Thumbs up bro! Love watching your videos and wish you plenty of success with your channel. You got my support all the way! Best of luck with your upcoming videos and always stay safe when you’re working. Can’t wait for new content to post!
Yannis this is my question too. I’d like to remove side molding on my Land Cruiser, weld the holes and repaint. The Rust Check guy said this could invite rust or rippling over time. I live in the mid-west so lots of salt being thrown around
I wish I had the tools and scrap metals so I can do my own repairs. Everything is 5x expensive in the Pacific islands. So for something like this, I'd sand both outer and the inner panel (if I have access) as best as I can, then use epoxy resin like JB weld to seal up the holes. Primer, paint, clearcoat, then polish. Greetings friend, from the tiny islands of Palau.
Fantastic, I'm looking to start welding and found that not only amazing but very helpful. I thought it would of had a few bumps in but it looks like it's never been worked on, like new. thanks for taking the time to film your good work and will be looking out for more vides.
It's really a shame that you get so many genius' that seem to know all about everything. 99% of the folks that watch are thankful for you sharing your knowledge. What spare gun and compressor are you using?
THIS right here is the BEST video I’ve seen on this subject to date. He covers everything from start to finish & explains it super well. Awesome job my friend. 😉😎👍🏻👍🏻
Feel like I'm learning a lot from the couple of videos I've watched of yours. Nice repair. I can't weld nor do I want to, but this is all good stuff worth watching and taking in.
Good job if you lived in the sunny warm California like climate . Up here at the salt belt country that will lass for 1.5 years paint bubbkes then rust will show up again. More work is required to prevent rust.
He could, but then there could be rust on the back side, and it would just eat through the metal again. The proper way to fix rust is to cut it all out and weld in a patch, that way it doesn't come back.
Elijah Fowler That is true. I didn't take the backside into consideration, my bad....lol. BUT, with that said, most rear quarter panels are accessible from the trunk, MOST anyway. So you could plug weld the holes then go into the trunk to access the backside to clean and rust proof it. I know this isn't ideal on some cars though so you will be forced to cut out all the rusted metal anyway, specially when you get into the edge of quarter panels where they bend.
If there is a rust hole in panel it means that rust made metal thin enough to form a hole so better replace piece than just weld them because there will be soon new hole next to fixed hole.
iivoli You can see on this car the metal isn't that thin at all from the rust and the metal cleaned up just fine when he took a flap disc to it. So he COULD have plug welded it fine. If you think it would have caused bigger holes then you don't know how to weld.
Gruby Garage Projekt if the body filler it’s compatible with bare metal its aceptable.. in fact I know a lot of body man that remove any primer to bare metal before a playing body filler..
Mad4Motors Ok but in my careful opinion that is not nearly enough to protect the bare metal and prevent rusting from the inside out. Rx 5 and Rx 10 would be a start.
I have a question for you Before the welding anything have to disconnect from the car ? I sawed my mechanic disconnect some electrical thing from my car before he start welding
i'm no expert but seeing how you did it in the video. You have some mad skills and finesse. This convinced me to subscribe to your channel. Although, you have a small library of vids, I hope to see more vids in the future
Is that fish eye in the paint by the upper rear door? Good restoration the only thing I would have done different is remove the tail light and drop the bumper down on the painted side.
Also just to add. When your cutting into the panel. Tac the new piece over the area. Then cut through new down through old at 45 deg angle. This helps both metal butt together so its the right height without using a magnet and weld bit by bit as usual in the video.
Did a fix like that 8 yrs ago on my dad's truck looked great for 5 yrs then it came back because I missed the final step of coating the repair from the back now I get to replace a larger area it's best to do it right the first time so you don't have to feel like a dumby after you realize your great work was just one big fuck up
Awesome job! Thanks for the explanation! Well done! I just came here to look how the hot torch looks like for the animation in my Drift Explanation video! :) (diff welding)
it is best to get sheet metal from other cars at the junkyard because those have already been zinc plated from the factory and are more corrosion resistant than getting sheet metal from home depot
Buy some 3M Cubitron flap-discs. Never look at another brand of flap disc again. :-) What used take ages now takes seconds - the Ferrari of flap discs. Love the vids. Very good. :-)
@@SwastikSwarupDas paint won't stick to galvanised metal, better to just coat the back of the metal with weld through primer and if you can use body sealer from the back after its welded in that's a bonus
That section of the panel is actually inside the vehicle, sure, it could rust a little, but there's not going to be enough moisture in the vehicle to cause a new rust problem.
Elijah Fowler all it takes is one small thin compromised spot that was almost a pinhole after ground down on the outside to let the cancer start all over again, often more aggressive than before. Most guys aren't real pros at welding thin sheetmetal. It takes a long time to be decent at it and you have to take your time to not warp or blow holes. Most production shops won't allow for this kind of luxury time, and most guys just stick it together and pave it over with filler. Painting/undercoating the backside is good insurance for the longevity of a permanently lasting quality job. It's best to cover your ass instead of leaving it bare.
Good video. Lots of smart tips. But to be honest im missing the fact how you need to work the backside of the metal. Do you just paint it with a ground paint. Or do you not paint it at all? Thumbs up for the rest
Hello, can I ask if you needed to disconnect the Battery and Alternator in the car before you you started to weld, or anything else? ... and my compliments on your videos, Chris
Nice, welding is not something I'd ever be able to do. But enjoyed watching the process none the less. I was wondering, my car has some lovely key marks that were left for me by some generous person. The scratches break the clear coat and go into the base/primer but not the metal as they have not started to rust. They've been there about 2 years now, thankfully they aren't super long but hate looking at them none the less. I did try and touch the smallest one up with some touch up paint and a tiny artists brush, but when it came to levelling it out I burnt through the surrounding clear/base in literally less than 10 passes with 1200 grit wetdry. Car is a 2010 Accord and I know it has very soft/thin paint/clear on it. I was wondering if you could do a video showing how you might remove scratches without repainting the entire panel or having a massive repair area that may be more visible than the scratches. I was hoping to touch it up and sand it flat but it seems like the very think Honda paint has eliminated that option. Thanks alot, sorry for the long question. Also its a black car, which I'd assume makes it even worse to try get it right?
Black can be a tricky colour to work with has the reflection is like a mirror and will show the smallest imperfection, the process i would do is touch in the black with base coat colour with a very fine brush sand the excess away (lightly!) and then touch it in with clearcoat and wet sand and buff
My truck has more rust then that I saw a video on RUclips and they used sheet metal and plaster and let the plaster dry after the got all the rust off. I am gonna try that for my truck but I need to get another pad a steel round blade to put on my angle grinder. I might have sheet metal at home and I have a soldering iron so I can use that when I put the sheet metal on that covers up the hole once I grind all the rust down.
@Mad4Motors so you’ve used only finishing filler and that’s eneough when welding in an element ? I’ve bought 3 different fillers as I was hoping to do a job like on a chrisfix video but then decided to weld in a panel. Is it a bad idea to put on fiberglass filler then finishing filler and glaze putty on a welded panel ? Seems overkill
I have a rust hole similar to this in my legacy. How do you prep the backside of the panel to prevent "re-rust"? The spot I have is on the rear fender and not accessible from the back side.
Bloody good job Mate, Not something I could do as I cant weld to save my life even though I own a welder. Although after watching you I might give it another go. 👍
You could also use spray paint to trace the shape of the original piece, by putting it on the new piece of metal and spraying over it then remove it and you have the shape
How do I make the rust not come back? Lol...getting a wheel well repaired with new metal and people keep saying the rust will come back. Esp at the weld spot in future because water will somehow get in...really bummed about this because I just got the car smh.. can I Plasti dip over the repair to ensure no water ever comes into contact with the weld repair again? Lol. Best options to make sure the wheel well doesn't rust again at the weld spot ? Thanks for any replies. Need some optimism lol. Going to be paying $800 for a wheel well repair ( cut out old metal and weld in new )
I recently did some touch up working my kids car for him. It turned out good but something happened. The clear coat just peeled off in sheets? I used a base coat ( some brand I got from Canadian tire ) then put 2k clear coat. Can you tell please why the clear coat peeled off a week later when he washed the car? Awesome video by the way 👍
I would guess that it was a problem with the base colour and the clear would not adhere to it because 2k is normally a tough clear and would stick to almost anything
Elijah Fowler another inncorect comment. You don't sand base coat, it will disturb the metallic pattern making it very obvious. Only sand primers, unless the recoat time window has expired. This time window is differant for all types of materials, that's what material data sheets are for.
James Wilson if your base color and clear were compatible, sounds like it's possible that you didn't get the clear applied before the base color fully cured. Once the base has flashed over (10-15mins) is the best time to lay the clear on. The base color could have been old and had previously been exposed to open air too long and rhen sealed up again. Automotive painting can be a tricky chemical process when mix and matching products if you don't use them frequently and are familiar with the do's and dont's of a individual products limitations. Always try to refer to a materials data sheet when steping outside a "complete paint system" to ensure chemical compatibility.
Measure and cut the patch to required size and use that to scribe the surface for removal. 6 of one vs. half dozen of the other but that's the best way I've seen. I see in the reflection no goggles and no cans as you grind. Use them and life will be less grim.
Ok so my question is..... what is done about the raw steel on the inside of the panel??? Won't that just start to rust away again???? Do you primer inside/back side of panel?
One question: how do you protect the backside (insiste) welded panel? I am using a mig welder and I grind both sides, but some parts are inacessible. Please advise
Nor really. Arc welding is better where there is a greater thickness of metal - on something like this it is pretty much impossible to get a balance between not attaching a steady arc, and not blowing right through and making the hole bigger. The thinner wire and steadier arc that the inert gas fill allows, is needed to do sheet metal welds that are any good. In general the wire/ stick diameter needs to be similar to the thickness being welded.
Why create additional work by tacking a Earth stud you could have attached the earth clamp basically on any chassis blot, stud etc. Plus always disconnect the battery before doing and electric welding. You should also always treat the welds so they don't start rusting as it will start rusting out in no time. Ok so it's off to scrap.
Thumbs up bro! Love watching your videos and wish you plenty of success with your channel. You got my support all the way! Best of luck with your upcoming videos and always stay safe when you’re working. Can’t wait for new content to post!
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇 👇
ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html
Respect. This car is going to the scrap yard and you still did this for your channel. Real gangster you are.
"This car doesn't actually have an engine. It's heading to the scrap heap." Fucking LOL
Great videos, well done. I think I'm getting the confidence to do a job on my car after watching a selection of your videos on this topic.
Don't Forget The Other Side Still Bare metal Good Idea to put rust protection
What kind of rust protection is good for the other side?
Yannis you just need primer or paint to protect it from rust
@@mrpanda2655 I'd blast it with some fluid film too, but I'm paranoid about rust.
samsondelighted then spray rust reformer paint
Yannis this is my question too. I’d like to remove side molding on my Land Cruiser, weld the holes and repaint. The Rust Check guy said this could invite rust or rippling over time. I live in the mid-west so lots of salt being thrown around
the guy did a pretty good job ,,,a real metal patch,,,, wish more people saw this...
I wish I had the tools and scrap metals so I can do my own repairs. Everything is 5x expensive in the Pacific islands. So for something like this, I'd sand both outer and the inner panel (if I have access) as best as I can, then use epoxy resin like JB weld to seal up the holes. Primer, paint, clearcoat, then polish. Greetings friend, from the tiny islands of Palau.
Fantastic, I'm looking to start welding and found that not only amazing but very helpful.
I thought it would of had a few bumps in but it looks like it's never been worked on, like new.
thanks for taking the time to film your good work and will be looking out for more vides.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇 👇
ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html
It's really a shame that you get so many genius' that seem to know all about everything. 99% of the folks that watch are thankful for you sharing your knowledge. What spare gun and compressor are you using?
THIS right here is the BEST video I’ve seen on this subject to date. He covers everything from start to finish & explains it super well. Awesome job my friend. 😉😎👍🏻👍🏻
Hey mate what do you do to prevent rust on the other side of the patch panel since you cant paint it once its welded in?
MAte, 3:30 is a killer, chilling after work, checking this video...my hearth stopped. stay safe bro.
thank for taking the time to help us out, have a great day!
Even though I don't have a grinder, welder or rust. Still a good educational video.
Glad you learned something 👍
One of the best videos ever on how to actually repair it fast ,cheap and good 👌🏼
Use safey ward and glasses when you work. Your eyes and hand are so skilled to replace. Good work👏
Nice vid but how to paint tje backside of the metal? I mean there is probably still some uncovered metal that will rust again
Thanks, I learnt a lot from this 10 min video! Perfectly straight to the point.
Feel like I'm learning a lot from the couple of videos I've watched of yours. Nice repair. I can't weld nor do I want to, but this is all good stuff worth watching and taking in.
Good job if you lived in the sunny warm California like climate . Up here at the salt belt country that will lass for 1.5 years paint bubbkes then rust will show up again. More work is required to prevent rust.
Instead of using the body filler, could you go over the gaps with the welder again, or do you risk doing more harm than good?
yeah, I would, why let moisture and road salt in from the gaps in the backside. Or use all metal body filler over it, it's made by USC
Can you do a video on how to fix some small surface rust on the exterior of the car? Thanks!
I think this is the best tutorial. Thank you!
Not sure why you sanded the rust that you cut out.
Maybe to see the extent of the rust.
Don't you love it when people who don't have a clue about something like to comment.
@@Professional_RUclips_Commenter Don't you love it when someone is a complete asshole over a genuine interest in why something was done a certain way.
To fecking see if it needs to be cut out at all maybe?
Grimshaw Grummage, Be nice, it was only a question?
Nice job. But um, you do know you could have just plug welded the holes right?
He could, but then there could be rust on the back side, and it would just eat through the metal again.
The proper way to fix rust is to cut it all out and weld in a patch, that way it doesn't come back.
Elijah Fowler That is true. I didn't take the backside into consideration, my bad....lol. BUT, with that said, most rear quarter panels are accessible from the trunk, MOST anyway. So you could plug weld the holes then go into the trunk to access the backside to clean and rust proof it. I know this isn't ideal on some cars though so you will be forced to cut out all the rusted metal anyway, specially when you get into the edge of quarter panels where they bend.
If there is a rust hole in panel it means that rust made metal thin enough to form a hole so better replace piece than just weld them because there will be soon new hole next to fixed hole.
Sure he could have plug welded them if he would have wanted even bigger holes.
iivoli You can see on this car the metal isn't that thin at all from the rust and the metal cleaned up just fine when he took a flap disc to it. So he COULD have plug welded it fine. If you think it would have caused bigger holes then you don't know how to weld.
The thing I don't understand about this repair is that the reverse side of the metal hasn't been treated and will be rusting behind the panel.
LOL, the ending just killed me. After all that "this car doesn't actually have an engine, it's heading for the scrap heap". LOL
You made that look ridiculously easy. How annoying is that but thank you for taking the time to upload this extremely detailed video.
Hi you can do it, does take a little patience 👍
Nice repair buddy. Could you do a video on how to set up the paint gun and compressor ready to paint for a beginner please
Im looking for one too
@@sdlivin4907 same here
Using the squint method of eye protection at 1:08. Great video. Hoping to do my first bit of welding soon, this is great help.
You should put a coat of epoxy primer on bare metal before filler
Gruby Garage Projekt if the body filler it’s compatible with bare metal its aceptable.. in fact I know a lot of body man that remove any primer to bare metal before a playing body filler..
Most body fillers is meant to apply straight to bare metal.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 check this after two years after aplication...
A poxy primers get on bare metal if you're gonna let it sit for a long time before you do body work
All body filly should be applied to your base material. You can't hide body filler if it's over paint otherwise you'll always have a high spot.
Great job! But.....use the angle grinder guard bro!
Why
@@michaeltaylor1553 So grinder doesn't pop into your hand. I didn't use guard and grinder popped into my hand. Some tendons cut.
Engage safety squints!
You don’t neeed safety glasses.....
@@wyattrichardson6237 lol
Finally the right way to eliminate rust that is a fantastic repair 👍
I'm thinking wow the guy you are doing this for will be amazed... loved the plot twist at the end
This fellow tells you how to do this in best way he is grate to follow if doing body work for cars 💯🌏
Just watched the bonnet and wing video as well. The panel looked great to me. Reading the comments is gas.
Excellent repair.
what would you do about protecting the bare metal on the inside of the panel where the rust actually came from?
Hi yes I brushed on some etch primer on the inside
Mad4Motors
Ok but in my careful opinion that is not nearly enough to protect the bare metal and prevent rusting from the inside out.
Rx 5 and Rx 10 would be a start.
I have a question for you
Before the welding anything have to disconnect from the car ?
I sawed my mechanic disconnect some electrical thing from my car before he start welding
Yes, the battery should be completely disconnected from the car, especially newer ones with sensitive computers.
@@archygrey9093 thanks for information mate #respect
Great video, what type of welder is it does it require gas
Ha that was gas it should last a lifetime 2 seconds later it has no engine it's going to the scrap 👍😂😂
i'm no expert but seeing how you did it in the video. You have some mad skills and finesse. This convinced me to subscribe to your channel. Although, you have a small library of vids, I hope to see more vids in the future
Thats great, thanks!
Is that fish eye in the paint by the upper rear door? Good restoration the only thing I would have done different is remove the tail light and drop the bumper down on the painted side.
Also just to add. When your cutting into the panel. Tac the new piece over the area. Then cut through new down through old at 45 deg angle. This helps both metal butt together so its the right height without using a magnet and weld bit by bit as usual in the video.
Wut
Did a fix like that 8 yrs ago on my dad's truck looked great for 5 yrs then it came back because I missed the final step of coating the repair from the back now I get to replace a larger area it's best to do it right the first time so you don't have to feel like a dumby after you realize your great work was just one big fuck up
Excellent vid..... ur skill levels r top notch.
Awesome job! Thanks for the explanation! Well done! I just came here to look how the hot torch looks like for the animation in my Drift Explanation video! :) (diff welding)
You make this look so easy!! Brilliant!!
Cheers mate a great no fluff tutorial just what I was after, I've subscribed
Thanks for uploading. Where do you get the metal from? As in - where can you get the sheet metal for welding in the new pieces?
it is best to get sheet metal from other cars at the junkyard because those have already been zinc plated from the factory and are more corrosion resistant than getting sheet metal from home depot
Buy some 3M Cubitron flap-discs. Never look at another brand of flap disc again. :-) What used take ages now takes seconds - the Ferrari of flap discs. Love the vids. Very good. :-)
Nice job dude ! But can you just spray clear coat over a scuffed up panel??? I always thought you'd have to hit it with a layer of base coat first
Av987 he did
what did you do to the other side of the panel? only exterior repair, the inside will rust
Great tips for measuring , thx bro! 🇧🇪😎Bob the Belgian
Nice job. I was just wondering what about protecting the new piece agains rust from the inside? What I saw was just bare metal.
I think he said this car was going to the scrap but I would probably coat it on the back
Hi, how do you ensure that the inside of the metal doesn't rust, if you can't get behind the repair once welded in? Great video 😀
i think you should use galvanised metal
@@SwastikSwarupDas paint won't stick to galvanised metal, better to just coat the back of the metal with weld through primer and if you can use body sealer from the back after its welded in that's a bonus
That section of the panel is actually inside the vehicle, sure, it could rust a little, but there's not going to be enough moisture in the vehicle to cause a new rust problem.
Elijah Fowler all it takes is one small thin compromised spot that was almost a pinhole after ground down on the outside to let the cancer start all over again, often more aggressive than before.
Most guys aren't real pros at welding thin sheetmetal. It takes a long time to be decent at it and you have to take your time to not warp or blow holes. Most production shops won't allow for this kind of luxury time, and most guys just stick it together and pave it over with filler.
Painting/undercoating the backside is good insurance for the longevity of a permanently lasting quality job.
It's best to cover your ass instead of leaving it bare.
given that the rust is a straight line, it looks like the rst occured from the inside, where water followed a straight line.
Great job, your videos are all great, keep up the good work!
Where is the epoxy primer? How is this thing is going to hold on clean, plain peace of metal? The rest is nice and informative. Thanks.
Good video. Lots of smart tips. But to be honest im missing the fact how you need to work the backside of the metal. Do you just paint it with a ground paint. Or do you not paint it at all? Thumbs up for the rest
No eye protection when you're grinding?
You are very skilled! 👍👍
Thank you 👍
Hello, can I ask if you needed to disconnect the Battery and Alternator in the car before you you started to weld, or anything else? ... and my compliments on your videos, Chris
Yes good point
Nice, welding is not something I'd ever be able to do. But enjoyed watching the process none the less. I was wondering, my car has some lovely key marks that were left for me by some generous person. The scratches break the clear coat and go into the base/primer but not the metal as they have not started to rust. They've been there about 2 years now, thankfully they aren't super long but hate looking at them none the less. I did try and touch the smallest one up with some touch up paint and a tiny artists brush, but when it came to levelling it out I burnt through the surrounding clear/base in literally less than 10 passes with 1200 grit wetdry. Car is a 2010 Accord and I know it has very soft/thin paint/clear on it.
I was wondering if you could do a video showing how you might remove scratches without repainting the entire panel or having a massive repair area that may be more visible than the scratches. I was hoping to touch it up and sand it flat but it seems like the very think Honda paint has eliminated that option. Thanks alot, sorry for the long question. Also its a black car, which I'd assume makes it even worse to try get it right?
Black can be a tricky colour to work with has the reflection is like a mirror and will show the smallest imperfection, the process i would do is touch in the black with base coat colour with a very fine brush sand the excess away (lightly!) and then touch it in with clearcoat and wet sand and buff
Daz Dee welding is easy, it just takes some practice on scrap bits of metal that's all :-)
mig welding is not hard, you can do it, i would say 15 mins of messing about and practice (from nothing) and you will be good to go.
All it take is time and loads of youtube video's and you are als able to do it.
What about a couple of tips on blending paint like back Quarters and stuff I find it very hard blend any pointers tips or even vids? Good job tho
My truck has more rust then that I saw a video on RUclips and they used sheet metal and plaster and let the plaster dry after the got all the rust off. I am gonna try that for my truck but I need to get another pad a steel round blade to put on my angle grinder. I might have sheet metal at home and I have a soldering iron so I can use that when I put the sheet metal on that covers up the hole once I grind all the rust down.
I'm here for the amazing Irish accent too!!!
@Mad4Motors so you’ve used only finishing filler and that’s eneough when welding in an element ? I’ve bought 3 different fillers as I was hoping to do a job like on a chrisfix video but then decided to weld in a panel. Is it a bad idea to put on fiberglass filler then finishing filler and glaze putty on a welded panel ? Seems overkill
I have a rust hole similar to this in my legacy. How do you prep the backside of the panel to prevent "re-rust"? The spot I have is on the rear fender and not accessible from the back side.
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another friggin awesome vid mate, cheers for such a very informative, step by step approach, that all can understand. 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Great tutorial. Clear and simple explanations. Thanks!
Why didn't you put some primer on the bare metal before body fill? I thought that would help prevent any future rust coming back.
Bloody good job Mate, Not something I could do as I cant weld to save my life even though I own a welder. Although after watching you I might give it another go. 👍
MrCods lots of welders on RUclips can give you pointers.
lo I've tried :)
@Mad4Motors isn't the inner side of the new panel and weld at risk of corrosion since they were left bare?
Yes, if you can reach the back area, treat it with some paint
What about the other side of welded place? Is to good to leave it with no treatment?
Thank you. Informative video. I appreciate it.
Insane results, I love it
You could also use spray paint to trace the shape of the original piece, by putting it on the new piece of metal and spraying over it then remove it and you have the shape
Does it really need all those tacks all the way around? Ive seen other guys set fewer tacks and just fill the rest with bondo.
very nice work, thanks for sharing your tricks and skills
Hey thanks
Brilliant piece of welding
What mig welding wire did you use? Surely low carbon steel filler wire would make it rust more??
How do I make the rust not come back? Lol...getting a wheel well repaired with new metal and people keep saying the rust will come back. Esp at the weld spot in future because water will somehow get in...really bummed about this because I just got the car smh.. can I Plasti dip over the repair to ensure no water ever comes into contact with the weld repair again? Lol. Best options to make sure the wheel well doesn't rust again at the weld spot ? Thanks for any replies. Need some optimism lol. Going to be paying $800 for a wheel well repair ( cut out old metal and weld in new )
do u need to remove the terminals from battery before start welding?
I recently did some touch up working my kids car for him. It turned out good but something happened. The clear coat just peeled off in sheets? I used a base coat ( some brand I got from Canadian tire ) then put 2k clear coat. Can you tell please why the clear coat peeled off a week later when he washed the car? Awesome video by the way 👍
I would guess that it was a problem with the base colour and the clear would not adhere to it because 2k is normally a tough clear and would stick to almost anything
You have make sure the base coat and clear coat are comparable, and you should always wet sand between coats to make sure a good bond is formed.
Elijah Fowler another inncorect comment. You don't sand base coat, it will disturb the metallic pattern making it very obvious. Only sand primers, unless the recoat time window has expired. This time window is differant for all types of materials, that's what material data sheets are for.
James Wilson if your base color and clear were compatible, sounds like it's possible that you didn't get the clear applied before the base color fully cured. Once the base has flashed over (10-15mins) is the best time to lay the clear on.
The base color could have been old and had previously been exposed to open air too long and rhen sealed up again.
Automotive painting can be a tricky chemical process when mix and matching products if you don't use them frequently and are familiar with the do's and dont's of a individual products limitations. Always try to refer to a materials data sheet when steping outside a "complete paint system" to ensure chemical compatibility.
Rockitanski Oh man, you must be a real smart guy to catch all my mistakes. Good job! Can I call you sensei and learn from the master himself?
Measure and cut the patch to required size and use that to scribe the surface for removal. 6 of one vs. half dozen of the other but that's the best way I've seen. I see in the reflection no goggles and no cans as you grind. Use them and life will be less grim.
What a low budget one i can use to do this . whats the least amout of voltage ???
Great detailed video, going to try this soon
Really good vids i appreciate them your a skilled geezer n a good teacher i am gratefull to you pal 👍
Ok so my question is..... what is done about the raw steel on the inside of the panel???
Won't that just start to rust away again????
Do you primer inside/back side of panel?
Do I have to wear these protection glasses when I watch you welding ? I mean at my iPad here
Yes lol
What is the Gauge Metal that you used as the replacement metal?
One question: how do you protect the backside (insiste) welded panel? I am using a mig welder and I grind both sides, but some parts are inacessible. Please advise
Great video but should had used some weld thur primer on the back side panel
Could you use stick welder for this type of welding ?
Nor really. Arc welding is better where there is a greater thickness of metal - on something like this it is pretty much impossible to get a balance between not attaching a steady arc, and not blowing right through and making the hole bigger. The thinner wire and steadier arc that the inert gas fill allows, is needed to do sheet metal welds that are any good. In general the wire/ stick diameter needs to be similar to the thickness being welded.
Thanks for having a go
Hey thanks
Awesome straight to the point👍🏼
Hey; just about to learn to weld. I thought welds had to be continuous? Is that only on structural parts?
As he pointed out, the welds have to be very quick and spaced apart on thin sheet metal, else it would warp or even blow thru'.
Why create additional work by tacking a Earth stud you could have attached the earth clamp basically on any chassis blot, stud etc. Plus always disconnect the battery before doing and electric welding. You should also always treat the welds so they don't start rusting as it will start rusting out in no time. Ok so it's off to scrap.
The ending of this video 😂. Going to the scrap heap.