I am happy to see that you're busy enough to support the decision to open your own shop. Grats again to you and the family for reaping the rewards of the hard work and risk taken!
Ray, I have found that when taking nuts off studs on exhaust manifolds and such, first. run a thread chaser over the exposed threads of the stud to get at least some of the rust and corrosion off, so you don't have to drag the nut across that too. It can make a big difference, at least it has for me many times.
We had a Datsun (by Nissan) 510 back in... 1989-1990? It was like an '79-'80 maybe? Got a clogged cat. We didn't know much then. It would idle, but if you wanted to go, you had to have super high RPMs. My husband, boyfriend at the time, parked it blocking his dad's garage. His dad moved it to get the mower out, parked it, and shut it off, in 1st gear, and walked away. Next thing he knew, it was on fire, and hopping towards the house. He had a fire extinguisher, and used it up, with out effecting the fire. So he shoved it under the front tire to stop the car from setting the house on fire. The clogged cat caused the whole thing. The fire melted the ignition wires in the steering column together, so the starter engaged.... That was a CLOSE CALL!!! We never made the mistake of ignoring a loss of power again.
Some folks here have started grass fires with normal performing cats by pulling off the road and parking over tall grass. Those converters sure get hot.
My dad always said that the right tools for the job is the job half done. And knowing where your tools are is the other half. Best regards from Denmark
Ray, so much respect too you. Been here since day one. But you still in your older experience have not realized what an air impact hammer does to stuck exhaust nuts. Always try air tools with hammers before weak electric 3\8 ratchets. Air tools win every time buddy
Most shops depend on customers finding them not yours you have a closed 6-foot high gate and fence. I am glad it works for your business. Great videos.
I briefly had a Mazda GLC Station Wagon and the pipe off the manifold had to be replaced and it was a dealer only part. The local dealership was also Porsche/Audi; I ordered it from them and when it came in I didn't bring the original in with me, and of course it was the wrong one. When I came back, there was a guy who had picked up his new Porsche and it didn't have the floor mats, he told him they'd overnight them. When I got up to the counter, of course they couldn't overnight my part and ended up having to drive it with no exhaust for a week and a half. I was really pissed.This brougt back memories of that.
We had to fight collapsing interior exhaust walls in Ford LTD’s. I just got to where I would drop the exhaust lead pipes from the manifolds and take them on the interstate and find out real quick. Ford only wanted you to replace a piece at a time but after getting a warranty bill for the same labor over and over they got smart and replaced the whole exhaust. Back then there was no stainless steel exhausts yet.
Ah, I was getting a little worried, not getting a notification, because Ray’s show is my meditation in the morning before dealing with the day. I needs my peace of mind 😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂 Most redundant (🇺🇸) saying is “I’m gonna go ahead…” Why do you guys have to : go ahead and “remove the bold” , why can you just remove it? 😝 I’m gonna go ahead and say bye bye…😁
@10:30... Project Farm settled the penetrating oil debate. Gibbs is the best, followed by Liquid Wrench then Seafoam. Also, pre-soaking fasteners and letting them sit for 24 hours makes a huge difference in breakaway torque.
Very good channel! However, seeing the test condensed like you did is good for me! I'll have to admit, my attention is challenged with his redundant test shots. Thanks for the Clift Notes!
dont know if there is new help, but the new side was hid, but there seem to be more light where the new door is to go....and there was lots of noise comming from over there.....good job at hiding the evidence....lol stay tune folks...same Ray time and same Ray channel.....some will get the pun and some will not......lol
Haven't watched all the video yet but my go to for diagnosing a clogged cat was popping an O2 sensor out. That allows some flow to be restored without huge workloads usually
5:16 ECU RESET Every time you disconnect the battery the ECU recorded data is erased... a trick usually done when changing BTU/Octane rating on the fuel being added (for racing on the 2.3L DISI) On the CX-7 this result on the Traction Control and AWD/Traction lights turning on... something which will be fixed by turning the steering from extreme left turn position to the extreme right one. Also the automatic windows get disabled and one must manually lower them and then rise them using the button with the automatic pressing mode (just a little) Radio presets will be gone 😅
Ray! When learning basic electronic troubleshooting one first step (after visual inspection &.voltage/ground) was 'half-split.' I.E. look for signal HALF WAY between start and end.
I live in Northeastern Ohio and working on my 2007 F150 suck because all the rust on everything from all the years of salt. I love this truck because it only has 86,000 miles but is rusting pretty bad
Ray, why don't you get one of those in cylinder pressure transducers from Ivan? That would have answered the catalytic converter question in 10 minutes!
Ouch. I have the same (ish) motor in my Mazda, and those cats are not cheap because they're built into the turbo down pipe. You have to replace the whole thing.
This happened to my dad's 1973 Chevy Caprice back in the day. My dad thought the transmission was going out, and so did the guy at the transmission shop . After getting the TH350 automatic transmission rebuilt the car had the same problem. It would kick down to the passing gear but not upshift until you got out of the throttle without much acceleration. The transmission shop made some money off my dad. He took it to another shop and explained what the car was doing and the mechanic told my dad to rev the engine while he put his hand over the tail pipe. He told my dad this things not breathing right. My dad took it down to the muffler shop and had his buddy put dual glass packs on it. We didn't know that a 5000 pound battle cruiser could do a smokey burnout. Lol I found out later that it had a small block 400 in it when I checked the numbers on the block. No wonder
I had the issue on my early 70 big chevy wagon. They had factory installed double wall exhaust pipes, if you ran through water when the exhaust was hot the outer pipe would contract just enough to collapse the inner pipe, but the outer pipe would remain round. I was lucky enough to work next to the base motor pool. The mechanics asked if I had run through a mud puddle before it lost power. When I told them I did, they said change the exhaust pipe. I cut open the replaced pipe, the outer pipe was perfect, but the inner pipe was completely collapsed restricting the exhaust. Boy, was I relieved to only have to replace a section of pipe. This is a case where experience saved the day.
@7:25, just an FYI, most people don’t know that cheapie IR cameras like yours cannot ‘see’ the temp of aluminum, or copper, or stainless steel, especially if they are shiny, but most times even if they aren’t that shiny. Those heat shields at generally aluminum for that very reason, so they reflect the heat BACK into the CAT. Or should I say ‘nice and shiny’? Anyway, you need to have an IR gun/ camera with an emissivity setting to compensate for how reflective the metal is. The metals I listed are have very low emissivity, so they tend to reflect YOUR OWN body temp back, think of them as being mirrors reflecting long wave infrared (heat), so you only see heat from other sources in the room. Most people don’t understand how these things work and they believe the tool. Try a test, paint a black spot, flat black is best, on a piece of aluminum, and check the temp off the paint, and on the paint. It won’t even be close! Good luck!
@ 13 minutes, perhaps some lube on the exposed end of the bolt and between the flanges as well as the head end of the bolt that you were lubing, might have be of assistance to remove the bolt. Advice is free. IRONICALLY, A Mazda CX-30 commercial is running between segments. Hmmm. Have a great day, all!
these 2.3 engines are direct injected as well. They suffer from intake valve carbon issues and the cam driven fuel pump can also have issues. There is also a torque/acceleration dead spot around 2500 rpm on some of these cars with this turbo engine. the cat right off the turbo, if you need to remove it, you will most likely have to remove its heat shields AND disconnect the engine mount and lift the engine to get it out, especially if it is AWD.
Have to determine why the cat got plugged, mostly likely an oil burner so that issues will have to be addressed also or there is no point in just fixing the cat.
I have the 2008 model of this. Fairly peppy car when it's not clogged. I think it's rated for close to 280 horsepower. Terrible on gas though and takes premium fuel.
Repair brick wall, insert compressor, close door, experience quieter noise, be happy. I like the brake clean can falling sound better than the dropped wrench on the intro. Just sayin
Old video but I'm on backlog. You needed to give the front cat a treatment we in Finland call "rautakankikorjaus". You ram a long steel bar thru the cat and empty it out.
Yesterday was first time I ever walked away from the snap on truck without feeling bent over. I got a Snapon Modis Ultra for 295. Its even got 2022.4 update
Those Mazdas with the 2.3 turbo had an injector problem. They liked to clog up especially when it stood for a while. You can try to clean them but easier to just replace them. If you have lean codes you should take a look there and of course spark plugs. Trying to help. Im working for Mazda almost 10 years here in Poland and had a couple of them
REEEE! I just had my eyes worked on so I am very protective of them. I don't think your contacts are safety glasses. A pair of safety glasses from the home center would be a great idea. Get a pair for the Wife Unit also. Loss of an eye from spray or dirt would not be a good thing. Dad mode signing off.
They're not even that expensive and come in different styles. Maybe he's just going to release a line of safety glasses to the masses under the brand "Safety squints".
You can certainly tell when RUclips videos are good. You have to watch several commercials before you ever see the clip and them more as the clip plays.
Because he is an honest and thorough mechanic, he will always have the business. I don't know why people cheat the customer. They win in the short term but lose in the long run because word gets out.
That’s a Ford 2.3L engine in which means most of the vehicle is FoMoCo. I have an 04 Mazda 3 Hatchback with the Ford 2.3L and most of the parts are FoMoCo. My upstream cat from Mazda costs $1000 and $200 to install from a smog shop and the cat said FoMoCo also buy oem O2 sensors which are expensive as well $170.
Surely somebody makes a downpipe and high flow cat for that motor. As long as you gotta go through the trouble of pulling it out, may as well get some extra power. Maybe throw on a JB4 while you’re at it. 😁
I owned one of those cx7's over here in Australia about every 5 to 10 thousand k's the add_ blue pump or what ever used to play up i had a new one sent from Japan took two month's to get . Fixed the problem for about 10 k. Ended up selling it to much of a pain in the arse pity because i liked Mazda's.
I notice, when you're opening the car doors on the lift you're having an issue with keeping the door from hitting the lift. No way to fix that without a 4 post lift. But, you might take some pool noodles and cut and put piece of them on the lift arm sides so, if a door hits it won't hurt a thing. Not sure how you could do it but I'm sure you could figure out how to put some on, and it would keep worries about hitting doors on the lift out of your mind. I think I saw a rubber boot like thing on the lift but I'm sure it's never in the right spot every time. Usually aren't like those side trim pieces on some cars that are never in the right spot when someone beside you opens a door and bangs yours....lol.
I am going to guess by the new coils (prior repair) it was run with a misfire for a while, dumping fuel into the converter and melting it down. Or not, lol. I have seen this happen with the Ford Escape 3.0 engines. Hope we get a follow up on this one.
Traction control/TCS malfunction indicators are perfectly normal when the battery goes dead on the CX-7. Only requires that the truck be driven/shut off and restarted and that clears the fault....yes I own an '07 CX-7 touring edition AWD with 98000 miles on the clock. Disappointed that my rear wheel bearings failed at 70,000 miles, the drivers side front bearing is now bad and gonna replace both along with the CV half shafts (one is clicking) along with an A/C leak, noisy serpentine belt idler pulley (gonna replace it along with the tensioner) and do a full brake job while everything's apart......fun to drive but crappy to maintain.
My co-worker bought a CX-7, nothing but dealer/warranty issues and conflicts. He had 2 puit premium fuel in it, dealer claimed he fried the engine by putting in regular. Dealer claimed that it neaded lead in the fuel, he even added octane booster 2 the premium at the "dealer's" instruction! It was running lean, burnt the valves!
i always look forward to new vid. guess i am addicted. and i always watch to end. good work, Ray. spot on diagnoses & such entertaining talk. reminded me of par-blocked muffler i experienced yrs ago while heading to snow. idled fine, lost power on hills & made strange sound at muffler. country garage diagnosed immediately - but was last thing i expected.
Been watching your video and do not expect you will handling cx7 turbo (my family car). Good to see some or more action on this car. This is a beatiful suv but bad design on the engine and turbo. Replacing parts will take ages (if you know what i mean). I may give you some tips on replacing the PCV valve (which nearly kill us when the car goes lean on interstate with max speed 45 mph) and top up with premium gasoline.
@@K.Kelly87 As I'm sure you already know, removing an O2 sensor will force the car to run in open loop. How do you know if the cat is really the issue or another problem that's covered up by a forced open loop condition? The PCM looses its ability to properly set fuel trims. Also, I'm not convinced the hole for the O2 sensor is large enough to overcome a clogged cat.
Given most situations on a vehicle, probably having to remove anything in the exhaust system would be my last ditch effort or enough to make me think twice if I want the headache. Some bright engineers need to redesign them so they don't meld together and require torches, extreme heat and dealing with broken studs and such. At least you have a lift. I've only done them on the floor, being a home mechanic.
“Lack of power” usually means there is a boost leak It could also mean the low pressure gas line is clogged (gas tank mesh), or the HPFP is failing on the high pressure side It could also mean the PVC valve has failed (inside of the intake hoses where the ventilation circuit connects would be filled with oil condensation) (this is where boost goes, to the crankcase, means there should be oil leaks everywhere) Could be the TCM/transmission making a logic error and the ECU/PCM returns it with low power on the engine Sludge blocking intake valves (aka no OCC)? Broken intake or exhaust valves?? And least probable would be a failing CC My 2007 AWD CX-7 (195,000 km / 122,000 miles) has never going thru something like that, but as a project I dyno tuned it to 17 psi (13 oem), bigger TMIC and lower restriction air filter (everything must count on the dyno), plus other small stuff (bov) to increase from 244 to 310 bhp (the transmission couldn’t handle more I think). Small project, I needed to test prior to engage on my 2013 MS3 (410 bhp stage 3+, stock K04 22 psi)... I sold the Speed, kept the CX-7 because it’s awesome
Ray you can also confirm a clogged cat if the exhaust is hot and sticky/ moist. When my daily started losing power I just went behind the car and felt the exhaust and was like yup clogged cat even confirmed it more by unmounting the cat from the manifold and stuck a scope down and saw it clogged to hell lol.
Love B'LASTER PB. I just have the luxury of soaking exhaust studs the night before and the morning of the day I work on them. I'm guessing at some point you'll have to rename your business "Ray's Auto and Exhaust PITA Clinic".
Did you ever remove the catalytic converter to see if it is clogged?....I hope we get to see the outcome....and prove the diagnosis! Hope I did not miss this video.
"i don't like to say gas pedal; it's the accelerator" but Ray, the brake pedal is an accelerator too. and so is the steering wheel. they all cause a change in velocity...
I am happy to see that you're busy enough to support the decision to open your own shop. Grats again to you and the family for reaping the rewards of the hard work and risk taken!
mechanics will always have work doesn't matter how many are in a city.
Ray, I have found that when taking nuts off studs on exhaust manifolds and such, first. run a thread chaser over the exposed threads of the stud to get at least some of the rust and corrosion off, so you don't have to drag the nut across that too. It can make a big difference, at least it has for me many times.
Minimize the risk of snapping the studs/bolts that are rusted. They get awfully hot when removing else due to friction.
A wire brush works is fine
Excellent suggestion
@Mike Hudson your going to get Ray fired with PB blaster as your chosen lubricant!!🤣🤣 can there be much of a difference between all these products?
There’s a video on RUclips about said lubricants. Personally always been a Kroil user!
Gotta say I really like this format with the cold intro then into the job rather than a teaser cold open.
I hope you get to repair this vehicle. I want to see what happens!
We had a Datsun (by Nissan) 510 back in... 1989-1990? It was like an '79-'80 maybe? Got a clogged cat. We didn't know much then. It would idle, but if you wanted to go, you had to have super high RPMs. My husband, boyfriend at the time, parked it blocking his dad's garage. His dad moved it to get the mower out, parked it, and shut it off, in 1st gear, and walked away. Next thing he knew, it was on fire, and hopping towards the house. He had a fire extinguisher, and used it up, with out effecting the fire. So he shoved it under the front tire to stop the car from setting the house on fire. The clogged cat caused the whole thing. The fire melted the ignition wires in the steering column together, so the starter engaged....
That was a CLOSE CALL!!! We never made the mistake of ignoring a loss of power again.
Some folks here have started grass fires with normal performing cats by pulling off the road and parking over tall grass.
Those converters sure get hot.
My dad always said that the right tools for the job is the job half done. And knowing where your tools are is the other half. Best regards from Denmark
Probably the absolutely best argument for BEV and against ICE: exhaust work.
Ray, so much respect too you. Been here since day one. But you still in your older experience have not realized what an air impact hammer does to stuck exhaust nuts. Always try air tools with hammers before weak electric 3\8 ratchets. Air tools win every time buddy
First Mazda subject vehicle I have seen on any auto channel in quite awhile. I've had 2 Mazdas. One new and one used, the unsung heroes.
Welcome to you, and I'm always glad to see you are here as always.
Most shops depend on customers finding them not yours you have a closed 6-foot high gate and fence. I am glad it works for your business. Great videos.
LOL Satellites linking up in space. Even sound effects HAHA! That's why I love this channel. Ray's personality makes it fun.
Keep up the good work ray lots of hates comments today
We love Ray, it’s clear to say that even the haters love Ray if they put time and energy into expressing hate haha.
I briefly had a Mazda GLC Station Wagon and the pipe off the manifold had to be replaced and it was a dealer only part. The local dealership was also Porsche/Audi; I ordered it from them and when it came in I didn't bring the original in with me, and of course it was the wrong one. When I came back, there was a guy who had picked up his new Porsche and it didn't have the floor mats, he told him they'd overnight them. When I got up to the counter, of course they couldn't overnight my part and ended up having to drive it with no exhaust for a week and a half. I was really pissed.This brougt back memories of that.
I see that red Monte Carlo. I hope that's one of your customers. I'd love to see what you'll need with that. I miss my old Monte Carlo.
We had to fight collapsing interior exhaust walls in Ford LTD’s. I just got to where I would drop the exhaust lead pipes from the manifolds and take them on the interstate and find out real quick. Ford only wanted you to replace a piece at a time but after getting a warranty bill for the same labor over and over they got smart and replaced the whole exhaust. Back then there was no stainless steel exhausts yet.
Ah, I was getting a little worried, not getting a notification, because Ray’s show is my meditation in the morning before dealing with the day. I needs my peace of mind 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Rightttt. I was sitting there drinking my coffee waiting. And nothinggg. AHHHH
My amateur hyporhesis: Really good techs like Ray can salvage auction cars; repair them: sell to make a huge profit.
Most redundant words on the planet are when Ray says "because this, is going to be a very good video" They are always very good videos. Top Man Ray
"These ones"
😂😂😂
Most redundant (🇺🇸) saying is “I’m gonna go ahead…”
Why do you guys have to : go ahead and “remove the bold” , why can you just remove it? 😝
I’m gonna go ahead and say bye
bye…😁
@10:30... Project Farm settled the penetrating oil debate. Gibbs is the best, followed by Liquid Wrench then Seafoam. Also, pre-soaking fasteners and letting them sit for 24 hours makes a huge difference in breakaway torque.
shut up
Very good channel! However, seeing the test condensed like you did is good for me! I'll have to admit, my attention is challenged with his redundant test shots. Thanks for the Clift Notes!
I'm surprised they left out Aerokroil made by Kano!
@@paulconetta2264 He did. There are several test videos. The final video is the best from each of 3 videos. Aerokroil didn't make the cut.
@@aaronbritt2025 I'm surprised that didn't make the cut! That's the only product company I worked for ever bought. Kano must have changed the recipe.
dont know if there is new help, but the new side was hid, but there seem to be more light where the new door is to go....and there was lots of noise comming from over there.....good job at hiding the evidence....lol stay tune folks...same Ray time and same Ray channel.....some will get the pun and some will not......lol
Haven't watched all the video yet but my go to for diagnosing a clogged cat was popping an O2 sensor out. That allows some flow to be restored without huge workloads usually
5:16 ECU RESET
Every time you disconnect the battery the ECU recorded data is erased... a trick usually done when changing BTU/Octane rating on the fuel being added (for racing on the 2.3L DISI)
On the CX-7 this result on the Traction Control and AWD/Traction lights turning on... something which will be fixed by turning the steering from extreme left turn position to the extreme right one.
Also the automatic windows get disabled and one must manually lower them and then rise them using the button with the automatic pressing mode (just a little)
Radio presets will be gone 😅
Love the warren zeiders playing in the background
1:37 from this camera angle I thought you were going to collide.
Ray! When learning basic electronic troubleshooting one first step (after visual inspection &.voltage/ground) was 'half-split.' I.E. look for signal HALF WAY between start and end.
Well good morning Ray I myself have a 2009 Mazda CX7 turbo and it runs great thank God
I live in Northeastern Ohio and working on my 2007 F150 suck because all the rust on everything from all the years of salt. I love this truck because it only has 86,000 miles but is rusting pretty bad
Ray, why don't you get one of those in cylinder pressure transducers from Ivan? That would have answered the catalytic converter question in 10 minutes!
Ouch. I have the same (ish) motor in my Mazda, and those cats are not cheap because they're built into the turbo down pipe. You have to replace the whole thing.
This happened to my dad's 1973 Chevy Caprice back in the day. My dad thought the transmission was going out, and so did the guy at the transmission shop . After getting the TH350 automatic transmission rebuilt the car had the same problem. It would kick down to the passing gear but not upshift until you got out of the throttle without much acceleration. The transmission shop made some money off my dad. He took it to another shop and explained what the car was doing and the mechanic told my dad to rev the engine while he put his hand over the tail pipe. He told my dad this things not breathing right. My dad took it down to the muffler shop and had his buddy put dual glass packs on it. We didn't know that a 5000 pound battle cruiser could do a smokey burnout. Lol I found out later that it had a small block 400 in it when I checked the numbers on the block. No wonder
I had the issue on my early 70 big chevy wagon. They had factory installed double wall exhaust pipes, if you ran through water when the exhaust was hot the outer pipe would contract just enough to collapse the inner pipe, but the outer pipe would remain round. I was lucky enough to work next to the base motor pool. The mechanics asked if I had run through a mud puddle before it lost power. When I told them I did, they said change the exhaust pipe. I cut open the replaced pipe, the outer pipe was perfect, but the inner pipe was completely collapsed restricting the exhaust. Boy, was I relieved to only have to replace a section of pipe. This is a case where experience saved the day.
@7:25, just an FYI, most people don’t know that cheapie IR cameras like yours cannot ‘see’ the temp of aluminum, or copper, or stainless steel, especially if they are shiny, but most times even if they aren’t that shiny. Those heat shields at generally aluminum for that very reason, so they reflect the heat BACK into the CAT. Or should I say ‘nice and shiny’? Anyway, you need to have an IR gun/ camera with an emissivity setting to compensate for how reflective the metal is. The metals I listed are have very low emissivity, so they tend to reflect YOUR OWN body temp back, think of them as being mirrors reflecting long wave infrared (heat), so you only see heat from other sources in the room. Most people don’t understand how these things work and they believe the tool. Try a test, paint a black spot, flat black is best, on a piece of aluminum, and check the temp off the paint, and on the paint. It won’t even be close! Good luck!
16:04 like the choice of tunes Ray
@ 13 minutes, perhaps some lube on the exposed end of the bolt and between the flanges as well as the head end of the bolt that you were lubing, might have be of assistance to remove the bolt. Advice is free. IRONICALLY, A Mazda CX-30 commercial is running between segments. Hmmm. Have a great day, all!
Literally just got done playing light fall on D2 and i thought your thumbnail was the witness
i must say, even though Ray was many times right in the past videos, i didnt believed him first when he measured the temperature until the cloth test.
these 2.3 engines are direct injected as well. They suffer from intake valve carbon issues and the cam driven fuel pump can also have issues. There is also a torque/acceleration dead spot around 2500 rpm on some of these cars with this turbo engine. the cat right off the turbo, if you need to remove it, you will most likely have to remove its heat shields AND disconnect the engine mount and lift the engine to get it out, especially if it is AWD.
It's a GO peddle, then STOP peddle, and sometimes a POWER ENGAGE/DISENGAGE peddle.
Have to determine why the cat got plugged, mostly likely an oil burner so that issues will have to be addressed also or there is no point in just fixing the cat.
Approaching half a million Subbies, congratulations Ray from England UK..
I have the 2008 model of this. Fairly peppy car when it's not clogged. I think it's rated for close to 280 horsepower. Terrible on gas though and takes premium fuel.
Repair brick wall, insert compressor, close door, experience quieter noise, be happy. I like the brake clean can falling sound better than the dropped wrench on the intro. Just sayin
I have 2007 CX7.
Cannot wait till next .
That’s a wideband o2 sensor. It doesn’t switch like a traditional o2 sensor. If you can see the scale is in milliamps not voltatge.
Old video but I'm on backlog. You needed to give the front cat a treatment we in Finland call "rautakankikorjaus". You ram a long steel bar thru the cat and empty it out.
KROIL. It's been the king for 60 years.
Yesterday was first time I ever walked away from the snap on truck without feeling bent over. I got a Snapon Modis Ultra for 295. Its even got 2022.4 update
Those Mazdas with the 2.3 turbo had an injector problem. They liked to clog up especially when it stood for a while. You can try to clean them but easier to just replace them. If you have lean codes you should take a look there and of course spark plugs. Trying to help. Im working for Mazda almost 10 years here in Poland and had a couple of them
Working on vehicles in Canada. Every bolt you deal with is like a stuck exhaust bolt.
Fix all the hoses under the hood first, that should fix the lean code, then the Cat replacement.
PB blaster was my favorite while the thrift store had it for $2, then came Liquid Wrench for $1. Great video, Ray.
Yes that exhaust hanger tool is a great invention
Use the Kroil in the orange can you showed on the door hinge… it’s better than all that other stuff
REEEE! I just had my eyes worked on so I am very protective of them. I don't think your contacts are safety glasses. A pair of safety glasses from the home center would be a great idea. Get a pair for the Wife Unit also. Loss of an eye from spray or dirt would not be a good thing. Dad mode signing off.
They're not even that expensive and come in different styles. Maybe he's just going to release a line of safety glasses to the masses under the brand "Safety squints".
The lack of corrosion under old cars in your neck of the woods is always a surprise.
You can certainly tell when RUclips videos are good. You have to watch several commercials before you ever see the clip and them more as the clip plays.
Sry…the AI is all over the place right now 😬
Because he is an honest and thorough mechanic, he will always have the business. I don't know why people cheat the customer. They win in the short term but lose in the long run because word gets out.
Love that "Gravity!!"
Hasn't it gotten old for you to have to manually open and close that gate every time that you go through it? Love watching your videos.
That's going to be a costly repair
You're busy enough to have hired help. Awesome!
Always check to see if there is a banana in the tailpipe first! :)
That catalytic converter isn’t going to be cheap either. Hopefully, Mazda can get one in a reasonable amount of time.
For the OEM I would search a used one at eBay...
... because installing an 80 mm Corksport one is not a good idea on an automatic vehicle 😅
Safety glasses ! Like the hanger tool.
That’s a Ford 2.3L engine in which means most of the vehicle is FoMoCo. I have an 04 Mazda 3 Hatchback with the Ford 2.3L and most of the parts are FoMoCo. My upstream cat from Mazda costs $1000 and $200 to install from a smog shop and the cat said FoMoCo also buy oem O2 sensors which are expensive as well $170.
Surely somebody makes a downpipe and high flow cat for that motor. As long as you gotta go through the trouble of pulling it out, may as well get some extra power.
Maybe throw on a JB4 while you’re at it. 😁
A sausage of carpet or carpet underlay on lift columns to protect opening doors on your so wide USA veicles ,a soft tap rather then a scratch or chip.
I owned one of those cx7's over here in Australia about every 5 to 10 thousand k's the add_ blue pump or what ever used to play up i had a new one sent from Japan took two month's to get . Fixed the problem for about 10 k. Ended up selling it to much of a pain in the arse pity because i liked Mazda's.
1:40 Cool sign on the wall!
I notice, when you're opening the car doors on the lift you're having an issue with keeping the door from hitting the lift. No way to fix that without a 4 post lift. But, you might take some pool noodles and cut and put piece of them on the lift arm sides so, if a door hits it won't hurt a thing. Not sure how you could do it but I'm sure you could figure out how to put some on, and it would keep worries about hitting doors on the lift out of your mind. I think I saw a rubber boot like thing on the lift but I'm sure it's never in the right spot every time. Usually aren't like those side trim pieces on some cars that are never in the right spot when someone beside you opens a door and bangs yours....lol.
PB Blaster for the win!
Apparently, a 5-50 mix of acetone and ATF is the proven best. Just came across an old machinist article where it beat all commercial products.
I am going to guess by the new coils (prior repair) it was run with a misfire for a while, dumping fuel into the converter and melting it down. Or not, lol. I have seen this happen with the Ford Escape 3.0 engines. Hope we get a follow up on this one.
Good point. Sometimes check engine can be lit for weeks or months before someone checks the engine.
Traction control/TCS malfunction indicators are perfectly normal when the battery goes dead on the CX-7. Only requires that the truck be driven/shut off and restarted and that clears the fault....yes I own an '07 CX-7 touring edition AWD with 98000 miles on the clock. Disappointed that my rear wheel bearings failed at 70,000 miles, the drivers side front bearing is now bad and gonna replace both along with the CV half shafts (one is clicking) along with an A/C leak, noisy serpentine belt idler pulley (gonna replace it along with the tensioner) and do a full brake job while everything's apart......fun to drive but crappy to maintain.
It amazes me that no one has invented a power
ratcheting box wrench. Lord knows we need one.
!
Could you run a bore scope up to the front cat?
My co-worker bought a CX-7, nothing but dealer/warranty issues and conflicts. He had 2 puit premium fuel in it, dealer claimed he fried the engine by putting in regular. Dealer claimed that it neaded lead in the fuel, he even added octane booster 2 the premium at the "dealer's" instruction! It was running lean, burnt the valves!
new oxy acetenyl .get some check valves for your lines can keep the rig from blowing up
I enjoyed this video. Have yourself a great day, Ray.
"BG" not a sponsor. Queue the 'BG" hat scene. Thanks for the share. 😁
I get free hats 🤷♂️
i always look forward to new vid. guess i am addicted. and i always watch to end. good work, Ray. spot on diagnoses & such entertaining talk. reminded me of par-blocked muffler i experienced yrs ago while heading to snow. idled fine, lost power on hills & made strange sound at muffler. country garage diagnosed immediately - but was last thing i expected.
Been watching your video and do not expect you will handling cx7 turbo (my family car). Good to see some or more action on this car. This is a beatiful suv but bad design on the engine and turbo. Replacing parts will take ages (if you know what i mean). I may give you some tips on replacing the PCV valve (which nearly kill us when the car goes lean on interstate with max speed 45 mph) and top up with premium gasoline.
Take the upstream o2 sensor out and drive it to see if your power comes back .
I was going to suggest this but mention putting a good DPF cleaner in the hole at the same time rather than buy a new DPF.
Why would power come back by removing the O2 sensor?
@@AT-wl9yq The exhaust flows out of the hole, bypassing the cat.
@@K.Kelly87 As I'm sure you already know, removing an O2 sensor will force the car to run in open loop. How do you know if the cat is really the issue or another problem that's covered up by a forced open loop condition? The PCM looses its ability to properly set fuel trims. Also, I'm not convinced the hole for the O2 sensor is large enough to overcome a clogged cat.
ran into a similar issue only turned out to be a slug of ice formed in tailpipe not that you would run into that in FL but in the north it does happen
Given most situations on a vehicle, probably having to remove anything in the exhaust system would be my last ditch effort or enough to make me think twice if I want the headache.
Some bright engineers need to redesign them so they don't meld together and require torches, extreme heat and dealing with broken studs and such.
At least you have a lift. I've only done them on the floor, being a home mechanic.
If it has a clogged cat, that’s most likely the reason for its lean running. If the exhaust can’t get out the new air can’t get in.
good troubleshooting skills very good
“Lack of power” usually means there is a boost leak
It could also mean the low pressure gas line is clogged (gas tank mesh), or the HPFP is failing on the high pressure side
It could also mean the PVC valve has failed (inside of the intake hoses where the ventilation circuit connects would be filled with oil condensation) (this is where boost goes, to the crankcase, means there should be oil leaks everywhere)
Could be the TCM/transmission making a logic error and the ECU/PCM returns it with low power on the engine
Sludge blocking intake valves (aka no OCC)? Broken intake or exhaust valves??
And least probable would be a failing CC
My 2007 AWD CX-7 (195,000 km / 122,000 miles) has never going thru something like that, but as a project I dyno tuned it to 17 psi (13 oem), bigger TMIC and lower restriction air filter (everything must count on the dyno), plus other small stuff (bov) to increase from 244 to 310 bhp (the transmission couldn’t handle more I think).
Small project, I needed to test prior to engage on my 2013 MS3 (410 bhp stage 3+, stock K04 22 psi)... I sold the Speed, kept the CX-7 because it’s awesome
I found out that PB blaster works better than the other lubricants
It looks like your Shop is hoppin'. Great to see!
16:30 man turns mazda into straight piped cummins 😂
OOoof, another exhaust job, sorry Ray! Hang in there, you'll get there!
Love your videos. Miss the long videos. Thank you for all the great content.
Ray you can also confirm a clogged cat if the exhaust is hot and sticky/ moist. When my daily started losing power I just went behind the car and felt the exhaust and was like yup clogged cat even confirmed it more by unmounting the cat from the manifold and stuck a scope down and saw it clogged to hell lol.
Love B'LASTER PB. I just have the luxury of soaking exhaust studs the night before and the morning of the day I work on them. I'm guessing at some point you'll have to rename your business "Ray's Auto and Exhaust PITA Clinic".
We need a update on the remodel of the garage
I don’t understand all these automatics anymore if you’re going to have turbine powered you need a standard so you can hear those cool sounds😮
Very interesting Ray !
TORCH !! I used to yell that in the shop , its like saying MEDIC !!!
Did you ever remove the catalytic converter to see if it is clogged?....I hope we get to see the outcome....and prove the diagnosis! Hope I did not miss this video.
"i don't like to say gas pedal; it's the accelerator"
but Ray, the brake pedal is an accelerator too. and so is the steering wheel. they all cause a change in velocity...
So very true!!