It was funny when he did it. Absolutely no comment from Ray. I mean everytime something drops it is " gravity." He missed the opportunity to say "Torque energy!" which would make pedants heads explode. :D
Hey Ray. In my honest opinion, I always clean the valve covers when I have them off. The one time I didn't do it, the customer came back and stated that the oil leak was not fixed because there was oil residue still on the valve cover. So from then on, I took an extra few minutes and cleaned them in the parts washer. Just a thought. Makes them look nice and shiny.
Agree, Always clean that stuff up! It can help you spot a new leak. Besides, in my opinion it's professional, I want the customer, and or the next mechanic to see this guy does quality work and pays attention to detail. I think it's worth the extra time.
Jesus some customers are far king stupid id 10 ts. Just like I would really, *really* like Ray as my car guy, I think Ray might like me as a customer because I wouldn't pull any💩like that on such a consummate professional. Ken, you sound like _a Ray_ so I hope you make a crap load of money in your profession due to the care you take of your _charges_ for your customers. 👍
@@geemee3364 no one can see valve cover, due to plastic mounted engine cover. And he did end up spraying engine bay down afterwards.. But agreed, my ocd demands a 3min clean and general tools cleaned an on their apropiate spot every work ending day. But its Rays garage and standards. As long judgement, and work done is up to standards, then its jus5 a matter of opinion..
I've been working on engines for over 40 years and I love seeing goofs, gotchas and small things like losing part of your glove under the bolt head. I still learn things from you for sure, keep up the great work.
I'm pretty sure you installed the spark plug tune seals upside down in the valve covers Rounded side Goes tords the top of the valve covers not facing the head @Rainman Ray's Repairs
It is a much better repair to zip tie the connector than splice wires. The problem with splicing wire is simple: 1 If it's a sensor wire, you need to do an exceptional job, because the associated module is looking for specific voltages. 2 If it's a power wire, most people don't understand that one piece of heatshrink may not offer enough insulating resistance. 3 If your new connector isn't at the same length as the old, the wire might be too short and the connector won't reach, or the wire will be too long and look like a mess of s***. 4 Most splices need to happen in very tight places, it's a pain in the a**. 5 If you want a competent, OEM looking repair, you need to replace the split loom for that section of wire. Long story short, the zip tie works great and solves a problem caused by EVERY manufacturer.
The easiest way would be to order the connector bodies and de-pinning the broken connector, and installing the new connector body. Problem is I don’t know how easy it is to find those instock locally.
The cable tie fix works and is practical in application . I have a similar Toyota with a 5VZ-FE, uses the same connectors as the 3.3L 3MZ-FE in this video, same problem with the tabs breaking from heat fatigue. My engine now has over 350k kms on it and spends plenty of time off road, 4wd and washboard roads with no missfires or coil issues. If the zip tie repair holds up to that it wont fail on a daily driver!
We don't mind watching you change oil Ray. We enjoy watching everything you do, especially when you work your magic in diags and service. You're the best, Bro!
@@defresurrection I would say that "we" are the majority of viewers of Ray's channel here on RUclips. I hope that my law of averages has not offended you.
...yeah 😛 forgetting the coil connections...I was working on my laptop replacing the cooling fan, complete tear down to get to it...only after "reconstruction" did I realize I had neglected to reattach the connector to the replaced fan...another hour & half, along with many unrepeatable words, later did I learn a very hard and unpleasant lesson...kinda like the feeling you get after "reconstruction" and parts are left over ...😎
i wonder how many were triggered by the tabs breaking lol.. its a fact of life with old plastic. love your videos ray. Im a mechanic from the Northeast working on rusty rotted cars lol so that highlander isnt terribible at all. i see eric o level cars in NH
Owned one of those. Found it at a dealer on the internet. Flew to Sarasota to buy it. Great vehicle. It’s actually one of a few, over the years, that I miss.
That zip tie trick seems to work well with those broken coil connector plugs. I don't think anyone would bust you for not replacing them. It probably would be a good idea to save those old rear coils in case any of the old front ones fail .....
@@joetaylor486 I'm thinking Toyota could put the clip (point of failure) on the coil side vs. the plug side, so when the coils get replaced, the clip is new along with the new coils. Avoids putting Ray and other fine mechanics into moral dilemna mode... :)
Since first seeing Ray use the tie strap trick he learned, I have used it, but found a way to just slip it in without having to actually lock the strap.
Optional up sale to offer to the customer at the beginning of the job. "This is likely to happen...which option. Would you like to be used. This option cost $1 this one costs $30 and this option costs $300
Two comments Ray, (1) It really impressed the HELL out of me that you didn't even flinch when you hit the battery terminal and made sparks with the torque wrench. (2) I was hoping to see how you repaired that broken vacuum line connector. I've had that happen to me and had to replace the entire unit, not knowing how to fix it.
I love the use of the honda bond sealant on a toyota. I work at a honda dealership and its so easy to work with. I use it on all of my personal vehicles and have never had an issue with them leaking prematurely
As I disassembled, I would write things down in a numbered list and follow it from the bottom, beyond 3 or 4 things when my mind is busy, I cannot reliably recall. Going to photos or manuals is usually when you feel something is wrong or have spare parts laying around, it is usually too late for the proper sequence or totally forgotten.
We had a 2006 Toyota Sienna with that same engine. I did plugs a couple of times and timing belt and water pump twice as well. The front bank of those connectors broke on me too. In my opinion, YOU ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE for those and I think your fix was appropriate. I used zip ties as well but did it a little different. I think your way is better. I realize this video is a year old, but if you're ever feeling nostalgic and are browsing the comments....
I slip a length of 1/4" fuel line over the tip of the spark plug and slide the plug into the hole and get it started. Easy peasy - no worries about dropping the plug into the hole.
with all the parts supply issues, there is no reason to replace something that has not failed. as long as the fix does it’s job you are all set. you should not have to pay for the engineers bad design, using an inferior polymer for the locking mechanism.great video, take care and be safe out there!
Toyota is great about making connectors available and it takes very little time to unpin the wires (never solder them). I try to always go this way especially when it is in a visible /easily accessed location. Whenever I run into zip tied connectors my first thought is always negative about who was in there last.
Have an '07 Highlander just like that one, did plugs a couple years ago, not a fun job when you consider all you have to do to get to the back three cylinders. I broke a coil clip too and zip tied it.
That was a very good video. You are showing everyone that even though mechanics have to have a good memory of where all the parts and bolts go, sometimes we miss some steps we went threw on reassembly. At least the engine was happy you were working onit, because we saw a little fireworks display. It's not only connectors that get brittle with age other parts and hoses do to. If they can be repaired with out replacing, it will save the customer money. But it is what it is and things get brttle and break.
At 22:16 was that battery clickage on the torque wrench, now it needs recalibrated. Gr8 job on valve cover gaskets especially the backside, never enough room, and good catch on the injector leads.
Replacing the rear coils was a good call. All the coils on this vehicle was stressed with the size gap on the plugs, so failure can be highly likely. As for the 3 old ones since they all work the customer has spares.
Had the frame replaced on a 3 y/o Silverado due to being rear ended. Hate to think how many broken connectors I have now. I do see more electrical tape in the engine compartment.
Ok , your opinion - way back in service mechanical school we had a Chief Petty Officer as an instructor who felt that if you checked your torque on fasteners more than once , you were double torquing the nut/bolt . I always felt the the torque wrench could not add but only click/ snap at the setting so only the original torque setting was applied once .
Finding a tech that treats others cars like they would there own if not better is rare if I lived in your area I wouldn’t take my autos anywhere else keep killing my friend glad to see your shop is growing!!!
Great video! When I worked in a shop, BG and Zep were some of the best products you could use. Both at that time were not available to the consumer. The connectors were just a casualty of the job! Awesome job, thanks!
not gonna lie, i would really really like to get my Car to Ray´s garage to get my repairs, not only would i get an Expert working on my Car but i would also have it really well documentated on Video to watch it afterwards. Great Job Ray
Truly an untapped market. I bet most of us would gladly pay %20 more to be absolutely certain the job is done right, with proof. Hell, 30%. And with more mechanics doing it, I bet improvements in the video methods also, like maybe permanent camera mount points around bay, etc.
@@ckmoore101 have you caught South Main Auto with Eric O., he said that he does not want the responsibility of out of towners making the hours long trip to get work done and then have something else fail on trip back. I can see his reasoning and don't blame him one bit. there is enough locals to keep them busy
It's worth it if you live on the Peninsula Gulf Coast or will be there on an extended trip to say the Freedom Factory, fishing charters, or the dreaded Disney swamp.
Video marker 28:42 I do believe the vehicle is destined for a short in the future Down in the cig plug looks like debris I had a penny fall into mine and it shorted the plug and fuse and everything that was on that fuse electrical line This was a very quick notice but can see something in the electrical plug at video marker
I was doing an oil cooler on a 3.6 L pentastar engine, I had the lower intake installed and then I noticed that I had forgotten the shop towels inside of the intake to stop crud from entering the engine. Thank God I seen them before I put the upper intake on or it wouldn't have been nice
The ziptie method seems to be pretty widespread and there doesn't seem to be a downside to it as long as you don't use super cheap ones that will melt and they don't seem to be difficult to remove for future service. I would say the rule of "no harm no foul" applies
When using a wobble socket and it flops around loosely slip an o ring slightly smaller than the joint or a rubber band at joint to keep from flopping from side to side. You will still have flex of the joint. It will be a little bit tighter
BG EPR is awesome. Pour in, drive for 20 minutes on the highway, drain and put fresh oil. Really helps engines that has some oil use or even cleaning a good engine every 20K miles
My take on the coil connector tabs breaking is that you take all due care, but plastic becomes brittle over time, especially when exposed to heat and petrochemical vapours and liquids. So, have a disclaimer about old, brittle and/or distressed plastic parts can break and people need to accept that there is that modicum of risk. The fact that you take steps to restore the *functionality* (if not the actual construction) of said plastic pieces helps cover your arse in these situations too. I suspect that the reason for the front-side coil connectors being more brittle than their back-side brethren is actually due to the engine cover trapping heat, oil and petrol fumes thus exposing the plastic to a more intense environment.
Dear Ray. The "Broken Connector Issue" is TOTALLY THE FAULT OF THE MANUFACTURER. There should be a specific law, regarding connectors' quality and lasting durability. We need another Ralph Nader to stop the manufacturers from building LOW Quality items that involve vehicle performance. Clearly, Ignition matters, for safe operation. The connectors are low quality. Not your fault. You have RESTORED the tab to new-like performance. YOU DID GREAT WORK. WISH you could make a close up video, showing how the zip-ties are correctly used. It looks like magic to my view......hope you can make a video some day......Thanks in advance.
Last person touching it owns it..... But that doesn't mean you have to completely redo it. It means that you make it work. Zip tie forward ! I used to believe that motor referred to electric motors only.... But recently I checked online and found the following definition; Motor is a machine that converts energy into motion. So that would appear to include electric motors and internal combustion engines.
I think you should put some kind of disclaimer in the shop about the situation with brittle connectors and what your policy is. Let customers know that you will happy to replace these connectors on older cars but that there will be an additional charge. Maybe state that this is applicable to vehicles over a certain age.
As long as you use high quality zip ties that don't melt, it's not an issue. I might suggest you use a colored tie to help the next guy that has to remove them. The black ties, once covered with dirt and grim will be invisible.
From the looks of the inside of engine I’d say the owner has been using Quaker State oil. Best idea is to use any oil that will keep your engine clean and most do. In our shops we stoped using Quaker in the 70s because of this problem. Great video Ray 👍
For a few keyboard mechanics, my 2006 Highlander has been without coil connector clips for 10 years without them ever coming loose. If OCD has a grip on you, new connectors can be installed by removing each terminal one by one and reinserting it in the new connector housing. It won't accomplish anything, but you will feel so much better after spending a hundred bucks and 8 hours labor, In five years you can do it all again!
Yes, you can buy & splice-in the replacement connectors with the 4 pigtails each, OR if the metal connections are serviceable, you can just swap over only the plastic part of the connectors. It's a bit fiddly, but so is soldering 24 wires. The zip-tie trick is probably OK, but for my daughter's car, I changed the plastic parts. BTW, I love your work.
I use a heat gun on them before trying to get them off and it does work as they do get very brittle but for replacing them i would be happy as long as they stay on ,thanks for the video
5:08 that hose on the right was so stiff and I wasn't careful,.. it broke the nipple off the little plastic box on that emissions dodad. $124 to replace the whole thing. I think I could have just gotten that box, but I'd have to pull each hose and since it sits right on the engine, figured I'd break the other one as well. New one came with all new hoses including that one that caused me the trouble in the first place.
Well since you told us many times and probably the customer as well. We all knew the tabs would break. The pigtail itself is still serviceable, zip ties/silicone are good enough for me. I use zipties all the time.
I noticed you don't do the courtesy battery terminal cleans since you left the other shop (at least I haven't seen them in your videos). Haaa, you didn't mention your bobo at 22:15.
Nice part two video. And only lower meniscus fluids (like oil) stick to the sides of the container they are in, upper meniscus fluids, like water beads up and has much greater surface tension and does not stick to the side of containers
I have the same engine in an '06 Solara. It has the same heat related problems. My coil connector latches snapped off. I just secured them with wire. Also, many of the small tubes under and not under the decorative cover became hard, brittle and cracked. If it's a liability issue, you should write it into your service agreement and verbally state that you will not be responsible for plastic and rubber parts that have become brittle from age and heat. If you are so inclined, state that you will do some reasonable repair to secure them but not replace them. It is best if the customer is informed of these things. Right? you didn't cause them to become brittle.
I did the same job last year and it was a pain to get to the rear valve cover off. I came across the same thing with the coil connectors breaking. Good thinking with the zip ties, very clean look.
The front white faces of the connectors are clipped on over a tab on the connector body. You pry that tab up (also being brittle, mine just broke there too, so maybe just break the white piece off with a pair of grips). Once removed, that exposes holes below the connector sockets that allow you to insert a pin, which unlocks each metal terminal from the main body. You can then (carefully) pull each wire out the back of the connector body. It's probably possible to make a tool with four properly spaced stout pins to unlock and pull the four terminals all at once. But only if you had a repeated need for such a tool. The only slight trick is keeping the four wires in the correct order when reinserting them back through the seals on the new connector body, so only do one connector at a time. They lay fairly flat, so I run a few loops of tape over them to keep them in order; just remember which side is Up. I think the new ones have the faces already installed as there is no need to remove them when reinserting the uncut, un-soldered, original factory wire terminals. Repeat as necessary. Admittedly, the back three on a V6 will still be a fiddly job.
Love the videos Ray, i also have a Toyota Kluger 2006 (japanese version) im from South America btw. Question: is it ok to spray water to the engine just like that ?
Hello Ray , so you changed both head gaskets on the 3.3 that you had to make it in 2 parts , I was just wondering why you didn't clean the head covers when you had them off ? Now the engine looks the same as when you didn't do anything but pop the hood ! You are now a business owner you seem to be cutting some corners and calling it good .
A few years ago I brought my MV Agusta F4 to the shop for some service. The mechanic broke the connector off of a couple fuel injectors. If you know much about MV Agusta's the engine was designed by Ferrari and parts aren't cheap. New fuel injectors were around $400 each. My mechanic offered to replace the injectors on his dime but I would not let him. It was a 2002 model motorcycle and the plastic was just old and brittle. I had him do all 4 injectors as the non broken ones were likely going to break off in someone's hand in the future. There's a huge trade off that most owners don't understand when getting their vehicles serviced. Older vehicles are a liability to people who repair them due to situations just like this. A lot of shops refuse to work on vehicles that are older than X age because of this. As a consumer you have the choice. Throw away your vehicle because nobody will work on it it due to the liability or be reasonable with people who are often on the receiving end of stuff breaking in their hands. Regardless of who pays they still feel bad about it. The mechanic/consumer relationship is based on trust. You are trusting these people with your life. If you don't trust them about brittle plastic you have much bigger problems than the cost of replacement parts. If the mechanic does not trust you they are going to either refuse to work on your car or build a protective margin into your repair order to offset your greedy and unreasonable behavior. TLDR Don't sweat the small stuff and give the folks that do a really dirty and hard job a break.
I wish I had a conscientious local wrench bender here in the east Phoenix Metro area. He would have done almost $10k work on my 2004 Ford Ranger in the last 3 years. New timing chains (4.0L), rack & pinion, upper & lower control arms, rear axle bearings, all new brakes (incl. hoses, drums, calipers & rotors), u-joints, alternator, radiator, a/c compressor (2x), heater blower motor and more. But, hey! Absolutely no rust (AZ desert car since new), never in an accident, never abused, new leather front seat upholstery, new Alpine stereo and speakers, new floor mats and 200k miles. Where can I take it and $10k and have something better that is paid for? Regular maintenance pays for itself over the long haul.
I was worried about tork wrench 🔧 hitting power 🔋. Glad 😊 it was nothing bad. Love ❤️ zip line techniques used in a professional manner looks 👌 good as new 😀 👌
Some Dodge dealers up here are using BG products to clean carbon out of the Cummins engines after they service the edr valve. They don't remove the egr cooler to clean it anymore, I guess it is to much work. I undo the cab mounts on the passenger side and jack up the cab to access the rear egr cooler nuts and clean it myself along with the other components.
Im doing the head gasket on our little scion 1.8l right now. Toyota loves to mix up fasener sizes. Ive got a buch of 12mm mixed in with some 10s , 13s and 14s. 3 different size fasteners just on the timing cover alone.
I think that the zip tie fix is an improvement over the original equipment, and replacing the connectors would just be installing new defective parts that will break the next time someone looks at them, since you asked.
I work on a lot of toyotas and I have had issues with cleaning the throttle body like that. I would be more cautious. Also, for those coil plugs I use needle nose pliers on them. Then the clips don't break. Every other way I have tried to unplug them the clips break.
Yes, we saw that electrical spark from your torque wrench hitting the battery terminal! 😆 😅😅
Nah.....he's getting into special effects just to see if we are watching.
Recharging cycle.
D'oh!
It was funny when he did it. Absolutely no comment from Ray. I mean everytime something drops it is " gravity." He missed the opportunity to say "Torque energy!" which would make pedants heads explode. :D
Battery assisted electronic spark plug torque, so you know its good!
Thanks! This for those that Independence Machanimainiac's that really Make a Living and love it
Ray, it is so nice to see you so happy in your own shop.
I concur and I think we can agree that Ray has earned it for himself. I don't even know the man personally, but I still feel proud of him.
Another example why your channel is so great. You don’t edit out the mishaps.
Hey Ray. In my honest opinion, I always clean the valve covers when I have them off. The one time I didn't do it, the customer came back and stated that the oil leak was not fixed because there was oil residue still on the valve cover. So from then on, I took an extra few minutes and cleaned them in the parts washer. Just a thought. Makes them look nice and shiny.
You take that S apart Always wash your parts Don't do dirty motor work
You know I was thinking Ray usually does clean them off front and back, but he did mention he was in a time crunch.
Agree, Always clean that stuff up! It can help you spot a new leak. Besides, in my opinion it's professional, I want the customer, and or the next mechanic to see this guy does quality work and pays attention to detail. I think it's worth the extra time.
Jesus some customers are far king stupid id 10 ts. Just like I would really, *really* like Ray as my car guy, I think Ray might like me as a customer because I wouldn't pull any💩like that on such a consummate professional. Ken, you sound like _a Ray_ so I hope you make a crap load of money in your profession due to the care you take of your _charges_ for your customers. 👍
@@geemee3364 no one can see valve cover, due to plastic mounted engine cover. And he did end up spraying engine bay down afterwards..
But agreed, my ocd demands a 3min clean and general tools cleaned an on their apropiate spot every work ending day.
But its Rays garage and standards. As long judgement, and work done is up to standards, then its jus5 a matter of opinion..
The hose down at the end is a nice touch. Your customers will definitely appreciate the attention to that detail.
I've been working on engines for over 40 years and I love seeing goofs, gotchas and small things like losing part of your glove under the bolt head. I still learn things from you for sure, keep up the great work.
I'm pretty sure you installed the spark plug tune seals upside down in the valve covers Rounded side Goes tords the top of the valve covers not facing the head @Rainman Ray's Repairs
It is a much better repair to zip tie the connector than splice wires. The problem with splicing wire is simple: 1 If it's a sensor wire, you need to do an exceptional job, because the associated module is looking for specific voltages. 2 If it's a power wire, most people don't understand that one piece of heatshrink may not offer enough insulating resistance. 3 If your new connector isn't at the same length as the old, the wire might be too short and the connector won't reach, or the wire will be too long and look like a mess of s***. 4 Most splices need to happen in very tight places, it's a pain in the a**. 5 If you want a competent, OEM looking repair, you need to replace the split loom for that section of wire. Long story short, the zip tie works great and solves a problem caused by EVERY manufacturer.
The easiest way would be to order the connector bodies and de-pinning the broken connector, and installing the new connector body. Problem is I don’t know how easy it is to find those instock locally.
@@OnTheToolsWithSal not sure about locally but Jeff Bezos has them from several suppliers.
Why on earth would anyone splice wires when the easiest fix is to buy the pigtails and just swap the connectors one wire at a time?
@@OnTheToolsWithSal Well, if you're looking for EASY, just replace the vehicle with a new one.
Amazon had them about 11 or 12 bucks
NY plates? No way! I live in NY, and I'm pretty sure we're the only state with 3 different license plates. 🤔
The world needs more people like you, Ray.
Talk to the car care nut Toyota expert ray he is the man for Toyota mechanics help each other brother
The cable tie fix works and is practical in application .
I have a similar Toyota with a 5VZ-FE, uses the same connectors as the 3.3L 3MZ-FE in this video, same problem with the tabs breaking from heat fatigue.
My engine now has over 350k kms on it and spends plenty of time off road, 4wd and washboard roads with no missfires or coil issues.
If the zip tie repair holds up to that it wont fail on a daily driver!
We don't mind watching you change oil Ray. We enjoy watching everything you do, especially when you work your magic in diags and service. You're the best, Bro!
I must totally agree with this Mad Hatter guy. We enjoy watching everything you do Ray!
Who are "we"?
@@electronicengineer "we" or I?
@@defresurrection Look at how many subscribers Ray has. That should answer your question.
@@defresurrection I would say that "we" are the majority of viewers of Ray's channel here on RUclips. I hope that my law of averages has not offended you.
...yeah 😛 forgetting the coil connections...I was working on my laptop replacing the cooling fan, complete tear down to get to it...only after "reconstruction" did I realize I had neglected to reattach the connector to the replaced fan...another hour & half, along with many unrepeatable words, later did I learn a very hard and unpleasant lesson...kinda like the feeling you get after "reconstruction" and parts are left over ...😎
i wonder how many were triggered by the tabs breaking lol.. its a fact of life with old plastic. love your videos ray. Im a mechanic from the Northeast working on rusty rotted cars lol so that highlander isnt terribible at all. i see eric o level cars in NH
Owned one of those. Found it at a dealer on the internet. Flew to Sarasota to buy it. Great vehicle. It’s actually one of a few, over the years, that I miss.
I'm sure the engine cover is the main reason those clips break. That extra heat being retained for a little bling when you poppining ze hood.
That zip tie trick seems to work well with those broken coil connector plugs. I don't think anyone would bust you for not replacing them. It probably would be a good idea to save those old rear coils in case any of the old front ones fail .....
I completely agree. Perhaps Toyota would be better to seek that solution as a factory fitment?
@@joetaylor486 I'm thinking Toyota could put the clip (point of failure) on the coil side vs. the plug side, so when the coils get replaced, the clip is new along with the new coils. Avoids putting Ray and other fine mechanics into moral dilemna mode... :)
Since first seeing Ray use the tie strap trick he learned, I have used it, but found a way to just slip it in without having to actually lock the strap.
Problem with zip ties is they tend to get brittle from the heat of the engine and also with time. a good pot hole and they break.
Optional up sale to offer to the customer at the beginning of the job. "This is likely to happen...which option. Would you like to be used. This option cost $1 this one costs $30 and this option costs $300
Great job as usual but @30:09 I was saying "Ray you didn't clean off the valve cover before you placed the beauty cover"!!!!
Two comments Ray,
(1) It really impressed the HELL out of me that you didn't even flinch when you hit the battery terminal and made sparks with the torque wrench.
(2) I was hoping to see how you repaired that broken vacuum line connector. I've had that happen to me and had to replace the entire unit, not knowing how to fix it.
Ditto on #2. I broke one on that emissions package that goes on top of the rail and it was over $100 to replace.
I love the use of the honda bond sealant on a toyota. I work at a honda dealership and its so easy to work with. I use it on all of my personal vehicles and have never had an issue with them leaking prematurely
Honda bond is great but have discovered “right stuff” sealant and it seems to be excellent stuff also
This was my Dad's favorite channel. Thank you.
As I disassembled, I would write things down in a numbered list and follow it from the bottom, beyond 3 or 4 things when my mind is busy, I cannot reliably recall. Going to photos or manuals is usually when you feel something is wrong or have spare parts laying around, it is usually too late for the proper sequence or totally forgotten.
You said something about the "Fuel Bar" right after your injector wire mistake. I thought you said "FUBAR". And I was in total agreement.
We had a 2006 Toyota Sienna with that same engine. I did plugs a couple of times and timing belt and water pump twice as well. The front bank of those connectors broke on me too. In my opinion, YOU ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE for those and I think your fix was appropriate. I used zip ties as well but did it a little different. I think your way is better. I realize this video is a year old, but if you're ever feeling nostalgic and are browsing the comments....
Hey Ray, that intake screen just before the first throttle body is called spark arrestor. Prevents backfire and flame out. Common in Lamm mowers etc.
I slip a length of 1/4" fuel line over the tip of the spark plug and slide the plug into the hole and get it started. Easy peasy - no worries about dropping the plug into the hole.
You have done another fantastic job the mankind needs more people like you two.
with all the parts supply issues, there is no reason to replace something that has not failed.
as long as the fix does it’s job you are all set. you should not have to pay for the engineers
bad design, using an inferior polymer for the locking mechanism.great video, take care and be safe out there!
Toyota is great about making connectors available and it takes very little time to unpin the wires (never solder them). I try to always go this way especially when it is in a visible /easily accessed location. Whenever I run into zip tied connectors my first thought is always negative about who was in there last.
Replacement connectors do exist for the 3.3L. I did the front bank on my daughters 04 RX330 AWD. I'll look for the receipt to get the company's name.
Good morning Ray. We love your show. Also watch your wife unit too. God bless you and your family.
Have an '07 Highlander just like that one, did plugs a couple years ago, not a fun job when you consider all you have to do to get to the back three cylinders. I broke a coil clip too and zip tied it.
Love the spark you got when doing the sparkplug torque
thanks for the pleasant demeanor while filming. it really makes a more enjoyable experience. sub +1
That was a very good video. You are showing everyone that even though mechanics have to have a good memory of where all the parts and bolts go, sometimes we miss some steps we went threw on reassembly. At least the engine was happy you were working onit, because we saw a little fireworks display. It's not only connectors that get brittle with age other parts and hoses do to. If they can be repaired with out replacing, it will save the customer money. But it is what it is and things get brttle and break.
At 22:16 was that battery clickage on the torque wrench, now it needs recalibrated. Gr8 job on valve cover gaskets especially the backside, never enough room, and good catch on the injector leads.
I like the sparks on number 1 when hit the live terminal
Replacing the rear coils was a good call. All the coils on this vehicle was stressed with the size gap on the plugs, so failure can be highly likely. As for the 3 old ones since they all work the customer has spares.
Had the frame replaced on a 3 y/o Silverado due to being rear ended. Hate to think how many broken connectors I have now. I do see more electrical tape in the engine compartment.
Ok , your opinion - way back in service mechanical school we had a Chief Petty Officer as an instructor who felt that if you checked your torque on fasteners more than once , you were double torquing the nut/bolt . I always felt the the torque wrench could not add but only click/ snap at the setting so only the original torque setting was applied once .
Finding a tech that treats others cars like they would there own if not better is rare if I lived in your area I wouldn’t take my autos anywhere else keep killing my friend glad to see your shop is growing!!!
Like the way you fixed that broken vacuum line
12:41 I saw that zip technique on another vid other day. I broke my tabs on my 04 es330 lol.
Good video was very entertaining @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Great video! When I worked in a shop, BG and Zep were some of the best products you could use. Both at that time were not available to the consumer. The connectors were just a casualty of the job! Awesome job, thanks!
not gonna lie, i would really really like to get my Car to Ray´s garage to get my repairs, not only would i get an Expert working on my Car but i would also have it really well documentated on Video to watch it afterwards. Great Job Ray
Truly an untapped market. I bet most of us would gladly pay %20 more to be absolutely certain the job is done right, with proof. Hell, 30%.
And with more mechanics doing it, I bet improvements in the video methods also, like maybe permanent camera mount points around bay, etc.
@@ckmoore101 have you caught South Main Auto with Eric O., he said that he does not want the responsibility of out of towners making the hours long trip to get work done and then have something else fail on trip back. I can see his reasoning and don't blame him one bit. there is enough locals to keep them busy
It's worth it if you live on the Peninsula Gulf Coast or will be there on an extended trip to say the Freedom Factory, fishing charters, or the dreaded Disney swamp.
I saw the plug torque wrench spark when it hit the + battery post. I'm surprised you didn't say anything.
Video marker 28:42
I do believe the vehicle is destined for a short in the future
Down in the cig plug looks like debris
I had a penny fall into mine and it shorted the plug and fuse and everything that was on that fuse electrical line
This was a very quick notice but can see something in the electrical plug at video marker
I was doing an oil cooler on a 3.6 L pentastar engine, I had the lower intake installed and then I noticed that I had forgotten the shop towels inside of the intake to stop crud from entering the engine. Thank God I seen them before I put the upper intake on or it wouldn't have been nice
Gotta love the Eric O reach around for starting zee engine
Ray explain those 2 part cam shaft gears you know where the one cam gear is split in 2 so that the cam gear is in time but also one tooth in front
xx
The ziptie method seems to be pretty widespread and there doesn't seem to be a downside to it as long as you don't use super cheap ones that will melt and they don't seem to be difficult to remove for future service. I would say the rule of "no harm no foul" applies
Correct NO harbor freight 💩!
Really like the naration over the high speed video.
When using a wobble socket and it flops around loosely slip an o ring slightly smaller than the joint or a rubber band at joint to keep from flopping from side to side. You will still have flex of the joint. It will be a little bit tighter
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that jumps when old sparky helps with the repair.
I do this for a living 45 years wish Ya all the best
BG EPR is awesome. Pour in, drive for 20 minutes on the highway, drain and put fresh oil. Really helps engines that has some oil use or even cleaning a good engine every 20K miles
My take on the coil connector tabs breaking is that you take all due care, but plastic becomes brittle over time, especially when exposed to heat and petrochemical vapours and liquids. So, have a disclaimer about old, brittle and/or distressed plastic parts can break and people need to accept that there is that modicum of risk.
The fact that you take steps to restore the *functionality* (if not the actual construction) of said plastic pieces helps cover your arse in these situations too.
I suspect that the reason for the front-side coil connectors being more brittle than their back-side brethren is actually due to the engine cover trapping heat, oil and petrol fumes thus exposing the plastic to a more intense environment.
Dear Ray. The "Broken Connector Issue" is TOTALLY THE FAULT OF THE MANUFACTURER. There should be a specific law, regarding connectors' quality and lasting durability. We need another Ralph Nader to stop the manufacturers from building LOW Quality items that involve vehicle performance. Clearly, Ignition matters, for safe operation. The connectors are low quality. Not your fault. You have RESTORED the tab to new-like performance. YOU DID GREAT WORK. WISH you could make a close up video, showing how the zip-ties are correctly used. It looks like magic to my view......hope you can make a video some day......Thanks in advance.
This episode was "electric", Really gave me a charge for today! Thanks Ray!
Last person touching it owns it..... But that doesn't mean you have to completely redo it. It means that you make it work. Zip tie forward !
I used to believe that motor referred to electric motors only.... But recently I checked online and found the following definition; Motor is a machine that converts energy into motion. So that would appear to include electric motors and internal combustion engines.
I think you should put some kind of disclaimer in the shop about the situation with brittle connectors and what your policy is. Let customers know that you will happy to replace these connectors on older cars but that there will be an additional charge. Maybe state that this is applicable to vehicles over a certain age.
Yes, tell ‘em up front to expect it.
you missed out on using the brake clean on the rocker cover after you had put fresh oil in .
As long as you use high quality zip ties that don't melt, it's not an issue. I might suggest you use a colored tie to help the next guy that has to remove them. The black ties, once covered with dirt and grim will be invisible.
From the looks of the inside of engine I’d say the owner has been using Quaker State oil. Best idea is to use any oil that will keep your engine clean and most do. In our shops we stoped using Quaker in the 70s because of this problem. Great video Ray 👍
For a few keyboard mechanics, my 2006 Highlander has been without coil connector clips for 10 years without them ever coming loose. If OCD has a grip on you, new connectors can be installed by removing each terminal one by one and reinserting it in the new connector housing. It won't accomplish anything, but you will feel so much better after spending a hundred bucks and 8 hours labor, In five years you can do it all again!
Appreciated the speed ups on portions of the video. 👍
Yes, you can buy & splice-in the replacement connectors with the 4 pigtails each, OR if the metal connections are serviceable, you can just swap over only the plastic part of the connectors. It's a bit fiddly, but so is soldering 24 wires. The zip-tie trick is probably OK, but for my daughter's car, I changed the plastic parts. BTW, I love your work.
I use a heat gun on them before trying to get them off and it does work as they do get very brittle but for replacing them i would be happy as long as they stay on ,thanks for the video
5:08 that hose on the right was so stiff and I wasn't careful,.. it broke the nipple off the little plastic box on that emissions dodad. $124 to replace the whole thing. I think I could have just gotten that box, but I'd have to pull each hose and since it sits right on the engine, figured I'd break the other one as well. New one came with all new hoses including that one that caused me the trouble in the first place.
Well since you told us many times and probably the customer as well. We all knew the tabs would break. The pigtail itself is still serviceable, zip ties/silicone are good enough for me. I use zipties all the time.
Nearly 1/2 a Million subs, well deserved.
I noticed you don't do the courtesy battery terminal cleans since you left the other shop (at least I haven't seen them in your videos). Haaa, you didn't mention your bobo at 22:15.
Nice part two video. And only lower meniscus fluids (like oil) stick to the sides of the container they are in, upper meniscus fluids, like water beads up and has much greater surface tension and does not stick to the side of containers
17:00 Wow you work so fast, no wonder why you're always under the timesheet.
One thing I don’t miss bout Fl is the pollen!!! If your sensitive to it your sick quick
I have the same engine in an '06 Solara. It has the same heat related problems. My coil connector latches snapped off. I just secured them with wire. Also, many of the small tubes under and not under the decorative cover became hard, brittle and cracked. If it's a liability issue, you should write it into your service agreement and verbally state that you will not be responsible for plastic and rubber parts that have become brittle from age and heat. If you are so inclined, state that you will do some reasonable repair to secure them but not replace them. It is best if the customer is informed of these things. Right? you didn't cause them to become brittle.
Worked on an engine video but it really ended up being an oil change video!😉 Still like 'em both or whatever else you
work on Ray!
22:13 that was a nice battery shortcircuit click...⚡
I did the same job last year and it was a pain to get to the rear valve cover off. I came across the same thing with the coil connectors breaking. Good thinking with the zip ties, very clean look.
The front white faces of the connectors are clipped on over a tab on the connector body. You pry that tab up (also being brittle, mine just broke there too, so maybe just break the white piece off with a pair of grips). Once removed, that exposes holes below the connector sockets that allow you to insert a pin, which unlocks each metal terminal from the main body. You can then (carefully) pull each wire out the back of the connector body.
It's probably possible to make a tool with four properly spaced stout pins to unlock and pull the four terminals all at once. But only if you had a repeated need for such a tool.
The only slight trick is keeping the four wires in the correct order when reinserting them back through the seals on the new connector body, so only do one connector at a time. They lay fairly flat, so I run a few loops of tape over them to keep them in order; just remember which side is Up.
I think the new ones have the faces already installed as there is no need to remove them when reinserting the uncut, un-soldered, original factory wire terminals. Repeat as necessary. Admittedly, the back three on a V6 will still be a fiddly job.
EPR you are supposed to get the engine to temp and then run for 10 minutes for port inject and 20 for direct injection.
For many years I've uses a 1/2 quart of Kerosine or transmission fluid as a motor flush . Let it run for 5-10 minutes then change the oil and filter .
22:14 you touched the positive battery terminal with the torque wrench :))
Love the videos Ray, i also have a Toyota Kluger 2006 (japanese version) im from South America btw. Question: is it ok to spray water to the engine just like that ?
Hello Ray , so you changed both head gaskets on the 3.3 that you had to make it in 2 parts , I was just wondering why you didn't clean the head covers when you had them off ? Now the engine looks the same as when you didn't do anything but pop the hood ! You are now a business owner you seem to be cutting some corners and calling it good .
Things change when you own the shop and have to pay for the brake cleaner
Sparks @ 22:15 😲😲😲😲 Have a great weekend Ray🤘
A few years ago I brought my MV Agusta F4 to the shop for some service. The mechanic broke the connector off of a couple fuel injectors. If you know much about MV Agusta's the engine was designed by Ferrari and parts aren't cheap. New fuel injectors were around $400 each. My mechanic offered to replace the injectors on his dime but I would not let him. It was a 2002 model motorcycle and the plastic was just old and brittle. I had him do all 4 injectors as the non broken ones were likely going to break off in someone's hand in the future.
There's a huge trade off that most owners don't understand when getting their vehicles serviced. Older vehicles are a liability to people who repair them due to situations just like this. A lot of shops refuse to work on vehicles that are older than X age because of this. As a consumer you have the choice. Throw away your vehicle because nobody will work on it it due to the liability or be reasonable with people who are often on the receiving end of stuff breaking in their hands. Regardless of who pays they still feel bad about it.
The mechanic/consumer relationship is based on trust. You are trusting these people with your life. If you don't trust them about brittle plastic you have much bigger problems than the cost of replacement parts. If the mechanic does not trust you they are going to either refuse to work on your car or build a protective margin into your repair order to offset your greedy and unreasonable behavior.
TLDR Don't sweat the small stuff and give the folks that do a really dirty and hard job a break.
I wish I had a conscientious local wrench bender here in the east Phoenix Metro area. He would have done almost $10k work on my 2004 Ford Ranger in the last 3 years. New timing chains (4.0L), rack & pinion, upper & lower control arms, rear axle bearings, all new brakes (incl. hoses, drums, calipers & rotors), u-joints, alternator, radiator, a/c compressor (2x), heater blower motor and more. But, hey! Absolutely no rust (AZ desert car since new), never in an accident, never abused, new leather front seat upholstery, new Alpine stereo and speakers, new floor mats and 200k miles. Where can I take it and $10k and have something better that is paid for?
Regular maintenance pays for itself over the long haul.
No idea what that "spare" nut was doing on top of that strut tower, but you put it there in the previous video.
I was worried about tork wrench 🔧 hitting power 🔋. Glad 😊 it was nothing bad. Love ❤️ zip line techniques used in a professional manner looks 👌 good as new 😀 👌
Some Dodge dealers up here are using BG products to clean carbon out of the Cummins engines after they service the edr valve. They don't remove the egr cooler to clean it anymore, I guess it is to much work. I undo the cab mounts on the passenger side and jack up the cab to access the rear egr cooler nuts and clean it myself along with the other components.
you can unpin the connector and repin a new connector. no soldering or crimps needed..
Im doing the head gasket on our little scion 1.8l right now. Toyota loves to mix up fasener sizes. Ive got a buch of 12mm mixed in with some 10s , 13s and 14s. 3 different size fasteners just on the timing cover alone.
I think that the zip tie fix is an improvement over the original equipment, and replacing the connectors would just be installing new defective parts that will break the next time someone looks at them, since you asked.
I work on a lot of toyotas and I have had issues with cleaning the throttle body like that. I would be more cautious.
Also, for those coil plugs I use needle nose pliers on them. Then the clips don't break. Every other way I have tried to unplug them the clips break.
Old plastic crap not your fault, your plastic tie repair is spot on!
The zip ties make more sense than cutting and splicing wires. Splices are always more vulnerable to water intrusion and corrosion.