a food for thought... Roger Fossette
as a painter, I love working on trim after professional work like this. makes me look better too.
Makes us all Look better for sure.
Also a painter and I can not agree more
Might feel differently if he left all those nail holes to fill.
Been watching you for a long time just for the joy of learning more woodworking skills. I have learned a lot from your videos.
Recently one of my children purchased their first home. Wanted to replace the baseboard as it was dated and worn.
This video was a huge help in getting a clean joint on a long wall. Just what I needed.
Thanks and keep sharing. We need it
I’ve been watching some of your videos for the last few months. Rarely am I impressed by guys on RUclips. Most of them watch a video and by the next week are posting an almost copy video showing others how to do what they are doing. They are suddenly an expert in that field because they’ve watched a few videos on the subject. You sir know what you are doing. You are dedicated to your craft and do it very well. I rarely hire someone to do work around the house because I am rarely impressed by their work...so I just do it myself. I’d hire you in a second to do trim work around here. You are very well spoken and a hard worker. Most young guys could learn a lot by watching you. Keep up the good work. If you ever come down to H-town, I’ll take you out for a beer
Sorry mate he hasn't got a clue
I LOVE this channel. I wanted to become a finish carpenter back in my 20’s but I was a working musician and didn’t want to risk my hands around power tools every day. I’m now a technician and make a good living, I’m 51 but always watch this kind of stuff because I miss not having pursued this as a career.
Keep up the awesome work. Maybe one day I can rent a workshop and build furniture for a hobby 😄
When I saw his name I thought he was a carpenter from Finland. But then I noticed the houses he worked on didn’t have a Finnish style.
I'm a DIY homeowner that is adding crown moulding to a master bedroom.
The videos you have shared here have helped quite a bit in figuring out joints on the longer runs...
and doing inside/outside corners.
Thanks for doing these videos.
I’ve been doing 45s for 40 years. You my friend just taught an Old Dog a new trick! 22 1/2 it is from now on.
This video changed the way I've done molding for the past two years, Now I make whole super glued sub-assemblies to go around end walls. Best fitting corners ever, even on less than straight walls. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Drydex will crack when you lift it up from the prep surface. I prefer to finish the seam after the installation. Btw, Crack shot works better.
Over all - Excellent video. Please let me make a few suggestions.
1) I've been using CA glue since 1979. Looks like you're using Bob Smith brand which is a good, general purpose CA glue. CA glue's come in Thin, Medium and Thick. In this video you used thin. No problem but please know you used way too much. CA glue's will hold just fine WITHOUT the use of an Activator or "Kicker" as we call it. Simply place it on ONE side and then put the two sides together and hold for a minute or two. The use of Activator (i.e. Kicker) is just to make the glue set up faster. However the problem is if you kick off the glue as you did.. it immediately wants to set... thus you had to shove your 2 pieces together quickly. And, sometimes you can't get your joints lined up straight before the glue kicks off. The correct way is to place Thin or Medium CA glue on one side. Position your parts together then KICK off the seam with the activator. The Activator will get into the seam and kick the glue via capillary action.
2) Another problem with kicking off the glue they way you did is that you had to use way too much to give you time to position your parts. CA glue is kind of expensive so that was a waste. Next, looking at the bottom you had chunks of HARD glue and dirt / concrete. Sanding off hardened CA glue is... well it's HARD. The kicker makes it foam up and it makes little hard glue spots which are hard to sand. 3) Last, you should consider sweeping the area you are going to work on of all debris before your work on it. Dirt, grit, sawdust... whatever. I like to buy wax paper from a Dollar Store and put down a 12" piece. CA won't stick to waxed paper or if it does... it will peel off easily.
Keep up the good work and thanks for all of your video's.
Kolin Ken l.p.
Appreciate the knowledge - makes a lot of sense.
Great advice! Had no idea activator could penetrate from surface into seam. This will greatly reduce my anxiety on glue ups from now on.
He probably ground some dirt into the face of the molding when he flipped it over to glue the backer board too.
Correcting some of Kolin's correction, with more fine points:
Kolin is correct in that you don't need the activator for CA gluing of a wood joint, and that the purpose of it is only to accelerate the curing to save you some time. Also very true that in the video above, Richard is using far too much glue. The stuff is truly powerful, to the point where less is far better. Also far less expensive that way! I personally use small dots of it along one side of a joint when working on baseboards or casing, or short dashed lines of it when the joint is larger. This has the extra benefit of allowing the glue a place to expand to when pushing the joint together, which also allows the joint itself to be more tightly pushed together for a superior fit/result. Otherwise, you're trying to smash a giant smear of that glue into a paper-thin plane. It'll actually hold the joint farther apart with that much applied.
Secondly, spraying activator directly on the glue like Richard is doing immediately starts the curing, which hinders the glue from spreading out properly when pushing it together. It also drastically shortens the time you have to orient the two pieces accurately. Pretty much why he suddenly had to shove them together. What happens if you miss on that first try is that you have to cut the piece off and do it over with another section of crown, saving the cutoff for use in another location. On that note, having to actually sand the crown down to get it to fit means you did miss, and it'll 100% show once finish paint is applied.
The proper use of CA and activator is that the glue is applied to one side of the joint, and activator *to the other*. This gives you more time to correctly orient the details of the pieces and push them together carefully, instead of a panicked shove. Two helpful tips are: 1) However you choose, be sure to push that CA glue a bit into the fibers of the one piece for a better connection, like maybe with the tip of the applicator bottle. And 2): Allow the spray activator to evaporate for a few seconds before joining the pieces. The wetness is only the acetone carrier of the actual chemical that 'kicks' the glue. Once the acetone evaporates, it'll leave behind that chemical to do its job and bond with the glue when the pieces are joined.
If you've done all the above and slowly/carefully pushed the pieces together (yes, you'll have time), you should have a joint that needs no filling or sanding whatsoever, paints up beautifully, and is super strong.
Last point: *always* respect a client's property. Yes, that even means the sidewalk. I'd be pissed if I hired a finish guy to do some trim on my house and he didn't put something beneath his glue work and left blobs of it all over my sidewalk. Just saying, as this is super common mistake that tradespeople make, and an easy adjustment to make in your routine. I guarantee it'll make you a star when that certain homeowner takes notice of how much you cared about all areas of their property.
I've watched a number of your videos.
You clearly had a great ability to TEACH others how to do trim techniques.
Professionals...as well as HOMEOWNERS...would do well to watch your entire series.
I'm a builder and i've never seen any of my guys take the time to properly make a seam disappear. They all make excuses about their seams coming apart later, now I know how it should be properly done. Great job!!!
I've never seen a builder build anything except his own ego.
Good chance you don't pay properly.
He builds garbage houses , if you watch his videos they are evident of that.
yeah i'm a trim carpenter and they are usually quantity not quality. Want done fast and a good job. lol not happening
You're not a builder, you're a contractor. There's a huge difference.
Amazing. Thanks for teaching us. I just did a whole house, the customer loved it. Thanks to you!
We are in the midst of doing our place so I've been watching all of your videos and have learned a lot of tips and tricks... the main reason why I chose to do this myself is because it's hard to find someone that takes pride in their work so I figured I would give it a go, but it sure is nice to see the pride you put into your work, it gives hope people may start to bring back that trait... thanks for the video help...
You have a great manner in which you pass on your knowledge , I hope you take great comfort in knowing you are both educating and entertaining your audience.
You've made me realize something... I did a horrible job trimming my living room. Fudge!
Learning the hard way sucks! Lol.
You are not alone!
That sure had to be hard to use the word FUDGE!!! Lol!
A little caulk and a little paint, makes a job what it ain't
i made a mistake too
It is very rare these days to see someone take such care and pride in their work. Thankyou.
Thanks! You gave me the instruction I needed. I'm a first time moulding hanger, and I've got the confidence to do it alone.
Just wanted to add a comment here. I tried the method shown here with great results. Your videos have provided the direction I needed to install crown at my daughter house. It was a comedy of errors at the beginning but I just kept on working at it and everything got better as I gained some confidence. And while the results have been terrific, building the skills has been the real reward. I would have never tried this without your channel. So, a big thanks to you. Very cool stuff.
I love the "welding wood" comment. You have some great skills. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the RUclips Community.
Richard, your videos and instructions have given me the confidence to start crown molding installation, as well as board/batten, shiplap, nickel gap, and some wainscoting. Thanks to you, I've had great success and now every family member and neighbor wants to "hire" me. Thank you for inspiring me. As for building your own doors from scratch, you're doing an awesome job, and it's enlightening to see that just like me, you continue to learn, and improve every day. Well done!
Hi watched your video and its a great instruction.
Im a carpenter, interior system and finish carpenter.
Not easy to work with crown molding. The splice you used 22 degree is the method i use.
Conspicous placement over the cabinets great choice.
I am 100% NOT a carpenter or finish carpenter, rather an electrician redoing my basement. Your videos are wonderful for a guy like me that has no clue what he is doing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I am very impressed with your work and work ethic.
Love your excellent videos. One helpful hint for you. Put your CA glue on one side and spray your accelerator on the other side. As you bring the two pieces together, your glue kicks off. You have more time to bring the pieces into proper alignment before the CA glue is permanently hardened.
Richard is a finishing baller and what makes him the pro that he is, is his willingness to share with those like me, without the selfishness or concern of someone stealing ideas. Thank you Richard. Phil
I'ts also impressive how he lowers his voice when he's in the customer's home. This guy is a good contractor!
Most contractors are hacks....let's call this guy a craftsman.
@@XBKLYN you’re kidding right? I’m sure the neighbors aren’t very thrilled with all the saw dust going everywhere. No blankets, no nothing. Then the dumbass admits to pulling up the concrete? I’m sure the homeowners are thrilled.
@@mim2046 😂🤣🤣🤣
Because he doesn't want the customer to know he's charging them to make a RUclips video.
@@CurvedSlightly 😂🤣🤣🤣
I've been a carpenter for over 20 years and I totally enjoy this guy's videos. He is great trim carpenter and smart to do videos
I'm about to tackle my crown and base boards. I wanted to thank you for putting these vids out for us to see you do it. very grateful
As a business owner, with years of experience in both commercial and residential project management, I can tell you that your skill, attitude, and attention to detail is way above what we typically see. I believe in treating any of the skilled tradesman that work for me well when it comes to compensation. Base workers make $12-15 hr, knowledgeable renovations workers make $15-18hr, skilled trade workers $20-24, and any sub-contract type individual workers with skill and ability anywhere from $25-35hr. There have been times that I have even paid $40-45hr. All of this is in Oklahoma where cost of living is crazy low. I would absolutely love to have a tradesman like you on my team, but it is nearly impossible to find. There are guys who have promised the moon, but simply cant deliver when it comes time.
You will always have work available as long as you dont become complacent. Keep up the good work
You are really helping me bring the quality of my work to a very high standard. Thank you!
Excellent video’s!
These lessons have taught me so much. You’re videos are so incredibly valuable in my DIY work at home. I’m doing work that looks professional and I’ve never done crown. Thank you!!
Just followed this man's method on some baseboard moldings....absolutely fantastic; cant even find the seam....thanks brother!!!
I have been a painting contractor for 19 years and wish that all finish carpenters did it this way, not only would it make my job easier it is a much better looking product in the end for the customer, and isn't that what they deserve. Thanks for sharing I am going to forward this to my all my GC that I sub for. Thanks again.
It's always very comforting to see that not all contractors are created equal, and even more satisfying to see that the Younger Generations are not only about Quantity but Quality. Great job Young Man!!
Keep up the great technics, and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
What video are you watching
I can tell you're a perfectionist, and I like it! Great job, very thorough in your explanation and your work. No one will notice that there's no seam - but people notice when there is!!! That's the point, don't give em something to complain about! Nice work guys. I'm not even doing crown molding but I watched this whole video in suspense lol.
Bro!!! All the praises you get here in the comments you deserve it, you are a true craftsman. God bless you. And thank you for sharing.
Great tips, particularly on the choice of the scarf joint, the uses of the Bosch laser measuring tool, the practical uses of CA glue and the spray accelerator in finish work, the use of light weight spackle, the quick cuts with the chop saw, etc. A little something for every DIYer.
OMG! I feel the love in your workmanship. I watched this whole video and I am not even interested in doing this, but if I consider it I would want to hire you.
Are you Americans on drugs his work is shit
@@user-jx2ei1kh4q, please show me what you would do.
@@user-jx2ei1kh4q are you blind
@@scottpreston5074 he can't it is just words
Troll 😂
I have been doing finish carpentry for years and I learn something new in every video of yours.
Wow, love your channel. I’ve been doing trim for a lot of years and just never really knew the whole backer board trick. Now I can apply this to 16+ ft headers and such and spackle the seam instead of caulk! I will have to try the CA glue, been using hot glue gun with Gorilla glue sticks with pretty good results but CA looks less messy:)
Every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something new. I’m truly grateful, thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing. I’m just a guy trying to make my little house look nice for my wife and kids. Your advice and the time you take to explain the reasons behind what you are doing are much appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Hope your doin good bud
Richard, I probably have already commented on this video - so appreciate your generosity with your knowledge - your kindness is awesome. I hope you continue to have great success!
I'm a professional painter. I wish I worked behind carpenters like you. Well done!
Just used this tutorial to join seams in my newly installed crown moldings. Absolutely perfect technique! Thanks so much!
Man I'm so glad I came across your channel I'm new to remodeling and I want to do the best job I can. Your vids are awesome
After watching a lot of finish carpentry videos from all over the world, I have noticed something. All of them (the carpenters) are very calm in their demeanor. Very methodical in their approach, not rushing and overall, rather 'quiet' people in general.
This is a clear demonstration of the difference between shotty apartment maintenance and professionals.
Suave Chiang these are just really good apartment maintenance guys...pros would be installing poplar not mdf
Michael Osmon you have no idea what the moulding industry is like. very expensive mouldings are made of polyurethane. not poplar. MDF is the heartbeat of the game at this point. check my stuff. I'm not a maintenance guy bro.
dfw crown Yeah and all your nailguns are made of plastic these days, doesn't make it the best option, just cheapest for production and profits. I install trim everyday man you don't know me.
I make 8 profiles of crown from any species in my shop. Tell me again how I don't know the industry
Michael Osmon you don't know the industry.
I'm going to put more thought and precision into my future projects after seeing how much you care about your work. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Nice job
I totally get the "having competitions to find the seam"
It makes good carpenters better
I used this on a house full of crown, including the 22.5 miter, and I'm here to tell ya it makes the best joints. Many thanks brother for all the tips, you've definitely made me a better trim carpenter.
14:12 : “Can’t see the line, can you Russ? Nope!”
14:22 :Even he’s crying as he looks at that perfection!
Awesome video and talent brother!
Excellence at its Finest! I’m so glad I found your channel. I’m feeling a lot more confident on installing this in my living room now. Thanks for sharing 😊⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
absolute passion and perfection!! No matter what or how you do anything, there will always be someone hating. I know you sleep well at night. Thanks for the video
"hating"? Really? Define hating...
Its good to see people when they care about their job quality and pay attention to detail!!!!
I have three questions. 1) Why not a coped joint on the inside corner? 2) Did you guys even try to nail into a stud or ceiling joist, or is all that molding nailed into sheetrock only? 3) Is their a reason for not letting your miter saw achieve its maximum rpm before you pull it through the cut? Just curious.
What's the problem? All his questions are valid.
Its a very valid question about where they are nailing. Relying on sheetrock to hold the nails seems to make all the work done to hide a scarf joint irrelevant.
My brother and I have been trimming our parent's house out after Irma ruined it and we've had to hire labor and it's been spotty. Guys oversell their ability like crazy in the Keys. We got a stucco guy who did amazing work and he said he also did finish carpentry. He showed up in a box truck full of tools and like I said did great stucco work and even repaired the wood under the stucco. So, we hired him to help finish trimming the interior and holy crap was that a mistake. We have one of those new dual Battery Makita slide dual bevel miter saws and it perplexed him to no end, then he crushed the lock mechanism on the plate somehow. I watch him cutting crown and does he flat cut it? NO. You have a top line sliding miter saw and he owns a sliding dual saw as well, so I cannot figure out whey he's cutting the crown backwards using a block of 2x12 cut into a 45 degree jig, instead of flat cutting it or using the damn fence extensions. Then there are gaps in the miters in the 32 and 45 degree cuts you could put a silver dollar in. Then he comes to me and asks what's this shit job on my base board and shoe. He'd never seen straight run trim before and coped a corner in his life. I know a lot of guys haven't, but he'd never seen it before. Our main carpenter hates coping. He's good at it, but it frustrates him but he's at least seen the stuff. Both these guys are 50, like my, so it's not for lack of experience. But anyway, back to the crown molding. So Rey is hanging this crown in the bedroom and i notice the next day that it's sagging all over the place. Not only did he just shoot it into drywall, but he used freakin 18 gauge brads. I had to renail most of it. Same with the 8 ince base we're using. Just shot the damn brads right into the drywall. I had to use 2.5 inch nails shot in at angles to get the base to suck against the wall a lot because the drywallers just sucked moose balls. I mean damn, you can't hang trim by not shooting nails into wood.
he's above two windows, there's studs all over the place
i was really curious why they don't cope. what do you do if the corner isn't true? mitering inside corners seems to be a waste of time to me, but either way, I think he did a great job gluing up that scarf joint
Thank you for the quality of video as well as the level of detail and knowledge you share. I recently acquired approximately 200 Pieces of 5-8 ft crown molding for free. Your videos will help our house look amazing!!! Thank you!
You’re like the Bob Ross of Trim Carpentry... keep up the great content.
Not sure why this comment does not have thousands of likes. Simply hilarious!
@@Iamk2jones thanks... 😂
-So luxurious to have a second carpenter and, really the quality but more expensive approach. Years ago i used to have to tack 4 or 6d finish nails just below the crown, hook one end up close to the joint and walk the other end up from about the 2/3rds point. I'd have the piece cut strong and the coped ends would very slightly crush against the mating piece(s). I too would have loved that glue you use. Back then I'd tack the joint to the sub-floor with some wax paper below and wait a day. -Did he same for round or arched window trim by scribing the arcs and pinning (with a nail spinner) till the glue dried a day, chiseling and sanding the glue squeeze out on the faces and holding my breath as I released the trim and carefully walked it over to the casing. -So wonderful to see you carrying the torch. When in Houston briefly twenty years ago it was heartbreaking to peek in on off hours and see the construction being done in some McMansions in residential areas. Before the Internet, especially before recent streaming ,I leaned on my father's work as my example as I silently labored for him, 'Then, to my delight there was Fine Homebuilding magazine which I discovered in it's second year and shared a subscription with my dad.
It's helps to actually nail it into the studs in the walls and trusses in the ceiling then just where ever. Plus less holes to fill
Careful with the nail gun. There is electrical wires and plumbing in the wall. Predominantly between the studs. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Not true- if you are doing paint grade and know how to use caulking and make it tight it doesn’t matter if you get studs
@@adrianitis3750 the concern is more toward damaging utilities in the wall spaces. It happens quite often. Sometimes a nail will puncture, but seal a plumbing pipe only to start leaking months or years later causing significant water damage inside the walls.
@@premierreefsmn they are most likely using inch or inch and a quarter Brad's which with this thickness of crown molding, it will barely go through the back of the drywall. They're relying on crossaction anchoring to hold the crown in place pushing against drywall down and towards the wall on each side of the crown.
Agreed
Beautiful work. Attention to detail is what it takes and that is the best I’ve ever seen. I don’t do this for a living I just do DIY stuff and I’ve never done crown molding because it’s just bugs me don’t know what I’m doing. Those people are lucky to have someone like you working for them
From a master carpenter, excellent job!!
Remember to find the studs in the wall......
Sorry you are not a master carpenter his work is a mess
Kudos to you for the talent and quality of work you do.
Finally building a house for myself. Can’t wait to use some of your techniques when installing the trim.
I enjoy watching all your videos.
As a painter for 30+ years I've never had any finish carpenters do that good of work. They always left it for us to fix!
Agreed
Yea. I've seen really bad "professional" installations.
I really admire a workman that does their absolute best with no shortcuts. Great job! If I ever need trim work done, I hope I find someone just like you,
As a painter I love to see this kind of work lol
As a simple DIYer trying to fix flood damage in my own home, THANK YOU for taking the time to post these videos. I had so many "handy men" come out to fix our crown and all they did was F*ck it up! Taking the info from this video and implementing it to our long piece of crown as well.
I REALLY wish you would have put a finished pic of the crown after paint, I would've LOVED to see it!
Love watching a craftsman at work, its a lost art. Great job, I'd hire you in a new York minute.
This is by far the best video on RUclips. You really understand the art and technical aspects of your craft! Excellent job explaining and showing each process. Amazing!😊
Just started watching your videos. Kudos for an impeccable work ethic. I have been building and remodeling houses for over 30 years and love that no matter how old you are or how long you have been at your craft there is still more to learn. Also love seeing the young people involved in the trades!! What is the glue and activator and where do you get it? Awesome job and thanks for the knowledge!!
I just want to give you a shout out about how much I appreciate your videos and have used your tips and know how in my own DIY home projects. Keep up the great work.
You are good, young man! A skilled workman!!!
Sir, you make me want to get into the profession and I don't even know how to begin to start. It's obvious that you are a professional at what you do and you take great pride in your work!
This is what I do for a living and I felt in love with his confidence and nice job he does
Man I'm so glad I came across your channel I'm new to remodeling and I want to do the best job I can. Your vids are awesome
Pride in workmanship really stands out! Excellent tutorial, one that I'll remember for sure. It's obvious from the neighborhood that top professionals are hired. Your craftsmanship is a great example of that.
Wow! I've never seen that technique before! I'll definitely try it, the next time I'm doing something requiring a seam!
cool. let me know how it goes
Excellent way to deal with the scarf joint! I never thought of doing it that way. I used to use a little domino if the trim was thick enough and used a 45 degree cut. Your method with the backer glued in and using the DAP spackling is a good idea. Have to try that this week.
Keep the great videos coming!
Ron
Amazing work, now imagine doing all that work and putting it in place just to find out you cut it short🤦♂️
I must say you are a professional, I have watched several of your videos and all were above reproach !!! To all you builders of which I am Quality work takes time. Pay for the time, don't expect a $3500 dollar job for $1000. Keep up the great work.
You are an excellent tutor
thanks a lot. i try to keep it simple
Its working. You have a knack for presenting.
Awesome workmanship, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
thanks!
@@FinishCarpentryTV I am a finish carpenter for 45 yrs. Everything in your video, othe video
Every thing in your video, except for the chemicals, i was taught 40 years ago. Keep the tradition!
Im not only glad to see the professionalism and pride you take in your work, but how so many others are able to appreciate it and learn from it. That gives me hope for the future of our beloved America, and how once again The "Made in USA" label will be the Diamond standard in quality and workmanship like it buse to be back in the 50's , until it got replaced by "Made in Germany" , and "made in Japan" and obviously there was a reason for that. Thanks again.
little details make all the difference.great job!
they sure do. thanks a lot
Great job my friend, your patience to perfect this is really the key here. All my years in the trades was about trying to get it done quicker, which is fine if you've spent the time to perfect your work, but it can also lead to a job your not proud of. You can always do it better.
He left out the best option which would be a 90* scarf joint cut at a 45.
I think that's what I use as well, that way one board sits on top of the other and you can shoot some nails that go through both boards at the same time.
Also, when using real wood, you see wood if the joint separates rather than a gap. :)
True. Thats how I've always done it here in Minnesota. Maybe he's not as worried about wood movement in Texas? Its interesting how joints are cut different ways in different parts of the country. What a lot of people also do which I think is the most bulletproof is to cut a butt joint and then reinforce it with a biscuit and or a piece of 1/4 plywood backing
Excellent video - great job describing every step and reasons why attention to detail counts. I'm learning a ton!
Lol so many nails, your painter must love you.
He said they do the painting themselves. I wondered the same thing because if I will be followed by a paint crew then I would not fill the joints or nailheads, that's the responsibility of the painter. I just hang the trim, set the nails and get out. When you're doing the whole thing yourself it makes sense to do as much on a workbench as possible before hanging the molding. I use the same saw setup he does but I have a portable 12 foot bench to do the joining on (I am too old to work off the floor ; ) ). Whenever possible I will put the first coat of paint on before hanging the trim. That way I can spray the first coat and the last coat of paint is brushed on and goes pretty fast because you don't need to get close to the edges with the paint brush.
I am learning so much from you. Love that you are local. Only issue with the video is the air traffic from DFW. Keep up the good work cause I’m going to keep watching.
No backers and no cope? Are you just nailing into the drywall?
Yes, that very common and works well, I've done it for years.
ya, i was wondering the same thing. no stud nailing, or breaks on studs? interesting
No reason to break on a stud with that treatment he put on that seam. Never seen anything like it.
The nails for nail guns are glue coated and will stick into most substrates better than the hand nailed finish nails. The glue also makes them very hard to remove. Most plaster walls are hard enough that you need to pre-drill and therefor must find a stud to nail into. If you can get a nail into a plaster wall without bending it the nail will blow some of the plaster out so if you don't nail into a stud the trim will start to fall off before you can cash the check.
Who sells the glue coated nails ? Like home depot ?
Great work and great instruction! The eagerness to share our knowledge is a sign of a true craftsman and steward of his craft.
Hey,I got a tip for every American finish carpenter. Instead of using fractions and God knows what "hairs". Use millimetres. A mm is almost a 32 of an inch. It's as easy as counting to ten. No more guessing and thinking how to cut 15 foot 9 inches and 3 16ths into 4 equal pieces.
shawnyblaze Agreed, metric is so much easier.
Crazy
I only use a metric ruler when marking out for drawer pulls an knobs
Base ten systems (metric) are not optimal for construction. Base 12 systems (imperial), like the one Americans use, is far easier because you can subdivide 12 into thirds far easier and more accurately than with metric. If you want to cut that 15' 9 & 3/16" piece into four equal parts, you don't need to guess. That's what simple math or the tape measure trick is for.
@@gmmay70 you know that in metric we got this thing called decimals 😉
You're the man. So many tricks I'm excited to use. Doing a baseboard job this weekend...done a lot before.....but cant wait to employ your teachings. Keep it up.....we're watching...and learning!