How to Install Window & Door Trim - Casing Made Simple
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2016
- Learn how to install window and door trim and the tools and techniques you'll need.
How To Install Chair Rail: • How to Install Chair R...
Click on the link to learn more about the Leica laser level: lasers.leica-geosystems.com/li...
Jon Peters Art Gallery: jon-peters-art-home.myshopify....
Facebook: / 312021729836
Website: jonpeters.com/
Instagram: / jpartandhome
Ebay Store: stores.ebay.com/JP-Art-and-Home 
Хобби
WOW Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. Perfect.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
That's a very helpful video, Jon. Thanks.
April Wilkerson recommend your channel and I can see why. Great video. Lots of great tips for amateurs like me without being patronising. Looking forward to watching more.
The finish nail as an extra hand to mark your miters is such a simple trick! Always learning something new, thank you
Thanks Paul
An easier way to mark the reveal is to make a guide out of hardwood (for durability) scrap. Take two pieces of 3/4-inch material about two inches square and assemble them -- very precisely -- with glue and a couple nails so they are offset 1/4 inch. The guide simply rests in the corners of the window jam extensions for marking the reveal. If your reveal is other than 1/4 inch it is easy to make several guides. Keep them with your shims and they will be easy to find. These guides are also handy for marking the reveal at several places along the casing, as long pieces of slender material such as MDF can sag and make the reveal inaccurate.
Thank you for such a clear demo. I’m ready to do this.
Closing in on the big 200K! Congrats
Hi there. Nice video. What happens with the nail heads?
True Craftsman. GREAT JOB!
Try using syroflex as your adhesive (it’s white and application is similar) and cutting your miters with a 1 degree compound angle so you can really get nice tight joints. Also like to use 16 gauge nails for nailing into framing. I appreciate that tip about holding your nail gun, I never knew that!
Very informative, thanks for sharing!
Outstanding! Thanks for sharing!
Great video. My wife and I are looking to add crown molding (i believe it's 3 piece molding) on the outside of our windows. How would we go about diy'ing the molding ourselves? Thanks!
this was very informative and helpful!!
thank you!!
Great video!
Looking good, John! Going to help a buddy with trim in a couple months so this is helpful!
great video, helpful tips!
Another great video, thanks. Maybe in a future one you could show how to work around out of square jambs and the like.
Thanks so much for the tips! Now I can trim my window with confidence!!! God bless you! :😊
Great video Jon, Thanks man. subbed
Anyone else see Jon's dreamy locks wave at us at 7:49? :-) Nicely done!
I like the finish nail to support the piece - smart.
I used to hate cutting the moldings round a door >.> you've made it so easy with your lil corner off cut trick
I know that the ceiling is White Dove and the walls are Revere Pewter, but what is the blue paint color in other room, in the background? The three colors look so good together!
Great tips thank you!!!
That's absolutely gorgeous.
Thanks for a great video. I would like to see a video of installing a door/casing as well.
great video sir! thanks
What gauge nails did you use to attach the trim to the wall?
very good job. and a good saw too.
Good tips Thank you ,, Regards from Saudi Arabia
that is the best tip / trick I have ever seen thank you
Very helpful!
Great show!
I was looking for what is the reveal or why its used, your video its the only one explaining that , Thanks for sharing
Thank you for sharing. Great Job...
+E Caff Thank you
Nice Video Jon
Great video. Sorry for my comment about the lawnboy video. This was awesome. Thanks for the great tips. Again, sorry.
Muy bien gracias por los tips señor que tipo de pistola o clavado se puede saber gracias 🔨
Very good job 👍🏽
Unless for a custom installation, all doors come in standard sizes. A 2'0" door = 24" inside of jamb to inside of jamb. A 2'4" door = 28" inside to inside, 2'6" 30" etc.. Side jambs from bottom to inside of top jamb measures 80". A properly installed door with tight joints this does not vary. I've been doing trim carpentry for years and I've watched carpenters repeatedly measure from door to door to fit trim. IT DOES NOT CHANGE!!!
For a 1/4" reveal add 5/16" for each miter cut. For example a 2'6" door measuring 30" inside to inside of jamb, for your top trim, add 5/8" from short point to short point of your two miters for a total of 30 5/8". Your side jambs are going to measure 80 5/16" from square end to short point of miter. This will give you an even 1/4" reveal all around the door. For a 2'8" door your top trim will measure 32 5/8" short to short, your side jambs 80 5/16" square end to short point. A 6'0" slider, 72" inside to inside, cut 72 5/8" for your short to short on top, 80 5/16" square to short for your sides.
The number of times I've watched experienced carpenters go from a 2'6" door and have to walk back and forth from miter box to door to mark the trim, then rinse and repeat on the next 2'6" door or the opposite side of the same door. Those measurements didn't change and yet they, measure and cut, measure and cut. So many wasted steps back and forth. As a lead carpenter having to account for man hours/man days on trimming a house those wasted trips add up to a lot of wasted man hours. This method does not in any way jeopardize your quality but will save you lots of time.
Windows often will differ in size but you can employ the same trick. Measure your window inside of jamb to inside of jamb all the way around. WRITE IT DOWN. Add 5/8" short point to short point of your miters for each piece of trim. Measure and cut all your trim at one time at the saw. It will fit perfectly with a 1/4" reveal all around your window. This will save all those steps back and forth, your trim will fit perfectly without all the nails for support, marking the miter and back to the saw to make the cut, then back to the window for install.
If you want or need to mark set backs for your reveals. Make a simple setback jig. Cut a 3" square of 1/4" plywood. Cut another piece 2 3/4" square. Glue one surface, align two sides of the smaller piece with the larger piece. This will leave a 1/4" step on two sides of the larger piece. Place this jig with the smaller piece inside of the corner of your jamb, the larger piece will be laying on the face of the jamb. Mark each side of the corner, there is your 1/4" setback on both sides. After trimming a few hundred doors and windows, hopefully you will train your eye to gauge a 1/4" reveal without having to mark every one.
Today I installed door trim and it was 81 on one side and 80 7/8 other. Brand new construction So ...........?
A standard door jamb measures 80" from the bottom of the side jamb to the bottom of the head jamb. Overall height to top of head jamb would only be 80 3/4". In 30+ years of home building I've not seen this vary. Except in custom installations for non-spec installs. ( I sometimes saw this on pocket doors in old turn of the century Victorians I've restored.)
Unless the carpenter that installed that door held it up off the floor. Which is how I hang doors. The gap beneath the jamb allows carpet layers to tuck carpet/pad under, instead of having to trim around the jamb/trim. This makes for a much cleaner install. If you followed and held your trim down tight to the floor, this could account for your deviation. So........? I don't know what to tell you.
Holy shit. So helpful. Thank you for your tips!
Never worked on an old house eh?
@@davidjohnston1971
Wrongo buddy.
I have two companies here in Michigan that have two different heighths flom bottom to top of jamb and jamb thickness as well.
One is 81" ,the other 81 3/8.
True we measure one of each size of door for general head casing,but if you hang solid core doors and hold them up for hardwood without removable shims . They tend to drop on the hinge side unless you set each hinge with longer screws .
Also, many times the hardwood,tile, vinyl is already set and it's up to the finish carpenters on my crew to make sure the doors are st and trimmed tight to the surface.
As a prior framer as well.I will tell you that with materials today the floor within the jamb space can vary,so even with a finished floor we set a level across the opening and cut the jamb on the high side to give a level head jamb. Without that step. Your 45 s are never tight. And if your guys were proficient enough in hanging and trimming doors .They'd have it down to a routine.
There's a difference between a trimmer and a finish carpenter.
One only cares that he doesn't see it from his house.
In the case of the wall (drywall) being higher or lower behind the trim; either causing a void between the casing and trim or making the trim lay proud of the wall? I think I know the answer, but am not certain.
Nice clean job
Hi there, a was wondering what kind of saw blade are you using with the MDF? How many teeths has the blade?
great work very pro
wow you make it look easy
Jon, on the Windows did you use back banding on the bottom casing on the Windows?
does the glue that you used on the back of the molding stick to the dry wall
Very nice , thanks a lot .... " Hppy Thanksgiving "
great video
I personally don't use nail gun & don't get nail crazy when installing any trim in the event I ever need to remove trim in the future & glueing trim? it's bad enough when I had to remove trim around bedroom doors plastered with nails thank goodness no glue was used it would have been even more of a nightmare.. Trim molding is not going anywhere by only using 4 fine nails to each side vertically & 3 nails max horizontally too many nails is overkill.. I also suggest pre drill all holes into wood approx 1/2" inwards from edge of trim with thinest drill bit so there is no splinnering cracking the wood trim, insert nails, line trim up to reveal line, start tapping nails in then center punch each one then fill with silicone, perfect install every time..
Thanks for this. I don't have a fancy gun and was just wondering if hammer and nails is a proper alternative.
thanks i needed to hear this. I recently installed trim and used zero adhesive after removing old trim thinking the nails were certainly enough. I tugged on my work and it wasnt going anywhere. I did throw a couple nails outside of the framing into pure drywall...i know its not doing much but it did take some play out of the edges meeting the drywall before caulking. Anyway im about to do some wall trim. ive seen a lot of adhesive on videos. necessary or same principle?
Nice vídeo
Thanks
Very nice 👍
Great video, I am about to upgrade all of my molding.
Pete N y
I love these videos and I was wondering if you plan on doing any archway moulding. That is what I want to do in my house but not much info about it on RUclips.
I second that request!
Great job after 35 years of building homes as a GC. trim work was always my favorite. You did a great job and would hire you in a heartbeat.
+Jack Holt Thanks Jack
Really......? This guy missed his mark for the miter cut by close to a 16th of an inch, and somehow that's an acceptable cut?.... Wow,..... things have really changed a lot in trim work.
I did miss that sorry I stand corrected. compared to what I have seen in the last 15 years his work was acceptable. And I will add, my work and quality of craftsmanship was among the best. Just sayin.
I don't doubt your ability nor the level of your craftsmanship, Jack. My remark wasn't really directed so much to you as it was to Jon. ... and I think you got that.
Jon has a lot of good tips in this video, and a few things that I would take issue with, as well.
Yeah, I agree with you that the work is acceptable........ really a sad commentary on how things have gotten in the trades.
Completely agree, Otto. I was like, yeah your miter cut was way off. Guess that's the mindset of people not being precise and just, "We'll just use painters caulk."
Nice tips with the 1/4 plywood and also the nail trick,have to remember that. Your house or clients house?
Do you have a video on exterior door trim that would attach to the outside of the house?
Great video. I especially like how you've clearly shown how to mark a measurement and then cut it on the saw. Thank you.
Were you going through drywall? Do you have to go into a stud with the nail? What if there is no stud where you're trying to secure the casing?
Thank you. I am trying to increase my usefulness for the company I work for. This is very helpful
Max Federle I say thanks for helping me out to do this on my house the guy knows his stuff.
Hi Jon--your title says it all --you ALWAYS make it look simple and your work ALWAYS looks GREAT!!! You are def. a master carpenter or master craftsman--may i ask what size your back-band is?
thank you tim
Thank you Tim
Good stuff
Great methods and great attention to detail. Only neg comment is to say all that glue against drywall is overkill.
I like this style molding where to buy this?
Hello Jon,
Another useful video. The back-band -- nice touch, by the way -- is slightly proud of the trim correct? Looks like it is, but want to make sure. Thanks! -Nick
Nice job bud
Old video, but where did you get that casing style from?
I haven't done a lot of trim work, so I definitely learned something, the using trim to mark directly your cuts instead of trying to measure makes a lot of sense as its more accurate and much faster, and the nail trick looks handy. You show marking and cutting the horizontal trim, but how to best cut vertical trim like on that doorway using trim, seems like we're back to using a tape measure.
My 2 cents I think some thin latex caulk would be better than wood glue and more removable if needed later on, while still giving adhesive bond. Also it wouldn't seep out of joints or run down the wall.
whats the mask you have? does it fog glasses and where do you buy them?
3:28 & 5:07 Is there a reason for leaving so much molding past your pencil line when you cut? I always thought the purpose of the pencil line was to mark the spot you actually plan to cut.
Good vid, I use a 23ga pin nailer if I have solid wood to nail to. Tiniest holes ever, most of time don't even need to white wax them or fill they are like hairs.
thank you
Thank you.
What brand and style of trim is that? I love it. It's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the tutorial!
Dang Karl. Hope you found your trim. Lol
Karl's still trimless :\
Any luck tracking this down? I'd love to know as well
Can you do a video on how to secure shiplap to wall with metal studs
I like your idea of using a nail to hold up the molding at 6:50. Have you ever considered moving the nail a few inches (in this case) to the right to be on the vertical piece of framing so that when you apply the vertical trim, it hides the nail? That way you wouldn't have to fill the small nail hole in the horizontal piece of door framing. Not that anyone would really ever notice it anyways.
Nevermind, I answered my own question. If you did that, once you cut the molding to size, it the nail wouldn't hold it. I'll leave my stupid suggestion here in case anyone else has the same 'bright' idea ;)
Nice saw... I have the 8 1/2...with a guard..lol...try using a CA glue...the joints are flawless
Hi John,
Really appreciate your videos and the work you do keep them coming. My Question is how would you go about trimming a vinyl window out with a jamb depth of 3.5 inches? Everything I've seen has to do with wood windows? Any advice? Just moved into my house a little over a year ago I almost positive you can't screw into the vinyl with the extension. Thanks for any response you might have.
This video will have 1M views at some point. So many of the other window/door trim videos skip over so many of the small details covered in this one. Well done.
Haha you were right bud
You mean to tell me you DON'T need a complete array of festool tools to do quality work?! 😉
Not if you know how to do great work with little amount of tools
Wash your mouth out with soap and water. Of course you need to have a wall of those beautiful systainer boxes. You are forgetting the first rule of modern woodworking - tools make the the carpenter. Wherever possible, get the most expensive option for any tool; choose by price - not features.
These are all great tips to have a workshop to be proud of when friends come by. Please remember that you don’t have to be able to use the tools or be able to do any job to be able to have a professional looking workshop. I’m prepared to come to your assistance on this one. I’m now producing the front panel of the systainer from all the over-priced manufacturers like Festool, Milwaukee out of MDF. So, now, for only £35 per front panel, you can have a workshop absolutely stacked with what looks like expensive tools.
Ever aspire to have that array of hand planes set on the back wall. You know, those planes that just shout “ I’m a great cabinet maker” whilst, in truth, you don’t know how to sharpen them - let alone use them. Well, we are working on a set of hand planes completely moulded out of plastic. They will look exactly like the real thing and, being plastic, you don’t have to have a sturdy display cabinet because they weigh nothing! We are looking at supplying each plane with a set of decals that you slip on. Names like Lie Neillson and Veritas.
We are also working hard on a new aspirational brand. These will be tools that are so expensive that you can barely afford them. And, once you have them, you will be scared to even use them. We are thinking of some obscure Japanese name for the brand - means nothing but then so do we. I’ve got a a Japanese guy I know to front the adverts; you know, sitting on the floor in those wide trousers and tabis looking philosophically at the rising sun and talking faux-Japanese. We will tell everyone that the wood used comes from the rarest tree in the world and only found on one remote island; it’s also the worst timber in the world for handles but you can’t have everything. The steel is made by a hermit who uses volcanic rocks from Mount Fuji; water from a spring in Laos; iron ore dug up by a tribe of aboriginals in the Outback. Actually, it all comes from Aldi but what the heck.
If you want to be one of the first persons to get access to all this crap, you only have to send me £50. Please put in an envelope and leave just outside my mental hospital. I should be out in about 20 years.
if you have a out of square frame that shows on a perfectly mitered trim what method would you use to overcome, thanks
Yes I agree that's how they get all the likes
Hello, thank you for the info. I have a quick question; Why you left a space between the window and the case? You called it out “reveal”?
it's for 'looks'. adding the reveal adds depth to the finished look of it, if you just nailed it flush with the window you wouldn't get this built up look to it. Possibly an additional reason is that if you tried to nail it flush with the window you might find that there is some warpage or bowing around the window and the straight casing would highlight the flaw.
What do you doing theres gaps in the casing
Why do you need a reveal. Does it serve a purpose or just for looks?
I like how you're tracing with the 1/4" plywood but what happens when your jamb isn't square? Does the correction happen with each mitre cut?
Thank you
Jon, this video was a great help to me. thanks. One question, when cutting the 45 degree angles on the trim do you have any tips on how to align the saw blade with the mark?
but my trimming is actual wood boards and this house is extremely old and antique, how do i take it out?
Thanks for the video, helps with a refresher. its been awhile sense i had to hang trim
Is it possible to paint all the trim before installing? Save cutting in to a line when painting afterwards?
Not really, you can prime first but you’ll still need to paint after installing
You just put nails on the inside edge of the trim. Will that be sufficient for any trim, door or window
Is it necessary to have the 1/4” reveal?
Lovely moulding Jon. Did you make it or is it off the shelf? Is it MDF? Great job in any case. Thanks.
Nice
Is there always supposed to be a 1/4 inch reveal or is that according to specifications?
Anywhere from 3/16 to 3 eights will work
Thanks for the tips/how to! Just installed my first ever door and framed it out with moulding. Thanks again!
Why not put the molding flush? I was trying to figure out what the “reveal” means?
When you have the reveal there, the shifting of the wood is harder to pick up by the human eye rather than flush corners that shift and aren’t so flush anymore.
Thanks